MGB performance engine build part 4, oil pump and pan

We continue the performance build for my ‘74 MGBGT Autocrosser. This time we are installing the oil pump and oil pan.
We discuss the most common mistake made when putting one of these engines together that leads to no oil pressure and requires subsequent removal of the engine to correct. We look at the oil pump, how oil flows through it, and how to check the clearances in it. We also look at potential oil restrictions within the casting of the new oil pumps and some minor modifications to reduce those restrictions. We then install the oil pan
This engine is a ‘74 5-main B series
Bored .060
Compression approximately 9.7:1
Wedged crankshaft
Balance rotating assembly
Maxspeeding 4340 H beam rods
King tri-metal main and rod bearings
APT VP12bk cam with CF-04 lifters
APT offset rocker bushings
Crane tubular chrome moly push rods
Lightened flywheel (15 1/2 lbs) for Datsun 5-speed conversion
Pro Sport sfi balancer
Fully baffled oil pan with trap doors and windage tray ( fabricated by me)
Ported ‘74 cyl head
Custom LCB header ( built by me)
Custom exhaust with hand made Flowmaster style muffler ( built by me)
Custom Maniflow style intake built for use with HIF-4 carbs ( built by me) ( final carbs will likely be a hybrid mix of HIF-4 bodies and HS-4 pistons and dash pots)
Re-curved 25d distributor by Advanced Distributors
MSD 6 AL ignition box with adjustable rev limiter

[@rscruiser3533]

Thank You ------ a lot of GOOD TIPS there that one can do and look out for even if one is just freshening up an engine ---- one always thinks--- would it be better off with a HI-PO Pump ----- but clearing out the --- flashing --- from the casting ---- some match porting ---- the Flow won't be as restricted and will have a better flow ------ Will have to let us know if you have any greater or lesser of oil leaks from the Cork Gaskets --- front and rear ----- after you get her going---- would be interesting to hear ------- Thank You again for another Good Video ----- Have a Good Week ----- Rodney

[@897firefly]

Thank you for the outstanding videos and tutelage on all you videos, I’m learning so much about my MG. Question- I understand the tolerance concerns, but with all the work you put into the oil pump rounding and enlarging ports in it, wouldn’t a stock (within tolerances) high volume pump provide even more flow? Thanks, looking forward to the next video!

[@mgbgtguy]

Yes it would, but I don’t need the high flow one. I just tend to take it too far and not stop at the simple clean up I initially am doing. Especially with my car where I can put whatever time into it I want as I’m not billing myself those hours 😂

[@can-cruiser]

Never actually seen a square oil screen in an MGB engine before and a corresponding square in the oil pan..Must be something to do with the "Autocrosser" build.

[@mgbgtguy]

I modified the oil pickup screen to be a little smaller, so that I could make the corresponding hole in the windage tray I built a little smaller as well…. For autcross

[@ianrenshaw6653]

Hi thank you for the excellent videos! I’m starting to rebuild my engine and thought to change my main studs over to arp. They seem to be very tight and hard to get out. Some people have said not to disturb them and that the oem are strong enough and don’t give any issues. What are your thoughts on removing the main studs and replacing with arp? Thank you!

[@mgbgtguy]

That depends on how you use the car. For normal street use there’s no real need. I have ARP in this engine as an insurance policy as I will beat on it pretty hard and have no problem with turning it 5000+ rpm’s

[@ianrenshaw6653]

I do have arp bolts on the rods but wondering if the main cap bolts need to be changed as well.