Metal Building Insulation

Insulate Your Steel Building
Episode 532 Autorestomod
We talk about the struggles with getting the building finished due to back orders. We discuss and install the insulation we got from LTH Steel. While the stock insulation is just OK, this product offers us an R13 rating and a vapor barrier. All in all a better deal for our building.
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LTH Steel Structures:
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[@67Stang]

Glad to see the new shop coming along. I am a bit jealous.

[@johnbarker5009]

That's coming along really well. I had no choice but to build my garage near the bottom of a grade, with no more than a few inches side slope from the middle to either side. I can tell you I learned it the hard way, do everything you can to move that water around the building. Your doors aren't going to stop enough water. I got it done, but on a part of the lot which is very flat and at the base of a grade it took time to find all the little dams that were invisible unless it was raining. It didn't help that a lot of the water from the roof of my house runs straight down the driveway to the garage.

[@CrustyOldCurmudgeon]

FWIW here in Michigan where heat is much more of an issue than cooling, most people pop for spray foam directly on the metal sheathing.. it can be applied to different thicknesses depending on your budget. the upside is it pretty much 100% seals against air leaks

[@HDR20]

and it will not get wet like fiberglass and tend to get mold

[@markm6444]

Mine is a just bit different, they used a metal lip cross base with a lip behind the metal studs instead of the tubular perlins. Which means it's 3 1/2 inches from the siding to the metal studs. I used 1/2" poly with foil backing with an air gap as a "vapor barrier" and first line of insulation. It leaves me enough space where I am going to use 2 inch foam insulation after that. Should end up with r10-15. Might still do some framing in between the metal to be able to hang drywall or osb. Definitely not as easy to finish these out as it is a pole barn or stick built.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Agreed. I changed the way I am doing the sections, which has helped with installing. I now have the white metal behind the "studs" and the fiberglass facing the metal as per the sellers instruction.

[@brandonpeterson8466]

Get brushes for your roll up doors to help with sealing out the elements and help with rattling. Also I've seen guys using the double bubble insulation on the roll up doors attached just with some magnets. The bubble insulation is flexible and thin enough to still allow the door to roll up.

[@brandonpeterson8466]

My metal studs are 4ft apart. Mine just came that way 🤷‍♂️

[@abbylx]

First comment after years 😊😃

[@todds5956]

Link to the ceiling insulation vid? Thanks

[@Spaceplant109]

Sound deadening

[@johnnyhotrod]

I’m jealous!Still waiting for materials to come down to even price a shop,it’s insane right now. That’s a lot of work,it’s gonna be great. I’d like to do a stick built

[@clevelandmaker386]

That's some good insulaton!!! my boss used that for his shop he's building! So .... when the Starliners coming? See plenty of space!!!!

[@sspadventures9374]

So, no vapor barrier between the batting face and steel outer wall? Unless the batting is a synthetic/antimicrobial, it will get damp and create mold. Im not familiar with that insulation product, so correct me if Im wrong.

[@markm6444]

Where was this video 2 months ago! Lol I just built basically the exact building. Vertical siding and all. Dealing with the same ft on center issues. Really not wanting to lose floor space framing the whole building out especially with sky high lumber prices. Great ideas though.

[@AutoRestoMod]

We're only giving up a total of 2.25 inches on the wall and a total of 4.50 inches of width to allow for an easy drywall (or OSB) application. But I get your point.

[@raymondyoder7095]

The condensation in that building is going have your insulation soaking wet and promotes mold

[@theinfernalcraftsman]

The joys of insulating a metal building. There are no easy or really good ways to do it after it's built. The best is to sheath it in 4" foam before skinning it but that is pricey. I have the usual R11 ish fiberglass that's pinched between the frame and sheathing so all that framing turns into big radiators in the summer. I have never had a shop with too much lighting or too many outlets. Yeah the 200 amp disconnects are tough to come by since they are required by more states now. I may have one or two new ones in the shop. The tall one that is just a 200 amp disconnect. Sounds like you might be wanting a feedthrough panel though. For doors go with hangar doors. They insulate better air seal better and when open they add shade outside the shop and they don't protrude inside the building.

[@Paulie1232]

I'm still getting notice of the videos, but no email which is ok because I never check my emails anyway....

[@DragPakMerc]

Haven't been getting the email notifications for quite a while.

[@DustinDippel]

@AutorestomodManicMechanicGasolineMedia where can I get a set of mirrors like you have on your F100?

[@domfer2540]

Are you going with a 400 amp box. This would cover all work projects and can recharge electric cars.

[@tertessa]

As you get older you sure can use more light..

[@AutoRestoMod]

Amen!

[@waldonherdman1447]

Be careful spraying something on a roll up door. They have to flex to roll up.