Mitsubishi Outlander Trailer Wiring

WARNING... DIRTY CAR!
In this video I walk through how I installed the trailer wiring on my 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander GT. This will apply to the 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 and 2013 Outlander. This may apply to the Peugeot 4007 and Citroën C-Crosser as they are the same chassis.
I'm not a licensed mechanic (it should be obvious) so this video is a reflection of my experience only.
The site I bought the used harness at is www.car-part.com This is NOT a paid promotion.

[@glenbreeding2819]

I have 09 outlander it’s been a incredibly reliable car just bought a trailer and hooking up lights thanks for the info great video

[@MrQuispamgolfer]

On my 2012 Outlander dealing with the connector in the engine compartment was the hardest part. It was tucked under LH headlight and much toward front of car. Not much free wires to play with, had to pull it out of the wire loom so that use can grab it with 2 hands to remove the protective cap. The back connector is plug and play.

[@Fabiii_____]

Hey! Is the whole thing just plugged in and done? nothing needs to be programmed in the vehicle? Greetings!

[@birdcam2024]

Nice! I just purchased a 2013 Mitsubishi RVR SE and will be adding this @ a later date, Eazy/Peazy.

[@blaginnt]

Thanks Its wonderful

[@zgcdaniel]

Hello! Very good installation video ! Thank you. If you can help me, I've installed the entire harness, but I dont recieved the front harness to baterry. Can you tell me, from that 4 pins which one I need to connect to battery ? Thank you very much !

[@azzir325]

Just did a 2023. Try to buy one of those plug and play harness. For some reason, they don't make one. The one they list as for the regular Outlander has bare wires that must be spliced behind the tail light. I mistakenly bought the one for the Outlander Sport, and those plugs don't fit. Since the one for the Outlander required splices, I just cut the ends off the one I had (for the Sport) and made the splices.

[@germanpickle]

If you're in Canada, the Outlander Sport is known as the RVR, which is a different vehicle. Glad you got it to work.

[@irabarker2546]

If one these plugs come unplug can it mess up the right tail light?

[@germanpickle]

shouldnt i dont believe they are on the same circuit

[@hunterknudtson5213]

What year outlander?

[@germanpickle]

this will apply from 2007 - 2013

[@aurelian0104]

​@@germanpickle phew also? Kind regards!

[@QUIX4U]

Absolutely ZERO help. I cannot see there, where you have connected the REVERSING (back-up) circuit wiring to the existing harness, nor where you have found a "permanent" (always on) power wire that is required to connect aux relays for trailer wiring that does NOT COMPLY with the vehicle's Can-Bus system, nor is there any way for me to see how you have lifted up - the other circuit feeders I need, to have any night lights (tail/turn/reverse etc.) to remain LIT "on the trailer" when the key has been removed and the steering locked, as at present EVERY SINGLE VEHICLE LIGHT - depowers whenever the key is removed / steering locked as happens when a vehicle towing a trailer comes upon an emergency scene, requiring the driver to 'leave' their UNLIT vehicle - with just the car's hazard lights LIT yet they are completely hidden by any LARGE BOX TRAILER - rendering the combination utterly invisible - to anyone approaching from the rear. To me - having no way to keep emergency lights "lit & operational" when the car must be left (locked) is tantamount to having your now totally unseen and invisible vehicle becoming it's own potential hazard - at night - as there is NO WAY that i will leave my vehicle unlocked, keys in it, JUST to keep the trailer hitch wiring powered, whilst i am away from it, helping anyone disabled ahead of my vehicle. Why? Because - to keep my vehicle LIT (to be seen from behind when a trailer is being towed) the KEYLOCK must be left in "key on" position (unlocked) with the fob in the vehicle. Securing the car (and trailer) - from theft when left on it's own, means I have to COMPLETELY DARKEN the rear of the trailer - as nothing stays lit, when the key is removed from the car. Taking the fob out of the vehicle - turns all trailer lights off. I need to install my own 6 way trailer wiring (via a normal 7pin plug/socket) wiring harness, that is powered full time via a direct lead from the battery through a relay set - (with it's relay signals taken from the light circuits to remain lit) - to ensure that BOTH the tail lights / brake lights AND the turn/hazard lights STAY LIT - even when the car is stopped, parked and key fob removed / doors locked - as at present - the trailer becomes its own unlit hazard - with nothing remaining lit - as soon as the driver leaves the vehicle parked at the roadside - at night. ATTENDING to anyone else's crashed vehicle - or road accident -is impossible to do - if a "driver alone" has to leave their own vehicle unlocked (key in & keylock turned on) !!!!!!!