Malawi 110. Fitting the A frame ball joint or fulcrum

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Britannica Restorations Ltd
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[@overnighter]

WOW! 2 videos back to back, right after few days of short break 👍 Thank you Mike

[@BritannicaRestorations]

More to come!

[@overnighter]

@@BritannicaRestorations great, looking forward to 👏👏👏

[@johnburgess7165]

I bought a 110 Td5 a couple of weeks ago. It lists replacing 'A' frame ball joint half way down a recent invoice. And now I know what it is 😊 Thank you!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good stuff

[@123Bilko]

Brilliant! Masterclass in replacing the 'A' frame ball joint. Yet another video to add to ones archive.👍👍

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Many thanks! Quite easy to do when there is no rust!

[@123Bilko]

@@BritannicaRestorations even easier when someone has been there before you!😊😊

[@ianhellyer1473]

Good going Mike. It's always nice to unexpectedly find a problem when replacing a part. That happened to me when the fuel sender failed in my Disco 1. No more air bubbles in the fuel. I need to do all the bushes and springs, the body is getting closer to the ground.

[@craig_chaznibond452]

I did this job with the tank in place and the car on the floor. I just cut the bolts off as they were so rusted. You made it look sooooo easy Mike!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It was the simplest I have done - this is so nice to work on rust free!

[@oczhaal]

So you can do that without disassembling everything on the floor ? The axle and the A frame can be linked that way for reassembly?

[@AllSortsOfStuff58]

Glad to hear you still like feeling bushes... 😉

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Indeed!

[@letsdrive3943]

Always a pleasure to see your videos Mike. Our Defenders are better for it.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks!

[@Etiennevisvang]

You make it look too easy! Always been scared of that one. Thanks Mike.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You can do it!

[@Rob-cz7lg]

Just recently did the a frame ball joint. What a bugger to tighten, no air gun, so long 30mm spanner with a 28mm spanner locked into the end and managed that way.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes the wobble joint is a Blue point one not like a UJ type that shatter

[@cvrse]

I've need to change my A frame ball joint and have been putting it off for ages as I thought it was going to be a big job. Might give it a shot now!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It is easy until you encounter rust!

[@cvrse]

@@BritannicaRestorations Definitely not expecting it to go as easily as yours!

[@squadmeta]

I’ve done plenty of those, that one basically changed itself. Lucky bugger!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes the bolts just fell out!

[@888johnmac]

crikey , Made that look really easy

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Indeed - very rare these days!

[@SalomaoFresco]

Hey hey. Glad to see how this is done, because, I've got to do it to my Disco 1 before MOT. Regards

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Best of luck!

[@SalomaoFresco]

@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks. Seeing how you did it, seems logical to unbolt the rear propshaft and while i'm at it replace the rotoflex also. 2in1 job. Got to order the parts and hoping the weather stays dry as i'm working outside. Cheers

[@DSouter1]

Hi Mike - Still following your endeavors with great respect - nice to see someone who actually know what they are doing . Couple of things I would like to say. 1. I have recently done the the door seals in my 1992 Defender 110 and used your 2 video's on how to do it as a reference which were of great help. Being down in the south of darkest africa it is not always easy to get the tools one requires - one tool in question is your pump gadget to hold the window glass in place so once again the african ingenuity had to come to the fore. I got the smallest bike inner tube I could find which pushed in between the door frame and the glass with ease and I connected it to my portable compressor and inflated it with that. Worked like a dream - you may want to pass this on if you haven't already. 2. In one of your videos you showed replacing a standard side repeater lamp(normal bulb) on a defender with LED front turn and side lights. I want to do the same but was wondering about the wiring as my landy doesn,t have side repeaters but the wiring diagram show it connecting to a green and purple wire - is it not possible to cut the green and red wire and just connect them in line - your input would be appreciated. PS - I'm glad it doesnt get so cold here I'd freeze my dangly bits off. Go well

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You can also use the Bike tube trick to find leaks in radiators! (cut tube and have the valve in the middle of the two pipes - pressurise and dunk the rad in water Yes you can hack into the green red- left and green white - right

[@dickyboyjr]

I tried to press one out with a machine mart press. The press has a permanent smile now 🤦‍♂️

[@BritannicaRestorations]

So the joint won!

[@denisscott1134]

Hi Mike 🤔 just saying hi and thanks 🤔 see you didn't get that hair cut 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Not yet!

[@vincentpoole7588]

Mike. 'Muriel from Malawi' is a classic case of a loose woman and a fun time ! Brings back memories of those Cape Malay' girls for the South African Fans. Thought you'd get the 45 degree high articulation fulcrum bracket, just in case the owner lifts her suspension and fits those alloy wheels with phat tyres ? V.

[@Defender110SLO]

Old one is easy to put out just cut the ears that holds the screvs. And you can hamer it out nees lot of force. Cheers Mike. 🥃

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes but time is money! OK if you are doing it yourself but when you are on the clock it is a different matter

[@Defender110SLO]

@@BritannicaRestorations Yes with that I do agree.

[@chrismiller9740]

Nice job. My 110 has a load leveler. I wonder if the load levelers are serviceable. Imagine the bottle on it has lost its pressure long ago

[@BritannicaRestorations]

They were a waste of time and are now obsolete - they are unserviceable and apart from the ball joint no internal parts are available

[@COIcultist]

Haynes manual speak *"Assembly is a reversal of the above procedure"* and if you believe that I'll tell you I have an 11" knob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Well, mine is 12 inches, but I never use it as a rule...... lol!

[@gazzafloss]

I've always wondered about that ball joint on the rear axle, it seems to me that it's over complication of a simple function. Other manufacturers achieve the same results with simple rubber bushings, that don't get "clunky"...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It does allow for the rear axle to move with greater travel and therefore keeping the wheels in contact with the surface driven on That said the Watts linkage on the D2 was quite good ( but I have never seen a D2 do heavy off road)

[@leighriley6277]

👍👍

[@gavhuddy]

Landrover Land 👌👍

[@nickboylen6873]

What do you reckon about the “adjustable” ball joints that have a screw in cap to take up wear, Mike? Not sure it isn’t a bad gimmick, as while it’d take up vertical play, radial play on the socket is still going to be there. What does the diff need, other than the collapsible collar?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I think a greasable joint is more preferred as I would have thought access to the adjuster is limited, and I would have thought the adjuster would be rusted up in no time Crush tube on its way!

[@RoverAddis]

Hey Mike could improper press of that ball joint cause alignment issues for the wheels?? My rear wheel one side sticks out

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It should not do so

[@ciaraserumgard5557]

Hi mike, my 1995 defender 90 NAS is a little different than your 110 RoW, the bottom nut 30mm is really being very difficult to remove! I had to modify my 30mm socket to allow it to fit. That bracket that holds the bottom ball joint/30mm nut is non-removal on my 90 NAS, no four bolts-it’s welded to the axle. I’ve removed the cotter pin, sprayed it with oil and driven around town hoping that will loosen it but nothing. Thinking about buying an impact wrench, 600 ft/Ibs torque to remove it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated 🥰

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It is very tight normally - an impact is usually the only way but needs a universal joint designed for an impact - the cheap ones in socket set will be destroyed!

[@tomjohns8498]

You sorted out which torque wrench yet

[@BritannicaRestorations]

wbtools.com.au/deflecting-beam-torque-wrench-1-2-drive-10-185nm.html Looking at this one as it has the range I need and is pretty tough

[@wammdriver]

Noticed the one you fitted was a sealed unit, when I bought my 86 ex-MoD 110 it had one with a grease n***le on it, it lasted 6 years and 200k of my ownership with a greasing every 6-7k. It failed a MoT and I stupidly didn't check what they replaced it with and the one they fitted failed the next MoT. They replaced it under warranty but the following year it failed again. I bought the one with the grease n****le on again and it lasted another 150k until I sold the Landy. Do you think it's worth the extra £30 to buy the version with the n***le ?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I fitted one to my 130 7 years ago and it has been fine

[@davidbosen9450]

Is the truck negatively affected by removal of the self leveling unit? My D110 still has it fitted but most A frame joints do not come with one.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Self levelling is a waste of time - was ok when it was brand new - now obsolete and even when you could buy one it was £1300.00!

[@husq2100]

David, I’m pretty sure it was only “County” trim that came with the Boge Load Leveller. If the LL is working fine, keep it as your spring rates are designed with it (they are different for LL and non LL equiped vehicles ). They can be rebuilt by specialists. Your A frame fulcrum attachment has the extra arm with cup.If you need to replace the ball joint you will have to press it out of your fulcrum and replace. If your vehicle is not your daily driver, you could remove it and take it to a workshop to get them to press out the old and in the new.