Mazda 3 Service, 2010 1.6 Diesel

How to a service on a 2nd Gen Mazda 3. This is a manual 2010 Mazda 3 1.6D UK Specification. This service will show how to change:
oil and oil filter.
Air filter.
Cabin/pollen filter

[@ryanh3285]

Thanks very much for your help I think I will order that fault code reader you suggested and check all the other things. Ive serviced cars before so im not to bad. But I always find it better to ask people with experience on a specific make and model like yourself. Thanks again 👍

[@marcsmith297]

Very good video. Most informative and clear speech. Well done.

[@robertbennett9949]

Thank you very much. Essential watching.

[@SemioticRecords]

Great video, thanks mate. Really useful for novices like me :)

[@ryanh3285]

I brought the scan tool you suggested and had no codes at all. I cleaned the air filter out it wasn't to bad but had a little bit of oil around the in take. My car hasn't cut out since but it just feels a bit laggy and hesitant. Im going to service the car when the weather gets better and hope that improves it.

[@ryanh3285]

Thanks it's for future reference. I have just brought the same car and will be doing my own servicing and basic maintenance.

[@seriously-learntodrive]

I've had a look at the Mazda 3 2010 engine. The fuel filter is bolted to the engine on the right hand side (when standing in front of the car and looking at the windscreen). It is under the plastic shield towards the back and opposite the battery. It is an all in one unit which means unlike the Mazda 6 were you replace the filter cartridge, you replace the whole unit, this includes electrical connections etc. The unit is pricey, costing around £60-75 (eurocarparts/halfords) but you will only need to replace this every 60,000 miles according to the maintenance schedule. As it is on the side of the engine it is much easier to get to, compared to the Mazda 6 as you won't have to remove the battery. Hope this helps

[@ryanh3285]

Topman. Thanks for the information.

[@bogdanmiletic43]

Good video,will help lots

[@laverdanick]

Thank you for the video, it was most helpful. The oil and filter setup is identical on the UK 2011 1.6 diesel 8 valve engine. I just bought the car and thought, where have they hidden the oil filter? My Honda CRV has a similar plastic oil housing, but that is at the front of the engine, just under the bonnet. Much better design.

[@Pody.]

Thank you bro 👋🏼

[@GeorgeBabiy]

Brilliant video! Very useful. Any chance someone could direct me to oxygen sensor on 1.6 tdi 2010 Mazda please?

[@wasif1182]

Does the bottom cabin filter have to slide into the guiding rails of the top cabin filter?

[@amarmujak7046]

Great video , i have a slightly newer one with 116 hp :) , can you also do and record fuel filter change ? Regarding fuel filter , they changed it from whole unit to metal cartrige one on mine .

[@seriously-learntodrive]

I have added a video on how to change the fuel filter for a 2010 1.6 Mazda 3 diesel.

[@tomwest1014]

What size socket fits the oil filter. You never said

[@PauloGambo]

Great video. I think that the oil you put is not the 100% ideal, needs to be 5w30 but c2 not c1.

[@ryanh3285]

Good video, I've just brought the same car. Is the fuel filter easy to change?

[@seriously-learntodrive]

I have not changed the fuel filter on this car however, I have changed it on the Mazda 6 2009 model, which I have done a video for: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWfSmqWEfamEmtE. I will check and get back to you to see if it is similar.

[@seriously-learntodrive]

I have now added a video on how to change the fuel filter

[@ryanh3285]

Does anyone know if a 4 litre bottle of oil is enough? From what I can see the capacity is 3.8 litres oil. Their is much better deals online for 4litres of low saps oil. Thanks.

[@darshandhonsi9840]

For the 1.6L d the oil capacity is about 3.8L and for the 2.2L diesel it is 4.7L. Don't forget that the figure quoted is without the oil filter change. If you change the oil filter you need to about 0.4L extra.

[@ryanh3285]

Darshan Dhonsi thanks very much. I'll go with 4 litres then.

[@ahmedelfeituri7681]

Just got the same car ,and i was wondering , is the oil in this video used for both petrol and diesel, or this oil is just for diesel engines? and what does C1 stands for?

[@seriously-learntodrive]

C1 means low saps. It stand for Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous, and Sulphur. If you have a diesel particular filter (dpf) you want low saps otherwise I'm told by Mazda the filter will clog up more frequently. I think both the diesel and petrol take the same viscosity oil: 5w 30

[@ivankrizan9233]

Thank you so much!

[@ryanh3285]

My 2010 1.6 diesel is losing all power when I accelarate. Its happened a few times. I have no engine fault code on the dash and it always starts again straight away. Have you ever seen or heard of this issue?

[@seriously-learntodrive]

Can you give me some more information. Which of the following happens: 1) Your driving along, you put you foot down and the car speeds up very very slowly, but your accelerator is planted to the floor. 2) Your driving along, you put you foot down and the car speeds up and then you start losing speed. Also, if you are driving along at a constant speed and you put your air conditioning on (assuming your vehicle has it) does it lose power?

[@ryanh3285]

No to the 1st 2 and it doesn't lose power when you switch the air con on as far as I can tell but I will check this again when I get chance. It has happened 3 times about 5 to 10 minutes after starting the car and driving i have been in 2nd or 3rd gear and accelarate the revs go up and then all power dies(as if the ignition has been turned off and I lose power steering. Then it starts straight back up. Thanks.

[@seriously-learntodrive]

Does not sound like a fuel delivery problem, however, it does not mean that it is. I noticed that you have no engine fault code on the dash, however you may have an engine fault code that the computerised engine control system will have recorded. You will need to connect OBD (On Board Diagnostic) reader to the OBD port. If you don't know where that is you can google it. These readers range in price and you have to choose one that will be compatible. I have used the following: Autophix OM123 DiagnosticCode Reader & Reset Tool, it costs about £70 but does a good job, other readers that are cheaper are available. If there is a recorded fault code this will tell you what it is. Or you can go to garage and ask them to do it for you, but they will charge you for it.Without a fault code it could be any number of things, so start by checking the easiest things first. 1) Check air filter is good and not blocked. 2) Check to see if there are any lose or disconnected hoses. 3) Check your battery connections are tight.4) check electrical connections, there will be alot of them and even inside the car. So check them whereever you see them. After this it become more difficult as most things are now electronically controlled. So if i were you, try get a hold of the reader or go to a garage to get them to check it.

[@ronm3671]

Ryan Hewitt mine did something similar, i would be sitting in lights, Green...go..get up to 2500 revs in 2nd then total power loss...limp in to the side..... restart alls okay again.... this happened once a day. the cure: new fuel filter (valeo) cleaned main air flow sensor (MAF). the problem never returned. 😉

[@ryanh3285]

Ron M thanks for information I was going to clean the maf I will change the fuel filter as soon as the weather gets a bit better. Did you do it yourself?

[@31jon1959]

13 PLATE HOW MANY FUEL FILTERS

[@darshandhonsi9840]

Only one fuel filter located on right hand side of engine. To replace it comes as a complete unit. That is filter plus the housing and cost £50-70. I will try and find a picture for you regarding the location. If I don't get back to you then contact me to remind me as very busy at the moment.

[@31jon1959]

Darshan Dhonsi thanks for reply wasnt sure

[@tahirmahmood6316]

Thank you ❤