MAGNETIC Table Saw Bowl Jig / How to Make a Wooden Bowl Without a Lathe!

In this video, I'll show you how to make a wooden bowl without a lathe. Making bowls on the table saw sounds impossible but with the correct wood jig and the proper table saw blade, like a wobble wheel adjustable dado blade, you can make some interesting and unique wooden bowls or what some people have named "catch all bowls" and use up a lot of your workshop's scrap and unloved wood to make decorative hall table key storage or even a living room or coffee table conversation piece, there is no limit to what you could create.
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Original Table Saw Bowls Jig: • How to a Make Table Sa...
The WACKY table saw Wobble Blade: • The WACKY table saw Wo...
Wheeled Table Saw Featherboard: • Wheeled Table Saw Feat...
Crosscut Sled for The Table Saw: • Easy Build Crosscut Sl...
Make a Miter Sled Jig for the Table Saw: • Make a Miter Sled Jig ...
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[@KenDBerryMD]

I've never seen a table-saw used this way, fascinating!!

[@billharris71]

Genius! Thanks for the tip.

[@dougg9186]

Nice bowl and great jig and good safety reminder, always to be stay safe. I like the video's you do where you make something with tip you give. Thanks Collin

[@cherylhuckaby2927]

When I make the holes for the mag switches I marked the wood and used my scroll saw to cut them.

[@joebrown1382]

First time I've seen this procedure. Very cool idea & makes nice little bowls.

[@nagamendo5655]

Great idea! The size of the bowl is - of course - limited to the size of the saw blade. But that´s ok. I think the bowls would even look better, if the bottom 2/3 (or so) of the sides are cut with an angle (15 to 30 degrees, maybe?), so they are narrower at the bottom. This should make them look less bulky. I guess, the savest way to cut the angles would be before using the jig. On the other hand this might be complicated when making an 8-sided bowl. So with an 8-sided bowl I would cut the sides AFTER I used the jig. But I would have a second (square) block of wood behind the bowl for the cut which should keep the bowl from turning whilst cutting. What do you think? Great video. Thx 4 sharing. Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭

[@peethreeorion]

Actually, although the depth of the bowl is limited to the maximum height of your sawblade, the size of the bowl needn't be. After you've reached the maximum depth, moving the jig backwards would bring more of the inner slope of the bowl into contact with the blade. Back the blade down a quarter or half turn, move the jig until there's contact again, then turn on the saw and raise the blade back up into the wood. Spin the bowl, and repeat as desired. Since the high point of your blade is now moving out from the exact center, you'll end up with a flat area at the bottom of the bowl, but that shouldn't be a problem.

[@peethreeorion]

Good point about not trying to trim these against the fence, but how about on a miter sled?

[@kenshores9900]

Enjoy your videos Colin.

[@MCsCreations]

Pretty interesting jig, Colin! 😃 Thanks a lot for all the tips!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@changkeehong259]

Good job Thanks..

[@trurex007lee7]

Multiple tips here, thanks!

[@bjkehoe6988]

Man, I really need to upgrade my contractor table saw with an aluminum table to something with a cast iron table, so I can make some of these cool magnetic jigs.

[@OtterBeSwimming]

Great idea, easy to do and I think quite safe. The magnetic clamps are very nice and a great idea. Would you consider taking the corners off with a chop saw (miter saw) a safe alternative?

[@MrUSNMasterChief]

Great Idea!! Thanks

[@markduggan3451]

Looks great.

[@dpmeyer4867]

cool

[@classic287]

That's amazing 👍😊

[@Sillyturner]

I have never seen or used air nails. Do they have good holding power. I have however put in a a lot of steel nails with my air nailer.

[@cherylhuckaby2927]

How can you gauge how deep you can go? How do you gauge how large your original piece of wood needs to be?

[@woodlandburl6648]

Nice!

[@wolfman75]

👍👍😎😎😃😃

[@mavenfeliciano1710]

I wonder how double-sided tape would hold so not to have holes or marks in the finished piece. Unless the outer portions are being cut off, but depending on the size the hold down that attaches would need to be bigger.

[@JimBeshears]

Colin would you like to come on our livestreamed maker interview show? We have it on every Saturday night.

[@thesweetone]

love the video, pretty neat ... but i prefer the hand made lathe i made out of a drill press motor before i bought a little unit for bowls, safer too.

[@michelecrown2426]

I assume if you don’t have a wobble blade you can still do it but it would take more passes. Also when cutting off the edges after if the blade was set at an angle would you end up with a nice tapered bowl or would the intersections of the segments be off? Thanks for this interesting jig and process.

[@robertbamford8266]

I was actually thinking that the wobble blade might make centering the pin more difficult.

[@mavenfeliciano1710]

He used a regular blade to cut the edges after “turning” the bowl. Depending on the layout lines and the size of the bowl, and the thickness of the piece needs to factored in to know whether it would be tapered or the intersections would cross. Different angles will also give different results. He uses a guide jig to cut it straight. Make sure the jig covers the highest point of the blade when angled as it will the the most protruding part. I think. Run it over first several times with the machine off to envision it in actuality (I’m doing this in my head). Safety first. If the angle is too steep I see it being a safety hazard after cutting the 2nd or 3rd side as the bottom is being removed, thus losing stability of the piece being too small and/or narrow. Perhaps a hold-down jig on the miter saw is a better option, or some other tool.

[@mavenfeliciano1710]

@@robertbamford8266 you could use a regular blade to set it, lift the arm of the jig while keeping it locked in position, then change to the wobble blade if you have one.

[@robboelectronicaus]

I am assuming you don't nessarilly need a wobble blade ?

[@mikesimmons7539]

What width did you set the wobble blade on & the thickness of the bowl material , please ?

[@mavenfeliciano1710]

What do you mean by width? He centered the piece in the middle of the blade and the arbor. The arbor is the bolt piece you screw/bolt the blade into the saw. The arbor is fixed, thus is the blade’s position.

[@mikesimmons7539]

You can set the blade to cut different width of slots ie; 3/4 , 1/2 etc. I didn't know if you set the wobble on 0 or a certain width .Thanks

[@rayheinrich1504]

how would you do the bowl if you did not have a woble blade?

[@mavenfeliciano1710]

Anything that rotates/pivots at a fixed point creates a circle. And all regular saw blades are circular, with half of the blade exposed at full height (on a table saw). The top has less surface than the portion by the saws throat plate, which is the widest. Hence, the patter of the blade will be the reverse (negative) on the piece. In simpler terms, as you turn and raise a regular spinning blade it creates a bigger and bigger circular hole, where the top of the blade creates a shallower circular cut on the top of the piece where it is cut (which is upside down when cutting so actually the bottom). With the blade low, it will cut a smaller bowl (after the piece is rotated a complete 360°) than when the blade is higher, which would create a larger bowl cut. You start low because it is too much material to cut all at once, so you cut low and make a complete spin plus a little extra for and missed spots (making sure the cut is clean all around the circle), then raise a little bit at a time repeating the process. This is for safety because removing to much material at once, *ESPECIALLY* while rotating it will definitely cause a kickback, at the very LEAST. Make sure either your piece is higher than the full height of your blade OR you do not cut complete the rough the piece. You can check your progress by shutting off the saw after a complete rotation and lifting the arm out of the way (without moving the jigs position) to see how far you have cut into the piece. If you move the position of the jig, it won’t (99%) line back to where you were cutting originally. Lifting the arm out of the way doesn’t change your position.

[@rama3njoy]

i would using round tip my chainsaw

[@osgeld]

playing devils advocate here, what would happen if you rotated the piece counter clockwise

[@mavenfeliciano1710]

Same result. The cut of the bowl is based on a full 360° rotation, so the feed direction doesn’t make a difference in this case. If you wanted to make half a bowl, the only difference it would make is whether it would be on the left or right, but it’s not possible to make half a bowl with this jig and technique because the blade has a front and back on the table. As it spins, both sides (front and back) are being cut simultaneously. (Or at least to us, because the speed of the blade is so rapid. Technically, the part that touches the blade first is where the cut starts, then the front as the blade moves forward. The back doesn’t because the circular shape of the blade descends from the top. but this information is more for the mechanically inclined.)