Massive Moisture Problems | Metal Buildings & Condensation - Part 2

We’re battling condensation, sweating and moisture inside our metal barndominium shop house. We also installed a hatch into the attic. #metalbuilding #moisture #blackmold
Part 1- • The Truth: Metal Build...
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[@rsinfelt1]

Get a big fan!

[@justingee4398]

Another ft of insulation in your ceiling is needed as well. Dont forget this is your forever home right

[@troyace1116]

110 cfm bath fan with humidistat switch. Maybe 2!

[@Tricksofatrade]

Where cold meets hot yep yep

[@luadraponies]

Insulated foil liner under the roofing iron for a start.

[@justingee4398]

Vapor barrier. I build houses here in canada same sorts of temps. Poly and acoustic seal the edges of framing then use poly

[@joebeecher3919]

board insulation on the backside of the hatch

[@roostercogburn809]

No attic air circulation. Roof ridge vents or turbines AND soffit vents...

[@beachlife9419]

Run your fire place more should do the trick

[@That1ufo]

So you left a hole for months! And still haven't done a vapor in the shower room. Staple Door seal around the hatch frame, and insulate the hatch door with foam board.

[@makapalatrace8385]

So did Marshall Remodel and Little Mountain Life. Check out their YT channels. Also there’s a guy on YT from Canada that does spray foam and goes into depth about it. He consulted with both the above channels Good luck!

[@bc5891]

Closed cell foam and call it done!

[@terryjones5798]

I would SUE the GUYS who built the house !

[@terryjones5798]

Sorry inside joke

[@ncbarndobuild]

No silver bullet to fixing. You have to take a multi-prong approach. Vapor barrier on the warm side of walls and roof. You also need proper ventilation to keep the humidity down in the living areas. Exhaust fans in high moisture areas like bathrooms and kitchen. Did you put a vapor barrier under your concrete? Moisture will work its way through concrete so you need a barrier under it. If not I would epoxy the top side. Whatever you do, don’t put up the drywall. Drywall is vapor permeable and will not fix the problem. Lastly move that dehumidifier from the attic to the living area. Good luck!

[@normancurrie6469]

VAPOUR BARRIER 6ML POLY SEAL ALL JOINTS ITS A MUST IN COLD CLIMATES

[@diyhandcraftedlifestyle9151]

Here in Canada we use Acoustic insulation, it's a calk that you apply to all cracks and fill small gaps. We foam all bigger gaps and cracks with a low expansion foam. "Fill" not cover, then we install Polly plastic over all exterior walls " All walls with a cold side " Staple into place. Seal the Polly like your water proofing ! Cover with whatever you want. Also install a couple whirly birds to get air Moving . Fixed 😁

[@LaidBackLiving]

Whirly birds 😊 thank you neighbor to the north!

[@68Jaguar420G]

I think you are referring to Acousti-Seal. It is a black sealant that remains flexible. Great product but man does it make a mess if you get it anywhere you don't want it!

[@Ivanskrakow]

you need vapor barrier, ceiling and walls.. And a air to air heat exchanger.

[@jonjdfsj8181]

Closed cell foam is the best way to keep the moisture out. I would do one wall at a time. I know it is a huge project but don’t let it overwhelm you friend. Look on the bright side when you are done you will have a well insulated building that won’t be as hard to heat and cool. Keep up the good work and God bless.

[@thedoor5442]

Dehumidifer in the heated space / air tight plastic vapor barrier on heated side of insulation/ air movement on cold side of insulation, no dehumidifer just exhaust fan in attic space/ vent bath to outside/ store firewood outside under tarp. No holes of any kind in your vapor barrier, that's why it's called a vapor barrier any holes you get condensation on the cold surfaces.

[@estellaknox9285]

Hi 👋 guys i am always glad to see you guys, I don't know anything about building but hope you guys get control of that condensation don't want it to destroy your beautiful home 💖 ❤ keep warm and safe GOD BLESS 💖 ❤

[@thefix2573]

Learn BEFORE you go, not as. You can't overplan. Don't rock over moisture, wait for summer, unless you want to do it twice and remediate mold. Cheaper to hire a professional than do it 2 or 3 times. Just being in there breathing and sweating creates vapor, plus is there double vapor barrier under your concrete slab floors? If not you should seal the concrete best you can Add heating the space, that convects the moisture from below to above and storing firewood inside which is unnecessary. You want your wood to be 15% or so water for a good burn, storing outside covered from rain, BUT with good air flow is best, seasoned wood is the goal, not necessarily dry wood. Great job so far and good luck with the finishing.

[@carolscott3868]

vapor barrier!!!!

[@johnkillen588]

take a car mat or piece of plastic maby 3 foot by 3 foot and tape it to a couple areas of the garage floor also............leave for 48 hrs and remove and look for a color change. Moisture can also be comming up from the floor and GET THE WOOD OUT FIRST!

[@NotOnYourLife]

Mike, I don't want to be mean so understand my tone is trying to help you solve the issue, not belittle you. In part one of this several of us told you how to correct the problem, not band aid it. You have no air gap between the Tyvek and the metal. The metal will condensate and you cannot stop that. Once the metal condensates that moisture is trapped in the Tyvek and with no airflow it has nowhere to go. You constructed the walls and the roof the same way, purlins with Tyvek on top and no sheathing. If you had put the Tyvek on the trusses and the purlins on top of the Tvek and screwed the metal down you would have an 1-1/2" air gap between the metal and the Tyvek. The condensation would have airflow to dry it out and the moisture that is in the insulation will have a direction to move and dry towards with an appropriate moisture barrier on the inside to limit moisture moving through the wall. Tyvek is not a moisture barrier, air and water vapor will move through it, that is good but it only works with airflow on the outside You will be fighting moisture forever with the building the way it is. Google Joe Lstiburek, he is the godfather of building science and there are numerous videos that will help you understand and what is going on here and what you need to do to correct it. The very first thing is to get airflow to the under side of the metal, until you do that there is no sense in doing anything else. This can be fixed but it is going to require work.

[@murraymetcalf-CA]

Thanks for sharing and explaining your insight.

[@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath]

Architecture 101. In cold climates, put your moisture barrier on the “warm in winter” side (inside side of insulation) of exterior walls and roof. Moisture barrier must be air tight seam and made of non porous materials. Sheetrock is porous

[@gjc9801]

Vapor barrier must be continuous from the foundation to and including the ceiling on the heated side of the insulation, you must stop moisture from passing from the heated area to the non conditioned area. If air can get thru any of your vapor barrier to the non conditioned side it will condense and cause massive problems from mold to rot and rusting of your metals. House wrap is an air infiltration barrier to slow air infiltration it is permeable which means it will pass moisture which is a problem for your metal. Do Not Put Up Drywall Until You Make your Vapor Barrier 100 Percent.

[@RRaucina]

Foil face foam board with all joints taped is the easiest way to achieve a vapor barrier under the drywall or wood paneling. Plastic is junk. Sheetrock sucks. But if you use it, use a vapor barrier paint.

[@alejandrolimache9518]

Looks like a quite impossible task get the 100% impermeability. There should be another way

[@libraman9226]

Put some fans up in your attic. Air movement

[@WebMasterTim]

PLEASE READ THIS! I believe the best way to deal with this issue is to use a Closed Cell Foam Insulation. I would not sheetrock before solving the moisture problem. The sheetrock will act as a sponge and absorb moisture and you will have created an expensive mold problem.

[@rogerNOmore]

Closed cell foam is very good but it’s expensive as you know. With proper insulation, continuous Vapor barrier and the wood pile outside, he will get rid of condensation.

[@jlcouture1990]

Put plastic over the insulation then add your wll material.

[@rodneyhelmuth597]

I would also consider gable fans in the attic. Works wonders with condensation.

[@missmollycollie911]

should have put a moisture barrier under the roof panrls

[@johndell8679]

6 mil poly before drywall!

[@tcpete2000]

Mike you were putting cool when you saw the moisture. As others have said you need to install a vapor barrier under your finished walls. Look forward to see how you and Liz tackle this issue.

[@rodvaughan5900]

Florida here. i use attic fans and worked.

[@jeremyshima2888]

Don't overlook the fact that having firewood inside is adding a lot of moisture to your space.

[@joshheintzeman2764]

I think ou've identified the source issue. We see something like this happening in Minnesota homes frequently and people are often baffled by the source.....whole house humidifiers. Having thousands of gallons of water coming into the building through a wood pile could produce a very similar result.🤔

[@ajhnubia]

When air is hot it keeps water but when the water hit somthing cold the you have the problem. So you have to get bath room an cooking air out of the house before it gets cool wall

[@rongendreau6029]

You need a vapor barrier on the inside of your structure, such as on your studs before you put up your wall boards or sheet rock.

[@dper1112]

I don't mean to be rude, but I think you don't understand how condensation works... Moisture works its way from in your house out, and it also comes from outside air, when there's a surface that's warm or cold. Here's a general rule of thumb: if you have metal, and airflow on both sides, and one side is warmer than the other, that side will have condensation. Attic. Your ceiling has a vapor barrier, right? So the moisture from your house isn't going into the roof. Instead, heat from your house is slowly getting through the insulation, and this creates a situation where the attic is slightly warmer than the outside air. As a result, you get condensation on the underside of your metal roofing. If your stove pipe is single pane, that is definitely a problem too. You can probably fix this by adding more vents for air to circulate through your attic. If the attic temperature is the same as the outside temperature, there will be minimal condensation. The current vents are probably far too small. Walls. Your walls might have a similar issue, but the first thing to do is add a vapor barrier. Right now, some humid air is flowing from the inside out, and that condenses on the inside of the metal siding. It is possible that if you add a vapor barrier, this problem will go away. You still need to check periodically, at least for the first year after adding one, though. All of these vapor barriers should be as tight as possible. Tape all seams with the right kind of tape. Use caulking on the backside if you can. Being extra meticulous is very important here. A careless job is likely to perform poorly, and fixing these issues in the future can be shockingly expensive. Take your time. Best of luck!

[@daddyalen1726]

Take a cold soda can out on a hot humid day it will sweat like crazy so it's too humid inside your building

[@sigvardc]

Happy Birthday Liz Have a great day !!

[@edithrobertson6066]

What about foam ceiling !

[@jrac534]

Reminds me of the walls in our house when I was child.

[@bobjoncas2814]

..hope you get the problem fixed, keep well..

[@roadking8337]

cold air and all that metal your going to have water get the 6 cords of wood out that will help

[@garykuiken6191]

Your biggest problem is the lack of proper vapour barrier. Need 6 mil vapour barrier on all the walls and ceilings. No holes anywhere. Use sealant on all the seams were the poly joins and ends. A fan pulling cold air through the attic might also help. Tyvek belongs on the outside of the building. Don't drywall till the moisture problem is fixed or in a couple of years you'll have to do it all over. GET RID OF THE MOISTURE FIRST.

[@danielcourtney7478]

I agree with Gary ... you need some kind of vapor barrier prior to putting up the sheet rock or ship lap

[@SteveN-nk9xy]

Plastic on one side of the insulation and steel on the other creates a petri dish. Not a good idea.

[@happyinfidel1]

More roof vents?

[@meandnature6452]

i think plastic is not a good idea, will trap the moisture in the wall

[@2-bar-one]

JELINECK CORK SPRAY FOR HOMES ELIMINATS MOISTURE AND INSULATES

[@justingee4398]

Without vapour barrier even with wall material you are coming to have leaks and the same problem.

[@thefix2573]

You basically have a roof all around you, which in modern cold climate building practices would ask for at least 1/2 inch foam and ice/water shield over the plywood. Are the walls just tin and Tyveck? Trying to figure a solution. Doing it right is rarely easy, but always worth it. IF yo did have foam board between the metal and substrate you could insulate and vapor barrier before sheetrock and be fine. I see you fix options as stripping exterior metal panels to add 1/2 to 1 inch foam bard OR spray foam the cavities, closed cell.

[@thefix2573]

You want to push the point of condensation to the back/underside of the metal so it can weep there and have air flow from outside to dry. In siding terms it would be called a rainscreen. THat is what the rubber membrane "Grace Ice and Water Shield" is for, it gives your roof a roof under it for that condesation, used to use tar paper but Vycor is a superior product, self healing from puncture, seals around nails/screws.

[@albertbuikema4451]

Vapor barrier on the hot side every time. That's why it's in every house

[@bwillan]

I think your attic is woefully under insulated. A moisture and air barrier to seal off the living space from the attic is also essential. The idea is to stop warm and cold air from meeting.

[@timbourque5095]

Ceramic paint and a "Cold roof" with 2x4 strapping so you have that inch and a half air gap that's building two roofs but that's what I would do I've done this before and the people I was working with were hard to deal with 😁 so it was almost doomed from the beginning I don't know what your heating with ? That maybe part of the problem , I've done very very energy efficient highly insulated buildings and I've tried talking people into cold roofs but people don't like the added expense but two roofs are way better than one , and when I started with the difficult people I tried to get them to use sips panels with a big air gap between the sips and the exterior insulated metal walls and some other things that i believe would of been very cool and would have worked out for them but everything was their problem not mine ! I tried I ended up quitting towards the end when they told me it wasn't mine 😳 😂 I was like you can't do that ? this isn't your house they said I said Well no 💩 it wouldn't be because I would not want to go through all the 🐮💩 your going to go through , it looked super cool awesome place if done right , I did hear back from them and they had lot's of added expenses anyway and had some spray foam insulation done and then after that they gave up and sold everything so I'm not sure what's going on with the place , good luck . 👍

[@evriellesmith6659]

The best way would have been close cell spray foam works very well you are beyond that point. Google vapor barrier seams like you need to rethink how you intend to keep air and moisture out using porous sheet rock Use plastic

[@chapelhillhomestead1731]

I’m sure many people have said the correct strategy to resolve your moisture issues. First thing you do is staple 6 mil plastic on all the exterior walls. Use moisture rated Sheetrock and get the walls covered sooner than later. You can also purchase specialty paint that will give you added moisture protective barrier. As far as the attic goes, unfortunately you will have to spray foam the ceiling. Hope it all works out!

[@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath]

Great for the walls, but it won’t solve the condensation problem in the attic unless you think all that condensation is also coming from inside the space even though he has open rafters creating plenty of ventilation

[@lowmanagain]

Im getting ready to buy a spray foam rig because im a builder. Im glad i watched this video

[@JH-jd8ip]

Your firewood will give off massive amounts of moisture while its drying/seasoning. Store it in a separate building

[@johnkillen588]

AS much as half the weight of the wood can be nothing but water.........ergo you have 5 tons of newly cut wood then you can have 2.5 tons of water

[@theshop5331]

esential a swimming pool in there (the wood pile)

[@johnnelson8956]

Drywall is not going to stop your moisture problem. Youre going to compound your problem because the moisture won't stop and eventually mold will start growing and the organic material on drywall ( paper ) is a food source. You have to put as much insulation as you can between the metal siding and the warm air on the inside.

[@Trader-M]

Great video. As everyone is saying you need a vapour barrier. 6 mil before any drywalling. Also it is important to cover the exposed insulation in your downstairs bathroom, as some of those particles will be in the air and you will breathe them in.

[@MtTopLiving]

I had very similar problem , I ended up getting it spray foamed and that solved the problem.

[@lepointjosiane9640]

Il faudrais laisser un vide d'air entre la tole extérieur et l'isolation. Henri French

[@thelpw2608]

I noticed the firewood inside as well. Adds moisture and can bring in critters. For the moisture on a metal building, it appears you have Tyvek or some type of house wrap on the studs, then the metal. House wrap is not insulation and the metal needs to be insulated for it to not sweat. I'd say pull the metal off, remove the wrap, install bubble insulation (R9) , then install metal back on. The insulation against the metal will keep it from sweating. The insulation in the attic is okay but its going to stay wet with the metal sweating. Even outside , a lean-to in open air and no walls, the metal will sweat and drip. I've built dog kennels with metal roof (no walls, open air) and if you insulate with bubble wrap (pole barn supply stores have it) , it wont sweat. The dehumidifiers and fans and all that are band-aids just addressing the symptoms (you dont need them if you address the sweat problem). You need to address the source of your sweat moisture due to metal not having insulation against it. Vapor barrier not needed. If you're heating with propane or kerosene that draws in oxygen through cracks and will cause sweating. You need ventiliation in all structures but you need to just simply get bubble wrap against metal to stop it sweating. The heating/cooling of metal walls and roof causes sweat on inside. The bubble wrap will stop the sweating. Try a spot and see for yourself to test it. Maybe remove 10 to 15 feet of metal on sides or on roof, remove tyvek, install bubble wrap (its shiney silver stuff R-9 I think), then re-install metal. Then wait a few weeks to see if metal is wet on inside. I bet it'll be dry as a bone. Pole barns are typical 2x4 perlins , then bubble wrap, then metal and nothing else (no vapor barrier, no tyvek, nothing).

[@offgridhandyman]

Vent the hell out of it. Soffit vents maybe even a fan.

[@CHIPMAN999]

One thing no one is thinking about, you just added the pile of wood that is still drying out and where is that water going to end up. Your walls and roof. Build a wood Shed!

[@rodneyhelmuth597]

The climate in your area calls for a latex paint on drywall for a vapor barrier. Having a 6 mil poly vapor barrier and paint will be a double vapor barrier and possibly trap moisture in the wall.

[@mscharylee]

Spray foam is the only way to insulate a metal building or shipping container.

[@kenb2118]

How does condensation work, hot humid air hits a cold glass, lots of water. Same principal in reverse, your cold glass is the metal skin, hot humid air is coming from inside. You've got to contain the warmth and humidity, vapor barrier and insulation. Try plastic in the bathroom to prove it for yourself, all walls and ceiling, seams taped. Should only take a few days to prove it out. You videos are great BTW.

[@hollowpoint357sw4]

Talking about something fu*king up someone’s entire f-n month. Really feel for you guys.

[@danpease8395]

Where ever the warm air meets the cold surface you will get condensation. Otherwise start moving the air. Fans man. Pink insulation is not a vapor barrier.

[@1kbs11]

Many comments are calling for vapor barrier on the ceiling - WRONG! let it breath. The moisture created by living will always be created - the secret is to create a good ratio of absorbing materials to the amount of moisture being created by the occupants. You made it more difficult to find that ideal ratio with the choice in building materials - concrete (water sponge), Metal (non absorbing etc.). You need materials that can take on and hold water long enough to be dealt with via proper conditions. Think: Drywall vs tile in a bathroom. An all tiled bathroom would drip with water after a shower vs a combo of tile and drywall or wood. Bathroom are a good example of water being held and then released slowly via an exhaust fan. So yes, drywall would help. It also appeared that the "chimney effect" (low to high) isn't taking place in the attic with the venting you have. As you may know winter air tends to be arid. For the time being, you can keep the interior as close as you can stand (and plumbing can stand) to the outside temps. In short; get rid of the plastic on the ceiling and install fans on the ceiling (rotating for winter - counter clockwise) and replace the plastic on the ceiling with wood. Monitor to learn if air is moving through low to high vents on its own or will exhaust fans be needed in the attic. Use the dehumidifier in the living space (beware of sinus issue when using). And soooooo much more ........ you'll figure it out. (JF)

[@NotOnYourLife]

I live in a metal building, and basic barndo, metal skeleton with metal siding and wood framing on the inside. I have been in the building industry since the early 80's. I am in the South, we have our moisture barrier on the outside and dry towards the living space. Ony one vapor/moisture barrier. Even in our climate the metal will condensate, we have a 2" air gap between the metal and the vapor barrier and insulation. You are in the North and you must have your moisture barrier on the inside and dry towards the outside. Some basic principles... 1. If it gets wet it must be able to dry. 1a. It will get wet. 1b. It must be able to dry. Moisture flows from warm to cold. Air can diffuse about a third of a quart of water through 32 sq ft of drywall in one winter season. One square inch of wall penetration can allow 32 quarts of water to pass into the wall cavity in a winter season. (If you have listened to Joe Lstiburek's building science you will already know that) You will probably not be able to 100% seal the wall with a barrier to prevent water transmission to the wall cavity but you should try and drywall penetrations will pass the bulk of the water that enters the wall. Expect moisture in the wall cavity so what must then happen? Basic principles, it will get wet so it must be able to dry. Cold air contains less moisture than warm air and moisture flows from warm to cold. With the way your walls and ceiling are constructed you are not allowing air on the cold side to move moisture from the warm side to the outside air to dry it out. It is contained in the Tyvek which has no airflow on either side. There is no where for moisture to go. Even if you are able to 100% seal the interior with a zero perm barrier you will have trapped the existing moisture in the wall because the metal is tight against the Tyvek, it has no where to go. The metal roofing is the perfect condensating surface, it will get wet and it must be able to dry. There is a solution in your case, as close to zero perm as possible air barrier on the inside and airflow around the metal on the outside. The roof and the Tyvek will keep direct wetting (rain) away from the insulation but you need that airflow between the metal and the Tyvek otherwise you are creating a container for the moisture. You can fix this so t is not a problem.

[@1kbs11]

Life is never Laid Back Living as you are learning. REMOVE THE PLASTIC YOU HAVE ON THE CEILING (the plastic you have attached to the rafters holding the insulation). Use exhaust fans in the attic for now. Then send me free T-shirts for the free opinion. Thanks and Merry Christmas. (JF)

[@jansmit4628]

You need a serious vapour barrier like plastic or tar covered paper (as normally is part of isolation material). Then tape the overlapping barrier parts with tape. The chipboard will not stop warm vapour air reaching the metal wall.

[@RumbleRoverTV]

There shoud be a head/cold barriere in the roof. a roof made of pir or pur wil overcome this.

[@swedesspeedshop2518]

Looks like you have streaks coming down the cinder blocks ?

[@jmb-cm7mr]

I have a Metal Barn 2 story Gambrel downstairs we insulated all the walls and ceiling and then put a Vapor barrier on walls and ceiling down stairs no moisture problems on the second floor

[@johnfetzer9637]

You can run a couple small fans up in the addict to move air ... vapor barrier on inside core.

[@royamberg9177]

You need vapor barrier on all walls and ceiling. That's why you have water condensing on the wall and moisture rises

[@BS.-.-]

That's actualy not why. You get condensation because the warm interior air is hitting the cold metal/vapor barrier.

[@BS.-.-]

You need more insulation. In all reality you need spray foam for metal siding and a metal roof. It seals and insulates. Your just never going to get enough air sealing with batt insulation for metal siding in a climate like yours.

[@bobwright7348]

You need to have a vapor barrier on the wall after the insulation has been installed with the vapor barrier tapped at the joints. That will separate the warm side of the wall from the exterior side.

[@csite4382]

Add a large fan mounted in one side of the building and vent on the other side to pull air through, gable ends did this for my large shop in Oregon , fan should be at least 24inch or larger steel wall mount

[@rustymontgomery9281]

Turbine Vent Whirlybird you need about 3 the more the better

[@williamhamill813]

You can never seal a wall cavity all the way. You need it to breathe. Metal siding or roofing is not a sheathing. The walls I would remove the metal sheath with ZIP or OSB and Tyvec. Then rain screen lathing on the screw lines then hang the metal back. the roof I would make sure the eves and peak are vented and insulate and vapor barrier the shit out of that ceiling. You need to also vent out the intirour space of the house especialy if you have showers washers and kitckens in the space. You can't trap air in any building space ever.

[@chuckchamplin6627]

i make those buildings... wait until summer to do your sheetrock so it is all dry .

[@roberthillyard4234]

you need to get the walls spayed fome m8

[@kennethhudson8013]

You should get some 1/4 inch osb and cover the ceiling of the shop

[@johnroos1048]

You have to install vapor barrier on the interior and air barrier on the exterior on the outside wall Also wrap interior electrical boxes with plastic wrap to avoid air leaks and condensation on the backs of the boxes .

[@rogerNOmore]

I am sorry to say, but you already have a lot of black mold on the cold side of your furring strips. You need to address this asap, it’s just going to get worst and unliveable at some point (not exaggerating). First, insulation need to be continuous with no gap and hopefully at least 5.5 inch deep if your using pink or roxul. Not aware of your construction code but I guess it’s at least a 3mil or ideally a 6mil Vapor barrier. That barrier also need to be continuous and tapped. Another thing, like many others have point out, all of the wood piles release a ton of humidity, so it’s a good idea to put them outside. Finally don’t waste time dehumidifying your attic and fix the cause of the problem. Good luck, you can do it. Edit: I saw on a previous video that you have covered the soffit with tyvek, if it’s still the case, that will just make your condensation problem even worse! You need to keep them clear with baffle so that your insulation doesn’t block them

[@justingee4398]

You have that air gap on the outside for the metal. But if your envelope isnt sealed your running into the same problem. Drywall is not the fix. Poly and sealant is way cheaper then dry walling and putting tape on everything wont do it.

[@spartaeus]

Metal roofs always form condensation underneath unless you have the underside spray foamed. The problem is caused by the rapid temperature change that occurs in metal roofs, and the normal moisture in a warmer area inside your home. Metal roofs transfer outside temperatures instantly to the inside surface. That forms condensation.

[@thefix2573]

We build a rainscreen system so the only condensation can happen on the back of the metal panel and run down the undelayment. We use a Vycor product, self sealing membrane, and foam board insulation on walls and roof if covered in metal. If they had gotten a Building permit for a Residence and not a Shop, it'd have to have been done right to pass inspection. I live in the same area of Idaho, Contractor for 20 years.

[@3091752]

Yup this is why it’s best not to affix metal directly on a roof you need like you said a. Rain screen polyiso works great and then some 1/2 to 1 inch furing strips giving proper air flow also poly iso is cheaper than spray foam

[@troywalker5485]

Definitely should put some insulation on the top of your hatch. Good luck with the moisture problem.

[@nnordby78]

Do you have inspections and building codes?

[@erwinaddison2030]

Heat recovery ventilator(HRV) will remove humidity.

[@1966cambo]

A simple but time consuming fix is to lift the roof and put down heavy felt (tar paper) and that will take care of condensation. You need vapour barrier over your insulation, tape all seams and even staples and that will deal with it all! This is why building permits exist!

[@TentFever]

Expanding spray foam will stop the condensation. The whole underside of roof must be sprayed. Should have used spray foam for the entire place.

[@brianpisant3567]

Do not put up the sheet rock until you get the moisture under control! Mold will take over the entire building!

[@brainndamage]

Moisture barrier on the INSIDE of the insulation (warm side), seal all joints with tape or caulk, the outside needs to breathe, so all walls and attic need to be ventilated (your attic seems to be over-ventilated right now). In your case, the steel sheets are acting as a moisture barrier on the outside, where you don't want it (outside needs to expel the moisture), this is traditionally done by semi-permeable building materials, like vapor permeable membrane, wood, permeable paint (not latex), etc. In the case of steel siding only ventilation helps.

[@brainndamage]

Also all penetrations for electrical conduit or air ducts need to be sealed so that warm moist air can't enter the cold parts of the building. Air vents need to go through the walls or attic directly outside, never into the cold part of the building.

[@theurbangetawaygiftsmore..9568]

A dehumidifier makes a big difference even in the short term until you find a long term solution, but you need to keep it in an area above freezing.

[@thomassears4920]

I feel the pain of dealing with unexpected issues as these style buildings are new. I'm building one in AL and it got down to 29 last night and I had a little condensation in the attic. Probably not enough to worry about but not a great feeling. I put a dedicated dehumidifier up there today we'll see how it works.

[@fisherus]

I would get a couple of cheap 20 inch box fans and place in your attic to circulate and dry the moisture.

[@krazykeltic8103]

1. Get an air to air heat exchanger to get rid of the moisture inside of the house. 2. when the humidity is way down inside of the house put a moisture barrier on the walls, to keep the moisture from the outside wall. 3. warm air contains moisture that will condense on any cooler walls. Drywall without a moisture barrier will not do anything.

[@paulstewart323]

Do you have soffit vents? You need them for attic airflow.

[@timadams2923]

large powered gable vent above the roof insulation to allow air flow

[@sailme2day]

youtube ate my long engineering explanation . seal all the attic vents. plastic over the bath ceiling . place your dehumidfier in the bath after each shower. buy 3-5 temp and moisture meters , remote style so you can see them from a base unit. please do not drywall yet . gasket the siding , tops and bottoms ( solid foam type) to keep outside moisture from coming in . you can always send me an email or we can do a call. I built passive homes in michigan with zero furnaces . 2000 -10, 000 sq ft . Standard building methods will not work or solve your challenge, honest . Anyone who tells you " do not worry , it will be alright " is not telling your truth.

[@colethompson5383]

Your biggest problem is having a vented attic. Seal up your attic and create a conditioned attic space. Do not follow any recomendations of having a vapor barrier on the interior of framing. That is 100% wrong. A moisture barrier on the inside of the framed envelope will trap moisture in the walls. You want the moisture barrier on the exterior of the walls, and if you can, you should put exterior insulation on/over the moisture/air barrier and a rain screen between exterior insulation and siding. The same for the roof system. A dehumidifier works much better with a conditioned attic/ sealed envelope