massive miniature failure

We cast an ancient dragon model found in viv's backyard and make more weird warhammer feat.‪@KnightsOfDice‬
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[@Oasis_Oracle]

Ah yes very on brand for you to just find a fucking mold of a dragon outside in a weird aussie wizard backyard and completely ignore any potential bad juju it contains within

[@RenMomoDotPog]

this comment rules

[@angeredtsuzuki]

He's clearly never seen Braindead/Dead Alive!

[@angeredtsuzuki]

Nope, he loved my comment. He kicks ass for the Hobby!

[@fenixmeaney6170]

I read "juju it" as junji ito This mold was made for me!

[@KnightsOfDice]

Thanks for an edit that didn't make me look like an incompetent weirdo! I am still very much learning all the time (we all are) and having you in my studio is a wonderful pleasure! Just to clarify, the mold wasn't buried in the ground ... it was buried under a bunch of other crap in the backyard when I moved in, along with a SECOND dragon mold of a completely different dragon! The adventures continue? :D

[@DuelingwithBrushes]

The "I'll do this when I have that" mind set is a defiant creativity killer that I think we all go through. Glad to see you pushed past that. Great video as always.

[@Bluecho4]

I can't believe you took a cursed mold, buried for the world's own good, and managed to create a really baller model out of it. I especially like that bat-headed rider (with what appears to be Nighthaunt parts as well?). Can't wait to see it painted.

[@tobiasbooth9740]

Agreed, it looks so weird and creepy I love it

[@619Slipk]

Saw no failures here dude Your mindset towards the hobby is always inspiring

[@jackmulcahy5046]

I love the more consistent uploads, every time I see you've uploaded i get this dumb grin on my face, I'm absolutely loving the content man keep it up

[@plaidpvcpipe3792]

18:00 this guy is 100% my favorite of your metal models. I can’t wait until he’s available! Idk I just like how lame he looks-he’s got this perfect bored expression and I adore that he’s holding a lance while on foot (maybe he’s a squire, maybe he’s just a weirdo that didn’t get the memo on lances.)

[@MrFractalrabbit]

Love it. The Goof Dragon and his rider turned out great. Thanks for the insight into the metal minis and for attempting to do cool things and try new stuff. Helps me overcome a lot of hesitation in my own art.

[@CronosVids]

These vlogs are taking on a life of their own. They are inspiring to loads of people, including myself. You are rekindling my creative drive by saying to just do it and failure is accepted.

[@Miscast]

Fantastic to hear. Thank you.

[@hauntswargaming]

I've printed bases flat on the plate. The only issue with doing it that way is the possible loss in detail (If there is any) because it's not spread out over as many layers. I pretty much always choose to print things flat on the plate if it's possible. The elephants foot can be sanded off easily enough. And you will save a lot of resin!

[@philipptomic6310]

Man ill get myself some of these minis even if shipping from australia to austria will bankrupt me . I want to kitbash some more on that.

[@sammmarru9105]

Yoo wake up, new vid of miscast making weird shit came out *weird AWESOME shit

[@daeds.paints]

So good Trent! Can't wait for those minis to be on sale aswell. Your energy is soooo contagious!

[@BarokaiRein]

That's how you create some sort of a magical artifact. Like why the hell would anyone just bury a mold of a dragon if it wasn't something like that?

[@Miscast]

Curse probably

[@aaya3525]

Thank you for embracing errors and problems while creating, and showing them to us ! I think we all need to hear that it’s ok to make mistakes, that’s what makes us humans after all. I love more the things I struggled with or what I was scared to start crafting because it’s what makes me grow as an artist. Continue your wonderful creations and videos, at your own pace !

[@Miscast]

Thank you!!

[@CaspianCrowley]

Another super inspiring video. This is absolutely the mindset I'm trying have with the hobby side of things. Can't wait to get my toad and a little miscast Miscast critter ❤

[@nickhobbs6514]

This is my new favourite channel. It's basically what I do all week at work as a carpenter/builder; trying stuff, plans failing, finding solutions, having fun. It's super relaxing to watch someone focused on the joy of process, as opposed to obsession with outcome.

[@dialog_box]

"focused on the joy of process, as opposed to obsession with outcome" ok but why is this such a bar i'm absolutely stealing this quote, thank you kind traveler

[@lofiworkshop]

Finding that dragon really worked out. I love the rider you kitbashed. Too bad about your pump.

[@jannebengtsson7338]

Love seeing you working with Viv. Woul like to see more of your actual work together tho. You guys are both such awesome guys. ❤

[@Miscast]

Make sure Viv hears this! We're doing a big table together when I return!

[@KnightsOfDice]

@@Miscast I hear it .... and I'M READY!

[@sirsimon6562]

Your videos are such an inspiration and motivation for every kind of hobby. The "who cares if it is perfect, if it's fun and works." mentality makes you in my opinion the best. I wish i could watch your videos for the first time again.

[@harazhangf5782]

Awesome job on the dragon and rider. And I love the fact that you share your thoughts with us.

[@blockprime3006]

Their is a special place in my head I can only reach from watching your videos I love all the stuff you do and you are probably my favourite creator on KZbin, keep it up treant. We all love you dude

[@Samsminis]

Trent, I recommend getting a flex plate for your 3-D printer; that way you can print bases directly on the build plate without support, and just bend the flex plate when you’re done printing - they will pop right off. I know you’re not a big fan of 3-Dprinting but I do recommend, getting a slightly better one than the one you have now if you’re going to be creating masters, as speed and accuracy of printers in more recent years is better than the one you have.

[@Miscast]

awesome, I didn't know I could get a flex plate for resin. I have access to nice printers when I need them, but I like using the one I have because it's accessible for the people watching. :)

[@grahamlane36]

On this note, I’ve been experimenting with bases flat on the build plate and using lychees hole tool to begat suction forces. Afterwards you obviously have a hole in your print but a little up torch and dabbing/painting on some resin out of the vat has been working a treat to make that disappear.

[@Samsminis]

@@Miscast RE: flex plate. The one I have for my saturn is the official whambam one, but there are other companies that do it as well. Just make sure they have the exact measurements of your build plate. Re: nicer printers, I didn't mean go out and spend $1000 to get an 8k one, but I THINK the one you have is before they started implementing mono screens? In terms of accessibility, I think anyone getting into the hobby now would be purchasing one with a mono screen. Even the Mars 2 Pro I bought back in 2020 was a mono screen. Just something to keep in mind.

[@littlebacchus216]

The honesty you shared in this video about procrastination, fear of not being prefect and the 'give it a go whats the worst that will happen' attitude earned you a sub from me.

[@vurrunna]

Words cannot express how perfect it would be for Miscast's miniatures to come with actual, bona-fide miscast miniatures. Like, the marketing writes itself.

[@DaemonSmith1]

The energy gets more manic by the episode 😂 Cheers for sharing your silicone and resin

[@Miscast]

No worries, the important info is why I buy the products I do, not so much the brand in particular. I've bought all sorts of brands and they all perform the same in my experience if I know what I'm looking for. I just buy what is cheapest/easily avalible most of the time :)

[@DaemonSmith1]

@@Miscast great advice! It was useful to hear how you go about selecting what kind of material you want for the job at hand... Material knowledge like that comes through lots of testing so I appreciate sharing your experience!

[@neilthegreat90]

Have you considered using a deep pour epoxy, like the ones used in woodworking, for these big pours? They don't need vacuum to remove bubbles because they just take ages to cure. I'm not sure what they would be like in casting miniatures, but it might be interesting.

[@Miscast]

i'd love to experiment with some! I will give it a go at some point

[@SlugCouture]

You make the hobby of Miniatures so refreshing. Thank You!

[@pez5767]

That was a wild and wonderful ride. Thank you for sharing your creativity!

[@v0dka885]

The mould looks like the Tofu Block from Resident Evil 2 Tofu mode XD

[@v0dka885]

@@monstercraft4366 absolutely 😂

[@Glitch-Gremlin]

LOL I *KNEW* that was gonna happen with the Pump... that Resin would go into the tube... though if you get a new Tube it should be ok, i guess... unless you bunt the bump up.

[@GoobertownHobbies]

this is cool! I like that dragon rider 🙂

[@Miscast]

thankyou brent!!

[@thomjackson3312]

Been enjoying your stuff for a while but finally subscribed for that sweet sweet Viv content

[@BoredBob]

When I first started gaming and painting miniatures our minis were lead and so was all out gas. I remember when that became an OMG thing and "pewter" minis came on the scene.

[@Lex-Cypher]

Without any irony, you are the Bob Ross of this hobby. You're so inspiring. Thank you so much.

[@peternorton1107]

I don’t know how weird this sounds but man I love you. You are a total inspiration to me. You may have hobby heroes but let me tell you so do I. ❤

[@dialog_box]

gotta love the unplanned found footage horror segment

[@stuff_by_ames]

I really liked the dragon! You're right, his face is funny, but character is memorable. Great video too. It was a fun watch.

[@nightcitycrafts]

That came out great, Trent. Also really cool to see what you're doing with metal minis!

[@ConjuredCraft]

"Rooted my pump" you're so bloody aussie

[@thesebi10]

Miscast video casually turns into a found footage horror movie was not on my bingo card.

[@Miscast]

it really took everything in my being to not put a jumpscare in there

[@jayskelton5946]

Been really digging the latest vids! Awesome stuff, look forward to the next!

[@innocentbystander309]

18:43 Sense memory took me back to age 6, playing on the living room floor with my tub of Lego

[@Miscast]

Honestly why I made my bits box so big.

[@makeshiftminis9090]

I didn't see any mistakes, just a whole lot of learning.

[@LooseGroose]

You make me SO happy every time I see a new video posted. Every video you inspire me to get off my butt and try (currently just collecting random junk that I can chop up and create into something later) Cheers Trent 🍻

[@Miscast]

Thank you so much! Thanks for reminding me I gotta sort out my random junk its getting out of control!

[@PeachPlastic]

I'm still in my scavenging stage, too. 🦅

[@perrygrosshans8537]

I absolutely love watching your videos, your process, your process thoughts, and just taking in the overall good vibes. You always have great advice/philosophic thoughts for hobbiests, newb or veteran, and really make everything you do so inviting and exciting for anyone else to try their hand at. Thanks!

[@belladominici929]

If you were in South Africa, it would be called load shedding. Power goes off for 2 to 4 hours at a time. Some areas stay off for up to 3 days sometimes

[@Varvasaur]

I've only just stumbled upon your channel but you're an ABSOLUTE TREASURE.

[@benjamin2629]

this was a fun video and that dragon is rad. One day I will have a big dragon to paint!

[@katiewaterrose]

Watching your videos is kind of like when my 3yrold niece gets hold of my phone and records a video. And I mean that with all the love in my heart. It's chaotic and entertaining and full of love for your craft.

[@theyellowking5967]

if you want to print flat on the build plate just get a magnetic build plate, stops the risk of chipping the rim when removing the base and leave a nice clean bottom. the elephant footing can be solved by tapering in the bottom slightly to account for the burn in layers

[@tombruce515]

Relief floods into my body when Trent uploads. Is that a snaily boi I see at 16:25 because if so I want one

[@legionnaireminis]

I love metal models so much im glad there are still people producing them ❤

[@tytanwargaming]

i recently done a conversion for a Warhammer 40k chaplain dreadnought that i'd put off for years because i didn't think i was good enough, instead what happened is i never done conversion work, so the only thing for it was to try, and it's turned out fantastically

[@Bur91a]

Thats why I print my bases flat on my resin printer too. Time and better results. They always come out oval if on an angle.

[@Annies_mini_marvels]

this is one of the best youtube videos I've ever watched. Inspiring, authentic, engaging and fun, wow. 💕

[@MisterTingles]

you reminded me of an epiphany that i forgot i'd had, thank you for this.

[@Tectonicbg]

ahhh yes, the mad scientist of miniature wargaming. Good to see you sir

[@TheNerdySimulation]

It is good to remember that not all rules apply to all situations, no matter how much they seem akin to a "universal" truth (in that space). I've worked on tabletop game design and philosophy a lot and some folks are EXTREMELY quick to assume that certain approaches are entirely invalid because they are only seeing them in the context of one particular, unquestioned design ethos. And as you mentioned: If it turns out to not work, then oh well. Bet it won't all be a waste. c:

[@tristenbezayiff571]

>orders a model from a guy named miscast >comes with a miscasted model makes sense

[@Red0Leader]

So on 3d printing flat on the plate. I do this all the time with actual size purity seals I make for larp. And yeah the benifit is there's no waste and it's a 20 minute print. The trick to getting them off is to slide the scraper along the plate with more force than you think is ok and after a little bit you'll figure out how hard you can hit them without chipping them that often.

[@Furtuim]

In regards to the 3d printing, I would recommend looking at tougher resins, like Siraya Blu or Tenacious, with some sculpt :) Love the channel!

[@Miscast]

Thankyou!!

[@AlynneTheFlorifant]

Man i want to paint that dragon, i love the standing on tail action

[@sylvainvanduyl6143]

As a 3D Printing company owner, sometimes it is fine to print on the buildplate it self. Yes...printing in a 45° is mostly fail proof...but objects like the bases, are fine to do in the plate it self. And, it safes loads of time! When I print for my 1/3000 scale project, I print the buildings on the plate. A 30 minutes wait and done. 25% fail....fine.... I'll print them again and again if needed. Parts are always re-usable and it is quite fast. I understand your view. And lets rebel against the 'always print in 45°'!

[@duon44]

18:00 can't believe you didn't mention the fact that your channel is called Miscast so ofcourse you keep the miscasts :D

[@TKs3DPrints]

after mixing millput leave it for 10 to 20 mins and it starts to harden then its perfect for placing in the base mold or you could dust the mold with some baking soda or flour or corn starch

[@louislowery2877]

Great stuff. Your minis look fantastic

[@hogs0war]

I have had a weird renaissance with metal miniatures recently as in they are the only mini's I want to paint and own. Somehow they seem to have a lot more character, I look forward to being able to purchase some of your creations in the future.

[@batman9592]

Bunnings - Selleys Knead-it Aqua. Add water to slow the curing time during hot weather.

[@RichardThompsonCA]

Great video! I've found Sirayatech Blu to be the toughest 3d resin I've used. It can also be blended with their Tenacious resin to make it slightly less brittle. I've successfully machined parts printed with the stuff. It might stand up to your molding process. If you print at 45 degrees and your parts are heavy they will stretch in the z axis, that's my experience anyway. If I print at 45 degrees I always hollow them down to 1 mm wall thickness with drain holes to make them as light as possible. I find if I need parts to be perfectly round (or they need to be solid resin) I need to print flat and parallel to the build plate.

[@Miscast]

Thank you!

[@FUJISAN992]

When trying to get an impression off of something, and you don't want your media sticking to it, vaseline is your friend! Synthetic clays and greenstuff, not sure about milliput or clay. EDIT: Where can I get that hoodie?

[@onhandart]

Yes! Break the rules, do the "dumb" thing, and use the wrong tool for the right job. I totally agree, that's how you learn, grow, and innovate.

[@user-demon420]

try useing a flexable 3d resin that way it casts without snapping

[@billyspocketlife]

We need clown Toads and a mashup of Toads and giants like the ones from nurgle diaries Ep.1

[@_caith]

as for the bases, print them at 1 mm too high (or 0.6), have it cone inward, so you can scrape it off easier from the buildplate as well, then use a sander, or even sandpaper to get to ride of the 'access' at the bottom. Removing the access is a matter of seconds per base, but it comes with the bonus of having an ultra smooth bottom layer. (you may have to build yourself a sandig jig, since you cant hold your bases well - but it should be pretty easy as long as you make 1 jig per base diameter, so you can inversely slot them in, then sand them safely and near instantly) At least on the phrozen mini 8k, with aqua grey 4k resin, this works pretty well for me

[@Miscast]

Great idea!!

[@the_arcanum]

Hey Miscast, given the harsh condition you put a resin print through the vulcanization of the wafer, you may be more successful printing not the prototype sculpt but the first mold to do an intermediary cast. There are many technical resins (that can be expensive yes) that would even allow you to make a plastic injection cast as they can sustain the glass temp for plastics. But even standard consumer resin should allow you casting any kind of polymer putty. I remember learning about how Citadel used to make their vulcanized rubber plates, the greenstuff prototypes were often wrecked in the process. Having an intermediary cast in a more sturdy material, could help. I think The Crafsman must have one or two videos about that kind of process. Beautiful Dragon btw, it's making me very nostalgic of the old 1983 Citadel compendium I drooled over when I was a kid. And please, don't stop that truth talking you did at 09:00, you're making The Voices in my head go away. That was what I needed :)

[@Miscast]

Awesome thank you, great ideas here. Crafsman knows all the secrets hahah. Thank you so much.

[@AB-ke2lw]

Miscast - the casey neistat of the miniature world

[@acesoyster4705]

Regarding printing, everything in this hobby is a trade-off. I almost never print nearly as tilted as 45°, because I simply hate the amount of cleanup I end up having to do because of the extra supports it requires and most of my models are self-supporting. Personally, I don’t mind high density supports over the bottom of bases because I find that easy to quickly run over a sanding disc, but if your goal is to go straight off the plate, and you don’t mind fighting the elephant foot, it’s definitely possible to make that work with model modifications. The only thing I would be wary of when printing flat to the plate is that it’s easy to crack parts when they are attached that firmly to the build plate and you haven’t got the sacrificial supports to snap instead. For such a large contact area, slightly less burn on the base layers might be necessary?

[@SugarCandyMiniatures]

Please please let me get my hands on some of those metal models man. 🙏 i want one of every single little guy but especially singleeyebigsleeveguy and cloverforaheadman

[@funoff3207]

Regarding that 3D printed base, you can save the ones you've made juat sand them flat?

[@martynjones3978]

I think the problem with society is every one expects perfection all the time with minimal effort!! And thats not how our species evolved, we got where we are today thru the process of trial and error!! If you do not fail then you will never learn how the Do’s and Dont’s work in your trade process!!! The best always came from a long line of failures!! Keep doing what your doing it is fantastic to watch even with your bumps and drops lol!! It makes me feel normal lol 😂😂😂

[@waaawman]

Loving the uploads my man. Really gets me in the creative mood to make weird and cool shit along with you xD

[@Miscast]

Thankyou! More on the way!

[@Y3llowSt4r]

I print my bases flat as u did. Just use blender to add a bit of hight. Because the first layers get crushed together. And reduce the radius of the base for the burn in layers. Usually I do both steps in the STL in blender and find the sweet spot by printing 4-6 prototypes.

[@Miscast]

Great idea!!

[@rolo1344]

good thing 2 stage vacuum pumps are relatively cheaper

[@francacko8695]

Will take all of them and send back a whole box of kitbashes crations

[@luketfer]

Back in...I think 2002ish, I had the opportunity to buy a professional grade metal miniatures casting machine second hand (not the mould maker but the spin caster) and back then it was about £1500 (which is about £3k today) due to interacting with getting custom miniatures sculpted and cast, I was working a high paying job at the time so I could afford it but I had nowhere to put it and still don't have anywhere to put one but I imagine they've skyrocketted in price these day. I think I still have the moulds from my first ever custom miniature somewhere in my mums attic (cost me £250 to commission and £75 for the Mould, then 50p per casting for 1 miniature, so yeah just goes to show where the major cost is on making custom miniatures, not that I'm complaining, talented miniature sculptors worked entirely by hand back then with no digital workflow to help ease things through, often with just really basic sketchy concept art being given to them...well that's what I gave them) though they've probably degraded a hell of a lot since then, probably very brittle. They were this thick tough black rubber. I can see why Siocast has taken off, looks like whilst the process itself is cheaper and easier to do without the problems of molten metal but it requires access to a Siocast machine which not everyone is going to have (the process looks cheaper but the machine is hellaciously expensive £70k-ish for the machine). Whilst with metal casting the machines are much, much cheaper, infact you often hear about homemade bodged together ones that have worked for years, at least I did back then when I talked to people in that space.

[@Miscast]

Absolute score!

[@cahePL]

A propos 3d printed bases: you definetly can print them flat on the bed, they might be a little hard to remove sometimes (can be mitigated by chamfering the edge). In most slicers you should have a compensation option (differently named: elephant foot compensation, in lychee it's just called "Compensation") that can help get rid of the lip. For the 45 deg bases (fun fact: 45 degree is not always an optimal angle, try googling "resin print angle calculator") the egg shape is a really common problem as well. It comes from undersupporting the lowest hanging edge of the print, the resin is pulled by the sheering forces during lifting and cannot resist deformation. Solutions is simple as well: do more supports on the bottom edge, even two rows is recommended. There's a good video about this on youtube on tableflip foundry channel :). Hope this is helpful! Keep up the good work man!

[@Miscast]

THANK YOU, yes this is.

[@the_arcanum]

@@Miscast Also recommended when you print flat on a resin printer, having a magnetic build plate is super useful because that mofo print sticks to the plate like there's no tomorrow and getting it off may damage the print.

[@FragorCaelestis]

I'd like to paint a dragon like it. Any chance to have one? Without the rider.

[@matthewhopson964]

very interesting video. regarding your concern over the economics of using greenstuff, have you tried blending greenstuff with milliput? they are both epoxies so are completely compatible. I always blend greenstuff with millipiut to blend the best properties of both. I like the fine texture of greestuff but not the rubberyness and I like the fast curing of milliput.Experiment with blends , I think you'll like what you find.

[@gsi095]

Coffee at night, most good Aussie coffee shops are closed by 3pm, it was the pub right?😂

[@lokiwartooth1138]

Use resione th72 is very good tough and flexible resin for 3d printers. Many things I’ve done work great with it.

[@idontwanttopickone]

21:14 it's always important to keep a nice clean bottom, no matter what you are doing.

[@user-demon420]

how much would a copy of that dragon cost i want one for my collection more than ever now lol looking at it just makes me want one

[@Zorpazorp]

Man I fucking love you.

[@Ocean_Bacon]

That tiny little bit of the mold falling out the bottom at 0:42 really gives me stress

[@Miscast]

its just a bit of silicone not from that mold, just from crust from my pot :)

[@edwardmcalavey2816]

Have you considered getting a centrifugal casting machine and make some of your own Metal Figures? You could probably melt down aluminium cans and gibe that a blast haha or just stick to puter!.. Just seeing you so much in love with the prosses of modle making like myself! I think youd realy enjoy the whole process! Mould making .. and spin casting! Whole new set of skills and a must do for anyone who loves the gistory of this stuff! I did it for a while as a job at Caliber Books in Nottingham.. best thing i ever did in this hobbie! Im sure you could make some monstrosities! ( sorry for all the posts 😅 im on a binge! ) yotube put a fire cracker up my bum 😅 and im looking fprward to finaly realising my dreams and making this hobby my life! All the best and keep up the bloody good work you absolute Lad ❤

[@bethanythedford9226]

Update, i tried salt dough and it failed, so i’m going to try something else to make my molds with

[@brudaofdebush8036]

Love your videos ❤

[@lucabastianello9830]

To avoid greenstuff stick on the mold the best is vaselline as separator

[@Miscast]

Good idea!

[@lucabastianello9830]

@@Miscast I tried almost everything avalaible to be able to use cloning and rollerpin with green stuff and i find vaselline the best way.

[@Shenanigans2000]

Looks like that WargamesBakery texture plate is called Basius and had a few Kickstarters. From what I can see they rebranded to history-craft but still have a page where you can buy Basius if you ever want other plates.

[@Miscast]

awesome, thank you!

[@Dungandungen]

Jewelers use wax to make castings. Wax is able to be carved or melted into things really easily, plus it’s cheaper than most materials. The wax burns away leaving a clean cast from what I’ve watched (not an expert just watch a lot of KZbin)