Making a Brown Brocade Vest // Princess Seam Waistcoat

[@bookhoarding]

"It's the fabric playing tricks on you." Needs to be a footnote in all patternmaking classes.

[@moonbasket]

So sparkly!

[@sallythekolcat]

you mentioned saving the lining to last... i almost always do the lining first, because it's one last chance to find a fit issue before it will be seen. I've also been known to use the mock up as a 'fashion' fabric to the lining, if it needs body to try on. (more then one of my projects has a mockup interlining when i decided i liked the extra body, at least in parts.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

This definitely makes sense if you're working with a pattern you are less certain of! Luckily everything I make from my basic blocks always fits the same, so nothing ever gets dramatically out of hand 😅✨

[@samh.3421]

Tricksy little button technique. I love it.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

No one wants to make that many buttonholes anyhow 😂✨

[@RosalieJordan]

Bianca, thank you for accompanying me on a Saturday morning tidy up. I have tried to watch this video 4 times already but, at 9 months pregnant, any time I get cosy I fall asleep and your videos are always so calming I couldn't risk sitting down to watch. I'm a complete novice sewist and learn so much... When I can keep my eyes open. Here's hoping baby finds your voice as soothing as I do!

[@FilomenaJackStudio]

You are my hero! Thanks for this lovely video!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@chrissihr1031]

The gold blouse you’re wearing in the intro to this video is stunning, too, btw!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@sarahlongshore2605]

The buttons were the perfect touch ❤❤❤❤

[@julietokumaru3855]

Very nice. I love a good vest. When they fit well they can really be a joy to wear. My kids took me on a shopping spree to Mood in LA! It was wonderful! They remembered you and your recent visit. We had a great time talking about you and your channel and how much we all have learned from you. It is such a small world sometimes. 🥰

[@damogranheart5521]

What a great Christmas treat! Wow! Mood is on my bucket list!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

That is wild to me!! I hope I made an okay impression there after having been in a car all morning ha!

[@kobaltkween]

I would love to see a mini series with Bianca and Tim Gunn.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I would be thrilled 🤩

[@brookehi]

WOW I'm new to your channel and I'm so impressed! Thank you for taking the time to film and voice over your projects, I'm sure it's very time consuming. I love watching the entire process from start to finish!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Brooke!

[@JessicaGenadry]

Bianca, are an a shapeshifter and I mean this the best way possible. You look you so different according to the hair, makeup, clothes, you style and it’s really cool to see.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jessica!

[@alexandriadouillette]

The whole thing is impressive, but it's the "oh I'll add one eight of an inch to the other side of the bodice because I smoothed the apex, making that line longer" that got me this time. Anxious me has to check 23214 times and still worries. To see somebody secure in their abilities and skill is just delightful to see 🥰

[@melscofield2758]

u are so talented how do u not have more subscribers.......🥰

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@CeliaCase-q6z]

Taking just a minute to thank you for your entertaining and informative videos. The past couple years have been tough for our family and I've often found refuge in sewing. I've learned so much from watching your videos and they are always enjoyable too. I always enjoy seeing how you draft different looks and your tips are such a help (clip those curves, set in that zipper, bone that placket, draft a facing, all the little details we forget or never even think of...) Keep up the great work! Looking forward to seeing what you create in 2024 and to making some new challenging projects myself. Fun to watch someone else who loves to sculpt in fabrics, and learn along the way.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you so much!! ❤

[@shawna2boys716]

❤ GORGEOUS ❤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Shawna!

[@CaptainStitchyPants]

Oh, beautiful! I'm a sucker for copper, it's my favourite metallic, and who doesn't love it with teal?

[@damogranheart5521]

My little sister looks stunning in those colors. I wish she would wear them more often.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@renataravensong]

Gods, I would wear this pattern myself. :D

[@alexandriadouillette]

Bianca, I really enjoy your videos - just coming here to be in awe of not only your dedication, willingness to sit down and film and edit the process to share it with (the often overly critical and vile internet) but also because your process is so clear and logical to me with the combination of your inner monologue and the visuals. It's really soothing and feels very satisfying - even though of course I've done nothing to contribute to the garment - and usually ends with me feeling like I can conquer the world now. Or sew an outrageously difficult garment with individual alterations to the pattern, which I did at the beginning of the year as one of my first projects. Where I found the nerve to dare? Pretty much: here. So thank you, so much. I've only known your videos for a year but they feel like home to me. Like this would be me in full bloom in an alternative timeline, where creative novel writing was less important to me and I would hyperfocus on sewing instead.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you so much! ❤ I wish I had more time for writing fiction, so it's all a balancing act 😂✨

[@marathorne6821]

I'm not a slave to fashion by any means, but the recent revival of the waistcoat has definitely piqued my interest. I've made four so far, and am shortly going to sew a fifth. Mine are simpler in style than yours (I'm no way as competent or confident as you are) but I did draft myself a princess seamed pattern for them which works really well. It was fascinating to see how you went about creating yours, which of course has turned out beautifully 😍 Thanks for being a constant source of inspiration 🙏

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Mara! Long live the waistcoat!

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Lovely!! I love the life back of the buttons being an illusion! I love the look of a million tiny buttons but not the thought of making that many button holes! The vest is so lovely!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Robin! Yeah no one wants to make that many buttonholes, no way mate 😅😂✨

[@gleann_cuilinn]

I like using silk taffeta (or cotton sateen to be cheap) for linings because they're smooth so they're easy to wear but their slight stiffness makes them easy to work with.

[@michellecornum5856]

I totally did not expect the hooks. Gorgeous and Magnificent!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Michelle!

[@simonemacandrew]

beautiful collection piece!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Simone!

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

My favorite part is seeing how you sculpted the neckline, but the whole video is outstanding. Thank you!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! I can't stop using this neckline 😅😂

[@molnotmole3428]

I wish I could pull off vests, but watching you whip this pattern out will soften the blow

[@catherinerw1]

I'm a recent convert to understitching by hand... yes it can take a while, but you can get into much fiddlier bits than with a machine! (Thinking coats/jackets with a 360 degree facing).

[@marcco44]

Ms. B thannx for a great year of videos, look forward to 2024!!😃

[@deenormus1975]

I love ur videos. U are incredibly easy to listen to, follow & watch. And ur insanely cool.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@tiffanytomasino335]

It turned out lovely! I’m particularly partial to vests (though I realized recently I own very few). I genuinely enjoy the way you talk us through your steps and the fun little asides. Thank you for sharing ❤ (also you look stunning in gold!)

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Tiffany!

[@debbiesnyder4778]

Beautiful. Just stunning

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Debbie!

[@Ms-RAZ]

Genius with the buttons! Love this piece. Well done!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@arvettadelashmit9337]

It looks beautiful on you.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Arvetta!

[@damogranheart5521]

This is my Happy Place, where I can enjoy the company of like-minded people😊 An excellent visit today! I know from watching you why my vest felt uncomfortable. I needed that shoulder expanded a smidge, and the armhole lowered that same smidge. I always ended up unbuttoning the dang thing, which ruins the whole look! Thank you for opening my eyes! You looked quite wonderful today, and I hope that this finds you well and happy. Happy New Year, Everyone!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@damogranheart5521]

@@TheClosetHistorian 🖖📚🫖🐈‍⬛

[@frannygrace2191]

Beautiful--and you did a wonderful job as always! I love watching your projects, it always gives me ideas and just listening to your beautiful voice relaxes me.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@martane665]

I pray the New Year finds and keeps you well.

[@Braisin-Raisin]

As always, very informative and terrific. Have a great year 2024!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@deborahhouse9569]

Lovely. I’ll try this one.

[@AuthenticWe]

I love rayon bamboo viscous material... Remember it is machine washable if washed before cut into.... And I'm with others I actually duel process sewing the lining and outer parts at same time for saving on Order of operations because my sewing corner and ironing station are literally on opposite sides of small house due to space restrictions 😕😅

[@Calhorsey]

Fantastic! Love it. Don't stop doing what you're doing.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@paulamiller8386]

Love it. I need to make one for work.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Paula!

[@creepycutiecrafty]

Such a beautiful waistcoat! The texture of the fabric really complements the sculptured shape of the garment. I love the button details on the front - such an elegant detail.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@annlidslot8212]

Hi, Thank you for an entertaining half hour of lurex brocade vest. Yours, Ann

[@juniperjr2017]

That brocade fabric is perfect. I love vests! I've been wanting to try the princess seamed version.

[@mariannerady1137]

such a beautiful piece!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Marianne!

[@plushieangela]

Bianca...make a card version of your skirt block pattern (handy reminder)

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Hehe, every time I see you in one of your finished garments all I can think of is "where can I buy hip spring like that?" (I am built like a brick with boobs and have noticed when I pad things out for silhouette reasons, I'm constantly running my "padding" into things I don't normally bump into). And I love that button trick.... and boning in a placket, I may have to try that idea too. I can't wait to try another vest/waistcoat, I've already made one from my princess bodice block and used that bag lining technique and it worked fabulously, but I need to figure out the peplum part so I can put pockets low enough to pretend to be my hips rather than up on the ribcage, making me look even thicker through the middle. I like doing linings first as a mockup, but I guess you know your pattern so well that you don't need to bother. And I think that interfacing was the right thing for that garment, it really looks sculpted. As much as I hate wearing asymmetrical clothing myself, I'm looking forward to seeing you do a one-sleeved garment. I've been collecting upholstery silk when it goes on sale so I'm thinking of maybe trying some of that for the next time I want to make a lined garment where I don't want cotton catching on things since where I order online it's hard to gauge the drape and feel and slipperiness of something and if I'm wearing a thing all day I want natural fibres... I've got some rayon remnants but who knows if it'll be enough... I found this cute flannel on discount that reminded me of you, it's got snakes and bugs on it! Though the grey background colour is not something I think will look great on you. I'm not sure what I'll do with it but I'm sure it'll be fun!

[@LenaTate]

Gorgeous!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lena!

[@cwbrownCaroline]

Have a Happy and Prosperous New Year complete with a dream home! 🍾🎉❤️❤️❤️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Caroline!!

[@ategetho]

Amazing as always! I was struggling with a plain weave lining today, and there will definitely be a lot of cursing sewed into this coat! But I love the waistcoat and will now forever look for a twill weave lining!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Yeah linings really need a little something extra going on in the weave or they are like trying to sew with a liquid 😬

[@gerileemakes]

I have been looking for a vest tutorial from a bodice block all week! I did find you ones but either they weren't quite what I was looking for or they were too complicated. Your instruction style has improved so much over the years and you've really found you're groove :)

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@Hippiechick11]

I really appreciate how you work on and explain your patterns as you work them. I especially like the arm eye. I've always wondered about how that works.

[@damogranheart5521]

I must have missed that. Arm eye? I will have to watch this again tomorrow night and see what that means!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Alas this is a word I forget not everyone knows 😅 "Armscye (also spelt arm scythe and pronounced 'Arm's Eye') is a Scottish term in origin. It refers to the armhole opening in a garment and is also the tailoring term for the pattern shape used when constructing the armhole."

[@Hippiechick11]

@@TheClosetHistorian the spelling I didn't know. Or my memory from the 1 costume class I took in college has faded.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

It is a very weird word so it's super fair!! @@Hippiechick11

[@katelafontaine7119]

when I made my list of sewing projects I'd like to accomplish for 2024, I have a notation that just says -waistcoat (many?), so apparently 2024 is my Year of the Waistcoat. I will master the Princess seam this year as well!!

[@teresababinat6004]

Beautiful

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Teresa!

[@zvezdoblyat]

One day I'll find the courage to make my own bodice block. I'm afraid that it simply can not be as easy as you make it seam (ha), so cowardice has me gripped in it's cold, trembling hands.

[@Hippiechick11]

If you have a basic pattern that you have found to work for you in tge past, that would make a great start.

[@sinndymorr6358]

I am a coward as well. I am in awe of this project but know my skill level is lacking.

[@armedvsokord]

You can do it! I believe in you.

[@Hippiechick11]

@@sinndymorr6358 just one step at a time.

[@damogranheart5521]

​@sinndymorr6358 I recommend making a mockup using old sheets. When the mockup looks good on you, you know the block is spot on. I really wish you great success on your sewing endeavors! Sew on!

[@MsHedgehog]

Beautiful! I love the doublet look of the vest. I saw Nicole Rudolph make a lined garment ackording to historic methods, more or less, and she left a lining construction seam partially open to be able to turn it out instead of an edge seam. Seemed a nice way to do it, your opinion? Would tear away stabilizer work for making lining fabric less of a pain to work with? At least in the main construction? Or spray starch? I was thinking to stabilize the fabric before marking and cutting out the pieces. I have not seen it done before and wonder if more experienced sewists know something I don't 😶‍🌫

[@damogranheart5521]

Those are very good questions! I do hope that she has the time to answer them cause I'd like to know myself!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! You can definitely leave a lining seam open instead if you'd like for most things, it's just personal preference really. I don't know if it would work for sleeveless stuff though as I have never tried it! I don't use anything like spray starch in my work becuase most of the time I'm working on garments that I will never plan to wash. If anything I'd spot clean or dry clean sparkly brocade stuff. Polyester/lurex is technically machine washable, but silk/rayon linings less so, and I fear snags and things getting too misshapen. I wear underlayers that can be easily washed instead, and then dry clean things a few times a year if needed ✨

[@alexandriadouillette]

The part about "putting off cutting the slippery lining" BOY OH BOY I just remembered my first time working with that, on an important (to me) project and due to hyperfocus in all my available free time, I was overworked from work AND myself and then the lining wouldn't hold tailor's chalk markings and boy. I just went ahead and clocked in for a mental breakdown. 💀💀

[@birdandcatlover5597]

Oh, THATS what my book had meant by converting darts Okay, i need to try designing my vest pattern like this now. I originally had attempted to modify how a corset goes together (corset was easier to fit than a vest….)

[@DJ_scream_evil]

Can you make a long winter puffer coat in that shiny material you use? I've never seen one before. A shiny taffeta puffer winter coat would be absolutely amazing.

[@DAYBROK3]

bianca i have lucked into several meters of georgio armani brocade. i want a blazer style coat out of it. it is gold and grey large flower brocade. i am so intimidated by it but at some point i will make it i dont know what lining. i also picked up some grey/silver plain weave as well which goes with the brocade so well.

[@damogranheart5521]

I'd recommend a mockup first. That way, you will not experience severe angst when you pick up your amazingly sharp scissors and bring them over to your cutting space. I wish you great mockups and even better garments!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Ooo that must be most wonderous! Armani works with stunning textiles!!

[@agcons]

I wonder what your teachers would say about my method, on fabrics that can be moulded with steam, of trimming the allowances of an inside curve fairly close then stretching the raw edge with steam and the point of an iron? It works best on wool flannel or crepe, and the allowance should be a little less than 1cm wide. A little bit of practice will make one an expert at how much to stretch the raw edge, and the allowance sits nice and flat once the piece is turned. It works in reverse, too: an outside curve can be shrunk at the raw edge. There is a limit, of course, but for princess and collar seams it works very well. On really sharp curves, not quite so much, so I clip those (as little as possible). Yes, I know: marks off anyway.

[@damogranheart5521]

You are still worthy to be loved because you shared what works for you. So there!😊

[@fbxn]

That sounds like proper tailoring! Parallel universe to sewing, but more communication between crafts is always very enriching. Sometimes one or another way of doing things is purely due to tradition. Tailors should discover the worth of pins for exemple, we take them for granted and we couldn t live without them, but they have to baste everything, or just hold pieces together while on the machine.

[@agcons]

@@fbxn It probably is a tailoring technique: I certainly didn't invent it but I no longer remember where I would have read it. It was more than 30 years ago. I never really basted very much, and I use many fewer pins than I did when I started: I find they slow me down. I have become pretty good at just holding the fabric, but only co-operative types like wool flannel or crepe.

[@plushieangela]

the rayon I have is like a more opaque softer chiffon, and the modal I have is like a euphorically soft cotton. I wonder if they're a blend

[@damogranheart5521]

I'm not sure, but I thought modal was a bit beefier.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

The fiber and the weave both have a part to play in any textile, as they can make a thousand types of threads from any one fiber after all! They often cut thermoplastic fibers into shorter lengths to mimic cotton for example. So rayon (and modal, and lyocell...) can feel all sorts of ways by the time the textile is finished, which is of course also magic ✨

[@VictoriaPL]

Video idea: the maintenance you do for your machine(s)

[@damogranheart5521]

That is on her playlist, I believe.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Alas very little and therefore not enough for a video 😅 A few drops of oil in the bobbin swisher thingy whenever I can remember!

[@mariannerady1137]

could you share how you created and re-create that backdrop of yours? Is it in your apartment? It looks so cool!

[@lynn858]

There are some videos on that! At least for the graveyard, spaceship, and the cyberpunk versions. It's mostly the same bits getting reused. And the whole thing is in a basement apartment, with annoyingly low ceilings. :) Absolutely amazing!

[@damogranheart5521]

​@@lynn858I know! Her sets are incredible!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

The set first appeared several years ago now, and it's creation was chronicled in this video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYKkk4h-oJ6WibM

[@CaroMary07]

😻😻😻

[@desireeturcotte3187]

😃

[@cyrusunderscore7315]

Not to say that i dont love seeing the process of turning the bodice block into the pattern you want, cuz it is very fun to watch, but i feel like you nearly always turn the two darts into a princess seam. Why not just make blocks for a princess seam bodice? Is it best to start with the two darts every time?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Only for this particular collection, I use darts all the time! Plus I do a different princess seam lines for each design, sometimes into the shoulder, other times into the neckline, sometimes into the armscye. I tend to use style lines more for jackets, and use darts more for dresses.

[@elizharber3564]

🧵✨

[@kimholcomb6943]

Would this look good on a plus size woman?

[@amber_kitty8782]

I accidentally sewed over a pin last month and killed my machine 😢

[@damogranheart5521]

Oh, my stars! 😮I'm so sorry to hear that. That must have been the pin from hades to have deep-sixed your machine. I hope that you can find an excellent machine that doesn't cost you an arm and a leg!

[@sdblaine]

*sad public transit in the US of A noises*