Reviewing a "Continental" hand plane (budget plane shootout)

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[@RexKrueger]

Apologies for the outdated map of Europe. I grabbed the first thing that was bright and had bold lines. Okay, now no one else needs to tell me about it. I'm good. Promise.

[@oliverdelica2289]

Rex Krueger lol I guess getting the map of Europe wrong is TIGHT

[@MikkosFree]

@@oliverdelica2289 it was barely an inconvenience

[@oliverdelica2289]

Mikhail Galatinov yeah yeah yeah😂

[@oliverdelica2289]

Mikhail Galatinov hi 5 on the Screen Rant references

[@petrgallus5132]

I was thinking that you just make joke, that the plane is from Germany insted of Czech Republic, which is missing on the map.

[@hmpeter]

Yeah, this style is "the" plane style over here in Germany. I just got a quite old Doppelhobel (jack plane) gifted from my neighbor when he heard I picked up woodworking, shortly before he passed away. Was a master cabinet maker back in the 50s and 60s. I definitely have to learn to use it decently now...

[@Gringoros]

in germany they are all over the fleemarkets. the metallic ones are actually way more rare here

[@durstloscher2362]

And Obi or Hellweg only sell these kind of planes and it doesnt even have a protecter for the thumb and pointfinger so your resting your hand behind the iron and it doesnt have a chipbreaker. Pure horror and i would kill for an metal one.

[@Sideshowbobx]

@@durstloscher2362 Obi and such sell the "EKO" variant of this plane - they all made by Pinie in CZ. Rex shows the "Standard" variant and there is yet a "Premium" one with Reformhobel adjustment system For an affordable metal plane try "Silverline" on Ebay - they need tuning but make a good plane once that is done.

[@borjesvensson8661]

@@durstloscher2362 dont disregard them thoug. They can still be exelent.

[@That_one_and_only_username]

Im in France, i never found any metal one... Managed to find an ulmia with ajustable mouth for like 5€ ... Good aswell

[@thefullmonte1902]

I live in Denmark, and must admit that I haven't seen an iron plan until a few years back. All wooden planes here... and I actually had a wooden vice (with the wooden screw) on my bench in the 70-ties and 80-ies.

[@Exiledk]

I live in Denmark too.. have mostly seen old metal Stanleys... Maybe this is local choices? I'm on Sjælland...

[@1977TCBElvis]

Hi Rex. Even though I use full metal planes, I love to pick up high end wooden planes on fleemarkets for just a few €s and bring them back to life. These were developed through the centuries and used by generations of carpenters. They really do have their place today. Greetings from Germany to all of our wood loving friends.

[@RexKrueger]

Many thanks!

[@Feralhyena]

Reminds me of my Grandfather's Ulmia Bench Plane. Been using it for over a decade and I love it.

[@hermannschaefer4777]

Ulmia is a well known brand from Germany and still in business.

[@dunka12]

wow, that map is so insane, i don't even know where to start. It's not even old, it's an alternate history map :)) My country it's not even there.

[@tristanassimos4358]

Did I miss something? I never saw or found the shootout result video for budget planes. Love the videos and tips by the way. Thanks!!

[@avrumisolaimani8546]

ya where is it

[@adrienrenaux6211]

wondering too

[@cjoe5977]

I’m not 100% but I think he sorta decided on the Stanley low angle Jack

[@sunolcheese9208]

@@cjoe5977 no he said it doesn’t make a good smoother I think he decided on the India planes

[@oliverdelica2289]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYOYeWmFhKdrsJY

[@tabhorian]

Another thing about wooden planes. They go back in time for thousands of years with very little change. And really, other than being made of metal the modern ones are pretty much the same. I like the fact that the way we use it is about the same as the way the egyptians used it. And after seeing the egyptian exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum in NYC last April, I am super impressed with what our ancestors did with basically the same tools we have. So, way to go!

[@user-hq2rz6qx8e]

Rex:"... so big that I can look through it and see you. you need to clean your house..." me: *remove the bottle of vodka from the table, kick the bear out into the street*

[@silentwisdom7025]

Nas vidania

[@user-tg3xw1cb2l]

@@silentwisdom7025 it should be "Do svidania"

[@SuperDrobny]

Hey! The bear is not at fault here, is just a pet!

[@prospero768]

Like others already mentioned, I don't believe the plane is supposed to have a mouth like this. I have the scrub plane from this company which has exactly this kind of wide mouth (albeit with a cambered iron) and a jointer plane with a mouth which is much narrower, as jack planes should be. Checking their website, the high bed angle suggests that what you have is "hoblík cídič" which is intended for final fine smoothing of hard lumber. Closer to your typical wooden plane would be the "hoblík klopkař" model with a more typical 45° bed angle and a narrow mouth shown on Amazon.

[@davidclark9086]

I have been using one for decades and love it. One note is that they are also very easy to use on the pull.

[@skasandy448]

David Clark, this is what lead me to give Japanese planes a try!

[@pasowec2370]

Hi Rex, I am happy you promote products from Czech Republic, especialy when we talk about company based only 2 miles from village where I live! Thank you!

[@Tome4kkkk]

I recently bought an OPP Rakovnik very narrow scrub plane with an exotic wood sole for one quarter of the price!

[@RexKrueger]

I think your country makes some great stuff!

[@Tome4kkkk]

@grafvonstauffenburg It just goes to show that it's better to have a long-term occupation by Austro-Hungary/Germany than Russia :D Some elements and sometimes even whole designs of Czech tools are identical to those from companies like Ulmia and ECE. But! Be aware that capitalism takes its toll everywhere. Pumping money from engineering to marketing, lowering quality. Recently I was informed that a retailer no longer sells some Czech brand of measuiring equipment due to diminished quality. I went ahead and bought the machininst square in Class 1 (?) accuracy from a known German manufacturer MiB. Jeeeesus! I had to bring it probably from Class 4 up a notch by myself. It was a DIY kit basically! I no longer buy new company products from stationary stores and I always film the unpacking. You won't believe the audacity of some customer service representatives.

[@thegodfarter420]

Yesterday I bought a cheap continental plane for $15 at a flee market. It would only get thick shavings on the edges, but nothing on the face of a board. After flattening the sole on 240grit sandpaper it worked like a charm! Mine is set as a smoother (smaller mouth) and it really does give nice thin shavings. Yet I couldn't figure out the angle of the blade. It wasn't 25° and 30°, but I did make a nice sharp edge by feel. I love the ergonmics of the handplane and my hand really fits well. Didn't expect it to be that good! Great vid man!

[@lukedogwalker]

Best feature I can see is that big front handle that helps distribute the pushing force. How about a video looking at retrofitting a similar handle on to a metal plane?

[@varano6836]

I really appreciate your enthusiasm about hand tools. You showed the advantages of continental handplanes. There are aspects that I never see before your video. greetings from a continental fan

[@bakerzermatt]

Idea for a video (or a series): Comparing old continental style tools, techniques and styles to US/UK styles. See where we can learn neat old tricks.

[@johnkelley9877]

Thanks for the review. I appreciate your honesty on all of your reviews.

[@jacksonwillis8683]

Fascinating! Thanks for the informative video Rex! I've seen a continental style plane in an antique store near me, and now I might have to consider buying it.

[@averagejoe4837]

Always interesting to watch your content. I always come out the other end having learned something. Big fan here.

[@WolfKenneth]

I love the looks of this style planes 😍

[@bevanstuart9013]

Thanks Rex. I am looking forward to your "summarization" video.

[@wookiefeverpresents8333]

Rex, love your channel. I'm a beginner woodworker and your insight and information is very educational. Thank you for what you do.

[@RexKrueger]

That's really nice to hear!!

[@caskwith]

I have a Pinie Jointer plane, it's a beast but lovely to use.

[@jimcarter4929]

Yeah Rex summer is over, been waiting anxiously for final plane shootout.

[@theodorefalce8181]

You could always inlay a triangle shape of hardwood on the sole to close the mouth and create a true smoothing plane. Or just round the corners of the iron and create a true scrub (fore) plane.

[@63DegreesNorth]

That’s most definitely a scrub plane. I have one along with its smoothing plane brother, bought direct from Pinie in Czech Republic.

[@shannonburke5286]

they make a scrub plane, same giant mouth but with a cambered iron and no chip breaker

[@bighands69]

@@shannonburke5286 It is still a scrub plane rather than a finish plane but it is good enough to perform as a finish plane.

[@johnmurrell3175]

The part number shows it to be a smoothing plane on the Pinie Website. The scrub planes do not have chip breakers and also have cambered (rounded) blades so are a challenge to sharpen.

[@jerryjohnsonii4181]

Very Cool Wood Plane !!!!!!!!! Thanks for showing it Rex an the knowledge about it.

[@RexKrueger]

Thank you!

[@captnsnafu]

great review, thanks !

[@JJChWorkshop]

Hello rex, thanks for great review! As I use the pinie planes quite often (couse they are made in my country), there is little bit more info. The plane you have seems to be some kind of a scrub plane really. Pinie does make smoothing planes of course, but they have the classic narrow mouth (eliminating the problem you encounter when planing the end of the stock). And about the quality, Pinie does make three grades of quality - EKO, classic and premium planes. They differ in quite a few things (most notably body material and iron material and hardness). In case you guys decide to buy one, I recommend going for the classic/premium as they have better irons. They also sell the irons seperatly, so in case you want new iron for your old continental wood plane they are a good choice. Here in Europe, these wood planes are really super common, and you can get them second hand for really small prices, like 2-5$, and like 10$ for the well preserved ones. I even got well preserved wooden jointer coming from late Austria-Hungary (made 1911) for 5$! On the other hand the Stanley-like steel-body planes sell for crazy prices, as they are rarity here. Always love to watch your videos mate, keep up the great work!

[@densamme1752]

Swedish woodworker adding my two cents. That's a scrubplane, must be a translation issue, it smoothes rough bords, it's not a finishing plane, you only need to put a raidius on the steel. I use one often (same design, the horn really gives it more power) on plit timber before using the jackplane (also with a horn) but I use a coffin style plane as a finishing plane (same planes that my great grandfather used but I have added new soles to the ones I use).

[@antonb9459]

Not really true, srub planes already have rounded off irons and also single irons. This one has two irons and therefore is kind of a doppelhobel (jackplane?) witha strangely wide mouth. Don't reslly know why it is that wide

[@VyacheslavAzarov]

Thanks for the review. I bought Pinie smoother and jointer arter that. I've been using them for some time now. You can bypass the issue with the chipbreaker by clamping both the chipbreaker and the blade sideways in a vice before tightening the screw. It prevents the chipbreaker from sliding side to side and mostly from shifting forwards or backwards. Also AFAIK the one you have is from the older line (I actually asked this question to the distributor here). The one I have has 45 degree pitch and a narrow mouth. All of their "classic" series planes come like this now. It costs 20 bucks here in Russia.

[@abunchofpaella]

Comming from a small country in Balkan region - the look you gave to the wooden plane on the begining of the video was almost the same i gave when i first save the Stanley or Bailey :D Before your chanel, continental plane is all i knew. I own an Ulmia Ott Matador - on ebay its around 40 euros (thats about $50), but i bought it on a fleamarket for $3, and yes, the chipbreaker slides very much, so i need to tap it a bit to align it with the blade.

[@AndrewMorgan666]

Thank you for this review, living in the UK have been thinking about buying one of these from Germany, might just go ahead with the purchase now

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks Rex.

[@2tall54]

I have infinity wooden planes and I like them. It appears, though, that the one you show here is not the smoothing plane but the scrub plane (the large mouth). The smoothing plane has a much smaller mouth.

[@GaryT1952]

👍

[@tungsten_carbide]

The mouth size certainly makes sense for a scrub, but a true scrub plane would only have a single iron (no use having a double iron in a scrub) and it would be supplied with a cambered edge , with a _very_ pronounced curve on it.

[@antonb9459]

It's what you call "doppelhobel" in germany. I think it's the equivalent of a jack plane. We have the same plane with a single iron, don't know where there's a need for that though

[@JasperJanssen]

So, looking at the pinie website, this is clearly a Classic plane: it has the hornbeam sole and does not have mechanical adjusters. You can also see that the sole has not been significantly reduced in thickness. There are three planes in this size class: the scrub, the bench, and the Jack. In current production, only the jack of these three has an iron with a chipbreaker. They don’t show the mouth profile of any of the three on the site. But I don’t see anything with separate inserts anywhere. I would say that this looks like it’s the scrub plane except with a jack iron.

[@Hastatius]

@@JasperJanssen I've bought a professional line smoothing plane from Pinie because of this video, and it is superb, i LOVE it, and the profi iron (which is only a few more euros) is very good in fact.

[@ishumannature9565]

Hi Rex, been enjoying your channel for quite some time. I had found a "continental" plane (i live in greece, so it's just a plane here) at the flea market for like 5 euros. I was watching your video some days ago and i decided to dust it off, sharp the iron and glue it back together, since the handle was off. It now works great, thanks to your other videos about sharpening and i was amazed. Many thanks for your content. Only thing i did, was i turned the handle clockwise a little bit, so it's more comfortable to my hand.

[@tomthumb1671]

Loved video, I have a original Boka German jack , has no metal chip breaker as the wedge has a cut out for chip breaker, its sharp always as steel is thick , I use this on Aussie Hardwoods and edging sleepers , blade last 10 times longer than a metal plane , no fiction ,a great plane , tradesman forget these planes have there place too. happy 2020

[@kevinkennedy-spaien8163]

Ok Rex, you've had your excursion into low angle, bevel-up planes, but we're ready for the promised "end-of-summer" inexpensive smoothing plane shootout. This was the last video in that series, so let's have it... Where should I spend my money on a cheap plane! We're counting on you to weigh in!

[@RexKrueger]

It's coming; I promise!

[@andreicharpentierquesada4530]

Wooow definitive i want some of those

[@mymemeplex]

My favourite smoother is a coffin style but with the raised back like the continental style, you can operate it one handed and it fits so nicely in my hand.

[@RexKrueger]

That does sound nice.

[@Caromaros]

I’ve been cleaning all afternoon, I just wanted to take some notes on what tools I want to get! Lmao I love your jokes, your videos have really gotten me interested in woodworking with hand tools!

[@prjndigo]

The horn is made that way so you can gently lift it while pushing like the motion you use in a Scythe, the forward down pressure of the rear hand keeps the plane flat, the forward up motion of the forehand keeps the glide and holds the weight of the plane up. Listen to the web of your thumb for a grinding sound, it should be a distant whisper instead of feeling the wood contact. Most of my grandfather's continentals had a longer screw for the chip and a cam block with metal pins to fit under the head and pivot. Its been half a lifetime since my mom dumped about $10k worth of hand wood tools for $90 at a garage sale 8(. She kept all the junk phillips screwdrivers for some reason.

[@ZARV01]

Hi, I inherited one of these after my grandfather it has over 40 years of age and it works nicely. Czech made :-), great video BTW!

[@gumtreeterry9904]

Pinie have redesigned the mouth I understand. On the more recent planes (I got mine over a year ago) it is much smaller. I use mine as a smoother. Once it is commissioned - flatten the sole and fettle where the iron sits to maximise contact, oh and shorten the wedge a tad to allow the shavings to escape - it works beautifully. I also had the same problem with the chip breaker and dealt with it the same way. The hornbeam sole really burnishes the wood.

[@porek965]

In my local hardware store there are only the wooden handplanes, but the wooden planes they have got are really good.

[@GraemePayne1967Marine]

Excellent!

[@williamtorbenson5240]

I loved that intro

[@mySelf-yx4hw]

i've gotone of these nice planes, i think that it was given to me they are sold here in the UK by ALDI as part of their Workzone range, there light and easy to handle and give good results

[@nealwalden3543]

The very nice maker of wooden planes is ECE Emmerich in Germany. They are awesome, especially the absence of any back-lash in the mechanism. Sold in the USA in a variety of catalogs, certainly shown in LeeValley/Veritas. Highly recommended. I have their primus smoothing plane and it is amazing to use.

[@RexKrueger]

You realize I showed an ECE in this video, right?

[@jorgecruz7601]

A spherical washer might solve the problem of the screw not being flat against the blade. It’s actually two pieces , one convex the other concurve. They’re great for angular misalignments like this.

[@sonke5485]

Hey Rex I am a professionell wood worker from germany. I only learnd to use this type of plane. I aktualy was confused about all the planes you are normaly using, because i never see something like this here. Thanks for the little lesson on planetypes.

[@nothanks7919]

Best. Intro. Ever.

[@izaqueduffy235]

they make a very good scrub plane, most second hand ones i find in australia are set up that way

[@ureasmith3049]

I got the primus smoothie. Nice plane.

[@maineiachomestead7550]

Now I know what they're called, thanks. I have one I got at a local flea market here in Ukraine for a couple bucks. I think I'll snag a couple more to play with before I head back to Maine.

[@SianaGearz]

Funny thing about that "you need to clean your house" bit, it's a self fulfilling prophecy. If the viewer is a tidy person, they probably have an urge to clean up anyway, even if it's essentially clean, if they're not, well then the statement is just true. I don't know whether you put that much thought into it, or whether you borrowed it from somewhere, but congrats, it's pretty smart.

[@lourias]

The first few seconds looked like the white bottle in the background was a small bottle on top of the handle. You can make things so funny! LOL

[@LimitedGunnerGM]

I have a #4 and a #6 bailey pattern, but I find myself grabbing my wooden Japanese plane more times than not. I like the feel and weight of the wooden planes. I think I’m going to get a couple more Kannas and leave them set for different cut depths.

[@martinseelig585]

1:02 your map needs an urgent update... ...it seems to be from the 1930s...

[@wolframherzog636]

martin seelig yes, indeed the map is outdated 🙄

[@martinseelig585]

@Ken Fullman In the 1990s that maps "Germany" would not include all of Austria and large parts of Poland and the French Alsace region. That whole map is just a complete mess!

[@Schmuni]

#mapgore

[@marekbenda2163]

@@martinseelig585 Yeah there is also missing Czech Reblic(Czechia) , next to the Slovakia

[@martinseelig585]

@@marekbenda2163 that's especially bad 'cause the plane he's reviewing is from the Czech republic.

[@maineiachomestead7550]

At my local flea market in SE Ukraine there are always a few of these. I have two to bring home and a couple moulding planes.

[@anthonymiller8979]

I pretty much use only ECE and Ulmia planes very similar to this one (minus the huge mouth). I do think that large mouth will give problems for most. A good, used ECE or Ulmia can be had for $60 on eBay and have all the plus feature and not the minus, huge mouth opening. No idea why they thought that was needed on anything other than a scrub plane. The ECE and Ulmia planes come in either 45 deg or 49 deg angles depending on whether it is a Jack or a Smoother.

[@bighands69]

It is really a scrub plane rather than a finish plane but clear is good enough when set up to do finish work.

[@wernerviehhauser94]

There is one trick you can do with these planes when working with real hard wood: turn the iron to get a blade angle of about 75°. One caveat of these planes is that the sides are often not square to the bottom, which is bad when using them on shooting boards. I'm considering to buy one cast iron plane for this, after I am done restoring the wooden planes I "inherited" when I bought my house.

[@jimbo2629]

I have a second hand one of these with a cow horn handle. I rather like it and I modified it like you did for comfort. You could fill the big mouth with a slab of shaped beech . I glued some foam behind the iron for comfort. I don’t possess the perfect plane. Hammer adjustment is not as good as the Stanley system. I have a Qiangsheng 5 and the handles are really really comfortable and the blade and adjustment mechanism are superb, but it is very heavy. My home made wooden planes use a mixture of hammer and Veritas Norris type adjusters. I find the arm of the Norris is too short for leverage so I end up tapping the blade laterally with a hammer. One day I might just buy a Lee Nielsen or Veritas number 5, but the cost is high and it would probably make most of my other planes redundant. So what would be my ideal. I guess it would be a Stanley with Qiangsheng handles and a Veritas blade. And somehow get a machinist to reduce the free play in the adjuster. Meanwhile I use my edge sander and sanding thicknesser a lot. And my homemade planes because I made them, and they sit on show handy on my bench. Rather than adjusting them I set the blade protrusion different in each. Great video presentation says it all.

[@kareongames]

you have peaked my interest with buying this plane, cuz made in my country :)

[@alangreen3425]

Ok....I have a set of Infinity wooden bench planes. The only one with a mouth opening like the one you showed was the scrub plane with the radiused iron., . The rest were pretty tight and they all worked well. Not to mention, instead of being adjusted with a hammer, they all have Norris adjusters...even the long jointer plane.. awesome planes...if you like wooden modern planes...

[@zarcon31]

Rex, It would be interesting for you to make a horn style handle for one of your Bailey style planes. Jus to see if you can improve the performance. Keep up the great videos.

[@Hastatius]

In fact on amazon it is sold as smoothing plane, but found it on their native site in Czech, and by the mouth it is a scrub plane for roughing. Smoothers and levelers come with tight mouths also, and on the amazon the sole is also pictured as tight...

[@fasol1998]

Got a similar one without a chipbreaker. Looks fine. Still had no chance to try it out, but this video makes me rather optimistic about it, though its mouth is the same big.

[@AntuandeSadExzepury]

I bought a similar planer in good condition (it still needed to be restored a little) at the local market a few years ago for 300 rubles (3-4 bucks). In Russia, this is indeed a very popular type of wooden planer. Mine doesn't have such a big mouth and doesn't have that special rest for the working hand behind the knife, but I'm happy with it.

[@vihuelamig]

I had an ECE Primus, the fancy one with the adjuster. Didn't like the adjuster at all so I sold it and bought another ECE double iron plane with the wedge. Really nice planes and although not exactly a budget version they aren't hugely expensive either. I wish they would do a No.3 version (7 1/2") with a 1 3/4" double iron.

[@Christopher_Gibbons]

Hmm. Infinity seems to have updated their lineup. All the bench planes have screw adjusters for the blades now. and their smoothing planes have normal sized mouths. All the benefits you described and few of the downsides. Tempting, very tempting.

[@joshwalker5605]

I bought an ECE plane with a screw adjuster off ebay and its BY FAR my favorite plane. Light, narrow adjustable mouth. Also they don't need lubrication but it still helps.

[@RexKrueger]

I very much want to try one of those.

[@joshwalker5605]

Rex Krueger here’s a link to the one i have (no affiliation at all with whoever is selling it) www.ebay.com/itm/2-ECE-Garantie-Planes-Primus-Smoothing-Plane-Scrub-plane-Nice/193131796997

[@TheGogeta222]

Here in Germany we wax the sole

[@HepauDK]

I have a JP80 No.51 that I inherited from my late grandfather who died in '02. I have no idea how old it is, but it is probably older than I am (and I'm 44). The sole looks like some sort of hardwood plywood with the layers across the sole. the size of the mouth is adjustable and the blade and chip breaker are held in place by a locking plate of sorts with a big finger screw. I have never used it, and it has been stored in an unheated garage for ages so the metal parts are quite rusty and the blade is dull, but maybe I should restore it when I get the time and see what it can do.

[@corbinfonville1012]

Hey Rex, something I've noticed that might be worth mentioning in your videos is that tear-out can be significantly reduced by using a planing stop rather than a vice. It's because the board shifts so much while planing in a vice (you can see that happening here kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHTXfoSXepqAqLc). That shift leaves the grain less supported for the cut, causing more of a "levering" than "severing" action when the blade runs over it. I don't have a flat bench or fancy bench dogs, so i usually just clamp a low-profile piece of wood to the bench as a planing stop, but i come out with dead-flat pieces, even for very large surface planes

[@chris_thornborrow]

Rex, had a look around and Narex makes planes also. You might want to test one out.

[@cezaryw.9570]

Oh god this map!

[@stefanhaustein503]

I think what you have there is a Doppelhobel. its used to clean up after the scrub plane (Schrupphobel).Smoothing planes have narrower mouths. There is a simple smoothing plane and a more sophisticated version called Reformputzhobel. If you want to see high quality wooden planes Google Ulmia or ECE

[@erikgranqvist3680]

I think it is better to just buy a few used planes. I dont know how it is in US, but over here in Sweden you can find wodden planes for about 10-20 $ on auction sites. They will take an hour or so to fix up - but they are clearly worth it.

[@1pcfred]

The USA is a big place so it varies region to region. Some places there's lots of tools and they're cheap. Some places there are not many tools and what you can find is expensive. Where I'm at there's not much but it is mostly cheap. I've never paid more than $20 for any plane I own. I don't have anything fantastic though. Some are in pretty bad shape really.

[@zacdredge3859]

13:15 That songs gonna be stuck in my head all day now, hahaha

[@Tome4kkkk]

A word of correction. The big mouth is by design and no one explains it better than Richard Maguire himself. He speaks from experience arguing that tight mouth and a chip breaker is a redundancy, i.e. you don't really need tight mouth when you have your chip breaker set properly. Why such a big mouth? I don't know. Perhaps to enable taking reaaaally huge chunks from edges of boards. I did that myself using my scrub plane. As for the bad fitting of the chip breaker, I'll try to look into that. I can't seem to pinpoint it properly in the video. PS. Someone by the name Rex Krueger looking like that at a "continental" plane sure made me smile ;)

[@daw162]

The reason the iron was close to flat isn't a matter of cost or effort, it's the choice of steels - something relatively low alloy but with stability additives. It probably costs about $1-$2 in materials and machine cost to make those irons (we've got an odd idea thanks to boutique irons now that irons need to be made out of some kind of more expensive alloy that's easier for the heat treater, or that has wear resistance - but takes proportionally longer to sharpen, or sometimes more). Strip steels (like the stuff razor blades are made from) are intentionally made to limit handling and heat treat complexity, and generally tolerate things like being punched out instead of cut (that's a big deal when $1 per iron counts).

[@mercoid]

Thank you.

[@AaronTWas]

HA! I would not have gotten that “let’s get down to business” “Mulan” reference if I didn’t have a 4 y/o daughter listening to Disney songs constantly. 🎶 “I’ll make a man out of y-“ DAMMIT REX!!!! Thank you for the great content!

[@nightcatarts]

The trick to using these is using that front horn to push forwards and using your other hand to push down at the back, rather than the other way around as you would with many metal planes (hence why the horn doesn't have a rounded top). The iron being closer to the back of the sole & your weight being at the front of it has as much to do with that rolling you were getting at the end of the board as the giant mouth on that model I think. I'd be interested in seeing your take on cheap router planes, if you can even manage to find any. I've been looking to get one for ages since they're so useful, but those with microadjusters all appear to be very expensive, & the lack of variety means even second hand models maintain their price quite well.

[@jamesharris7868]

That plane is the one you can convert to a scrub plane.I have a ECE Emmerich smoother that is wonderful to use made in 1852

[@steveconlon8936]

Love your "for humans" videos, Rex...enormous help to a noob like me. One thought on your upcoming guide: are you RE-storing planes if they are new? Cross out the "RE" on the cover! :)

[@1pcfred]

I have an old horn plane I picked up at a yard sale. I can't say I'm a fan of the design personally. When I cleaned out my tool cabinet it got relegated to an overflow toolbox because I never used it. I paid big for it too. $15 if memory serves me. It has a two cherries iron in it.

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

The great thing for us continental Europeans is their price on garage sales: high quality irons, great bodies in a variety of sizes and a lot of pieces to build/combine Your own collection of good planes go for 10 to 15 bucks for a whole bucket - these are so numerous in Europe they aren't even worth a lot when really antique. Another good thing is their adaptability formwise, so You can build next to any form out of a not-so-good-any-more body with Your simple woodworking tools You already have. There are sets of profile planes for next to ANY form of trim common in European the last two centuries in nearly every "antique" or restoration workshop, and You can very easily build those You do not yet have - I keep a drawer with "scrap" planes to cut profiles in the sole when needed. A stanley 45 is a nice treat, but specialized woodies are the better choice should You do more than some inches of profile per week. And they do not corrode no matter how "marine" the environment You use 'em in.

[@hermannschaefer4777]

2:46 The angle is just the difference between a (in German) Putzhobel and a Schlichthobel (literally cleaning plane and leveling plane), I guess it's smoothing plane and jack plane? A Putzhobel has about 50° and the blade mouth is normally very narrow and it is used for the final finish of a surface, a Schlichthobel has 45°, a single iron and is just used to make he surface even - and even enoigh for a Putzhobel.

[@jamesstroud3321]

Try this when you nest use that plane. Turn it around so the blade is facing you. Put it so the blade is facing you. Instead of pushing it through the wood pull it toward you. It works a lot better and is easier to use. Basically, it is like a Japanese pull plane. I have had one for about 20 years and it is lovely that way.

[@petrsidlo7614]

the mouth of the plane is interesting. I own one just like yours, excpet the mouth (with the iron set for minimal cut) is only about 3 milimeters (1/8"), and the plane never gives me any tearout issues. also, mine has the 45 degree blade angle and nowadays they even make them adjustable, so looking forward to another one of your reviews!

[@petermikus2363]

Looking at their page this thing also comes in a adjustable blade variant which is interesting

[@twiho]

This is the premium version among these planes. The same company makes a chaper version without the lacquer etc. I did plane things for me.

[@al1rednam]

I know I'm a little late... But to the problem of the mouth falling over the end of your board there are 2 simple ways. A) avoid it by planing oversized and cutting to length after planing or B) reduce pressure on the horn as you approach the end of the board. I live in Germany where this kind of plane is the go to kind and that's just the technique I was shown by my grandfather and my uncle (my father showed me more metal work than wood work - and yes I'm more of a jack of all trades than a master of any... ) My first success with planning was taking a scrap of wood and a plane I restored and producing a whole lot of thin slices (about. 5 mill). But those didn't go to waste, I pressed them flat and wove them to small boxes. Let's not talk about those😅, I learned planing 👍

[@tungsten_carbide]

I wondered whether the gigantic mouth on these would be a problem, now I know! I picked up another quality German smoother myself recently, secondhand, and like the ECE you showed it has a relatively small mouth. Really looking forward to the cheap-plane shootout/comparison when you have it completed! Keep up the good work. P.S. Loved the intro bit hahaha.

[@RexKrueger]

Thank you!

[@ikust007]

Ulmia are generally very high quality finished , from what I remember

[@antonbehringer9170]

1:05 I wonder where he found a map like that.

[@donmeles7711]

I have a cheap version of this. No chip breaker and no such ergonomic wedge behind the blade. It was really cheap in a German hardware store.

[@KDemosh]

Wooden washer, maybe with an angle to it, for the chip breaker? Same idea that you had adding a wooden shim for the cheap cast iron plane to stop the blade from moving around.