Marquetry and Veneer - An overview

[@bwint7234]

This is probably the most informative video I've seen on a professional marquetry process. Thank you so much for taking the time to put it together!

[@larryciesla]

Brad, thanks so much for the kind words. I sincerely hope you give it a try.

[@Finewoodworkingofsc]

Larry, thank you for such a comprehensive review of the packet method for making marquetry. I have never made a marquetry project, but I have Paul Schurch's DVD's and his supplies to make my first project. This video is a very helpful guide to what I've seen Paul do in his marquetry work. Thanks again, Larry, I appreciate you taking the time to make such a great guide for producing a marquetry project.

[@rolandkuhn9066]

Great presentation Larry can't wait to give this a try.

[@christophermassie3369]

Outstanding presentation Mr. Ciesla! I know what goes into making a presentation like this, and since there are no Affiliate Links in the description, I know you did it out of the goodness of your heart. My heartfelt gratitude for sharing so many important techniques, delivered with dignity and aplomb - no crazy heavy metal or pimply hyperbole's! Kudos! I am pondering making a round lazy susan for the dinner table and wondered if the typical beeswax/mineral oil finish for cutting boards could be used on veneered pieces? Also what size(gauge and length) pins do you typically keep in stock for your packets? You truly are a Master level woodworker and I am jealous of your beautiful shop!

[@larryciesla]

Christopher, thanks for the very kind words. I'm retired from a very good job so I have no desire to make money off woodworking. As long as the glue has fully cured, particularly if you're using either a cold-press glue or the urea formaldehyde I show in my video, you're safe to apply pretty much any finish you desire. As for the pins, I'm not too fussy, caring more about the length of the pins, and that depends on the thickness of the packet. I'm pretty sure almost any pins for a standard pin nailer would work fine. Good luck with your project. If this is your very first marquetry project, consider doing a "learning" piece first before you tackle something complex.

[@Doyledidit]

Great great tutorial, learned quite a lot and hopefully my grandsons will join me as well.

[@dbarr15]

Wonderful. Where did you get the wide veneer tape?

[@mikeemmons1844]

Larry thanks for this video, super helpful.

[@paulmurphy612]

Lovely. I was a student of Paul Schürch too.

[@smoleyhokes]

Excellent info. Do you actually have a video of the process being done? I'd love to watch your granddaughter do some cutting. She proves that it can be done by us oldies.

[@larryciesla]

I may make a video of the actual process this year. My granddaughter, by the way, is now a 20 year old freshman at NYU. But, I have taught marquetry to quite a few "mature adults" to do marquetry.

[@smoleyhokes]

@@larryciesla Well, this mature adult is 78. I took a class when I was about 72 but got high-centered with other scroll saw projects. Now I have a renewed interest.

[@gtukiole]

thank you, great insight into the processes

[@VaracolacidVesci]

Its an amazing video. But balancing veneer is a lie. You dont have to veneer both sides. Many many xv century furniture are veneered on one side only and it has not cupped or warped in centuries. This is just an old magazine myth.

[@larryciesla]

Thanks for the comment. I probably could have made the point of why you'd want to use a balancing veneer more clear. I tend to use mostly MDF which is a man made material. Unlike solid wood, or even plywood, MDF is inherently stable - except when you introduce any moisture. This is particularly true for the edges, but is also true of the faces. If you only apply glue to one side of an MDF panel, some moisture will permeate through the surface and cause swelling that will result in warping unless it is balanced by gluing veneer on the opposite side. This way the swelling forces cancel out. But, you are right, and I too have seen antique furniture veneered on only one side.

[@VaracolacidVesci]

@@larryciesla well yeah if the glue is water based you need to do something to prevet warping, cause water will cause it.

[@HavanaWoody]

Seems Sad to do all that work and put it on mdf

[@larryciesla]

Thanks for the comment. Actually, MDF is one of the best substrates for veneer. For all intents and purposes, MDF does not move with seasonal changes in heat and humidity. Veneer is very, very thin and unable to resist wood movement of any kind. It will check, crack or split with substrate movement. Using proper edge treatment (e.g.: 1 in wide solid walnut in this example) the MDF is completely captured by solid wood and veneer. For all intents and purposes, you would never know the core is MDF, and with reasonable care, the piece will last for generations. Of course, I would never recommend MDF for any application where moisture is likely to be consistently present. Good luck and thanks again for watching.