Unhappy Hyundai ...MISFIRE & Low Power (Part 1)

This 2016 Hyundai Sonata has almost 200k miles on the clock and recently started running very poorly, misfiring on cylinder #4.
Owner self-diagnosed it and had another shop change the spark plug, coil, and GDI injector on cylinder 4. Obviously that DIDN'T FIX IT!
Let's confirm the customer complaint and actually repair the real problem :)
BONDING BRUSH (1/8" pilot):
aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail...
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Enjoy!
Ivan

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

A lot of people are asking about the special drill attachment tool that I used to clean the ground cable terminal and frame rail...here it is: BONDING BRUSH (1/8" pilot): aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=06741&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

Link didn’t work for me on mobile

[@neiledwards5100]

Why haven’t you got a good workbench it must be awkward working on the ground

[@uksomo]

@ i got it to work after removing &AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 from end.

@@uksomo yeah makes sense. Just hard to do on mobile

[@47ALTAIR47]

For this money you can buy a better camera with the two-way articulation such as Teslong TD450, always helps me out when I need to look under an open valve.

[@I_Do_Cars]

I have normal forearms, I have pumped up breaker bars. I love that you're FIXING the head, instead of just replacing it over cheap valves. Less waste, less cost, and fewer variables. As always, great work Ivan!

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Haha thanks Eric! Cracking head bolts loose beats going to the gym any day 😂 Never seen them snap and creak like on this Hyundai though... Felt like the socket split in half! What is the deal with all these burnt exhaust valves though I have no idea 😳

[@I_Do_Cars]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics a lot of TTY bolts feel like that. It always feels like the tool breaks but sometimes it’s the actual head bolt that does. You’re the diag master, but there’s a few variables you’ve already observed as a trend. All of the burned valve engines burned oil. Oil lowers octane and I would put money on the fact none of those engines saw any fuel other than regular octane. These engines are tuned on the ragged edge(maybe not your Camry) so the margin of error is slim. It could also be related to the way the vvt is controlled on that engine though I’d struggle to believe that’s a culprit with no correlated codes. I had a millenia S several years ago I bought with a burned valve. One of those run for the hills Miller cycle engines. After I fixed it I noticed the front bank primary O2 sensor got lazy as the engine reached operating temp. Eventually it would throw a slow response code and I did find out they started running 87 in it because it was so much cheaper. Those two extenuating circumstances led to a 20+ hour job and they sold the car to me cheap as the mazda dealer was only interested in replacing the long block.

[@hightttech]

To add to the theories: Oil burners are deposit factories. Those deposits clog up EGR systems, resulting in increased, highly destructive detonation and preignition (D&P). Those same deposits that clog EGR also increase D&P all by themselves, and can get pinched between a valve and seat causing valve to overheat. All this, combined with the cheapest gasoline, and the PCM may not have sufficient range to quash the intensifying and destructive knocking and pinging, when alerted by the knock sensor(s). The whole mess snowballs til customer cannot turn up radio any louder, and car won't pass smog due to engine damage 😂. One last anecdotal observation: I have noticed that experimenting with better oil can reduce oil consumption. I've had customers that were burning a quart every 800 miles with "bulk oil" from local lube joint improve to just a couple of quarts in 5000 miles with Valvoline full synthetic max life oil or equivalent. That's a lot cheaper than ripping into engine.

[@kc360awareness]

@@I_Do_Cars gotta. Love the inter-channel community and communication. Thank you bot( and wishing you continued growth and success!

[@JohnDoesGarage]

@@hightttech the type of oil you use does seem to make a big difference. The quick change oil joints around here use bulk recycled oil which will absolutely destroy an engine. I only run Mobil 1 full synthetic in gas engines and Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic in diesel engines. Oil is cheap compared to buying a new engine.

[@farmermiyagi1338]

"Using this brass punch to gently motivate this cover". Takes me back to being a kid, when Granny would say "Using this here switch to gently motivate this boy." Worked every time. XD

[@barry009]

The life of the engine is a circular reason issue. The timing chain will last for the life of the engine; what is the life of the engine? It’s until the timing chain breaks and destroys the value train! Thanks for another great video Ivan.

[@ricebike]

Lack of oil changes may not make it last... One needs to keep it in mind that the tensioner phasers and chain guides like clean oil

[@bsgarey]

In Hyundai/Kia this engine is 10years/200,000 miles. So they need to warranty them up to that point in time. Of course they don't.

[@craiggoodwin9704]

Ivan, thanks for taking us through the diagnosis and disassembly process. Looking forward to Part 2. Thanks for Sharing!

[@mattbrown5511]

200K miles is nothing to scoff at from any vehicle. You did this customer a full head or pushing an engine replacement. You are a good guy, Ivan. We need more guys like you.

[@ricebike]

Id agree.. $2k for a trusted technician (not mechanic) that may last another 150,000 plus beats a $6k engine swap

[@midwestfarm757]

We don't know if its the original engine. Hyundai/Kia has been replacing quite a few of these around 100k miles.

[@mattbrown5511]

@@midwestfarm757 I believe that Ivan would have passed along such a vital piece of information.

[@robpeabo509]

The quick & efficient diagnosis is a good reason why taking it to a "good" mechanic is paramount. You are a good diagnostician Ivan. Unfortunately there are enough crappy ones to sow doubt in peoples minds. You really have to find a good mechanic & stick with them. They won't rip you off, especially as you would be a repeat customer. It took me more than a few workshops to find a good one, that was over 20 years ago. It will be sad when he retires.

[@donb1661]

The bonus for all of your customers is being able to watch the repair and observe the skill, knowledge and special tools required. The cost then seems intirely appropriate and money well spent.

[@W.Khairi]

Good point

[@thk7513]

What about the tracks and tensioner at 200k miles. Oh yeah, safety tip for you non mechanic types; always pull a the wrench handle of a stubborn bolt or nut TOWARDS you and not away from you. Should the fastener break you can control the handle. If you push to loosen and the fastener breaks your hand will go flying off due to kinetic energy till your knuckles hit something solid. Ivan has demonstrated what not to do.

[@Ram14250]

Awesome!! Thanks for uploading. Very interesting teardown and repair!

[@zenithperigee7442]

@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, as usual nice job finding the problem! I can't say I've seen an electric CVVT. That's a new one but then I'm not the "mechanic". My folks' van had a bad injector. I was on the highway less than 5 miles from their home and it was after 9pm and all of a sudden lights and "bells" blaring and the engine sputtering. Higher rpm's did cause it to smooth a bit but... I wasn't sure what it was but managed to get it to their house. The next day I had to get a cheap scanner and of course "misfire". After checking resistance on the injectors I located the culprit. I want to say the good ones were ~12.4Ω and the bad injector was 144Ω. Replacing it fixed the issue. I think the worst part of it tho was getting the plastic fuel lines back together. It had multiple internal seals and varying sizes. Very strange arrangement when a simple fuel-grade rubber hose and flared/barbed steel line has always worked fine. But then everything is about "cutting costs" for the manufacturer. I hope you guys enjoy your Easter weekend!

[@ricebike]

Awesome of that aircraft mechanic to introduce us to that special tool. I got a similar wire brush set to attach to a drill, but nothing that small

[@sabrekat7904]

Really good video. Like the way you show how you work and not just do the "magic timelapse wand" favoured by other content creators

[@eddiereichel9354]

8:15 that ground cleaner is awesome. I put a motor in v6 equinox last year. Main ground cable was in different location on donor engine. Guy working for me pit cable on original corroded location. Engine ran great called customer to come get it. Ended up taking me another day to find the corroded ground.

[@Mr2004MCSS]

Nice video. That borescope is nice. I bought the three camera version of that a while back based on your previous videos using yours. I ordered the bonding brush today. That will come in very useful as I have had to fix several grounds recently because of corrosion at the mounting point.

[@carbonz3739]

Hey Ivan on the CRJ aircraft I work on we use that exact ground tool. It works wonders. The stuff we cover the grounds with is humiseal 1b15. It's basically a clear nail polish. It works wonders to stop corrosion from forming.

[@sblagg527]

We all know about the Theta II engine recall in these cars due to a defect in the manufacturing process that allowed bits of metal to remain in the crankcase after manufacture, getting into the oil and damaging internal engine components. Whether that is an issue of this 2016 Sonata is questionable; however there is now ANOTHER class action lawsuit against Hyundai SPECIFICALLY for the oil consumption issue, filed last year. If the owner of this car has agreed to pay the cost of repair, I would notify him/her to constantly keep an eye on this case as it may result in a full refund of parts/ labor cost, an engine replacement, or both.

[@wadet73]

Even though I drive 20 year old vehicles (2001 Dodge Durango SLT Plus 2wd 4.7 and a 2003 Dodge Dakota SLT 2wd 4.7) because I hate paying for depreciating vehicles with built-in planned obsolescence. Thankfully Chrysler vehicles have the feature to display the DTC Codes on the odometer. That how i kept 4 Grand Cherokees and these 2 Dodges going for so long. What I value in your craft and videos is that you go through an entire diag process and I learn more and more. I also appreciate how you don't automatically load and fire the parts cannon but the few instances you had to, using OEM parts only and watching the scan data proves to me to continue using OEM parts, especially the sensors and other electrical an electronic parts. After having a crate engine put in the Durango (owned it since 2006) i replaced the original coil packs with NGK/NTK coil packs and new NGK plugs. Now it literally runs and idles like a new one. Even replaced the tps with an NTK tps and regained quicker/smoother downshifts when slowing down to make a turn. Once I stopped using lower quality aftermarket parts and sensors and I got great results. I know its 2 plus decade old technology but having built in "code readers" sure helps keep these older Chrysler vehicles going. Sometimes I have to resist reaching into the videos and helping you, especially if there something in the way , or I'll tilt thebphone thinking I'll get a better view 😂 like i can do anything. You keep diagnosing and ill keep watching. Thanks for what i consider wholesome edutainment.

[@Frank-pv1hp]

That's so true about the customer "diagnosing" it themselves. We get so many customers that come in and say they have an engine light on, they want a tune up. I ask them if they want a tune up or do they want their car fixed? Be careful what you ask for. Some shops will gladly take your money and fix nothing.

[@ricebike]

That many miles, plugs are probably about due if the owner replaced them at 100,000 miles... Just say that is a good direction, but they need a trouble code scan/diagnosis on top of it to be sure

[@Agita12]

I have a 2017 sonata and I just got my engine replaced because of oil burning. My car before the engine was replaced. Dh was shaking and didn’t want to turn over right away and I thought it was fixed with the engine being replaced two weeks after I got my new engine. It started shaking again and I took it back in and they said they couldn’t figure out what was wrong with my car. So here now today three weeks later, it’s doing it again, but it actually died this time, then I went to go started it up an hour later and it started up fine. I believe my car has this problem. Thanks for the video!

[@TheOriginalDaveJ]

Phew, I think I'll have to have a cuppa tea and a lie down after that. Tough work undoing the head bolts 😊 Interesting stuff as usual Ivan 😉 Great ethos, repair rather than replace. . A man after my own heart.

[@consaka1]

Lol a stepper motor in the camshaft. I love it.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

DC motor 😁

[@whomisfinally3379]

Well done, man. I would like to point out that in my country, in order to avoid the problems of this type of engine, oil consumption, and crankshaft problems, we do the following: The lower part of the engine is replaced with an engine, and it includes the cylinders (Dodge 2.4 or Mitsubishi engine 2.4), they match perfectly, and as for the upper part We will do whatever you do to fix it

[@Malahoko]

Yessir, that’s a smart solution to the problems! I believe the Kia 2.4 engine block is almost identical to Evo engine

[@noelcastle3986]

Great video those head bolts sounded very strange are probably torque to yield , if it was my car would probably pull the sump undo the big ends push the pistons out check the ring lands and put new rings in if the cross hatching is worn give the bores a quick hone.. have done that a few times on my daughters oil burning mitsubishi beater cars they first owned had pretty good results for not a huge money investment. But I understand it all pushes the price up and the owner just wants it fixed quick and cheap. Looking forward to part two.

[@craigiefconcert6493]

I guess that once you have the head off with most engine designs you can take the bottom end apart and get the pistons out without having to take the engine out. Great advice!

[@hugh007]

@@craigiefconcert6493 I'm not familiar with that car but many newer cars require a lot of removal underneath to get the pan. Steering, suspension, etc. Even releasing engine mounts and jacking the engine up. May not be economically feasible for the owner.

[@noelcastle3986]

@@hugh007 yes these where older Mitsubishi,s and Hyuandis I found they wore piston rings out quickly but had easy access to the sump . Once they ran in they where good with restored compression and no more oil burning. Newer engines are probably not all as easy I know newer Honda's have weird sump and engine construction on the bottom of the engine.

[@dealerauctionnightmare4689]

I did a timing job on a '16 Soul with the 2.0L and it took me forever to get the timing cover & oil pan off. Whatever sealant they used was great except when you need to take it apart.

[@dendkmac]

Love watching these types or repair's

[@davidmorris4819]

The brush pilot is very neat ! Seeing you taking the timing chain off the cams took me back to your your Maserati (Chrysler 300C?) job a few months ago.

[@RobsSierraCosworth]

That was a very interesting video thank you for posting it Ivan, that electrically controlled cam timing was a bit odd, I did not see any wires attached to the timing chain cover?

[@baxrok2.]

Great diag and teardown Ivan. Thanks!

[@LesReeves]

I was taught to always have a piece of cardboard with the front of the engine marked & then punch holes in it to place the head bolts in order of removal ( also some vehicles require new head bolts as the old ones stretch when removed ) & those ones sounded like they are a single use by the sound they made being undone.Cheers.

[@RussellBooth1977]

At work when we fit an Earth stud onto a panel which has been painted we use star washers which dig into the paint.but it's also double nutted as well. Hyundai are hoping that the bolt will be sufficient in passing current through it & the connector in mass production !

[@AP9311]

Hey, that's a fancy drill bit, lol. But it's better with 4 cyl than 6 how convenient it is doing the job!! Them bolts so tight cuz of 200k miles of use. Nice and easy job Ivan!! Great video!!

[@tedjohnson64]

Excellent camera angles and lighting!

[@throttlebottle5906]

nice specific tools, but for normal use, I always just grab the small "wire end brush" and drill. if you push hard enough they generally flex enough that bristles will keep them in place by riding in the top of threads. I've used the same process to clean bolt hole faces on caliper brackets, knuckles and anything else that needs surface cleaned around the hole.

[@hugh007]

I've been driving and repairing my cars for 55 years. On the very few times I've had work done at commercial shops, I've been disappointed with the diagnosis or the repairs. From stripped oil pan threads to a wobbling differential pinion after the oil seal replacement. DIY is cheaper and a better job even if I have to buy a special tool. I've got a lot of them now.. wish you lived here in FL. Thanks.

[@matthewzoelle9149]

Interesting tool for the ground. I usually use my die grinder with a sand paper cookie on it. Not a perfect of a circle but I paint over the finished product anyway.

[@molsky13]

Ivan your a brave man repairing a 200k engine hope all goes well

[@Grayhook1]

As a retired airplane mechanic, I can tell you that not only are all ground wires and surfaces brushed, as with that tool, but sealed with a painted or daubed on rubberized coating, then painted and often coated with more anti-corrosives again. Every step along the way is inspected and tested. Expensive, but robust as hell. And yeah, re-work/repair is a career unto itself. Enjoy watching your work, it’s relaxing when I’m not elbow deep into my own, or friend/family projects.

[@windward2818]

The real challenge for the vehicle body grounds is they are not usually sealed from the bottom. So if it is corroded you may have to relocate the ground nearby. A common approach is to used a galvanized steel rivnut (into a steel frame) in a newly drilled hole, install the ground and then seal it. If you can relocate the ground to the side of the vehicle sheet metal, you could have the opportunity to paint the new rivnut ground and then seal it. Unfortunately, many time you cannot get to the back of a blind ground in order to seal it, but the ground is still exposed to salt spray.

[@sflotr]

The longer you live, the more you will see. Love your channel Ivan!!

[@durvalrebelo2624]

Great video, good explanation, I enjoy videos in real time.👍👍👍

[@alexanderzubar9593]

Great video Ivan. What I’ve seen before on oil burners due to rings : the oil washes the carbon off the outer diameter of the piston crowns. This one didn’t show that. Is the oil going somewhere else? Or is this characteristic of GDI? Hyundai going 200k ! Is amazing. There is a recall for 2019 thru 2021 Hyundai Konas. Engines use oil and die before 20k!

[@jimg8049]

Nice work Ivan, I'd like to see how carboned up the intake valves are in part 2.

[@flatdaddio]

Great video Ivan. Every head bolt you loosened made me cringe. 😂

[@mthompson1637]

I still have 2 of those bonding brushes left from my old avionics tech days, well worn and barely usable but still get the job done

[@derrickphillips354]

Yeah Hyundai made it so the check engine light only flashes on code p1326. Also they have a combustion chamber cleaning process recommended every 36k, 8 hour process. Also on part 2 the spec for ecvvt brushes are anything under 4mm fully extended. They did look smaller than that. Just some info

[@rogerghiardi7723]

Very cool tool, you'll use it. Just like any other automotive tool it's the right tool for the job and there when you need it.

[@petepeabody8905]

Smoother is good. great diagnosis

[@jdtractorman7445]

I'm glad I don't work on these foreign cars. Even have a specific "loosening sequence" for the head bolts. How ridiculous. I think there may be a possibility, however slight, that the old fuel injector may have been partially restricted causing the cylinder to run hot and burn the valve. Now we will never really know because it's been replaced. It would have been interesting to see a leakdown test on the injectors before that one was replaced.

[@NICK-uy3nl]

Aside from mechanical valve fatigue, burnt valve usually indicates elevated cylinder temperatures resulting from extra-lean burn conditions in the particular cylinder, In DI engines that would point to defective fuel injector or low fuel pressure.

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

You are a magnet for burnt exhaust valves, Ivan! Nice ground contact cleaning brushes - I use a Dremel with a small steel brush, but this is so much easier and results are really satisfying :-) Are you doing something about that rotary contact on the camshaft? It looks to be at the end of its life (that contact groove seems very deep). On to Part 2 :-)

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

See pinned comment for link :)

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

@T.J. Kong 👍

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks, Ivan!

[@jamesatkinson6480]

Most of the 'Sonata' I have seen have a V6 engine but unsure of its capacity (about 3 litres). For a 4 cylinder to travel 195,000 miles is quite impressive for a medium size car. In many early car road tests, one item on the repair parts price list was a 'set of exhaust valves', so all those years back, a full replacement of exhaust valves was a common occurrence. That was with cast iron cylinder heads with valve guides integral with the cylinder head, and a variety of oversize valves available after machining. I would be interested to see the results after a full exhaust valve replacement, and whether adding an 'octane boost and clean' to the fuel would be of any benefit to the engine performance (usually a combination of naphthalene, diesel, and a manganese compound (catalytic function)...

[@aranhaydar9195]

It's always super exciting when PHAD posts a new video 🎉

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Thank you for your support Aran :)

[@aranhaydar9195]

@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics and thank you for sharing valuable information Ivan :)

[@joeandgod1]

Ivan, I think you should get one of those big, juicy Astro hood lights, that go from one side of the hood to the other.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

The life of the engine is until the warranty has expired. If you leave the chain more than about 10 years or 100k miles you got to know when to hold 'em know when to fold 'em. Especially with 20k mile oil changes you at least need to inspect the tensioner at 100k and if you do that you might aswell change the chain when you are there.

[@rogerghiardi7723]

Don't stop making videos, their great

[@paultro8457]

Wow, very nice of that person to send that to you.😊

[@cwstout1]

This is cool watching Ivan spin a wrench. Only if PICO made something to get those head bolts out.

[@TonyRule]

You've gotta love having to fix the previous guy's fix that didn't even fix the problem.

[@ivorgotten2368]

It's going to be scary when you torque those Gudentheit head bolts back down. Good job Ivan.

[@TheOnespeedbiker]

I would really like to see the carbon build up behind the intake valves seeing this is a GDI engine. The going price for a 2016 Hyundai Sonata is $12,000 to $16,000 so doing $2,000- $3,000 repair makes all kinds of sense. Further, exhaust valves and a timing chain is almost routine maintenance on a Hyundai, especially at 200,000 miles. The problem is finding a qualified mechanic; this owner is very fortunate.

[@ThunderbirdRocket]

Hello Ivan , thanks for sharing your expertise and taking such great care to capture the perfect video shots to help us understand your coaching cues .

[@GraditelMacedonia]

There on that chain cover existing holes with thread , and when you screw bolt inside holes serve and push out that cover.

[@averyalexander2303]

Interesting video as always! Is there something about burning oil that ruins the valves? I never heard of that before and I've known of some bad oil burners that ran fine for many years that way.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Yeah hard to predict... Some engines burn oil for years and keep going. Other ones not so much!

[@gary5172]

I kept wanting to hand you my heavy duty 25 inch harbor freight breaker bar-makes easy work out of those head bolts.

[@ghenry85]

Great video, but I have some questions/comments: Why aren't you replacing the chain guides with the chain? In my own experience replacing head bolts when taking the head off for a repair seems to be a good investment, since when we do not replace them, we always seem to have blown head gaskets a short time later. Toyota also have electric valve timing on their newer engines. My understanding is that they are pretty reliable on Toyotas. They are almost simpler than the oil pressure type.

[@jimkillen1065]

Several years ago you could buy take out engines from Japan that had all the accessories on them that were low miles in Dallas ..i used them and has good luck with them .. enjoy the videos

[@consaka1]

That ground cleaner. Slap some no-ox on there and it should be good for life.

[@billziegmond4943]

Why are all these valves failing. Great video my friend. How was the road trip. Amanda didn't bring home any big 4 legged friends did she.

[@nikik89]

Great video....🙈can you next time make in-cylinder pressure test with Pressure Trancducer before and after? Thank.

[@huntnfishnuts5880]

Those head bolts are a bear to get out,I bought an extra long socket to remove them to avoid the clearance issues, I wan to see what the intake valves look like 😂

[@mannyordunez3949]

Subscribed Immediately because this video. Thank you, Sir.

[@lstruggy]

That thing sounded like an old chakowski Russian industrial chopper starting up 😂

[@coreydinsdale7258]

Just made a comment about this on another channel, check the catalytic converter, both of them, do backpressure at idle and at 2500 rpm and check inlet and outlet temps.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Replaced an engine on a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. Used engine was an import from Korea with around 70,000 miles. Old engine was nocking!

[@trezsr]

I was taught that exhaust valves burn due to worn valve guides and/or inadequate seat pressure a la weak valve springs. I think you should consider replacing those items as well as long as you’re at it, if possible.

[@kaseymccleary946]

Quick question on this, I am learning more about proper auto diagnostics and moving away from just being a parts changer so to speak, so I hope this doesn't sound like a dumb question but did you do a leak down test on the engine? Maybe it wasn't needed, but if you did I am assuming it would have failed a leakdown test on that cylinder? Unrelated.....Just bought a Topdon phoenix smart, super excited about the possibility having a nice tool opens up for me.

[@Samadork]

Funny, we have a Skoda Octavia with a "melted" exhaustvalve in the shop now. Customer managed to fill up with diesel and drove it till it didn't wanna no more...

[@GNX157]

28:00 I was surprised to see you take off the cam caps like that. Generally speaking, the latest accepted method is to break each bolt loose manually about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, the loosen all the rest of the way with a power tool, same as you did with the head bolts, manually all with a breaker bar, then run them out with a power tool. If you do it like this, you want have the issue you had with the last two at 28:15.

[@kerrylewis2581]

Lots of Ivan Ugga Duggas were required to break those head bolts loose. It sounded like ouch, ouch, ouch, ouch

[@keithwelton]

You would find it easier to undo tight bolts if you had the breaker bar closer to the bolt head. A long socket piece with an extension piece makes it more difficult to apply the torque needed.

[@crisprtalk6963]

Those airplane guys know all the tricks. 😃

[@craigtegeler4677]

Burnt valve OR carboned up really bad that the exhaust valve isn't closing all the way! An oil burner will mess over the catalytic converter too and cause it to plug up and overheat. Running an additional grounding cable to the engine on the topside engine compartment is greatly beneficial too! In fact that is what I will be doing with my 2003 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee here on Monday! My starter always wants to grunt when the engine and starter is hot but I am quite sure that I'll cure that one real soon!

[@lvsqcsl]

If 200,000 miles is a lot on a timing chain, what is 455,000 miles? I guess I am on borrowed time. If you recommended total engine replacement, I guess the transmission is going to need replacement as well. Great video!

[@Sandmansa]

I am actually impressed that Hyundi actually still ran as good as it did with nearly 200k miles on it. I typically see them falling apart long before that point. Hey Ivan, are those head bolts torque to yield? In the video, you said that you were not sure.

[@paintballalienindy09]

Yes they are do not reuse them

[@benbaltazar1236]

That's the problem with some engine when they went to thin low tension piston rings 20 weight oil for better mileage, they fail to seal good, causing high oil consumption prematurely

[@Kevin-qn7jf]

In the case of deciding to replace the timing chain, I would have done guides and tensioner as well. I understand it raises the cost, but if either fails.....

[@monkeywentbananas]

I cringed when You started removing those head bolts! I think You are right in stating these engines aren't meant to be disassembled.

[@reese8752]

In every situation, the opportunity to do it right existed the first time.

[@jimforsyth2.]

Got to put a link in for the ground cleaning tools

[@JA-rc4uy]

Loved that special tool! So easy and efficient. Any idea where I could get one??

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

See pinned comment for link :)

[@simonjones7785]

these dual camera angle borescops are super coolyup I got mine 30 seconds work just takes the paint off it needs to work brilliantly on the lancias and alfas I work on both are prone to earth fails

[@richardsawtell256]

i did a short block one of those engines last week was a oil burner , i replaced the head bolts was 40 NM + 95 degrees + 95 degrees what a workout haha

[@theblackhand6485]

At least you should do is to regrind all the valves, intake and exhaust. Then you are sure all is right. That means the used ones and the new ones. So heading over to the machine shop is a must. ...or doing them all by hand. That's up to you. ...but while being there at the machine shop: change the valve seals too. And for the best you should check, ultra sone clean the pistons, and replace the piston rings as well.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Too much work haha

[@Hooterzutoob]

Love the video's, but you need some light in your shop plus an under the hood light.

[@misterhipster9509]

Good on the pilot brush, ordered a set from McMaster Carr.

[@misterhipster9509]

There's not enough money to do that job and live with the after effects.

[@unclebilly4696]

Number 3 intake valves look a little wet. Maybe bad intake valve seals and the cause of some of the oil burning.

[@bellasvistas3463]

Love your diagnostics!! I'm wondering about a 2004 Toyota Corolla with 90,000 miles. How often to adjust the valves?

[@alex241]

A Toyota? Just change the oil regularly and drive it !!!😂😂😂

[@karlschauff7989]

@@alex241 More like add oil regularly. Toyota quality began it's decline beginning in the mid 2000's. It's woefully mediocre in the last 10 years particularly.

[@leedress2187]

The low tension oil rings have been a nightmare for Hyundai.

[@pookatim]

It is nuts that those head bolts are so tight and require such a socket. What happened to the good old hex heads?

[@Texas4x]

Friend of mine took his Elantra into the dealership for service and the service advisor actually asked him "What's wrong with it, besides being a Hyundai??? Lol. You just can't make this stuff up.