Misfire at idle Case Study: '03 Mazda Protege -Part1

[@joeshmoe8912]

Hello Ivan. I am a small construction business owner in Pittsburgh. I am drawn to the auto repair videos for one necessity and two it is so interesting. I looked at your website and read your amazing story. I really wish i new a mechanic around here that would go to the level you do to find problems. Thank you for sharing your experience with us. Best wishes to pine hollow diagnostics.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thanks for the kind words Joe! Really means a lot to me!

[@joeshmoe8912]

Youre welcome man. You deserve it. I always try to give my customers the best possible job so i respect when others do the same even if you are in a different field.

[@ouch1011]

Watching these videos is painful sometimes because I want to help guide you in the right direction! Lol. I spent almost the entire video telling my TV to check the coils/plugs. This is a textbook secondary ignition fault. My guess is the spark is arcing to the head/spark plug tube on one of the cylinders. High load/low RPM misfires (at low/hot idle with a lot of electrical loads on in gear with a small engine makes for pretty high load) is the best way to check because it puts a high demand on the ignition system. Rolling slowly into the throttle at low RPM (on an auto, its usually best to try to get it up to speed, maybe 40mph, where its in top gear with the TCC locked) will also usually cause a miss with a secondary ignition fault. If you get that intermittent miss under those conditions, its almost always secondary igntion. It can be hard to determine which cylinder sometimes, especially if the car doesn't have good misfire monitoring, but if you pull the coils/wires out one by one, connect a spark tester or extension lead then go over the wire/coil with a test light under the same conditions that it was misfiring, you'll usually find it arcing. I'll have to check part 2 to see if I'm right, but I'd be shocked if it is something else.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Ahh this was an old one haha. My take away was don't diag a driveability problem without DRIVING the car... You are spot on as Part 2 shows 😁

[@aricowan8731]

I have a 2003 Mazda p5 automatic I blew a piston out my old engine replaced it with a used engine shipped from Japan it’s cranks but won’t start. I put a new battery,spark plugs,fuel pump,harmonic part wit the teeth,& more in my car won’t start.i sent it to Mazda for a Diagnosis they said I need a new ecu. I’m looking for a fdze ecu at the moment what is ur thoughts?

[@jmart2894]

Hi. I've paid multiple mechanics to fix my current problem with my 03 Mazda Protege 5. The AT light flashes and the transmission guy said the transmission was fine. Another person thinks it's a computer in the transmission. Have you had that issue? No one knows how to fix this. When the AT light flashes I can't go forward because the car won't move.

[@kaycee9337]

I disconnect the air valve and it doesn't do anything. My car does not want to idle now acts like it's misfiring but plugs and new coils in you mass air flow is new I changed the gas filter still misfires doesn't want to idle

[@kaycee9337]

@@aricowan8731 car doesn't want to idle sounds like it's misfiring but it isn't I disconnect the idle control valve and nothing happens can you help

[@tecnaman9097]

Hi Ivan ...one out of left field for you to check...inspect the moulded inlet tube for cracking in the valleys. Misfire worsens on a road test when you hit the gas( from stationary) and the engine twists on the mounts and opens up any splits in the tube. The MAF can't measure the airflow accurately due to the downstream air leak so the ECM is going to under fuel as a result(may also account for high KV's when idling rough?). Also try disconnecting the MAF and removing it from the equation. I've never had experience with the Protégé so not sure what back up strategy is used. Just a thought bubble. Good luck and looking forward to the fix!.

[@CravinMorehead420]

Recently, a customer replaced the distributor (from the junk yard) on a Corolla, come to find out his timing belt was broke. I replaced belt, had the marks on point, went for test drive had rough idle was hard going past 20mph. Put old distributor back in and problem fixed. Like you said, time to focus on ignition and injection..

[@rfn944]

Had the same problem 2001 protege 2.0L. Did however get miss fire codes P0302 and P0303. You would think that it was the coil pack with those codes together. Problem turned out to be bad plug wire on cyl. 3. Arcing signs at the junction of the little boot on the bottom that can be removed and the rubber shaft of the wire. Not sure why it effected cyl. 2. Must have weakened the spark there as well since it a wasted spark system. Nice snap on scope. Spark amplitude and duration easily diagnosed.

[@huggybryn39]

EGR valve faulty, would make the Mass air flow sensor unstable, Disconnect the Mass air flow sensor putting it into fault code mode, ( running richer and stable) and then carry out your tests.

[@joelnavarro9339]

nice Ivan thanks for sharing your knowledge, on 27:35 there was a clue I got some training on secondary ignition which is hard the interpretation still for me , but when the spark line line goes high it is proving the coil i capable of produce high kv, the other part is the one make me think about spark plug or wire , on good wire or plug the spark line should start jumping in less than 3 kv but when you see there it goes to about 9 kvs that is most likely going to be out side the cylinder and will be electrical that is what I learn and I have seen it of course there is always some thing on this field out normal .

[@georgeheri895]

Ivan I noticed the check engine light blinking when you get after it till it catches up. Usually that indicates the computer shutting off an injector b/c it sees a misfire. I would look toward the ignition coil. or spark plug. Just like in days gone by we used to put the car in the highest gear possible to load the engine and accelerate hard, if you have a bad plug or wire it will show. Thanks for the vid, look forward to seeing the answer. g

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

+George Heri Very good logic! That is exactly why I had to take it on a test drive, even though the problem did show up at an idle...you're on the right track :)

[@roadkill5333]

Maybe Some high resistance plug or wire, leaking spark at load??? Had a Chevy S-10 blazer 2.8l that had a reman engine installed less than a year earlier. Put all new parts and such, on it at that time. Started blowing the ecm fuse randomly. Left me stuck twice, before I figured it out. Even had it towed home, once. Did a bunch of looking, and checking during th daylight, but could never find anything. Waited till dark, had the ex put it in gear, and hold the brakes, then start putting a load on it, til I saw what was happening. Spark jumped out of a plug wire, at the boot on the distributor cap. The spark jumped an inch and a half to a rubber vacuum line attached to the firewall above it. It ran 18 inches along that vacuum line, and jumped another 1 1/2 inches to the brake booster!! Created one heck of a light show under the hood, when it did it!! Never figured out what was up, I just put a new set of plugs and wires on it, and fixed the problem. The plug looked like all the others. And no visible hole in the wire, where it was jumping out. Didn't know how to test those things, back then. But the power sure was looking hard, for a path to ground, to jump over an inch out of the wire, travel 18 inches down a rubber vacuum line, and jump another inch to the brake booster!! Either the plug, or the wire had some HIGH RESISTANCE!!

[@8power0]

Good case study at this point all that is left is the injectors i did not remember if you had checked the fuel pressure . I would move on to injector balance testing all so amp scope injectors and look for any bad patterns . A vacuum gauge is a quick way to check engine mechanical in the real world where time is money best of luck .

[@1quickchevy2]

IHigh kvs suggest an open in the secondary ignition, maybe check the boot on the companion cylinder. can't wait for part 2. Thanks Ivan.

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

I would check coils, and spark plug wires. I had a similar problem on my 01 focus. the number 4 tower on the coil stopped working. it would buck, misfire etc. But you know what you're doing. can't wait till part 2.

[@wyattoneable]

Interesting so far...on to part two!

[@ericcorse]

Cool stuff I like the pressure transducer.

[@MrJgonzalez2]

This engine has 2 coils for 4 spark plugs with 2 spark plug wires, it is possible that one coil controlling 2 plugs is failing. A test I like to do in a case like this is spray carb clean to a vacuum port during the misfire to see if the misfire stays or not. Odd thing is the fuel trims are great.

[@johngonzales4631]

The clue seems to be the high ignition secondary voltage only at idle. Fuel trim values were normal at the start of the test but I am not sure it they remain normal as the problem got worse. I will suggest to use propane gas at idle and look if the secondary voltage drop to normal values to eliminate any lean mixture issues.

[@AutoFocus-se]

This was a interesting case. When i'm looking at the spark line at 26:46 . And there is a couple of things that can cause the high resistance. I was thinking a mixture problem first. But then recalled your earlier test, 19:40 the in cylinder pressure test, and the spark waveform, you used a spark tester. A healthy coil should easy jump the gap outside of the cylinder. But you got an similar high spike and spark line. indicating the spark can't jump the gap. Should be seen on the spark tester. So I suspect the coil is affecting cyl1 and 4. But still many variables, tests like a spark comparison on the other coil. and current test could be more tests to do. I'm looking forward to see is my theory holds in the next part, since i can be really off on my guess. :) Cheers.

[@paulfoo7397]

I've been having VERY inconsistent acceleration throughout the RPM. Mostly felt on lower RPM, it just hesitates so much especially when warmed up. Past 3000RPM it is just okay. It misfires A LOT upon a cold start too! The more it misfires upon a cold start on that day, the shittier the car would perform on that day. On a good day, it just pulls like crazy as if nothing ever happened but it would only last a while before it starts acting up again. Car stalls probably 1/5 times at a long stop light. NO codes. In where I live (Malaysia), it is hard to find a trustworthy workshop that has tools to diagnose faulty ignition coils, but I'm willing to bet that it is bad ignition coils. Fuel trims, MAF, IAT, O2 sensors all read fine. Going to change ignition coils and spark plugs tomorrow. Really hoping that it is just old and worn out coils.

[@avocatdelamusique9778]

My car is exactly the same. Guess what - very low compression in #4 cylinder. Valve adjustment didn't help, only solution is to take the cylinder head off and check it from there. It's either burnt valve or carbon buildup.

[@twcazhd]

It has to be a muffler bearing to miss that badly, also it sounded like it was low on blinker fluid, make sure you get the Halogen approved fluid infused with Pumpkin spice for this time of year and increased performance! :)

[@michaelovitch]

What did you use for your homemade pressure transducer ? A fuel rail gas direct injection pressure sensor ?

[@grizzlydan8]

I would clean the throttle body. Fixed a similar problem in my '01 Neon. Also check spark plug condition

Clean engine compartment. That's nice..

[@nigelkendall5892]

love watching this channel,oh and south main auto with eric o

[@jay7264]

that engine was doin the harlem shake

[@waynec6059]

I'd have gone a bit more basic at the start myself, vacuum leak checking with a can of brake clean; but I'm maintaining my amateur status to go to the Olympics. That idle spark spike is a clue, I'd probably run my scope on a rope along the ignition wires next myself, then physically look at the plugs. Then go from there. Afraid I can't afford the higher end diag toys as it's not my profession. ;) Just fixed a friend's no-start nissan issue recently that was similar though. Fix was replacing the spark plugs. As they were never changed the gap increased to the point the coil weakened suddenly to the point it wouldn't start anymore. The coil should also be replaced in it, but it's her old rusted beater.. It's a replace when totally dead deal, as it's integrated in the dizzy.

[@waynec6059]

Btw, thanks for the vid!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

+Wayne C At the end of the day it won't be the fancy tools that save the day...sometimes it's best to turn off the scope and go with your senses and intuition! Hah just did a coil on a Honda Accord beater the other day. I know Toyotas and Hondas you can change the coil separately under the dist cap...not sure about Nissans...

[@waynec6059]

+motoYam82 Ya, can with that old nissan as well. Just with it's rough life replacing the whole thing if it dies seems like the better use of time/money.

[@mrexecutive1]

Ivan, I would go to the Mass air flow next. I noticed on your verus it was 2 volts at idle, should be around 1. I Dont think its dirty tho, im thinking circuitry. with a no fault light indication.

[@huggybryn39]

+mrexecutive1 EGR fault would make the Mass air flow meter unstable

[@figibloom]

Hey nice video. I really liked your homemade cylinder pressure transducer, that thing really showed a great waveform. Looks like it showed intake, compression, power, and exhaust, that is pretty cool. Much more info than just a regular compression gauge. Do you have a video, showing how you made it, if so let me know I would like to see that. The ignition waveform to me looked like your firing line kv was high, but to me the spark duration was just not looking normal to me. I will admit I am not very good at analyzing ignition waveforms, but it looks like to me, after the firing line spike occurs the spark duration is starting way way to high around 8kv instead of a normal spark duration that should happen much closer to 2kv. Right after the firing line spike happens the wave form kinda starts a downward curve from around 8kv, instead of coming back down to around 2kv and then having a flatter looking spark duration. Looking at that waveform makes me think of bad plug wires (probably high resistance) or perhaps maybe bad plugs. It does not look like an open circuit waveform, but just a high resistance one to me. However I could be way off, as I said I am not the best at ignition waveforms, but that is my thoughts on it. Hey thanks for the good video, thumbs up from me. Have a good day.

[@Jonathan11225]

I'm pretty sure that the EGR valve get stuck open Very common on these,also the air duct between the air box an the TB tend crack really bad

[@TrimJazz]

+Jonathan Lessard sounds like possible egr, fuel trims and o2 not showing that.

[@chrisrudd3318]

Jotech 1991 they do, I'm having the exact same problem, and have had friends with it, especially after 145,000 it's a very good idea to clean it or change it.

[@cameronbartlett6593]

I have a 2002 pr5. same problem. i changed out the flux capacitor and ran 1.22 jiggawatts instead of the factory 1.21

[@maxwellness7693]

I found often a airleak after the maf sensor

[@harrisonmccullough1183]

coils and wires

[@philh9238]

lean misfire possibly. by looking at how high the kv waveforms looked. possible plugged exhaust. next test id do is when your test driving do the ole scanner danner quick n dirty w.o.t looking at o2 readings.

[@jcmobilediagnostics8611]

Hey Ivan, not sure if you’ll see this on such an old video but if you do, can you tell me what pressure transducer you used. My pressure transducer seems to operate a little slow and doesn’t have the smoothness of yours. Maybe the fact that its a cheap $20 amazon sensor. THANKS in advance!

[@xerxes456]

rubber boots on the ignition coil spark is outside cylinder.

[@ggstephens50]

Hard miss like this is ignition, coil with a 25kv spark tester In the plug boots, run a grounded screwdriver up and down the boots with the spark tester still in, look for arcing

[@wysetech2000]

This isn't even an educated guess but I remember diagnosing a similar problem on a dodge Neon and it had the incorrect spark plugs in it. They were too short to reach the combustion chamber. It ran ok at speed but crap at idle.

[@Pokemax544]

I think it's a cracked air intake hose. Thanks for your videos.

[@elektrojenny1]

Hello, great work!! Can you tell me, wich sensor you take for tis pressure homemade tool ? Thanks a lot

[@MaicSalazarDiagnostics]

Good video Iván, but you need to polish a little more the interpretation of secondary ignition waveforms, obviously you are sharp and got it fix. There are some good PDF files on google with very good samples. If you ever need info or so just let me know. Keith has all my info.

[@kauboi5700]

great vid!, ..Question,what led you initially to the idle control valve?

[@eriksved7880]

I think its some kind of fuel problem. Seems like a very hard problem, thanks for making this video!!

[@tracycolorado]

i would check fuel pump pressure too , possible fuel pump regulator

[@d-s-ll2378]

my mazda protege has idle shaking problem, when shift to D, R, engine shake crazy. shift to N shakes less. when press brake peddle, the first press can provide enough vacuum for slow down the car, but second press the brake peddle is very hard, lost the brake vacuum assistant force. Also, the fuel line can't hold the fuel pressure, it take 6 to 7 seconds to start up.

[@jerkimerjames3545]

I had exact on mine chg plugs and ignition modules wires pcv and clean EGR or replace

[@DJDevon3]

Please do a fuel pressure test next.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

+DJDevon3 What's the best place to hook up a fuel pressure gauge on one of these?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

+CB Tech That's one of my favorite tests. The fact that it ran fine under load at high rpms lead me away from fuel pressure/flow issues...

[@DJDevon3]

After thinking about it more I retract my suggestion. It would have a long crank time if it was low fuel pressure. It is definitely possible to have low fuel pressure under load at high rpms and speed. It happened to me but I had long crank time too. If you still want to do the test anyway then you'll need to connect an in-line schrader valve. I don't think the Protege has a built-in schrader valve. Some FS engines do have them though like Ford Probes, if it's there it will be on the fuel rail plain as day.

[@rusco321]

Hey DJ, I see you know your Mazdas. I did a headgasket on a 2001 protege mp3 because it had a miss. Now, the miss is gone but it's smoking bad from the tailpipe all the time, but really bad at startup. The smoke has a blue tinge to it, so it's definitely motor oil.I did not have the head checked or resurfaced. I did check it with a straight edge. I also did not replace the valve stem seals in the head. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

[@DJDevon3]

rusco321 If you would have posted this on my channel I would have answered it to the best of my ability (which isn't much). This is Ivan's channel and he just did a great job on a Protege. He's a much more qualified person to ask anyway. I'm not a mechanic.

[@pigeonsil240sx]

so if cam timing was off even a tooth would compression test catch it?

[@jameshall7850]

how did you make your pressure transducer

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

+james hall with my brain and my hands :P

[@jameshall7850]

motoYam82 lol

[@willemstreutgers1154]

Ivan, the engine is running bad at operatingtemp. !? So I suggest to use a freeze spray on the coils 1 by 1 If the engine is running better on a cooled one coil you know wich to replace. What I see on YT about USA cars and drivers, there is much neglect on maintainance. So the problem can be everywhere. Wish you succes.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

+Willem Streutgers I'll have to agree with you there. I think the general public thinks the only maintenance you have to do on newer cars is to change the oil...which is almost true :) I have seen PCMs and coils get fried just because of neglect to do a routine spark plug change. Just drive it till it breaks lol

[@willemstreutgers1154]

OK, back to the problem, How about vacuumleaks, dirty MAF sensor, sparkpluggap and wear. Hope you can solve this problem, Mazda's are known for their reliabilty though.

[@todayintheshopbanksy5904]

Hi Ivan, Quick question, Is your Verus as un-reliable as Eric's, or is he just lucky? lol

[@slickrick343]

hey Ivan man, when you were glancing over the OEM data and mentioned that baro looked normal, what sort of figures do you look for, I always thought good vacuum on idle would be 18-20inhg but then I've seen figures on good running engines around 30 like you have here and as low as 9 on some peugeot I get in.. am I confusing baro with vacuum? how do they differ? thanks, Rick

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Usually "Baro" = barometer = current atmospheric pressure. This is taken either by a dedicated sensor, or by the MAP with the engine off or WOT. At sea level Baro should be about 30inHg. As for engine manifold absolute pressure (MAP) it is, reported real-time by the MAP sensor and should read about 10inHg at idle. From this you can calculate manifold Vacuum: [VACUUM = BARO - MAP], so Vac = 30inHg - 10inHg = 20inHg at sea level. Hope that helps!

[@slickrick343]

right I see, I think I need to pay closer attention to exact pid name to make sure I'm not assuming things. cheers for the advice man, keep up the good content

[@torelli24]

Hello, I have a mazda protege family 2003, 1.6i 16valve automatic. I wanted to ask you a few things, first if you can extend the marches longer since the fourth one stretches little and changes very fast and second you could change my automatic box for a TipTronic type like the yellow mazda?

[@torelli24]

I mean the fourth gear of my automatic that is the old style with just the D, S, L. And at point D when I'm moving and move from the third gear to the fourth, this same before moving on to the fifth Lasts 3 seconds and nothing more. It is not long is very short. I do not know if you can understand me, because I'm translating everything with google.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

hmmm interesting. You can try using a scanner to see what the transmission is doing, but otherwise it may be an internal fault.

[@torelli24]

Ok I'll look at it and see what they tell me, as soon as I have some news I'll tell you how the result has been.

[@serkanfakl2850]

What should be the output voltage of the air flow meter at idle

[@clivep8305]

engine load was 23% at idle, throttle sticking open perhaps

[@karlbuttler]

Hi KV means it is running Lean, correct?.

[@armandonika]

how can the timing vary with temperature and cause the misfire?

[@armandonika]

Right now i laugh with this question 😂😂

[@rogueone9214]

I've got a 2016 scion ia and it putters at stop especially when the battery is disconnected and connected. This ia is a mazda 2 sedan. At 30 thousand miles. No codes it seems the battery has a lot to do with this issue. No misfire codes

[@Badgertronix]

As a random piece of information, these Mazda Familias (as they are known here) run like garbage and will not idle and stall if the engine oil level gets too low. Seems unlikely here with some of the data you have gathered but worth a check for anyone else with a poor running Mazda.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

+Badgertronix lol I think any engine won't like being too low on oil :) Yeah didn't check the oil level here...always a good thing to start with since you don't want to blow up someone's engine during the diag!!

[@DJDevon3]

+Badgertronix If the oil level is too low the oil light will come on the dash from the oil pressure switch.

[@paulcarroll750]

+motoYam82 Hey Ivan this may be a long shot but it looked like the pcv valve was not seated all the way in the grommet causing a vacuum leak maybe? Also it looks fairly new. Maybe check to see if its the correct one.

[@DJDevon3]

***** Agreed. That is not the normal fully seated position of the PCV valve. Needs to be pushed down about 1/2" into the grommet. That's a factory OEM PCV valve, you can see the factory labeling on it.

[@Badgertronix]

+DJDevon3 I don't mean that low. At the 'Min' mark on the dipstick I have seen these not start. Add some oil, good to go...

[@traptfannatic22]

I have a 2002 Mazda Protege Lx 5 speed. I had it sitting in my driveway the other day and it went from high idle to almost dying but then it went back to idle, and then it started to sputter. Then when I have it in 5th gear it will slow itself down to 40 mph and I have to downshift into 4th gear. How do I find out what's wrong and needs to be replaced?

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Is the Check Engine light on?

[@traptfannatic22]

Nope there's no check engine light.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Are you sure it's able to light up at all (like bulb check before you crank the engine)? I would scan the car for codes as a start.

[@traptfannatic22]

The only lights that come on are the seat belt lite and the ebrake lite

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Well get the computer scanned at ashop or auto parts store and go from there :)

[@chrisrudd3318]

egr valve?

[@dannybrown3032]

I'm gonna say when car is hot coil breaking down replace plugs wires and coils

[@blllbuilder64]

I agree

[@alexmessina3383]

For sure it's possible, but the diagnostic point is to prove/show it;-)

[@John-rz6sp]

EGR valve stuck open adding exhaust, at idle much more profound and bad performance but not as profound at the higher level when it's moving. What did the plug that you removed look like, did I miss it?

[@edwaggonersr.7446]

EGR purge valve.

[@Johnkb2059]

I think it's a stuck open EGR

[@realweston]

Jesus your a wizard!

[@mobcittty251]

blown head gasket?You sure the compression on the other 3 cylinders are good?Run a relative compression test

[@chadgardee1496]

Timming or bad valve

[@mischievousjr.9299]

Just clicked on the video, hoping I get some good insight. My Mazda just sounds very bad. Too loud, good thing is that it never stalls out. Just sounds bad.

[@PaulHigginbothamSr]

I have a friend with a minicooper and he got a good buy on it and now I know I would not get one.

[@jerrypeal653]

EGR or IAC valve

[@EvilJ069]

Gimme the logo grill and the driver fog light please

[@davemaster001]

I am dying to find out whats wrong with this car

[@blllbuilder64]

Mine i had to replace coil packs.

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

I must be old school but I never heard of any engine firing 15 degrees before TDC.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

When do old school engines fire?

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I always thought that most older engines fired about 5 to 7 degrees before TDC. Am I wrong???

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

5 to 10deg at idle is the rule of thumb; modern direct injected engines may be a bit more advanced :)

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I didn't know that. Thanks!

[@happy543210]

it only misfires at idle and no pcm codes... must be dirty iac path or throttle valve.

[@mygmail619]

Bad or sticky EGR valve.,,,,

[@KevDoesStuff]

I have an 03 Protege and it sputters and runs like crap especially right after I refuel!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

+Kevin Stuck-open purge solenoid bro!

[@KevDoesStuff]

Do you know where that would be located on this model?

[@KevDoesStuff]

+motoYam82 Is that the one under the car by the spare tire well or is that the one that is right by the intake that attaches to the intake tubing?

[@KevDoesStuff]

+motoYam82 Here is the link, the top one is located under the hood and the bottom one is located under the car by the spare tire well. i.imgur.com/UlrDsSG.png

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

should be under the hood attached to the intake manifold.

[@jason200792able]

I hear a major vacuum leak.

[@IBenZik]

That s not the "shake" that is the Japanese 2 step.

[@nebursalcido1867]

I’m so dizzy now

[@justme8410]

sunglasses if that's shit's too bright dude

[@abilioarruda4619]

Buy an AUTEL much better

[@utuber2940]

ignition coil?