Miter Saw Upgrades - Zero Clearance Insert and Fence

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Here's a great jig that turns your circular saw into a do-almost-everything tool and there's a free plan available: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2Tdg31unpt6e6M

[@TomRubicon5949]

Made those two jigs today. As a novice woodworker this took me the entire day but it was worth it. Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks - looking forward to trying out more of your videos/plans

[@drright2410]

Great diy how-to. Just made the same fence to my sliding miter saw except I added a small touch. Added a t-track rail to the top of the fence and a t-track flip down stop The t-track I added to both sides of the fence so I can use the stop either side

[@davedaniels8211]

Excellent tutorial. During lockdown here in 🇬🇧,.my daily routine was either home decorating, gardening or DIY in the garage. Videos like yours were lifesavers, so thanks for all your ideas in keeping me sane.

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Kind words...thanks, Dave

[@nataliearena2241]

Just what i was looking for

[@glg3945]

Very informative! Really enjoy your detailed videos and easy to follow directions. Peace and good fortune and good health to you and your family.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Very cool little added mods bro

[@Brigade069]

Great video thanks I have the same saw.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

The wood insert is nice

[@Ben-fk9ey]

Just got a Metabo and this is exactly what I was looking for, great video!

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Glad it helped!

[@dajur1]

I got a Metabo too, and the stock fence it trash. I'll be doing this as well.

[@philquarmby4408]

What about when you do a 45 degree cut

[@nyrainman4897]

I have a Kobalt miter saw similar to yours and the back plate (fence) is bellied towards the back, which is causing some kickback and of course cuts that are not square. If I run a straight edge across it, there is almost 3/16 of an inch space in the middle. I can't find parts for it and need some suggestions as how to modify this for the reasons above.

[@pauldattilo7050]

You think that there might be deflection if a long fence (4ft) is attached but if T-track is installed front and rear, that would keep it straight.

[@anyfoolknowthat]

2 questions: Is the fence something you expect to replace regularly? Did you add on measuring tape to the fence?

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

I may have to replace it eventually, but I made it out of a harder wood so that it would last several years. I didn't add a tape. That's something I'll add once I eventually make a miter saw station.

[@biggstile]

Thanks for mentioning flex issue.

[@brianfries5658]

I just pick up this saw. I was wondering if your would make and sell them at all? I don’t have all the equipment to make one. Thanks

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Hey Brian, I'm not doing any production like that, but maybe in the future

[@judithrob1591]

This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Angle Gaug) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...

[@kevingraves7431]

Nice. Simple. Affordable. And most important... effective. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us new to the art. Oh... and... Sub. :)

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

Thanks so much for the kind words, Kevin. Great to have you around!

[@عاوزافهمليهكدا]

ممتاز

[@Jumpman67]

I need to make a zero clearance insert for my new table saw.

[@KarthiKeyan-gl1eh]

How to adjust degree bro

[@Tigerratcat]

What happens if you do a mitre cut? Doesn’t it destroy the fence?

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

yeah, it's only meant for 90 degree cuts. It just pops out for every other cut.

[@michaelbradford4444]

You see no need to cut bevels or angles ?

[@jasonlam8945]

What blade are you using / do you recommend? How many teeth?

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

I use a Freud 60T blade, but less expensive blades work just fine in a miter saw...you just might have a bit more tear out.

[@LifewithLewy]

So essentially you are using this as a chop saw then? Because If you miter or bevel your cuts will change...

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

It will open them up a little bit more but they'll still be close to zero clearance.

[@md8744]

Why do we have to make zero clearance most people doing that!!!! Could you explain more?

[@OutoftheWoodwork]

It prevents smaller pieces from falling into the opening making a safer cut and prevents tear-out. I go into this more in my miter saw video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpSwZ3mYmMR_prc

[@mattd8222]

I need one for my saw. If I am not paying attention and a piece of scrap falls in there it can go flying when you plunge the blade.

[@timehealthfit1891]

Your perspective is refreshing, want to be youtube friends?