Mitusbishi 4G Eclipse Transmission Repair of Input Shaft Bearing

2:10 - Replacement of input shaft bearings on both ends
6:40 - Replacement of oil seals
9:10 - Installing geartrain/shift forks
10:48 - Case/shift control assembly
13:40 - Shows ratio between clutch input and differential output.
This 2.4L 4G69 5 speed Eclipse has a common failure of the input shaft bearing on the 1st gear end. This is also a common failure in Honda Civic transmissions as well. It's hard to say if these and the Honda units are defective, because any failure I've seen on these bearings if from drivers who are frequently accelerate in first gear at full throttle. This car had a decent sounding intake on it and it's obvious this is somebody's traffic light race car.
For the same reason that you accelerate the most rapidly (torque multiplication due to very high gear ratio) in first gear, that bearing on the input shaft gets the most force pushing against it. The output shaft bearing right that's also right next to 1st gear doesn't see nearly as much wear because during that pressure they both see in a 1st gear pull, the output shaft is turning with road speed (slow) and the input shaft is at engine RPM (winding up to 6,000). Same pressure but 4x the speed = way faster wear.
I apologize that this video isn't better, especially towards the end. I'm a flat rate tech using KZbin video editor and I have all kinds of interference while I'm recording and don't have time to redo things if things are happening that need to be cut out.
Comments are encouraged and questions will be answered.

[@MrNuggetface]

You fixed that like a boss. Nice.

[@Fopeano]

MK, I was just watching this and remembering that this guy came back 2 years later with the diff on this trans blown apart putting holes in the case. I put a used trans in it and that's the last time I've seen it. The Boss is a savage. I wonder what car he's destroying nowadays...

[@iyamcanadian3055]

Hey, I just want to say that i really appreciate the time and effort you put into this and answering some of the comments. I will be working on this over the holidays so hopefully i will finished it by new years. Thanks again!

[@Fopeano]

+Iyam Canadian I appreciate you taking a moment to thank me. KZbin helped me get into transmission work, and it's fun to give something back when I'm in a position to do so.

[@KsHoOt3r7]

Found all part numbers to make things easier for everyone... -Input Shaft Bearings(front & rear): 2526A001 & MD717670 -Input Shaft Oil Seal: MD741818 -Axle Seal(x2): MD755526 -Cap,M/T Case Seal: MD746157 -Input Shaft Bearing Retainer Plate: MD747282 -3 Qts M/T Fluid I used "partsouq.com" to find all the parts accurately for my vehicle specifically. Best thing to do it enter your VIN after choosing Mitsubishi because if not then you'll have to know the frame, model , and modification designation number which can get complicated. But after, you'll be able to find any part on your car from around the world. It also shows substitution part numbers so you can see what other parts work too, if they're available.

[@KsHoOt3r7]

Also, if you really wanted Step-By-Step Instructions and Specifications you can got here: www.scribd.com/doc/130115371/F5M42-Transmission-Service-Manual but the video pretty much covers it..

[@blakewrigley4133]

Hey man was this for the 2.4.? If so could you give me the Vin/Frame you used.? My 2000 was swapped from a 3.0 to a 2.4. I need the Clutch release sleeve for the throw out bearing ( part the throw out bearing slides on ) It's been the biggest pain trying to find it, ANY help on what it may be called and where I can find it would be SUPPER! Thank you.!

[@mk4derek]

is the kia or hyundai one compatible?

[@braydonholbrook2992]

I know it’s been 7 years since you posted this, but this website is awesome.

[@andrewnormore7093]

7 years ago and this link still works. I love u.

[@FuQ-x1r]

I think you forgot the middle bolt on the retaining clip? Ffwd to 11:25 Any tips on how to get the snap ring snapped back into place? The one under the plug that the book says to stab with a common screw driver. I'm stuck asf.

[@Fopeano]

11:25 flipped over because of groove worn in the side that's supposed to face the bearing. When the case is back together, stick a pry bar into the square hole with the 6 bolt cover and pry that shaft up towards that cap you punctured. It will lift the bearing with the groove so that ring catches it.

[@briandietz2807]

Did this guy's reply work to get that bearing snapped into the clip?

[@Fopeano]

Just an update, this transmission came back! It's been gone approximately 50k since I rebuilt it, and it came it with a seriously slipping clutch and major tranny fluid leakage. It turned out that the work I did in this video is still good. It turned out that it broke a couple teeth off one of the differential spider gears, and those teeth went loose around in the diff housing and poked a few holes in it. A new video is in the works...

[@iyamcanadian3055]

+Fopeano Looking forward to your video. I am in the process of assembling mine. I opened the transmission case and found most gears intact, the only thing I decided to replace was the input shaft bearing. Should i also replace the 3 oil seals? oh and Would you be able to show us a full assembly of this F5M42? Thanks again!!

[@Fopeano]

+Iyam Canadian You should always replace the 3 oil seals, and preferably the sealing cap in the end of the tranny that you pry out to get at that output shaft bearing circlip. As far as a full assembly video, I can't really do that because of the duty cycle limitations of my cameras and the fact that I take these videos during live jobs and I can't lose much time for filming. Feel free to ask about something that wasn't shown in this video.

[@iyamcanadian3055]

+Fopeano I have the replacement sealing cap already. I took your advice and removed the 3 oil seals (2 differential oil seals and one input shaft oil seal) But I can't find them anywhere online to order them. Do you know their part number? In regards to assembling, don't worry about it. I completely understand. It is still a big help that you put these on youtube for us amateurs. Appreciate your time and effort!!

[@Fopeano]

Iyam Canadian I can get the part numbers tomorrow and will post them here for you. You will likely have to order them from a Mitsubishi dealer.

[@iyamcanadian3055]

+Fopeano Thank you so much!!! I will drive to the next city with a mitsubishi dealership to get it tomorrow. I will also be getting the gear oil from them tomorrow. I tried to get the Redline MTL but couldn't find it anywhere here so I will be getting the Diaqueen one from the dealer.

[@garymartin8185]

Great video 👍👌😃 a technician that just to the job while cam rollin. Great job tech guy.

[@gmm689]

Happen to have a link as to where I can order the input bearing?

[@ladywave]

How much would you say the cost is for transmission rebuild on this particular car. 2006 eclipse GT

[@liliarobles6965]

I have a 2006 manual Eclipse GT, i was told that we don't have a pilot bearing?? Can the grinding noise when the clutch is not pressed in be the input shaft bearings? I had Clutch replaced , throwout bearing replaced and flywheel resurfaced but still have the grinding noise

[@Fopeano]

Yes, that is likely your grinding noise. I'm also guessing that it is louder the lower gear you are in and quietest in 5th. And Yes there is no pilot bearing in your car.

[@89Mirageman]

Did the input shaft have noticeable play before you replaced the bearings or was the car just making a noise?

[@Fopeano]

It still drove and made very bad noise. When I got the trans out, the input shaft had obvious play, but maybe not as much as one would think. Still enough slop to chew up the middle of the shaft seal.

[@89Mirageman]

@@Fopeano I pulled one from an 02 Lancer today and it has between 1/16" & 1/8" of play. Hoping it's just the bearing. We'll see.

[@ominousynth]

Couple of questions, took my trans apart and replaced both sides of input shaft bearing, new retainer. I didn't lock tight the retainer bolts but they are good and tight FSM didn't mention lock tite. The diff I just set in like you did, made sure no binding and assembled. Did I need to do anything special with the diff? I keep reading about preload but I am not sure what that refers to, It just kind of floats in there.

[@Fopeano]

You don't need threadlocking compound on anything. Wouldn't hurt, but not needed on that retainer plate. The diff is fine just being set in there like that. There is a shim behind one of the bearing outer races, but you always re-use the same one unless the case has been replaced. Changing those shims is how you adjust preload in this case. Transmission shims are always specific to the case castings, which have manufacturing variances. The bearings and internal hard parts are always the same size, so you don't need to re-shim when you replace bearings/gears/shafts/etc. Based on your info, you're all good 👌

[@spardadmon5236]

Hello! I have a 2007 Eclipse GT 6 speed manual. When the car idles there is this ticking sound coming from the engine bay and can be heard on the inside as well. When i step on the clutch the noise goes away. Also in gear and rolling when put in neutral the noise is faster and slows dwn after a bit. It can also be heard while in gear i think. Any idea on what this could be?

[@pauleyman]

did you forget to bolt down the plate above the bearing?

[@Fopeano]

+Paul P Not on this one! I did once put the bolts for that plate in but not tighten them. It took a while but once they fell out, the car was fine except in reverse when the input shaft would be pulled out a little and make some gear clashing noises. Obviously I fixed it for free and replaced the plate and bolts which got pretty chewed up. That comeback has been fixed fine for a few years now without a problem.

[@jameshughes131]

in the video it shows you sealing the case before putting in bolts for the bearing horseshoe retainer.

[@jongonegone1262]

well done. nice of you to help out others.

[@Fopeano]

Thanks 👍, I try when I know that nobody else has done a video on something I can do.

[@gregskuza7166]

Great Video! I may have to do this job myself because of all the problems I have encountered with the local mechanic that supposed to fix my transmission and at the same time put my clutch in but he said the transmission is good and just replace the clutch which I provided but I just took the car back to notice that the input shaft bearing is even louder now plus I get a throbbing noise coming from clutch/transmission and I kick myself that I didn’t do the work myself as I got billed for 16hours just for clutch change and the guy started work before contacting me with the estimate and charged me $1800 CAD and I supplied brand new clutch. Now he wants for me to pay him for transmission removal and fixing the input shaft bearing although he had transmission out already when doing the clutch. I’m afraid to hack to them as the noise coming from the transmission is much worst and really bad under acceleration under 2k rpm then it goes away but I went to another mechanic and he said that he put a statoscope and he is sure that the noise is coming form inside the trainy (after clutch replacement) and these people want to replace the whole transmission for $2k now. I don’t know what to think anymore. This car is in a very good condition but it’s not worth to invest so much money for $1800 they should replace the input shaft bearing and put a new clutch while doing it. Sorry for long post but all of my gears shift very good so I don’t think that I need a new transmission, the clutch was a Clutch Master FX250 and some people posted that the clutch springs are loud/bad from the factory and this could be the additional noise which goes away over 2k rpm but also then the car is slowing from 4K to 1500rpms there is a noticeable noise as well. I would appreciate your thoughts about it! Thanks, Greg

[@Fopeano]

The way you describe the noise as both horrible, and most noticable in lower gears and lower RPM, indicates that it's the input shaft bearing shown destroyed in the beginning of this video. 1st gear is closest to that bearing and 5th is the farthest away. In 1st and 2nd, you naturally let up on the throttle as you increase RPM, applying less load to that bearing right as engine noise gets loud enough to start drowning it out. 16 hours of labor to do that clutch is criminal. Never deal with that shop again. 16 hours for 1800 CAD is also a pretty cheap door labor rate, so that would also indicate that the shops workmanship isn't extremely valuable.

[@gregskuza7166]

@@Fopeano thanks for your help. I have to make a decision to what I’m going to do now. I have no problem shifting into all 6 gears and reverse so I don’t think I need a transmission replacement and that transmission will have the old input shaft bearing and as you mentioned these go out on those transmissions regularly. I don’t have much experience with transmissions but thanks to your video I should be able to replace the bearing and put it all back together hopefully. I will also check the clutch, from your experience, could the clutch disk springs cause noise problem? The clutch is brand new but I just want to make sure to eliminate whatever I can once I take it apart. Thanks again!!!

[@Fopeano]

@@gregskuza7166 Let me clarify that this video and pattern failure applies to the 5 speed 4 cylinder models, as noted in the description. Yours certainly may need bearings, but yours is a Aisin-Warner transmission where this is a MMNA in-house developed unit that is different in several minor ways.

[@gregskuza7166]

@@Fopeano thank you for reminder, I’ll keep that in mind and do some additional research before I take it apart

[@thomaskang6071]

@@gregskuza7166Hey, I’m currently experiencing a similar problem with my 4G 2.4 L eclipse, and I was wondering if you’ve had any luck with this? I’ve had a slight oil drip from the bell housing, and clutch slips awfully bad. Also that horrifying rattling below 2k. I’m hoping I’ve caught the problem before too much damage was done!

[@KsHoOt3r7]

Would you by any chance be able to tell me a list of things you replaced/recommend replacing for this job? Just want to make sure I'll be getting everything to do the job correctly.

[@KsHoOt3r7]

Also, would your recommend to rebuild it, such as synchros?

[@Fopeano]

both input shaft bearings, input shaft oil seal, both axle seals, the rubber clad sealing cap that's on the end of the case (you have to remove/damage it to release the output shaft bearing), and 3 quarts of fluid. If it's very noisy or you really beat the piss out of it, you may want to replace the input shaft bearing retainer plate (the piece with 3 holes that is flipped over when I reassemble). I've not seen one of these transmissions with worn out synchros, so I wouldn't get into that unless you're having grinding problems or just want to do it for fun. Once it's apart, measuring synchronizer clearance is pretty straightforward if you want to be sure of their condition.

[@marctronixx]

@13:40, is the reason there are springs on the clutch is to "Dampen" the connection when the clutch comes in contact with the gears?

[@Fopeano]

+Marc Abernathy Essentially yes, although it's not technically correct to say "the clutch comes in contact with the gears. The clutch mechanism is the link between engine and transmission, and exists mostly as a way to disconnect the engine from the trans (which is what happens when a clutch pedal is pushed). The springs are there to make it easier to operate the clutch smoothly. They are also there to absorb shock when the powertrain is jerked back and forth (like when abruptly stabbing at and lifting off the throttle), as the main area that deals with that shock is the actual interaction point between teeth inside the transmission.

[@marctronixx]

again makes perfect sense! i do apologize if i am asking /bothering you with these questions, but as i have mentioned, i like to learn about things and your videos are simple and visibly pleasing to see and understand, and you seem like a cool guy so.. :)

[@Fopeano]

***** If your comments were a bother, I would simply ignore them like is common on KZbin. I don't grow my channel aggressively because I like that I'm not overwhelmed by the whole thing. I have huge investment in my tools and career, and I do this on the side for fun and the satisfaction of passing my wisdom along to folks just like you.

[@marctronixx]

well it is much much much appreciated! If I were not into film,music, and television production (24+ years) i think i would have been a career mechanic. I was a firefighter for 10 years and i picked up a lot of mechanical things from that era of my life , and ive always been fascinated by transmissions and engines overall... again i appreciate your videos and knowledge. look forward to the next installment. I dig that you also keep up with "zeitgeist" information. KZbin is something else... ;-)

[@Fopeano]

***** Yes it is. Keep in mind that the single most useful trait of a successful mechanic is that one does not deny reality. I also found your playlist of xtranorma discussions about the filming business amusing l

[@thisisntmyceiling]

My input shaft bearing has gone bad, I lack the tools to do it myself and am trying to find a mechanic to do it. I was curious how much did you charge for this? I've been told by a few mechanics that I need to replace my transmission .... they said the job is too diffuclt and time consuming.

[@richardearocho-caban6010]

I have the same issue with the bearings on my Eclipse 2006 3.8 v6. This is the 6speed trans or the 5speed?

[@Fopeano]

This is the 5 speed that came on the 4 cylinder. It's a Mitsubishi-made trans. Your 6 speed is similar in theory, but it's made by Aisin-Warner and is slightly more complex. I've never opened one of those, so I can't offer any specific advice on that transmission.

[@mikeybear716]

Are the differential bearing cups suppose to be able to spin in the case? They go in tight no side to side play but I'm able to spin them once they are seated.

[@Fopeano]

Yes, that is a normal condition even though it seems like they should not be like that.

[@mikeybear716]

Thanks so much!

[@EagleTalonSystems]

Do you let the sealant cure before tightening down? like hand tighten the bolts wait an hour then torque to spec? or did you just skip it for the control housing because it sits above the oil level?

[@Fopeano]

I sealed the control housing, but just with a thin bead as always. There's no reason to overdo the RTV because excess will just squeeze out and make a mess. When assembling parts with RTV like that, you tighten it properly as soon as possible so whatever squeeze-out happens before it cures at all. Then you just let it dry. Really good grey RTV like I use, which has a certain smell to it that identifies it, can be put into service and hold oil even before it dries if necessary. It will still dry and not leak if assembled properly.

[@EagleTalonSystems]

Thanks for the info, I used Permatex Ultra Grey. i used a thin bead and let it a few minutes just so it got a bit tacky, and mated the two together and torqued it down to 25 ft pounds letting it set for a 30 minutes and torqued it the rest of the way to 38 ft pounds. Not sure how good or bad it was doing it this way. but it worked and hasn't leaked and has been working flawlessly for the past 2500 miles. Thank you so much for your video.

[@Fopeano]

Thank you for sharing your sealant, assembly method, and results for others to see. People get to this video because they need to know how to make a DIY fix, and all actual experiences are helpful.

[@marshelglidden1734]

I have a question for you @Fopeano. I have an 06 2.4 eclipse 5 speed that had the same issue. I've replaced the input shaft bearing and the bearing opposite on the other shaft.I closed up the tranny and reinstalled it, only to discover that my 5th and reverse gears make an awful grinding noise. I've since dropped the tranny again to have a look at the shafts, and closed it up once more and reinstalled it. Based on what I could see, the shafts were slightly out of alignment causing gears that don't normally interact to rub against eachother. A small hum when the transmission is spinning in neutral seemed to confirm this. Despite removing and realigning the shafts and putting it all back together twice now, the problem persists. Have you encountered this at all? Any tips? I really don't want to pull the tranny a third time. I'm running out of steam.

[@Fopeano]

I'm understanding that you also replaced the bearing that has the snap ring groove in it? If that bearing or it's snap ring is not installed correctly, it will not locate the output shaft correctly as it is solely responsible for controlling endplay on the output shaft.

[@marshelglidden1734]

@@Fopeano I did replace that bearing, but the output shaft is rock solid. Doesn't move at all. I took off the reverse gear cover while the tranny was still in the car and was fiddling with the two shafts, trying to pull them into alignment with a crowbar. I did manage to get them more or less in line, but discovered that under power, when shifting, it's actually the input shaft that moves around. At this point my best guess is that is what's causing me grief.

[@marshelglidden1734]

@@Fopeano I think I just figured it out. When I first went to split the case, I went in without knowing about that retaining clip. I tried to spread the case without pulling it. I bent the 3 bolt hold down for the input shaft bearing. It's not longer flat, it's cup shaped. I just assumed that was normal. I now think it must be the cause for the shaft's movement, because the input shaft moves but the output shaft is rock solid. I'll order one tomorrow, fingers crossed that'll do the trick

[@Fopeano]

@@marshelglidden1734 That's definitely a problem. Sounds like it will be fixed soon.

[@blue_lancer_es]

@@marshelglidden1734 so was that ypur problem?

[@jlast01eclipse9]

where can i get these bearings do you have a part number?

[@Fopeano]

All the part numbers and a lot of advice are in the comments below.

[@uknodebo3092]

What would cause my driver side wheel to lock put my passenger side spins good. Replaced cv hub and it spins but locks

[@marcossantiago5323]

Great video! Can someone please help me where can i purchase this bearing??

[@tientrinh6906]

Where did you get the input shaft bearing seal? I’m having a hard time. Thanks

[@Fopeano]

A dealer parts department. If you have nobody local, call 518-373-4100 with a credit card and the last 8 of your VIN and ask for Rich in Parts. He will be able to get anything you need and mail it to you.

[@soccer1404]

around 6:40 where the bearing beat up the case did you just place the new bearing in or did you fix that surface area

[@Fopeano]

+Hilario Lopez I just placed the bearing in. The damage to the case was from the movement of the inner race and balls/cage. It was very lucky that the ridge where the outer race sat was the nicest area left. It ended up being located very well after flipping the retaining plate over and installing it.

[@marshelglidden1734]

@@Fopeano I'm seeing this and thinking maybe I put that retaining plate in backwards, giving the input shaft too much play..

[@fullmetalrising20]

Was wondering if the output shaft inner or outter race bearings are recommended for replacement as well or do you think they will be just fine to leave alone?

[@Fopeano]

You're fine to leave the output shaft bearings alone. Just make sure to clean out the open roller bearing in the case. I've never had a problem with or replaced either of those bearings.

[@fullmetalrising20]

Okay, so the parts finally came in today...and it just so happened that I happened to be driving it today, and I made a complete stop on a very steep hill...knowing my shaft bearing is grinding worse then ever, and when I went to take off up the hill I I noticed my clutch slipped a bit and started to sound like a squeel and then I started smelling gear oil...sure enough I'm leaving gear oil out of the bell housing at a considerable rate...could I have put so much of a strain on the already badly damaged bearing that I tore the input shaft seal that bad? It still drives, but you can hear the squeel from the oil being sprayed around the pressure plate and all...am I right in assuming this is simply the input shaft seal that has taken a massive amount of damage?

[@Fopeano]

You're assumption is right, and as long as you have a new seal to put in, it will be fine. The only difference between you and this customer is that you were trying to baby it but put it in a position where it was going to be strained a huge amount, while the owner of this transmission in known to drive abusively as a habit. Look at it like this: At 3:00 I tried to just hit the bearing off with a hammer in a way that would have worked fine on a bearing that is in proper working order, but it blew apart. The less extreme version of that, when it's still installed in the case, was what happened to yours and to the transmission in this video. With the cage blown apart, the balls can group together and allow a massive deflection of the shaft. It just all the rest of the things the shaft is connected to that keep it from literally falling apart.

[@fullmetalrising20]

Okay, and yes I have the seal, I'll be pulling it this coming week, until then iv taken it off the road...one more question, since it's gotten to this point, every time I shift into 4th gear and give it any gas pressure it slips back into neutral...no grinding or warning, it goes into 4th fine, and stays there on straight roads and downhill...but the moment the engine flexes it pops back into neutral...is this also the cause of the bearing causing excessive shaft play?

[@Fopeano]

That is almost surely a result of the shaft moving around too much. These transmissions have no history of gear, synchro, shift fork, or shift control problems.

[@cmdghost1]

great video very detailed. but ive noticed that you installed the return spring of the output shaft wrong or is that gearbox diferent from older models?

[@Fopeano]

+The5Niggaz What time in the video was that? I'll have to look closer at what you're referring to.

[@cmdghost1]

+Fopeano at 12:23

[@drogo20]

ok ,the symptoms are? noise pressing the clutch? or realising it? i need to know please.:)

[@Fopeano]

It will be noisy at idle until you press the clutch pedal down, then it be quiet a moment later until you let the pedal back up. There will also be noticeable noise when accelerating in 1st/2nd gear, and it will be quieter in the higher gears when cruising.

[@drogo20]

the sound its like the engine internals? not on the top ..like the botom or something?

[@pauleyman]

look around 14:00. there looks to a bolt missing and that bearing retainer is upside down. you put the case on with no bolt on that plate in the foreground. you can see the other two in the background.

[@Fopeano]

+Paul P See how the side of the plate facing up has a large channel ground out of it? That was deep enough that the new bearing could walk around enough to make noise. Because I was not able to wait for a replacement part, I had to make it work by flipping it over so the smooth side faced the bearing. I could only use the 2 bolts because the piece is asymmetrical, but I used thread locker on both of the bolts as a bit of insurance. This trans has been out for 2 years now and the guy beats the piss out of it, so it definitely worked fine. I thought about drilling out the plate for the 3rd bolt, but flat-rating it with nobody willing to pay for dealing with it, the flat-rate compromise has to be made.

[@shawnboy4368]

Can you fix my transmission ?!I have that same car and just leaks gear oil

[@Mr23435]

Same problem with my 2004 ralliart 4g69. Noise goes away when clutch is in.

[@DACLB]

Hello, can someone help me please? I have a 2006 Lancer Ralliart and the transmission sounds a lot. I went to many junk cars and I only got a 4th generation eclipse with the same 4g69 engine. Will the transmission work for my Lancer Ralliart? I checked the code and the one on the eclipse starts with KF5M422V5P and the one on my lancer starts with F5M422R795. Will it work for you?

[@Fopeano]

Probably not, but I've heard this talked of before. If you reply to this comment, I'll ask some people tomorrow.

[@DACLB]

@@Fopeano Please ask, help me, I appreciate it very much🙌🙏

[@DACLB]

@@Fopeano ????

[@victordl62]

hi I have a 2007 eclipse automatic I want to change the transmisión to manual but I cant find it do you know what other transmision can I use insted its a 2.4 liter thanks

[@Fopeano]

Did some research, and apparently the only only other 4G69 car that came with a stick shift was the 04-06 Lancer Ralliart. There may be other older 4cyl cars that came with a manual trans that fits the 4G69, but that's what I could come up with.

[@victordl62]

Fopeano thank you really

[@tomaszbartoszek902]

I need a list of bearings for eclipse 4g 3.8 2007 6 gears

[@adrianarabelpereztrevino4464]

hi, i have this problem with my tranmission, do you know how can identify what tranmission i have,my eclipse have the engine 3.8 gt but the tranmission only have 5 five speeds + reverse , sorry for my english

[@Fopeano]

In what Country was the car originally sold?

[@adrianarabelpereztrevino4464]

Usa, but i bought in mexico, i live on the border mexico- usa

[@adrianarabelpereztrevino4464]

I would really appreciate your help, thanks for uploading the video

[@Fopeano]

Did some research, but didn't find anything (but found much in Spanish I can't read). US 3.8L had a 6spd manual built by Aisin-Warner. The US 4 cyls had the transmission in this video, built by Mitusbishi. I couldn't find information about a 5spd 3.8L. The bellhousing bolt pattern is quite different between 4cyl and 6cyl.

[@adrianarabelpereztrevino4464]

do you have an email? to send you photos of my tranmission?

[@TheBiggles654]

Hey im doing this on my 4G right now. I have the transmission out of the car but I can't seem to split the transmission to get inside. Any ideas?

[@Fopeano]

There are really only 2 hangups here. If it's that you can't break the seal between the 2 case halves, that can be a bitch. I usually use 2 large prybars with the bends meeting each other to make kind of a spreading pliers out of the two of them. It's normal for the case to be a stubborn split, just don't get impatient. Walk it around the 3 spots designed to pry the case apart from. If you have the case split but it won't pull away, then it's the circlip under the big rubber-clad plug at the narrow end of the tranny. You pry that out and spread the clip under it to release the shaft bearing from the case. You punch a hole in it (with a lot of force) and then use the hole to pry it out. It's meant to be replaced, but you can cover the hole you make in it with the same grey silicone gasket you use on the case, and put it back in if you don't have a new one. 

[@TheBiggles654]

I've pried open the clip, but it still doesn't seem to be coming apart.

[@TheBiggles654]

I'm spreading the clip and trying to push it out the bottom but the shaft isn't moving. I sent you an email with a picture. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

[@Fopeano]

TheBiggles654 In the picture you sent, the clip looks like it's open all the way and up out of the groove in the output shaft bearing. I'm thinking that the problem is that the areas around the dowel pins are corroded. It takes about 5mm of gap between the case halves before the dowels are all the way out, and they can be stubborn. If the gear case is loose (and I mean loose like clanging and flopping around) from the bellhousing and that clip is like that and it still won't come apart, I haven't seen that before. I've had it a few times where the case split enough to get that clip free but it still wasn't coming apart because of the dowels being stuck pretty good.

[@TheBiggles654]

I got it open. Do you recommend replacing all the bearings or can I make do with just the input shaft bearing?

[@4G18SOHC]

is there an overhaul kit for this transmission? or bearing kit?

[@Fopeano]

See comments below, it's all been covered.

[@4G18SOHC]

www.americanpowertrainwarehouse.com/f5m42-transmission-rebuild-kit-fits-00-03-mitsubishi-eclipse-01-dodge-stratus-2-4l/

[@4G18SOHC]

what do you think about that kit

[@EagleTalonSystems]

Do not use this site, i just tried ordering this and found out the company no longer exists... but they are more than happy to take your money.

[@davidandrewbarns6524]

Hey my bearing wont snap in on the top c clip. What do i do to make the output shaft clear?

[@Fopeano]

If you're talking about the c lips shown at 2:15 and 3:35, then the bearings are not pressed all the way onto the shaft. As I'm hammering them on the last bit, you can see me using the clips to check and make sure they're on far enough for it to fit cleanly in the groove. If the bearing is absolutely as far on the shaft as it can go and the clip doesn't fit in the groove, something is either the wrong size or mutilated.

[@davidandrewbarns6524]

No im talking about the c clip thats in the gear housing. It clips onto the output shaft bearing where theres a bearing seal on the outside. Ive done everything up to 11:48 and the gears are rubbing on the final drive and output shaft bottom gear.

[@Fopeano]

With that, you stick a prybar into the open window where the steel plate bolts over and lift the output shaft up so that the ring land in the bearing comes up to let the ring snap in. It's too heavy and awkward to do try and lift it up by hand even though it feel like you probably should be able to do it.

[@davidandrewbarns6524]

@@Fopeano is there any way you could make a video showing how to do that?

[@Fopeano]

@@davidandrewbarns6524 Not looking good for that. For some reason, I can't find my raw footage on this video. So I'll try to say it more clearly. I'm talking about the 5" or so square hole with the black steel plate that covers it. With the bellhousing facing down, you want to insert the prybar into that hold and get the end of the prybar under one of the gears on the output shaft. Then, using the bottom edge of the square hole as your prying fulcrum, lift the output shaft up fully into the housing with the captured snap ring so that the ring can capture the groove on the bearing. It usually snaps in most of the way on it's own and needs to be fully snugged down with a pair of needlenose pliers.

[@jlast01eclipse9]

where can i get the rebuild kit for this transmission

[@Fopeano]

I don't know that there is a kit available for this. I've always replaced the failed parts individually. I've never had one with anything other than bearing problems, and I've done 6 of these.

[@letsroll2463]

is this only common for the 4 cylinders? cause i never heard any problems with the v6 GT transmissions including mines and im over 100k smooth. Your videos are well made, youve earned my sub!

[@Fopeano]

Thanks, Roller. This is just a 4 cylinder pattern failure, the 4 cylinder using a Mitsubishi transmission. The V6 has a Aisin Warner transmission that doesn't seem to have any pattern failures, not that there are tons of them out there like the 4 cyl. In 7 years with Mitsu, I've seen one with a leaking shift control seal and maybe one bearing problem but I'm not sure if I'm remembering that correctly.

[@emilayala5077]

Sir very very nice job were is yours shop?? Us???

[@fullmetalrising20]

Alright, so I know someone posted a site on these comments that I used over a year ago to get these part numbers, now where did it go??

[@Fopeano]

Your comment prompted me to watch this video for the first time in a while and I really enjoyed it. I can't find the list of part numbers comment either. I remember it being there like you, but I can't find it and it is what it is. I'll see about getting those part numbers together for you and replying to this post with the list. May take a few days to get to it, as work is busy/hot/humid/disgusting lately, but I got you.

[@fullmetalrising20]

@@Fopeano I appreciate that, I'm actually doing the 6 cylinder model this time, it's the f5m51 instead of the f5m42, but the way it's set up is nearly identical on the outside of the gear box, the bellhousing to the engine is the only part with differences, even the bearings look identical, I'm just looking for the part number for the seals, input bearing, and retainer plate because I know this one's torn up, the last one was too in the f5m42

[@Fopeano]

I've been out sick all weekend, but I would have gotten part numbers for the 4 cylinder trans. So I can get the correct information the first time, what is the exact vehicle you want the parts list for? Last 8 of the VIN is preferred as I can just look it up using the parts VIN decoder and nothing gets lost in translation.

[@fullmetalrising20]

I don't happen to have the Vin on hand, but it's an 03 eclipse GT, manual Trans code is f5m51, engine code is 6g72, I'm currently researching the topic myself but it's taking time...but I understand being sick, I'm not in any hurry, I'm in the U.S. just barely outside the path of this oncoming hurricane Florence on the east coast, so our weather hasn't been very permitting to let me finish this job anyway so take your time, I doubt I'll even have the trans pulled till next week

[@fullmetalrising20]

100955 is the last 6 of my cars VIN

[@thisisntmyceiling]

Also I cant find a input shaft seal anywhere! Where can I get one?!?!

[@Fopeano]

thisisntmyceiling I'd recommend getting all your parts for that job from a mitsu dealer. Both input shaft bearings, both axle seals, input shaft seal, the metal-clad rubber sealing cap on the end of the tranny case that has to be mangled out, and 3 quarts of 75w85 gear oil.

[@thisisntmyceiling]

Fopeano um..what is the metal clad rubber sealing cap called exactly? And how much would I be looking at this cost wise? I had a shop tell me 285 if I got all the parts myself.

[@Fopeano]

thisisntmyceiling They just call it a sealing cap in the parts illustration. The parts are altogether a little over a hundred bucks. The 285 labor sounds cheap enough to be a little worried about it. That's side work pricing, seems too cheap for over the counter in a shop..

[@thisisntmyceiling]

Fopeano Yeah hence why I'm doing more research. Thanks man, how much would you charge me for this service? Just want an estimate to save up to

[@Fopeano]

thisisntmyceiling Even though it's not something I could do on the side, I would charge about $400 (not including parts) if I could do that kind of thing. My work, a Mitsu dealer in NY, charges about $1100 for the job. That's parts and 10-12 hours labor over the counter with a warranty on the work. You're not the first person to tell me recently about disturbingly cheap repair quotes. I don't know if it's that places really desperate for the work, or it's just from places that have very cheap labor and tools.

[@ItsMeGaryG]

The input shaft bearing retainer was put on upside down and missing a bolt. Visible at 11:38.

[@Fopeano]

The side meant to face the bearing had a very deep groove worn in it that would fail to properly locate the bearing. Thread locking compound was used on the 2 bolts that could be installed with it upside down.

[@ItsMeGaryG]

Gotcha.

[@cristophervaldes1622]

beatyfull

[@tomaszbartoszek902]

F6MBA