Make a plane blade for $2? (Maybe)

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/ rexkrueger
Can you make a plane iron yourself? Can you do it cheap? I don't know, but I'm gonna give it a try. Follow along as I attempt to make a good plane iron out of a lawn-edger blade. Whether it works or not, it's a good learning experience and we'll learn a bit about metallurgy in the process.
If you'd like to try your own experiments, you can the same Echo trimmer blades here: amzn.to/2HdOvzS
You can also get generic, hardened blades (that look suspiciously like the Echo ones). amzn.to/2GcZJ6v
If you'd rather just spend the money, here's Ron Hock's Krenov-style wooden plane kit: amzn.to/2BWyiiX
Forging and hardening tips courtesy of Green Beetle, who has an excellent channel. Go watch: / greenbeetlegear
Follow me on instagram: @rexkrueger

[@Gadsdentreadlightly]

You still gotta harden it. The spark test kinda sorta tells you if it's high carbon. They make the edger blades out of high carbon steel so it's tougher (like lawn mower blades) but neither are hardened because the first time you hit a rock they'd chip or explode which is bad for business. In metallurgy you always test to see if it will harden.

[@woodworkingandepoxy643]

Little late but theoretically I could use either of those blades to make plane irons and just harden and heat treat it myself right?

[@christopherjones7191]

Additionally they are softer than a file, but harder than mild so you can resharpen them by filing them. Same with many axe heads and scissors.

[@Mars-zgblbl]

About 22 years ago, Steve Knight used to make wooden planes with cryo treated irons. I have a couple. That steel is tough as heck.

[@ferben2114]

You make a huge difference from other American KZbinrs. You see, down in Argentina, and I guess in many other South American countries, it's a bit hard to get all the hardware which can be found in most American home workshops (based on what I normally watch), but you... You really adapt your channel to the reality of these countries. So, thanks a bunch! You're doing a great work! Thanks again!!!

[@Bradkurily]

There is a beautiful highlight on your head in this video. Like a halo over your head. You are too good for us all. Love your channel Rex never change.

[@unglaubiger5645]

I can already tell this is most probably some kind of spring steel, so it is hardened, but not hard enough for a plane iron, because spring steel has only 0,5-0,8% carbon. 0,8% could work for a plane iron, but it`s a bit on the low side. Tempering is also important. It makes the steel softer but mote flexible. If you just harden the steel, the edge will chip. If you want a blade, you have to temper it, so you have to heat it up to 200-300°C, depending on what you want to do with it. If you temper it higher, ou get a very springy but soft steel. Ideal for the edger, but too soft for a plane iron. I made some plane irons out of lage bearings. That´s a really good stell for woodworking tools, but bearings are typically round, so you need a forge and an anvil. An alternative is to order tool steel. I bought a piece of 1.2510 Steel, 4,2mm thick, 500mm long and 200mm wide for under 40€. I can make a lot of plane irons out of that. i just have to cut it, harden, temper grind and sharpen.

[@robthompson8285]

I would imagine they don't harden those edging blades too much because a lot of times they come in contact with the sidewalk and would immediately explode if they were anything above a high hrc. Love your channel btw. I'm not much of a woodworker but you make the material fun and interesting.

[@MugRuith]

Well, at least we finally found out how you shave your head. Love your videos.

[@EitriBrokkr]

Stanley jack plane

[@frogsoda]

Compass plane.

[@MrGreenMakesStuff]

This channel is a real gem. Rex, you have outstanding presentation skills yet humble approach to woodworking - and lately that is a rare find on KZbin. I live overseas where old tools are hard (or pricey) to come by, so I strongly relate to your views on plane making, shop made tools, flea market finds and other "budget friendly" projects. I read that old lawnmower blades or cleavers are a good source for high carbon steel. Also, I guess another good test may be to actually try and harden a small piece of the steel with a portable torch+quench (if you can afford to cut a piece off). I watched most of your vids, loved them and I want you to make more! you've got yourself a new patron :)

[@RexKrueger]

Hey! Welcome aboard! I've got a ton of content just for patrons. Have a look around and tell me what YOU want to see more of. I'm always responsive to my patrons.

[@sethmiller1357]

Old lawnmower blades are an excellent source. They can often be gotten for free from a lawnmower repair shop.

[@ColonelSandersLite]

Mower blades are not hardened. They are just plain old mild steel. This is they deform instead of turning into shrapnel when you accidentally hit a rock. People routinely sharpen mower blades with just regular files.

[@santiagocruz2754]

I’m amazed at the practical knowledge Rex gives in his videos. Just by watching his videos on beginning sand paper methods on how to sharpen a plane iron i was encouraged to try it on a 5 dollar plane I bought at a pawn shop and it’s working. Thanks Rex for sharing your experience with would be hobbyist.

[@robertbeverly1508]

Love the new direction. That's what I need as a home-gamer with more time than money.

[@cotswoldlad9413]

The Echo blade (the first link) is now $14.25 for ONE blade (Jan 6, 2020)

[@MikkosFree]

Now you have my attention, and my subscription. Old tools are simply difficult to obtain where I am from, simply because the market here is flooded with cheap knockoffs, that old tools are just that: old cheap knockoffs. I also enjoy your straight forward and informative way of speaking. This channel maybe young, but I see a great future in store for it.

[@abettermousetrap]

I just discovered your channel. Top drawer all teh way. Well spoken and presented. Kudos

[@matthewcarpenter4716]

Rex thank you so much for posting your content. I am new to woodworking and I am also a full-time student. Needless to say, money is not readilly available to my family and me. I love that you offer ideas from a limited financial concern. My pride and joy right now is an old ShopSmith Mark V that my wife found for $300 I am still learning what I can do with it. Per your suggestion, ​I began searching local flea markets last weekend. I just thought I would let you know that your videos are valuable to me.

[@RexKrueger]

Matthew, your comments mean the world to me. My channel is aimed at people just like you. I started out while I was in grad school at a tiny bench with just a couple of tools and remember how much ingenuity it took to get anything done. Keep working and let me know what kind of content you want to see!

[@woodshopsquared3183]

A crude test for hardened steel is to see if it rings like a bell. Same test used to see if a firearm frame has lost its temper after a fire. Doesn't tell you how hard it is but it can tell you if it is soft.

[@DarrellPoe]

More awesome content! First thing I thought of was a lawnmower blade - wonder how many you could get out of one of them...

[@RonSheely]

Thank you Rex. Excellent work.

[@alexandremenard8035]

Hi Rex Krueger, I have the best solution for the blade. You can use a car seat belt latch. It is hardened steel and could be pretty cheap in any seize. That's the best idea for the blade. Go to a scrap yard or use your middle seat belt latch :P

[@FrancisR420]

I love how you included that wiff with the hammer it was like your second to last blow before you cut it. you could have edited it out but I kind of respect that you didn't

[@-Honeybee]

WIFF This man is an example to all of us.

[@massonmusic4817]

Maui Randall )

[@simonecamplani2430]

very good format idea

[@tarbucktransom]

This is absolutely perfect for the kinds of things I do, thanks for this. Your channel will go far with tips like these.

[@RexKrueger]

My pleasure. Stay tuned for my next video where I make a MUCH better iron. Thanks for watching!

[@tarbucktransom]

Subscribed. I don't trust youtube to bring me back to your channel on its own.

[@thomaslewis9526]

I just discovered this channel a week ago, and I really enjoy your restless curiosity. Also, you usually ask the question, ' there must be a cheaper way to do this'. This is a can-do, not afraid to make mistakes, way of living, that was a lot more common several generations ago. Thanks! About this blade idea, I love it because you are asking, is there an easier way to access these tools. It isn't clear to me if you tried hardening the blade, as some suggested. But you did move on with a different idea in the following videos. I had an idea about these blades as they are. I think they might make a heavy card scraper. The steel is clearly at least medium carbon and fairly hard. If you draw-file the edge square and hammer lightly and evenly to create a burr, then you have a scraper. A normal card scraper would be made with medium/high carbon steel, draw filed, and burnished to create the burr. (The shank of that 2in chisel you cut the blade off of might make a good burnisher, it already has a handle.) A scraper needs to be hard to form a cutting burr, but soft enough that you can deform the metal to create the burr. I'm definitely getting some of those blades, and I'll get back with a comment if I find anything useful. Thanks for the ideas!

[@cameronflack2254]

I just subscribed (this morning while half asleep lol) but i like the video. I love your presentation of information. I appreciate that you left an affiliate link for both the name brand and the generic. And i am really excited to watch you make a plane to fit the iron you made.

[@RexKrueger]

That's great! The next video is on the way, so stay tuned!

[@mickeypoppi]

Rex, I discovered used table saw blades often make a good irons. At the Habitat ReStore i find them for $2 - $5 i can get several irons from 1 blade. They usually "Sing" with a file and hard to scratch. Test them before you buy. I now have a scratch plane, scraper, Rebbit, and a few Spokeshaves from them and so far seem to be holding the edge. Love your videos. Keep them coming.

[@nostgeoffhi-fi]

Can table saw blades be cut with hand tools like a handsaw with a high tpi? For cutting metal? Or would I need a power tool/angle grinder? If not, I might try annealing the table saw blades in my kiln to soften the steel, cut with a handsaw, then shape, re-harden, temper, and hone it. I don’t like power tools that spin blades...it’s why I use hand tools. Thanks for the reply!

[@mickeypoppi]

@@nostgeoffhi-fi i used a Dremel tool & grinder wheel although an angle grinder works better

[@jllaine]

spark test - look for the sparks to end with little chrysanthemum fireworks shaped explosions. iron just throws sparks, mild steel you may see a couple, but with hardenable high carbon steel most sparks explode, which is the carbon inside each crystal matrix oxydizing. your edger blade sparks looked good, likely needs to be quench hardened and tempered.

[@hananokuni2580]

I've made some plane irons from old motorized edger blades. After initial shaping with a file or grinding wheel I heat them to orange-hot with a propane weed burner and while I do get a pretty hard steel with water quench, a file can still bite into it, even if with difficulty. Carburizing the steel makes it hard enough that not only will a file not bite into it, but of course a sharp edge will hold much longer. Case hardening is a good way to do this and one practical method for the home craftsman can be found on the YT channel about the reconstruction of the Antikythera, called _Clickspring_ . The method described therein consists of making a charcoal putty made of 6 parts charcoal powder, 4 parts table salt, and 3 parts flour. The putty is applied all over the part to be carburized, until it is completely covered, then left to dry until very hard, then encased in s tube of modeling clay (to provide an airtight case), after which it is put in a hot furnace for at least 20 minutes.

[@michaelsaxman]

Nice, I was looking for a how to for testing steel. I found the cutting edge from an old snow plow - big long piece, already beveled.

[@scottadams2624]

Awesome video!

[@robinmarwick1982]

Thanks Rex great video.

[@TheWoodYogi]

Thank you Rex :) This is great info for beginners and very nicely done. I'm always on the lookout for hardened steel for projects. Looking forward to the plane build video :) ॐ

[@RexKrueger]

Glad you liked it! The plane build vid is in the works right now, and I think it's going to be a good one.

[@williamthrasher8540]

You can get a piece of O1 tool steel 3/16" x 2" x 18" from McMaster-Carr (product no. 9516K68), but you will have to heat treat it. O1 steel is one of the easier tool steels to heat treat.

[@michaelenelmar]

I was thinking exactly the same. I like knife making videos and that's what they recommend. About more steel options, check Walter Sorrells channel, he has a good video on that topic. O1 can be heat treated with any kind of oil and get tempered in the kitchen ofen. There are tons of videos about this topic. Thanks for your work Rex.

[@allenbrown8899]

Thank you for another great video.

[@RexKrueger]

My pleasure. Thanks for watching!

[@Stashu413]

It’s wild to hear that people can’t find old tools I literally live in the town where Miller’s Falls tools were made, ironically its not in Miller’s falls lol

[@robertwear640]

Have you considered using an old leaf spring from a truck? Junk yards usually have them.

[@Boris25428]

Based on your file test the edger blade is much softer than the Stanley blade. They probably have tempered the edger blade much more than the Stanley blade to increase the toughness of the steel. They don't want the edger blade shatter when they hit a rock while using it. Besides the file skating test should only be done on hardened steel before tempering. What might have to be done is that you re harden the blade and temper it a bit in the kitchen oven to soften to your liking. I would heat the blade with a torch until it looses it's magnetism and then dunk it in oil. Then test with the file again and you should skate across it. Then put it in the oven at 400 F for an hour or two to bring down the hardness a bit. If you don't temper it will be pretty brittle.

[@RexKrueger]

Funny that you should mention that! I did heat a test sample to non-mag just yesterday and quenched in oil. Didn't harden at all. I was hoping to re-harden and then just temper it back a little, just as you suggest. But, this could be a water-hardening steel, so I'll repeat the test today, but with water as the quench. My suspicion right now is that I'm dealing with a medium-carbon steel that's not going to fully harden no matter what I do. But that's okay; I've got backup plans. Either way, thanks for watching and taking the time to leave such a detailed comment!

[@Boris25428]

Yeah most likely it is too low of a carbon steel. You can always get a piece of 1075/1080/5160 or 1095 for not much money. Admiral steel for example have 1/4" x 2" x 60" bar of 1075/1080 for about $29 that would make many blades and you know you have an easy to harden steel.

[@Gantzz321]

its only $29, but if you only need 10" (for 2) seems like to much

[@RexKrueger]

I did just get a 12-inch bar of 1095 off ebay for $20. I think I'm going to make 3-4 irons out of it. At that price, the math works.

[@Boris25428]

That should work just fine 😀

[@TheWingnut58]

Worn out lawn mower/edger blades can be found at your local lawn mower shop, usually for free, and make great plane irons. Unlike chisels and files that are relatively stationary in use, mower and edger blades spin at pretty high speeds and are in near constant danger of hitting hard objects.....that's why they drawn to a softer temper, to reduce the chances of shattering and becoming shrapnel....

[@IronGordon]

Killer video, super informative. I'm learning quite a bit from your stuff.

[@RexKrueger]

I feel the same way when I watch your stuff. I suck at 2d art, but you make some of this graphics stuff look approachable.

[@IronGordon]

Rex Krueger thanks dude👊

[@zidnyknight3611]

thank you Rex

[@victor-antonioali378]

You had me at "We're just going to have to make them"

[@markbaker9459]

Aloha Rex , Here in Hawaii , it isn't that old tools don't exist but the termites ate the wooden parts and when you find them , the iron parts are very rusty from the salt air of these islands . So , when I find old gems , I carefully measure what remains before even trying to take them apart , than at least I have the measurements to remake the lost body of the tool . For the 'rehabbed' tool .I'll use the same or better wood and be sure its not going to be left for a meal to termites by telling its 'new' owner of disuse= a meal for Hawaii's termites .

[@RexKrueger]

That sounds like a great way to go! I didn't know termites were such a problem over there.

[@jerryroush5710]

Good information

[@agylub]

Old car leaf springs are the best value source for plane blades.

[@douglaspierce7031]

The edger blade is probably in the mid to high 30's Rockwell C. It's hardened enough to minimize wear but not so hard it shatter under use

[@TomsLife9]

is it also possible that only the edges are hardened but the rest is left softer for the same reasons you mentioned?

[@manisteeresearcharchives606]

probably good for a jointer plane

[@maxximumb]

You can buy high carbon steel on ebay or online metal suppliers. Also a local engineering / fabrication workshop might sell you an offcut for the same price they'd sell it to the recyclers.

[@eightysevenmoore]

Excellent vid. Sub-ed :). Steel hardening is like black magic to me!

[@RexKrueger]

Thanks very much! I have a whole video on hardening 1095, which is a cheap and for forgiving steel to work with. Anyone can do this.

[@Tehcarp]

Echo makes good tools. They make a copy of the felco secatur (spelling) and the blades last a long time.

[@henrysscrollsawworks6367]

i have a lot of rough cut oak al most 1and7/8 inch thick and about 8 to 10 inch wide.

[@henrysscrollsawworks6367]

if you saw my second q. is oak 1and 7/8 thick 8to 10 inches wide good enough to use if plane it ?and thanks for answering my question so quickly ,thank you very very much

[@j.d.1488]

01 stock. Then temper. Sellers made one (web site article) for his Record plough. Notches and all. Good article

[@Musicmaddnes]

I lucked out and found an antique store around her that the owner likes me. I sells me tools super cheap. Like a black king rasp for $1, a ps&w wrench for $4.

[@thiggy1249]

How suitable would old retired lawnmower blades be for a plane iron?

[@Bashirbros]

so it's been a few years. how have the homemade plane blades held up? is it worth going down this road? you haven't really mentioned them since this video which leads me to believe you've given up on them

[@miketownsend6108]

awesome

[@brunsy1990]

You can also case harden by dropping red hot steel into powdered carbon, easiest is some powdered charcoal, I've mixed powdered charcoal in with used motor oil for quenching a knife blade before... just happy I had the shape where I wanted... the surface became so hard it was nigh impossible to shape with a belt grinder and files were a lost cause.

[@thomaslewis9526]

You've given me a great idea to try hardening steel. From time to time I burn off branches that accumulate from the trees in my yard in a habachi. So I have a nice hot bed of coals for a couple of hours. If I want to keep some charcoal, I grab it with some stainless steel tongs, and drop it into a bucket of water. Now the habachi (mini- barbeque) is about 6in by 12in, with a grate and little vent in the middle. If I pack in powdered charcoal at one end, cover the beveled end of the steel with a thick paste of powdered charcoal and used motor oil, and let it just sit there for a couple of hours in the bottom of the bed of coals while I do my occasional yard maintenance burn, I bet I could get some of that carbon into the steel. If it works, I'll report on it. I love the used motor oil idea. I always have part of a jug sitting around, between oil changes. I only take it in to recycle when I have a full jug. This method will only cost a few minutes of time to crush some charcoal, so I can't wait to give it a try.

[@censusgary]

Alloys are not fused on the molecular level. That’s compunds (like iron oxide or calcium carbonate). Alloys have different elements enlaced on the structural (crystalline, more or less) level. Steel is not a compound, it’s an alloy.

[@zippy3711]

Re-harden the edger blade when done shaping. Looks soft.

[@skilletborne]

This is a brilliant video, but I would like to point out that buying carbon steel should be even cheaper than that if you can find a steel yard or even buy scraps online The nicest tool steels I can get from an admittedly expensive site are still only 6 euros per kilo, and many are closer to 2 to 4 euros per kilo - that's like 30 cents a plane iron.

[@jameswalker3416]

so this has nothing to do with the plane but do u have a video on your tool wall specifically your screw driver holder

[@alanmullock381]

👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@Gantzz321]

ideally my self I would love to see you make 2 planes, Western style an Japanese style.

[@RexKrueger]

Funny that you should mention that. My plane making system is flexible enough that I was thinking of doing an eastern plane in the future. I need to study them more so that I really understand their function, not just make something that looks like a Japanese plane.

[@souIsynapse]

Rex: We gotta go back to basics The humble card scraper: 🧍am I a joke to you, Rex?

[@davidbuckmaster7747]

Heat it to harden it, then temper it blue at the edge.

[@uktony1525]

Sent over by Keith Brown and now subscribed.

[@RexKrueger]

I guess I need to figure out who Keith Brown is. Thanks for watching.

[@uktony1525]

Keith is Rag'n'Bone Brown on KZbin. He recommended your channel in his latest blog as one that he enjoys.

[@philbranscum8922]

Mr. K took your advice but blade is not hard enough. So I started a wood fire in my pit and stuck a hair blower in in till it was bright orange, quenched it in oil and it shaves 3/4 oak in micron thickness (well no not really but super thin) try it it works awesome

[@RexKrueger]

phil Branscum That's great! I'm really glad you had such good luck!

[@THX..1138]

If you need a wider blade you could cut the edger blade to the width you need then weld it to a piece of mild steel. As long as you take care not to overheat the part of the steel that will be the cutting edge it won't lose it's hardness.

[@RexKrueger]

I completely agree, but those craftspeople who own welders probably don't need $2 blades. The idea here was a blade that was cheap and off-the-shelf. Admittedly, it didn't go so great.

[@zekimertcan9218]

Hello everyone. Old car leaf springs worth to try

[@farmerrog3679]

the piece you bought is hardenable metal not hardened. You have to heat and quench it .

[@joshwillis1726]

You could also go online to a place like online metals and buy a piece of tool steel. Then you know exactly what the steel is. Grind, hone, whatever. McMaster is also a great place. Maybe not $2 but you get exactly what you pay for.

[@RexKrueger]

No doubt, and things will certainly progress in that direction. The point of this video is to experiment. I really think that somewhere out there is a consumer product made of a suitable steel. The rules of mass-production say that a mass-market product like that will always be delivered to the consumer at the rock-bottom price. Ordering a small quantity of steel from a specialized retailer is going to come at a premium. I'm not THAT cheap, but I want to see what's possible. Thanks for watching!

[@PerrynBecky]

Wouldn't old lawnmower blades also work? (Using the flat part near the center of the blade.)

[@franklerouge]

More tools is good. Never have too many tools!

[@45noname]

Easy to understand explanation of what makes up steel, I learnt something that i didn't understand, Thanks

[@RexKrueger]

Yeah, took me a long time time to get it, too. Ended up reading most of a book on the subject before the light finally went on. Glad to save someone else the trouble.

[@robmckennie4203]

You could just carburize some mild steel, there's some really good videos on the process on the clickspring channel

[@Tehcarp]

Rob Mckennie not for $2

[@horseblinderson4747]

It's called case hardening it can dig about a sixteenth of an inch so on a 1/8 blade it can functionally go all the way through at least as far as youd need it to on the back edge. Where you'd want it anyway.

[@robmckennie4203]

@@Tehcarp sure you could, if you looked at the video I mentioned, Chris made high carbon steel using charcoal, flour, and table salt

[@pleappleappleap]

Just because it's high-carbon, doesn't mean it's hardened. A high-carbon annealed steel will still show sparks like a hardened steel. You might just need to harden it.

[@MohsinExperiments]

Can we bend a high carbon steel? What will happen if we try to bend it? It will crack or bend?

[@tanveernajar6274]

Plzzz one video for haat treating

[@pptest1423]

You say that the file abrasion test on the edger steel is inconclusive because the scratches might be due to coating on it. Why not sand the edger steel a bit to eliminate the possible coating and then test it? A fine video, by the way.

[@RexKrueger]

Yup, that would have been a good test, but I knew I was going to spark it anyway and I wanted to keep things moving along. Sometimes, you sacrifice science to tell a better story. Glad you liked it!

[@_BLANK_BLANK]

Rex : speaking of basic and cheap Me: *looks in the mirror*

[@ted8919]

Not trying to be mean and I know it is likely someone has probably already said this, but the cast-iron you have is like a type called malleable cast-iron achieved after annealing the original cast part. Annealing removes stress in the part by relaxing the crystal s and allowing them to settle with less boundary tension. (Oversimplification) the process makes the part softer but more ductile. That also means it is less likely to hold an edge. Typically, cast-iron is Hard and Brittle. Things that are hard tend to be brittle because the structure has low plasticity. Think hard is to brittle as soft is to ductile.

[@RexKrueger]

I'm interested in your comment, but I'm really not sure what piece of cast iron you're talking about or why you think it's malleable iron.

[@ted8919]

Oh, of course. At 5:25 you show a block of material and call it cast iron. Then, at about 6:25 you show what looks like the same block of material and say its cast-iron and it is too soft and brittle to hold an edge. Then you file it at around 8:15. While it isn't indestructible, it should have been able to resist the dig of the file better then it had unless it had been annealed at some point.

[@RexKrueger]

@@ted8919 Ted, much respect to your careful comment here, I appreciate you taking the time, but you are incorrect. Cast iron (annealed or not) is very soft relative to hardened steel and is easily cut by a file. This hunk is just a weight that come from the base of an old lamp. I seems impossible that they would have used malleable iron for a weight. Also, I've worked with a bunch of cast. I also weld and blacksmith (although I don't include these things in my videos). I'm pretty familiar with metals. I'm pretty sure this is just ordinary cast iron, mostly because is behaves just like the dozens and dozens of pieces of cast I've worked with before. Here's a data sheet: www.matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=ec56a89f37f74e2f867a64b0f87f1e9d&n=1 Maybe I'm still misunderstanding something here. I'm more than happy to be proven wrong or learn something new.

[@ted8919]

@@RexKrueger Sorry for taking so long to reply. Maybe, the issue is the comparison of the specific materials being made. I would like to review some data before continuing the discussion, if that's ok. I hope you are not offended. I rather enjoy the prospect of sharing AND acquiring knowledge. After all, that is the reason I watched your video. I have no intention of "proving you wrong". I see it as more of a potentially mutually beneficial discussion of metallurgy. An opportunity to refine the knowledge of both parties. I'm not religious but somehow I find Proverbs 27.17 applies well to how I view this conversation.

[@nikburton9264]

Could you not harden the steel? I have made a couple of krenov planes from a lawnmower blade. I heated them to where they were nonmagnetic then plunged them in oil. Then put them in the oven for a couple hours, and allow to cool. They don't hold an edge like a Stanley, but close. And way better than a (admittedly cheap) Japanese plane I bought at the Big Thumb store in Yakuska.

[@RexKrueger]

I tried with a sample. Didn't harden. Must be a medium carbon steel. Drag.

[@jayejaycurry5485]

Are you writing a book, or have a ghost-writer writing one for you. You are getting into the area of the making of a mastercraftsman - one who not only is good at carpentry, but also is knowledgeable about non-woodworking skills related to carpentry. I see the need for such a book.

[@RexKrueger]

I've got a book on turning you can find on Amazon and I may be doing another book this year. Thanks for asking!

[@robertguinn8590]

Off topic question. Are those Irwin Marples chisels behind you? I looked through you videos to see if you talked about them. Do you like them?

[@RexKrueger]

That's a good question. Yes, they are the Irwin Marples chisels and I think they're a terrific value. I think a set of 6 goes for about $70 in a nice box. The handles are indestructible. I also have a set of Narex True Imperial chisels. I got the full set of 8 for $100. I like them even better, just for their wooden handles, which offer better grip and are easy to replace if one ever cracks. The Narex would be my top suggestion. They sell a set of 4 for pocket-change. Overall, I kind of suspect that all chrome-vanadium chisels are basically the same. It's all the same steel and there's nothing very special about it. It doesn't rust and it holds an edge well enough. Sharpens fast. I think that in the low and middle range of chisels, it just comes down to what you happen to like. There's no special sauce.

[@robertguinn8590]

Rex Krueger Thank you for the response. I want to get a good starter set of chisels. My theory is that if they are half decent it will be easier to learn with than a cheapo set of harbor freight chisels.

[@RexKrueger]

That's true, but even the HF chisels have gotten better recently. Lots of good options these days!

[@fernandosirianni337]

How wide can the blade of the plane be? because I found leaf springs from car's suspension and I understand that it is a great steel to harden and sharpen

[@RexKrueger]

As wide as you like. I'd keep it under 3".

[@fernandosirianni337]

@@RexKrueger sorry I expressed myself badly, how thick should it be?

[@cerberus2881]

I buy those 50 at a time. Never thought of those.

[@earlystrings1]

A bar of oil hardening tool steel big enough for several blades is only about 35 bucks. I admire the search for a cheap blade but at some point your time is worth more than the money. That blade you made that didn't skate a file won't hold an edge for very long I'll bet. It's possible you could reharden it and only slightly temper it, but how much time are you going to sink in a piece of mystery steel? Love your channel though.

[@RexKrueger]

Well, I did it for the experiment and the learning experience. I'm a blacksmith, too. I know about tool steels. It was for fun.

[@orcasea59]

Given the high prices caused by rarity and collector-mania, it would be nice to see alternatives like making irons for Stanley 45's, etc. I'm just not certain a grinder with a cutting wheel is accurate enough...? Also, doesn't the friction heat invoked by cutting them with a grinder reduce their temper?

[@RexKrueger]

You know, I have a really nice old plough-plane and no irons for it. I should make some. The grinder with the cutoff disc is not as accurate as one would like, but there are jigs and tricks for that. You can also cut over-size and then grind down to finished size. As to the grinder, people are generally too paranoid about that. If you do draw the temper, it changes color to let you know. Dip it in water right away to halt the damage and then just grind past the discoloration (which is always very shallow) and you're back in business. I do LOTS of cutting and grinding of tempered steel and it's just not that big of a problem.

[@orcasea59]

I would love to see a video (and I suspect a lot of plough plane owners would) on making rabbet/dado blades for a popular plane like the '45.' Cove or beading cutters would require machining, but man, given the ridiculous prices on ebay I would think a bored machinist could make some $$ making new stock. Might even be worth finding a used, bench-top mill somewhere... Maybe making a wood fixture or mount for a relatively inexpensive hand-held grinder for cutting and machining home-tooled cutter steel would be a good project...?

[@RexKrueger]

You could do it without milling...I think. Careful layout followed by filing or grinding could get the job done. Oh crap, now I'm going to be obsessing over this for the next month. Thanks. (But really, good idea.)

[@orcasea59]

Ha! Well, that's what you get for making me think! But seriously, given what people pay for rusted, pitted, worn cutters on ebay, here and in the UK, etc., I imagine a metal co. could stamp out blanks of the various widths and lengths in a batch (I don't know if a standard brake could cut A1...?), and then a table top mill with jigs could mill out the roughs pretty quickly (let the buyer do the final hone on them). Put them in a repro box with a nice non-copyright graphic on the side and one could make some hobby $$ at least. I look forward to seeing what you come up with, Rex!

[@RexKrueger]

Thanks so much for all your thoughtful comments. The next video will pick up right where this one leaves off. My patrons see it a week early. Just sayin...

[@EliteSniperFMJ]

some fire bricks and a propane torch will make a makeshift forge and a little youtubing will help (if you haven't done it before) but will you take some time to test hardening the and a few baking cycles in the oven for tempering. This should have great potential viewing the tests. Just not as hard as what you need right now

[@RexKrueger]

Unfortunately, I already heated a sample to non-mag and quenched it. It doesn't harden. Must be a medium-carbon steel like 1040. Too bad, too. I thought it had potential.

[@EliteSniperFMJ]

Perhaps a visit to the local junk yard and a few leaf springs could be another option. obviously a little smithing to flatten but that's usually a decent blade steel and it should be fairly cheap???

[@RexKrueger]

I just got a foot of 3/16 1095 off ebay for $20. I think that'll do the job and the price certainly is right. Look forward to heat-treating for woodworkers.

[@EliteSniperFMJ]

Cant wait to see the next vid.!.!.!

[@RexKrueger]

It's up for my patrons right now. Full release is Monday. Thanks for your encouragement!

[@AlbertAC54]

You mention that for people who don't have an angle grinder, the desired steel is too hard to cut with a hacksaw but that it's completely doable with tools you'd have in a standard basement or garage workshop... what would you say is (or are) the best "common" tool(s) to use in that case?

[@RexKrueger]

Yeah, I should have included that. You can do it with an angle-grinder or a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Also, this method of iron-making was mediocre at best. For better results, watch my video on making the Easiest Handplane Ever. Also, next week will be a full blade build from scratch. Thanks for watching!

[@AlbertAC54]

Thank you -- I will check that out! I was also thinking (not sure how important the thought is or what the outcome would be... I remember being told back in my auto body days that managing a torch flame was very important, that a carburizing flame would make the metal (steel sheet metal of a car) hard and brittle but that a very oxidizing flame would also mess up the metalurgy. Not sure if that could be leveraged, but good virgin steel or scrap from old tools isn't really that hard to come by. Mostly, thanks for thinking about the things you put in your videos and for sharing the videos!

[@harrymason1053]

Lawn mower blades and they wear out so I get many every season.

[@kimcurtis9366]

For what it's worth, a lawnmower blade is VERY hard, high carbon steel and any dump will have lawn mowers that have been thrown away! Since you are now, dabbling in Blacksmithing, you can heat and flatten the blade, if necessary, or cut it tosize with an angle grinder and cut off wheel! I KNOW they are high carbon steel because I make knives from them and the ones I have made knives from will make knives that are RAZOR SHARP! They hold an edge amazingly well! That way, you don't have ANY money in the vlade! Also, you could get several blades from one lawn mower blade! Here's a video from another fellow that used a lawn mower blade! kzbin.info/www/bejne/noLKnJqgbph3rck Good luck and best wishes!

[@clydedecker765]

NOW I can make those Japanese planes I have always wanted to make.

[@RexKrueger]

I'm glad to see you so excited, but wait until you see my next video. I've got an even better solution for plane irons. I'll also be doing several videos on plane-making in the next few weeks. Thanks for watching!

[@738polarbear]

cast iron has typically a high carbon content normally 2.55 to 4 % .

[@RexKrueger]

Yup, and I said that at 5:29.

[@RexKrueger]

5:24. Sorry.

[@daraas9421]

Rex if u didnt so far, check Stavros Gakos channel ;) i love his plane making... Good video btw ;)

[@saigyl9149]

I recently made an iron out of an old mower blade

[@prm6463]

What about magnet not sticking to steel? If its steel maget wont stick, that is also a test

[@RexKrueger]

Magnets do stick to steel. Some grades of stainless steel are non-magnetic, but this is not stainless.

[@zerodelta_9804]

wonder if a lawnmower blade could work instead of the edger blade

[@SSRT_JubyDuby8742]

I was told that if you grind a hardened blade you lose the hardened edge because it goes through the heat process again, is that the case?🔨👂🗜

[@davidcooper4119]

Only if you grind it to the point that temper colours start to show on the blade. Dip in water every few seconds of grinding to mitigate heat build up.

[@SSRT_JubyDuby8742]

@@davidcooper4119 cheers pal, thanks for sharing your knowledge. 😎

[@mattgatewood3743]

@@davidcooper4119 dipping the tool in water is easy enough, but another way to avoid overheating a tool with a grinder is to use a vintage hand crank grinder. Not too much speed or power and the user has pretty good control over the edge. Not as easy to find as a modern tool but I've come across a few on Craigslist, so they are out there. Not in high demand either, so not real pricey. Just throwing it out there for guys like me that really enjoy putting old hand tools back into service.

[@ChristIsLord229]

How can i email you?

[@budc2578]

What’s the end result of making this iron ? Anyone reporting success?

[@mothman-jz8ug]

Video after video - from numerous sources - buying planes, sharpening planes, collecting planes, modifying planes; There seems to be no bounds to the inexplicable plane fetish some people have. I have worked with wood some 50 years, many years of that professionally making furniture and, especially, cabinetry. I did use a plane once. I fixed a sticky bedroom door. I even owned a plane for many years, but never used it. I ran across it one day where it had been left unattended for umpteen years and had rusted all over. I pitched it in the trash. Now, too late, I know there are many who would have loved to restore the thing and add it to their collection. I just didn't know until recently - after retiring - about all the people with the plane fetish thing going on.