Mazda CX-7 Timing chain replacement and turbo rebuild part 1 - Teardown

Part 1 of replacing the timing chain and rebuilding the turbo on a 2009 Mazda CX7 with the MZR 2.3 DISI Turbo (L3-VDT) engine.This car has a stretched timing chain and the Turbo is injecting oil into the intake, both very common problems with TSBs from Mazda. Symtpoms are a rattling/knocking noise under 2000 RPM and Excessive oil consumption and smoke out the tailpipe.
Part 2 here: • Mazda CX-7 Timing chai...
Part 3 here: • CX-7 Timing chain and ...
Related Videos:
Turbo CHRA (cartridge) replacement: • Mazda CX-7 Turbo repai...
How to make Mazda sst303-507 timing peg: • How to make Mazda/Ford...
Oil burning diagnosis: • Mazda CX-7 MZR 2.3 DIS...
Mazda TSBs:
Timing chain: 01-053/10
VVT: 01-010/11
Timing chain and VVT: 01-012/12
Turbo: SB-01-001-11 / SSP-86
Applies to:
2006-2012 Mazda CX-7
Similar to:
2005-2007 Mazda6 MPS/Mazdaspeed6
2006-2012 Mazdaspeed3
And any Vehicle with the MZR 2.3 DISI turbo engine. (L3-VDT)
Other videos with this car:
Speaker replacement: • Mazda CX-7 Speaker rep...
Aux port repair: • How to fix the aux por...
Window motor replacment: • Mazda CX-7 Window Moto...
Inner CV boot replacement: • Replacing an inner CV ...
Timing chain replacement and turbo rebuild: • Mazda CX-7 Timing chai...
Lubricating brake pad sliders and caliper guide pins: • Video
P2006 Cause and fix: • Mazda CX-7 p2006 cause...
Testing window motors: • How to test Mazda wind...

[@duaneafields]

I want to say thank you for your videos on the cx-7 pfun. The family and I have the same issues and although we have a Civic as a great running backup, its a small car, this 2008 cx7 has been sitting and being unused. Yesterday, I took off the lower cat and saw the carbon gunk. I see the huge amount of oil in the inlet housing for the intercooler. Turbo is shot, looked just like yours. Car is sluggish with very little power to pull into traffic and takes a mile to get up to 65mph. It will not rev like any vehicle while it park, it slowly ramps up and boggs down. The car was displaying bad behavior, so we stopped driving it. Bought a scotty kilmer suggested THINKOBD 100 on amazon for $40, nice unit. Hooked it up to our perfect running civic, wrote down every live data value (37 of them) and also the values when I accelerate to 3000rpm from a 760 rpm idle, while sitting in the driveway air cond on. Then moved to the CX7 and did the same thing on my paper. This showed me a good value compared to a bad value with voltage, temp, pressures, fuel trims short and long...etc, by the way 3% short term fuel trim and 21% long term fuel trim is not normal, I read this two values need to be at or close to zero as possible, its how much the ecu is feeding the injectors so to save the engine, based on the maf and o2 sensors. I learned a lot doing this back and forth on the two cars, it did take more than a couple hours and glasses of my wifes sweet tea. Pulled the codes on the cx-7 and got p2177,p 21278, p301 misfire, p0137 o2 sensor low volt, p2096 post cat fuel trim lean, p2187 sys too lean bank 1. With that info and your video, today is the day I pull the turbo and the cat that is attached to it. With your 3 videos here and videos on youtube from World Mechanics, Auto Repair Guys, Eric the Car Guy and others, I believe I can get this done. I have this week bought: 2 new O2 sensors, new air cleaner, new MAF, took out the pcv valve (and replaced w a new one from UNDER the vehicle which took 1 solid our and was very tight and difficult without breaking the clip), bought new ignition coils also, all this and when starting the car, it did the same thing w codes erased. THis tells me I should have watched your videos first or brought it to you ;-) Im writing all this to say thanks for your videos and to help the next guy or gal attempting to fix their 33K dollar grand touring car (way too much money for this mazda/ford tech). The update on parts...I ordered a new Turbo Charger K0422-882 for Mazda 3 6 CX7 CX-7 2.3L MZR DISI 53047109905, it will be here next week, i'll chime in here and tell you it solved our problems and I also ordered a new Cat Mazda CX-7 2.3L Manifold Catalytic Converter OBDII 2007-2009 DirectFit 5H40880 to go along with it. I wanted to do what you did here and replace the cartridge but for $150, ill try the china version...why? well this borg warner oem junk only lasted 88k miles on our well taken care of car, so if a China one lasts 20 to 40k more miles (after fixed) I'd be pleased with that, because I know what to look for now. I was going to clean the cat scotty kilmer style, but thought, the hell with it, everything else will be new, it should be new too. I havent looked at the VVT timing issues and faulty ecu mosfet problems I keep reading about, errrr. I sure in the hell hope for a positive result here PFUN, because im using dozens of red towels taking whore baths at the kitchen sink with gojo super max and lava soap , my wife is losing faith in my, "honey, I'm gonna fix it" skills and I keep drinking up all the sweet tea in the Georgia summer heat.

[@servandolaurel9987]

What great work, thanks for the video. It clarifies so much.

[@ricardopastrana48]

Thanks 4 the video it was so helpful

[@luisernestouseche3493]

Excelente trabajo felicitaciones

[@frederickczajka573]

Notes from a my recent experience: 2011 Mazda CX7 2.3L Turbocharged. First as everyone else has stated this engine if a MF to work on. So many things in the way that you have to get out of the way just to get to the "main" nine nuts/studs, it is frankly ludicrous. Order the nine replacement studs/nuts up front so you don't have to worry about buggering up the old ones trying to get them out and/or breaking them. Other note on these nine nuts/studs make sure you hit them with some PB Blaster the day before you get to the removing them, it will make life a lot easier. Once I got all of the bolts, nuts, lines, and other items out of the way I was able to pull the turbo out to right (drivers side). I had removed both the battery box and breather box to do this as dropping it to the bottom was even more frightening. Once again, if you look at something attached in the area around the turbo and think, meh I will just work around it, don't just pull it, bag and label it. As it will be in the way for multiple other items that you are going to have to pull. Putting it back together I have been very generous with the anti-seize. The replacement nuts/studs come in three packs, so you will want to buy three packages: Dorman Turbocharger Stud 03418 Other tools you might want to stock up on: 8mm and 10 mm sockets mainly in the 1/4" drive range including deep well ones, I also got extra 8mm and 10 mm sockets in 3/8" drive, I managed to find 8mm in deep well and normal lengths. Socket drive adapters to go up and down from 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" (extras if you can afford). Drive extensions for 1/4" and 3/8" in many lengths including real ones as some times you will need less than a deep well and more than a normal socket length. If you can find them 8mm and 10mm ratching wrench's. I went and bought another one that was longer at the Blue Box that worked quite well. A flexible magnetic pickup device. You can rent the O2 sensor removal tool at the Zone or one of its competitors. And finally, as Obi Wan would say: patience (store it up as much as possible as you will need it) and you will need more time than you estimate.

[@nevillebartos2858]

Wow what a nightmare job. Glad I bought the 2.5L non turbo model, won't break any land speed records but reliable as the sun coming up.

[@duaneafields]

You don't know how lucky you are. worst 30k dollars we ever spent. no more turbo for us.

[@thommygun999]

im going to use this

[@JP-it9ie]

Bought a cx7 yesterday. And it died today. Really bad rattling noise accured while cruising. Turned it off and towed to home. Will start to take engine apart tomorrow. Hope its only chain and vvt. But propably not. :(

[@kowilkins]

I have an '07 (88k miles) and had it begin making noise yrs ago and have never done anything about it...since the dealer wouldn't warranty it...how long ago did yours begin?

[@pfun41]

It was with my sister in NC for a year, and when it came back and was passed off to me to sell it had noise. so no idea. But if you ignore the timing chain long enough the chain will jump time, damage the case or break. Its basically a waiting game to see how long before it lets go and kills the engine. VVT noise is annoying but as long as it hasn't taken a chunk out of the actuator its more of a nuisance than anything else.

[@redfrack346]

I had to have this done last year. I now see the aggravation my mechanics had to deal with. My '07 cx7 currently has 184,000 miles on it.

[@dominickollar3121]

Great video man. The TDC pin is in, locking pin in, locking plate on BUT the intake side on the locking plate was a struggle to get in and you can still see about half a millimetre gap between the groove on the shaft and the locking plate on one side (so not perfectly horizontal), i cant turn the shaft any more to get it to easily slide in. Is this going to cause an issue or is it just because the timing is currently so gone?

[@pfun41]

You want it as close to perfect as possible. If it's just the teeniest bit off it might not be a big deal as long as the computer doesn't start throwing cam/crank correlation codes.

[@dominickollar3121]

@@pfun41awesome. Thanks again.

[@mikestafford4279]

What all specialty tools do you need for this job, and can you rent them at autozone

[@pfun41]

Check description and no

[@BassFraud]

@pfun41 question, I placed the TDC bolt in on the left side and turned the motor till it stopped and aligned the cams so the tool can fit in however the pulley is still slight off and not aligned with the hole where you put the screw/ratchet strap. Is it safe to remove the pulley and just align it when re-installing?

[@pfun41]

yes

[@BassFraud]

@@pfun41 thanks for the response, I aligned the balancer while the plate was at TDC however when I turned the motor twice and placed the TDC “bolt” when touching the bolt it was never aligned correctly. Car drives however when I reach a stop it shuts off. I’m guessing it’s a wiring or electrical issue I may have caused when messing with the wiring because my thought would be if the timing was off it wouldn’t even drive or idle any good.

[@runoak4621]

what did you hook the other end of the ratchet strap on...and how tight did you get it

[@pfun41]

I really don't remember, just whatever is in the right spot that's really solid. Just tight enough to take out the slack so it doesn't move when the impact wails on that bolt.

[@runoak4621]

@@pfun41 what did u use to hold the tention pulley to get the bolt out

[@pfun41]

@@runoak4621 If your talking about the serpentine belt tensioner once the belt is off you can just remove it like normal. The tensioner is keyed so it stays in one spot.

[@motivation201212]

At 9:40, what part/hose is that called that you removed? I think it’s attached to the intake manifold

[@pfun41]

Vacuum hose to the brake booster

[@motivation201212]

pfun41 thank you!!!

[@SukhwinderSingh-yb3ks]

@@motivation201212 where are you located

[@kevinbillington5919]

Is the car Mazda AWD? I have Mazda 2010 CX7 AWD and rhe underneath doesn't look the same. I've found it impossible to remove one of the oil return bolts without engine removal. Do you have any reccomendations?

[@pfun41]

FWD

[@Keepin-it-wheel101]

What impact wrench did you buy for this crank bolt? Looks like a husky... is it 1/2 or 3/4?

[@pfun41]

Husky 1/2" drive twin hammer 800 Ft-lbs

[@Keepin-it-wheel101]

@@pfun41, thank you for the information. I have the exact same one 800 foot pounds. Is good to know is capable of this job.

[@migratorygame7400]

I've got a big oil leak on the drive side of my motor it's a 07 Mazda cx7 it only leaks when running seems more like it leaks while driving. Would u have any idea what it could be??? I'm leaning towards the valve cover but its leaking alot

[@pfun41]

Probably front main seal

[@migratorygame7400]

Is that hard to change?? Its running all over the top of the transmission but deffinly only leake while driving. I cleaned all the oil up and let it run for a min didnt see any leaks took a quick ride and it was covered again

[@pfun41]

@@migratorygame7400 Over transmission could be rear main or valve cover. Mains are hard to change on this engine.

[@migratorygame7400]

Thanks for the help. I gonna tear it down this weekend. Looks like its coming from the top of the motor.

[@tyahammond3208]

I got this car in December within the first couple of weeks it started to run bad. Took it to the dealership had a couple recalls that they did for free. But with a long list of other things that totaled out to be over 8k. So I took it to autozone for a diagnosis three codes appeared vvt, ignition coils, spark plugs. I changed these myself and I don’t have any experience just watching KZbin videos. Drove great one day than started back dropping speed took it to a local shop and they told me the timing belt and lifters. So my question do you think I can do this myself or just bite the bullet and pay to get it fix? Is this a job for a beginner?

[@pfun41]

Get a second opinion. Timing chain issues usually just result in noise not lack of power.

[@tyahammond3208]

pfun41 it won’t get pass 20 mph

[@duaneafields]

@@tyahammond3208 This may help you, we took it to Bush Mazda in Jacksonville FL last week, 150 diagnostic...are you ready...the grand total they want to fix the same things you are talking about is..$16,471.93. I shit you not, Mazda owners are my favorite turds. They also said cyl 3 was slightly out of range of the other cyldrs. Here is what I wrote today to pFun... good luck with your car, amazon and ebay will be your new friends. I want to say thank you for your videos on the cx-7 pfun. The family and I have the same issues and although we have a Civic as a great running backup, its a small car, this 2008 cx7 has been sitting and being unused. Yesterday, I took off the lower cat and saw the carbon gunk. I see the huge amount of oil in the inlet housing for the intercooler. Turbo is shot, looked just like yours. Car is sluggish with very little power to pull into traffic and takes a mile to get up to 65mph. It will not rev like any vehicle while it park, it slowly ramps up and boggs down. The car was displaying bad behavior, so we stopped driving it. Bought a scotty kilmer suggested THINKOBD 100 on amazon for $40, nice unit. Hooked it up to our perfect running civic, wrote down every live data value (37 of them) and also the values when I accelerate to 3000rpm from a 760 rpm idle, while sitting in the driveway air cond on. Then moved to the CX7 and did the same thing on my paper. This showed me a good value compared to a bad value with voltage, temp, pressures, fuel trims short and long...etc, by the way 3% short term fuel trim and 21% long term fuel trim is not normal, I read this two values need to be at or close to zero as possible, its how much the ecu is feeding the injectors so to save the engine, based on the maf and o2 sensors. I learned a lot doing this back and forth on the two cars, it did take more than a couple hours and glasses of my wifes sweet tea. Pulled the codes on the cx-7 and got p2177,p 21278, p301 misfire, p0137 o2 sensor low volt, p2096 post cat fuel trim lean, p2187 sys too lean bank 1. With that info and your video, today is the day I pull the turbo and the cat that is attached to it. With your 3 videos here and videos on youtube from World Mechanics, Auto Repair Guys, Eric the Car Guy and others, I believe I can get this done. I have this week bought: 2 new O2 sensors, new air cleaner, new MAF, took out the pcv valve (and replaced w a new one from UNDER the vehicle which took 1 solid our and was very tight and difficult without breaking the clip), bought new ignition coils also, all this and when starting the car, it did the same thing w codes erased. THis tells me I should have watched your videos first or brought it to you ;-) Im writing all this to say thanks for your videos and to help the next guy or gal attempting to fix their 33K dollar grand touring car (way too much money for this mazda/ford tech). The update on parts...I ordered a new Turbo Charger K0422-882 for Mazda 3 6 CX7 CX-7 2.3L MZR DISI 53047109905, it will be here next week, i'll chime in here and tell you it solved our problems and I also ordered a new Cat Mazda CX-7 2.3L Manifold Catalytic Converter OBDII 2007-2009 DirectFit 5H40880 to go along with it. I wanted to do what you did here and replace the cartridge but for $150, ill try the china version...why? well this borg warner oem junk only lasted 88k miles on our well taken care of car, so if a China one lasts 20 to 40k more miles (after fixed) I'd be pleased with that, because I know what to look for now. I was going to clean the cat scotty kilmer style, but thought, the hell with it, everything else will be new, it should be new too. I havent looked at the VVT timing issues and faulty ecu mosfet problems I keep reading about, errrr. I sure in the hell hope for a positive result here PFUN, because im using dozens of red towels taking whore baths at the kitchen sink with gojo super max and lava soap , my wife is losing faith in my, "honey, I'm gonna fix it" skills and I keep drinking up all the sweet tea in the Georgia summer heat.

[@Darthvolvo]

This car had a hard life for such low miles. I hope you are getting paid for all of this work.

[@UBBERTANKER]

Buying a clean 07 cx7 for 1k with a bad turbo good deal?

[@pfun41]

I Honestly wouldn't recommend buying one of these vehicles. But If that's all it needs then sure.

[@SukhwinderSingh-yb3ks]

I got 2011 , cx7 , 120 km very clean for sale

[@connorc4974]

My CX-7 is at 84,000 miles and needs a timing chain replacement as well. The mechanic is quoting 1500-2000$ to get this done. Is this a rip off? How much should it cost typically?

[@pfun41]

Its about 400-500 in parts + labor. That's a little high unless repairs typically cost more in your area. most reports I hear are around 1k.

[@giggygiggy1393]

I had this done than less than a year ago and cost me $1500.....in Australia.....

[@kellyconnors564]

Was just told yesterday from dealership that VVT actuator and timing chain are going and to have engine replaced around 6500. Is it worth looking for a rebuilt engine? I'm at 131000 and have had several other issues fixed in the past three years. Mazda cx 7 2008

[@pwrstrkcmmns]

@@andreaandmikekendrick8986 quit crying

[@SukhwinderSingh-yb3ks]

@@giggygiggy1393 can you please recommend where is macanic located. ,

[@spragzpc1]

I got my Mazda cx7 2007 as a wedding gift back in 2007, it was my first car.I own 3 cars now but still try to preserve the Mazda because of sentimental value ..but my God wtf was mazda thinking when they put this engine together 😢 ever a thermostat replacement is complicated

[@pfun41]

They took a 2.3 from ford and put a bunch of stuff on it and it became unreliable.

[@zcopeland3928]

How long does it take to fix this

[@pfun41]

Between teardown, sourcing parts, and finding time it was down 3 weeks. I'd say plan a few days at least. The turbo especially is a PITA

[@frederickczajka573]

@@pfun41 Super Pita!

[@robespn9018]

Did you have to drain the coolant to do any of this. Noticed the removal of hoses in the beginning of the video?

[@pfun41]

I only drained what I had to.

[@miguelgranados961]

Hola conpre un mazda cxr 7 y tiene la cadena floja kese puede acer en ese caso

[@BrayanLopez23]

@@miguelgranados961 Cambiarla, es lo mejor :D

[@dimitrisntafos1570]

I want to buy a mazda cx7 turbo with 260hp. Does it worth?? Is it reliable??

[@carpenter315]

NO!!!. Not worth it. Get a newer Madzda model. I think they even discontinued the cx7. Problem was the turbo charger was too small for the large engine so it couldn't keep up with energy demand; they always fail and cause catastrophic engine problems.

[@whitelightning5937]

Mine doesn’t stop giving me problems

[@ilosaeilosa6833]

🇸🇦👍

[@stephenlavine9346]

I am doing same thing on a all wheel drive model. It;s even worse job

[@fredjurecki9865]

Turbo. Remove exhaust then take out alternator out. Rotate the air conditioner line and the exhaust and turbo pops right out the top at least on AWD thats the easiest way

[@zcopeland3928]

Fred jurecki how long does it take to fix the timing

[@billrimmer5596]

I am replacing one injector on one of these. Worst car in the world to work on.

[@jessiejames683]

I have a 2011 cx7, don't look nothing like that engine.

[@pfun41]

you probably have a different engine.

[@onelastkast3]

I own a cx7 what I’ve realized is get rid of it asap and get something anything else. These Mazda engines are trash to work on the turbos are even worse.

[@whitelightning5937]

These cars really suck never ending problems and everything in under everything just a headache over all

[@29auto30]

These cx7 are worthless no matter what condition.LOL

[@sallehalisitisallehalisiti9531]

You donk know about mazda cx7