MICRO 3D Printing with a 0.1 mm nozzle

[@scottramos7949]

I have found that filament choice is very important when using micro nozzles. I've done a lot of testing with a 0.15mm nozzle. My best results have been using natural color filaments. I suspect these work better because they do not have the added solids found in the dyes. Most my micro nozzle printing was done with natural ABS. Printer, Lulzbot Kittaz. Original testing with 2.85mm filament before changing over to a 1.75mm hotend.

[@zweck4629]

I second that. I had issues with micro nozzles constantly clogging with pla that printed just fine with a .4 mm nozzle until I switched to natural pla. Most people should probably switch to .6mm nozzles anyways though, faster printing and I have yet to have it clog up even with wood filament.

[@Adventium_]

I feel like most of the people who would say "why not just use a resin printer if you want high detail?" probably haven't used a resin printer

[@Nawmps]

They're not that tough to use, but they do have a learning curve much steeper than that of FDM printers! 99% of the difficulty is realizing that all the tricks you learned for FDM printing don't apply to SLA

[@matisan8407]

or maybe understand how to print in resin without so much crying. I don't understand how he generated so much garbage for a few prints. they could all go on the same bed, it was 1 run. He clearly also wasn't using a mono. Honestly if you do have a resin printer and know how to use one it is much better, faster, cheaper and more reliable and less fiddly than messing around with a .1mm FDM nozzle and waiting 30h for something that looks worse than what you get out of a resin printer in 10 minutes. I could have run off the same comparison prints and had the waste of 1 pair of disposable gloves. I mean, he doesn't even have a wash and cure station! It's like saying FDM printing isn't worth it and all you have is an M3D micro as an example.

[@Adventium_]

my point was more that resin printing is more hands-on and not the same as FDM, not that resin is worse somehow resin is absolutely the better choice for high detail prints

[@oneproudbrowncoat]

Resin SLA sounds great, provided one has the resources. As best I understand it, an FDM machine can run safely in many more environments.

[@jaycenotsoanimations9216]

My first printer was a resin printer and I’ve had it for 2 years, and have made 2 things with it… 😬

[@AngeEinstein]

How about printing a "multi material" print, where you use a 0,4mm for the whole structure and a 0,1mm for the details only?

[@Jordamson]

I love this idea. It's when interswapable hotends mid prints come in, I remember seeing a video about it

[@JefeInquisidorGOW]

That's what I thought, you can even step up on nozzle size for even faster printing without losing detail

[@Jordamson]

@@JefeInquisidorGOW exactly. It's such a good idea, the only other idea could be a nozzle that can change the opening during prints. Surely that's possible

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

@@Jordamson actually if you move the nozzle faster the extrusion width would be smaller (because fluid physics). You don't even need anything mechanical to achieve that.

[@Jordamson]

@@FlameRat_YehLon I've used that before but it isn't near as accurate as using a 0.2mm nozzle or likewise

[@jannes351]

I'd love to see what you could do with that Toolchanger and the micronozzle. Could you print the infill and inner walls with a large nozzle, and the outer wall with a micronozzle, for the best of both worlds?

[@DiThi]

You can probably print 0.3 walls with that same nozzle though, judging by the size of the flat part.

[@peterzingler6221]

Sure but you would need one toll. Change per lywe

[@roseroserose588]

that would be cool to try, not sure if you might run into issues with matching layer heights with the big nozzle

[@kaseyboles30]

@@roseroserose588 Yeah, you would likely need to run the smaller nozzle near it's upper limit and the larger at it's lower. Those the range of layer sizes you can successfully get at a given nozzle size is quite a bit more than one might think. I think .15 and .3 might be a better mix though.

[@TheVideoGuardian]

@@kaseyboles30 I think it's theoretically possible to get a slicer to interleave multiple layer heights, since I've done that before by adjusting g-code with a script. (It was for thicker infill layers, to reduce print time. I recommend z-hop and low travel speed if you try this.) Here's the thing. Even without a tool changer, you can print wider than normal lines from any given nozzle. EG an 0.2 nozzle can print up to 0.4mm wide. There is a video on this channel about it actually! It would seem to be even better with a tool changer, because we get an even bigger range of widths to choose from. (Eg 0.1mm for detail and 0.8mm for bulk fill) However, I think such an extreme difference in width would only really be helpfull for solid parts that require high surface detail. (Geometry and layer height issues) For a difference of 2x or less, you can just use a signle nozzle and adjust the exterior line width in just about any slicer. Tool changers are still awesome though. If nothing else, it means not needing to swap the nozzle every few prints.

[@SianaGearz]

I have micro nozzles at my disposal down to 0.2 but haven't used them yet. I simply can't justify a resin printer because i live in a constrained space and would have no way to separate myself from the fumes and for sure will use my FDM when the need for something small and detailed arises. I have tried nickel plating a nozzle recently (self made nickel citrate) and it actually improved the surface finish, seems like. I only have cheap nozzles. After an hour at 100mA, It seems to have constrained the size of the nozzle from 0.4mm down to about 0.38mm. I think i can use that fact to constrain existing cheap nozzles if i care a little. There is another option for micro printing which solves the radiant heat issue: nozzles with an airbrush tip. E3D style nozzle top, which an airbrush nozzle screws into from the bottom. You can buy them inexpensively. They were invented by René Jurack i think, also the developer of the small precision DICE FDM printer. Airbrush nozzles are available between 0.1 and 0.5mm in size. The airbrush tip is made from stainless and radiates little heat, and gives you some distance between the hot brass and alu parts and the print.

[@j.p.9522]

Ooh I’ve never heard of airbrush tips, neat!

[@toddspeck9415]

Awesome to read that about airbrush tips.

[@therealmakmillion]

I, too, use airbrush nozzles with great success.

[@MarinusMakesStuff]

Just so you know, it looks like your print cooler is broken at the point where it screws onto the radial fan at 8:28 (top of the frame).

[@CNCKitchen]

It has been for a long time, though still holds on some fibers 😁

[@MarinusMakesStuff]

@@CNCKitchen Haha, I had the same. It's amazing what a drop of ca glue can do for small parts like this! :)

[@JaySmith-tf2uf]

@@CNCKitchen Do you have an etsy shop? Lol I'd love to have miniatures made that I can cast into a gamecube A button.

[@tristansimonin1376]

I have a 0.1 mm chinese nozzle and it's work pretty well for me

[@jayphone1]

I got cold chills down my spine when you startet milling through 50 bucks. 😱😅

[@3DMusketeers]

WOW the comparison using the lengths of filament is pretty crazy! 6mm for a whole dang benchy!!! Gorgeous prints, but of course the expected issues. Engineering is amazing really! Nice video!

[@xargon1234]

i did this with a trianglelab .1 nozzle 25% benchy came out great and only took a hourish it funny when i show even people that have 3d printers a pic of it sitting on a dime

[@UncleJessy]

“Resin 3D Printing isn’t for everyone” hey hey hey… watch it there 🤣😂🤘 Amazing video as usual! I’ve only ever gone up in nozzle size on fdm not down. Pretty wild to see the .1 in action.

[@markwilliams5654]

3d printing fdm is only worth printing brackets resin is the way forward

[@thirtythreeeyes8624]

@@markwilliams5654 Sure if brackets are the only load bearing parts you need.

[@matisan8407]

I think he needs to watch some of your videos.

[@AstonJay]

I have also been to Japan in 2014 & again in 2017, and I will say that Japan really earned a special place in my heart just based on the people, their culture and their absolute attention to detail and function. I will trust these nozzles far more than any other cheap part from ebay or aliexpress.

[@emmettturner9452]

Seems useful for small gears that I once thought required resin printing.

[@projecthivemind3239]

Did you have any luck with resin gears? Mine are always have rough teeth - maybe something anti-aliasing could fix, but definitely something a laser resin printer could solve, I think.

[@emmettturner9452]

@@projecthivemind3239 I planned to get a resin printer to try but other people beat me to the end goal… a replacement POM gear for TurboGrafx-CD and PC Engine CD-ROM² drives. Now I can’t justify a resin printer just yet but I still have ~10 FDM types. :) Wish I could help.

[@habretho]

it would be cool to see you revisit this option as part of a tool changing system to see if having different size nozzles would effect the printing of precise parts and their overall strength.

[@RaphaelAguirre]

the macro shots are absolutely gorgeous, this are very beautifully made nozzles

[@deanteasdale8261]

This video is perfect timing, I was just about to start scaling down some little cogs I designed to try with nozzles below 0.4. If the cheap ones don't work I'll know where to go 🙂

[@randomidiot8142]

Google knows everything.

[@BadgerRobot]

I have decided i hate resin printing for the exact reasons you state here. I still use it because I want the minis to print and game with. It was tempting to try this nozzle but your comparison was spot on and I'll keep using the setup I have for resin. Thanks for the detailed and entertaining review!

[@Leruster]

I was waiting for that kind of nozzles for some time: well made and precise. I have to say, I totally agree with your approach to 3D resin printing. I'd get one long time ago but I really dislike the waste amount, smell and danger related to using these materials. I might try this nozzle! Great video!

[@rcmaniac25]

This is fascinating to me for a couple reasons: 1) I did minis for a bit and don't like resin... so I saw stuff like E3D's 0.15mm nozzle but lacked steppers with high enough resolution to do anything with them. I got one but it sits in it's box as I hear Sanjay's laundry list of challenges play through my head (heard them in person from ERRF 2019). 2) 3D printing started as "can we make this work at good enough quality/speed/size?" but aside from enterprise craziness (like Joel's videos), consumer printers have stagnated... and I feel a lot of what is needed to go further is a combo of hardware and software... (lead into point 3) 3) It identifies the problem points in existing systems: gearing, cooling design, software hard-limits, motion system limitations, etc. and gives a chance to fix them 4) Finally, it starts the feedback loop that IMHO seems to be discussed more then applied in 3D printing: improve, push bounds, find limitations, repeat. How many 3D printers are just rehashes of existing designs? Another Chitu system. Another i3 clone. The community seems restless... and then stuff like Voron makes a splash and does great... but seems to get speed better... but doesn't seem to address cooling or make input-shaping standard (it's optional but recommended for Vorons from what I read). Without continuing down that tangent, doing stuff like "how do I print really small" and hitting software limits, material limits, even conceptional limits of "is this really worth it or is a different tech better?" opens the question of "ok, what needs to get fixed?" to continue the loop instead of just making yet another system that is the same as the prior. One day... but awesome video.

[@timonix2]

Ever since I bought my resin printer I haven't used my fdm printer. It's just soo good. It's way faster and far more detailed. I have gotten my workflow to the point where I can remove the parts, clean them and cure them within 20 minutes.

[@spokehedz]

Now this just makes me want to make the smallest CoreXY printer that has ever existed!

[@Enclavesown3414]

Same!

[@umbratherios5614]

Properly tuned small nozzles are HEAVILY underrated...

[@Thor110]

Incredible. Great presentation as always, many thanks to you for creating such amazing content. Plus props to the nozzle manufacturer for creating something so impressive.

[@ameliabuns4058]

I wish you compared it to 0.2mm and all that too! I wonder how it'd work in combination with a 0.6mm nozzle for other stuff (infill and inner perimeter)

[@henrychan720]

For resin printing, I just pull the part out without removing the build plate and use water washable resin. I also put a carbon filter inside the printer. Helps a ton with controlling the mess and makes it almost as easy as FDM.

[@LanceThumping]

Rare case where microplastics are the goal instead of the problem.

[@mrnlce7939]

The smallest layer I printed was 0.08mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. I was a Benchy scaled down to 20mm tall. It turned out great.

[@Guhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh]

I made a moai statue with 0.05 mm layer height and it looked really cool

[@PossumMedic]

Every time I wonder why I didn't get a resin printer I see someone mention the smell and remember! xD Thanks for the vid!

[@raa6504]

I bought a 3d printer to tinker and prototype, never thought I would get sucked into this rabbit hole.

[@benjaminjohnson6476]

This video is fantastic! Its crazy were fdm printing is getting. And in that light you should check out Polymakers lightweight PRE foamed PLA! It is around 65% the weight stiffer than other lightweight PLAs and can be printed with the exact same g code as normal PLA! It would be super interesting to see its properties under your stress tests! Maybe a new champion for strength to weight?

[@cdsmakestuff]

In our studio I have some printers dedicated for certain tasks… an ender 3 (for example) with some light mods is dedicated to a 0.2 nozzle for small detailed parts on some of products that a .4 nozzle would never be able to resolve… it has worked very reliably, the hardest part is getting the first layer just right.

[@AndrewHelgeCox]

We need a Voron sub-zero to drive these fast in a tiny build volume.

[@Fenlandia]

Stefan is my favorite nerd, gakking out over craft made nozzles (can't blame him, they are very pretty!).

[@thumbwarriordx]

I actually got one of these in a big pack of assorted nozzles. (not this brand obviously) I did not bother trying to get it working with my printer lol The .2mm nozzles were slow enough for me already.

[@reyalPRON]

The chatter on the last part of the 0.15mm nozzle can and will increase the surface area creating a larger meltzone ;) physics is cool

[@eduardoanonimo3031]

In my Monoprice I go up to 240-250°C for PLA... I get shock when you said that you're able to print at 180°C... In my chase as more liquid its the plastic better it flows

[@scottwilliams895]

@12:41 Would multi-nozzle printing with this tip be possible? Bigger tip for bulk, and 0.1mm tip for fine surface details?

[@rickyschadel1333]

the japanese always make such cool stuff

[@Carbon_]

Reducing nozzle size is a great way to gradually reduce the weight of 3d printed parts. First printing with 0.4mm nozzle then going with 0.3mm then going 0.25 and i keep doing this until the part is not strong enough to resist the loads. Then i am keeping the part printed with the smallest nozzle diameter that didn't break, this is how i reduced the weight of my 3d printed plane by almost 40%, going from 0.44mm layers to 0.28mm

[@arthurmorgan8966]

4:15 cuteness overload

[@0oSiLveRo0]

All I wish for is easier changimg of nozzles on fdm prints. I hate heating up the nozzle every time and screwing/unscrewing the hot nozzle, especially hate how it's not exactly precise on my prusa mini, leave a small gap isn't calming.

[@darkonikolic8377]

Good and very interesting video. Although not a fan of SLA 3d printers they are irreplaceable when it comes to transparent objects, flexible materials, small objects and details. Surely it's unpleasent, but magnetic plate, wash & cure station and few more tools made SLA printing much more convenient.

[@joshua43214]

I really appreciate the insights here. I am in the process of designing a very small printer that will run at very high speed specifically for printing with small nozzles at small layer height.

[@chazbennett7771]

Funnily enough I've been super interested in using tiny nozzles for 3d printing. I bought a huge pack of assorted nozzles off Amazon for 10-15$ I think it was. Now I know why the smallest I could get to work isn't just because of my Bowden setup, but because I got something super cheap! Either way considering my applications for the tiny nozzle diameter is essentially just for prototyping, and since I've only had a couple of models that could take full advantage of them I'll stick to .3 as the smallest for a while.

[@squidcaps4308]

Try 0.24 if you can get one.

[@chazbennett7771]

@@squidcaps4308 fun idea, got a good website to get one from?

[@kaseyboles30]

@@squidcaps4308 I've used a .25 copper nozzle I got with a fairly cheap mixed sizes set off of amazon on a nearly stock ender 3 pro with decent success.

[@Koto-Sama]

i just bought a pack of mixed size nozzles .2 .4 .6 and .8 to try out. what a timing XD

[@acakrnjaic1452]

Wouldn't it be cool if we could do nozzle changing on 3d printing like cnc guys do with their cutting bits, do the big parts with 0.6 and 0.8 nozzles than finish tiny details with 0.2. Tool changer would probably do it but I don't think any slicer can do slicing like that. I print architectural models and there is always some set of columns or a detail that is too small for the 0.4 nozzle and than I need to switch to 0.25 or section and glue that part back which adds a lot of unnecessary time and work. Something like MMU equivalent for nozzles would be so cool.

[@randomidiot8142]

CNC quick change tooling doesn't have tool warm up times. Your cycle times would be insane if you didn't have all of the nozzle blocks preheated. You could do a turret style, but then you have the issues of having multiple 'tool heads' on a turret zipping around instead of just one. Or you have to have each tool head warmed in a rack pre primed with material and a repeatable mechanism to attach and detach hundreds of time per print to the gantry. Not impossible to do, but making money selling machines like that might be difficult.

[@acakrnjaic1452]

@@randomidiot8142 I did really think to change the nozzle itself that would be veru complicated but i think possible, but something like a E3D toolchanger could have different nozzles on different toolheads that can be preheated to 160 and the heath up time would be very small and they could di the same job.

[@thiagosannafreiresilva4366]

How about printing minis that come with modelled in supports for resin?

[@someguy2741]

Maybe do a series on filament degrading at slow printing. I suggest using only clear filaments. This will limit the test.

[@JanCiger]

Stephan, *don't* use the adhesion spray inside the machine! The spray goes everywhere and will accumulate on the rails, along with dust - acting as an abrasive and damaging the surfaces over time. Don't be lazy, take the bed surface out and spray it there, never inside the machine. BTW, any tips (which extruder/hotend are workable?) on upgrading a common consumer printer like a Prusa or Ender to a 3mm filament? I have ton of this filament because of my Mendel90 machine.

[@SpinStar1956]

I highly recommend the 0.2mm nozzle from Micro Swiss. I get extraordinary quality and detail on my small parts. Just use for small parts as time-to-print will skyrocket!

[@DamnCyrus]

I'd never try it just for the sheer amount of time used to print something but it does look fun. I'd love to do Resin printing but the post print work looks sooo time consuming. I'd only print the rare bust and miniature, but for the quality. Maybe a giant resin printer for perfect Helmets and cosplay bits but the start up cost of that is ridiculous. I can get acceptable looks with my fdm printers with some priming and sanding.

[@terryrobison]

Lovely machining on that nozzle. It's a work of art. I could never get my toolchanger working with Cura - :(

[@Duckers_McQuack]

I just ordered myself 3 trianglelab nozzles. As a complete noob in printing (yes, i've yet to figure out how to setup my firmware lol) I print great with 0.4, but ordered 0.3, 0.2 and 0.1 nozzles from ali, and will test how they fare on my E3D V6 hotend and trianglelab dual drive extruder.

[@qg786]

I think the smallest I'd go is 0.2mm for a close to precise part, as my prints are all metric measurements and 0.2mm goes well in whole metric numbers for example 0.2mm x 5 = 1mm.

[@modifyman6977]

I just connected a .1 nozzle and was attempting to determine a K factor through Marlin's Linear Advance Factor page. Clogged it. I figured this would be a challenge but I should had looked at some videos first. Easier than unclogging my hot end.

[@jayphone1]

Suddenly your Voron is a giant 3d printer for this nozzle.

[@capthowdy126]

the pre an post processing for the resin printers was what really got me, it always took more time in the slicer for the resin printer an the clean up. i love the finish tho but i only use my resin printers for stuff thats really small with alot of detail or if its something i just have trouble with on my fdm printers due to thin walls like small fan ducts always come out looking cleaner for me on the resin over my fdm, but for anything structural fdm is my go too an thats what ive found myself print way more of lately over stuff like miniatures or busts.

[@LekkoFoxmur]

Would a thinner diameter filament and matching extruder be better suited to fine nozzles? I would imagine there would be a sweet spot for the ratio of filament diameter to nozzle size.

[@UnitSe7en]

"Which upon opening..." 1:50 at this stage I thought you were going to say it smelled like cherry blossom.

[@jonbondy]

Regarding resin printing. I purchased a UV flashlight, and when I remove the parts from the printer, I cure them immediately with the flashlight (being sure to not aim the flashlight at the build plate if it has any resin on it). If I have to wipe up resin with a paper towel, I immediately hit it with the UV flashlight. Nothing is sticky any more. Give it a try!

[@kkuenzel56]

Would the precision of the Japanese .4 nozzle equate to better prints over most garden varieties of nozzles?

[@GNARGNARHEAD]

I had great luck with 0.3mm nozzles, the quality increase was noticeable and it wasn't a terrible increase to print times.. any smaller and the inconsistencies of cheap printer and parts were too much of a headache. awesome to see it done right though

[@laiquocbao2565]

It's the fact that the motion system of the printer, which only consists of relatively low-cost components, can achieve the precision movements for the 10% benchy that blows my mind.

[@creamofbotulismsoup9900]

I have used cheap .2 mm nozzles with almost no issues, haven't gone smaller than that and I don't use them often as I don't need the extra detail they provide. I also agree the the supports that Prusa Slicer generates are pretty terrible especially if you use large or small nozzles, Slic3r never had that issue. I wish they didn't decide to skip layers on the support material, or at least give the option synchronize the support layers with the object without forcing you to have a 0mm contact Z distance.

[@octothorpian_nightmare]

I had a great time printing out tiny tanks from the Bergman collection with tiny nozzles like this. Once I get back to model railroading, I'll probably try a bunch of N scale stuff. I didn't fool with the settings much, so thanks for the temperature hints!

[@SLU2MOVIES]

Ah yes. Just what I needed. Normally i print with a 0.2 and a 1mm nozzle. 😁 just bought a 1.2 nozzle. Now I need to buy this one

[@billallen6109]

Im curious how well it would work when using a tool changer. Can they hold the accuracy needed to use a larger nozzle for infills and the smaller for the details?

[@blobishlybelfer2717]

What if you use a double extruder setup with a big nozzle for the infill and a tiny one for the surface?

[@Reach3DPrinters]

Nice! Ive done 0.05 layer heights with transparent materials and they came out as clear as glass in the Z direction. Ive not done much with smaller diameter. Print times, as you mention, skyrocket!!!! Would be GREAT for printing train set miniatures. There are a LOT of Z scale Micro train set dioramas, building a world would be expensive, unless its 3d Printed! I always wanted to build a glass top coffee table Z scale train set, with control knobs on the outside for lighting and train speed, and track selection. Would be a REALLY cool coffee table! Only seen a couple online, and they are cool, but lack a real sense of realism.

[@mamatuja]

The chatter on the inside of the nosal is a good thing because of the increased surface for better heat transfer.

[@heitooooor]

I would even say it's probably intentional. You can see they went a bit deeper with a smaller bit, by the step in the cone profile. And they could have chosen that bit in order to leave that longitudinal (flow's direction) microgrooves and improve flow's resistance. Who knows...

[@mamatuja]

@@heitooooor No it's not intentional. They used different tools to get to the end.

[@NoraIconiq]

Though Im interested in both fdm and sla printers I currently have a fdm printer and I want to be able to print both big and small things with it so this tiny nozzle is quite a attractive option. Even more so as I dont have a lot of space or a good environment for a sla printer. Considering resin is highly toxic when uncured theres a lot of prepartions needed that isnt always necessary for a fdm printer.

[@Angelo_Aus]

That is crazy small !! I found it quite interesting how the dynamics change at such a small scale. It's not just a matter of slapping on a smaller nozzle and off we go. You've demonstrated other logical considerations that would never have crossed my mind. One that stuck out was how long the plastic stays in the nozzle as it "travels" 😂 As always love your work 👍

[@spencerhanson7808]

If you get the g code with supports for a larger print designed for 0.4 mm nozzles, couldn't you go into the firmware and trick the printer into running the axis like they are geared. Essentialy scaling down the movements to match the nozzle size.

[@pr0xZen]

To be honest, for this I imagine a scaled down printer, shirinking everything but the linear rails and mounts. 75x75x75mm build volume, 0.5-0.75mm filament, tiny stepper or servo for geared down extruder... The wole thing, with external controller, could probably fit in a 2-2.5 liter heated enclosure, sitting silent on a shelf chugging along for days. Or have 30 of them on a table.

[@theninjascientist689]

I don't see why the filament needs to be scaled down?

[@kuuhgle]

Multimaterial IS possible with resin. It's called Multijet and works without mess. But the printer is about 100k$, however you can order prints online

[@vbgaming6203]

Imagine the detail you could do with these

[@EazyRed]

being a precision machinist who makes shit way smaller then that nozzle on a daily basis... that really is well made, not even a scratch

[@blacklight683]

Him: 2:15 Me:hehe screw review

[@AerialWaviator]

Fascinating and am surprised at the amazing results that are possible An interesting application would be to use a printer with two different nozzle sizes. Either a two-nozzle printer, or first printing with larger nozzle and swapping to add final details on top surface. There is probably some interesting situations where using a nozzle size between this 0.1mm and more traditional nozzle size. For example, would expect layer bonding strength would be enhanced at smaller nozzle sizes.

[@3DJapan]

Joel is always making prints bigger. Stefan choose a different route.

[@natewygant8085]

Hey just received the .4mm cht nozzle! It’s working like a charm!

[@CNCKitchen]

Great to hear!

[@justinchamberlin4195]

Great video! I once got a 0.1 mm nozzle in a cheap Chinese variety pack...unsurprisingly, it never worked. I have, however, had relatively good success with 0.2 mm nozzles in printing things like miniatures - it does take some work to get it dialed in, and I think it's one of the few things that my modified Ender 3 does far better than my Artillery Sidewinder X1, but until I finally make the jump to resin 0.2 mm is more than sufficient for my needs.

[@geoffreyguez]

I thought the thumbnail was clickbite bit actually..it's impressive !

[@CNCKitchen]

Never!

[@geoffreyguez]

@@CNCKitchen I'm thinking about purchase a 3d printer, is the creality ender 3 a good choice ?

[@teitgenengineering]

You should test this with the Highly precise prusa nextruder

[@arthurmorgan8966]

This nozzle would be fantastic for printing guns and accessories for my kids’ action figures. They get lost or broken over time, I could print something easily. Never wanted to deal with the resin mess.

[@defenestrated23]

Oh man I could print the Lego knight armory I always wanted.

[@gonun69]

Hey Stefan, I wanted to buy some of your threaded inserts, but the link in the description doesn't seem to work anymore. Are they still available?

[@TechieSewing]

How do you dispose of that resin waste, especially dirty liquids? Everyone seems to briefly say those need to be disposed correctly but don't mention how exactly, and which countries are actually equipped for that.

[@amarissimus29]

I've found varying layer height far more versatile than varying nozzle sizes. I rarely use my .25 nozzles any more. You end up pulling your hair out every time a tardigrade clogs the tip, which is every five minutes. I have some parts that I can't tell apart which were printed with 0.25, 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles @ 0.15 height. Save your time and use as large a diameter as possible. My only recommendation to someone who must use a tiny nozzle is to use only one polymer per nozzle and to pass your filament through a cleaning clamp on its way to the hot end.

[@teitgenengineering]

Great thumbnail 👍

[@Jamimation_]

The support removal must be both frustrating and easy. Bear in mind you would have to be precise with removal and careful but the thin layers would make for an easy removal

[@PhilXavierSierraJones]

Remind me to buy a 3D printer later.

[@xbox360Rob]

Get another one and do dual color 0.1mm mini prints, please.

[@LampDoesVideogame]

You should try some small pieces, with meshmixer supports.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

"Just look at it, it's so beautiful" it's also a consumable..

[@radarmusen]

I wonder, just think if it was possible to use dual head where one nozzle was for fine and one for the big unseen center.

[@metacob]

I set up my 3D printer in a small basement room that has almost zero ventilation. If I ever add a resin printer, that could be interpreted as a "desperate cry for help".

[@bentlikeitsmaker]

May want a titanium heatbreak or similar

[@Epiphalactic]

I have some cheapo .1 nozzles, I think I'm gonna try it out.

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

To me, the biggest issue about resin printing isn't even about how much post processing needed, but just how you can't take a part designed for FDM and print it in SLA. I mean, no/low support prints is a real thing and it can only work for a specific printing method. And it's not like 0.4mm only has 0.4mm of accuracy really. FDM printing uses vectors instead of pixels, so besides layer lines, SLA isn't that much more accurate.

[@crussty3d]

That is a BEAUTIFULLY machines nozzle! Since you have a tool changer at your disposal, why not print hybrid? Use the tiny nozzle for the perimeters and then speed it up with a beefier orifice for the infill. Would this not be the best of both worlds?