Robart Pin Hinge Installation - Model Aeroplane Control Surfaces

[@bobert6754]

Came here to see what glue i should use, left knowing some awesome tips i will definitely use! Use epoxy with plenty of work time, use a syringe for maximum glueage, use a soldering iron for perfect and sealed holes, heat up vaseline for hinge lubrication! Awesome video, my friend.

[@MarkRobinson555]

Thanks very much for the kind comment, so pleased you found the video useful

[@brucejacquesStick]

Great video picked up some great tips. About to use Robarts for the first time on the old classic sailplane Olympic II. Thanks.

[@MarkRobinson555]

Thanks for the comment, pleased you liked the video 😀

[@gb741]

Bridi "Trainer 60" was my first glow fuel build after building a few sailplanes. I flew it with an OS-61SF pumped pattern engine and it was a "Stump Puller". Flew beautifully. I still have the wing and after watching your video's I am temped to scratch out another fuse for it. I also use Robart "Hinge Points" almost exclusively for my builds as well. Quick, neat and easy and they look great too! Love your videos, thank you for sharing!

[@MarkRobinson555]

Thanks very much for the comment, you should definately build another fuselage! Really pleased you like the videos, thanks

[@ritchardwilliams3874]

Really useful video, lots of good ideas on the approach. I will follow your method on my models- many thanks. BRILL!

[@MarkRobinson555]

Glad it was helpful, appreciate the comment 😀

[@terryblackman6217]

Good morning Mark. I mostly use these hinges for all my models now. As you said they are very well made and I find them a lot easier to fit. Good tip on the melted vasoline.

[@MarkRobinson555]

Hi, good morning Terry, appreciate the comment, you have a good day. Its fine weather today up here so should get some flying done later 😎

[@antoniomonteiro7783]

Great tip indeed! Mark's videos always have great tips! In the spirit of contributing to the discussion, I must point to the fact that vaseline will start degrading plastics is left in contact for too long. It's good to use some isopropyl alchool to remove the vaseline after the epoxy is fully cured.

[@terryblackman6217]

@@antoniomonteiro7783 well I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip.

[@Tom-wl9sx]

Hi Mark, always learn something from your videos, good work 🙂

[@MarkRobinson555]

Hi Tom, thanks very much for your kind comment, its really appreciated

[@eduardoserrano5453]

Brilliant, great job sir.

[@MarkRobinson555]

Thank you very much, greatly appreciate your comment 😀

[@billjones3071]

Great build, thanks for sharing this information

[@MarkRobinson555]

Thank you very much, really pleased you are enjoying it

[@pinoyDIY72]

Its so nice video bro , i learn someways to build my own Plane….. subs ling time ago

[@MarkRobinson555]

Thanks very much

[@omarce39]

Excelente vídeo, cómo se llama la herramienta para centrar la bisagra. Gracias

[@MarkRobinson555]

Thank you very much, appreciate the comment

[@michaeldamico5152]

I didn't initially plan on installing the Hing Points when I was building my wing for the Astro Hog airplane, so in the center, sheeted portion of the wing there is one hinge (the most inboard one) that won't have the added "Balsa backup block" you installed to get a better grip on the hinge. For that one place, would it be OK for me to rough-up the hinge with sand paper so the Epoxy could adhere to the surface of the hinge better? Thank goodness SIG designed the wing with hinges about every six inches, and the one inboard hinge that has this situation (under the sheeting) is next to the Torque Rod end, which will be nicked with my Dremel Tool and glued into the Aileron about 5 inches away from the subject hinge. Let me know if you think there is low risk in doing this. Thank you.

[@vulturedroid9804]

My hinge process always includes multiple holes slots usually misaligned and lots of swearing haha