Minimalist Darkroom pt 1

Often I get people telling me they would like to get into developing film and/or making prints, but don't have the space to set up a darkroom at home.
I'm hear to show you how little you need to actually do this.
This is part one so it covers a minimal setup for developing film only. We'll move into scanning and printing in future parts.
Links to stuff in this episode:
Rodinal Equivalent: goo.gl/NyMB9
Formulary TF-4: goo.gl/TK5PF

[@DigitalAndInnovation]

This short series basically allowed me to get my minor in photography! I am revisiting this now a few years later because I want to get back into it. I used this specific two step process you presented for 75% of my black and white film photography- the other 25% would be other developer/ fix combos- and the rare times I use XP2.

[@rjhelms84]

Great video, Ted. I'm just about to get starting with processing my own film, so the timing of this is perfect. Since I don't have the luxury of any sort of dedicated darkroom space, it's great to get your tips and tricks on how to make it work as minimally as possible. Eagerly awaiting the second part of this one.

[@shortscale]

It's really nice to see these videos being uploaded regularly. Keep up the good work Ted. Looking forward to the printing podcast!

[@llchan]

I’m going back to film after a 20 year hiatus and this has been super helpful. I already have the reels and tanks and I am glad I didn’t threw them away. I only plan to shoot and develop film, scan them into my computer, and print digitally. I didn’t know about TF4 before and this is something that I would like to try. It’d be great if I could do without stop bath and hypo cleaning agent. Many many thanks.

[@Rakasava]

Love to hear somebody on KZbin who knows their stuff.

[@bthemedia]

Gotta love minimalism! Great advice, on riding the purple casts from tmax and avoiding stop bath at the same time. =) Also useful note about the metal reels, I'm just sticking with the Patterson plastic for now - it works!

[@txaggiecop90]

Another great show Ted....thanks for turning me on to TF-4, going to order some this weekend!

[@1717jbs]

Ted, just developed my first roll of B&W film using TF4(great) it was really easy. Thanks for your videos explaining the process.

[@JuanitaRodriguezOnzaga]

Can't wait for the one about making prints. I'm moving to a little place soon and I was losing the hope I could keep on developing and doing my own prints until I saw this :) thanks a lot, you're an awesome teacher!

[@theartofphotography]

I've got one - they're okay… really clumsy and for me its easier just to do 4x5 in the dark. I'll do it at night with the bathroom door closed. My biggest issue is the time they take to drain and fill - you have to compensate. But if it works fo you - go for it!

[@norbert982]

Great video as always! I think many people are interested in film photography and showing them that they can do it with a minimalist equipment is a great idea. My 'minimalist' setup was a bottle of Rodinal, a bottle of fixer and a used tank that I bought for basically nothing and these three things were enough to start out. Today I shoot film a lot and I have tried many different chemicals and processes and I enjoyed most of them however Rodinal remains to be my favorite for b&w negs.

[@petizo8]

Cant wait to see how you develop large format. Do you have a video how you use large format camera?

[@marktwain3531]

Loving that giant, concrete pillar in your kitchen.

[@funcoupons2492]

Just wanna say this was super informative. Thank you very much -- you're really good at explaining what you're passionate about. :)

[@shamanism171]

TF-4 is terrific. Photographer Formulary is terrific.

[@OskarFilms]

Great video, Ted. What are your thoughts on daylight developing tanks?

[@richardlitson1894]

Ted, I'm not sure minimalist is a word I'd associate with your videos. That said, I'm starting to realise that they contain a lot of interesting information, and I keep coming back to them.

[@theartofphotography]

I use film clips and hang it in the shower. Should dry in about 45min to an hour. Get a weighted film clip on the bottom though so it won't curl up against the tile. I hang them on the shower door rod.

[@LilKimRobot]

Thank you! You explain things so well.

[@xuanprada]

Really loved this episode.

[@tmonjr8490]

was overwhelmed with the process. looking better now. on to part two!

[@odetteli03]

Great show. Am about to develop my first roll (35mm) using a similar kit and your older podcast as a guide. Would greatly appreciate advice on safe chemical disposal options. Thanks!

[@einfussganger]

Great video! Thank you for making and posting. You've got great presentation skills! OK, so I gave this a try (first time developing film). Used D76 and TF-4 only (no stop), just a water rinse in between. Developing was perfect, but my loading of the TMAX-400 onto the steel reels was flawed. I had trouble with one roll and it got gnarled on the metal tracks with a couple of frames touching each other. The film seemed so much thinner than the expired color film I was using for practice. But the second roll was fine. I plan to scan the negs, so my developing darkroom easily fits into a box and my working space fit perfectly atop the washing machine (Gralab 300 timer, two graduates, two brown 1 gal jugs, a 2 reel tank, thermometer. Thanks again!

[@schaspere]

Thanks, excellent tips on the slow development method, i need to try that 👍🏻

[@xuanprada]

Best channel out there, keep going, you are awesome!

[@hendini88]

awesome video Ted i've just started developing my own B/W medium and 35mm format film. I don't use a darkroom just a dark bag, but gonna eventually create one, when i move. keep up the videos

[@TheEnzedone]

Thanks for all your vids. Wanting to have a go at all this. Keep it up.

[@FidelityDenim1]

ORWO DP-31 reacts really well to stand developing. I did a 1:200 dilution and let it stand for 120 min. the results were pretty awesome.

[@theRiver_joan]

i love the little flicker of glee that flashes on your face when you mention that you can make it confusing haha.

[@jefferylegere]

love the video... way off topic, but is that a cement column in your kitchen?

[@seren_elesi]

Wonderful, been building up my supplies to get developing; I started photography in a darkroom and would love to revisit it. A great spot to get cheap supplies is people liquidating their old darkrooms on Craigslist. Cheers.

[@Ongakka]

Thank you for this, I have been wanting to try developing my own film.

[@CumulusSkies]

You're right, it is daunting. Especially for someone like me who's never ever developed my own film. : / I watched your developing vids a long time ago, when they first came out. I think it's time to re-watch those. But now I'm going to try & find your Part 2 in this series. Do you have any websites, etc to check out for us newbies? (BTW, I saw sweet little Finley walk by - what a cutie!) - Cheers!

[@JasonRJones]

Hey Ted, I have had issues with T Max processed at the lab when the fixer was reused or used on several other rolls in a dip and dunk system. A bromide drag resulted and created uneven tonality blotches on the film. Have you ran into this when processing T Max and reusing your fixer or developer?

[@lancestan3398]

Saw the 12 string guitar and I liked your information so I subcribed.

[@utiradioskuggan]

can you experiment with agitating at different intervals when diluting the rodinal with a lot of water? wait shorter, longer etc for similarly shot films and get different results?

[@odetteli03]

Thanks Ted. Would be interested in hearing about enviro friendly disposal methods some time. About to set up minimalist darkroom for first time. Cheers.

[@turdboman]

Hi Ted love you stuff, you said rodial gives a lot of grain could you tell me a developer that would give hardly any grain , I typically shoot HP5+ and ultrafine xtreme 400 and 100 !! thanks a long time fan !!

[@vampireofeug6945]

love rodinal or it's equivalent it works well it's one shot stand is awesome

[@ufo645]

Excellent video - full of quality and information! Excluding myself, of course, people who comment on your videos are very, very helpful as well. I can see how both the stop bath and hypo-clearing agent are eliminated with the TF4 fixer but won't eliminating the photo-flow wetting agent leave negatives with spots?

[@jeffmarsh4518]

Fantastic! Many thanks

[@Joker-qy2fv]

Awesome video and cool strat

[@seanconley]

Have you tried the T5 yet? Would you recommend it over the TF-4?

[@deanban]

Any suggestion on developing Neopan-1600? I have a lot of neopan 1600 left in the fridge and I'm new to developing. I've tried Rodinal, but don't like it.

[@nickfanzo]

Right now I am scanning my own negatives but I want to turn my basement into a darkroom, issue 1 doesn’t have running water so I’d have to run to a bathroom to wash prints. 2 we have a sceptic system so for me to dispose chemicals I have to bottle them and drive to a facility that recycled chemicals... we can’t dump down drain in CT with well water and sceptic. Right now I have to run chemicals just for the negatives, with trays this can be a lot more effort. Thoughts?

[@LeaderOfKGB]

these are good for both color and black/white?

[@jordantbaker]

Thanks, yeah I stumbled across that info online just as this comment came through. Do you know anything about dev times?

[@Smaug1]

Aren't the Paterson reels adjustable width? IIRC, they are, and that Paterson tank is big enough for two 35 mm or one 120 roll.

[@jaw944]

Hey Ted i was wondering if you have any experience developing color negative film and it would be cool if you could do a video on it Thanks

[@csabapapp8481]

I just started developing this year. I'm using Adox Rodinal developer and it is absolutely reusable a couple of times. At least, my negatives are turning out just fine even after 5-6th time using the same dilution.

[@codyfunk6460]

I absolutely LOVE film. I'm thirteen, and with such little money and resources available to me I'm torn between film and digital. I would like to set up a darkroom, but with the rise in cost for film and development I find myself leaning towards digital. I am quite scared that film will be gone when I have the money to shoot it, but digital is more economically friendly at the moment. I honestly wish that film was more widespread, but digital has taken over. Film looks exactly how you want it to look, and you just can't do that with digital.

[@mintslice2214]

don't worry man film is going nowhere

[@eightdaysaweek3763]

I’m also thirteen and that’s how I feel!

[@Smaug1]

Film is slowly coming back, just like records. It's more popular now than it was 5 years ago. One of the keys to shooting film is that you need to think and compose more in your head. You can't just shoot a lot and sort it out later, like with digital. You CAN make digital just like you want, it just takes some fiddling.

[@Zabarotropitili]

5 years passed from the post and I Wonder if the film photography stills grabs his attention. I started my photography "carrier" at around 10 then when I getting to my 15 I switched to girls almost completely from photography ☺️. Then only after I had my own kids I returned to it. Now I'm thinking going with black and white film photography to develop the films myself.

[@ContrastWithSepiaPrince]

I purchased an Epson V500 for 155 bucks, brand new, on Amazon. I love it, especially since I can scan small and medium format negatives.

[@Laclaustra]

I migth try that fixer, I use almost exclusive Adox Adonal. And sometimes when in a pinch I stop with Vinager (5% destilled diluted to 3%). Great video!!

[@NeilBlenkiron]

Once again a fantastic video. Well done Ted! If you want to further reduce the size of your kit and have a 3 reel Paterson Tank check out a handy little gadget called the MOD 54 that enables you to process 4x5 film in normal light without needing the dipping tanks. Once loaded you just process like you would a 135 or 120 film. Available from the UK.

[@headsup360]

this is an awesome video, very useful! thank you for sharing! I would like to ask as well if i'd be able to use these chemicals for colour film?

[@Smaug1]

No, you can't. It's completely different, and more complex.

[@tebv4144]

When i started all i had was R09 one shot DEV, Ilford fix and the paterson tank. Instead of thermometer I used my finger when pouring up water and Let it sit for a few minutes. Actually I still do. No stopper just water and a drop of soap when i do final wash. You can get by really cheap.

[@wilkey02i4]

Thanks for this video. Personally, I'm moving into more film work lately, and developing my own B&W film really interests me. I do have one question, I would really like a solid, modern developer for films such as T-MAX, and Ilford films (maybe Delta Pro 400). I'm rather open to films because I am new to B&W photography. If you could possibly recommend a solid, easy to find and quality equivalent (mainly in its versatility or ease of use compared to Rodinal). I think I'll give TF4 a definite go, just to save the need for another chemical to store. Thanks again for a great channel!

[@Smaug1]

D-76 or HC-110.

[@shawnshing614]

Thank you for tutoring us this video. Be honest now a day a lot of people out there don't event know the basic of photography . I remember when I was in school major in photography I spent a lot of money in film , paper , chemical etc and etc ; haha :) . Of course I still love the old school way in photography and I hope that we still keep using photography in film such as all the commercial industry's back to that cause quality is awesome and the commercial industry only use those photographer that know how to use the old school photography. What I seen a lot of people out there don't know how to use all the basic feature in camera all they depend on auto feature and etc ,,,,,, This is just my opinion n hope the commercial industry's heart that . Otherwise photography will disappear in the next generation completely! . Sincerely Shawn

[@kd5mtl]

Interesting video, I love the TF-4 fixer. You should definitely give the PMK (Pyro) developer a try- also from Photogs Formulary. You'll never go back. Great tones, minimizes grain and makes reflective objects really shine in the photo. I've used HC110, D76 and all those others, but Pyro is the only one I'll use now

[@BravoDanny1]

How do you dry your film after youre done with the development. I also have very little space so just need a tip on have to manage that part. Thanks in advanced!

[@ryanpearce4754]

Can you go over how to set up a color darkroom

[@josephtimmins1974]

I used TD16 and TF-4 only (no stop) on roll of Kodak Double X and it produced beautiful, spot free negatives. Thank you for the video! I think I found my new fixer.

[@salpal5738]

If TD16 works nicely do you think D76 will work?

[@jderevere]

Thanks for this information !

[@Dave51262]

Would love to try TF-4 at $14 per liter but the shipping on that is $18, so it is $32 per liter bottle.

[@NordicLab]

I have a good set of optics for digital Canon EOS and I want to try the EOS film camera. But to develop the film at home do not understand how. Excuse me, tell me can I buy all chemicals on ebey? I can not find anything simple.

[@capretta444]

love your film vids, please keep em coming! B)

[@alylewis3435]

Thank you for this!!

[@Curiousme100]

Have you tried New 55 Film mono bath developer?

[@ThePavezzi]

I just love how you're using the metric system and SI measures. Word of advice for those who want to source the necessary things at low budget: if you're buying a used dev tank, do make sure it comes with all the necessary parts and is indeed intended for manual developing. I made the mistake of buying a JOBO tank with the "sprocket top" and no axis tube nor reel. I thought I was saving money because I got it really cheap but getting the additional parts was a nightmare and ended costing much.

[@antilogism]

I was just looking into Jobo! Thanks! In the US photography has been mostly metric for at least 60 years. Before WW2 it was grains and ounces but that shifted and by the 1960's no one used those old measures anymore. We still use inches for medium and large format films and papers but that's all I can think of.

[@salpal5738]

Nice cat and very informative!

[@jacobjasonbago]

Hi, I'm planning to make my own enlarger (makeshift) any tips, please?

[@timothypilgrim]

After a quick dip in dishwasher spotting agent and squeegee, I hang using a film clip at the top, hanging from the ceiling fan chain in my kitchen, with a simple clothes pin for weight at the very bottom. It works like a charm with no curling.

[@AnimalsOnMars]

So with tf4 there is no need for a clearing agent such as kodak photo flo?

[@SnakeBitesTattoo]

Doesn't the time you develop the film depend on the temperature of your developer?

[@theartofphotography]

You might try a closet… or just prepare to have to dust off your negatives. I would actually not recommend using a dryer. They get dirty too and then they are a nightmare. They just blow dust on your images. Dryers are nice if you have a commercial lab and can maintain them - not so much for a home.

[@Galshaer]

Thank you for your videos

[@lunawroblewski]

I know this is an old video, but if you wanna get super minimalist, get the Paterson multireel 3 with the ilford Mod54. That will let you do 3 rolls 35mm, 2 rolls 120 and 6 sheets of 4x5 all in the same tank. That's what I'm doing and it's really nice

[@shinyparts]

Do you know where in the UK I can get some TF-4 or indeed TF-5? I see that I can get it from the US but the shipping cost will be crippling!

[@MatMarrash]

I can vouch for TF-5, it's a fantastic fixer! Just as odorless as TF-4, mixes cleaner, and doesn't have that "milky" precipitate that forms when the stock settles. Also, alkaline fixers are superior for films developed with pyrocat as it doesn't remove image stain.

[@mr.l6982]

What about selenium toner for archival stability?

[@Submisfit138]

how much fixer should I use to dilute it in water ?

[@Acquavallo]

Very informative, thank you

[@petizo8]

Where do you disposed your chemicals after use ?

[@jordantbaker]

Help! I'm going to develop some 400-TX with the adox adonal at 1:25 dilution. Where might I find developing times?

[@ressikanflute]

Picked up an enlarger and complete darkroom (timers, safe light, easels, etc...) for $100. Now the issue is where to put it... Laundry room is dusty. Bathroom is a no-go. Might build out the garage but there would be heat/cold issues. I want to print 8x10 landscape for sale at shows.An aside... With an adapter I can use the enlarger lens for a poor man's macro. I'm leaning towards a high end scanner until I can figure out the Darkroom

[@petizo8]

I want to do a darkroom to print into paper ! I have no idea how to start to make it .

[@kauxkaux]

Any good alternative to that Rodinal equivalent? :-) I am not in the US and I cant get it. Preferably something in powder since it is easier for me to import it.

[@polyarthus4282]

Hello, I use Fomadon R09, it's the same formula. However I don't think rodinal exist in powder, I would be glad if someone proves me i'm wrong !

[@PeterYovich]

This is so wanting me to develop film again! For under $100 you can get all this material and a Holga 120. Seriously thinking about doing it!

[@Laclaustra]

Color you need a C41 kit, Freestyle photo is a great place, and for 4x5 you might need also a rotary system or temp controlled sink due temp control

[@MrBantas]

Here in Germany Agfa Rodinal is still available, but its called R09 now. If your out a stuff, maybe I can send you a bottle. I love your Podcast by the way! Thank you very much for this!!

[@elevensixty2434]

2:08 cat walks in 8 minutes cat plays with wardrobe 10:18 cat reappears with new look

[@theartofphotography]

Yep - you can.

[@doggyfresh123456]

This is only for B&W? I need help finding the right chemicals for colors.thanks

[@RossHudsonMambo]

I use water as a stop bath. Works just as well with any fixer imo. Cheaper too

[@neilmorrell2819]

I stick in a capful of white vinegar. You can also use a squeeze of Lemon Juice.

[@hanadirammu9525]

hey! would you run that for around a minute, just like a stopbath?

[@KATla4]

Me too.

[@KATla4]

Yes. Running water.

[@seren_elesi]

Check his links in the description for the only two chemicals you will need to develop black and white film. Stick with B&W until you get a bit of experience, it's a simple process almost entirely self contained in that small patterson tank.

[@gilsmith341]

How do you get Tech41 chemicals shipped to your home? I live in Beaufort SC and B&H will do in store p/u only so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[@analogbug16]

Have you tried Freestyle photo?

[@deemdoubleu]

Thanks, interesting talk

[@tinakelly7773]

I need color Spot prints. About very old pictures, I doing fixed eye glasses white spot prints. Do you have Color prints little bottles. And light black and black prints bottles.

[@polyarthus4282]

Hey hello, Just to add my grain of salt. Rodinal is good for high speed films, I used to push triX to EI1600 in rodinal 1+100 for 90 minutes at 20°C (with a starting time at 40 minutes at EI400). Agitation was continuous the first minute then only slight agitation every 30 minutes. Produced really good negatives. My rodinal was foma's one, the Fomadon R09 (same formula). I tried for fun to push it at EI12800.. I won't do it again, negs were bad. But it works ! For slow film and particularly when I want no grain I use Paterson FX39 instead. Less acutance but still a wide tonal range.

[@icare4u77]

I never roll my eyes at your quality photo vlog before however at 10:35 I did. Digital use plugin to emulate film looks and now film use a technique to get a digital look...