M276 Mercedes-Benz | Common Problems & Reliability

[@ZX81-c3u]

Thanks for sharing your insight on the Mercedes M276 engine! Your detailed explanation provided valuable clarity on its strengths and quirks-much appreciated!

[@8020Media]

Z - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.

[@laithellabban]

Excellent video. I was hit with the timing chain rattle. Wasn’t cheap to fix, and other repairs were due at the time so I sold it. Loved the car though, and tempted to buy another one- maybe a biturbo variant

[@8020Media]

L - Thanks for sharing your experience. Sorry to hear about that. How many miles did you have on it?

[@exxodus1062]

About to do the timing chain on mine a good link for the one you purchased

[@8020Media]

E - We have an article specifically for this: tuningpro.co/mercedes-m276-timing-chain-rattle/ It should be helpful with your research.

[@Titanic19127]

What mileage did that happen at?

[@milosobrenovic591]

Hallo an diese Community. Ich fahre nun seit 12 Jahren eine Mercedes E-Klasse mit dem 3,5 Liter V6 M276 Motor. Aktuell hat er 170.000 km gelaufen. Der Motor ist für die heutigen Zeit betrachtet, wo immer strengere Abgasnormen gelten, und bei den Herstellern immer mehr gespart werden muss, eigentlich als zuverlässig und robust anzusehen. Vor allem, wenn man bestimmte Punkte beachtet. Möglichst wenig Kurzstrecke fahren, das tut der Maschine nicht wirklich gut. Aber das gilt eigentlich auch für alle anderen Motoren. Hochwertiges Öl 5W 40 verwenden und regelmäßig wechseln. Spätestens alle 12.000 km, besser noch alle 8.000 - 10.000 km. Hochwertigen Kraftstoff tanken. Bei uns in Deutschland haben wir Kraftstoff mit 102 Oktan und speziellen Additiven, die sich reinigend für den Motor auswirken, und eine sehr saubere Verbrennung ermöglichen. Nach Möglichkeit mehrmals im Jahr längere Strecken fahren und ruhig die Leistung abrufen, sofern das natürlich im Rahmen der gesetzlichen Möglichkeiten erlaubt ist. Hier in Deutschland haben wir Autobahnen ohne Geschwindigkeitslimit. In Verbindung mit hochwertigen Kraftstoff und mehrere hunderten Kilometern am Stück kann der Motor ordentlich durchwärmen und Ablagerungen können abgebaut werden, und entstehen erst nicht so leicht. Mein Motor läuft heute noch, wie am ersten Tag. Er hat volle Leistung und ist absolut problemfrei. Einzig habe ich in diesem Jahr bei 160.000 km die Steuerdeckel vorsorglich abdichten lassen, da diese schon kleine anfängliche Undichtigkeiten aufweisen. Ein sehr wichtiges Problem ist Motoröl im Kabelbaum, hervorgerufen durch undichte Nockenwellen-Sensoren. Da muss man dringend handeln, sonst gelangt das Öl ins Steuergerät und kann zu schwerwiegenden Problemen führen. Es ist ein bekanntes Problem bei Mercedes, schon seit mindestens 20 Jahren bis heute. Und es betrifft nicht nur den M276 oder M278, sondern alle Mercedes Benzinmotoren inkl. der AMG Triebwerke. Ich habe eine Werkstatt ausfindig gemacht, die dieses Problem sehr kostengünstig mit Öl-Stop-Kabeln dauerhaft beheben. Freundliche Grüße aus Deutschland. 👍

[@zekeriyacelikbas8715]

Excellent explanation 👍👍👍👍

[@8020Media]

Z - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helps.

[@TheRealAkerele]

My car doesn’t rattle on cold start. It does that for like 1-3 seconds when I try to restart the engine after 1-3 hours of rest. If it rests enough for like 4hrs+, it doesn’t rattle. What could be the issue? It got scanned and brought “ (P06DA00) The Actuation Of The Valve Of The Oil Pump In The Combustion Engine Has An Electrical Fault Or Open Circuit”… Then this also “(P034800) The Position Sensor Of The Intake Camshaft (Cylinder Bank 2) Has A…..” Now I am confused, a mechanic told me it’s my timing chain. I just want to be sure of what the problem is before any repair is done on it. Still drives well though. Thanks!!

[@8020Media]

T - It certainly could be the timing chain with the rattle.

[@AhmedAwawda-cr4bx]

Do you have cel ? Mine do the same code p0346

[@verde629]

This is great! There’s so much info on the B58 engine and the M340i but not enough on the C43 engine. I’m cross shopping between the two. Would you say the B58 is more reliable ?

[@8020Media]

V - We're big on the B48 & B58 engines because of its use in Toyota's.

[@exxodus1062]

Any idea where the updated and redisgned timing chain is called

[@8020Media]

E - We have an article specifically for this: tuningpro.co/mercedes-m276-timing-chain-rattle/ It should be helpful with your research.

[@carlrossi]

It is a flaw in design but the dealership has explained that the 276 upper timing covers are prone to leak at 5-7 years. Although not the engine, another flawed design is the lack of access to the FTPS on ML/GLE models.

[@8020Media]

C - Thanks for taking the time to share this insight!

[@sia5636]

Appreciate your advice,About to seal a deal on a CLS400, 2015 with 10,000 kilometers on the clock been serviced every year, also found another one 60,000 kilometers well maintained 5k cheaper, given the age of the car,which one reliability wise is a better buy?

[@8020Media]

S - We would go for fewer miles, but we can't make that decision for you. There are a lot of different factors that go into it.

[@austingtir]

I prefer the DI version they put in the 2012 to 2014 e300/e350's etc etc. with a tune they make around 330hp loads of bottom end torque, gearing is good they go very well and are very reliable if you keep on top of the oil in electronics harness issues.

[@8020Media]

A - Thanks for sharing this insight.

[@LoveKindSunshine]

You can't separate the startup rattle and cam adjuster failure. They are intrinsically linked, and the redesign did nothing for 2013 and later. The root cause of the startup rattle is oil starvation due to owners leaving synthetic oil in for close to 15k. It can't last that long like advertised, regardless of what the maintenance manual says. The upper timing chain tensioners didn't need a check valve behind them when the car was new, problem arises at 70k miles or later. Owners should run 5w40 not that eco crap. The chains don't stretch easily, are meant to last the life of the engine, and rarely need to be replaced. The chain slap absolutely causes damage to the pins inside the VVTs, and eventually labored idle at startup. Not addressing the issue will ruin the top end of the engine, but it's an easy fix. New VVTs and upper timing chain tensioners, then run quality oil, I use motul, and change it every 3k. It's not a oil leaking from the tensioner problem, it's an oil not getting to the tensioner quick enough problem. Give it 2,000 miles after new parts and running new oil and if you're lucky like me you're startup rattle will just disappear one day. Edit: 12/10/24 just hit 150,000 miles today, 15k since startup rattle. All is well 😊 Furthermore the high pressure fuel pump assumed failure is often just the car needing a new battery, I've dealt with this. Same with not going into gear occasionally, it's a low voltage at startup issue. The HPFP is good for, well over 150k, like the manual says. And carbon buildup is only really going to happen if you're running with a bad PCV valve for too long.

[@lordabhikingfisher8087]

change oil every 5K. I change it every 4K.

[@CORZER0]

Not a single point you made was true. Stick to your day job.

[@LoveKindSunshine]

@@CORZER0 Those who can't address a single presented fact aren't winning any arguments, anywhere. Welcome to the world, newborn.

[@AhmedAwawda-cr4bx]

What if the rattle is because camshaft adjuster

[@LoveKindSunshine]

@AhmedAwawda-cr4bx They just don't produce that sound. The startup rattle sound stems from the upper timing chain tensioner not deploying causing the chain to slap.

[@abrakadabraangelov1829]

Great video.I want to ask you I am interested in buying a CLS 2011-2014 model which engine do you think is more reliable.The 265 hp OM642 or the M276 306hp

[@8020Media]

A - Both engines can be reliable. It really all depends on mileage and prior maintenance.

[@austingtir]

I prefer the m276 306hp. And I think most dont realize how good it is tuned they make 330hp and loads of bottom end torque. But om642 isnt terrible either.

[@8020Media]

A - Thanks for this insight!

[@HK-gb7ze]

There are two common with this engine bore scoring and oil in wiring harness I am surprise he did mention these any one own these engine know what I am talking about

[@8020Media]

H - Thanks for the insight.

[@lordabhikingfisher8087]

that's for v8, You are mixing engine families.

[@Trollollolollol]

Had to dump my 2013 e350 because the cam shaft position sensors leaked oil into the wiring harness which wicked its way up to the ECU. Do you know if this issue was fixed with later variants of this motor?

[@8020Media]

T - It depends. This seems like a rare problem, but for the most part, the newer the engine, the higher the likelihood of updates.

[@carlrossi]

According to MB, you can expect leaking upper timing covers every 5-7 year. Not sure if your issue is the sensor wiring itself or the seal between sensor and cover or even just the cover to head??

[@pfsantos007]

@@carlrossi Resealing the upper timing covers isn't too hard for an experienced DIY'er. I put in the updated timing chain tensioners and check valves to cure a the start-up rattle (still there for a few seconds, cam phasers are ok). Need to pull the intake off, so might as well do plugs also (not required, but easier with the intake off).

[@ZX81-c3u]

This is a well known problem. I believe it was addressed by MB. Check FCPEuro videos

[@funkycarlover]

I own a DE30LA M276 with just 20,000 miles. Any suggestions for preventative maintenance? Oil: Liqui Moly 0W-40, changed @5k mile interval. No additives yet but I've been considering doing Seafoam in oil and gas a hundred miles or so before oil changes to help prevent carbon deposits. Thoughts?

[@8020Media]

Seafoam from time to time won't hurt. Carbon buildup won't cause any major issues, you can probably just do a walnut blast once you get around 80,000 miles. Not really much in the way of preventative maintenance other than sticking to 5k oil changes.

[@astorra4564]

Use the green liqui Molly instead

[@ZX81-c3u]

I would not add any additives. I would go with walnut blasting if necessary.

[@clarencedavis4517]

Just want to throw in Camshaft position sensors no start '15GLK350.

[@8020Media]

C - Thanks for adding this insight.

[@michaelwilson1842]

I must be unlucky I have broken intake valve springs no one has mentioned that issue

[@8020Media]

M - That is new for us to hear. But thanks for sharing your experience!

[@amagicmuggle6960]

Looking at a 2014 GLK 350 has 55k miles. How are these cars? Reliable for a Mercedes??

[@8020Media]

A - All depends on your budget and how well it was maintained prior.

[@lordabhikingfisher8087]

GLK 350 is one of the most reliable motor and cars. They dont have turbo and 3.5L longish stroke, no direct injection, hence no carbon build up. Very reliable with 5K oil change

[@jameswan670]

Cam adjuster, Injector, uneven cam shaft wear is major mechanical defeact. So cant say it is reliable engine.

[@8020Media]

J - Thanks for sharing your insight.

[@100pyatt]

I just hate the direct injection sound it's terrible and needed additional sound dampening for the ticking sound 💩

[@8020Media]

100 - Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@diangelo6686]

@@8020Mediawhat do you think of a e450 2019 with 55k miles 2 years of warranty is that a money pit or decent buy for 35k has all oil changes done on time

[@8020Media]

D - We aren't going to give any input on a purchasing decision, especially when money comes involved. However, make sure to grab maintenance records to ensure it has been maintained properly.