Making a 4-jaw lathe chuck

[@marcosantana8756]

Here in Atibaia cudade interiorana of the State of São Paulo in Brazil, I do not lose a video of you. You're the best of them all. This one I copied and mounted my wood lathe, Thanks for sharing your videos, A hug.

[@jackle3002]

I love how he always looks like he just woke up. Makes me feel better about my day. Cool design Matt.

[@cefb8923]

Until I see what he does, maybe we should all look like we just woke up. I do tons of stuff but I see this guy do projects and feel like a complete novice.

[@santiagosantiago6935]

mathias sos un genio la verdad no se me ocurre nada que no puedas hacer no tenes límites con la madera..estoy totalmente agradecido por todo lo que enseñas en tu canal..muchísimas gracias

[@PunkR0ckz09]

Matthias, what about a locknut, washer and a light-duty spring to keep the chuck jaws pressed to the center or outside of the chuck (depending on where you would mount the jaw itself in the assembly) ? would reduce risk of it not retaining the parts.

[@vergelvelasquez]

somebody give this man a medal. Your wood working skills is A+

[@thebosschef1469]

Actually in Canada the grade system is in percent so 100%

[@vergelvelasquez]

you know what I mean! :)

[@jasontofini3412]

+the boss chef we use letter grades...

[@vergelvelasquez]

+Saient do you kiss your mom and wife with that mouth?

[@StefOutside]

Vergel Velasquez Yes.

[@tompalmer334]

Matthias you truly have a magical mind, it must never rest

[@VG-rj8pn]

Mechanical. Not magical. When he can teleport his physical body we can go further

[@hanomag1973]

Made the lathe but found that the interchangeable headstocks cumbersome. So made the headstock holder changeable, much easier

[@matthiaswandel]

Good point. I actually have two headstock holders too - first one used wood screws, the second one anchor bolts.

[@peterstewart9376]

hey matthias, I don't want to badger you about this but I think you can produce some really fine work while still using safe and proper equipment if you bought a couple of turning tools. Frankly, all you need in my opinion is a bowl gouge and a parting tool. You can buy these tools for stupid cheap from a lot of places (penn state industries, amazon, eBay) Cool chuck! Im excited to see how it works on that bowl! Take it easy, Pete

[@WhatsupWayneLWC]

Your build projects are a never ending surprise package for me

[@wassupjg]

What's up Wayne?

[@armiller76]

Mr. Wandel: I went from binge-watching garbage on Netflix to binge-watching your videos. I am so impressed with your work. It's so refreshing to actually watch something from which I can learn practical lessons -- and not just about woodworking, but about problem solving and out-of-the-box thinking. Keep up the excellent work; I look forward to many more hours of enlightenment! Cheers from Michigan!

[@javinturbotch3660]

This guy is the Bob Ross of woodworking. I have no idea how the guy does it but it looks hella tight

[@abc0955867118]

朮雅

[@basgoossen]

Just miss the tree in front of every jig ;-)

[@carolabartz3919]

@@basgoossen w ww efxentrischser eiereierbecher w w w

[@barrywilkinson8470]

You might be able to put a hose clamp around the circumference of the chuck so that if one of the jaws does come loose it'll be stopped by the clamp ?

[@sapelesteve]

Typical Matthias, pure genius as usual! Figure things out as you proceed & change gears in order to make it work. Gotta love it.............Steve

[@A_Stereotypical_Heretic]

You can take a large ring clamp and strap it over the edge of that chuck and tighten it down to prevent any bolts flying out in case one wanted to slip.

[@stevenhardy2898]

Hmmmm...have you considered updateing the shaft to one that would be used with a Nova G3 ? The nice thing about that concept is that if you updated to a beefier lathe...the Nova would be easily reuseable

[@lBonaCl]

There could be a wooden guard around the nuts so they wouldn't fly out if they became loose? Or Nyloc nuts could also be an option.

[@stefkospanjospancic3534]

Matthias super urađena majstorija ,svaka čast bez komentara bravo.

[@OldAndGettingOlder]

This has been a great engineering series. It's amazing to me what you've made.

[@coburnlowman]

That is a nice chuck but the simplicity is Guinness. The way you made the face plate and chuck on the same shaft is neat. This lathe has a different vibe than your other shop tools though. Nothing bad about it but its built in a different fashion than we have seen in your other builds. Thank you for passing along your tallents.

[@Infinityhorus01]

One little tip for you. Use curd soap as a lubricant in your bearings, oil lets the wood swell up and it starts to rott eventually. Curd soap is a better lubricant aswell.

[@matthiaswandel]

+Cofay Mc und Cs:go That's some really bad advice. And oil prevents rot.

[@CorporalPoon]

+Cofay Mc und Cs:go BTFO

[@Infinityhorus01]

+Matthias Wandel Wow, you have no idea. Just give the curd soap a try and you will crawl back to me on your knees for beeing so ignorant. Carpenters use that stuff to lubricate wooden drawers and stuff like that for hundreds of years. And oil WILL mess up your lathe, vegetable oil goes bad after a while and mineral oil does nasty things to wood and plywood too.

[@CorporalPoon]

Cofay Mc und Cs:go master mathhias knows what he's doing

[@chinaman1]

+Cofay Mc und Cs:go you're teaching a fish how to swim.

[@brunoble]

Great one! I really enjoy this. Why don't you put the spacers on the inside? (on either side of the pulley)

[@matthiaswandel]

+brunoble I suppose that would be another alternative.

[@thomassmith4320]

you could put a large hose clamp around the chuck to act as a safeguard to prevent the fingers from flying off if they or the bolt fails

[@RodrigoGomes-ek2ft]

Why you don't use a belt tensioner in your lather? Sorry for the bad English. Greetings from Brazil!

[@matthiaswandel]

+Rodrigo Gomes Explained in a previous video

[@wmose3694]

+Rodrigo Gomes he had said that keeping the belt loose cuts down on vibration from the motor to the lath and it allows the belt to slip if you jam a tool

[@toro5338]

Nice job sir ! 👍😉... Said from an old mechanic. And I did appreciate your way to save plywood !

[@smayjr72]

What about drilling and pinning the threaded rod to ensure that it won't pull out of the wooden chuck?

[@Djtonydraper]

Wow!! Great video..Thanks so much for sharing..These videos are awesome!! I have no idea what your making most of the time but honestly, who cares. Lol. It's so much fun watching you make all this really cool stuff. I think my favorite part of all your videos is watching you make your own little tools to get the job done. Amazing!! I really do enjoy that most.. Thanks again for sharing & keep the videos coming.. :))

[@trench01]

I wont do those things you do ever, but it is a work of art to see you work on your artistic skills.

[@mrnetwurm]

The minimalist in me loves how you build just what's needed and nothing more.

[@jul371-y5p]

spade blades or flat bit are always in inches hard to find it in milimiters and theres no equivalencies between mill and inches you can find a 1inch bit but usually steel rods are 25mm and theres 0,4mm gap 5:27 could have used epoxi glue with the screw then you can unbolt it and use as a nut or could squeze a nut in there with epoxi or wood glue

[@johnbarneswood]

Seriously Matthias, you're the biggest inspiration I have for being creative. Thank you for another great video!

[@maxximumb]

Matthias You could always add a lock ring around the threaded rods, bolts and jaws. Cut a ring from 1/2" plywood that covers the bolts, cut dovetail pins on the inside of the ring. Then cut blind tails into the chuck, equidistant between the jaws . Slide the ring on from the back once the stock is locked in place, then secure with a couple of wood screws through the pins and blind part of the tail.

[@jimm1028]

Incredible. FYI Matthias you have some white foamy stuff outside your windows in the last frames.

[@gamingSlasher]

Fantastic. Use lock nuts with a plastic top or a spring washer to decrease the risk of them loosening while turning.

[@jacklarson6281]

hello metthias, have you ever experienced over heating or burning on the wooden bearings? i know your using oil on them, but im concerned they still might overheat from the friction.

[@matthiaswandel]

that chan happen, yes. Hasn't happened to me.

[@papahonk]

instead of flipping it all the time from jawed side to screw plate side. could you build a screw plate that would fit into your jaws? or is there some reason that i can't see that would prohibit or be dangerous?

[@carmelpule6954]

Brilliant idea as far as design is concerned. Congratulations. I would suggest two thin gauge steel discs screwed on either side, shaped as required, plus a central steel bush with four threads to take the jaw adjusting screws and a hole for the locking pin would make this brilliant design much safer.

[@Handleyman]

I'm surprised too. How on earth did you manage to centre the chuck? I guess I'll have to wait.

[@andregross7420]

+David Handley Adjust the screws till the piece runs true. Just like a metal lathe, it's a little fussy but you get the hang of it quickly.

[@lemagreengreen]

Ever been tempted to try making a scroll chuck Matthias? Think it could be within your ample ability!

[@NolanRyan992]

what is that solution you put on the drill bit before drilling through metal? 3:52

[@matthiaswandel]

+NolanRyan992 oil

[@NolanRyan992]

lol. should have thought. thanks! keep up the great work.

[@irvingcm58]

Brother, What kind of plywood did you say you were using? I have great respect for a "Thinker".

[@GSMSfromFV]

+irvingcm58 __ Go to this link:__ woodgears.ca/lathe/build.html __He uses plywood made of hardwood. He also uses Baltic Birch plywood.

[@irvingcm58]

Okay Thanks

[@L0pzana]

I know it would be really annoying to tighten down, but wouldn't using nylock nuts (or any kind of locknut) to lock the jaws in place make it much safer? In my experience, which I admit is rather limited, nylock nuts don't vibrate free even from rather violent shaking

[@mpikas]

+Matthias Wandel do you have any problems with wear between the metal and the wood surfaces? I'm using a wheel made out of plywood for a crowned tracking wheel on a belt sander/grinder. It rides on a bolt and uses a oilite bushing pressed into the wheel, and that's fine, but the washers on either side of the wheel keep chewing into the sides of the plywood wheel messing up my clearances/alignment.

[@matthiaswandel]

+Mark Pikas I use a polished shaft. So far, no problem. A bolt might not be that smooth, so would do worse.

[@mpikas]

+Matthias Wandel The oilite bushing pressed into the wheel rides on the bolt, and I don't appear to be having wear issues there. It's the fender washers that I put on either side of the wheel are wearing into the sides of the wheel (I believe that you have some washers in your headstock assembly on the thrust surfaces also). The last time I took it apart I polished the surfaces of the washers, but that almost seems like it made it worse, it lasted about 2 weeks of use rather than the months it lasted previously.

[@Rouverius]

+Matthias Wandel Could I ask you about the four jaw chuck design? There seems to be a coupler that is mechanically connected to the shaft by a pin. But it looks like the chuck is only connected to shaft by friction and through the coupler with glue. Is this true or did I miss something in the video? With the amount of shearing force between the chuck and coupler, is the glue strong enough or would you need screw the two together? Or is the use of glue only a design choice to work as a form of breakaway fail-safe?

[@1pcfred]

+Rouverius wood glue is stronger than wood is.

[@Rouverius]

Wow, really? I always thought of the glue being the weak point. Thanks.

[@1pcfred]

Rouverius Well I should clarify that PVA wood glue is stronger than wood is. Some older kinds of glue are weaker. Like hide glue.

[@playersidekick]

I am really enjoying this series of videos. You make this seem so much less intimidating than I thought it would be. Thank you so much

[@Urahara1001]

I did a somewhat similar setup at one point using the stock face plate that came with my lathe and built wooden slides out of scrap red oak for the clamps (I figured the hard wood would be strong enough to hold up with less material, and it was), and used machine screws and washers to screw them down to the face plate. To keep it safe I simply used two nuts on each screw to lock it down. It worked for the piece I needed it to, which was a wand I made out of 1" square stock, but I find the diameter to be too small for bowls given that it is limited by the size of the smallest set of screw holes in the stock face plate. I like this design in that it allows for more use of the available surface area. I think I might make one to use on my lathe, but since I have an existing set up I'll just drill holes to line up with my existing face plate and countersink them for longer machine screws, using the double nut technique again for safety. I'll probably again use either hard wood or possibly metal for my jaws just so I can get a strong piece with less material; I think if you cut a section of pipe to size with an angle grinder, that would give a consistent round to the jaws with about a sixth of the thickness to the material (and thus that much more diameter to work with). I could of course buy a lathe chuck, but they're a bit pricey and my current lathe isn't exactly a high-end machine that I'll want to make that kind of investment on.

[@l.r.norris6519]

Great work. Would it be easier to drill the holes on center before the round cut?

[@williams8369]

hey I'm 13 and am starting carpentry and I only have hand tools I was wondering if u can do a video of u using only manual tools to make a small coffee table

[@matthiaswandel]

+Liam Williams Go watch Paul Sellers.

[@williams8369]

+Matthias Wandel thx

[@scottverge938]

+Liam Williams, Also check out Tom Fidgen

[@williams8369]

+Scott Verge thx

[@chuckufarley5573]

Renaissance wordworks, think woodworks, Tom Fidgen, Paul Sellers, wood and shop, they're are many more, but these will give u a place to start to learn.

[@ybaggi]

I never understood how one could center a piece exactly on these chuck where every one of the four adjusmetn escrews is operated indiviually. I guess it doesn't matter when you start witht a completely raw piece of wood but if the piece is alreadz round and you need to machine it a bit further, how do you center it without a milllion trial and error adjustments? but I'm always impressed at what you come up with.

[@chartle1]

+Yves Baggi I think machinists do it all the time. I think it just involves a dial micrometer.

[@ybaggi]

thanks I'm probably a bit anal about this since I see my self as so unskilled, that I feel I have to rely on precise machinery to align, square and center things for me. cheers

[@1pcfred]

+Cliff Hartle a dial indicator.

[@chartle1]

Paul Frederick yea you're right I

[@1pcfred]

Cliff Hartle I have a few. I do not have a metal lathe though, so I do not use one to center work there. There's two kinds, the push rod, and the lever arm.

[@eCitizen1]

You might want to use hex nylon insert lock nuts to help prevent parts from flying off. Also, a threaded insert for the bolt to screw into with permanent lock tight to hold it in place.

[@LeeHill66]

Nice build . What about using lock nuts on the jaws? Epoxy on the threaded rods.

[@timfoster5043]

Gotta admit I had my doubts on whether a DIY lathe chuck would be any good. Every design I toyed around with in my head had shrapnel potential. I have an ancient Dunlap 9" lathe with a solid bar instead of a threaded axle. I've got a spur bit, but nobody sells a 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck. I'll probably try your method. Thanks.

[@DippinDakota]

I've never been jealous of someone's ability to make things from scratch until I found your channel. I wish I had the intelligence (and patience) you do! I love you videos! Keep them up!

[@JindrichOchmann]

Somewhere I saw longworth chuck. You could make an interesting video about it.

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

I have a few questions. 1) The Birch Plywood you use in this video. Is it 1" thick? 2) Is this the same grade as the big box stores sell or do you have a better supplier? ~~ I have been kicking around the idea of building a wheel polisher. I would have to build a face plate that would handle a 15" wheel clamping it from the outside as your face plate in this video. I think I'd need something more secure and stronger. I am thinking clamping in 5 positions in a star pattern with through bolts and hardwood wedges. I'd love to hear your thought on this. Or MAYBE BUILD ONE so we can see how the master would do it!!! ;) The wheels I want to polish are aluminum and pretty lite weight. But I am wondering if 3/4" is enough or should it be glued to 1.5"?

[@matthiaswandel]

its the same baltic birch plywood that you can buy in some of the big box stores, yes. But it's not regular plywood.

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

The best I can find at the BB stores is 3/4", but it is only 5 ply and from what I have seen it contains many voids. I'd like your thoughts on this as I live a long ways away from a woodworkers lumber yard and don't know that they even have a better grade. Is yours 1" or ????

[@Frisenette]

Tape, elastic band or knotted band around the chuck will secure the nut and jaws.

[@BrainbugRain]

+Helge Frisenette or maybe nylon locknuts

[@tw7522]

Wouldn't you get more torque if you'd use wood gears instead of the belt and the pulleys ?

[@DavidBierdeman]

Why not use locknuts or double nut it? I think the nylon lock nuts would work very well here to ensure the fingers don't fly off. Thanks for the videos Matthias!

[@matthiaswandel]

+David Bierdeman That would be safer, yes. Though more annoying to adjust.

[@riverrat1149]

+Matthias Wandel You do amaze me.I would be a little afraid of vibration working a nut loose.The nylock is going to work your glued bolts more though.....

[@dalem04]

+David Bierdeman Nylock nuts wear out and are a pain to put on and adjust. They're really only meant to be used once or twice.

[@riverrat1149]

I understand this.I also understand the pain of a face full of wood.I think the honest reason is that they would probably work the thread stock out of the chuck.This man amazes me but i think he is bat shit crazy trying this.lol

[@vasudevbadiger8970]

@@dalem04 ಝಿಒ Jio

[@hasmukhvpatel4539]

How can you run Induction Brushless whirlpool washing machine Motor ? To run Wooden Lathe like your?

[@sn0tkore]

Would it be difficult to put a perspex guard around the chuck?

[@avalonbear61]

I purchased the plans yesterday, and WOW are they nice. I am so looking forward to this build . Only problem is I don't read metric well. That maybe something on your plans that could be added on later.

[@matthiaswandel]

+avalonbear61 See section in plans "why the plans are in metric". Fractional units are not not practical for machine designs.

[@massimookissed1023]

avalonbear, get a cheap calculator and store 25.4 in the memory. Divide millimetres by 25.4 to get inches. Fractions of inches you'll have to figure out yourself, or get decimal and get used to metricity :)

[@arminkeller]

wouldn't it have been better to cut the dovetail to the smallest raid possible rather than the largest? I would think a small radius would hold large stock better than vice versa. Or maybe not. Thoughts?

[@arminkeller]

radius*

[@matthiaswandel]

+Armin Keller If I cut it with the smallest possible radius, it would only touch on the corners with a larger workpiece. Better to cut it large radius, so it touches on the middle for smaller workpieces.

[@arminkeller]

Ya, I was thinking the corners would grip better. But I guess it would make the jaw more likely to break at the corners.

[@2testtest2]

+Armin Keller It is stronger the way Matthias did it. As he says, if the radius was too small it would only touch at the corner, and they could break off more easily.

[@Reese_Asher]

*Man I tell you this guy got SOME SKILLZ*

[@Felipera_]

but the real question is: how many wood chunks would a wooden wood Chuck Chuck?

[@bogsdolics]

Hi Matthias looking good, for the safety issue you could make a guard .G

[@sooth15]

I don't think there's too much chance of the bolts coming out. If anything they might be prone to slowly unscrewing themselves slowly over time, so you'd just need to check them every so often. I think that as long as you're turning smallish stock with this, it should be fine.

[@robertvernon2186]

I have never used one of those types of chucks, but I'm gonna share my idea of them anyway. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems that all of the jaws on factory built ones are synchronized so that they all move in and out 100% in unison. If that is indeed correct, then if you can't duplicate that, then what is the point?

[@davidskinner5269]

+Robert Vernon 4 Jaw Chucks are almost always independent like that, more versatile in holding oddly shaped items. While 3 Jaw Chucks are almost always synchronized.

[@nikolaihedler8883]

Four-jaw chucks are typically independent, actually, because that way you can adjust them to center an asymmetric workpiece.

[@SceneArtisan]

To prevent your chuck grips from potentially flying out - just wrap a piece of small tyre inner tube tightly around the chuck. ;) Just make sure it's easily put on and offable when you need to access the chuck bolts.

[@esotericsean]

+Kris A (londongamer) That's a great idea. You could maybe even make small holes in the inner tube where the bolts are for tightening.

[@StutleyConstable]

+Kris A (londongamer) Or you could use an oversized hose clamp. That way you could tighten it down as much as necessary and easily remove it when it was time to release the nuts.

[@alandouglas104]

+StutleyConstable a hose clamp is not perfectly balanced. youll throw a wrench in things for sure

[@SceneArtisan]

+StutleyConstable There's a potential flaw in your idea though,... (ok, mine has too, but for a different reason). Your idea has the single screw-down part, it would potentially throw the chuck off balance while it was spinning, causing vibration. Though TWO hose clamps might prevent it, in fairness. Yet there'd still be screws which may (or may not), be susceptible to failure under the stresses of high RPM.

[@StutleyConstable]

Kris A I think we're seeing something like 300 to 500 RPM. The screw in a hose clamp is unlikely to fail at that speed, especially since the stress would be lateral to the shank of the screw. I also think a single hose clamp would be fine on a machine made primarily from wood, however, I agree that using two hose clamps would balance things out and reduce the risk of vibration.

[@MrVailtown]

By adding a cut piece off of old Bicycle tube n stretch over nut/bolts/clamps could be a safety guard, if Bicycle is too small use a wheelbarrow tire tube. Or a Valco strip overlapped ???? Rapped around ?

[@10175978]

+MrVailtown should be able to get O-rings in a few big sizes to work or, just use some good heavy duty rubber bands for the same effect on the cheap.

[@MrVailtown]

+Channel+ great idea ty

[@abubee1018]

I've been keeping up with your channel for a couple of months, watched every video. I'm into wood turning myself so when I saw you were making a "series" on a wooden lathe I was so excited. I've always wondered if it was possible to make a jaw chuck out of wood, now you've proven it. Now, you have to show me you can make a drill press.

[@hunterbowie8132]

Could a lathe like this with metal bearings and a tool post work soft metals? Always wanted to have one but the price for entry is a little high. Something like this i could build would be awesome.

[@DrNinjajim]

I like and appreciate all of your videos. I am mainly a woodturner, and so this latest series on the lathe is particularly awesome! Great work.

[@eltonherrera7524]

Wow! Best wood home made chuck I seen anybody make so far. Real good stuff man.

[@timothymcswain6235]

I don't know why you had doubt, you made it right , nice

[@henrikandersson1299]

Neat build! To make the usage a bit safer, how about buying a long drill bit and drill the holes for the threaded rod straight through? Thats for the jaws 1+3 and 2+4, they have to be a bit off from each other. Then the force from clamping will be through a solid piece of rod for each pair=> the risk of getting hurt decreases and clamping force and confidence increases! This chuck model must be 3 times easier to build compared to the "Longworth chuck" + adjustable for 0 run out! //H

[@ugoleftillgorite]

I think roller skate bearings (608's) would be pretty accessible (assuming that is the reason you gave yourself limitations on this build). I build the head and tailstock of my first lathe using them, spent all of $2 at a garage sale for the donor roller blades.

[@matthiaswandel]

+Matthew S Those only have a 8 mm hole. The shaft I'm using here is 16 mm.

[@ugoleftillgorite]

Matthias Wandel Good point. Great build so far, you addressed quite a few issues that I ran into.

[@brianhambleton9309]

Hey Matthias, why not a Longworth chuck? L/w seems infinitely more elegant than this and no more complex to build. I'd be interested to hear your reasoning on this. Thanks.

[@matthiaswandel]

+Brian Hambleton no holding power on a longworth

[@brianhambleton9309]

+Brian Hambleton Sounds like we need a comparison video.

[@jjcc8379]

Why not make a protection ring that you put over the outer diameter of the chuck ? (edit: like a "C" piece you put AFTER adjusting the pieces). If anything comes flying it would just hit that barrier. Like a mudguard on a car or a bike.

[@jonaswilmart3326]

Nice work, You should use a large, heavy duty rubberband or inner tubing around the chuck to keep any loose bolt to flight across the room!

[@anoirnunesdesouza9074]

hello my friend matthias wandel I'm an admirer of your projects I live in Brazil and I try to copy your work because I think it's very interesting that it's a shame that I do not speak your language and your video is in English + anyway I do not stop sharing hugs

[@DaveGatton]

I have really enjoyed your lathe build videos. Good job Matthias.

[@isaiascervantes7721]

Uii>Imu

[@alvinvin5513]

Mantaaaap

[@rayladouceur8000]

I'm not at all surprised that it worked. Nicely done!

[@A13tech]

how much cost plywood in your "local shop" ? in our country are plywoods expensive like hell.

[@1pcfred]

+A13tech then it would be profitable for you to setup a plywood factory. Or perhaps an import business to ship plywood?

[@kadmow]

If you are worried about the nuts flying off just make a removable metal guard to cover the chuck whilst in use. NB. if the nuts come loose you're likely to realise it a long time before they "fly off" (Ouut), the job will get a "mite" eccentric first.

[@GeorgeGardinier]

i haven't seen this before, with all of the pounding of the mallet , have you taught the baby to sleep through it

[@matthiaswandel]

+George Gardinier She sleeps through it no problem

[@wantu2much]

+Matthias Wandel I have heard that if you live your normal life, before they are 6 months old, like making your usual sounds.The baby will learn to tune them out.

[@letmecommentalready]

+Anthony Pfohl Exactly true - don't try to be silent around your sleeping kid, be your normal sound level self and they will adapt, which is amazing when they get older!

[@aserta]

+Matthias Wandel Use Nyloc nuts for the chuck. Nothing will come loose if you do that.

[@MojeToczenieBartoszSokoow]

Cały cykl filmów o budowie tokarki jest super. To pokazuje, że jak się chce, to można wszystko :D

[@christopheleblanc9175]

lock nuts would be safer choice ???? great job

[@PlayNowWorkLater]

Have you ever considered building a Longworth style Chuck? I think it’s more up your alley for style and logistics. Just a thought.

[@aubreyj.tennant1123]

You might consider locktite to prevent the nuts 🔩 from coming loose. Really great 👍 vid!

[@l3oogle]

Cool, please make a pepper grinder. Try coating the jaws in silicone or put small rubber bands over them for grip and longevity.

[@RRinTN]

I'm not surprised it worked... you succeed much more often than not. I always enjoy your videos... keep them coming.

[@Makebuildmodify]

I now have a new respect for what can be done with wood.

[@МанюАх]

Оправдается

[@МанюАх]

Еатр

[@chakibess1044]

ممطنمدزظ د تن

[@chakibess1044]

،-زءش

[@tomscorner3838]

You make it look so easy.

[@poptartmcjelly7054]

Have you thought of using drink can aluminum to improve the bushings in your lathe ?

[@matthiaswandel]

+Poptart McJelly I don't think it would be an improvement.

[@suzukiontario9609]

Great job! How did this chuck hold up?

[@ScrapwoodCity]

Awesome! That's a beautiful chuck, can't wait to watch it in action on that bowl!

[@น้อยจําปาวัน]

พอนิ้เจิ้อ กด

[@ricardocauilan4902]

i like its good

[@ricardocauilan4902]

awesome

[@zbsbees6482]

How long is the shaft you use for the pulley?

[@davidsmart8594]

Nice job, Matthias, but I predict the jaws of your chuck will deteriorate rapidly. How about making them out of hardwood? (They take an awful lot of load...)

[@matthiaswandel]

+David Smart They are already made out of hardwood plywood

[@davidsmart8594]

Matthias Wandel Hmm...I meant 'solid' wood, such as maple or cherry. I'm not dissing plywood, but it's really not appropriate here because of the direct load exerted on it every time you touch the workpiece with the cutting tool. Good luck.

[@woodsprout]

Where are these polished rods from? Nice project!

[@gr8dvd]

+woodsprout I've bought both threaded and plain rod from a home center in USA-NJ... rhymes with repo :) Others probably have a wider selection.

[@woodsprout]

Thanks, I have seen threaded and plain at hardware stores and Gnome Depot ;-D but not the polished rods like this. Could both the sizes he used come from a printer?

[@borborapurbajyoti8588]

Is that motir is a sewing machine motor?

[@anormaldayinanormallife7564]

Why didnt you use Squarenuts inside the chuck to prevent that the 4 screws fly off it. Just 4 little slots inside it should hold better tha glued Screws

[@matthiaswandel]

+anormalday inanormallife Because there is only so much wood there, and I didn't want to weaken it by cutting away more of it.