Missing Sound Frequencies? WHY add signals w/ signal summing - EXPLAINED!

[@matmichalke5734]

I’d really like to see some videos on adding a second battery and choosing battery isolators and installing them. Thanks for all your videos, they are very informative and I really enjoy watching your channel!!!

[@nathantylersturgill]

Always enjoyed this guys videos, I work for Crutchfield and I can say from experience Mark knows his stuff, had never subscribed for some reason but I fixed that now.

[@Somesh-Ji]

I am not interested in setting a car setreo,,, But still watches your video to Increase knowledge about these stuffs..... Great man. Keep it up 👍🏾👍🏼

[@charliecox479]

Man I would love to work beside you and learn a lot. you do some awesome work and what I like about you you go all out.

[@markphilpot4981]

Mark, another great explanation with what the problems are, what they look like and how to solve them using the test and real gear that will correct the problem. Not a lot of questions when you lay it out! Good job!

Thanks for learning us to properly understand installing good audio setups into our cars. With every video I learnt something new and you explain it all in good to follow videos. When the time comes I will replace my setup and implement your tips and tricks to get proper sound in my car once I'm done building my garage so I finally have the space to do this. Thanks for learning us. 👍👍

[@Mr2SMOOTH24]

I must say bro you know your stuff... I enjoy watching your videos... I learn alot from them... Blessings 💯🙏🙏👼👼

[@dormammu.87]

Mark.... i thank you so much, i have learned the thing that will makes me hear a good bass after i bought new car with original head unit i can't change. I took the signal and i missed the sub signal and i will do as you said in this video. You are great Mark, keep on

[@marcovega9793]

Love your videos Mark! Very informative, I always learn a lot from watching. You definitely inspire me in becoming better

[@ecpruthless]

REW Room EQ Wizzard Freeware rta program ....works amazing....highly recommend Good stuff mark! Love it!

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

ecpruthless Thanks for the info!

[@frankherrera4044]

Hi Mark ... Thanks for placing another great video. 👊🏽😎

[@MrAflyer94]

Mark are you able to make a video on how you determine which wires are outputs for a factory amplifier/processor to add an LC2I. I can’t seem to find a video on it. It a 2015 F150 lariat with Sony Sound System. Thanks

[@Dough296]

Nice ! Why not using the stereo signal the head unit produces before getting in the stock factory amplifier ?

[@vitaminb4869]

Because that way he can't sell that AudioControl summing box 😂

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

The higher the level output (from the amp in this case) the easier it is to see on an oscilloscope or similar tool. Also you won’t have to drive up your gains as much... Better to have your RCA’s putting out 4-9 volts vs. the 1-2 volts you’ll get from most factory amplifiers.

[@vadikvadik753]

Good video, I need some of the audiocontrol but I cant decide which one🙄

[@Smileyguy-jy6xm]

Real deal stereo info!!! Kept looking for that tiny hand I've seen you sneak in before...just sayin". LOL

[@jonathanramos8589]

I would love for you to tune my car. No one down here really knows how to tune it. Wish we was closer.

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

jonathan ramos hey man, do you have an oscilloscope or an SMD distortion detector or RTA? I can walk you through it. There is a way you can do it with math and a regular volt meter, it’s not as accurate. There is also a way you can tune it by ear using certain frequencies but it’s very hard, for me anyway, to tell when a 40Hz tone is clipping... the 1000Hz tone however is pretty obvious.

[@miguelvergara3756]

In what state and city do you work from?

[@ronjlwhite8058]

Good information to know!!!

[@413x398]

Very slick.

[@WICKEDLUIS]

Man where is your shop? No one has been able to set up my 2019 mustang gt properly.

[@ryanb8736]

What would I need for a new Audi with Bang&Olufson? I want new amps and speakers.

[@thebalticbull]

So signal summing is used best with a factory system but not so necessary with a full blown aftermarket system?

[@garrettgiuffre7298]

I want to double check with you because I got a answer from audio control I think conflict what you are saying. I want to pull the post factory amp going to the factory speaker as the input for something like the lc2i as line level input?

[@4G63Tpower]

Can you touch on what gear you would use to adjust the audiable sound produced from the speakers. I know Rockford three6three DSP has a microphone for this

[@grumpywhiteman]

What are you playing as source material? White noise? Pink noise? Other?

[@MauiSoundsCarAudio]

Do you happen to know if a 2016 toyota tacoma has full signal going to the rear channels ?

[@juancarlosrubio3548]

Got one of these for summing but factory amp turn off since there no speaker loads

[@derakho]

Try Helix, Brax DSP

[@Obsidian0Knight]

What kind of audio do you feed the amp? Pink noise?

[@lenanaH]

I just bought a new Rockford amp for indoor use only to realize I cannot use it because of ground loop problems in my apartment. If I try to connect to the receiver there's an extremely loud deafening hum from the dual 12" subs. After googling I found out that I must purchase a ground loop isolator which is not available in my country and will be procured in months...Imagine the frustration :(

[@scottgraham9797]

I’m struggling a little with the signal summing on the DM-810. If you have rca inputs and sum 1 and 2 are you not turning a stereo signal into a mono signal? Channel 1 would be front left and channel 2 would be front right. If I sum them together it would be mono wouldn’t it?

[@dgam8261]

Do most dsp units do signal summing? Like the pioneer dsp?

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

I’m planning on replacing my factory alternator in my 2007 Honda Pilot. Based on what I have read and based on power consumption (about 3000 watts for my setup), I understand that using an alternator in the 240 amp range is the best way to go. From what I’ve read a 240 amp alternator doesn’t require any special modifications to the vehicle. I’ve found several “direct bolt in/fit” for my Pilot. I have already upgraded all of the wiring to 0gg OFC (my big 3 upgrade). I also would like to add an additional battery for going to shows and the drive in theater where it’s not ideal to leave a car idling for long periods of time. I would love to hear your take on this. Is the information I’ve received correct, or am I better off going with more amps? Additionally I’ve ran my big 3 with the OEM wiring still in place. The OEM wiring runs to a fuse box under the hood and passes through a 120 amp fuse which distributes power to that fuse panel and the rest of the fuse boxes in the vehicle. As of yet, I have not fused my big 3 in between the alternator and the battery and wonder if I should do so? It is “of course” fused from the battery (about 8” from the positive lead) before it reaches my distribution blocks pre amplifiers. Is this the way you would do things and why? Thanks much for all you do and for making me spit out my drink the first time I saw your tiny hand. 🤣

[@garrettgiuffre7298]

If you add a battery make sure you have the proper battery management controller for the alternator to charge the two the correct way.

[@russellbluewolf6427]

would a dsp also work for someone with tinnitis?(ringing in ears) to boost certain frequencies?

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

Russell Bluewolf yeah, but you don’t want to make your tinnitus worse either.

[@ryanwilson5936]

You could always use subtractive eq’ing. Instead of raising the frequencies affected by your tinnitus, lower ALL of the other frequencies in unity and then raise the overall level as a whole. However, you still run into the same issue as the other Ryan pointed out about making your condition worse over time.

[@alex06112003]

Awesome video I have a question hopefully you can help me. I have a 2019 Honda civic type R. Decided to upgrade the Front components and rear components and put in a 12 inch woofer everything is by Pioneer with the 5 channel pioneer amp and a audison bit ten sound processor. I’m using the factory head unit. The people that installed my sound system are telling me due to the factory amp. Is the reason why the front components are not getting full range of sound I am only getting highs but the rear components are working fine I have full sound high Mid and bass. They’re telling me that I have to upgrade my sound processor to a 8 channel and Add a four channel amp so everything could have it on channel. I just want to make sure these people are not lying to me can you help me out please. Thank you.

[@jamesmannion4976]

I’m looking at doing an audio upgrade on my new car but I don’t have the budget to go all out. Do you have any videos on an upgradable system where to start and what to add next to get the best system in the end.

[@vitaminb4869]

I'd get an amp, front speakers, and a sub. Get a 3 channel amp that can power the fronts and a sub. That's all you really need for a good system. Buy front speakers and amp first. Then when you have more money, add the sub.

[@Strizzle81]

Great video...have a jl fix86 summing signal with 5.25" Hertz components up front and rear facing 12" sealed sub in the rear of a 4 door wrangler. Where do you like the crossovers set for a nice blend? Currently have component crossover at >90 hz and sub at

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

Matt Strunk hi Matt, if I understand what you wrote correctly, then you have a gap of at least 15Hz between your Sub and your Hertz. If the Hertz still sound good at 75Hz you could just drop them down to 75Hz and maybe raise the sub to 80Hz. This way you will not have a gap in the frequencies of the music being played and you will have a better rollover. If the hertz don’t sound good playing at 75Hz then do the opposite and bring your sub up to 90-100Hz and bring the Hertz down to as low of a frequency they still sound good and don’t clip. Hope this helps.

[@Regulators0001]

So this is not necessarily needed being aftermarket setups?

[@RajeshKumar-zd7gk]

Hi sir, please make a video of dsp full wiring connection with diagram sir, i am install a dsp in my car so sir plaease a video in dsp full wire connection

[@SacredAmbulance]

Will it sound ok if I install a sub in my cargo cover?

[@ravivenugopal3251]

Hi. I am facing some issues. I have a ford ecosport 2016. I replaced the HU with an android head unit. It is using factory harness to power the speakers. Now i installed a chinese DSP puzu c31...but i am not able to get good sub output. The factory harness sends 2 channels front and rear..to the dsp..via a t harness...the DSP BT however sends good subout...any solution how to do it?

[@1452-w3b]

Howdy y’all

[@gizmoochi]

Hey Mark, another great video. I have a quick question I was hoping you could reply to. I added a small amp and subwoofer to my wifes car. Her car doesn't have a premium sound system so I spliced a wire off the rear speakers and used it to feed the input of my amp. The bass is very poor. I think the factory head unit lowers the bass at higher volumes to protect the factory speakers. I also can't change the head unit as it is behind a circuit board with integrated air conditioning switches. Any suggestions on what I can do or what Audio Control product I could use to help with this situation?

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

The Audio Control LC2i will resolve your issue. It has a feature called AccuBass that prevents the bass from rolling off as the stereo gets cranked up. Hooks up like a regular LIne Output Converter and you’re going to need a set of quality RCA cables to run from the LC2i to your amp as you wont be running your amp high level anymore. There isn’t already a factory subwoofer in the car is there? If there is, you need to tap in at the Sub, not the 6x9.

[@titocanek5918]

I have a lc6i on a 2015 Camry non JBL and have a zzzz coming from speaker with the volume on 0

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

TiTo Cane K are you running a sub amp and a 4 channel amp? If you e got your lc6i hooked up right you might want to double check your amp ground. Mark has a video on this I’m sure you can search and easily find. It could be something else, but I’d start there.

[@vitaminb4869]

Why not just get the signal straight from the head unit? Why would you want to connect amplifier on top of another amplifier even?

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

Vitamin B the higher the level output (from the amp in this case) the easier it is to see on an oscilloscope or similar tool. Also you won’t have to drive up your gains as much... Better to have your RCA’s putting out 4-9 volts vs. the 1-2 volts you’ll get from most factory amplifiers.

[@tfunk1829]

Doesn't the D series amp have all those devices built in?

[@msrcracing8387]

same question here

[@werwitch5851]

Hi Mark, when using GTO feature, is the extremely attenuated rear speaker output signal enough to turn on the LC7i? I understand that GTO is dependent on the Main Channel but sadly the Channel 3 is coming from Channel 2. In this extremely low signal from Rear, is there a way to re-route the Main Channel Input signal to Channel 3(intended for the sub out) to get the full range signal.

[@karimsoufiani2147]

Hi Mark pardon my question i have a 8 channels 55rms amp dsp from match PP 86DSP focal compoments 140w (70rms)in the front and focal coaxial in the rear and a separate monoblock for my subwoofer so technically 1 channel to every door since I also have passive crossover in the front I will have 4 unused channels on my amp dsp it also have 9 dsp channels what is the best way to get the best performance out of my amp does summing channels mean more power (rms) ? Any suggestions to get the best out of my amp dsp ?

[@eriksnider7189]

if you and Chrisfix had a baby, it would be the chosen one.

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

Erik Snider 🤣

[@rigormortis2814]

I was getting excited when you were talking about which wires to use. Then you said we have to do our own testing. The part that I’m confused about is what are those connections on the bottom of your test center? They look like RCA connections. So will I have to cut some RCA’s on one end to hook up to a LOC?

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

Rigor Mortis those are banana plugs that hook up to regular speaker wire only making up half of a channel, where the RCA makes up one whole channel. So, no you would not need to splice RCA’s. Just use regular speaker wire to tap in at the output of the amp, whether it’s in the head unit itself, or in this scenario after the OEM amplifier.

[@MrofficialC]

What rta are you using? Could you make a video on rta’s please

[@BLLACKSTTAR]

He says what RTA he's using in the video

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

Lol

[@neilhowe2665]

or intercept the signal before the amp................?

[@CarAudioFabrication]

Many oem head units control volume output over data connection to the oem amp, so not always a solution.

[@Cathul]

@@CarAudioFabrication More often than not you can use a PAC AmpPro or idatalink AR or idatalink DSR1 or a NAVTV box for that, at least for US based cars... :P

Btw. Have you ever considered doing a setup for a boat? I would like to see your take on this. 🤔 I bet you get a ton of clicks on a video for a boat build. (HINT) 😉

[@CyFi6]

Hi Mark. When you play pink noise are you at maximum volume on the stock head unit? Doesnt the signal response/curve for each output change depending on the volume (the actual curve not just the DB level) and how do you accomodate for that in your tuning? I know accubass is a feature that compensates for the bass roll off but is that the only change in the response that you typically see as volume is increased from 0 to max on a stock stereo? On factory systems, is the EQ done in the head unit or the amp or are some systems different? Thanks

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

CyFi6 Ideally you want to figure out where the stock head unit (any head unit for that matter) before you start tuning the system. This way if your head unit goes up to 60, but starts clipping at 55, then you know the maximum volume will always be 54. Now that we know that 54 is the max volume the head unit puts out without clipping/distortion, its time to move on to tuning and setting our amp gains so they won’t clip either. The ideal sound system is going to sound as close to real as being at the concert live. To get the most accurate response we want to use speakers that have less perceptible changes (why using a 2 way or 3 way component set will always sound better than a coaxial speaker). Once the tuning is set as close to flat as possible,the attenuation of the speakers as they roll off should not be very noticeable, if at all. Of course there are many other factors that play into this. If one has the option of tuning with a DSP or equalizer pre amp, the system will sound better than using the factory equalizer in a stock radio, though it is t a requirement and doing it the other way may be the only option for the moment depending on the client’s budget.

[@doublemanson]

🛑 NEED HELP. I have a pioneer DVD head unit of which I convert songs and music videos from KZbin and put it on USB drive for playback in my vehicle. Because of the compressed audio files (avi and mp3 format) am not getting a crisp and loud enough audio file like I would when using an artist original CD, as result i find myself having to turn the volume louder and then back down because of clipping. (I have a 15" kicker compC sub in a ported box powered by a 800rms pioneer amp and a audio control epicenter and a kicker 650.4 powering my pioneer door speakers) what device can I use to get back audio quality that was lost during format file compression.

[@johanurena2530]

Hi mark, I would like to know how to add a 6x9 speaker on my car, what do i need to nake this happen. Mind you my car have components speakers on the back door and a 3 way system on the front. I have an empty space on the back glass that i can put a 6x9 speaker. Thanks

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

Johan Urena are you looking to acquire more bass or do you want more fill from the back for some reason?

[@johanurena2530]

@@ryanmalinovsky6504 fill. I have the space for it but dont know how to go about it since i have a 3 way an components in the back. Meaning connection wise

[@cowboyrome731]

Signal summing? I use to just switch the wires back and forth on my speakers till I got the best bass or the best highs....wala...

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

CowboyRome that works well when you’re not sure if the speakers are in phase and don’t have fancy tools to test that out... if you’re able to see any of the woofer/coaxial speakers in the car, then you can always disconnect one from the stereo/amp and use a double/triple a battery to pop the speaker. If the speaker pops outward then you know the speaker wire your touching to the positive side of the battery is your positive lead and the wire touching the negative terminal of the battery is your negative lead. This really only works well with 4 speaker systems or 6 speaker systems where the tweeter is passively crossed over with the woofer. What Mark is talking about is an active system where each driver is run from an independent channel on the amplifier. Hope that helps

[@TheJanope13]

new cars just seem like such a pain in the ass to work it, cost you a fortune to get a decent system. Wouldn't most of audio controls lineup be made redundant with a high quality aftermarket headunit? pretty new at this so i could be wrong. Nothing wrong with that either, i understand there is now a market for them and they have created a great product but jeez theyre pricey. Not a dig at them and similar products but more so for new cars which are practically impossible to change headunits on

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

I’m assuming you’re referring to their lineup of LOC’s and DSP’s; you’re not wrong, there are several ways to calibrate a system. Aftermarket head units often come with built in EQ, crossover networks, time alignment and more. So you’re right that it is not an essential item to get your system working and sounding right. On the other hand, most aftermarket head units usually max out at around 5 volts on their pre amp RCA outputs, and a lot of Audio control products allow you to get up to 9 volts output from the RCA pre outs. This means you don’t have to turn your gains on your amp up as much. Also, when it comes to using one of audio controls active crossover units or DSP units, you often have the ability to see your audio output on a computer screen allowing you to fine tune everything by seeing your EQ curve in real time, prevent clipping w/out the use of an oscilloscope and a lot more. It’s not that the built in features in a high quality aftermarket head unit are bad, it’s that audio control features are better, even superior. Say you buy a $500 aftermarket head unit and it has all the bells and whistles (Apple car play/ Android Auto, custom EQ, time alignment, etc.) That’s a ton of features packed into one item and audio control’s DSP for example is what? 8-900 bucks and it’s design is focused only on audio performance... the parts inside the DSP are going to be made up of superior quality parts vs. what you’re getting in a high end aftermarket head unit. It’s the same reason we want to add amplifiers to our system instead of running everything off of the head unit. We want better sound, not to mention that without some kind of module from PAC or Maestro or Metra you’re not going to be able to make an aftermarket head unit control an 11 speaker system efficiently without extra parts. I think Audio Control is here to stay for the distant future as cars, like you said are becoming more and more difficult to integrate into. Fiat/Ferrari

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

I’m assuming you’re referring to their lineup of LOC’s and DSP’s; you’re not wrong, there are several ways to calibrate a system. Aftermarket head units often come with built in EQ, crossover networks, time alignment and more. So you’re right that it is not an essential item to get your system working and sounding right. On the other hand, most aftermarket head units usually max out at around 5 volts on their pre amp RCA outputs, and a lot of Audio control products allow you to get up to 9 volts output from the RCA pre outs. This means you don’t have to turn your gains on your amp up as much. Also, when it comes to using one of audio controls active crossover units or DSP units, you often have the ability to see your audio output on a computer screen allowing you to fine tune everything by seeing your EQ curve in real time, prevent clipping w/out the use of an oscilloscope and a lot more. It’s not that the built in features in a high quality aftermarket head unit are bad, it’s that audio control features are better, even superior. Say you buy a $500 aftermarket head unit and it has all the bells and whistles (Apple car play/ Android Auto, custom EQ, time alignment, etc.) That’s a ton of features packed into one item and audio control’s DSP for example is what? 8-900 bucks and it’s design is focused only on audio performance... the parts inside the DSP are going to be made up of superior quality parts vs. what you’re getting in a high end aftermarket head unit. It’s the same reason we want to add amplifiers to our system instead of running everything off of the head unit. We want better sound, not to mention that without some kind of module from PAC or Maestro or Metra you’re not going to be able to make an aftermarket head unit control an 11 speaker system efficiently without extra parts. I think Audio Control is here to stay for the distant future as cars, like you said are becoming more and more difficult to integrate into. Fiat/Ferrari

[@gioarteaga3984]

Dude 880views 48likes,48 minutes ago

[@chrissewell1608]

Dude! For some F'N reason KZbin quit sending me, notices of your videos, for 3 or 4 months! I had to drop you, then re-apply you, to get your notices of NEW videos! WTF? You are getting shafted as bad as the gun tubbers are!

[@ryanmalinovsky6504]

Chris Sewell I’m having issues w/KZbin as well. I pay for premium and should be able to leave a video playing and exit the app w/out closing it, but that feature isn’t working and it usually just closes on its own when I’m trying to watch something. KZbin told me their engineers are working on it.