Milwaukee M12 12v Vehicle Electrical Hack

[@Hettdizzle]

Bro ty so much. I'm a mechanic sleeping in my car right now and thus just made my life so much easier!

[@MyFortressConstruction]

I hope you get out of your car and into a real bed soon, but I'm glad this was helpful!

[@AmeriFanPicker]

Bro. This is a fking AMAZING hack!!!!!!! Thank you soooooo much. Been trying to figure this schizzle out for some time but only recently got some Milwaukee M12 tools. This worked out so perfectly to power up an odometer in the junkyard to see the mileage. Found out which pins to use….cut the connector out of the harness, stopped the appropriate wires (I didn’t have the key so had to do it this way) and voila!!!!!!

[@MyFortressConstruction]

I thought it was nifty so I'm glad it helped you!

[@808pathfinder]

great idea man, was about to buy the adapter for that battery setup until i saw your video ,I hit the like button to say thanks

[@MyFortressConstruction]

Thanks, and happy electronic jerry-rigging!

[@neversurrender6742]

Money saved again. Smart video.....Great Vid!!!

[@clone1137]

Oh my god I’m mad I didn’t think of this. Much credit to you this is genius. Bench testing parts is one thing but I have a ton of these M12 hi capacity batteries, I could use this to run my UHF 2 way radio in a power outage.

[@MyFortressConstruction]

Glad it's helpful to you and yeah there have been many times I've faced palmed after watching a KZbinr. Lol

[@rrperry001]

Great tip with the fuses!

[@br5339]

Love the fuse idea! One caution on M12 batteries. The low voltage cut off, preventing you from discharging the battery too much, is built into the tool on the M12 line, so you can easily discharge the battery too much and end up with the M12 chargers refusing to charge them back up. If anyone knows of a low voltage disconnect that would solve this, please share! :)

[@MyFortressConstruction]

Ah yeah, I typically am only briefly testing 12v systems, but it's true, you could discharge too far. You can jump them back up with another battery so that the charger will recognize them again, but it's still not good to drop them that low. An LVD that cuts off voltage at 10.8 volts would be ideal for these batteries.

[@michaelmanusos7764]

Thank you for sharing this brother, good to know!

[@michaelmanusos7764]

Thanks for sharing this brother! Great idea with the fuses too!

[@MattTester]

I was looking to see if anyone had used 12V from a car to run M12 tools and found this instead. A very convenient conincidence, well spotted.

[@andrewfidel2220]

Thanks for the tip, worked great for testing a 12V sensor before installing!

[@MyFortressConstruction]

Glad it helped.

[@weeklyone]

That pretty thoughtful on the fuses part!

[@KollynJ]

Wow so this acts as a power source adapter that allows you to use all cells and definitely will not create a cell imbalance?

[@MyFortressConstruction]

Good point, don't do this to power something indefinitely. They're tiny batteries. Use it to test with as I demonstrate. Though if you do drain your battery too far so that the charger won't accept it, just plug another m12 battery's positive and negative to the "bad" battery and jump it. Then stick it on the charger and voila.

[@KollynJ]

@@MyFortressConstruction I read my voltages and one cell read zero. So I’m thinking my leads touched and shorted the board

[@joshreinhofer7116]

I’m currently popping fuses testing a canister purge valve from my truck, is it because my 1.5 ah battery is too small, or there’s a short or some sort in the solenoid? Any advice?

[@MyFortressConstruction]

So you really need to know the wattage or amperage of the solenoid. I'm no expert but a 1.5 ah battery theoretically can sustain an 18 watt load for an hour (1.5amps x 12v = 18 watts). However, how much of a load can it handle for a short amount of time? That would require a deeper search into Milwaukee's information on their batteries. The point of the fuse is to protect the wire and battery and I just don't know what discharge rate it can handle. There are probably forums online that go into it. I assume it's probably close to 10x the amp rating or possibly more. It also depends if the battery has over-amperage/overheat protection built in. I think M18 batteries do, but not sure about M12. If you are willing to burn up your battery you could try larger fuses, but further research is needed to know exactly what fuse would be needed. So, the short answer is that the solenoid is likely pulling more power than the fuse can support. A 30 amp fuse would allow the equivalent of 360 watts (30 amps x 12v = 360 watts) so a 1.5 ah battery (18 watts) could handle that kind of load, theoretically, for 3 minutes. 360 watts/18 watts= 20 which means that 18 watts is 1/20 of an hour worth of energy, or 3 minutes, though probably for a lot less since it won't have a full 18 watts worth of power inside of it to use.

[@jalixvarietytv7849]

Thank you! Good idea👍

[@JAB8]

Cheers ! I mite start using a fuse as Ive just been using spades straight in but only for led lights so no biggie!

[@alex-pope]

Brilliant. Thank you

[@sergebedard5746]

can you boost a car battery like that ???

[@dabmerz8823]

So a power probe?

[@MyFortressConstruction]

Yeah, basically.

[@troyaikman1234]

Very good

[@martincardenas7878]

What number is the purple one fuse

[@MyFortressConstruction]

3 amp, because I was using the smallest fuses I had to protect the battery.

[@808pathfinder]

just match the amp on your battery ,

[@yolo_burrito]

Nægative