Making The Templates For The Side Deck Supports On The Bertram!

Probably not the fastest way of going about this, but it is VERY accurate!! Next week we should be able to cut, glass and mount the Coosa supports ;-)
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Thanks for watching!

[@AquaMarine1000]

To copy the inside profile of the hull use a piece of cardboard, a pair of scissors and a sharpie. Follow the profile with the barrel of the sharpie and allow the point to scribe a line on the cardboard held at a right angle to the hull then cut along the line - it's quick and easy. I hope this helps. Cheers

[@sandydaugherty458]

If you don't have enough VOC's drifting around the shop, try this: Spray a coat of PVA* over the surface the knee is to attach to. Then build up a 2" layer of cheap insulating foam. Insert some pop-sickle sticks in the still-soft foam to give it some backbone. Let it harden and pull the whole glob off and carve a _flat_ surface off one side nearly perpendicular to the inside of the hull. You now have a very accurate profile to trace on to your Coosa board. Try using the 1/4" stuff and attach a glas flange to the inboard edge of the knee to protect people knees or to attach an interior wall giving you a void for storage or floatation. Cover the foam with glas and wrap a flange around the surface of the foam that formed on the interior surface of the hull to give yourself an easy way to attach the knee. This trick would have been great for building a span-wise floor beam under the foredeck. * If that roll of plastic sheet sticks well enough to the inside of the hull, it would simplify the process even more: no PVA, no cleanup, no shoulder pain from scrubbing from a prone position. Keep up your fine videos; I've learned something valuable from every single one.

[@davidneilson3508]

You do awesome work and I’m always looking forward to the next video. Many moons ago I used to spend weeks under J series racing sailboats fairing hulls,keels and rudders to make them as slick and smooth as possible. My boss would even have me install clear a lexan disk about the diameter of a hockey puck in the haul over the prop so they could make sure the collapsible prop was well, collapsed lol. I learned every trick of the trade back then on how to make a sailboat go as fast as possible. It was the coolest job I ever had.

[@Rspri10104]

I loved how the 2 knees fell out while you were explaining things. It cracked me up.

[@kevinhornbuckle]

Your children are going to turn out as plenty smart and kind. Nice work.

[@thomasdoerr2443]

Nice work. A simple suggestion: Use an Irwin Quick Clamp to hold your measuring stick/spacer block tool in place while you are taking your measurements.

[@stephenrankin2078]

A small torpedo level taped to the measuring stick would help it maintain 90 deg to the front board

[@combackiddd]

Awesome. I'm planning on doing something very similar to a 31' Bertram and I can't wait to see how you put it all together and solve the inevitable issues. Absolutely invaluable help. Thanks Andy.

[@ttownthomas]

I am working on an original '72 25 Bert right now. The deck cutouts (fuel fill area) were original and there were molded fiberglass almost structural panels there. They are shaped like this -> '''|___|''' if you are looking at the top profile and they attach to 2 screw holes at the top and the melamine side panels on the sides. They just float on the deck.

[@dinacaldwell7522]

So happy all the sponsor videos have now paid to get back to the Bertram

[@182436hike]

The cut out on the port side deck for the fuel filler hose and vent hose is original. I have exactly the same cut out. I own the same boat from the same year and am using your advice to restore it. Thanks, Andy

[@boatworkstoday]

If you have some time would love to see some pics! [e-mail] Thanks!

[@RBMawby]

To separate the men from the boys is one thing; to separate the pros from the rest is quite another... it takes, "Meticulous Attention to Detail." I am always impressed by your work standards as to what work you will accept in your trade. A pleasure to watch.

[@tonypope3436]

Hi Andy, would love to see you finish with gel coat instead of paint. More of a pure restoration.... Keep up the great work! Can’t wait for your next video!

[@dinacaldwell7522]

Tongue depressor sticks and tape can easily fix that template gap. They are invaluable with this kind of work

[@LifeOnTheHulls]

Congrats on the 100k buddy Andy, great job and major perseverance.Ross

[@boatworkstoday]

Your project is really coming along!! Great work ;-)!!

[@raybates3119]

I love this channel! Anyone who has a boat and does his own fiberglass work should subscribe!

[@VacFink]

A pair of home-made contour gauges (sometimes called profile gauges) could make simple work of this. Its essentially a flat stack of slide-able pins or rods pinched between a long horizontal that acts as a clamp. You could easily make one for this kind of work out of dowels, a couple strips of ply, and some wing nuts. You might need two, a small one for the under the rail contour and another for the hullside contour but they would be tools you could use over and over.

[@ELCADAROSA]

The LEDs around the deck are going to look great! I plan on doing much the same (LEDs) for the upper deck of my 1973 Luhrs. Not sure if I want to have them on the rear deck; plenty of lighting there already.

[@martyhandley4456]

Love it, saw a lot of great tricks here today, some new and some forgotten.....thanks

[@MrZachalewel]

Congrats on 100,000k

[@jeremyfernfrond]

Cardboard initial templates are nice and cheap. Easy to cut.

[@TheDecguy]

I haven’t had a chance to look at the deck knees in any of the original boats down here in Fla yet. It will be interesting to look at one now that you have started on yours.

[@tamaralee4108]

The vertical inboard sides of the gunnel aren't really supported. Once you have your knees in place you could add a horizontal brace from each of them out to the gunnel lower edge, which would brace the gunnel and add some stiffness. OCD wise, when you do the rigging, you will need two separate bundles, one for each engine, a third bundle for the boat wiring, and a fourth foot the steering hydraulic lines. That's what I did on my boat, you want it to look nice in case somebody decides to lay down on the deck, and look up under the gunnel. Greg

[@johnshoureas1629]

Makes you wonder about the quality and high cost of Bertram boats.

[@WreckDiver99]

Not just Berram's...I've seen this kind of stuff on all kinds of boats. Tiarra's, Sun Seekers, heck, I even saw some less than quality work on a 60' Neptune where it was "What the flying lip lock did they do here". As my boat mechanic said...if it CAN'T be seen, it'will be done as cheaply as possible.

[@Skyrmir]

Set up a table and use a jigsaw on the boat for cutting the template. It'll save you trips to the band saw. Of course that might be more useful advice if you weren't already done.

[@billiondollardan]

Hey that's smart making 2 templates before messing with the coosa. I'm still stunned at how much they charge for each board. It kinda makes you wonder if you could come up with a product that's got similar characteristics for a lower cost

[@robertalexander9931]

As always a great informative video. Thanks for sharing.

[@wb2pcv]

Way to go on the 100k! What about holes or openings of some kind in the knees-to-be for future cross-flow ventilation (plenty of ventilation now, I'm assuming you're going to enclose the sides) or to make things lighter?

[@boatworkstoday]

I'll be cutting those in for wire runs :-)

[@robertdean1344]

One tiny question, wouldn't a flat on the hull side spread pressure out vs a narrow flex at each leg? We have all seen the shadow ribs show through over time. Thx.

[@gotany1]

Hi andy love your videos, would it have been stronger to use a osculateing saw to make a cut in the timber already in place under the deck, and slide the deck supports in to the cuts.

[@robertdean3938]

I'm new so forgive my ignorance, on the top and against the hull surface wouldn't a flat give more distribution of support.? ( example top like a capital T) thanks

[@splash5974]

Always such a pleasure to watch your vids! Been following along for quite some time. I have a question... I just picked up an old project. Its a 1976 AMF Crestliner Crusader 775, I/O with Merc 165HP. On the starboard side where it meets the transom, the rub rail has end caps, i am missing this end cap...Port side has one. Any idea where i could start searching for this end cap? I spent the better part of an evening online,with no luck... Thanks for any help, you or anyone else can provide! Cheers

[@geneberry7114]

The struggle is real! OCD can be a good thing for fit and finish jobs. A couple times a third hand would have been useful with your spiling stick : )

[@leifpersson9192]

a other way to do it is to put a stick to a pencil so it gets L shaped, then just put a rough template beside the hull and put the pencil to the rough template and the stick to the hull and you will write a perfect line to the rough template.

[@cliveclapham6451]

Well-done on 100k sub's. Fink if you've got loads of that ply cutting into 2" strips and a hot glue gun might be an alternative?????? Still love your work and whatever float's her boat 👍👍👍👍 PS loved the magic trick towards end........jumping knee's👏👏👏👏👏

[@brianhof7599]

Love the face at 16:00

[@theotherfinnegan9955]

amazing there was nothing done like that during the build

[@pasche76]

clever

[@patmcdermott8547]

Is the hull symmetrical enough to carry the supports to the starboard side with minimal changes?

[@boatworkstoday]

not as symmetrical as I had hoped :-/ But not going to be too bad

[@ericmoody3944]

I was wondering the same thing.

[@br5498]

I hope the stbd side is a mirror...or close enough

[@trevormackenzie2525]

OCD should be called CDO, in alphabetical order, as it should be.

[@BobMuk08]

or ODC if you're Lysdexic

[@sumduma55]

There is a little easier way to scribe the hull on the supports. Especially when you are using scrap for pattering. Instead of using the square stick to mark lines then try to recreate the curves, round the end touching the hull to a dull point in the center and drill hole the size of a pencil or pen (whichever you want to use) in the middle of the other side. Insert the pencil and secure it with rubber bands or a dab of hot glue. Now keeping the stick straight as you did, run it up and down the hill a couple times with the pencil part tracing on the skin. Your arcs are already transferred and ready to be cut. You can do something similar under the rails but a regular compass would likely be large enough to bridge the gap so you wouldn't need to make a tool. You might need a separate peice of scrap and trace it onto the pattern after scribing due to space limitations. That should get you a tight fit top and side. Of course that fit will change if you laminate the coosa on the contacting edges. But that is essentially how I scribed an island counter's trim to a natural stone outside wall on our deck. It should be much different other than the amount of space spanning from the pattern and the hull.

[@johnkaveski7953]

just glue a level to your stick brother

[@robertschulke1596]

Frankly, 2x1/2” Coosa seems massive overkill for those supports. Single thickness should be more than adequate.

[@kevinfisher1345]

Scribing would have been so much easier then making all those lil tick marks every couple of inches. But meh looks like you got at least one side done.

[@glennconnon5321]

Why wouldn’t you use cardboard For your initial template? You wouldn’t have to keep getting in and out of the boat, cut everything with a utility knife, Use a stiff tape to correct your mistakes.

[@boatworkstoday]

Could have but all the cardboard I have is relatively small with lots of folds :-/ Plus I have a ton of the door skin from freight shipments that needs to get used up lol

[@glennconnon5321]

BoatworksToday “Free” Fabrication tools are the most valuable. I understand completely. I’m sure you only had to get out of the boat once. However I am terrible with wood. I would’ve needed multiple trips. Lol Fiberglass metal any other material I can cut it perfectly. Wood not so much. Something about cutting up a formerly living being.

[@dinacaldwell7522]

Oh crap didn't watch far enough you just used the stick. Sorry.

[@VW.907]

Template making, yikes.