Mechanic Tip: Tightening Brake Line Bolts

[@TechnicianRed]

Allright! Some of yall need to calm TF down! Lets all take a lesson in basic mechanical know-how. Class has started. No, the hammer doesn't mess the threads up. Quite the opposite. This method of getting the washer to seal is a lot easier on the threads than trying to tighten the crap out of the bolt hoping the washer will crush more. *Explained below* The crush washers allready have a lot of pressure on them from tightening the banjo bolt, but it isn't enough sometimes. This is where the force from the hammer is added to the force of the bolt threads creating a MUCH HIGHER force at initial hammer impact to crush the washers. Hitting the bolt (when tightened) WILL exert 100% of the added force to the washers and not the threads. This is due to the axial play between the threads of a bolt. The bolt is simply being pushed from one crest of the thread towards the other crest with the washers being compressed at that time therefore taking the impact of the hammer. After this hammer whack, the washers have now crushed more therefore leaving a gap and allowing you to tighten the banjo bolt more. And NO, hitting a socket instead of the head of the bolt is not going to accomplish didly squat! First off, the socket will mess up that first copper washer and nick the crap out of it around the outside edge. Second, the inner washer would see almost all of the force of the hammer as the outer washer would only make slight contact with the socket (messing it up as mentioned). You want the same force applied to both washers.

[@wetherabble8031]

Absolutely! First thought seeing this: "No F'n way he's hammering on those threads." Then you think about it for more than a moment. Ah... the threads are loaded to the back side, the hammer blow is going 100% into that washer, and he's chasing it down between blows. Killer! I'll keep the tech tip in my back pocket for my next spark plug job 😉.

[@mikebravo3527]

Pin this guy

[@rjwhipple8896]

I get where you’re coming from but still not good on threads and does still exert force on them especially on cast metal like a caliper that’s a risky game to play

[@danielsantillan2018]

I like to put the washer on the ground and hit it with a hammer and crush it before I crush it on the bolt. So I don’t mess up the threads.

[@illitero]

@@danielsantillan2018 I'll bite new crush washers like an old prospector

[@dant8213]

I was waiting for you to bust out the snap-on 3050 air 🔨 and go to town 😳😁

[@zenkoz3158]

I think this method would work better because you're not twisting the copper as much as you would be with just a bunch of tourqe, as well this method probably being easier on the threads

[@sethh8892]

​@@zenkoz3158I don't know if a bunch of wax from an air hammer is going to be better on the threads than a small tap from a roofing hammer😂

[@alemgas]

@@sethh8892 roofing hammer? Its a ball pein hammer

[@tonydobek8908]

​@@alemgas When you only own one hammer you can call it whatever hammer you want! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@XX-tg4gj]

​@@tonydobek8908 Nah, we just call it the girl's hammer.

[@richardp3624]

In too many years, I've never done this or heard of it. Great idea.

[@samuelboyd972]

Thats a TIP for disater

[@chrisplayz9739]

@@samuelboyd972 how so ? i dont think anything is being stripped it just looks like hes crushing the washer further with the hammer then tightening the nut with the extra space that opened up for the screw

[@macsway2002]

He really stressing the threads on that caliper.

[@daltonjones8549]

​@@chrisplayz9739

[@restogarage]

How does this crush the washer rather than the bolt. The bolt essentially is solid with the caliper. Bad idea on a bolt that has a hole drilled in it. More than likely you are just crushing the bolt or threads.

[@42lookc]

Just tried this on a 2008 Silverado 2500HD with hydroboost. Exactly this problem. Couldn't get the banjo bolt washers to seal so looked on YT for tips. Saw this clip, tried it and it worked! Saved me an hour round trip to town for a help kit with new washers. Two taps with a 12 oz ball peen hammer and sealed! Thanks! Wish I could buy you lunch.

[@TechnicianRed]

Awesome, glad I could help out!

[@Matthew-ou2ie]

@@TechnicianRed Definitely would have helped me back in the day. I've broken a few of these banjo bolts trying to get them tight enough to seal. This is much better.

[@kinbolluck476]

Stupid washers

[@gordonpitts9382]

Same issue I had, nice fix

[@NordenEngineering]

Ive been pronouncing it "Ball Pain" hammer all my life you live and learn

[@conchopete1789]

Add in a “ That AINT going nowhere “ and you’re Golden

[@jamesmcguinness1530]

Don't forget to gently pat the whole caliper while you do that.

[@DisaFreek]

Current Toyota technician and shop nerd. This is solid advice as far as I'm concerned and your breakdown explains it perfectly. You aren't hitting a bleeder, and you aren't beating the mess out of it either. I will for sure try this next time the opportunity presents itself.

[@atb614]

I saw this trick a while ago and implemented it when I do dif and transfer case flushes as well

[@uGoGop]

Do you then use a new crush washer as they are single use?

[@1987FX16]

​@@uGoGoplol I've literally never put a new copper washer on anything I own. Everything that's not mine gets new ones on them though.

[@grandpa7278]

All a top mechanic needs is a crescent wrench and a hammer! That's All! ....maybe afew doodads. (hardly w mentioning)

[@TheGreyGhost_of43rd]

Probably the only tech commenting on the post, everyone else is just a shade tree mechanics light holder.

[@steffentysnes5302]

For once a shorts mechanical tip that actually seems to make sense and probably work, incredible

[@geef917]

How would this work? The bolt is threaded into the caliper all this person is doing is hammering the threads.

[@steffentysnes5302]

@@geef917 There is a tolerance at the threads, so when you tighten it it will clamp down on the washer and make a "free space" between the inner side of the threads and the caliper, so it will first comform the washer.

[@steffentysnes5302]

@@geef917 I see, you dont know anything about anything, I'm sorry about that.

[@geef917]

@@steffentysnes5302 if you think banging on threads is doing anything to that crush washer you know nothing. I would never want you working on my vehicle either.

[@steffentysnes5302]

@@geef917 what a relief:)

[@RoughRaiders13]

Mechanic for 10 years and I never saw that before. What an awesome tip. You learn something new everyday. Anyone criticizing this obviously doesn't know what they're talking about. This is a solid method. Thanks for the tip. 👍

[@jimmurphy5739]

Agreed. Just gotta warn the shop gorilla not to whale on it with a 5 lb. maul! Just a decent tap will do.

[@evlutionzllc5519]

You win the brake service tip championship! I have worked on brakes on vehicles for about 30 years or so and never seen anyone mention this. Bravo! Bravo!

[@dak_57]

I’ve been a mechanic for 197 years and this is a new one for me. Great idea

[@akusa82]

How many years? 😟🧐🤯

[@petesmith5092]

​@@akusa821.97

[@darrellgroat1607]

That's what I was thinking great advice

[@Henry_Swanson]

Back in 1826 he began as a lube teck changing fluids on the horses pulling the buggies. In 3 years his boss will give him a fake gold plated watch from a vending machine for 200 years of service without a day off. No raise.

[@edwardmulder3777]

197 years? r u Joe biden? lol

[@Davsoto120]

Ive watched too many satire mechanics that I thought you were ganna weld something at some point 😂

[@TechnicianRed]

🤣🤣🤣

[@brucebradley5877]

I was thinking about my induction tool bring that washer just shy of it's melting point. Flame out the brake fluid. :)

[@corythomas4427]

@@brucebradley5877 Since copper work hardens, you could do that to anneal an already installed and removed crush washer if you were forced to reuse it for some reason.

[@danbrooks8241]

I have a set of those H.F fiberglass handle ballpein hammers I've had them for almost 20 years

[@joshcohen5027]

@@corythomas4427 yes, I’ve done it before. Heat it up until it’s red hot and let it air dry, I use a piece of mechanics wire to hang it up and some map gas if I was in a pinch and couldn’t get a new one

[@robwoodke6592]

I’ve been a mechanic, automotive, truck and equipment for 40+ and have never seen this done. Very cool idea. I’m retired now and only doing work for friends and family but I’ll definitely do this next brake job.

[@joemvin.j3-16]

I am now 67. I have done countless brake jobs at home with new/reman calipers & new hoses. I have often pulled the new hose off, to install another new crush washer - and bleed everything AGAIN to get great pedal feel & pressure. And probably wasted crushable washers and brake fluid. THIS IS AMAZING! THANK YOU! @TechnicianRed

[@mikeemmons1079]

Mr. Murphy, my 9th grade shop teacher, is smiling down on this video. I think "Hit it with a hammer, it will fit" is on his headstone.

[@josephpicaro151]

You just kept Mr.Murphys name alive one more day ✌️

[@MR-si1eq]

😂😅😂😅😂😅

[@bobbygetsbanned6049]

And if it still doesn't fit? Get a bigger hammer!

[@nejmsornejm2973]

Did he fit into his grave without a hammer? (Sorry)

[@thestinkiestpp1894]

did your teacher by any chance have a career in law? 😅

[@kevinmetcalf6371]

Tks young man .I've been working on cars for decades & thats a new one on me. Old dog learned a new trick

[@raynjpg]

Always new things to learn, that's what's great ab this world. It's like how parents will say they don't just teach their kids, their kids teach them a lot too.

[@gjohns316]

Same here, 30 years of working on cars and that’s a first

[@nicholas_scott]

Same here. It seems obvious. For 40 years I would just tighten the heck hoping I don’t strip

[@crunchermuncher93]

😂😂😂😂

[@infiniti37G]

We always used the old old washers. They NEVER leaked.

[@Hopeless_and_Forlorn]

I like this. Too many people over tighten the fitting until they are deforming the threads. This little tap puts the load on the washer where it needs to be.

[@samiam247]

Perfectly done, what's happening here is, there's a little slack in the threads, when you tighten the bolt it's using the back face of the threads, when you hit it with hammer the front face of the threads are contacting leaving more slack in the back face to hit it again. great job!

[@TechnicianRed]

So many people can't comprehend how this works! You give me hope!

[@thetruespartan2204]

Honestly, I've been a mechanic for about 15 years and I've never thought to do that. Your a freaking genius bro. Gonna use this on my Jeep Cherokee soon.

[@khriszty2000]

You should also hit your oil filter with a hamer. It helps.

[@MoonPawsz]

"And this was the last we ever heard from him"

[@terrynieman4711]

Looks like whoever made the brake assembly was dreaming of there china doll and didnt machine the burs off worth a shit !

[@TickyTack23]

@@terrynieman4711 Sometimes customers don't want to pay for that.

[@TryhardEh]

it's not genius at all. If it needs to be crushed more, tighten it more. Hitting it with a hammer will just fuck the threads up. This does absolutely nothing.

[@n1pster3]

Great tip! To everyone complaining, there are no downsides to this way of getting the copper to properly take shape. Just dont take a sledgehammer and put all your might into it. you'll be okay.

[@mikem2183]

I've tightened quite a few bajos in my life and I was skeptical about leanring a new tip, by the end I had changed my mind. This is a good tip people, he gave it a love tap, not the show stopper. I can imagine lots of people complaining about this technique.

[@marshallmcdonald7309]

47 years working on vehicles & this is the first time I've ever seen this. Great tip.

[@spudth]

How many leaky banjo connections in 47 years?

[@Dillyg978]

There's probably a reason you've never seen it before. Those baby taps didn't do a fucking thing 🤣

[@ShiftTechPerformance]

​@@Dillyg978 I mean...you literally just watched him get an extra 90 degrees of rotation after the "baby tap", so I'm confused by your assertion. Are you suggesting that the hammering was all for show and that the extra rotation at the end was "movie magic"? You don't believe that the initial hammer tap could transfer enough energy into/through, the various components/alloys involved to result in the plastic deformation required to accomplish the additional rotation of the wrench that immediately proceeded it? -or- Are you suggesting that; regardless of the fact that he managed to accomplish additional "crushing" of the crush washer, seemingly without increasing the torque applied to the bolt, the likelihood of a leak occurring at that juncture has not been reduced in any way (or has increased due to...[w/e reason])? I'm just trying to grasp what "fucking things" those baby taps failed to do? ;)

[@Dillyg978]

@@ShiftTechPerformance he could rotate it more and it would tighten the washer more😬😬 Jesus ur dense

[@trevor5933]

Thats a fucking great tip. Reman calipers are always hard to seal completely. Doing a pair on my 04 Chevy 3500 Express box van right now and that did help. Thanks man!

[@krazykyle393]

Or just sand it smooth

[@bookkeeper9902]

Just use the old washers

[@therandomwire1]

Spent my career wrenching. Retired now. Great tip. I've done this a few times. Not always required, but works when the sealing surface is compromised.

[@thedunzelmon]

Definitley a solid tip. Another good one is to anneal the copper gaskets. Will make the copper softer amd crush easier.

[@AtlasReburdened]

I can only imagine what copper crush washers come as annealed as they can get.

[@janfourie7590]

@@AtlasReburdened copper tend to become hard with age and annealing it before use is required

[@Ian_Burt]

25yrs Master Mechanic and that's a new one on me. Just proves there is always more to learn. Thanks, this is a good tip.

[@Airman..]

Sky is the limit

[@MAD1450]

I agree

[@Butchsiek]

When I was an apprentice sheet metal worker on the railroad. I made a suggestion to my journeyman. Saving time, money and metal on a project. Still did it his way.. After lunch foreman calls me into his office. He told me, to do what I'm told and keep my opinions to myself. When I'm a journeyman I can teach my apprentice my way. My journeyman got a other project, told me what to set the shear in depth and the direction of the metal to be cut. I looked at the print and I saw that he was cutting the metal wrong direction. So I cut 100 4ftx8ft 16ga. To the dire tion as I was told.. I cut 100 sheets wrong.. Once they were all cut, my journeyman, said aw phuck.. He went to the foreman, they both came over took a look see, made a comment about cutting them wrong. I said, I knew I was cutting them wrong.. Foreman, why didnt you say something? I was told to keep my mouth shut and do what I'm told to do.. Look on his face was a Kodak Moment. Ordered 100 more sheets.. I turned to my journeyman and said, you are never too old to learn. You just learned you screwed up and I could have saved you.

[@brettjones9943]

No a good tip hear the washer be like new and do up normally ha ha

[@pedtrog6443]

Sometimes maintaining harmony on the job site is worth the cost of inefficiency.... sometimes not

[@TinyPaperClip]

as a mechanic this makes so much sense, i thought you were going to overtighten it and maybe break the bolt, but this is a safe way to seal the washer more

[@Gottenhimfella]

Even safer is to anneal the washer first. Heat it red hot, let it cool (or if in a hurry, it's fine to quench it; only steel hardens when quenched). Clean off any scaling (it'll come off easily but don't scratch the metal). You can still do what's demonstrated here but it will be much more effective. It will need re-annealing every time it's reused.

[@donnafoyster6381]

​@Gottenhimfella If you have access to a heating element, oxygen, propane ect. And if you are permitted to utilise a heating instrument in your workplace, i.e., not working in oil, chemical, gas or blast facility. But what I'm sure you ACTUALLY meant to say, AWESOME IDEA.

[@ccjohncc1]

This technique has been around for a longtime and not commonly known as many say it won't make a difference after you share with them this very useful technique.

[@scottdelaney98]

The main reason it's not commonly known is that it's nonsense. If it did anything at all (which it doesn't) it would be weakening the brand new threads. Application of the proper torque with a large enough wrench does the job.

[@Pappy63]

Good tip! I've been wrenching for 40 years and have never thought about or seen this. We learn something new daily

[@silveracer9]

Great tip! Been in the biz a very long time, seen more than a few leak. This is brilliant! 😊

[@t-bfr45-70]

I have gotten to where I anneal copper washers before Installing them because a lot of the new ones have just been to hard I probably would have used a flat file on that caliper to.

[@silveracer9]

@Edward Elizabeth Hitler Where were you when I've stayed hours after work trying to get a caliper to seal while a customer sits and waits to get back on the road. As an ASE Master Tech, I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort, could have just called you so I could learn to do it right, thanks for the tip Dick!

[@alexscott8736]

Man they really ought to spot face the seal area during the reman process...

[@tomnovak7731]

Most I've seen do.

[@jiritichy6855]

Porting tool!

[@phiksit]

I had a problem where the spot face was slightly too deep ended up having to add a second washer to stop the leak.

[@VorsprungDurchNik]

Too deep and the fitting doesn't seat right and you're wasting time looking for thicker crush washers.

[@mtraven23]

right? hitting it shouldn't be nesessary, but a metal-metal seal, even with copper, against that cast surfaces is always gonna make problems.

[@skypilot23]

I just went through this and will try your tip- yes! My bolts easily tightened further than I had them afterward

[@justinterrapin942]

Awesome. I’m not a mechanic really but working on my brakes knowing this helps. Great tip.

[@sixstarauto]

I've been doing this job for 20 years, this is genius.

[@canceledczech457]

Another tip, OEM washers are MUCH softer copper, just flip the oem washer and reuse..changed more calipers than I'd like to remember and never had one leak

[@frankieatjumbleend4867]

You Sir are a pro! 👍✅ From one mechanic to another.

[@frankieatjumbleend4867]

It's always good to see someone else who still knows the 'trade'. Most people these days can't even change a flat tyre. ✅

[@pauboh3718]

We learned in ship mechanic school to heat the washers red hot and dump them into water, so they will be softer and crush better to seal against the surface

[@chrisliquidr597]

Supposed to do the same thing if reusing copper washers on aviation spark plugs

[@antonyaiken]

That's because aviation and nautical engineering requires some kind of knowledge. Where as mechanics on cars torque bolts up to spec then hit them with a hammer so they can over torque them on critical fasteners 🤦‍♂️

[@Amin.Ashraf]

​@@antonyaiken yeah. Certification is not a requirement to be a car mechanic but it still requires knowledge, at least some. But still, I never seen a mechanic hit a bolt with hammer to tighten it.

[@TheDodgeGuyBrandon]

​

[@ComicusFreemanius]

yep and you can do that for fuel rail bolts and washers that go on aluminum too.

[@johnchamberlain1624]

I’m a self employed mechanic 45 years WHY DIDNT I EVER YHINK OF THAT TOTAL LEGEND 😂

[@claytonp5118]

I started doing this at work thanks to this guy even on power steering bolts and it definitely works

[@keith6943]

I can't believe it, 20years worth of changing calipers, and I never tried this, I also never had a comeback over leaking calipers either, but this is still a smart way to be sure you have proper crush and seal. Bravo!

[@MRMechanicRC]

It’s people like this guy who have taught me how to fix stuff

[@DS-qy3qv]

Brilliant, doesn't damage the threads and allows the seal to properly form.

[@guypehaim1080]

Good one! Maybe you could come up with a tool that will smooth the casting surface around the connection much like the tool used for cutting a new seat of a sink faucet.

[@tonyfremont]

This is actually genius, just don't rotate that washer after seating it the first time. For those freaking out about thread damage, there is more clearance on the unloaded side of the threads than the washer crushes overall.

[@j.e.honiball1327]

You should be putting new copper washers in every time you open it up anyways

[@paulh2981]

@@j.e.honiball1327 I think he meant don't turn the washer when you re-tighten the bolt after whacking it. A tiny bit of oil on the bolt head side of the washer might help to prevent the other side from turning.

[@thegreatgali1739]

​@@paulh2981 You might not even need it. Crushing the washer against an imperfect surface should make it a "custom fit" washer and it won't spin.

[@JosephLedbetter]

@@thegreatgali1739 The washer replacement is recommended because it's compromised like the Titan submarine.

[@modquad18]

Yeah, makes sense on the thread clearance.

[@paulm.4028]

Ive been wrenching for the better part of 14 years from anything light to heavy, and I just learned something new! Thanks bud!

[@vonnieboy7878]

Instructions unclear… now my caliper just exploded

[@SouthSideChiTown]

I did airframe repair in the military, trained in alloy identification, hand forming and Fabrication. Includes Drilling and tapping. That's a great trick and doesn't damage the hardware or the threads. Thanks a lot! I'm going to use that.

[@CryoSignal]

Honestly this is a great tip for all banjo connections. Allot of turbos use them for oil/water

[@speed284504]

Brake calipers are meant to survive harsh vibrations. Turbos aren't. Please don't hit your turbo with a hammer...

[@CryoSignal]

@@speed284504 a light tap from a hammer is more than fine. Especially on journal bearing turbos

[@huntguy3831]

@@speed284504 What do you think happens you hit a pothole on the interstate? The engine isn’t on air and gets thrown around just the same if not more than the passengers do.

[@ValentineC137]

@@huntguy3831 but absolutely nowhere near as much or as harshly as the brake calipers and wheels do

[@speed284504]

@Hunt Guy drop a caliper on the ground and it'll probably survive. Do the same with a turbo and it'll shorten its life if it doesn't break something from the first drop. Moreover, turbo fittings are machined to begin with and don't need all this extra effort.

[@Loafus_Grumps]

i was shown that in the early 80's as an apprentice truck mechanic.

[@Byrd819]

You know about this in the 80's and kept it to yourself? 😂

[@outdoorfrenzy]

@@Byrd819 some people just want to watch the world burn 😂

[@philip5940]

Trade secret is a trade secret until someone wants to score YT hits.

[@m0ondoggy]

I've always used the back off, slightly, tighten, back off again, tighten method. I'm going to give this a shot. Great tip, thanks.

[@edge2sword186]

I always use the old washer because they seal every time because of the multiple sealing rings the factory washers have .

[@craigconcrete5936]

I used to just use the old ones, until the one on transmission was dripping big time after oil change, and a new crush washer stopped the drip.

[@terryharvey4811]

Makes sense. I've had them leak under braking even after torque to spec.AND then a little more. THIS WOULD WORK.

[@kw2519]

What’s really going on here, is he’s releasing the tension of the threads. The thing is, if you hit it too hard, you’ll start to deform the threads. If you calculate the difference in major of the bolt and the minor of the caliper, you can find the amount you can move the bolt in before it begins deforming the threads. Good idea IF you don’t hit it too hard.

[@adaycj]

You could do a calculation. And unless you knew the real thread engagement it would be wrong. You could also put a dial indicator on it and push and pull on it after it is threaded in a bit, a much better practical test. None of it matters though. You know it's gonna move a tiny bit. Smack it like the video showed. If a steel banjo bolt skips threads from that little whack, you just saved a line from blowing out of the hole during an emergency stop. Rebuilts are.getting worse and worse. The more checks and verification the better.

[@kw2519]

@@adaycj the indicator is the easy way to check slop. If this were not going into a cast thread, I wouldn’t be worried. But cast iron is soooo brittle. The calculations aren’t difficult, either. You can easy check the class of thread with a gage. But ya, you can just be careful and not hit it too hard.

[@adaycj]

@@kw2519 The ASTM A536 grades of nodular cast are not brittle at all. This is really more of a toughness thing anyway. I bet if you just put a banjo into a caliper part way and applied force until there was movement from thread failure that the bolt would suffer most of the damage.

[@ronmoore3987]

He didn't hit the nail on the head, he smacked the banjo bolt on the head Roscoe !😆

[@brandonl1052]

An actual mechanic tip that isn't basic mechanic knowledge. Now thats refreshing

[@jordanharvey2163]

I appreciate this tip. I was just dealing with this on an envoy today. Remanufactured calipers, new brake hoses, tight but kept leaking during bleeding process. I didn't know the Hammer trick. So I took off hose, used a wire brush on my drill , cleaned surface, sanded surface, cleaned with brake Kleen then used my vise to squeeze the copper washer flat and then re installed. So tight and smooth. But your idea is faster for sure.

[@rogerringold616]

So its a LACK OF QUALITY MFG

[@Gold63Beast]

16 years. You learn something new everyday man.

[@stonedmega1]

20 plus years of wrenching and you've taught me something new, thank you. You got yourself a new subscriber.

[@420sippin]

No way your a mechanic you should know hitting the top of a bolt doesnt move it deeper its got what we call threads so this is shit

[@centurion726]

it was a horror to have to replace these the new one always leaked, I wish I had learned this 45 years ago ... thanks

[@Cent51]

You not the sharpest tool in the shed are you, but you will fit right in with this guy.

[@Cent51]

@@stonedmega1 Look at you, you know how to look at a profile, well done another small minded thing you learnt on a short!! Try harder tool.

[@Cent51]

@@stonedmega1 I never delete comments you Doos Poes, however the Tube shadows because it might hurt your guys feelings..

[@paulpz04]

This might be the very first KZbin tool tip I've seen that's both smart/proper and will be used by someone

[@honda90084]

Just tried this last night an yes it works. I could tighten my banjo bolt a little tighter also. Thanks for the tip, I'll always use it now

[@XxcfirecraftxX]

As someone who's broke off more than one banjo bolt trying too fix leaks, I wish I'd had thought about this sooner.

[@PanSlayah]

Great tip. I've heated them up a little and that helps too

[@donutdan1508]

Great idea. That should anneal the copper and allow it to conform to the rough surface more easily. ✌🍩

[@supertramp6011]

@@donutdan1508 amazing how few people understand annealing. That caliper surface is shocking, should be machined smooth.

[@anythinganytimealways]

Oof

[@platinumsky845]

​@@t-bfr45-70 you just said "don't anneal it, you should anneal it" The water just makes the metal cool enough to handle faster, either one will get it equally soft

[@opotime]

Anneal is what i do too sometimes and to loosen a Joint i hit it with a Hammer first... Why anneal... because, Cooper is Not "Cooper" and if you buy from the wrong Manufaktur you need extrawork

[@Laggyness]

These are the kinds of tips that can save you time and money. Free of charge. Thanks dude!

[@shonez5527]

Saw this video a while ago every single time I do a caliper I do this and never have any issues thanks to ur video so thank u very much it has helped a lot

[@christophercastor6666]

Fucking spectacular tip. I can’t believe how many times I have used impact for Removing fasteners, but hot damn you just saved a 1000 worries over stripping out verses crushing for a good seal. Spectacular. Thank you.

[@carlosyt2]

Why just crush the gasket with your long box wrench when you can use a hammer to send your caliper threads to the strip club 🤣🤑

[@muaythai1187]

Great tutorial. Fixed the slight leak I had. Thank you.

[@aterack833]

It’s rare I see a tip that actually teaches me something

[@bobkuhl]

Thank you! With this tip I was able to fix a small leak in one of my banjo fittings. Genius! Thank you again.

[@patrickmattucci6915]

Thank you so much for the lesson, as long as I've been working on cars I've never had anybody show me this method.

[@nathanhale7444]

I've been a shade tree mechanic for 25 years and have never heard of this. It makes such perfect sense I don't know why more people haven't figured it out. Duh! I'll definitely add this to my list of techniques and am looking forward to giving it a whack.

[@jayyoutube8790]

Makes sense. Never thought of that. However I’ve never had one go bad on me that I know of. I’ll keep that one in mind. Good video, thank you👍🏻

[@plkracer]

Been doing this for a few years, works great, and you don't have to torque the bolt to failure. The imprint really shows when you pull it apart.

[@maddawgnoll]

Finally... someone gives good advice on KZbin shorts

[@agtronic]

Your explanation in the pinned comment is perfectly right, the threads are loaded on down facing edge, so when you knock the bolt down with a hammer you are unloading the threads and squishing the crush washer. This is a trick we often use on heavy equipment to break loose filler plugs that are sealed with crush washers. One whack and you can take the plug out by hand usually. But all that said, I’ve never seen banjo bolts leak unless installed wrong, but that’s a whole other conversation. Good on you for explaining your method in detail, too bad 80% of KZbin users are braindead and can’t understand it.

[@TechnicianRed]

Congratulations on being in the top 1% of the KZbin comment crew! This gives humanity hope!

[@androidphone1901]

Damn it's a good idea bro. From the looks of it this should prevent having to torque the bolt to failure

[@ethelmini]

Increases the probability as he's reduced the available yield in washer. The torque needed to compress the washer will be closer to what's required to make the bolt yield.

[@androidphone1901]

@@ethelmini interesting concept but I'm wondering, did he not use the force of the hammer to yield the washer that would have otherwise been done by the bolt itself? Meaning the bolt being tightened again after the hit, is just to tighten it but not to form it to the gasket surfaces?

[@platinumsky845]

​​​@@ethelmini you don't understand how bolts and seals work do you? Yeah, he's reduced the yield because the washer is more compressed now. The question is, do you want to get that compression by straining the threads or by a non-straining impact?

[@RICARD01]

Now you've destroyed the threads. *BRILLANT*

[@Chris-hx3om]

Think about it! The bolt is pulling up on the threads. That is, the lower side of the threads in the caliper are loaded against the upper side of the threads of the bolt. Hitting the head of the bolt with the hammer will actually push the threads APART, not harder together. It's an excellent tip, not a thread destroyer...

[@fandango_buttlicks]

Nice job bro, actually learned something from a utube short.

[@kalblades]

There is a bunch of good shorts to learn from. You just have to search for them a little and give them a thumbs up and the KZbin algorithm will send you educational shorts your way.

[@waynedavis7245]

Great tip . I had a old timer show me this tip years ago. It works for other things too .

[@kairu_aname]

For those "Never had a leak" guys, usually the customer doesn't come back to you for the same complaint after they get a leak from you

[@guzmangil5476]

Orr... Just temper it. Put it cherry hot and then into cold water. It'll soften. Same for diesel injector washers. You'll won't risk the threads.

[@yorgh_drakeblood2101]

That was my concern is the threads stretching

[@richardriach5775]

Yep Annealing.

[@r0ckworthy]

That's a great idea, that does make copper WAY softer. But it's not called tempering that's called annealing.

[@guzmangil5476]

@@richardriach5775 yes, that's the proper word. Didn't know it in English.

[@dwartfarquart9590]

Only 4 from the top! There is still hope for mankind!

[@RatsnRods]

Huge help, KZbin must be watching me cause I’ll be putting my axles back in next week

[@narimannourizadeh3693]

I was a mechanic and never seen or heard anything like this before but I’m glad I learned something from it thanks for sharing

[@AMJ.7]

You have no idea how much this has helped me God bless you Thank you 🙏🏽 from Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦♥️

[@craigtroxler6022]

Been working on cars for years. I never did this. Thanks it really is good advice

[@doitallpro]

Wish I would have seen this before breaking my banjo bolt 🔩

[@ororion]

At least they have a hole for removal….

[@kylesebring]

Ive seen a lot of people do this with head bolts with basically no effect, but this I can get behind.

[@BleedingOath]

This could not have popped up at the most PERFECT time lmao, literally need to do a complete brake job including calipers too! Thanks for the info man 🙏🏼🔥

[@anthonyd8932]

That’s a sweet idea. I’ve been tightening them bolts for years thinking I’m gonna strip them to get that crush seal

[@GT380man]

It’s a good tip & one I’ll be using from now on. Another is to anneal the copper washer too. Heat it to glowing in a gas flame, drop it in water to quench it. Now more ductile.

[@markfullerton7174]

Really helps with the quackability!! Lol

[@philipgorham388]

The right way to do it

[@i_commission_dspriscilla_a7486]

Thats hardening. Less ductile

[@wirefeed3419]

@@i_commission_dspriscilla_a7486 You are correct but only when working with Steel and other alloys. Heating Steel to specific extreme high heat temperatures and rapid cooling in water or oil different levels of hardening occurs. Copper is not the same, heating copper to red hot and quenching does actually anneal the copper making it soft for bending or shaping.

[@Wasper216]

@@wirefeed3419 Exactly! Copper is a work hardening metal. The more you work it, like with a hammer, the harder it gets until it becomes very brittle. But if you heat it up glowing red and then quench it in cold water, it becomes soft again. That’s why shaping with copper requires several steps of working, annealing, etc.

[@pzakkly3976]

All the years of working on cars no one has ever showed me that trick and it makes perfect sense lol thanks for the tip got any more

[@williamdegener]

You got me wanting to do this a year after replacing the caliper

[@vapecatt]

Ever since I've seen this, I do it every time now. Works great

[@ih8thishandle]

Thanks! Perfect timing also, I have to replace all the calipers on my car next weekend.

[@Rob-sr9rj]

What kind of car is it and how old? It's rare to have to replace calipers. Don't get ripped off.

[@ih8thishandle]

@@Rob-sr9rj it's an 8-year-old Mazda with over 145k, living in the Northeast. I drive over 30,000 miles a year on my vehicles and generally every five to eight years I end up having to replace calipers because of the harsh conditions I put them through.

[@Deeked]

I needed this tip a few months ago on my remanned caliper. Had an ever slight leak. And now I know.

[@angiesmith9196]

Ive been doing this tap-tip for about 10 years now and yes this is an excellent tip that does work. You dont damage the threads or anything else.

[@tsunami770]

Hey, thanks I was just about to change all four hoses and banjo bolts!

[@Meal_Team6]

This man just made an analog impact wrench

[@EZ-D-FIANT]

No he didn't......

[@chadjohnson2853]

Old school… the best school

[@jamessellards7157]

Great tip, I've been dealing with some of these problems. Thank you

[@yosecretsquirrel]

I love the contrast between fresh parts and road rash.

[@gimmesomesugar]

That's a great tip! Thanks for the video.