Material Showcase - Damascones (Alpha, Beta & Delta) Sniffed & Explained

Today we will look closely at the 3 main damascone materials (alpha, beta and delta), smell them and explain how they are used in perfumery and speak about their IFRA compliancy.
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BK SCENTS :)

[@trillnoel6078]

I need you as a friend in this lonely world of perfumery. You are killing it man. - Trill Noel

[@sammacer]

Great to see you back, I hope you had a good Christmas!

[@bkscents7050]

Thanks bud! Happy Holidayz!

[@mikemakesathing]

Amazing video! I am just getting into perfumery and your channel is suuuuuper helpful, thank you so much!

[@bkscents7050]

Thanks Mike!

[@kurush61]

Welcome back! Missed seeing your videos!

[@bkscents7050]

The holidays are over....time to get back on track!

[@Mzaros1]

Bk, sempre nos enriquecendo com conhecimentos aprofundados! Muito obrigada! Que o seu canal cresça e esteja do top do mundo! É o único canal com conteúdo relevante, que realmente alicerça quem está nessa estrada tão difícil onde tudo é segregado.. é a difícil saga do autodidata ...rs... As escolas de perfumaria de renome segregam o acesso a esse conhecimento, via monetária $$$$, (praticamente só entram lá milionários ou os futuros empregados das Multi) e então cobram milhares e milhares de dólares $$$$$ pra impedir os Indie de surgirem. translation( : Bk, always enriching us with in-depth knowledge! Thank you! May your channel grow and be on top of the world! It is the only channel with relevant content, which really underpins who is on this difficult road where everything is segregated .. it is the difficult saga of self-taught ... lol ... Renowned perfumery schools segregate access to this knowledge, via monetary $$$$, (practically only the Millionaires or future employees of the Multi enter there) and then charge thousands and thousands of $$$$$ dollars to prevent Indies from appearing. I'm sorry for the bad English, because it's not my native language.

[@ajanaya8055]

Papa BK blessed us with new video

[@bkscents7050]

Haahaha ...yes, holidays are over ...so time to get back to making some videos!

[@andrewh175]

Your hair should have its own fan club 😀

[@bkscents7050]

Oh you dont know about my other YT channel "BK HAIR"?

[@filipevieira2363]

Lol, agree 😄

[@bkscents7050]

It's all about the hair dryer and hair wax my friends...lol

[@GollumSmeagol]

Andrew Hugg?? Aren't you that guy that had a hissy fit on that basenotes forum? And then everyone started to suggest you ideas on how to share those analysis, and you just ignored everyone? And now you are constantly saying "When I get my analysis back of amber absolute", and shoving into everyones faces that you'll get an analysis and won't share with anyone. How pathetic are you and in need of attention?

[@bkscents7050]

@@GollumSmeagol I kindly ask that we keep comments like this to a minimum. 'Name calling' on other YT viewers isn't really polite, and if there is an issue(s) you have with a YT viewer based on another forum/platform, I kindly ask that you keep your comments on that specific platform. I get it that this is the internet and we have freedom of speech, but when comments are made to my viewers/followers as named "pathetic" based on other internet platforms/forums participations, well its not relevant to this YT channel and I'm asking to keep these kinds of comments to a minimum. Thanks for understanding Gollum :)

[@dmitryaksenov9166]

Thanks for the video! Delta is my favorite, love the dried fruits, tobacco nuance of it. Next time - ionones pls 😋

[@bkscents7050]

Alpha is my fave....followed by Delta! Ionones video....noted!

[@juelraj3901]

Glad to see you back with another video. Very informative. I heard of beta damascone but not the rest. Will look into it whenever I make another order for ingredients 🙂 I have still not made anything that I like yet. Will need more practice!

[@bkscents7050]

It all takes time and patience. You may end up making 50 trials before you come up with something you like, but don’t lose hope. Just keep tweaking and observing the changes along the way

[@juelraj3901]

@@bkscents7050 thanks I will try my best. I think I will start again by making a citrus top note blend. I have lemon EO, Grapefruit EO, Bergamot EO, D'limonene, Citral, AAG and some peppermint EO. I should be able to figure something out with that!

[@wib6044]

I finally ordered Beta. Diluted to 1%. Even at 1 drop in an average 1 gram total blend (haven’t worked out parts yet for the two formulas I’ve created) it adds a unique character. I get plum out of it. I’ll definitely be ordering the other two in the future.

[@bkscents7050]

Beta is fun.....alpha is apple fruity rose and crisp.....Delta is rosy tobacco......but Damascenone is like combining all the facets into one! It's fruity, plum, tobacco, spicy, apple.....it's a wild ride! But it's also 2x more powerful than the other damascones so it needs to be diluted down further

[@HeinssonsParfumLabor]

Great Video, thank you! Until now I didn't realise that the 0.043% refers to the combination of all damascones 😭. I wish it could be more, more, more! I like the damascone beta the most 🥰

[@bkscents7050]

I know! I want to use more too!

[@Goodday-ez9fd]

Your videos are very helpful. I like it. Sir my question is ' How can I make concentrated perfume oil instead of perfume with great longevity up to 10 hours' Like Surrati, Rasasi, Ajmal. How can I improve my perfume oil's longevity. Which thing should be used in it for longevity? Please answer.

[@kevinnefdt8653]

Great content and great videos. Any chance of you being able to share some of your thought and ideas with regards to solid cologne. Thanks again and keep up the good work

[@AromiErotici]

I haven't tried the Damascones yet. I have used Floralozone in one of my trials and I found I need to dilute it way down. It's overpowering. So far, I've made numerous top, heart and base accords with some being pretty good. My one problem with ALL OF THEM is longevity. At the 3 hour mark, they are barely skin scents.

[@bkscents7050]

Floralozone I like to keep around 3-5 parts per thousand in my formulas. It is a pretty strong material

[@JayMannStuff]

Could you please make a video on Irones , maybe another about Ionones?

[@7HANAWAT98]

Very helpful. Thank you 😍

[@bkscents7050]

You’re welcome 😊

[@7HANAWAT98]

@@bkscents7050 lychee accord is interesting. But difficult to make it.

[@chrisundi8389]

Delta sounds like just what I was searching for to add to my formula. Some possible content that I’m searching for as an aside...is when developing a formula do you use the jean carles method? Like for each ingredient that you introduce do you compare mix ratios of 1:9, then 2:8, 3:7, etc.? It seems like a crazy amount of trial tests when you’re mixing 10-50 ingredients to find the right blend. Do you do trials for your heart, then base, then top? Sorry for the million questions, just excited to learn. Thanks for all your amazing content and keep up the great work with your channel!

[@bkscents7050]

I only do jean charles method is when I'm creating a basic accord/note. It would be impossible to do this for a full perfume consisting of 40+ materials. When I attack a full perfume trial blend, I mostly have to figure out what notes I want to feature in the perfume as a whole. Some are "star/featured" notes....and some are "accent/supportive" notes. I tend to start by taking 1-2 "main" notes from each layer (base,mid,top) and get those blended cohesive first. Once those feel balanced I'll then add in my supportive secondary notes, and then lastly I'll add in some special additives for "wow factor"

[@chrisundi8389]

That makes so much sense! Thank you for your response. I’m working on this luxury amber, woody, inky-suede-paper effervescent thing. Maybe adding some plum/dried fruits. Loving the journey of exploration. Thanks again for the invaluable help! You make it look effortless...and it’s most certainly is not.

[@bkscents7050]

Every composition can be tackled in so many ways, there really is no right or wrong way to tackle a blend. Always use a method you feel comfortable with, and provides positive results and leads you into a comfortable working zone....

[@judysmith8976]

This illuminates so many possibilities, thank you! There's an expensive smelling sort of top note in ladies perfume I'd like to identify and I wonder if it's an ionone? It's almost like more refined Aquanet hairspray or metallic ish something...

[@bkscents7050]

Hmmm...this could be alot of things. Ionones don't smell metallic or hair spray to me...but that's just my nose. They are more powdery and violet like.

[@judysmith8976]

@@bkscents7050 thank you! I wish I could describe it better. It will be a quest, I'll let you know if I find it 😏

[@bkscents7050]

What perfumes do you notice it in? Like what are the names of the perfumes?

[@judysmith8976]

@@bkscents7050 I notice it in Swiss Arabian's Kashka and their Khol al Ayoun

[@goodimoh7157]

@@bkscents7050 they smell lipsticky sometimes

[@jayz7802]

I think your videos are great, really good for a amateur DIYer who is venturing into perfume. You explain things in a good way, much appreciated. I have a question, I’ve ordered Lemon - Sfumatrice, Black pepper, Peppermint EO ... would you recommend diluting this I.e. lemon to the suggested 2% recommended by the IRFA ? I’ll then just add the 2% to my blends? Black pepper and Peppermint EO I was thinking of diluting to 10% maybe 20% ... I don’t have experience of these oils, obviously I don’t want them to overpower my blends, any advice I’d really appreciate. I’m subscribed to your channel, keep up the good work man 👍🏻

[@bkscents7050]

Lemon EO can be diluted down to 20%. Black pepper and peppermint you may want to predilute down to 10%.

[@jayz7802]

@@bkscents7050 thanks that’s a great help 👍🏻

[@bentleycreative6407]

Thanks for another great video explainer - how do these compare to Damascol 4? I understand that isn't restricted.

[@bkscents7050]

Never tried that one before.....

[@laconan]

Great review, can you please do a tutorial on a gourmand formula using Chovovan, labdanum, brown sugar, coumarin, honey and maybe a little Tonka... I'd love to see your take on it!

[@bkscents7050]

Hahaha, a gourmand fragrance is what im working on next, but i will take a while to finish it......so a video dedicated around it will be a while. But thats not to say it wont happen.... ;)

[@laconan]

@@bkscents7050 sounds great, it's my favorite genre but often times it's the hardest to get right, I'm working on one right now too, I'm inspired by a Black Phantom by Kilian

[@bkscents7050]

I loooove Killian frags. I know exactly what you mean

[@laconan]

@@bkscents7050 They are amazing!!! I would also love to hear your take on using distilled water in a formula

[@trillnoel6078]

Can you make a video about peppermint. Mentha piperita to be exact. I have been discussing this heavily on r/diyfragrance I am trying to make it have more longevity, even if it is only in simulation after the top note fades.

[@Goblin1986p]

Idea for a video. Pick a category or set the theme, and have some amateur perfumers send you a vial of their creations and review them blind.

[@bkscents7050]

i freakin' LOVE that idea!

[@Goblin1986p]

@@bkscents7050 I just got into perfuming. Ive always had a cologne collection of niche stuff but finally with pandemic went off the deep end. I started like 3 weeks ago and I've made roughly 200 different blends, and honestly only a few immediate OMG toss this. I didnt know guiacol or valspice were as strong as they are ....and yea...i figured it out quickly. I would send you stuff I have made in a heart beat just to have someone other than my wife smell these things lol. She is one of the "it smells good" or "it doesnt smell good" type. Shes upped her game lately though saying things smell "like" something which is good. Shes starting to associate!

[@Goblin1986p]

@@bkscents7050 Also...just a side note. I dont know if you have tried putting in seaweed key accord from PA in any woody/ambers but it adds a kind of dirty that is super weird and interesting. My wife used to hate it now shes addicted to the smell of it.

[@bkscents7050]

@@Goblin1986p I havent tried that one yet. Ive got my eye on this guy: shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-8408-seaweed-absolute-50.aspx

[@Goblin1986p]

@@bkscents7050 Well...both would be fine too? I've watched through about 5 of your videos...and one thing I can tell you already from watching your stuff. You absolutely love Perfumers apprentices accords....more than I think you even realize. You end up just loving the wider ability of usage of them a lot of the time from what I've seen. I dont know how the pure stuff smells but I imagine much sharper than the PA...which is hard and...easy at the same time once you smell it. Its a weird nori scent like a pack from the supermarket but .....wetter.

[@goodimoh7157]

Happy New year and welcome back. I love beta damascone... (well it's the only one I own 😂). I have mine at 5% dilution and 3% and use only one drop. the thing is soooo powerful and easily overwhelms. it was one of the reason my perfume almost didn't get cleared. Do you have peomosa? If you do, what do you think of it? All the best for the new year x

[@bkscents7050]

I have Peomosa! I like it quite a bit. It’s almost like they peony version of “rosaphen”. A very delicate floral material that’s just lovely soft.

[@goodimoh7157]

@@bkscents7050Thank you! But as we know perfumery is a saturated market but we must graft (nothing good comes easy. still looking for stockists) also found it soft.... slightly hauntingly lingering. I diluted it to 20%. would you use it neat?

[@bkscents7050]

I use mine also at a 20% dilution too for my smaller trial blends. I only use it at full strength when making much larger batches of finished formula perfumes.

[@Hshrhjrid476]

god bless u .

[@texasfan8892]

I would love to see a tutorial on making a dark, spiced plum accord. I've used materials such as prunella, datilat, pyroprunat, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate yet they just don't seem to give me what I'm looking for, which is that intense fruitiness. Perhaps alpha or beta damascone would help?

[@bkscents7050]

Mmmmm....I don’t think that’s what your looking for for plum fruitiness. Damascone is primarily a rosy floral nature, and although damascone (beta or delta would fit the profile better) does have a touch of fruitiness, it’s not THAT kinda of fruity sweet your looking for.

[@texasfan8892]

@@bkscents7050 Ok thanks. Well, I already purchased some beta damascone anyway. I may or may not add it in but if I do, it will certainly be in trace amounts.

[@BlainsTube]

My mind is opening up to "rose" as an accomplice in men's fragrances.

[@bkscents7050]

Rose is actually used quite a bit in mens fragrances. Its a pretty good floral "freshener" in combo with lily of the valley materials.

[@texasfan8892]

hmm that delta damascone sounds really interesting. I wonder if you could use it to create a nice tobacco accord.

[@bkscents7050]

It’s probably to rosey for that. Not to say can’t use it as such, because in perfumery there are no rules......but if you were to use it for this situation I would keep it real low

[@texasfan8892]

@@bkscents7050 Oh ok thanks. I was thinking it would incorporate some nice dried fruit nuances into the overall smell. Of course, tobacco absolute might be easier to use but being able to make my own accord the way I want sounds much more interesting. I've heard tabanon and tobacarol are very helpful in creating tobacco accords.

[@brucewayne375]

Have you heard of Pomarose from Givaudan? I read its like a damascone

[@bkscents7050]

ive heard of it, but never smelled it on its own. Its supposed to be more gourmand version of damascone alpha, where its more like "baked apple pie" with rosey diffusion and bloom. It sounds lovely....and i cant wait for it no longer to be a captive and available to the public!

[@wib6044]

Dude! Where are you? We need more videos. Set up a patreon so we can donate for more content. I’m on my 12th time watching each of these!🤪

[@bkscents7050]

I had to slow down my videos to 1 every 2-3 weeks. I'm juggling too many projects.....

[@logocracycopy]

You work with a lot of synthetics and chemical compound materials. I'd love you to do a video on the potential toxicity of these and the best practices on how you keep these safe and within regulation. E.g. in previous videos you've recommended materials like Linalool and Ethyl Maltol, but I see others saying these are toxic. And other things like polycyclic musks being neurotoxic. I think it's important that beginners are aware and informed about the potential risks and chemical dangers in perfumery, especially if they have kids or working in a place that is not well ventilated, cool or dry.

[@bkscents7050]

This is a VERY deep discussion. While I do agree a video on this would be helpful, It would be a super long technical video. I usually just tell everyone to follow IFRA standards code of conduct when using any perfumery materials, and all this info on each materials restrictions can be found on their website (usage and restrictions info). For me to do this kind of video, i would hate people to hold me accountable for any material usage if i got certain facts wrong.

[@andrewh175]

“Natural” perfumes are not “better” than synthetic. Rose absolute contains over 400 molecules. I can make a rose accord with 5 synthetics which are much safer and less likely to cause a reaction. Making perfume is generally safe, toxic materials are banned and we aren’t using acid. So the hysteria of the danger of perfume is way overblown.

[@andrewh175]

Also, if linalool is toxic, then don’t eat any fruits or plants. Linalool occurs naturally in nearly everything. Synthetic means it was just taken from another source to keep costs down. Instead of pulling it out of expensive rose absolute, they just get it from cheaper sources.

[@logocracycopy]

@@bkscents7050 sure, makes sense. Something to think about as there isn't a lot of layman's info out there about this. As a beginner myself, I had set up my workstation in my baby's room and realised that it was a bad idea because of ventilation and how overpowering working with these materials can be, I also didn't realise some of them are neurotoxic or trigger allergic reactions. And I should have done more research into the hobby. Secondly, I was inspired by your 'getting started video' (which is great) and ordered a bunch of the scents you recommended. I live in Singapore where imports of some of these chemicals are banned or require a permit to import or you get a fine. I had to work with the government just to get food grade Perfumers Alcohol imported. These are some things that other beginners might find helpful to know when getting started. When working with these materials, like any form of chemistry, there needs to be an emphasis on safety. Maybe a video on how to read a SDS, what words or chemicals to be wary of and tips on how you minimise the potential for an accident/fire in a workspace? Or perhaps bring an expert in from the IFRA for a Q&A with your community, that way it's not you giving the advice.

[@logocracycopy]

@@andrewh175 I never said naturals were better. They are the same. It's about the concentration of the chemical in both absolutes and synthetics. There's clearly a difference between this and what is found in a piece of fruit. The arguement to suggest that just because Linalool is found in fruit makes the oil concentrate of it safe, is irresponsible. A case in point, here is the hazard info in the SDS on Perfumers Apprentice for "Grapefruit Pink - USA": - Flammable Liquid, Hazard Category 3 - Skin Corrosion / Irritation Category 2 - Sensitization - Skin Category 1 - Aspiration Hazard Category 1 -Hazardous to the Aquatic Environment - Acute Hazard Category 1 - Hazardous to the Aquatic Environment - Long-term Hazard Category 1 H226, Flammable liquid and vapour. H304, May be fatal if swallowed and enters airways. H315, Causes skin irritation. H317, May cause an allergic skin reaction. H410, Very toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects. That's a little shocking to read for a fruit-based oil and I just think more education on this is needed from industry commentators in the community. Just because it's fruit, doesn't mean it's safe. It's not about what's natural and what's synthetic. It's about the concentration of the chemicals in even oils you wouldn't normally think.

[@randyhudson1863]

Where can i get the damascones

[@shihanpk2934]

How to make agarwood accord?

[@1stladykeesh332]

Hi,I would like to find out what percentage of base notes do you use in your perfume formulars. Is it a fixed percentage or do they vary? Thanks in advance!

[@bkscents7050]

They vary depending on the perfumes theme. Summer freshies get less ...winter cloying deep scents get more

[@1stladykeesh332]

@@bkscents7050 ok,thank you!

[@gaara2960]

Ohh I have Damascone Beta but I use it on 10% dilution:/.. so I use 1 drop every time when I blend all together, is it already to much?

[@bkscents7050]

Well, in your concentrate formula...how much does it register as you using? How many parts per hundred (or thousand)? One drop of a 10% dilution is fine depending on how big your over all trial size is.

[@gaara2960]

@@bkscents7050 ok, so Im really at the beginning of everything I diluted all of my oils to 20% what I use. But Damascone beta is at 10% . Im trying yet with drops, so I complete with 100 drops and one of them are Damascone beta 10% .

[@extraordinary_scents6806]

Why is longevity measured on a blotter when the duration has no relation to actual timing on skin? I understand that everyone’s skin composition is different but still doesn’t make sense to me.

[@bkscents7050]

It's measured on a blotter paper because it's a constant measurement. As you said, skin is different on everyone....so you can't measure longevity on skin if it varies from person to person. You need a constant piece of medium to measure accurately that won't alter results.....and that is blotter paper

[@extraordinary_scents6806]

@@bkscents7050 Clearly I knew that would be your answer but the difference in performance between paper and skin is so dramatic that I can't imagine it's useful. So, when you're formulating and want a fragrance that dries down smoothly, do you actually use the blotter hours or some percentage of them or some other formula to account for the fact that the user will be spraying it on skin? Hopefully that makes sense. Part of me thinks you could get closer measuring on skin, even with the variances for skin type. etc. I appreciate the response and keep up the great content.

[@bkscents7050]

I always use blotter hours when determining where the material lies in terms of evaporation curve and if it's more of a top/middle/base note (or anything in between)

[@extraordinary_scents6806]

@@bkscents7050 got it, thanks

[@waqarghulam3548]

I get tobacco feel in beta for some reason