SOLVED! MINI COOPER RANDOM STALLS AND CRANK NO STARTS. SAVE HUNDREDS AND FIX FOR $5.

I was have a extremely infuriating problem with my R56 Mini cooper where the car would randomly shutoff while driving then crank no start for 20 mins before starting again. After digging for days on forums I finally found the problem and decided to make a comprehensive video to aid those that may have the same issue.
Tools Required:
Soldering Iron
Solder
10MM Socket
Trim tool
T-50 TORX
Tin snips/ Dykes
A beer
Relay part number if you need to replace instead of resoldering:
NEC PHILIPPINES EP2F-B3G1S

[@VetOnVettes]

If you find value in my videos and want to support a small channel feel free to buy me a coffee! (or not..) www.buymeacoffee.com/markalafrer

[@garyebken6056]

Dude, your a genius. I have a 2009 R56 with 251000 miles and had the same problem crop up. So glad I found your video. You saved the car from the scrap heap. And saved me a ton of money. Just amazing. THANK YOU!

[@Sek101]

Thanks for doing this video! All of the comments with others having the same issue, then resolving it after watching this gave me hope that my stalled-then-no-start situation related to this. So I followed your guidance, took out the fuse box, de-soldered *most* of the pins with a solder sucker (snipping the remaining 6 I couldn't fully de-solder) and sure enough that one solder joint looked just like yours. Added a bit of flux and re-flowed while adding a tad more solder. I wasn't sure if the relay was OK still so took a chance on it. Re-installed in the Mini and as soon as I reconnected the battery I heard the fuel pump prime. Good sign! It started right up. Not super familiar with auto mechanic stuff, so this was a huge win. Can't imagine what a dealer or other mechanic would've charged to resolve this!

[@msr04]

First, thank you for do this valuable video and thank you for the explanation that is narrated in it in my case I am the owner of an R56 S n18, the first diagnosis at the workshop after the engine that sounded like a potato, was to replace the high pressure fuel pump, (1.4K€) not seeing it clearly on my own, I ended up here and the problem was solved in less than 4 hours and at the same time I changed the fuel pump and the high pressure pump (€40 amazon, €600 ebay) The Car is running better than ever and I am happy to saved myself a repair that would have left the car stopped for months in a workshop due to bad diagnoses and spending thousands of euros, obviously the solder on the fuse was damaged and thoroughly re-soldering the relay was more than enough thanks for the video again, and to those who have this problem in the future, without fear and with a little patience it can be achieved without problem greetings from barcelona r4ulfpv

[@Rezellen]

I’m five seconds in and I 100% concur with you OK, I’m 28 seconds in and I’m absolutely in love with you. You are so correct love that car. It’s like a work in progress all the time I am now an expert mechanic in mini Coopers and I can read wire and diagrams. I didn’t even know how to do this two months ago.

[@essbee7978]

IT WORKS for Works. I knew I had the right video when you talked about both hating and loving the car. I have a 2010 JCW and it would randomly stall, then start after a few minutes. Random as in not every day or several times per day regardless of speed, weather or terrain. No check engine light, no clear repair path to follow. I was thinking along the lines of electrical issue and thankfully I found your video and it made perfect sense as I've encountered bad solder joints on other vehicles. After removing the fuse panel I tried to unsolder the pins that join the boards together but abandoned that ideas as the boards are soldered on both sides and the pin solder joints are covered with a waterproof coating. So I clipped them as you did. I found that pin 8 of the EP2F-B3G1 fuel pump relay - the switch contact that turns off/on power to the pump looked exactly like your video. A small crack in the solder around the pin with some bubbled solder. I took the relay out and checked its performance and reinstalled it. I resoldered the relay to the board and the board to board pins with silver solder which has a higher heat and vibration tolerance. I also went over a couple of suspect solder joints on the boards. Two months later and many thousands of miles later, no stalling - FIXED! I got lucky, I tried your cure first before replacing fuel pumps and throttle bodies and the like. Many thanks.

[@paultidwell652]

Ran across this video this week, although I wasn’t experiencing the intermittent starts and stalls, I had no codes. It appeared that the fuel pump wasn’t priming so I began by trouble shooting electrical and things seem to point to the JBE. I do a lot of soldering so I felt comfortable pulling apart the box. Re-soldered the pins, put everything back together following your instructions and 45 minutes later I hit the start button and she turned right over. Can’t thank you enough for sharing this fix. I didn’t spend anything but my time which was well worth it. Thanks again!

[@billpeugh951]

2011 R57 MIni Cooper S with 97,000 miles exhibited all the symptoms until it finally died and wouldn't start. While waiting the two weeks for a service appt, I searched for information and found your video. Figuring I had nothing to lose, I tackled the job. Sure enough, there was the crack - no magnifier needed to see it.. Repaired, reassembled and now it runs perfectly. Thank you so much for your detailed diagnostic and repair video.

[@VetOnVettes]

Hell yeah. I'm really glad I made that video. It has helped about a hundred people. Glad it worked out. For peace of mind, mine is still going strong 3 years later.

[@drmmrby452]

Thank you very much for this video. Crazy how I went through exactly what you went through. Car would randomly die and I couldn't figure it out. I replaced the fuel filter and put a new fuel pump and still wouldn't start. Now doing research and came across this video. SURE ENOUGH I took apart the junction box and that relay had a broken solder weld. Crazy. Thank you again! 13 mini JCW.

[@VetOnVettes]

Awesome! Glad to help.

[@derekcunningham8857]

We have had this random engine cutting out in our MY11 Cooper S for some time now & it got to the point where we weren't driving the car after it stopped in the middle of a major intersection. The engine always restarted after a few minutes & then drove home like nothing was wrong & I have been searching for this one for a while. Like you, I also replaced the fuel filter & was trying not to just throw parts at it until it was fixed as it gets way too expensive. So happy I found your video today as there was a dry solder joint at the low volume fuel pump relay pin exactly as you showed. It really is a love-hate relationship with a Mini. So good to drive & so annoying when it breaks. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@KamakOzzie1]

Thanks a lot. I was have a random stalling out issue on my '09 R55 Clubman. I found your video while searching for fixes. My problem turned out to look exactly like your bad solder joint shown at 8:30. It has been running great for two months now.

[@MotorSpotPt]

Well it worked for me... After a new HPFP was installed the car died again so I found your vídeo... Got the Fuse Box out and there it was the relay connection was broken and toasted... Replaced the welding and after 2500km the car is working like a charm no more problems with the stalling! Thanks!

[@richarddimarco443]

I’m an airline mechanic. After seeing this… I’ll buy another fuse box and install that. Too high an echelon of maintenance for me. Thank you for showing us the point of failure.

[@darylmartinez3055]

Hope to never have to do that! But good to know it can be done. Glad you took the plunge into it and sorry you had to! Electronic engineer for 45+ years and always hated repairs. Especially with sandwiched boards! Thanks!!

[@patrikjankai4583]

Thank you soooooooooooo much. I was about to remove the fuel pump. Then I saw your video and it was exactly the right diagnosis. It took less than 2 hours and the mini is running well again. Thank you very much.

[@VetOnVettes]

Awesome. I am really glad I ended up making this video. It has helped sooo many people at their wits end. It's definitely a frustrating flaw that MINI should address.

[@lanceuppercut2483]

Spot on with the fix. That lousy relay had one dry terminal. I was afraid to do all of the cutting but it was not bad at all. Thank a million

[@jarekkrol1]

Hi there and great, great thanks for the video. I own R56 2009 Mini Cooper and had this issue for years. Mine was stalling after first start in the morning once the engine was cold. This happened mostly during cold season, very rarely during the summer. No dealer could help as there were no codes. I removed the board as per your video (no easy it was though) but was not brave enough to split the sandwich. I took magnifying glass and examined pins of the low pressure fuel pump relay. Guess what - a middle pin in a first row had no solder at all! I need to look for some electronic workshop now with precise soldering expert to fix it. Btw. This issue should be a recall. Hundreds of users if no thousands report it and the BMW seats quiet. Anyone who experienced the Mini stalling at the middle of a intersection or in a heavy traffic knows that this is a life threatening issue. BMW - shame on you!

[@VetOnVettes]

Glad to help & I agree. I can't imagine how many people have been in accidents & stranded from this. I'm sure there are thousands of mini's in scrap yards as well due to this little relay issue.

[@darrenellis8910]

So often I find and fix faults with various things but then wish I had taken the time to video the procedure as I went through the stages. This is often not bothered with at the time as you go through so many ideas on how to fix the issues but some don’t remedy the issue so you tend to just get on with it. My point is, love how well you have managed to still compile a great tutorial on how to fix this issue without the original step by step video. Well done and great outcome 👏

[@dhtayloranalysis]

I just bought a 2007 Cooper S Convertible-R52-and the headlights do not work, but the high beams do. I found a vix that involves the exact same thing described here to desolder the relay as they soldering is shoddy throughout all of the boards on these things. This video mysteriously showed up this morning and I figured I would watch it to see what other issues I will be having in the future. Seems consistent. Thanks for this.

[@ashishm8850]

My Mini died in a similar manner today as I was pulling out of the kids school 😰. Imagine the mayhem that would have ensued had the car not rolled off safely across the road to the right. Gave me a big scare. Will keep a watch for the next few days.

[@chonorof]

Well after fighting this issue for about 6 months and calling my mini all sorts of bad names. I replaced the Hi-Pressure fuel pump, the low-pressure fuel pump and both relays on the JBE board. I also has some defective coil issues (after market - supposed to be high end units, I guess not). I also had an alternator fail during this time! I finally saw your you tube and gave it a try! I tested the theory before I tried the board... I bypassed the connector on the low pressure pump and inserted 12V from the rear power (powers off with the ignition) socket and it ran flawlessly for over a week. oh and the solder joint on mine made yours look good. 😀

[@glennkelly542]

This absolutely worked on my wifes R59, after getting towed for a HPFP failure according to the mecahnic. Replaced HPFP only to discover still no fuel. Found this video and had the exact same problem on the board. Repaired and now running again. Thank you so much.

[@VetOnVettes]

Hell yeah! 👍🤙

[@Flat4_Matt]

Just fixed this very issue after finding your video... A cracked solder joint, exactly the same as yours. Managed to get the whole thing done in an evening (was a bit harder to access being RHD!). Not a big job as you say, managed to get it out, apart, fixed and back in, all within a few hours. Fix wise, only did it at the weekend, but so far so good 👍 Thanks for taking the time to make the video, you are an absolute hero my man!

[@VetOnVettes]

Outstanding. So glad I made this video. It's helped a lot of mini owners save time & money! It's been over 2 years since I've done this and my R56 still going strong 💪

[@Flat4_Matt]

@@VetOnVettes Just don't spill that coffee in the footwell! 👍

[@MrNeilAlan]

Your video was terrific. I fixed my 2014 Mini Cooper S Convertible. I bought a JBE module from the junkyard to practice on. I would recommend. Get the junction box open can cause some board damage. Thank you for the video.

[@bobturner6255]

Hey Thanks. Glad you are immersed in Mini fun. Bad fun cars. I have a lot of Mini customers in the shop frustrating way to make a living.

[@martinclark1411]

Thank you so much for this, only did this repair yesterday (still undergoing testing on the road) but definitely had a crack on the solder at the relay part of the board. Will update when more testing done but all symptoms pointer to this anyway, cheers

[@VetOnVettes]

Outstanding. So glad I made this video out of anger 😂. It's solved at least 50 people's problems. Please leave an update 👍🤙

[@dk-fn1dq]

Amazing! My R56 started stalling with no CEL's this summer. Mine was frustrating as it was only driven for short trips and therefore might go hundreds of miles in between episodes. But they were always the same. Engine just lost power and stalled when it had just been running great. I pulled the JBE out last night and sure enough one solder joint was broken and the trace was starting to get dark from the heat. Thanks to you I was able to complete the repair in under an hour. The nearest dealer for me is 300 miles so this really was a miracle. In hindsight I think I would have changed the repair a little. Once the pins are cut the sections would be easy to heat up and pull out. I think I would have just replaced them with some solid core wire. They moved around on me alot and it was hard to tell when I had good contact between them. Time will tell if this fixes my issue but I was thrilled to see that solder joint after cutting the board apart. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to post this. One other point. Pull the large black relay before trying to remove the plastic casing.

[@VetOnVettes]

Nice man! I'm glad this video has helped a lot of people and saved you guys a ton of money. As far as the repair I agree. I threw it back together with mixed feeling on whether or not it would work. 🤷🏼‍♂️. It's been almost a year. Still good to go!

[@juliemcclung4954]

I think ever used Mini owner, or mini owner in general can agree with how you feel in the beginning of the video. Got my 09 a year ago and the first year was rough. We are going through another rough patch right now, but there is light at the end of the tunnel. 🤣

[@evantaur]

as long as it's not check engine light...

[@mindazwerin8056]

I literally just bought a new (used) Mini and this happened. I thought I had a lemon and now I have hope! Thank you!

[@VetOnVettes]

Awesome. Please keep me posted.

[@travisogden1661]

Hello again. So the Mini ran great for three months, then died on my son again. Decided I better go through with looking at that relay after all. Sure enough, the pin on the relay looked like crap. Touched up the solder, then everything went to hell. Had a terrible time with putting those cut pins back together, and ended up messing up one of the solder traces in the process. Did find another used assembly on eBay and got it installed. So far, so good. Hope it doesn't have the same issue, but next time I will try to cut the pins more in the middle, and be more careful. It definitely isn't easy, but I believe it would have taken care of the random dying problem. Thanks for your help.

[@NP-kc5qd]

Thank you for sharing, I have a r57 with the same issue. I was about to start changing all kinds of parts, I’ll give this a go. Also, as a dealer technician, I know this would cost a client well over $1,500 +! You’re the man!!!! I’ll let you know how it went. Thanks again:)

[@NP-kc5qd]

Update, took my JBE apart, found the relay pin burnt. Thank you so much! Ordering a used JBE

[@VetOnVettes]

Nice man. Welcome. 🤘👍

[@mikeh.8155]

@@NP-kc5qd where did you order????

[@NP-kc5qd]

@@mikeh.8155 eBay Used unit, make sure you match the number

[@DieselBakedBean]

Thank you !!. About to take my ute and trailer to town to collect my wife's R56 Cooper S. I diagnose fuel pressure or crank angle sensor by how it behaves in the carpark. Based on internet research, I'm very confident this will be it. Great video. Thanks

[@EliasAnto]

You’re an absolute legend! Had the same issue. Followed your instructions and now all fixed and working. Thank you 🙏

[@VetOnVettes]

Oh hell yeah! I love seeing these comments. I'm really glad I made that video. 🤙👍

[@freddy1jumper58]

If you were ever interested in Learning Mechanical or Electrical Engineering, Buying a Mini Cooper Might just be for You!

[@bryangardner4370]

If a mini doesn't suit you get a Sprinter..same education.

[@mikecullins2100]

I am so happy to see this video. I have been having the same issue and haven't been able to track it down. Replaced fuel pump and filter already. Will check this weekend.

[@norainet]

Man you saved my car. Three days ago the engine stalled 3 times, random speeds,.... so I did remove the box, cut the 30 pins, and same thing, relay pin was not ok.... Now two days on and it runs ok :) Thanks

[@VetOnVettes]

Awesome 😎

[@norainet]

Two days later and the car stalled again !!!!!! 😤

[@mta3562]

@@norainet Did you find or fix the problem. Just wonder if you have to get back in JBE again

[@DavidJackson-zg5my]

Glad I ran across this video shipmate, been troubleshooting this problem for a day and a half and now this makes perfect sense.

[@VetOnVettes]

Hell yeah 👍🤙. Keep me posted

[@koshthekernel]

Thank you so much for such a brilliant solution! That's exactly what it was. Will keep you posted once is all back together.🤗

[@VetOnVettes]

Hell yeah!

[@criscolon7639]

I need to try this tomorrow wish me luck thank you for all the information i also got a new fuel pump and high presure fuel pump and filter 😢 so much money spent.

[@craigharley2386]

Yes!!! My fuse box gets hot and it starts “clicking” when turn the air conditioner, barely any clicking. So after a couple days I found a couple sites to purchase a reconditioned fuse box that’s compatible. So I will replace it, and look at the board, repair with a soldering iron and keep as a backup.

[@Galenki]

Started to have the same issue this month on a 2010 R57 with 250k km , dying silently (not the usual stall you can feel) at stops/roundabouts when it's rather hot outside, and at least after 30min driving on a cold start. Works really well otherwise. Started with a timing chain rattle at 180k km, and that's where i'm at now with -4000$ in my wallet after all i've done on it. Can't wait to fix this and have a head gasket to do in a couple 10k's, or what else. Still gonna check around for other things that could cause this, but i guess this is it sadly. Thanks a lot for the video.

[@bernardleatmon121]

I love this.... my wife's car did the same exact thing.... I will no doubt follow your technique... Thx Bro

[@bad89coupe]

Thank you for sharing what you found! So many videos are just left with searching for problems!

[@tm5346]

I don’t believe I’m watching again your brave& u giggling dont be scared! Lol I really hope this doesn’t happen!

[@xolanigama8381]

Great video. fortifies my research on the issue as i has similar sypmtoms. most forums revealed it was the relay as per your video. i will be working on mine next week hopefully.

[@VetOnVettes]

Nice man. Let me know if you have any questions!

[@kawa1755]

Oddly mine did not have enough solder. That was my issue

[@flycatchful]

Had a similar problem on a Mercedes 2002 SLK 320 left taillight assembly. Many solutions listed on UTube but none fixed the problem permanently. Save yourself time and money by replacing the fuse assembly. I did the same thing with the taillight. You will find out this fuse assembly is used on other minis' that did not have an issue like the individual in this video has. it is all about the production run of the vendor of this assembly. In the case of my SLK 320 I replaced the original taillight assembly with one made in 2001. That was three years ago and it is still working. I got my taillight off of EBay and you can do the same with the fuse assembly. Just get the part number and match it to a used one. I paid $53 USD when an OEM was $259 dollars.

[@yeahright5894]

Hi vetonvettes757, Thanks for this video! Our R56 2013 cooper s had the same problems - cutting out when hot then restarting after 10 minutes or so gradually getting more frequent over a period of time. I followed your instructions and found the issue you described - cracked/dry soldered joint on the relay terminal. I resolded the relay terminal to the pcb board but also followed the pcb track with a high temperature insulated link wire as the track looked as if it had been getting hot from the bad joint, anyways were now six months on and the car is still trouble free!! Thanks again 👍👍

[@VetOnVettes]

Oh hell yeah! I'm so happy I made this video out of rage 🤣. It has helped a lot of Mini owners!

[@juanatilano798]

This fixed it on my 2010 r56 thank you so much sir for your video

[@VetOnVettes]

You bet!

[@anthonybelyea1964]

Yes it's a love-hate relationship sometimes minis really suck especially the brittle plastic parts after they get 10 years old but there are a lot of fun cheers from Atlantic Canada👍😎🇨🇦

[@arkangelnorthman]

Hey man! Just found your video! I am going to check this out on my mothers car. Its a MINT 2004. She has been through hell with this car. I did all the "dealer" recommended fixes...new fuel pump and filter...new gas cap...new computer...new head valves and rockers....i found a ring etched in the cylinder wall on cylinder 2...so used lower end installed....after 6 months off the road....IT STILL WOULD JUST DIE!!!! took to mini dealer an hour away....they diagnosed new pugs and new coil(it had a new Mopar coil since it's a damn dodge neon engine!) they said mini coils are better...lol!! STILL DIES!!! if I try your fix and it works.....I OWE YOU ONE!! FINGERS CROSSED!!

[@G00B4LIFE]

did it work for you?

[@arkangelnorthman]

@@G00B4LIFE no....totally different on her year.

[@sharonkendrick9898]

Did you find out what the issue was? I also have a 2004 that has randomly died a few times.

[@arkangelnorthman]

@@sharonkendrick9898 YES!! i found a factory defect in one cylinder.....a groove all the way around( not up and down).....after mini dealerships and private mechanics ALL misdiagnosed it over and over!! over a year and thousands of dollars.....luckily i saw it because the piston was down and the head was off.. so sad... mini did NOTHING for my mother!!

[@paulbone5348]

Had a similar issue on the same fuse panel. Lost power to the cabin blower motor and turned out to be an over heated spade terminal. The cause of the over heat was a low resistance circuit within the blower fan itself because over time the carbon dust from the motor brushes had completely coated the insulating material holding the brushes allowing a low resistance path to the motor metalwork. Cleaned the insulator up, cleaned the spade terminal on the fuse board up and blower now works fine again.

[@troybone6849]

Man I think you just fixed my dad's mini lol he's been at wit's end with this thing for over a year

[@VetOnVettes]

Awesome 👍🤙😎

[@jamesvorhis9830]

Good video. So i have a 2010 that was running great. One day it died out like you have said but it will not start back up. It just cranks and cranks. I want to fix the JBE but its weird because it wont start at all like yours would. I put power to the LPFP and it runs. So pump is good. Weird thing is when i put a power probe to the fuel pump and turn it on it still wont start.

[@JavierGarcia-gl9vr]

Thank you so much my guy getting my coop back on the road

[@Rezellen]

I’m five seconds in and I 100% concur with you

[@L.os123]

I have no code and it dies on me and it also has no strength while pushing pedal. I am still trying to find what is the real deal, due that they are charging me for a transmission issues. So I am doing my research better. I am thankful for this videos, hoping to find it.

[@jasondominguez8434]

Do a fuel pressure test, Compression test & spark test to find the problem

[@javiereaton6083]

I like the introduction spot on ....

[@billjackson4786]

Question: I'm having a similar problem on my R55. Start it, runs great, then cuts off randomly. I put my scanner on it and read the values for the high and low pressure fuel lines. When this happens the LP fuel pressure is constant at 75PSI. The HP pressures are 750PSI in the pump and ~100 on the rail. I hesitate to blame the LP fuel pump or the relay since the low pressure remains rock solid at 75PSI. So I had the HPFP rebuilt by a reputable place that has lots of on-line positive reviews on their web site and the mini forums. thoughts?

[@djole3415]

Hello I have a 2007 Mini Cooper R56 (diesel, 80 kW, 109 hp). Recently, I started experiencing a problem where the car jerks multiple times when accelerating in 1st or 2nd gear, especially when reaching around 2000 RPM. After this, it runs normally for a while but eventually starts jerking again and eventually stalls completely while driving. The car starts again without issues, but the problem repeats, especially when shifting to lower gears. In some cases, the engine stalls while driving in 3rd gear, and I can't brake properly until I restart the engine. The car works fine at idle, but as soon as I try to drive or accelerate, it stalls or jerks. I also noticed the issue appeared after the start-stop system error message Is it possible that this issue can be resolved using this method? I don't have any error codes displayed except for the start-stop system warning. Thanks 🙌

[@festus-pl3ty]

Hello, I have a mini cooper s R52, 2006. It stalls, cranks but no start. If I replace a new DME, it starts fine. But once I switch off engine. It won't start again. The vehicle has shut down 3. DME. What can I do?

[@hagnik]

Thanks for the video. 2006 cooper S, sounds like the same problem. Already replaced the fuel pump and filter. Any idea if I should be able to hear a click or something from the RELAY when it's working properly? I bought a new one. After going through all that trouble I will just replace it.

[@adanramos3925]

Brother I truly need your help i have my fuse box apart and pins clipped but I don't see any points that need solder or I don't think so man I'm so frustrated with this car

[@willardhunt2415]

Dude your video was awesome on the low pressure fuel pump relay... the presentation was superb if you was a woman I could give you a 10, thank you for the help.. Another mini hater I mean lover...

[@brandonwagner8602]

Did you have to reset the battery IBS or anything after doing this? I attempted this the other day on a 2013 Mini Cooper S and when I started the car back up afterwards, the tach and fuel gauges are not working and the car will not shift out of park.

[@freddy1jumper58]

My 2011 ran great for first 2 weeks... LOL. I can fix most anything on now.. Hang in there!

[@koshthekernel]

So far the repair is holding up. No longers stalls. But we are gonna drive it at least 150 miles before we put the covers back on. However we have another issue that you may be able to shed some light. I dont know how to contact you other than you tube so I'll post it here. The rear lights are not coming on when turning the headlights at night. They only come on when applying the breaks. Signal lights OK. Fog lights OK. Two of the parking lights are also not comning on and one license plate light is also not coming on. I tested the lights bulbs and sockets. They are all fine. After doing some research it looks like the FRM foot module is the issue. As the baterry dies once and we had to jump it once which may have cause the issue. The closest cooper dealership is 6 hrs away and no one close will touch it. Mini suggested taking it to a BMW dealer 45 mins away. They will harge 200 just to troubleshoot and God knows how much for programming it. There are places that will program it for you on the web assuming the unit is not damaged. Is sending the module out a good idea or should I spend some needed cash at the dealership? Comments welcome!!😉

[@lisan.5453]

Did you say you replaced the fuel pump? Can't hear it well in that part of the video. Having issues with my 2011 R56 S. Turning off after engine low power light. Car shop says its the JBE Module.

[@VetOnVettes]

No, I did not replace the fuel pump (sorry for the confusion). It very well may be something as simple as the fuel pump relay. I did this fix almost a year ago she still good to go. Its crazy, if took it to a shop they would have spent 2 weeks diagnosing it and 3k to fix it. Literally fixed it for free in an hour. 🤦‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️

[@stephensomersify]

THANK YOU - gonna apply to my daughter's Mini - old git, UK

[@chaddelgado3478]

Thanks for making this video! It solved my problem! BUT now one my rear windows does not roll down.. I have an R57. Any idea how to resolve? It must be something with the JBE right? Thank you!

[@kevingonzales7783]

Hello do you have a part number for the entire junction box not just the relay?

[@stgmatuning]

When it would stall, was your gas pedal working? Or did it cut off the gas pedal?

[@georgebarnes4561]

I have a question when your car would stall. Did the rpms drop very low and then struggle and then shut off? Because this is what I’m experiencing I wonder if this could fix my mini finally!!!

[@princep9051]

Hi buddy's I'm in deep trouble. One mini cooper starting trouble but cranking ok. Fault code is High pressure fuel plausibility pressure too low. What is the complaints ?. Any realy or high pressure pumb. High pressure pumb is very expensive. We don't have spare pumb. Please give me some suggestion

[@goclunker]

Hey man, I don't know where to ask, but you seem to be an r56 expert. My fan doesn't come on. I replaced the fan with a new one. New coolant temp sensor. Seems to be working and reading the right temps. Hard starting stopped. Issue is when the temp sensor is plugged in, the fans do not come on at all. With the sensor unplugged the fan comes on full blast and stays on. So, the circuit works, the fan works and the sensor works. Could it be the AUX waterpump? For now, unplugging the temp sensor means it won't overheat, but it will run in limp, poorly. Thoughts?

[@nxa.sketch]

Does this affect newer models too?? I have a 2015 paceman and it shut down a couple of days ago... no warning lights or anything. Could it be the same issue?

[@jklstewart]

Is there a way to confirm it's the low pressure fuel pump that is causing the problem, before pulling the card and soldering?

[@travisogden1661]

Having the same problem with my son's 09 S-model. I am going to do your procedure, but am a little confused about what you did when you cut the pins and seperated the boards. Do they get resoldered together where you cut them when putting it back together, or what? Maybe it will be clear when I pull it out, but I wanted to get a better idea beforehand. Thanks for the vid, it gives me a starting point to fix this problem child.

[@VetOnVettes]

Yes, re-solder where you cut them.

[@travisogden1661]

@@VetOnVettes Ordered the relay (from China) so it will be a month or so before that comes in. Debated whether we wanted to just check the soldering, but for now decided to wait and hopefully only have to go through it once. Thanks a lot for your help.

[@flymo3965]

Great video @VetOnVettes, I am just wondering if you still have the car and the problem is still resolved? My 2005 Cooper is doing similar so I will be looking at this this weekend.

[@VetOnVettes]

Yes sir. 3.5 years later and going strong since the fix 💪🤙

[@Timber81]

Foot Well Module Recall on 2010 to 2013. I just got the letter. My 2010 stalls. I did everything Utube said to do, including cut open the junction box!

[@rydevip3678]

I am having same problem, I replaced the fuse panel with a used one, still no luck, and it won’t let me connect to ews module for some reaso.

[@bernardoromero8177]

Dam crazy had the same symptoms and didt want to challenge my self to opening this box and putting it back together so I went to a pic a part and found mini with the same box and swaped it and boom it worked thanks man this video saved me money fersure

[@VetOnVettes]

Oh hell yeah. Happy to help

[@DarrylHarris-u8k]

VetOnVettes757, have you had this problem? I am working on a neighbor's 2009 Mini Cooper. It sat and the battery died otherwise it started normally before. I installed a new battery. The car will not start. The start button will not depress. Is there any reason other than a bad start button that will not let the button depress? My tools are being shipped so I have a few screwdrivers and a pair of pliers.

[@robertoloyola6623]

Thanks for the video, I hope you may help me with my problem, I have a f56 1.5turbo 2017, I'm having intermittent problems with my low pressure fuel pump, sometimes it delivers, mostly it doesn't. Do you think I could have the same problem? Thanks in advance

[@SharonMartinez]

I have a 2009 MINI Cooper convertible with about 59K miles and a mobile mechanic changed the fuel filter and now the MINI will not start. Initially, I was having no trouble. I just was trying to be a good MINI owner and get the fuel filter changed since I do not believe that it had been done before. Any ideas what happened and how this can be fixed? I believe that the fuel pump is fine. There were never any symptoms of it failing. I think that something happened with the filter change.

[@JoseMendez-wo1cb]

Hi I have an R52 2005 Mini Cooper with a similar problem. Should I look into doing this board repair?

[@freddy1jumper58]

LOL. the opening quote is the best! so true. Im going to copy and share it on Facebook.. LOL.

[@derekkchung]

That relay is for low pressure or hight pressure fuel pump? I wonder why no code. Usually it should give some low pressure codes.

[@freddy1jumper58]

P10EE Low fuel rail pressure sensor. And the I have the same issues as described.. Hmm?

[@je300zx]

Was pretty sure my hpfp was fried took my board out out to see not one but 2 solder joints for the FP relay were just gone. Wish i could send a pic.

[@LuisAMartinezcarrion-ef4hx]

Where can I buy the fuel pump relays

[@koshthekernel]

Hi. We have a similar problem. We took it to a mechanic and they replaced both gas pumps. The main one and the one in the tank. Still getting the same stalls and the Cooper will die. Only after several minutes it will start again. Engine light wil come on. The techs at the repair shop couldnt duplicate it. But every time we took it for a spin to go to Walmart, it will do it. Whats creepy about it was it will stall and die exactly in the same street. It did it 4 times. Same symptoms. We have driven ot 130 on and off and hasnt done it yet, but Im afraid if we go to Walmart it will do it again. The code would read P0087 Fuel Rail / System Pressure too low. Do you think we have the same issue? A reply would be appreciated....😉

[@VetOnVettes]

You definitely have all of the hallmarks of a bad solder joint. Mine would stall at the same locations as well, once the board would heat up the solder joint would expand & boom Car would shut down. Given you have replaced both fuel pumps with the same symptoms I would say it's very likely. If you have a 2007-2011 it's extremely common.

[@freddy1jumper58]

This is my next venture. My code says low fuel sensor pressure like yours,, DID you erase this error after? Yes my car is having same stalls now and wont start at all now.. I think the solder is toast completly now. Let me know. thanks

[@freddy1jumper58]

My 2011 is acting like your vid and I also have the low pressure sensor error. Hope this is fixed as well??? @@VetOnVettes

[@koshthekernel]

​@@freddy1jumper58 I have not have a chance to clear the code. We were waiting to reach 130 miles before we can say it worked. We have to take the copper to BMW to have a new FRM module, timing belt, battery and other repairs done. Is still in the shop. We dont have a Mini dealer here. The closest one is 6 hrs away. Once we get it back unless the dealer does it I'll let you know. Are you gonna try VetOnVettes757 solution? You may want to order the relay before you do. Our board did not show any signs of burns so we assumed the relay was ok.

[@aviatorian5348]

When your car died did it throw a half power engine light because mine is driving fine when it wants then randomly will die then starts right back up

[@ega_srb9156]

I have 2003 cooper 1.4d, I have random stall problems, sometimes 5 times in only few miles, could this also be the issue on mine?

[@hyscar1262]

Hey man i really need your help. After changing fuel filter and new oem pump the problem was the same with yours...but mine was a little black on the solder point not just cracked. I took it apart and i resoldered it and then i did all the connections between the relay board and the other piece. But once i put it back in the car i get all kind of service notifications on the board like steering wheel, abs, power windows etc the car cranks but does not start....its like no power going to the pump. Do you think i should change the relay of the pump as well ?

[@VetOnVettes]

I would highly advice to replace the relay. They are super cheap. You probably have a bad relay in conjunction with bad solder points. Also make sure you are careful when soldering the board back together. Take your time. If anything is shorted you will get all sorts of weird errors etc.

[@hyscar1262]

So i did replace the relay and the car runs like never before !!!!! No more stalling while driving !! I could never imagine this might be the problem. Thanks for the video you helped a fellow DYI driver 👍

[@mohageli358]

Please please tell me if this apply to r50 have the Sam issue and yesterday no start I know it’s not the pump nor relay. I took fuse box a part And pressure relay is not the Sam as years. So I stopped. Please advice and buy three Coffee

[@VetOnVettes]

I do not believe this would fix the R50.. however, the R50 is known to have bad grounds from the battery to the chassis (near the passenger motor mount) I would start there. 👍👍

[@sharonkendrick9898]

my r50 is having a similar problem. what ended up being the issue and how did you fix?

[@IFixCrap2094]

I have an R60 and I’ve been having issues with the front wipers not working at all. Everything has been checked wiring, relays, connectors, column switch and everything seems fine but still the junction fuse box is not sending ground to the wipers relays. Could this be a similar issue? Or related to the JBE at all?

[@MalcolmRowley]

2013 R60, the sound JUST went. Number 5 wire.... what do i do with it? Is it the connector, if so which end?

[@bobbys6364]

Is it possible to desolder the pins between the boards rather than cut them?

[@ProjectMini]

Great video! I feel like if i ever have this issue your video will get me through it 👍

[@VetOnVettes]

Thanks man!

[@disliked0]

2013 starts and runs for about 10 minutes then dies. Thinking this maybe the issue? I hope.

[@zoss01]

Thank you for the information. Is "ep2f b3g1s" engine N18 compatible?