Making a Bluegill Swimbait, A 4-piece lure with one hinge?

In this video we make a multipart panfish swimbait with a single hinge. I work out a method to use a single continuous hinge.
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[@EngineeredAngler]

Did anyone catch the build sequence error I made? I forgot to weigh the lure parts, after I shaped and carved, so I can calculate the amount of lead to add.. Now I'll have to weigh the parts as they hang on the tape and do a little guesstimation engineering to account for the paint and tape.

[@thewarpsyrhead]

Looking forward to part ✌️

[@pontoontri-hull156]

I made a six piece lure for a friend that had a small tie-down strap through it for the continuous hinge. It also had two halves, so there were 12 pieces of wood. I made a weight for each section's half, hand shaped the lead, and carved a cavity for the weight in every wooden piece. it took me an entire week working long days to make that lure. That was a lot of work, and I will never make another lure the way I did this one. Told my friend that this is a "one-of-a-kind" lure!!! I finished the other lure I was working on at the time, then took a couple months off lure making to recover. LOL

[@EngineeredAngler]

I can relate!

[@jorylyons6172]

Love your scientific approach to lure weighting

[@EngineeredAngler]

More to come!

[@mike1261]

When you finish this complex lure build, I would be greatly interested in knowing how many hours it took to complete, start to finish. Thanks! Looking forward to the next segment... see what I did there? LOL

[@ronokahumbuturner8830]

I would paint a base coat, then glue up and do the final painting on the assembled lure, I love how you’ve arranged the pieces for painting though. Can’t wait to see how this one turns out.

[@pontoontri-hull156]

I did that with the segmented lure that I made. The thing you need to be careful about, is to not get paint and clear-coat on the flexible joint, or it will lose its flexibility and stiffen up. Sure makes handling the lure easier, so there are trade-offs.

[@peparenal]

Thanks for the metric measurements!

[@EngineeredAngler]

No problem!

[@xnorcal831x]

Peice of hard wood with a 45 cut then drill two holes in the angled side. Glue two magnets inside. You clamp the wood to the bait in a vice. It helps keep the blade flat for clean cuts.

[@EngineeredAngler]

That's a good tip and if used v-joints regularly I would make a proper jig. Actually, maybe a jig build would make a good video...

[@leehowell4258]

I've noticed more and more segmented swimbaits held together with fabric over traditional wire type hinges. Excited to see how this one turns out and the action in the water!

[@lllllsp1d3rlllll]

Yeah but it don't work.the fabric leaches apoxy and everything you use into it like a candle wick then it breaks.the sandwich method works the best with wire becouse u can use this method with any wood even balsa Couse if everything it linked by wire even if the wood breaks or cracks etc you can still catch the fish Couse the wire is still connected from front to back through the segments.i use a full through wire in all my baits even segmented lures.

[@stripermanly]

Plan on making some using the fabric (belt strap) this year.

[@Matt-md1xt]

Small swimbaits are my favorite. I liked how you made the fins for this.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Glad you like them!

[@hankvana2149]

Like your approach Franco - concept, plan and adapt as required 😉 I call it "dynamic engineering" ...the focus on "what if". It doesn't always turn out as expected but lots is learned. I call the flip side, "static engineering" ...the focus is on "guaranteed results". It's a safe approach that follows established patterns. Results are predictable at the cost of innovation. Both have their place. Lure design is great entertainment, I can bash out a couple of half-baked prototypes just to test a theory - dynamic engineering at its best! Have a great weekend!

[@EngineeredAngler]

I'm onboard with that...

[@surfcat2051]

I don't like 2 part builds but will be back to see the finished product. Looking good so far.

[@pontoontri-hull156]

Agreed. a couple channels I watch almost always do two-part builds, so I rarely re-watch their videos. But since Franko is faithful in putting out weekly builds, has a schedule to meet, and this is an extremely complex and time consuming build, I fully understand why it is a two-part video. I took an entire week off work and spent 12 & 14 hour days to make one of these lures. That wouldn't have left any time for moving cameras around, lighting, video editing, or anything else it takes to publish a weekly video. Like you, I will happily be back this coming Friday for the next installment.

[@lllllsp1d3rlllll]

Hi I hope you read this I just want you to know you are my fav lure desighner you are so down to earth smart and know what you are talking about.i love that you have not let the fake go to your head keep up the good work.i would love to bounce lure ideas off you and share some of my own with you some time.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Thanks...you can send lure photos the email [e-mail]

[@cilikimithi8037]

Apart from the lure, The lure handle for painting on 19:20 is also cool. Waiting for part two.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Coming soon!

[@wesneal7913]

Can't wait to see what paint scheme you come up with for this one and see what kind of action it has.

[@JonJonsOutdoors]

The tongue depressor fins are genius! Love that!! I w at to use polycarbonate and make silicone copies for mine. For some reason in my head I think them being softer allows a better bite. Great vid!

[@lightsnsiren79]

Solid advice on the casting! Thanks!

[@EngineeredAngler]

Glad it was helpful!

[@hookreelfishing]

Another great video!! Can't wait for P2!!

[@EngineeredAngler]

Coming soon!

[@orosalsero]

You can fix the broken bandsaw blade by brazing it using silver solder, it's an easy process.

[@EngineeredAngler]

I might try it...I have the silver solder.

[@comfortablynumb9342]

I love the hinge idea using cloth. I wonder if you could do a cloth tail and fins? It might make the tail look amazing.

[@EngineeredAngler]

I have done cloth tails and they work but don't last.

[@nicksmith437]

Great stuff again Franco. Looking forward to seeing you next week. Do you do the density thing with swim baits or just bibbed divers. Cheers.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Both!

[@iJacker]

Your drawing and drafting skills are on point. Ever taught High School or college courses?

[@EngineeredAngler]

No...I had a team of young engineers working for me that grew up on CADD so they were my daily students on proper hand rendering. The dry erase board in my office was 6 feet long so you can imagine what that looked like....

[@pontoontri-hull156]

@@EngineeredAngler I work with engineers and use CADD daily. In fact, I draw all my lure templates in CADD because I'm not as talented with a pencil... well, pretty proficient with the eraser end! LOL

[@adamharris6178]

I've made a few cloth jointed lures, never with sail material, the one problem I've come across is the glue and uv resin being drawn into the cloth joint, they do become quite free after a bit of wiggling. Hoping you have more success with it than I have

[@EngineeredAngler]

That is my one big worry...

[@pontoontri-hull156]

Adam, I had the same experience with my segmented lure. Made it with a piece of small tie-down strap, which to begin with is already stiffer than cloth. I put masking tape over the strap while painting & clear-coating, and removed the tape before the epoxy set. But it still wicked up some of the epoxy. I spent a few day flexing the lure every once in a while to loosen it up. Sure wish I had some sail material then...

[@BobbyPettit]

Hi Franko, I have a bunch of Ophthalmic UV cured resin in clear and photochromic grey. I shut down my lens molding lab and no longer have a need for them. I have no clue as to whether they would work for lure making or not so I would like to send a bottle of each to you to try. If they are good, I'll make you a smoking deal on however much you want. Thank you. Bob

[@EngineeredAngler]

Sorry I don't think I can use it.

[@andrewholst4870]

what do you think about making hollow bodied frogs? not very hard and i don't see many lure-making channels doing those (other than Thai ones around here)

[@EngineeredAngler]

If you mean hollow bodied soft plastic frogs...I can't think of an easy way. I'm working on a two axis mold spinner that I think would work but, that is pretty involved.

[@andrewholst4870]

@@EngineeredAngler Here in SE Asia we just make a mold you can dip in latex rubber. If you skim through this video it will make sense, It's in Thai but you can get the basic idea kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5TZhZZjhbaNgsk if you have any questions/need translation you can just ask!

[@FreedomFishing]

Curious to know what you think of my silicone mold for my 7" worm. I made it in ways you said not to, but it pours amazingly. It's in my shorts section, and theres a video of me injecting it on my page. Curious as to why it actually works. I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos! And learn a lot, whether I use the info or not!

[@EngineeredAngler]

Injection molding and pouring 2 or 3 part casting resins are really different operations. Injection molding from the ends of lures is the common and usually the best arrangement. Especially if you have multiple castings in one mold. Thanks for giving me a chance to clear that up.

[@FreedomFishing]

​@@EngineeredAngler no, thank you for taking the time to respond! So what you mean is that if I want to make resin copies of my lures, I should make a side pouring mold? Should I even try with the molds I have, just to see first?

[@pmpkmc]

Hi Franco, I have a question for you. Last year i made a couple of molds for spooks. One of them is pretty large maybe 5.5-6" long and 1.25-1.5" at its widest i make a through wire harness and hot glue a SS straw/ ball bearing rattle and 5-ish grams of weight in the tail. The issue i run in to is the wire harness/rattle/weight is so heavy i have trouble to keep it centered in the mold. Normally i just put it together and then try to manipulate it through the sprue before pouring the resin. Once i get the hook on it its pretty stable in the water but without the hook it will certainly lean to one side. I was thinking to make a new mold just to make some internal supports or something then i can use those to center the harness, i was hoping you'd have some other ideas on how to approach it.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Sorry to ask an obvious question but...why use a through wire on a cast lure when you can cast in a fixed harness? Not being smart...just really cureous.

[@pmpkmc]

@@EngineeredAngler . No problem, that was a bad description. Its actually a fixed harness that is cast in to the lure, i was just struggling to find the right words. I bend it up, install the weight and rattle then place it in the mold, put the mold together and fiddle with it to center right to left and then pour the resin.

[@Schmidy76]

Not that could've done better but check out how marlingbaits cuts his jointed baits.

[@EngineeredAngler]

Yes...he does it with a magnetic jig and does a nice.

[@lakemonsterlures]

Franko, I’m interested to know what your thoughts are on top water frogs. Specifically I’ve heard from many anglers that the legs of hollow body frogs should be trimmed down, with one being left longer than the other, so that they will “walk” better. Is there any truth to this claim? Thanks

[@EngineeredAngler]

Maybe but I doubt it will make more of a difference than just cutting them both down as short as you can stand to. Both legs short really does improve WTD action but, Its still not that easy to do.

[@devantechapman7134]

Hello!! Does anyone know what ruler or trace device that was used for the curved outline? Great content!!

[@EngineeredAngler]

They are ships curves, I used to play around designing boat hulls. But you can pick up some french curves .

[@lightsnsiren79]

Is there any reason not to use red or white cedar for lure builds? They both smell pretty strong, but I’m guessing camphor laurel does too…

[@EngineeredAngler]

Yes camphor smells the shop up like Vick's vapor rub. No reason not to use any cedar. Choose the wood that accommodates your design best.

[@pontoontri-hull156]

Josh, I am currently building a solar-powered, top water, Cicada lure from cedar. It is and extremely soft wood, way softer than the pine I normally used. Since it is so soft, the only power tools used was a scroll saw to cut out the blank. I have a mild allergy to cedar and can smell it while carving and hand sanding, but it has only been a faint smell that isn't bothering me. One factor may be that it is 40 year old wood that was salvaged from a remodel project. Newer timber may have a much stronger odor. The cedar I am using is super light and floats well, so it is great for lure making. I forgot to weigh it for specific gravity before beginning this build, but on a 2.5 inch lure with the solar panel and vibrating motor installed, it only need one more gram of lead to make it float the way I wanted. I also used it to make a top water Jitterbug lure with a brass bib. Definitely give cedar a shot to see if it works for you.

[@philipcochenour5223]

I have a question how can you keep your paint from coming off the foiling when you do mesh scales. Also when you use mesh for scales should you blow dry it before or after the reveal

[@EngineeredAngler]

I blow dry the pain before I pull off the mesh.

[@philipcochenour5223]

@Engineered Angler Lures I did that and it stuck to the mesh and pulled the paint right off the foiling

[@timmyfontenot7104]

Please let me know why you do not like angel cut’s. I have yet to make a malty piece lure. But I see a lot of bait builder use angel cuts. I would like to know with is better

[@EngineeredAngler]

They limit the movement of the pieces too much. And they tend to be noisy.

[@lightsnsiren79]

Could you paint it after hardware and the hinge are in? Hold it in tension by the eyes?

[@EngineeredAngler]

Yes but but keeping the fabric hinge from getting stiff from the paint and clearcoat is my worry.

[@pontoontri-hull156]

@@EngineeredAngler That is my experience. It takes a lot of flexing afterwards to regain only some of the flexibility if it wicks up too much epoxy.

[@mr.bluestone954]

Do you sell your lures? If so, do you have a website?

[@EngineeredAngler]

I'm afraid I not selling any lures for now. Thanks for asking though.

[@lureup9973]

It’s gonna get bit!

[@EngineeredAngler]

lets hope!

[@pontoontri-hull156]

I'm still subscribed to your channel Todd!!! And check it every once in a while...

[@lureup9973]

@@pontoontri-hull156 thanks!.. I’ll be there soon

[@giulianoaireti5943]

I don't know why, but KZbin decided to unsubscribe me from your channel...🥲 How dare YT!!!

[@EngineeredAngler]

Well thank you for coming back!