👷‍♂️Make a better DC Power supply: Modification to Wanptek DPS3010U👷‍♂️

[@Marc_Miller]

Ha, I have to tell you about my similar yet different duck up. After watching your video I removed the cover and very carefully picked my switch location, specifically offset to the left so as to Not interfere with that interior top support bracing bar. Drilled hole, mounted switch, modified wires and connected them. All looking great. And then I went to put the screws back in to secure the outer cover and discovered... the cover is NOT symmetrical front to back. Doh! Cover needs to be rotated 180 degrees for screw holes to line up! And thus I will now be drilling a new hole and trying this again, lol. Suggestion for anyone making this mod, put some blue tape on the top of your cover about where the switch will go BEFORE removing the cover to make sure you not only get it offset from center as needed, BUT ALSO at the correct end of the cover. Thank you for your video and showing how to do this mod. Regardless of my mistake, this is going to be a very useful little power supply now. :)

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hi Marc, Lol that is funny.... I mean I felt the same way. Thanks for the comment. Thx, brocktech

[@rdrhouse]

I have a 60v 5A version in the post to me, and my thoughts were to remove the primary slide voltage switch on the rear of the case, and replace it with a normal slide switch that match the fixing points, being carefull to either isolate the switch inside the case or remove it completely. Then rewire the mains feed through this new slide switch and use the front on/off for dc output control.

[@SharvilSawargaonkar]

one suggestion make longer videos this one should have been atleast 1:30 hours long

[@MasterDTS]

Hello friend, I looked at that modification and was a little puzzled by your decision. After all, it was possible to install a powerful field-effect transistor and control it by applying voltage to its gate with a very small switch button, rather than installing such a bulky switch on top of the case. This way we will not lose functionality and the appearance of the device will remain virtually unchanged. This solution has been used in all branded power supplies of RD models for many years.

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hi DTS, Great advice. That is something to keep in mind for the future. Personally I didn't care about the appearance... It is a cheap bench PS that I use around the house or work bench.... And the mod was quick and simple.

[@philipsalvador8269]

Wonder if you can post the specs and diagram for the field effect xsistor..

[@TechHEN]

how to fix 200v 470uf over hating?

[@ddistrbd1]

HI, I have the exact power supply and I'm a total newbie, that is a good mod, I suppose it gives the user more control of the outputs but isn't it just as safe to turn voltage and amp knobs all the way down to zero before turning the unit on ? do all the more professional power supplies come with a separate on/off switch?

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hi D, yes it is safe that way. However, having an output switch adds some extra layer of safety. I have in the past forgot to lower to zero and fried some components in a circuit I was building. Yes, most higher end (and some lower end ) power supplies come with an output switch. My guess it was to save money, and have a $50-60 price point, even though the switch at retail is $3 or so, and they would buy in bulk for much less.

[@clems6989]

Technically yes, But there are many times when you don't want to have to reset the controls, Maybe you just need to move the leads to a different point, or maybe you just want to check something quick without the voltage applied. The output on/off is one of those things that you don't know you missed it, until you have it...

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

100% agree Clem. I was using this PS for a few months and every time I would think I need to look into an output switch. I also move the leads around a lot and hated the process, zero, then move, then back to same voltage.

[@orange11squares]

maybe you should have started with what are you trying to do...... "that modification" does not say much....

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Thanks for the input.

[@byronlopez8776]

Hola. Muy buena observación mi otra muy buena fuente pero sólo de 6A tiene ese botón, sólo una sugerencia, un humilde aporte 😊 nunca dejó nada encendido de noche o feriados en el taller. Por que no dejar directo la línea de encendido de la fuente, se apaga con la regleta, y usamos el botón de apagado para hacer esa función de suspendido 😊 es para no tener que taladrar y se apaga con la regleta

[@PlanetRuncorn]

Good PSU, but here in the UK we would typically switch the Live Connection, and have a fuse in the Live Lead, On this One u have, and my version its in the Neutral , Yes I understand AC Laws , but its down to safety and should there be a fault. i rewired mine, and put a fuse inline ..

[@jeanyluisa8483]

I think you missunderstood what he is doing. He put the switch into the DC side (the Low voltage circuit ). On this side he can regulate the current and also is shortcircuit protected. So a Fuse wouldnt make much sense. The idea is to have a switch for disconnecting the load, e.g. when adjusting the voltage and current. Thats quite handy and many newer bench powersupplies already have a switch for that.

[@PT-7000]

Isn't there a handy hole in the back behind the sticker? Just got mine, it has a hole but no sticker! Also I drooled over the new EPS1203 - it has on/off and 3 program buttons but too many more $$ right now. I do like the DPS3010U. Cheers PS I just unplug the banana lead for no juice.

[@WanptekOfficialStore]

If you need EPS1203H, please contact me. I am Wanptek brand manufacturer

[@johnshaw359]

Could you swap the switches around?

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hi John, There is nothing to stop you from swapping the switches... But, the push button switch (only button before mod) does not have a rating that I can see. 10 Amps is a lot of current without knowing the rating on that switch. The push button which is connect to the AC input, cabling and switches can be smaller for AC vs DC do to "one" way current in DC and alternating / or "two" way current in AC.

[@johnshaw359]

@@brocktech-ql1wr Yeah, it might be a 5A a.c rated type for 110v mains countries. Understood.

[@MostlyPosative-nj5ex]

I’m not laughing about the extra hole. I’ve done that before. It happens and then you learn to become more attentive because of it.

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Thanks for the comment. I laughed because I originally marked the correct place with tape then my kid took it off and I didn't check again.... rookie mistake

[@jeanmichel9207]

You need another hole anyway for a light to show you that the output voltage is enabled you may need a bipolar switch because your output is variable

[@ddistrbd1]

Hi again, I thought my Wanptek dps3010u power supply was identical to yours but they are not, on mine, if you want to see or adjust the amperage setting you must first connect the + / - leads together , then adjust the amp by turning the coarse/fine (AMP) dials . now that I have done the mod, I still need to to turn the new toggle switch to on, connect the ends of the positive/negative leads together, then set the amperage. in other words, the newly added toggle switch when it's in OFF position only allows me to see the voltage, ( the amperage shows zero no matter what the amp actual setting is). I guess my power supply is one of the older models, but I am still glad I did the mod.

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hi D, that's great you did the mod. On my unit before mod, as soon as I turned on the power my multi-meter would read whatever the last amperage setting was last Example, I run a lot of circuits at .300 AMPs so use this number all the time, a few days before the mod, I was charging a battery at 2 amps.. I hooked up my low amp circuit for more testing and forgot I had the amp set to 2 amps and blow the fuse I had in line. I was lucky as the circuit is a work related prototype and I would have had to rebuild it. You are correct on the setting of amperage, it should be no load , meaning no circuit just pos to neg, but if you have an amp-meter or dmm try to put inline and leave the amps set to say 2 amps and see if when you push the power button it jumps to 2 amps (from the last time), my unit remembers voltage and amperage. Thanks, Brocktech

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Here is a video what how the ouput would use the last value from previous setting and potentially damage your circuit or equipment. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWLCo4enrZVkbbM

[@WanptekOfficialStore]

Yes, this power supply has been upgraded and is one of my favorite power supplies

[@NeverGiveUpYo]

does it have any protections?

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hi Rick Astey (I know I am being a little forward by using your "real name"). The PS has OCP or over current protection (two modes). 1st is C.c. which is continuous current meaning it will try to give as much current as it can before it would be too much and cause shutdown. 2nd mode is OCP. tries to give the requested current, but if higher than "allowable" around 10 AMPs it will shutdown until condition clears. I have diesel pump that I tested the feature on and each works as it should. The link below is a basic review where I talk a bit about the OCP settings. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2jCcn93iNKqoZo

[@NeverGiveUpYo]

@@brocktech-ql1wr Haha, you made my day. Thanks for that info though.

[@BrainHurricanes]

@@brocktech-ql1wr I'm not sure if you know how constant current works by your description "...meaning it will try to give as much current as it can before it would be too much and cause shutdown". Basically you set the CC to the maximum current you need. For example 20mA. So even if the connected load asks for more, it can't get more than 20mA.

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hey teacher, thanks for the catch. You are correct in your example. In c.c. mode for short circuit, it would stop "giving" current at the set ampere. In ocp mode it shutdown if current draw is above the set limit.... I should have worded it differently and been more clear.

[@eric_bo]

Hey, thanks for the vid. I've got the very same power supply. Your mod seems like the right thing to do. I think I might try that as well. Would you mind sharing the switch specs? I'm a newbie and don't want to get the wrong stuff :p

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hi Eric, I used this switch linked here, but you are looking for DC voltage of 30 or higher and 10 plus amps DC... or something like the one I shared (250 VAC and 15 Amps). I purchased twin pack because I had a use for the 2nd unit. FYI the link is not an affiliate link, just the one I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C4LBMPY1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Brocktech

[@austinwebdev]

This title is misleading. I thought you were going to modify the circuit on the main board. I already knew how to install a switch.

[@brocktech-ql1wr]

Hi Austin, thanks for the input... I think the title is appropriate, I did modify the unit.... never did I state I was going to mod the PCB. That's great that you knew the mod / add switch but others may not have. The only circuit mods that would make sense to me are better caps / maybe changes to the lay to lower the noise in the output.... but this is not a mod worth the effort. Thanks, Brocktech

[@austinwebdev]

@@brocktech-ql1wr thank you