Mechanic Stranded! Project Jeep Breaks Down! 1995 Wrangler 4.0 4x4

ANGRY TECHNICIAN! Customer Gets FIRED! Car kicked out! #mechanic • ANGRY TECHNICIAN! Cust...
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

[@RainmanRaysRepairs]

Hey I know..I missed an upload...everyone needs time off sometimes :)

[@stephentootle6388]

You're excused this time Ray,,,It IS the weekend after all

[@nathantilly3539]

you do you pal

[@Zommari]

Aucorse you need time off or you think you are a robot 🤨🤔

[@scipio6979]

No worries. Have one on us. 😊

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

You need a pressure transducer so you can log fuel pressure over time...

[@joevk6274]

I think the wire from the fuse block to the pump getting hot was a clue. Either that wire is damaged somewhere between the pump and fuse block, or the pump is failing and drawing a ton of juice. If it were me, I'd run a known good wire straight from the battery to the connector at the tank and see if it stops acting up. But I'm sure by the time we're seeing this vid, Ray's already got it figured out.

[@AK90]

My exact thinking when he said the wire was getting warm. Bypass it and check.

[@imfloridano5448]

Joe, may I inquire what type of juice is the wire from the fuse block supposed to use. My truck prefers Bilberry and Passion Fruit 😂🤣🤣. This question, as a young mechanic in a military unit, was asked of me by my Platoon Sgt. I was cornfused. He told ne to use proper terminology when speaking to the grunts and for PMCS purposes. We could use slang among the pkatoon but dealing with the operators use proper military terminology.

[@cyberfunk3793]

I was thinking about that too, long wire straight from the battery to the fuel pump and also check the ground side on the pump by example providing it a secondary ground.

[@joevk6274]

@@imfloridano5448 It's an older Wrangler, so it probably likes Prune. 😆

[@flysosky6464]

@JoeVK this is the way

[@gregorylewis8471]

Everybody gets frustrated troubleshooting at one time or another. I feel your pain brother! By now, I probably would've parked the jeep on the tracks and let Tropicana troubleshoot it! 🤣🤣🤣

[@keithgreene5573]

A new dance move cam, followed by mec cam

[@john_thorpe]

The things I'd do: 1.) Check the wires out at the relay to see if they're grounding out (other than the ground wire of course) 2.) Check for continuity on the wires by connecting one lead of the meter to one pin on the fuel pump plug and then testing all the ends at the relay location (repeat for each pin at the fuel pump ... this will help ensure that there is continuity only for the one wire) 3.) Run a temporary wire to replace the green with black tracer 4.) Do an amp load test on the fuel pump 5.) Find a way to test the fuel pressure near the pump 6.) Check the fuel lines for blockages (not just the filter) In my guesstimation, it's something electrical so I'd lean more on the 1 - 3 on my list. Reason for my guess is that the wire was hot, and I'm guessing that it got hot enough to melt the clamp that holds it in the fuse block. In my estimation, it could be that the wire is grounding out somewhere, the fuel pump is drawing more than it's supposed to or maybe even an intermittent short in the wire causing arcing inside the wire. Replacing the fuse block may have a similar issue with the wire falling out until the reason for it getting hot is corrected.

[@HughWoo]

Estimation guesstimation used a lot there 😂

[@levisvarela3735]

what i would do is feed the pump directly and see if it works properly, then if i get fuel pressure, i check the injectors, if that checks, i do a spark test on each plug in order, if that check, then it could a valve issue

[@proudcanadian5713]

The FIRST words out of my mouth when I saw the opening were, "I hope he's brought a phone." RAY, ALWAYS ALWAYS bring a phone on a test drive.

[@DonsJunkmail-vg1wt]

Does it have a cigarette lighter...does that work...so if the phones dead also...which seems like that going to happen next,he should have a cigarette lighter phone plug adapter...

[@andrewedwards6548]

I learnt the hard way when I forgot my phone was on charge and left it behind. Luckily got it close to a gas station before it died and walked so i could use their phone to call the workshop for help lol.

[@CrimeVid]

Yup, found that one out !

[@chrismulders2344]

Pre cell phone days...

[@aoksys31]

Forget the phone... You should've just towed the rollback tow truck behind the jeep.

[@michaellicitra7632]

The problem is a high resistance connection between the relay output and the pump itself. Not a pump problem it is a wiring to the pump problem. I thought I kept seeing while you were checking wiring voltages an initial near battery voltage and then an immediate low or no voltage reading. This will happen if you have a badly corroded wire that when put under any load the voltage will drop to nothing because the current demand increases. A number of times in your probing this seemed apparent. True the relay seat was messed up but might not bee the only problem - Green Crusties at work!

[@chrishouse5753]

Might be right - especially with the hot (temperature not voltage) wire. But was watching another jeep fuel issue video and the voltage right at the pump seems to dance around quite a bit but doesn't drop to no voltage but might drop a couple volts. I'll have to go back and watch again I thought it dropped to about 9V?

[@mod_incllc3235]

Definitely agree. After fixing the wiring then test the fuel pump which could have become victim to voltage issues.

[@StrongDreamsWaitHere]

It’s likely a straight run from the fuse block to the pump, so the wire itself may physically be bad.

[@mq9167]

As others have said the wire getting HOT is an indication. It could be either a Positive OR Ground issue. My quick diag would be to use an AC extension cord and run pos and neg directly from the battery to the pump. I love using AC extension cords for long run testing. Im not sure the backfiring is only fuel related. I would also hook a direct ground from the neg battery to the block and chassis. You mentioned the ground coming from the distributer so maybe thats a clue as well. I cant wait for the update. OH, take your phone next time too. :)

[@ravageawakened]

Not my first video from this channel but definitely the one that earned my subscription!

[@justcurious3525]

I was thinking "you removed the starter relay!" a second before your guy said "you removed the starter relay". I love these videos.

[@jameshedrick605]

I was thinking the same thing

[@61rampy65]

Ray also had the negative cable off the battery when he had the Wife Unit try to crank the engine over. When you start doing dumb things, it is time to take a break... or burn it to the ground.

[@JC4041]

Watching this reminds me of a horse my sister had when we were kids that would walk and run fine in the pasture. As soon as you put a saddle on him and start walking down the road he would start limping, but when you would turn him around to start heading home he would walk fine.

[@RunnJake]

What an actor lol!

[@robmut1357]

“You piece of Jeep!” LOL. That pretty much sums it up. (I can relate) 😆

[@sunsetoriginals7320]

It looks to me like you have lower voltage at the pump so maybe you have a wiring issue between the relay and the pump somewhere?

[@djspbb]

I enjoyed you telling him to start the Jeep while you had starter relay out. I was waiting for it to register.

[@chrishouse5753]

Or the first crank with "The Wife Unit" after the negative terminal was disconnected?

[@Mouseketier85]

Right was thinking is he testing him. But seemed more like he forgot. But new guy caught on quick lol

[@MrFlip001]

There’s a short on the wire from the fuse block to pump. Probably caused the connector to get hot enough to melt the fuse block itself which is why the connector won’t stay in its position anymore.

[@happyfisherman4432]

this was one of my favorite episodes yet and i have watched most of your uploads,, this reminds me of my father in his shop working on engines before those scan tools became a thing. troubleshooting and process of elimination fixing things. my father retired when computers became popular, he wasn't interested in fixing " rolling computers"

[@PatricksDIY]

I'm only 8:12 in, but wanted to comment, that this happened to me and it turned out to be the fuel pump, once it got hot it started doing exactly what was happening here.

[@stevewhiting556]

I’d have started with a pump. I’d probably have also run a new power line from the box to the pump. You’ll have more time diagnosing and driving and rinsing and repeating than just throwing the parts cannon at it. Jeep parts are cheap and usually fairly easy to replace. I’d also remove the fuel line from the rail and blow air back through the line while you have everything disconnected. Of course, this is a project Jeep so I’d probably have already replaced the almost 30 year old fuel lines

[@tedwilliams8766]

could be a wiring issue. with it cutting out with movement. after all, its a jeep and seen wetness and could have hidden green crusties. nothing is boring about diagnosing strange thing like this. definitely enjoy these vids where thinking outside the box is mandatory. thanks, ray.

[@mjb12141963]

Makes it that much sweeter when you do figure it out.

[@MrErikii]

i think you got it right. if the wire is getting hot, then it will melt the plastic, and the the connecktor wil go down.

[@Chairman750]

Hey Ted. I think you are right on the money with the wiring. With that green wire getting hot, I am willing to bet either the wire has picked up resistance do to corrosion or it's getting hot because it is intermittently touching ground.

[@reverseffect]

everytime from this day forward im saying "its a jeep thing" with anything anytime i work on a jeep. good diag and keepin up the humor. thanks rainmanray for the content

[@nessawoolley3869]

Thankyou for your real life experiences, it's good to know it's not only me that has these days, and customers don't have a clue how much you have to go through sometimes..

[@DepletedWisdom]

Diagnostic episodes are my favorite episodes. I hope you have a part 2 of this. I got to know what it ends up being.

[@tterag]

Same here. Enjoyed this one.

[@sfliet]

Attention Rainman! The horn button needs immediate attention. Thanks for all the great videos!

[@chdst]

OH THE HUGE MANATEE I didn't even notice and now it can't be unseen.

[@captainchaos3174]

And the gear lever knob as well... 😮

[@dotar9586]

I'm glad someone else noticed that.

[@chrishouse5753]

@@captainchaos3174 After so many videos where Ray corrects the Oil Cap to make sure the writing is facing the correct way surprised he can be in the Jeep with the knob turned sideways! LOL

[@nissan300ztt]

I know ive said this before. You need to wrap the Intake fuel rails with Insulation. they get hot and cause the fuel to expand and not allow the injectors to get fuel into the motor. This is a Known common problem on the 4.0L Jeeps.

[@mod_incllc3235]

YES! I remember seeing this a while back!

[@bernatzmark]

I LOVE that you showed the struggle! I teach math and break (I mean fix) things in my spare time. One of the best things you can do as a teacher is model the struggle! Thank you SO much for the way you verbalize your thought process and for posting a video that may seem like a failure to some, but was actually a HUGE success!

[@nauhteeboy]

These are the types of videos that I really like. Love watching Rays troubleshooting skills. Can't wait to see the finish. I had a relay for a fuel pump, that for 3 years, would randomly overheat and open. After a few minutes it would cool and work fine for months at a time, and then out of blue fail. It's was so mentally stressing. Especially after a fuel pump, two fuel filters, new fuel line, and new fuel rail.

[@bigfootemobileauto9734]

Ouch That's a lot of Cannon parts!

[@oregonexpat]

Ray, those spade lug terminals have a little spring tab that gets bent, and then lose their grip on the housing they can be pushed out. Should be able to bend it back out, unless it’s broken off, which can happen too. It didn’t look corroded, from the video, so it might be salvageable.

[@TXCherokee]

Correct. The little sharp tab on connectors got push back. Take ultra tiny flat screwdriver and bend it back out

[@gwg352]

Unless FBx housing melted from heat & tab no longer engages.

[@ThePurvey]

I like to use a dentist's pick. I pulled the PDU from a yj (I did feel bad for cutting the heart out of a poor smashed yj) and repinned the whole thing into a be a PDU for my second battery to power the rest of my 96 xj. Credit Bleeping jeep and very old video. Also did a switch panel with 5 factory xj fog lamp switches to control it. That took years to track down. 2 of the relays do my dual stock electric fan set up.

[@helenault7452]

That relay terminal in the fuse block looked like the kind that's retained by a plastic tab in the socket; there may be no good repair short of getting a weatherproof external relay housing and moving the fuel pump relay into it. Chrysler made a good one for a warranty campaign on a bunch of vehicles about a decade back when they made the dumb move of soldering the fuel pump relay onto the PC board in the guts of the fuse panel. The part number for the relay kit is CSZDV621AA and there's a Mopar parts overstock outfit up in Lakeland that has a bunch of them left, at $16 per kit plus shipping.

[@Slugg-O]

I keep thinking it's thermal related because it craps out once it's at op temp. I always look at the ignition, but since the fuel pressure is gooched, and the last minute of the video shows no improvement in pressure when fed direct, it has to be the motor in the pump taking a dive once it's heats up. That's just my guess but I'm sure you nailed it either way with that last discovery. Pump gets hot and fails.

[@BruceCoggins]

Ray, with all the backfiring and popping out the exhaust, the problem is in the ignition. While there certainly were fuel issues, what you are experiencing is a bad control module. I ran into the exact same issue with a Chevy a few years ago. I chased fuel problems for about a year until it dawned on me that it was backfiring under a load. In my case, the ignition module...which has a variable dwell...was not functioning correctly and the dwell became "fixed" and was not adjusting as it should have been. Anyway, I would put in a new ignition module and see if that cures the problem.

[@jamesjohnson8824]

If there is a screen at the fuel intake in the tank (usually on the in tank fuel pump) make sure it isn't so fine that it plugs easily. We had a big issue with that on the last year of the Ford Contour and Mercury Cougar. The only cure was to leave it off. Check the tank for contamination for such things as loose paper or a plastic bag that can get sucked to the screen then fall off when less flow is needed. Make sure the tank vents. See if the problem goes away with the cap off. Those are some things I encountered.

[@jamesjohnson8824]

Ray is following a tried and true method as he always does. That's fix what you find and go from there.

[@michaelshingleton1628]

I am watching the jeep thing. My brother around 1980 bought a 74 Chevy originally from Florida. Would do what you are experiencing. Turned out there was over five gallons of sand in the gas tank. The filter sock in the tank would clog up and you let it sit and getting in and out of car caused the sand to drop down off the in tank sock filter and it would run fine.

[@michaelpressman7203]

I would check the fuel line and pump for dirt in it makes sense what you're saying have a great day

[@MyAvitech]

I had a 79 Lincoln Continental that did the exact same thing. It turned out to be a part in the distributor cap that advanced or retarded the timing automatically. It was the electronic equivalent to vacuum advance, if I remember correctly. The car stared and ran absolutely fine when cold, but after about an hour and the part got hot enough, it would fail and cause timing issues. Very much like what your Jeep is doing.

[@whisperingmoments8731]

I had a Pontiac ignition module to do the same thing. After it got hot would backfire and stall out. Took me 4 modules to finally find one that was good

[@drrobert2120]

An old test to check ignition module is to hook dwell meter to ignition lead . dwell should remain constant if you increase throttle and dwell changes.. module is bad...

[@jsh6952]

​@Dr Robert Ray doesn't have the old school ignition testing stuff.

[@drrobert2120]

I know..but back then it was a surefire way of pass or fail diagnostic.

[@scannerlanier471]

my 84 nissan was exactly the opposite. Would stall when cold primarily, pour a little gas down the carb and started right back up and generally kept running. Very intermittent, I feel your pain Ray. I tried everything. Never did figure it out. Always drove with a gas can in the bed, just in case. Carb had a heater element in it. Suspected that was the issue, was planning to replace carb but sold it before I did.

[@aigoru8718]

Ray, you could bypass the fuel system in the Jeep for a jerrycan with an external electrical fuelpump for a quick troubleshoot. Wires (positive side shunt) from the relay to the pump getting warm could also be indication of a dying/resistive coil from the fuel pump.

[@0pee]

Ray in my humble opinion the problem lies in your catalytic converter. My sisters dodge had huge power loss after brief warmup turned out to be a catalytic converter.. Good luck brother!!

[@llewellynreed8139]

Had a similar issue on an old mercury. Fairly new vehicle at the time. Pickup filter sock in the tank would clog up with shavings when you drove it long distance and die. Would not restart. After it sat for a couple of hours Would work fine. Short trips where OK. Had it at the dealer several times until an old mechanic at the Ford dealer pulled the tank, cleaned it out and thru the sock away. Drove it for another 250k without issues.

[@ChrisTheBmxGuy]

Yep this is what i thought as well

[@charliegordon5085]

Love watching you diagnose things, Ray you are a wizard 🇨🇦

[@MrMattDat]

Love to watch you diagnose a problem. Amazing process and a great job finding that bad fusebox connection. Your problem reminded me of one I had long ago that ended up being a good sized chunk of rust floating around in the tank (days of mechanical pumps and external fuel filters). Whenever gas got low enough and the right sloshing about and it would end up blocking fuel flow.

[@bigfootemobileauto9734]

That was one of my original questions was what the tank might have causing fuel volume issues!

[@TheTimothydragon]

Thanks for posting and showing everyone can run out of patience and need to troubleshoot again later.

[@derekh8688]

Glad you got additional help. Nice to have him handy to help you diagnose!

[@petej.8676]

Keep your parts delivery guys happy✌️

[@paultice610]

Congratulations on the 500,000 subscribers great job keep up the good work 🎉

[@lzxray6781]

I enjoy watching you doing root tree analysis's on vehicles Ray. I have always like doing them on almost every problem because I'm a detailed oriented person myself.

[@robturner7945]

An absolute master class in diagnosis. Outstanding!!!!!!

[@russellstyles5381]

One of the big advantages of experience. Different problems have different symptoms. I had an M880 (60's dodge 4x4) that died when you hit the throttle, idled just fine. Plugged fuel filter. While waiting for a new filter, flushed it by putting it in backwards. The liquid that came out looked like red mud.

[@matthewsykes4814]

Good morning from me, nearly 3am and can't sleep.... Work in 4 hours...great. And don't worry Ray I've been there with a problem that took me and others 3 days to solve and we're on the clock. But when you find out what it is.... that's the best moment ever. For me it was two screened cables that had been repaired so bad the inner cores shorted to ground. Cables replaced, sorted.

[@kevincurry4735]

Happy Sunday Ray. Half way onto a million subscribers. 🚀👨🏻‍⚕️

[@jonesywebbles3708]

Love the investigation into this jeep ,keep up the great content ray!

[@briandavies1910]

I had a little Citroen many moons ago with exatley the same symptoms, popping, power loss, etc. Even the local mechanic struggled with it. We ended up doing the parts cannon, with the pump, and it fixed the problem! (this version had a pump on top of the engine, not in the tank)

[@SakariKaulaote1]

This is not boring, Ray. The diags are the best

[@davidshettlesworth1442]

A great video Ray! You made me realize "It is not just me" that the attempted fix of my jeep does similar things. Carry On Brother. I love my 3 Jeeps but they do drive me crazy sometimes.

[@stephenwhitemore9120]

Hi Ray, May I make a suggestion, I think some of your problem, may be, its not fuel pressure, but flow , rust or something else in the tank to engine supply pipe. Contamination move forward and back with demand. Disconnect pipe at each end, and blow through with compressed air. Just a idea . Stay well stay safe.

[@donw3912]

This video was not boring at all...finding other problems along the way though they don't fix the primary issue is a plus. As for the relay and having taken it out of the mess and run a wire straight to the pump and still doing it...crusties between engine and wire end at the rear or the pump isn't good. Either way, you took a break at a good spot. Hopefully after lunch and time away from that sucker you can get another plan of attack. Thanks as always for the great content Ray.

[@whitney3383]

My friend had a similar problem with his Jeep. It turned out to be the key switch. Keep me updated good luck

[@flatdaddio]

Great video Ray! I purchased a car where someone had changed the fuel pump. They did not change the assembly only the pump. They did not properly connect the pump to the line on the assembly in the tank. The hose clamp they installed was below the barb. It could not build pressure because it was leaking inside the tank. Yes, I was getting misfires. Replaced the assembly and the car now runs great!

[@timgraham7851]

Had same problem with my XJ. Would Idle fine with low fuel pressure but cut out under load. Fuel pump was overheating under load.

[@TheFrenchPug]

Was it a bad fuel pump?

[@postersm7141]

It’s not boring at all. It’s a very interesting from one technician to another to see a technician figure out the issue. It’s great to see somebody actually figure it out instead of being lazy and or guessing and doing the whole parts Canon thing

[@AB-jk7tw]

First class diagnostic process Ray

[@carltonduty2662]

So, you need a fuel pressure gauge that you can observe under load (one with a long enough hose that you can temporarily tape to the windshield so you can see it while you are driving it) - your gauge is fine but you need a longer hose. Then you can observe it under load.

[@mauriceireland5477]

Ray has a perfectly good light and camera set up to set it up under the hood....and how cool would that footage be for US?????

[@YuiHellshire]

wow, never thought id see this same issue, i had the same problem in my 93 cherokee Years ago, did it to me on the other side of town, ended up letting it cool and was able to get home. Turns out was a failing pump, only ever happened when i had around 1/4 or under of a tank of fuel. went through the issue 1 other time within a year of replacing it, just ordered a Quantum Fuel pump and been going strong for 3 years.

[@ivanolsen7966]

try to NEVER run a fuel tank down under a 1/4 ..... as the fuel pumps gets hot ( the fuel keeps it cool ... this lengthens the life of the fuel pump )..... this goes for all cars

[@ratoncolorado7227]

On my 89 I had a similar problem fixed by replacing the TPS and crank sensors, and the map as well since it was like 15 bucks at the time.

[@Arizonakiller7]

Hearing Ray say hes defeated makes me feel more human about my failed month struggle getting a 94 bronco driving and not dieing. Only difference is he will eventually get it going. You got this man!

[@Rambogner]

“If I can do it, you can do it!”. Eric O

[@ronaldgillespie5714]

I think you may have solved the problem at the end of at least a way to solve it. Two things have occurred to me. Is there a floating membrane or piece of plastic in the tank that is wrapping itself around the fuel pickup . Or if there is a piece of hose that's not gas rated in the line it could be collapsing after a short time.

[@nevkirkham7657]

While of no help to you Ray, I agree with Ronald. It is great to see real mechanics fault find an issue and not a wizz kid plugging into a computer to tell him what is broken and what needs to be done to fix it.

[@conkeeper]

Had a similar problem where the hose inside the fuel tank deteriorated to where it was sucking air if the fuel level got below where the hole in the hose was. Not sure what the fuel pump design is on the jeep but the symptom was exactly the same.

[@williamjeffers3241]

Check for debris in tank clogging screen. Falls away when not running.

[@lokigames5091]

I love the deep dive diag videos and learn a lot from you , I am not a mechanic but like to do my own work on my cars/trucks .I need one of those master kits used in this video lol.✌️✌️

[@poopingandroid]

Back around late 80's or early 90's I had a mid 80's Plymouth Turismo Duster hatchback with a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder that acted just like this Jeep. Mine wasn't a fuel issue. I ended up finding a perfectly cut line in the head gasket from either cylinder 2 or 3 (I can't remember) that came out directly to the distributor. When the car got warm the coolant would start leaking, steam would foul out the distributor and I couldn't even pass a semi on the freeway because the air rushing around the truck was too much to let me go by. I understand your frustration as I remember my frustration at the time. And having to pull a cylinder head to fix it only to find a perfectly straight line in the head gasket as if someone had cut it with a razor blade on purpose. Stay at it my friend, you will find the cause.

[@kennyupchurch]

Glad to see the shop is doing great man

[@williamsquires3070]

You forgot to do the most important upgrade: setting it on fire🔥! Or in other words, make the internal combustion engine an external combustion engine! An extra “inspection port” in the engine block ought to help, plus a hot engine and a leaky fuel line. Also, don’t forget the “smoke screen” and “oil slick” mods; in no time, you’ll (sort of) be able to do stunts just like on Knight Rider! 😅

[@coreybabcock2023]

Jeeps suck ass

[@VashthStampeede]

Why not? Paul Danner set his on fire at the convenience store. Remember Eric's closing line at the end of each video.

[@Blackford86]

I see you have the money briefcase with you. Awesome.

[@RainmanRaysRepairs]

It’s my stuff, ws headed home

[@BruceCoggins]

@@RainmanRaysRepairs , Ray, with all the backfiring and popping out the exhaust, the problem is in the ignition. While there certainly were fuel issues, what you are experiencing is a bad control module. I ran into the exact same issue with a Chevy a few years ago. I chased fuel problems for about a year until it dawned on me that it was backfiring under a load. In my case, the ignition module...which has a variable dwell...was not functioning correctly and the dwell became "fixed" and was not adjusting as it should have been. Anyway, I would put in a new ignition module and see if that cures the problem.

[@chrisniche932]

This is great bro, love watching your videos

[@joesigafus2192]

I had the same problem with a customers jeep just like that one.n it turned out to be the pump pulling to many amps . N it burnt the wire off the same one ur on in the box..i put new end on n new pump .no more issues. Ur on the right track Ray.

[@saab900turbo9]

Had similar problems with my saab 900 turbo. Worked great with no misfires when no load was on the engine, when i put it in gear, and drove, especially on low rpm it miss fired badly and almost stalled just like the jeep. The fix was unlikely but kinda easy. Just like you i suspected fuel delivery but it was a dead end. SO i had an ignition coil laying around so i swapped it out and it ran much better. After some spark plug gap adjustment and a better used original ignition coil the car is running fine now. cant hurt to try especially if you have and old ignition coil laying around.

[@nanookofthenorth6186]

30 year old rig, suspect crud like rust flakes in the fuel tank blocking the pick up screen. Had a couple Datsun Z’s with that issue. it’d work fine until you called for more gas at higher power settings, then it’d die.

[@stevo4649]

thankyou for the upload Ray,,this is certainly a head scratcher,but youll get there,,and nothing you ever post is boring far from it,have yourself a good week, 👍💪

[@richardgeddes630]

I had a 1976 Renegade with a similar problem of momentary stalling. I found a small hole in the fuel line, wrapped it with electrical tape and resolved the problem.

[@humphrey28078]

I have complete confidence that Ray will figure it out.

[@johngregory662]

I personally think the fuel line has a partial block in it or getting air in it from somewhere. I had a old jeep which was getting air intake from the fuel pump…especially when hot. Had massive issues running and restarting

[@TheBry_Guy]

This video reminds me of my life. I can handle events with a cheery attitude when I have the time to sort my thoughts. But the shit that breaks or needs attention first is never the thing you are currently prepared for or thinking about, and that is so frustrating.

[@kennethcook6195]

You'll find problem. Keep up the GREAT WORK Ray!!😊

[@wayneessar7489]

Congratulations on 500,000 subscribers ! Also backfiring always sucks....

[@helenault7452]

The last time I had this happen, it was the fuel pump. Pretty much identical symptoms. That one was on a late model Nissan van that didn't have a pressure test port. The telltale on it was that when the stumbles started, the O2 percentage went way high, indicating a super-lean mixture. But you already know the pump's part of the problem. What you need to check next is whether the tank is full of rustycrap from the time this Jeep has spent parked and not running. The inlet sock may be getting plugged up with sludge and particles, choking off the flow and taking out the pressure. Even with a plastic tank, dead fuel sludge and crusty flakes from the few metal parts of the pump and sending unit assembly can still add up to a dirty sock on the pump. By the way, if you can't get that relay terminal to snap back in, Mopar part CSZDV622AA is a kit with a relay, a short harness, and a weatherproof bracket; it was made for a warranty campaign to fix a goof on the fuseboxes of a bunch of 2008-2012 (or so) vehicles that had their fuel pump relays soldered to a PC board in the guts of the fuse panel. (Dumb idea.) There's a Mopar parts overstock place in Lakeland that has a bunch of them left at $16 each plus shipping. I grabbed a couple of extras. [Edit: Somebody at Chrysler apparently got hissy about those campaign parts being sold on the Net, but I still know of a source, just not as inexpensive.]

[@mod_incllc3235]

Good possibility!

[@drrobert2120]

Excellent! I thought the same about gas tank .If you find crud there may have contaminated filter and the line it self

[@helenault7452]

@@drrobert2120 I also had a Dodge van display similar symptoms when some damp fuel caused corrosion inside the fuel rails; the tiny flakes of rust would jam together in the injectors' inlet screens and choke off the flow, making it run progressively worse, but they'd loosen up enough when it was shut down to allow a lather-rinse-repeat cycle. The rails were out of production, so I ended up salvaging them via a soak in rust remover solution. It ran for another 100K before the windshield frame rotted out.

[@michaeldavis4746]

Hi Ray! You may want to check the connector wiring again near the fuel tank and the relay box. Check for series resistance only between each end TERMINAL. No relay is needed to make this check. No power is applied. You will need a long extension wire for one of your meter leads to reach the relay box. Check each wire both (+) and then (-) and record each value. You should have less than 0.3 Ohms for each wire. If you measure higher than 0.3 Ohms then you have excessive resistance and there will be too much voltage drop. When power is applied to the circuit with this excessive resistance the voltage drop will cause heat at the connector in the relay box and the result will be too low a voltage to the fuel pump. You may have damage to the wire strands (fewer strands more resistance, due to rubbing of the insulation on the chassis and even mice chewing on the wires (which I have seen several times especially if this vehicle has sat for a long period of time the mice make it their home). Try wiggle test of wires to see if the resistance changes in Ohmic value. You will have to replace the wire(s) if they are damaged. Hope this may help.

[@roberts9713]

Congratulations on 500K !!

[@crashoverride328]

Well, you know you are SENDING power to the fuel pump, but unless you attach a voltmeter at the pump you don't know the power is getting there consistently. There could be an issue un the wiring between the fuse panel and te pump. This may explain the multiple fuel pumps. Could be worth a voltage drop test on the wiring. Pump load should be around 10A so enough for a test.

[@carlevans7966]

I was a founding member of the Atlanta four wheel drive club in 1971. I miss those days.

[@sponiebr]

Cool! I have a set of the same parking breaks!

[@keithjones894]

You were only getting 7 volts to the pump when you checked. I'm willing to bet you need to run a new power wire to the pump to see if that helps.

[@harleyjones5200]

Yo Ray, you mentioned a heap of corrosion in the fuse box. Its possible for that corrosion to travel down the wire internally, both increasing the internal resistance of the wire, and reducing the amperage the wire can carry to the fuel pump. This could be the case and would explain why that wire was super hot when you touched it at one point. Less Amperage = fuel pump not operating at capacity = less volume of fuel being delivered. As resistance also increases with temperature, this would explain why the symptoms arent present when the car hasnt been operating for a while. The wire can carry enough amperage to adequately operate the fuel pump when cool, but doing so heats it up, and it kind of becomes a self feeding loop at that point. More resistance = more heat = more resistance etc etc until it cant even back out of a driveway. Try bypassing that wire completely and running another power source back to the pump for testing. If this is not the case, I would put money on the new pump being a dud from the factory, but the heat of that wire is a bit of a smoking gun for me.

[@charleskadletc2431]

I agree with Harley. And try the lead to the fuel tank?

[@microjet9563]

I also agree with Harley, The wire getting hot and the lack of appropriate volts at the fuel pump and the fact that you eliminated the fuse box as the issue already all suggest to me that the wiring itself to the fuel pump is playing a part here. This is a 95 jeep so I assume the wiring is still original since the coloring appears to still match the diagram. If there is any damage to the wire it could be causing the internal resistance condition that Harley talks about. Try Harley's suggestion with replacing the wire? Maybe get it to the point where it is happening again before doing that for more easy A / B testing.

[@cliffbraun3850]

Maybe a bad ground at the pump?

[@vicmiller7191]

yep the Jeep Wave is still a thing. always a treat watching the things you find.

[@kaafromoz]

Thanks ray for posting mate, when you got to paperclip time I thought it would say to you " it appears your trying to make a connection would you like assistance " 😄😄🙄🙄 Great diagnostic skills mate and at least your on the path to answers mate 1 issue down in the very long list of fixes required. Keep Safe Keep Strong 🦘🦘🦘🦘💖💖

[@stevenanderson6925]

I had a similar issue with a GM Sierra. As soon as it warmed up, it would run rough and backfire. I accidently fixed it by replacing the Temp Sensor in order to fix my temp gauge. It ran great after the sensor replacement. However, It didn't fix the gauge problem. That turned out to be corroded circuit internally at the gauge. Replaced the gauge and good to go. I do own two Jeeps now so I am looking forward to the cause of your Jeep issue. By the way, Jeeps are famous for corroded ground wires and terminals as well as putting circuit junction boxes behind the wheel well.

[@ienjoy8008s]

ray I know there are problems with this jeep that you are hammering away at with pretty good speed, but you definitely need to check out the 4wd actuation boot located on the axel and the PVC vacuum lines that come off of it, I would be surprised if its still in one piece, they leave just about every YJ stranded when you need the 4wd

[@desotosky1372]

With that Eaton he installed in the front I think he would be better to eliminate the disconnect completely as it is always seeing unequal input from each side.

[@nockianlifter661]

You said the wire got hot. I’m guessing that’s why the connector fell out of the fuse block. I’d examine the cable and connector as it might be corroded away or badly crimped which is causing high resistance, low voltage at pump and heat.

[@ron1584]

Check the grounds at the multi connector stud by the oil dipstick. Or it could be the fuel pump ballast resistor acting up when it gets hot. There could be corrosion in the wire going from the relay to the pump. Can you run a wire from the battery with a inline fuse to the fuel pump to eliminate a corroded wire.

[@paulnoble5627]

May sound weird...but check the rubber hose in tank. They some times get a very small crack that don't present itself until things get warm or sometimes high pressure. Had it occur in one of my cars and the symptoms are exact.

[@williamsquires3070]

Hint: while fuse box apart, put (fuel pump) relay back in, then jam the connector thingy back on from the underside of the fuse box, making sure it has a tight connection. Then pack with 5-minute epoxy to keep the wire bit in there. Let set for at least an hour, then try continuing-of-Jeep-diagnostic procedure! 😊

[@Jmg831]

Great advice! Hopefully he sees this

[@pcspecialistpdx]

probably not necessary, he just needs to bend the tab that engages the housing. If that doesn't work, then proceed to your suggestion.

[@nevkirkham7657]

@@pcspecialistpdx If tab is even there. Had something similar where corrosion assisted in the tab breaking off. I cut off the old connecter and added a new one.

[@timothylaurent5456]

Try running a hot wire from the battery back to the fuel pump so you can eliminate the wire in the harness

[@TheFrenchPug]

I like it!!!

[@cheezunriceramen8995]

"I'm not gonna give up, I'm gonna find it." Classic Ray. No doubt you'll find it. I hope Help Unit Troy knows just how lucky he is to have you as a mentor.

[@crash10201972]

The other issue I had that did similar was the ECU connectors (under the hood on the firewall)wiggle loose, I built a 'clamp bracket ' to hold them tight and it never happened again. Mine was a 97 GCL with over 375k miles, just sold it last month, had it for over 10 years

[@andrewbrown4975]

Hi Ray, looks and sounds like a section of rubber line has been gouged inside by the metal line and a flap of rubber is choking the fuel supply occasionally, been there!

[@YoderTexas]

I was thinking trash in the tank, fuel line or fuel filter. The backfiring though made me think it was slipping out of time. I'm not a mechanic, but my father was. I might have followed in his footsteps, but I hated getting nasty with everything I'd touch.

[@ryanedwardson6541]

So, when you were probing at the fuel pump connections at the rear, you were getting 7 volts, but at the panel 12.5. Wouldn't that indicate a potentially broken wire?

[@northpoint1039]

Or intermittent grounding was my thinking. My clue was when he grabbed the wire to the fuel pump and commented that it was hot to the touch.

[@ryanedwardson6541]

@Richard Craniumdefinitely a fair point and definitely needs to recheck at the rear. I've chased similar issues before, sometimes just walking away for a bit is the best course.

[@RuthlessMindset68]

While growing up I had an ‘81 Monte Carlo that also had really weird gremlins. My thoughts are you have a rotted out wire down to the fuel pump, or ground. Upon putting electrons through the wire, it heats up the copper and causes it to move. Usually retracting and breaking the connection. Then it will cool and extend until it makes the connection again. Just to start the cycle again. So run an external wire to pump connector. Retest!

[@truckersrule]

Congratulations on 500,000 subs.

[@TheCorpsehatch]

Project Jeep is back. This going to be a good video. Ray: "Lets roll the window down." Jeep: Unzip plastic window. It's a Jeep thing.

[@joevk6274]

Also Ray: I hate this Jeep. 😄