Mercedes ML320 430 500 ML55 W163 engine mount (Driver side) replacement the easier way

How to replace driver side motor mount on a W163 ML350. I have tried to explain as much as possible to save time in order to undo the mount without taking the compressor off. Be patient and work the swivel socket to your advantage. It should take roughly 3 hours. Be careful and double check all the bolts and nuts to avoid any potential accidents or failures due to negligence. Thanks for watching!

[@peterroy6801]

Excellent! Thank you so much! One slight point. On my ML350 six-cylinder, the driver's side top front/left T12 did require me to move the AC compressor out of the way. I think on the eight-cylinder versions, the engine mount bracket is longer and there is more room to do the job without moving the compressor. Next time here is how I would go, passenger no brainer, drivers side problematic. 1) On jackstands, both wheels off, both wheel well shields off. Keep the airbox in. Don't move the coolant tank. 2) With the engine still down, remove the little 10mm engine fan shield bolts, lift the serpentine belt off the top idler pully. 3) With the engine still down, remove all three AC compressor t12s - one of these is the lower left engine bracket. 4) With the engine still down, remove the three 10mm on the heat shield. 4) With the engine still down, remove the four bottom 16mm engine mount bolts. The rear driver's side nut is a bitch, I had to chain three universals to short 16. 5) Lift the engine with the floor jack. A 2*6 or 2*8 cut lumber at about a foot long. 2*4 is not tall enough 6) Use the 18mm offset spanner to remove the top engine mount bolt. 7) Ok here is important: get yourself a real 1/4 by 12Torx. It will be hard to find. (3/8 by 12Torx will not do.) Add 1/4 universal and get the top front engine bracket bolt 8) The other three 12T engine brackets are no prob. 9) Swap out the mount, and reverse the steps above. 10) But here is the frustration. The rear bottom 16mm, is almost impossible to get back on and tight because it is blocked by the top of the CV axle. I have a ratcheting 16mm crowfoot on order, it's the only sane way I can see to tighten that nut. Or the ML can live without it by maybe double-nutting the front stud? Cheers.

[@CaptGregOlsen]

Awesome video - very clear and professional

[@roamwashington2230]

Thanks for the video,I tackled this job last night took me many hours,I did have to loosen up the ac compressor to get that last e12 off,I only did the drivers side took forever lol...the mount was completely shot.this video is the first one that shows that you need to remove the heat shield bracket,it's basically impossible without doing that.i hope I never do this job again it's a nightmare...but doable with patience 👍 😀

[@gasNgears]

No worries bud, glad the video was of some help. It is a bit of a challenge, but once the job is done , it makes a huge difference! Driver side is the harder one, to be honest. The passenger side is much easier than the driver side. Cheers 🙂

[@niks5378]

I have to say this is one of the best done info videos.Great job and thank you.

[@gasNgears]

Thank you @niks5378! Much appreciate the kind words sir.

[@longhuynh5249]

Did you have to remove the bolt that holds compressor to the engine?

[@gasNgears]

@longhuynh5249 yes, I did remove that long bolt. Made it easier to work around it.

[@CrucialSpeaks]

VERY GOOD VIDEO!

[@LisendraDayDreamer]

No need to jack the engine ?

[@gasNgears]

@lisendradaydreamer yes, you'll need to lift the engine to remove the mount!