Mercedes S550 W221 Wheel Bearing Adjustment 2WD RWD

[@arnietwo11]

I did this job on my 2008, CLK sport with the same discs and calipers just before the MOT last time. I will do the same check again when its due in February ! Thanx for the entertainment Peter !

[@alaingillot4718]

If you have replaced the bearings , when it is all together , tighten the nut with a pliers tight , this will make sure that all pieces are bottomed out , then loosen the nut like half a turn , now tighten it finger tight , then back nut off by 5 minutes like on a clock , tighten the allen screw , you are done .

[@jessicaroselio522]

...or do it properly to specs with a cheap dial indicator

[@TP-wq4vi]

Best of the best

[@Dnasty1]

I was going to do this too with a different grease but is there a risk of contaminating it by using different types of grease? Also if there is some play in the bearing is it possible it can cause the rotor to move and create brake pad issues? I am having some steering wheel play, a sort of clank over bumps and the brake pads keep shifting.. i believe they are also the thing making noise.

[@LAactor]

That's funny at the end there. I wonder what was that straight piped vehicle that made you so amused.. I feel so bad about your finger and wonder what happened and how you hurt it with your work. Maybe you can warn us what can happen where you smashed your finger. These bearings remind me of the old style american cars with the adjustment nuts.

[@LAactor]

Usually I thought you pull the bearing out and put a bunch in your palm and press the bearing into the grease but maybe this is a different style that doesn't need that?

[@snorlax5104]

Can hitting a pot hole or running over curb cause the bearing to require a re adjustment?

[@Esteban_Herrera]

I agree the bearing is shot.

[@jessicaroselio522]

new bearing required

[@w124mercedes7]

I always pull the bearings. Clean them. Pack them and install new seals. And fill the cap with new grease. But I am super picky when it comes to my car. Did you get your air suspension issues fixed. Did you find the factory rims you talked about putting on inplace of the aftermarket

[@Esteban_Herrera]

His bearings are shot. The bearings should never need adjustment. The only way to get out of adjustment is wear. There is an inner and outer bearing. I too have repacked bearings. The grease he applied on the outside of the outside bearing will do nothing. There is a tool to take off the dust cap. Don't ever smack the dust cover the way he did. There is most likely a tool to install the dust cap. I just use an old ground down chisel and tap the cap's flange till it meets the rotor. He said there should be a gap, I say no. He smacked the cap and it is distorted. I suspect that someone that changed the rotors didn't remove the bearing race and install a new proper race. I have never trusted the races that come in the rotors. They are used for machining purposes, junk and not matched to the bearing. I use either Timken or SKF bearings. I'm guessing the bearings are A2 and A6, the same as on my Chevy. I have used bearings from a Mercedes box on my 70 El Camino and 71 Chevelle. His bad bearings most likely are spreading his brake pads causing a longer brake pedal throw. Good chance his inner bearing will grab the inner race and turn it on the spindle causing galling. Might even friction weld the inner race to the spindle. Inner bearings take the most of the load.

[@w124mercedes7]

@@Esteban_Herrera yea I laughed when I saw him smear a little grease on the bearing edge like it was really going to help anything. I was wondering if he was trying to troll us or what. When you have that much play in bearings its time to replace them. Its not like it cost much. I think all new mercedes bearing kit for my w124 and w126 was just over $100. Easy job. Next I need to do rear bearings. Has 160k miles so its about time

[@Esteban_Herrera]

@@w124mercedes7 I thought he was trolling too. I was a bit in shock. The only way I can make sense of this is he has no idea what he is doing. I didn't say that to be mean, he needs help. This video should not exist. He should have his landlord watch this video for advice. Wouldn't even need to read my comments.

[@markobako9116]

@@Esteban_HerreraI agree with most of what you are saying but there definitly is a gap between the hub and the bearing cap. It is a consistent gap of about 3 to 4mm all around. Idk why Mercedes does that but both of my cars have that. A 2007 c-class and a 1988 W124. To remove the cap you put a big flathead screwdriver in the gap and carefully twist it. Then turn the hub and repeat. The cap is tight in there but comes out in about 15s. To put it back place it in the hub and hammer it in until firmly seated with little taps of a small rubber hammer

[@Esteban_Herrera]

​@@markobako9116 I pride myself in not leaving tool marks. It was a must in my professions. Using a wheel bearing cap removal tool will leave minimal scratches. Smacking on the rim of the dust cap to install the cap will seat the cap properly. Got to figure someone installed the cap in the first place leaving no marks. The dust cap removal tool is sharp and gets behind the radius of the cap's flange. The cap's flange can be touching the rotor or hub if it's a drum brake or even a trailer hub. I have had an instance where the cap didn't seat properly. The counterbore in the new rotor was shallow. I have seen a hammer mechanic beat down on the dust cap to get the gap required to use a screwdriver. Thanks for responding.

[@markomare9081]

I guess no parking brake and P in gear?