Testing PECO Streamline with Erbert Pukoband vs Märklin K-track

[@Blhitelikesnba2k]

Hi Martin ! Thank you for the test. To me the classic Marklin K-Track looks very nice and allows very nice & realistic layouts. It definitely not worth all the pain to try to switch to the Peco adapted system. Take care and all the best for 2025 !

[@vannizaniboni3502]

I'm happy to see you on KZbin again and that you're making a new layout in your new house in Göteborg.

[@MrMiketoase]

Great to have another video. Seasons greetings to you from Scotland.

[@marklinofsweden]

Greetings back to you Mike! 👍

[@markushodel173]

Always a pleasure to watch your videos 🤗👍🏻

[@billdryden6275]

Great video; techniques that are applicable to any scale, any location, even any continent. 😎😎 I have a suggestion for you as I watched you installing rail joiners ..... I made a rail joiner installation tool - I took a short piece of rail, about 4 inched and bent it vertically about 45° upward and about 1½ inches from the end. I slid a rail joiner onto the lower portion of the rail until it was about ½ of a rail joiner length back from the end. I soldered that into place, and fashioned a handle on the other end, the long end of the piece of rail. Now when I want to install rail joiners, I put a joiner on the end of the rail (the joiner soldered onto the tool keeps the joiner about ½ & ½ on the tool). The tool makes it very easy to press the joiner onto the track and will slip off the installed joiner rather easily thus allowing you to save your fingers from any sharp edges on joiners. I hope this makes sense; there's not a way to upload any pictures to your page that I know about. Although Atlas makes a joiner installation tool, I found that it being all in one horizontal plane made it difficult to use. My tool has the handle tilted up to near 45° and is much easier to use. I did find one video where a modeler was showing his joiner tool, I believe my soldered-on joiner stopper/'backstop improves on his idea. ( FYI - kzbin.info/www/bejne/opjOYailjLBjf5Y ) It is a "no-brainer" rail joiner installation tool that took me nearly 35 years in this hobby to discover ..... I have one for Code 83 and Code 70 track and now my fingers are sore after a track laying session. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@mariokramer6799]

Great tasting, many thanks!

[@cs512tr]

always love watching your videos and how-too's in December on my christmas time off, lovely and relaxing. love your work!

[@thierryprade6978]

Great workshop. Juste carry on and Big thx with sharing pour expérience. Thierry from south of France

[@sesamcave]

Thank you for this explanatory video. Amazing this contraption from Puko....

[@lbmsecundario9684]

Thank's for another great video. Using full beer cans as weight to push the track down is a very good idea. And the best advantage is that, as soon as the glue sets, you can always enjoy a beer one after the other...

[@krisdesaedeleer4357]

That's a good idea 😅😂😅

[@antonionunes9525]

😂😂😂😂

[@svenjensen9770]

I don't know how you get these cans keeping their Content... 🤔

[@Bem550TV]

Hi, Nice try, I was not aware of Erbert Puko, but in my layout I recently use 60meter of puko from WeichenWalter with Peco track code 100, and its work quite well. But 1m of track need time to build. to avoid any electric miss, I wire quite often. For the switches, I was scarry to finally get something not working so I'm still using Märklin K track switches. the combination of the two work well. Currious to see the next step of this built

[@michaelcudby787]

Yes, Iwas going to suggest that, as well. Using the Peco track then using the marklin swithes/points, as he seemed to have a problem only at the switches. Mind you, a learning curve & some perseverance could overcome the issues at the switches.

[@miguelfgimenezperez8519]

Gracias por tus vídeos, siempre se aprende 😍

[@victorpalermo5029]

gracias es brillante este canal!!!!!👍👍👍👍

[@pietersnackaert]

we have a whole club layout with puko's, all peco track with a custom developed system that detects shortages between rails so you can run 2 rail or 3 rail just not in the same block of detection.

[@lindaoffenbach]

That's a great test Martin. For 3rd party or DIY pukos to work properly on Peco track, the time needed for precision can be very extensive, especially on points / turn-outs. We have actually succeeded on peco express points which M simply doesn't have on offer for K-Track, however by using Pukoband full stop the question also comes to mind how much will it have an effect on the pickup shoe's endurance. The Pukoband looks sharp and rather abrasive really. We wouldn't recommend it either tbh. Cheerio.

[@herrkiwi3110]

My thoughts as well

[@anfieldroadlayoutintheloft5204]

great vid nice work

[@pruningharbour2017]

So... The Channel will not be renamed to Pukoband of Sweden? 😉

[@marklinofsweden]

Hahahaha! 😆 For sure not!

[@larsheydecke887]

Mycket intressant då har jag bestämt mig för k skenor 😊👍

[@Snowcanon]

Is it not possible to mix the two systems so you can have Pukoband on straight parts and Märklin in switches? Good test you done there (Y)

[@whatsups3045]

My thoughts too. Length of turnouts required is far less to “normal” rails. But how easy i Or difficult is it to correct these two different systems electrially?

[@eugenb.8448]

I am so pumped to watch you create this new layout. Are you going to discuss how you did the bench work in more detail?

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi Eugen! Yes, the next video will explain how I design and build the benchwork. The video building this first part was booked by Modelrailroad Academy, so if you want to see the construction works

[@eugenb.8448]

@ Awesome! I do so enjoy your videos. Informative and relaxing. Like watching Bob Ross :-).

[@lyndonfoster1090]

Thank you for the video. I had been wondering too. Sorry it didn't work out with the other brand but you will be happy with the marklin for sure. One unrelated item I saw that I'd love to have was your smaller, red, one-step wire slippers. Can you share the name of them. The ones I have are really too big for model use I think. I want to use them for not only track wiring but also lights and such and yours come to a much nicer point than mine for tight spaces. Looking forward to a great 2025 with your new layout!

[@gillesdidelot2280]

Thanks for the video. That's the same problem that I am facing on my new test track. One part should be done in Peco Code 100. For the pucos I will try them from Weichen-Walter.

[@marklinofsweden]

I heard that Weich-walter is better, but also more than twice as expensive, so the total cost exceeds Marklin original.. That is not a way I would like to go laying more than 100meter…

[@gillesdidelot2280]

@@marklinofsweden That's true, to keep the costs low, use a different product just for the switchs.

[@HighFell]

If you like the appearance of Peco code 100 in HO, code 75 is even more pleasing. I’m in TT:120 which Peco do in code 55 and it looks fantastic. I’m always amazed Märklin have continued so long with their 3 rail system. Were you ever temped to switch to 2 rail?

[@mooglesmodelrailways]

Informative video Martin, thanks. I'm sure that the system can work with a lot of fiddling around but by the time you factor in the cost as well you are probably not saving much in terms of cost. I guess it all comes down to to fussy someone is about appearance and if they want the hassle of having to fiddle around a lot.

[@flyingcircus1263]

Hallo Martin, thank you for this video. Nice to see, how to be going on your MoBa. But the KI-Translater is sometimes a little bit terrible. But, it is a nice attempt. Nice MoBa-Greating from Germany Jörg (sorry for my rusty english)

[@TONY_FEZ]

I find the same using Peco track even without the pukoband. The Peco looks great but in the end I went with Kato Unitrack because its works so well and if you are prepared to put the work in, it can look almost as good. The Peco joiners especially drove me insane as they so to fit (on N Scale anyway!).

[@pbyfr]

Kato Unitrack also has some problems. I need to rework both the N scale compact turnouts I have, they aren't at the same engineering level than the normal Unitrack. Only tested O16.5 Peco track, I wasn't impressed by their turnout, as I copied it 3 times, and all my copies perform better than the original.

[@marklinofsweden]

Wow! This information was very useful. I have limited experience with Peco really. Only assumed it would be much better, but then it sounds like I shift one set of issues to another.. Thank you for this feedback! 👍

[@diegodebunder4297]

Peco used to have their own stud contact strips for their track. SL-17 for regular track and SL-18 for turnouts, but It's no longer listed on their website.

[@alanpearce3487]

I always found the Peco strip to be an eyesore because of the way it is a flat strip bent to come up between the sleepers. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. I like the look of the Weichen Walter puko strips (which I see someone has already recommended) and they also have strips with higher studs for use in points. They also make their puko strips for use with other manufacturers tracks that have lower profile, such as code 75, I can't recall if they have a code 80 or 85.

[@dutchmodelrailroads]

As I might be moving home in a couple years, I’m slowly fantasizing about a new layout and what tracks to use. My current layout features C-track, but I hate the plastic look of the ballast and I don’t think it would be easy to add further layers of ballast on top of it… K-track is nice, but the dimensions are outside the NEM-spectre which will cause issues with my converted 2-track trains and wagons with Roco or Piko axles… Peco or Piko tracks with such a Pukoband solution always felt like an enormous hassle to me. The straight track seems doable, but my lord those switches… I couldn’t stand having to troubleshoot short circuits on every switch I lay. Luckily I still have some years to think about what I’d want. Thanks for the helpful video, as always ;)

[@thomasspirgi8135]

Would you mind sharing how you created the background? It looks amazing. Thank you.

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi! I ordered it from either Viessmann or Auhagen. It’s low cost paper backdrop

[@thomasspirgi8135]

@ thank you!

[@HansVGinkel]

The background is Vollmer 46106

[@railsuisseromande]

Nice video. Have you tried the Puko from Weichen Walter ? They seem a bit better than the one you tried

[@wanndanneisenbahn]

Great video. My first question, is the extra labor worth the cost savings? Then i got to the end of the video. I am still learning patience. Lol

[@dlwestphalen]

I will start building my new bench work in a few months. Although you said it is an easy task, some tips would be nice 😊. For instance, how do you connect the shadow station level, and others. Thanks!!

[@muir8009]

Thing is Martin: the continued use of 3 rail is due to its supreme functionality and reliability. I feel that products like the pukoband are stepping away from functionality to accommodate a more prototypical appearance, however surely a major aspect of a model railway is its ability to function reliably like the prototype? A train that keeps stalling, derailing or is just plain cantankerous on nice looking 2 rail track for me is considerably more undesirable than an electrically foolproof, reliably working 3 rail system.

[@corbasse2929]

What about mixing and matching with this new solutions for regular track and Marklin for turnouts?

[@marklinofsweden]

Maybe.. The Erbert system with center contact every 3rd tie make more noice than Marklin system with center contact in each tie. Like this: ”Click e ti click e ti click e ti click”

[@corbasse2929]

I see, that’s definitely a deal breaker as well.

[@macnavi]

@9:55 you are actually pressing one of the fishplates UNDER the track. I don't know if you already figured that out. Doesn't help to run a reliable test of the Pukoband.

[@earlfreeman93]

To anyone who could answer this question is it possible to make the pukoband yourself for modeling 0n30 and 1:24n15 microlayout display stands for locomotive model, so you can three rail chassis in the build of them.

[@alanpearce3487]

You could do so. The Weichen Walter puko strips are etched nickel silver, done the same way as etched brass wagon and loco kits. So it would be 'just' a case of coming up with a suitable master to apply the mask to suitable metal sheet and then etching it in an acid bath or whatever is the preferred etching solution.

[@ManuelPalaciosar]

I love your videos, but even more when we have the Spanish audio options.

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi Manuel, I got s notication from KZbin that all new videos published will now come with a real-time audio dubbing option, meaning that you should be able to watch every new video with spanish spoken voice. I know it’s not available on all types of devices. Give iy a try and let me know how it works! Best regards / Martin

[@1AngryPanda]

You can blend it together? On straights the band and in switches the k track?

[@rl7881]

Just wondering what you will do with all those cans of beer, once the track laying is complete!!!!!

[@Setola]

I like the idea behind the pukoband... the lack of functionality is really unfortunate. But anyway thank you for these tests. Is there any other way to make a marklin track looking more prototipical? for example having a larger radius points?

[@marklinofsweden]

They have turnouts with really large radius (for Marklin that is): 902mm. I will use those along all of the main line

[@jochenkraus7016]

@@marklinofsweden Is it possible to isolate the pieces of track in the turbouts that and switch them to a different polarity depending on the position?

[@thetrainroom]

You need to polarize the switches, so you don't need to have the studs every close to the rail: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5CWhJmFm8mnlZY Drawback: A lot of cables.

[@JeffsTagtripp]

I don´t think thats going to work because the wheels will short circuit the isolated track anyway. Thats why Marklin swtiches use plastic pained rail for that part.

[@rwegert]

Great Video again Martin! Perhaps its an alternative to mix, only use Peco for parade and longer stretches of track, thereby it's not all lost in cost and effort.

[@roulernbleu4532]

I was going to comment exactly this! 😊 ​@@rwegert

[@thetrainroom]

@@JeffsTagtripp We have it in use since 2019 and we had thousands of train passing over it. I would only use it, if you want to use a switch type which is not available from Märklin. If you don't want to do that yourself, there is still the possibility to buy from "Weichen Walter".

[@alanpearce3487]

@@JeffsTagtripp If you have problems with wheels shorting between the studs and rails then sleeve the stud with some fine heatshrink sleeving so the wheel cannot contact it. This is especially a problem on C-Track with the points with large radius turnouts.

[@thomasmalmqvist4936]

Går ju massor av öl! Har du kört Jeco lok genom Märklins K räls växlar? Erfarenhet?

[@marklinofsweden]

Jeco-lok på 3-räls är alltid en utmaning. Funkar i normalfallet aldrig. Alla lok måste modifieras i strömupptagningen.

[@c-wolf]

Will the K-Track look better if you remove some of the middle notches? Like filing them down every odd number of sleeper to make it more appealing or filing them all down to get them lower

[@marklinofsweden]

Filing them is a bad idea for the functionality. Removing some will increase noise from slider and create problems for locos with short slider. Also, removal is time consuming activity, so absolutly no.

[@tolkamp1911]

Is switching to Trix an option? You’d have no center rail at all.

[@kutzancoita6341]

Could you use peco and pukoband for staight and marklin for points?

[@marklinofsweden]

I wasn’t all that happy with the pukoband performance and the different height of each puko created more noice than the Marklin K-track. A annoying click-e-ti-click type sound.

[@HenrikSweden1]

interesting video. one small detail, if you paint the tracks before ballasting you will have ballast that looks like new. for new tracks. And you still have the option to add some more dirt to it later on if you want the tracks to look older.

[@jeffliick1690]

Didn’t know there were other options to Marklin track… too bad they don’t seem to work that well and involve a lot more work.

[@wamgoc]

So do all your locos have to be feed from a centre pickup? This is why you can't use Peco track? I live in UK and Peco is the track that I use.

[@marklinofsweden]

Yes, exactly like that. Peco Streamline is a fantastic track system, but doesn’t seem to work all that well with 3rd rail added

[@Uddevalla44]

Peco has their own system for 3rail, ever thougt of testing that?

[@phillipisley9693]

could you use both types of track? Peco for the straights and Marlin for the point work.

[@jochenkraus7016]

Maybe the difference is too obvious. But the Peco tracks might still be a solution for longer sections like the "Paradestrecke".

[@marklinofsweden]

I wasn’t all that happy with the pukoband performance and the different height of each puko created more noice than the Marklin K-track. A annoying click-e-ti-click type sound.

[@alechudson6492]

Do you know about Peco SL-17 Stud Contact Strip for Track OO/HO Gauge £3.85. This is made to go under there code 100 track for Marklin locomotives.

[@slowoz8444]

Der klare vorteil bei den Selbstbau 3 Leitergleisen ist das es die Code 100 Gleise auch in Betonoptik gibt. Falls diiese Optik gewünscht ist. Leider ist das Märklin K Gleis auch etwas in die Jahre gekommen und könnte seitens Märklin mal überarbeitet und mit der Betonschwelenoptik ergänzt werden. Vielleicht solltest Du mal das Pukoband von Weichenwalter testen.

[@herrkiwi3110]

For running characteristics why would you not look at Peco code 83 ? Also if you are using third party "pukos" what is the long term wear on your pick up shoe going to be like ? They all seem to have sharp edges to me.

[@marklinofsweden]

Hi! Correct me if I’m wrong, but Peco code 83 is designed based on US style ties and fittings. This will not look good on my layout

[@herrkiwi3110]

@@marklinofsweden Hi, Marklin C-Track pretty certain is code 83 and most modern rolling stock seem to prefer it. I guess it depends on taste. I run a mixture of K and C . If I was rebuilding I would definitely go the way of Sebb's 1zu87 concept. Hello from New Zealand.

[@alanpearce3487]

@@herrkiwi3110 Marklin C-Track is definitely Code 90, Trix C-Track is around Code 83 IIRC.

[@roydom5]

Does Peco not make their own solution for this scenario?

[@marklinofsweden]

Yupp, but it doesn’t look all that good and honsestly does not seem to be designed having much knowledge about the complexity about center rail..

[@roydom5]

@ shame, have you tried reaching out to Peco? Sounds like they could do with your expert advice!

[@RichardsMoba]

HI Martin, thanks for this idea for a different way of making Märklin track, a real shame that it does not work whatsoever..... I love using Peco tracks with a separate center rail. I have a center rail from another German small company which is easier to apply and has a Puko every 2 beams, it looks amazing and is slightly cheaper than the K-track. Perhaps you would have the time to take a look at it and see for yourself if this would be something you could use as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKvJgIWHltKImZo because the tracks will look so much better than the regular K-track. Kind regards from The Netherlands

[@RichardsMoba]

Also this short really shows what the "unfinished" track looks like, and how it functions with Peco turnouts. Do not give up that easily :) kzbin.infoNebSqpOTa2E?feature=share

[@marcorussotravelphotography]

mentre la serie c è facile da collegare semafori e altro come avviene nella serie k?

[@marklaidlay6842]

Why not use Peco code 75? The studs will poke up higher which might stop the contact with the rail.

[@jochenkraus7016]

It might case problems with the Märklin wheels.

[@marklinofsweden]

Code 75 is not an option with any rolling stock from Marklin. Wheel flanges will hit the tie fittings + code 75 is very demanding to assemble correctly. Not my kind of work. It’s more for the guys who like to build their own turnouts etc..

[@47606odin]

Looks like it would work better with Peco code 75, which is more prototypical than code 100

[@marklinofsweden]

Code 75 is a no-no with Marklin rolling stock. All wheel flanges hits the tie fittings. I would never consider code 75, due to the high demand for precision and complexity of assembly. It’s simply not feasable laying 100 meters of tracks.. It’s not me..

[@nesnduma]

Hello, you say that doing the workbench yourself is easy. I'll take your word for it: why don't you publish a video (or - better - a whole series) on how you design your workbench and how you build it, which tools are required, etc?

[@InterCity134]

Given that there is no web presence for Erbert at its given website names - I’m not sure id fully rely on the product even existing long term.

[@jochenkraus7016]

I think this band already exists for several years.

[@marka87]

Why are you using a 3 Rail system?

[@marklindownunder1755]

peco do a center Stud Contact Strip For Marklin 3 Rail (SL-17) I used it once and it works great.

[@marklinofsweden]

I know.. I didn’t like appearence of it though..

[@alanpearce3487]

@@marklinofsweden It certainly looks horrible, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

[@MegaTurbolol]

why not solder the wire running under the switch to the different pads? That could make the system more reliable!

[@johnDukemaster]

I call them "sleepers". Maybe you word is american? Nice work!

[@haukechrestin6994]

And “puko” in general stands for “punktkontakt”… 😅

[@jimmccorison]

Thank you. I was trying to figure that out.

[@BEIBECKERS]

I was tying similar things to improve the appearance of Märklin tracks, but at least with a lot of may track embedded in the road the appearance as well as the workarounds did not satify me and after 40 years of Märklin i changed to DC. Why couldn't they have the contakt pins / Puko inbetween the sleepers for the C track? Then a thin cover with gravel would have made it quite good. Or even a renewed K- track. However: like it is, Märklin is loosing the real enthusiasts. It's those, spandin much moeny and teaching their kids and grandkids the love for this hobby. Ig Märklin doesn't reakt, the will die one day. So dad: it wouldn't be too much efford to change the K- tracks pins between the sleepers and to add at least one flexrail to the C- system. This doesn't need to be used out of the box and requires a to-be-cut foam spacer. But with only advanced users doing this, it could ba a way out... Godd luck and wise decicions, Märklin. And NO - go on like it is in NOT wise...

[@marklaidlay6842]

I just looked at Marklin K track, surely there are more options than just the 2261 in straight turnouts. 64.6mm track spacing just looks toy like. I think I am following the wrong channel.

[@jochenkraus7016]

There also are longer ones 227xx.

[@marklinofsweden]

I think you should look again, because Marklin offers a full set of turnouts with 902mm radius curve, so it’s not so bad. The only thing they do miss, compared to PECO is a Y-turnout option.

[@jochenkraus7016]

@@marklinofsweden In an old Märklin Magazin, they had a description for wider curved turbouts. Cut away parts of the metal sheet for the middle contacts (so it's like a comb instead of a ladder shape) so the 227xx turnout becomes flexible to some extent. It was intendes to get a wider 2268/2269 but maybe it works into the other direction.

[@Casuarius2552]

Why not just use Trix? It functions and has a good look to it

[@DominusTerrae]

If all of your running stock is already 3-rail system, it's expensive to swap to 2-rail.

[@marklinofsweden]

Exactly so. And it’s not just the cost. Most of the items I have collected will not be released again in Trix during my lifetime.

[@herrkiwi3110]

Sebb ́s 1zu87 kzbin.info/www/bejne/ap62Z2eXmd2Mr68 7.20 in might help your decision making.