MINI: Erratic Idle Issue, SOLVED

-Rare Erratic Idle with no fault codes stored to directly link to route cause.
-All MINI's from late 2006-2010 With S and non S models. (N12 and N14 engines )
--- Also see my newer video on " Top 9 Reasons Your MINI is Running Rough " --------
-Informational
-- Video Correction: N12 ( non turbo engines ) have double vanos and two solenoid valves. One (exhaust) located in front of engine by dip-stick, and the other located at the intake shown in the video. --
----- follow on instagram mikemds_
------------------------------------
-Cause: faulty Solenoid valve.
-Part #11 36 8 610 388
-Retail price $200.
-labor involved 1.5 hrs plus clearing faults with scan-tool.
-Tools needed 1/4 ratchet, with 2-in extension, magnetic 10mm 1/4 socket if available, 7mm short 1/4 socket, long needle nose "like" pliers to pull part out and flat-head screwdriver.
---------------------------------------
Other things that can cause rough idle on these engines are listed below (assuming the basics have already been done and checked like ignition coils/ plugs , oil level etc.) but usually set fault codes that will help you diagnose.;
-Timing chain guides broken : caused erratic idle, metallic noise when reving engine, extended cranking when starting and sometimes a complete no start situation. Sets timing fault codes as primary faults.
-High fuel pressure pump faulty: Causes extended cranking, rough idle and engine misfires. Sets engine misfires as primary faults. Check fuel pressure data at time of fault If it is below 4 bar then needs High fuel pressure pump. Some cars have extended warranty for this issue.
-Carbon build-up on intake valves in cylinder head: Causes rough idle and rough acceleration at times. Has Super Knocking and Misfire Fault codes stored as primary.
-Faulty diaphragm in valve cover ( pcv valve). Causes suddle rough and sometimes high idle and a sucking air noise at valve cover. Lean mixture fault codes stored as primary.
-Stuck open tank vent valve: Causes long cranking at start-up. Especially after refueling. and rough idle that will clear up as engine warms up. May have fault code stored for lean/rich mixture and jammed tank vent valve.
-Faulty Throttle body: Causes Rough idle intermittently and mass air meter plausibility faults as primary with no other faults stored usually.
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[@rogerrodriguez2227]

I want to thank you so much Mike, that this situation happened to you and for you posting this because this is exactly what happened to me after repairing a warp head from overheating, sending the head to the machine shop, and after the first... it started to do that engine idle, with misfires in all cylinders codes. and after finding and watching your video, I got to work, removed the Solenoid, cleaned it, removed the screen added power to the switch, sprayed it with contact cleaner, replace the screen then reinstalled it, started my mini and the idle was perfect!!! I hope my comments help anyone else that had the same situation happen to them... I tried cleaning first before buying a replacement solenoid... wow they are expensive!

[@DanEvans-yb6wk]

How expensive and from where, please? Mine is doing the same thing. Thank you for the excellent presentation! I subscribed.

[@adamhughes4442]

Same. Mine is misfiring. Worse when cold. The mini is so problematic!!!

[@PogonaCraze]

I've taken my car to the mechanics three times in my life time. One at a local shop, one at a european car specialist, and the last at a mini cooper dealership. The first time, they failed to fix the issue and I was able to fix it myself with a new intake solenoid. The second time was at the specialist and my car was misfiring so a fuel injector and the thermostat were "replaced" (which I found out a year later, they didn't cause I tried plugging in the old thermostat and it was completely different). Still wasn't fixed, so the last stop was at a dealership in which they replaced all the things I had already replaced including spark plugs, coils, new injectors, etc. Needless to say, they couldn't fix it and told me I needed a new engine. At 75k miles, I didn't think it was worth getting a new engine, so I took it home and looked up videos. I was able to fix all the misfiring by simply replacing the dirty fuel filter in the fuel pump. They didn't even look at it! Now I'm not saying it was the sole reason my car was not working properly, but I got cheated twice and paid a lot of money just to be told I needed a new engine when they completely overlooked a simple replacement. Thanks to these kinds of videos, I was able to save myself from spending another couple grand. Please keep posting videos, no matter how simple of a fix it is. You could save someone a lot of money. Now my code reader is reading cylinder 4 is misfiring. I'll be strolling through your videos! Thanks 👍

[@TonyTony-je8tc]

Thank you 🙏

[@chakusdvds]

I'm getting a 1497 code-- could it be the dirty fuel filter? Thanks, Mike

[@precisiont5188]

The Ford dealerships I have gone to are also very incompetent and deceitful.

[@joeyjamesrisamasu9599]

Hello there, did you find out what the cause of cylinder 4 misfiring is? I have a 2002 R50 and have the same problem P0304 cyl 4 misfiring, I did a compression test and it is indeed below 150 psi. It could be the intake/exhaust valve I'm assuming but I'm not sure :"(

[@theglaucusblue]

Of all the videos to help me diagnose my rough idle on my N14 r56, this was the answer. I had many but not all the symptoms of every other video, and I was really hoping to try anything, but replacing or servicing the timing chain (as this had been done only 20k miles earlier). This same solenoid was my issue and was SUCH an easy and cheap fix. We're back running smooth. Thank you very much.

[@MikeMDs]

I am very happy this helped in your case. Thank you for sharing.

[@andyproctor5513]

Was chasing the same fault. After changing both O2 sensors, saw this - Solenoid replaced and sorted withn minutes - thanks for sharing this, saved a lot of time and money

[@MikeMDs]

Nice! Glad that solved your issue. It was a strange one.

[@brothermalcolm]

O2 sensors was mentioned by my mechanic too but at a huge cost!

[@moleson02]

Wow!!!! Just spent 6 weeks replacing part after part seeing error code after error code and this was the problem. This post just saved me from dumping a car I just bought 2 months ago.

[@MikeMDs]

Heck yeah! Glad that helped

[@milank2964]

I'm on the same verge

[@wenghingtang2361]

@@milank2964jc kkjyvvvkvv bY bb p l?bvvbvbbbbbbvvv vb hbo vb n/ ? Nu

[@romanpokidyuk2905]

Hey Mike! Thanks a lot for your video! Ive got same issue with my Peugeot 308 '13 with mostly the same EP6 engine. After a cold start, when engine starts to drop for a normal idle like 740-760RPM - this problem occured. Also - car starts shakin very violently when you first put it in a gear, no difference whether it be D or R. And once again - no failures or check-engine, no fault codes on both ELM or Lexia (basically - special diagbox for Peugeot\Citroen). I've tried everything from new coils & spark plugs, i've changed petrol station twice, even opened the valve lid and checked the timing chain - everything seems fine! And then I've found your video with the exact same problem, so i've chandeg the solenoid valve and voila! Everything finally works perfectly! Thank you man! Big respect from Russia!

[@tammyr8587]

What a GREAT video! We rebuilt our N14 and are just dealing with all the lights on and an intermittent rough idle. Makes sense to check this one as the head made 2 trips to the machine shop! Thanks bunches for your videos! God Bless you.

[@MikeMDs]

Thanks for the info and the sub!

[@robinhosleftfoot]

Had same issue on my 2007 Cooper S recently. Changed plugs/leads and still had cold start issue. High Pressure Fuel Pump changed too. Sorted now, drives better than ever. MINI's are renowned for Fuel Pump issues as second time replaced now.

[@puppacito]

Do you run it low on gas often?

[@robinhosleftfoot]

@@puppacito fill full tank, then fill up when 3 bars left (10 bars on guage). Does this affect it?

[@patrickwarden2933]

Great video I'm trying an aftermarket solenoid just for the test if nothing else. It's a used car I did timing chain, head gasket, shaved head by hand, replaced oil pan gasket cleaning out that film in pan, replaced water pump, installed new plugs w aftermarket coils, new f bumper support, sanded and wired brushed front frame/suspension, new backing plates (factory only) and wheel sensors. All aftermarket except front backing plates and all work well so far. Injectors need to be sanded like a piece of tubing to fit back in if you have high miles or they wont pop back in. I had to clean mine twice pretty well at 207K.

[@MikeMDs]

Wow. Its a project of love )

[@parkersloan1973]

My car has had this problem for years. I’m gonna go get this fixed, thank you!

[@MikeMDs]

Did it work?

[@panaderialynn8490]

A good rule of thumb with these engines is to be careful about running fuel injector cleaners through your fuel tank... it can cause funk to foul up your oil and cause the VANOS solenoids to become clogged(ask how I found this out 😂) if you do run cleaners through I recommend changing the oil after the tank of fuel is almost out. You can spray the VANOS screens with brake cleaner(try not to get it on the plug) or let it soak in the acetone.

[@BobmaxXD]

I’m now reading this after putting liqui moly injector cleaner in my 08 mcs

[@oliverdahl8328]

Thank you so much! I had same problem with my new rebuild N14 and now it’s good with new solenoid!

[@MJ-xm1jb]

Wow I literally JUST had the same symptoms on my, 2011 R56 N18, and I turned out to be the, Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, which is located on the fuel rail. Runs fine again. I'm going to go back in to Change both VVT Valves, tomorrow. Thanks guys

[@MikeMDs]

Very interesting. Glad you figured your issue out. Best!

[@bransonrhoads3063]

This is actually super helpful, my gf’s car got a cam sensor code and a maf code, replaced them both and it hasn’t done anything, so I’m gonna replace that solenoid now and hopefully it works!

[@cindybelisle9439]

What was the outcome?

[@christophersiwale7218]

Did it work?

[@grantr0n]

God bless man. I have had so many issues with my same spec 09 and frankly having to go through every single possible fix before getting here wouldn’t have made sense relative to the value of the car. I’m going to try this. I appreciate the video.

[@joelparas2508]

I actually own a Peugeot 207 GT which has the Prince engine almost the same as this one. Thanks for letting us know what fixes you tried that didn't work. That's not embarrassing at all.

[@GeoffsPhilsInfo]

Well done for finding the guilty part, sometimes I think back to the old 1959 Morris Minor, just a handful of parts to go wrong, and a huge space to work on your engine, that said I collect a 2007 used 1.6 petrol mini cooper tonight 😊

[@osh241]

100% the issue on ours, took it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner and no issues since. Thanks!

[@MikeMDs]

Glad it helped!

[@sawdoctor0]

Had all those problems. Poor idle, high oil consumption, erratic auto box, fumy exhaust. Took out the PCV which was OK but the whole thing was SO coked up. Cleaned it thoroughly and it runs like new. Thanks.

[@MikeMDs]

Nice work!

[@ashishm8850]

My Mini is showing similar symptoms. Now I know what to look for. Thanks for the very informative video.

[@guyfogleman6465]

Mechanical fail vs an electronic fail, probably why no codes. good catch!

[@MikeMDs]

Thank you!

[@garyleegomez8670]

THANK YOU!!! Been having same issues with my daughter's '08 Mini Hatchback. Neither her nor I could figure what the hell was wrong. Your vid showed us the only thing we didn't check. Replaced the VVT and we both look at each and did a victory dance. Thanks again!

[@MikeMDs]

Great to hear!

[@albatross9127]

Wanted to post my Thanks for this video. I was having the same sort of weird problems after an engine rebuild. Errors were bouncing around from O2 sensors to MAF and none of that fixed the problem. Since I worried that some debris from the rebuild had plugged up the existing VANOS solenoid, I added a (messy!) step. I pulled the fuel pump fuse, let it run until it stalled. Then I put a big tray under the car, pulled the old vanos solenoid and then cranked the engine a bit to let it pump some oil and any debris from the oil galleys out the vanos solenoid hole... Cleaned up that mess, put a new vanos solenoid in, and it worked... I had one hint it was vanos related as my code reader showed that the vanos angles weren't changing, but that somehow didn't throw a code...

[@MikeMDs]

I'm glad your diligence paid off . Great job.

[@senorclap7874]

I know this is an old video, but figured I would still throw this in here. I had a similar rough idling issue about 200miles after I had to get a cylinder machined. Thought it was the fuel tank vent valve but after seeing this video I replaced the solenoid and it seems to have fixed it fingers crossed. I did lose the bolt for the solenoid so if anyone needs the bolt size it is a 10mm 6x16 bolt. There is another video of a guy actually doing the swap that is very helpful, recommend checking that out as well if anyone decides to do this yourself. Hopefully any of that was helpful!!!

[@MikeMDs]

Thanks for your input.

[@KirkReed]

Hi Mike, I am currently experiencing something similar on my 2012 R56 non turbo. I rebuilt it after purchasing it for $500 with head gasket blown. I have P00BD codes show up about 400 seconds after starting. Slightly erratic idle at startup, then smooths out nicely. It does have very occasional surging, or possibly no fuel briefly at about 3000 rpm, which can set the P00BD code (MAF too high air flow). Replaced the MAF, O2 before cat, and spark plugs. It has 0.5mm bigger pistons (non turbo pistons), and head was decked and serviced. Block was decked also. I have ordered a new PCV valve, so that may be it. It's been running now 30 days since finishing the rebuild. Smoked the intake and found tiny leak at intake cam sensor. Cleaned O ring, now no leak. My son is a ASE mechanic, and so far he's stumped. I am new to Minis. It's fun to drive, but can't pass inspection. I did see a lean code recently also... but not normally. I clear codes, my son clears codes at shop, and keeps coming back. Could it be one or both of my Vanos solenoid's? Intake/Exhaust solenoids were removed before head went to shop, so they were protected, and I installed them myself. Sorry to bother you, but after hours of searching, your video checked most of my boxes for my problem. I tried to replace almost everything I could with new parts that I thought should be replaced. Also, what is the valve located in the valve cover in the center next to the air filter bolt? Not the PCV valve, the smaller one? I took it apart to clean it while rebuilding motor. Did I damage something?

[@MikeMDs]

Mass air meter faults are almost always due to a faulty throttle body. The throttle body is plastic and starts binding also the plastic gears inside start wearing out. Every MINI eventually needs a throttle body once in its lifetime. Thanks for watching my chanel and subscribing Kirk.

[@KirkReed]

@@MikeMDs Hi Mike, UPDATE: I took it to Mini. No help. They actually put a new throttle Body in, and a new Mass Air Flow sensor. Kept throwing a P00BD code. They also did a TSB for another code (new DME software...). When I picked it up, they had it idling for more than 30 minutes (maybe 40...) and when I drove out I saw the check engine light go OFF! I drove straight to DMV and it 'PASSED' emissions. That means no check engine light, although the P00BD code was in the Verified (?) section, not in the Pending nor was it in Permanent section on my Blue Driver OBD2. After driving a couple more drive cycles, Check engine light came back! Now I have two years to learn about my car. My guess is, this P00BD code is a cummulative number based on time of Mass Air Flow over time. Since my pistons are 0.5mm larger overbore, I believe it's measuring correctly. I think there is a limit in the ECU that if it goes over that limit, it sets the Permenant and Pending P00BD codes, so the light comes on. I now know if I let it idle for say up to 45 minutes, turn it off, then it probably will turn off the light for a drive cycle or two. The Mini dealership did nothing other than teach me that idling will help turn it off. Nothing is wrong with the car. I just need to find out if the ECU can have that Mass Air Flow limit number be increased... Any ideas?? I don't want to 'Tune' it, but is that what I need to find? Someone to tune it? I want the ability to remap the ECU back if done wrong. I don't want extra performance, just not have the light off. I do have bigger pistons. That's why I suck more air over time. Thanks for listening. I cannot find anyone else with this problem. Maybe that no one else bothers to rebuild a std non turbo Mini?

[@KirkReed]

I also swapped the Intake and Exhaust solenoids because you had that trouble. I also replaced the PCV valve. None of that helped. I am of the opinion it's running fine, just bigger pistons draw in more air past the Mass Air Flow Sensor...

[@abdullahsoso118118]

​@@KirkReedhey, i know it's long ago, but did you fix it back then because i have the exact problem and i did the exact steps you did and still didn't fix it, hope you remember 😬😅

[@jb678901]

With a rough idle I would've also checked the PCV connection & its plastic hose too. The plastic hose connection between the dirty side of the valve cover and the intake manifold is notorious for cracking. Just take the OEM plastic hose (with its integrated fittings on each end ) out of the engine...pinch fittings at each end. Carefully cut out the fittings from the plastic hose. These fittings are simple BARBED FITTINGS at each end. Therefore, just go out and buy some 3/4 inch I.D. RUBBER hose of same length as the plastic hose. Slide on two hose clamps for the 3/4 inch hose, push those barbed fittings at each end and hose clamp them. This will solve the inevitable splitting of the cheap, thin walled, brittle plastic hose that is supplied with the car.

[@randfcs]

Question, have you seen any videos on how and where to remove the hose from? In the meantime, I just keep repairing it. I'm afraid to open a can of worms. Thanks in advance. ~Veronica

[@CessMC]

My N14 has erratic idle as well. Going to be giving this a shot, thank you Mike!

[@anthonygreen502]

I had the same problem which put the engine check light on,cleaning the throttle body cured the problem and reset the engine check light by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes Job done

[@keyvanram2195]

Ive done everything that you’ve done but I still have had the same problem, thanks to you I’m gonna try to see if this is the issue! Thanks man

[@MikeMDs]

I hope it works for you!

[@michaelbarefoot6334]

The N12 has two solenoids, one for each cam. My 08 Clubman (non-turbo) had a similar issue, but it was actually the broken plastic timing chain guild.

[@MikeMDs]

Thank you Michael you are correct, thanks for calling me out. I will make a note in the description. And thanks for watching.

[@autobotavengerfireballxl5339]

Every car has them it should kick a code my wifes ecotec 2.2 liter had the same issue

[@strongme80]

I had experienced erratic idle as well even changing out the VANOS solenoid. Of course the same route we all go through, changing plugs, coils, blah blah blah. So for the heck of it I checked compression. During a compression check, one of my cylinder (#3) was low at 120PSI but only when cold. I repeat, only when cold, at first start. When the motor warms up, the compression check registers normal across the board. So I shut down, then restart the idle is fine. So I found the fault to be the teflon injector seal. But unfortunately, if you were to pull the injectors, you need to change out all four since they're all attached to the rail by a tight viton seal. I recommend when you change the seal, no special tools needed for this, I have a trick, I just use a "Paper Mate Ballpoint Stick Pens 2006827", google it, it's the blue one that we all have used in our lives. I slide the teflon to the major diameter since it's the same diameter of the injector to expand the teflon. Once expanded, slide it off and put it on the injector. Cut off the pen cap leg, then use the pen cap to compress the teflon, give it a couple of minutes. When you remove the pen cap take no time and insert the injector before the teflon expands. Insert the injector one at a time so you'll feel it bottom out. Wear gloves and clean the injector seats extremely well, no oil must contaminate the teflon seal. Then when you have all four installed, push the fuel rail into position and tighten the four torx bolt. Bosch part # 2707010018. Easy peezee!

[@_alexandriaaa.]

Haha I literally just got this issue fixed on my 2013 Mini Countryman. It drove me crazy. Had to have my oil pan gasket replaced along w my oil pan adapter due to a crazy leak and horrible burning smell. Got it back and it was still rumbling like crazy, turned out to be something w the intake valve not fully being on and air getting inside 🤦🏽‍♀️ now I’m getting check engine light but it’s for the thermostat 🙄..

[@MikeMDs]

I know. It's a love hate relationship sometimes. More love than hate tho.

[@justinplet]

unfortunately we replaced this on our 2015 copper s and it didnt work. Had to send it to the stealer and they diagnosed it with a bad High Pressure Fuel Pump. $4200 CAD quote. I found a Bosch HPFP on Rockauto and had the local BMW specialist shop do it for $600. Still didnt fix the issue. Now the diagnosis is that the timing chain needs to be replaced because the HPFP broke it (they are connected) 30 hour job apparently. This car is a LEMON!!! This is our 2nd and last Mini. Our R56 Cooper S had major engine issues and now this has a major fuel issue. And we put premium, ethanol-free fuel in and only the best oils.

[@shesfromcryptonforthetech3198]

I had to like, comment and subscribe. Thanks to this video, I found and fixed my cars issue very quickly! Thanks!!!❤

[@MikeMDs]

I'm happy it helped. And thanks for the sub!

[@HVAC_Sean]

Cheers, man. This issue just began soon after I finished replacing a coolant hose and replacing all the valve cover gaskets. Perhaps a pieces of old gasket rubber or shred of paper towel found its way in that solenoid.

[@guyfogleman6465]

Happy motoring...love that phrase, I've sai it since I was a little boy...from the commercials 😅

[@MikeMDs]

Classic

[@Tadei7]

Thank you very much! this video saved me! i changed everything and the Idle was still abnormal! just unplugging the sensor made a huge difference. The motor is 8FP (BMW motor) that is in MINIS and also C3 (2011 - 1.4. VTI 95). My motor has 2 of those sensors, still not sure if both are a problem or only one.

[@HMC_LTD]

thank you for the video as it stopped my head-scratching on a friends car first tomorrow morning we will be removing and inspecting for debris thank you for taking the time for doing the video

[@MikeMDs]

Good luck!

[@themilktrayman7369]

Excellent job bro you may just have stopped a suicide 😂

[@swidahopapatnaghodach4776]

Thanks for sharing, another item to check on my rough idle no code venture.

[@lynxstarautomotive208]

The Ole MINI Blooper cold start tractor idle 😂. These cars are terrible, but am I grateful for them! Bought a house thanks to them.

[@jesusdvr1983]

Thanks I really appreciate what your doing I changed the ignition coils and spark plugs and was the same, I just change the selenoide and work's great. Thanks again Cheers from Tijuana México

[@precool]

I miss Mexico. I grew up in San Diego and we had a lot of fun at Laser Club Oh back in the day. Good people in that city. Not many party types take the time to respect the locals etc.

[@mvivanc]

Hermano pero el cooper tiene 2 solenoides uno de admision y otro de salida. El mini que tengo es 2013 cual cambiaste?

[@denisdimitrov5051]

Changed exactly this part with new original one. I have less ratle than this, but is the same. Car drives well, gives me good mileage. I think it's timing chain guides. Time to go to the service shop.

[@mafiadebo]

I’m having the same problem with no check engine light. Thanks I will change out the solenoid hopefully it work

[@MikeMDs]

I hope it works out

[@georgereeves3921]

Hi Mike I own a R60 Countryman Diesel 2013 . The problem is that I have is erratic idle on tick over I also tried holding the speed at 2000rpm, this was also erratic, once the car has been driven for awhile, take your foot off the throttle and then put your foot back on the throttle to pull away, I have a loss of power and the engine goes into limp mode, let the car stand for 3 or 4 minutes, it will come out of limp mode but still has erratic revs. The car has been in the mini main dealers for 5 weeks. So far, the parts that have been changed by the main dealer is the AGR Ventil, Glow Plugs, EGR Valves, and EGR Cooler, Pre heating Control Unit, Remove and install Intake Manifold, EGR Control, DP Filter cleaned on vehicle, EGR Cooler and Air Mass Sensor and DDE Control Unit Replaced, Walnut Blast and DPF Regeneration carried out. Then they removed DPF for thorough cleaning and replaced. After all this we still have the same problem. After watching your video which was very interesting, do you think the problem could be with the VVT Solenoid causing this? The car has only done 67,000 miles. Thanking you in advance for your help and reply.

[@justinflick6802]

Thanks this fixed my issue on my Mini!

[@precisiont5188]

Those are the same symptoms in my 2014 Ford Mustang V6 3.7. I did so much work on it and its almost gone but the car still doesn't have as much horsepower as before and it still has a rough idle. I also changed the throttle body and it didn't seem to help. I also replaced the mass airflow sensor, spark plugs, used sludge cleaners in the oil, cleaners in the gas, etc.

[@precisiont5188]

My car requires the valve covers to come off to replace the VVTs. Thank you for the insight. This might be it.

[@bondoman2k]

It looks like this might be my prob. 2009 Clubman, N12. Had a very bad oil leak on it, ended up replacing the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, and oil pressure switch. Here's the chronological order of repairs since January...put a new foot module (basically the fuse box), new water pump, thermostat housing, and the plastic pipe connecting them, then all the before mentioned gaskets, then the plugs and coils, then the upstream O2 sensor, and just last week the alternator and battery. Oh, in that time too I also replaced the throttle body valve as well (used one). That looked like it might have gotten soaked with all the oil it was losing, since it was all on the passenger side of the car. Car was running great, except for a very small idle issue, and hesitating a little on acceleration. Ran great last night, went down the street to the gas station. Came out today, it started fine but then the yellow engine light with the little 'half slash' thing came on after I went about 50 feet. Turned it around and parked. Then I checked codes with my little Autel reader, got the P1057, and the P1062 limp home code, and the P115D refer to service manual. Is it possible that this valve might have gotten soaked with the oil it was leaking (it was BAD, I was losing 3 to 4 qts EVERY time I drove it) since the leak was actually pouring out the same side all these issues I was having before are on? I'm sure it might also just be age, it has 138,000 on it but I bought it wrecked 3 years ago at 125,000 and the guy that owned it before really didn't take care of it very well. I know if I keep having probs, this thing is gonna put me in bankruptcy! :/ I had around 6 grand in it before all this this year, and I'm pushing 10 grand now!

[@MikeMDs]

Sounds like you are bringing this thing back from the dead. I hope it returns the favor and treats you well once everything is sorted out.

[@Timber81]

What's that song Kenny Rogers sings about a Gambler? With minis, you got to know when to fold, hold and Run Away!

[@aaf8030]

N12 cooper having similar issues. On cold starts its pullsates a lot until warm then after that struggles to idle and will cut out all together. Also feeling a slight chugging when driving under 2krpm as well as an odd noise when above 2k rpm. Ive recently had the sparks replaced new valve cover gasket thermostat and battery.

[@MikeMDs]

Its a tough one without checking things in person. If it has mass air meeter faults then it may be a faulty throttle body.

[@timwright848]

My 2008 mini threw up a P0015 code, checked it out …..VVT Solon oil fault, replaced both runs great 😊

[@RaWoodgett]

Same thing happened to my clubman. Took me a minute to figure it out. Resorted to parts swapping. $$$

[@user-uv6oq8mz5c]

Very good. Info and video👍👍 i have exactly that. Problem

[@MikeMDs]

Hopefully you can figure it out. Best of luck to you!

[@ManuelGonzalez-gd4wt]

Gracias me resolviste el problema ,desdé España un saludo

[@AR-xt8kn]

Thank you for hanging our flag the correct way round.

[@Djangostang]

mine is an oddball too apparently. Thanks for the insight.

[@MikeMDs]

Good luck

[@cosinus_square]

N12 engines (non turbo) are dual Vanos, they have intake and exhaust cam solenoids.

[@MikeMDs]

I appreciate that. Thank you.

[@robbier3661]

Please do jcworks f56 next time 2019 Thanks for doing this. 🙏😇

[@MikeMDs]

If I get one in I will ! Thanks !

[@ryancallaghan3084]

Hey I live way too far away from a dealership or anyone who can even work on my mini. My mini says it has a misfire on cylinder 1 I did new spark plugs, new wires, and replaced the ingnition coils. When she is above 2000 rpm she is fine but at idle it misfires and runs hard, but when you turn off and start back up again she runs fine as long as I don't go into idle.

[@annwilson3941]

Haha love the sounds effects description..

[@michaelsmith3456]

FANTASTIC information thank you.

[@willemstreutgers1154]

I recall those engines are made by Peugeot(PSA) One should maintain these engines with the right prescribed oil and shorten the intervals.

[@MikeMDs]

You are correct!

[@cashster0011]

Agree

[@cdmChase1]

Yep!!! a customer brought a £29 one from Amazon.. It didn't work. I got one from the scrap yard.. It worked. Go genuine! less headaces

[@MikeMDs]

You said it !

[@precool]

Solid man. How about a super knock combined with a cylinder misfire? I changed the trouble (3) coil but it’s still not strong but less choppy. Spark plug? I’m driving a 2007 Mini Cooper S. Thanks man.

[@happylife2419]

MY COUNTRYMAN IS IDLING HIGH OUT IF NOWHERE BUT MY DOOR GOT SLMED HARD AND THE DOOR LOCKER EOD IS OUT OF DOOR CAUSING THE LIGHTS TO KERP O AND OFF WEARING BATTERY. NOW THE IDLING STARTED. FROM WHST YOU SAID BECAUSE OF THE ALTERNAYOR I HAVE BEE JUMPING THE CAR FOR OVER 1 month.

[@windsoradams1700]

I had exactly the same issues with my mini, last month had the walnut blast, new coils, spark plugs and more. Just took it in Monday for the same as this video and they replaced the solenoid. I just picked it up drove it home and limp mode light just went on 😢.

[@icantintyou]

excellent info. thank you

[@michaelfraser5723]

Great hand signs

[@Bigbopperairguns]

If you dont put The highest grade premium gas. You will have nothing but issues after. I realized that the car actually has been running. Great, until I just noticed that it's not shifting, right? Because there's possibly a coolant leak the engine get too hot The metal will expand causing it not to go into gear? Based off this video I've seen right off. The bat, it looks like a coil issue.

[@taipan8021]

These cars can beat the Best, with High Tec tools. It's always 1 Car that will Try to drive you Crazy. Just got a Mini come in to Service ,And From Problem to Problem.Coils Bad. Converter Clogged. And Valves 2 and 3 possibly damaged. Life

[@24seven72]

Mine started and all like that not quite as bad in drive but it just literally blew up and caught fire yesterday

[@WillMahler]

Great tip! Will definitely keep an eye out for that as our MINIs, age.

[@armirhoti3813]

Thanks for the vidio again mate you are a star,, just have exactly the same issue going mad replacing everything and no difference at all, just watched your vidio and i replace that selenoid and i need to mentioned i did check the old one and it clicked but something it wasn’t right inside anyway i put new one after that car driving like brand new! Thanks a lot

[@MikeMDs]

Glad it helped

[@paulenriquez1]

Could this also be the problem on a 2016 clubman?

[@ladywizard4299]

Good day @Mike MDs I have a 2009 mini cooper r56/n12 I have been getting code 002B68 Mass air flow plausibility. 002b15 Differential pressure, intake manifold plausibility I have changed the VVt, The intake manifold map sensor and the Pcv==vc Membrane, spark plugs, and coils. still no change. I even double checked my timing as I also changed my Valve seals. Any suggestions

[@MikeMDs]

Hi, It sounds like a bad throttle body to me. Check out my other video on the top 9 reasons your mini runs rough.

[@KenyonPayne]

My friend has a 2010 cooper s turbo with a weird issue. Engine runs fine for the most part but throws a bank 1 rich at idle code. Checked fuel trims and when the engine is idling after start it has a ton of negative fuel trim value. Seems like the engine sorts itself out after driving for a while, but still idles rich. Supposed fix is new valve cover, that did not fix the problem. What other things could cause this?

[@davec5237]

Interesting thanks for posting.

[@flycatchful]

A code is one thing but understanding what led up to code being displayed is another. I own both a Mercedes 2002 SLK 320 and a 2013 Mini Cooper S hatchback. The Mercedes has thrown only one code for an inoperative taillight assembly. This is a common fault for this car and I traced it down to the left assembly. I reviewed all the fixes on UTUBE and never got the problem fixed. The fix was to replaced the entire assembly with a unit manufactured prior to the year 1999. It appears Mercedes used a subcontractor to manufacture this part and they screwed up in their manufacturing process. Mike, did his trouble shooting and used the codes to steer him in the right direction. Being a parts chaser is both time consuming and a waste of money.

[@MikeMDs]

Interesting. Thanks for your thoughts.

[@ChinaFrank1]

Hi to all, hi Mike Not sure this is the right place to ask this question but i am desperate. Inaturally Since a month there is the following problem: After starting, sometimes no throttle response at all and rough running engine in idle. The Orange engine light is steady on. Restart engine and all is OK. This problem repeats occasionally. But sometimes red engine light comes steady on plus the service light. Also no throttle response and rough idle. Restarting a couple of times helps. If there is a throttle response, yellow engine light comes back on but car drives OK. Error Code ISTA 2BE4 with 3 hits: 1) DME internal fault. 2) Pressure Sensor before throttle valve. 3) Low fuel pressure operating range: Pressure too high Can somebody guide me? There is no Mini repair (or any other qualified repair) on this island..... (the island calls Panglao).

[@danielakinart9238]

Thanks, video was very helpful.

[@lorenjennings1127]

Since you specialize in Mini's, I have a couple of questions. I am researching the Mini before I purchsase one. These cars tend to run hot. Can a cooler thermstat be installed? I live in Arizona. Oil consumption and oil funes seem to be another problem. A better synthetic oil with a hight oxidation temperature would be better than a regular oil . Is that something that is encouraged? How are the automatic transmissions in these cars? Thanks for your input....

[@hectorg.7282]

These cars are a nightmare, all of them. Stay away and live a happier life.

[@kevinheiman5615]

YES

[@Mrmuzgemni]

Exactly, you can't solve any issues 100%. It will always be solved 50% and for one issue need to replace many parts. These are just crap Autos

[@andypeers9903]

@@Mrmuzgemni why you here then? My first mini had 200 thousand miles on it. I put 20 on it without spending a dime. Now my clubman s with 145 on it which I got $3 grand below price runs like a pocket rocket. DO YOUR OWN MECHANICING IF YOU WANT TO OWN A MINI SPORTS CAR. That's the only way people.

[@rue2973]

My 2012 minicooper S has been an absolute blast to own. I've only ever done very basic maintenance aside from replacing the valve cover gasket, even that is pretty basic

[@vaiosdiminikos4628]

these cars are the best you can drive much fun

[@kingroguetv2039]

2010 cooper replace ignition coils still has the erratic idling I’m a try replacing the the valve u show in this video

[@vktechtv4244]

Mine does this (not as bad though) only on cold and only in the first 5-6 minutes of running. Once warm, idle is as smooth as can be. Also no warning light. When cold, choke at 1100-1200 rpm, no idle issue, then it drops after 30secs-1min to 600 rpm, and idles with dips it recovers from, down to maybe 350-400rpm. The only thing that bothers me about it, is if its damaging the chain and cassette. It's an N18 Cooper S with just 30,000 miles and regular oil checks, like every 4000-6000 miles or annually.

[@keeping-up-with-pg]

My mini dies while driving. Do you think this is the same issue.makes same noise before shutting off.

[@caitlinwilkinson7467]

Did I find the cause of problem mine does the same

[@keeping-up-with-pg]

@@caitlinwilkinson7467 yes real simple fix. Junked it for cash 😁😂😂

[@ericmothman7107]

MR MD ? I got a very peculiar odor coming out of the exhaust pipe with possibly bluish white smoke. I’m running synthetic oil it’s a brand new oil change and it starts smoking after it’s been idling for a while not un cold start ups but when idling my first idea is that it’s a valve seal guides that are bad and it does that because of the way the heads are manufactured, but is it something else other than that that I can check before I go into Val seal guides? 2008R 56 non-turbo mini Cooper. 135,000 miles.

[@MikeMDs]

Hi, If you let the car idle for a few minutes at operating temperature. Then hit the gas petal hard to rev it up. If you see smoke then it goes away . it is worn out valve guide seals for sure.

[@sange6305]

I have a 2002 supercharged S R53 Mini Cooper, after I changed the intercooler it ran lean and it was hunting idle. It had a lot of the issues you found with yours as well. The exhaust was incredibly hot, so much so that it was bright red and looked like it was going to melt. I was surprised it didn’t! Do you have any idea what the issue would be with mine? I’m going to change the pulley just waiting on tools to arrive In mail

[@MikeMDs]

If the exhaust is glowing red then it is because there is an air leak causing the cat to glow. Like fanning a fire. Check the gasket seals for the intercooler. It can get pinched and caused an unmeetered air leak causing this issue. I've seen it before. Thank you for subscribing : )

[@kdwalker1656]

Why wasn't the car run for the viewers after the fix to bear witness to the comparison from before? I was hoping for that.

[@MikeMDs]

You make a good point. It ran normal obviously. But what is normal? right? I'll keep that in mind for future videos. Thanks

[@rexlao199110]

Hi Mike, my mini is r56s, i have erratic idle problem(any time), Another problem is stalled problem when start on cool down status (if hold throttle around 5 seconds that will not stalled), no engine error code. Any suggestions? Also solenoid valve problem? Thanks

[@Sulimankhayyat]

I took out mine it was clean and I tested it. It was working fine.I doubt this is my issue. I have rough idle code "unmetered air at intake manifold" I took out the manifold took it apart nothing is wrong or lose or leaking.

[@luisquilesrivera6874]

I'm having headaches wit this r55 mini cooper I change the gas pedal OEM and the throttle body OEM. But I'm still getting the same code. E/D incorrectly and E voltage circuit low. I also send the mini to do a remap for the throttle and didn't work. I use multimeter and snap on scan tool and I can't get it fix. I'm a tech from Quiles Auto Repair. But is the first time that I can't find the problem I also send the car to the BMW local and their can't find the problem. I re ordered another throttle to see if it was defective but the other wierd thing is. When I press the brake pedal the limp mode appear only by pressing the brake pedal

[@MikeMDs]

Wow thats a good one. Sounds like an engine control unit issue. But that's easy for me to say when it's not my but on the line. Let me know if you figure it our.

[@franciscocastro7647]

Thanks you!

[@MikeMDs]

You're welcome!

[@user-uv6oq8mz5c]

Good job. I wish I could have you do the job for me😓😢😭

[@bogusphone8000]

How? 2011 Countryman S Replaced the front in 5 minutes. T-27 to remove bolt. Swapped valves. Tighten bolt. Done Moved to rear. Removed air tube elbow. Loosed intake filter/ airbox and moved it over a few inches. Have tried and tried to get bolt out with T-27, no luck.

[@MikeMDs]

It's a tight spot and has to be done by feel. But maybe you can get a mirror in there to see what is going on. Maybe someone replaced it with a different bolt.

[@bogusphone8000]

@@MikeMDs Alright. Was finally able to get it out. Swapped the solenoids. Bolt fell to who knows where. Now trying to find a matching replacement. Not sure they exist.

[@RevolwerDj]

Hello mate, thanks for the video. I changed this valve today, because I have the same issue with the N14 engine, but after the new Solenoid Valve, this issue is not solved in my Mini Cooper S 07. What can I do next?

[@MikeMDs]

I have another video on top 9 reasons your mini is running rough. See if anything pertains to your issue. Best of luck!

[@dolcecompas2178]

Hola ! Hacía la falla en frío y caliente ? Si desconectabas algún sensor de árbol de elevas no mejoraba ? Saludos

[@COBHC8890]

09 Mini Cooper Base. The car spit/sputtered on my way home. Check engine light came on. Rough ible cranking up. Put on a new MAF sensor, still didn't fix it. Drove it down the road, and 3-5 miles in, started sputtered again. Threw code "2B4F, Mass Sensor Signal. Any thoughts? It has new fuel filter, plugs, coils, air filter, oil/oil filter. Checked the seal around gas cap. I got told it could be a vacuum leak around the valve cover gasket. (Little oil around it when I checked)

[@MikeMDs]

Hi, I have another video of the top reasons your mini runs rough. From the sound of it, it could be a bad throttle body. Refer to the video. I think it will help.

[@user-lg8gd6cg9c]

Can you help me out pal iv got a 2007 mini iv changed plugs and coils and still got code coming up cylinder 4 miss fire what else could it be pal

[@antislipcouk]

I've got this issue - had new spark plugs, coil pack, fuel injectors and then I tried this - bought an OEM Mini solenoid and it hasn't fixed it. Still rough idle and stalls eventually when static.

[@ian-sc3fu]

Mike. Same problem I’ve got. I’ve replaced both solenoids both camshaft positional sensors a new thermostat oil change and filter still the same. The timing is spot on no broken guides any ideas? I have a 2007 Cooper with a N12 non turbo. The code it throws up is P0014?

[@MikeMDs]

More than likely it is a bad Throttle Body. They set mass air meter fault codes when they go bad. Its common .

[@ian-sc3fu]

Mike MDs Cheers Mike. I shall give that a try 👍

[@macbrush]

I had the same issue and we discovered it was the dipstick not secured in place hence no crankcase pressure.