How to Make Cabinet Door Frames - Rail and Stile Bit Tutorial and Demo

[@BobBrittonBespoke]

I've done a lot of door like this, and when you route the groove first, you'll end up with tearout when you create the tounges. Much better to create your rails and tongues first, then run your grooves for the rest. Also, the rockler sled has a backer piece of wood that will help prevent tearout on creating the tounges so move it flush to the fence with your work piece, that's why it's there.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Great input Bob, thanks for the tips!

[@Mark-in5yw]

I thought these bits came with a bit to do a cut on the outer edges on the doors? I want to get this very set of bits to match the recessed panel doors on my kitchen cabinets. The cabinet doors I have, have an angled cut with a slight "coved" profile.

[@patrickarchuleta9594]

And that backer bird after some use you can change it God bless all who call on the Lord who shed his blood for all Amen praise to The king. Bottom line

[@blakecollie8770]

Never seen the style done first I always thought you do the rails then the styles

[@christiancarfann]

Can you use a 1/4 shank to do cabinet doors?

[@petec6690]

Finally went out and got myself that very router bit set. It's been sitting in my cabinets for - oh - I don't know how long. Today I'm going to grab some scrap and mill it to a consistent dimension and then just throw together a frame just like yours. They say imitation is the most sincere gratitude. Thanks.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Nice! This setup has turned out to be a great investment and I’ve used this several times since this video. Thanks for watching and good luck with your frame builds!

[@IFGCZ]

Thanks for the video it really saved me. I bought the router bit set and started to figure out how to use by myself. I was already about to throw it out of window :) Now I can keep it and use it.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Glad the video was helpful, thanks for watching and your feedback!

[@keithwilliamson236]

Great tutorial. Easy to understand for a beginner.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Keith!

[@keithwilliamson236]

I have the Ogee rail and stile router bit set. Im confused on which set up jig to order from your description list. Would it be 91991 stile and rail or 40431 shaker stile and rail? @@mmcc_woodshop6288

[@onemanup7895]

thanks for the video, just bought a set of these to make the doors in my campervan !!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Excellent! Thanks for watching and enjoy your build with them!

[@maceo2012]

Cool video. Thank you. I sometimes find the skinny back cracks easily when inserting the panel.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for the feedback! It can help to leave the pieces wider to prevent cracking (if possible). I’ve run into that issue a few times myself

[@naturalmystics-kd9vt]

This is the best video I ever seen about door making thank you

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@reicoll9501]

A rarely comment a video, but I appreciate how well and detailed you explained everything, i hope your channel grow up fast

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for the feedback and for watching!

[@thomascraycraft3087]

😅😅😅😅😅😊😅😅😊😊😊😊😊😊😊​@@mmcc_woodshop6288

[@angelarowlands3231]

That’s a great instructional video and very well presented. Thanks for posting.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Angela!

[@josephperez7995]

Great job of explaining step by step and the reason why .. love it

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks! Glad it was helpful!

[@archiejoseph6681]

very good explanation it's clear my mind Thank you.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Archie! 👍🏻

[@GK-qz3cm]

Thanks for the great video. I am preparing to venture into making my first shaker bevel frames. I got the Rockler 40431 router bit with the template.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Nice, glad the video was helpful and good luck with the frames!

[@fernandovelasquez7883]

Excellent video, very clear and precise instruction, and now time to work on my new doors! Keep this great videos going as you are a pretty good instructor! Have a blessed day!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Fernando!

[@LayZeeDawg]

I've just realized why I love shaker doors

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

They’re the best! 👍🏻

[@jerrychaisson9308]

Great tutorial Matt just what i need to start making my own shaker doors my kitchen cabinets"!!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks! Glad the video was helpful!

[@Cam-wi3tp]

great video, thank you, I did this last year when I saw the cost of doors, I needed 9 doors! The savings from 1 door almost paid for the bit. The bits are expensive if you get a good quality, which I recommend. I used finger jointed boards. Also use a sacrificial board next to the one you are cutting to help with tear out. The plastic guide was a huge help and I saved back a couple wood pieces as back ups.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for the feedback and tips Cam! You're right about that - crazy expensive for the set of bits but a $$ saver in the long run if you have to make multiple frames!

[@adeelbaig8708]

Very comprehensive very useful I am new in woodworking And you have another subscriber and thats me, hope I'll learn much more from you

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for the feedback and for watching!

[@rickfrench786]

Outstanding explanation and demonstration! Most helpful. Thank you!!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Rick!

[@dlf43338]

Only comment I have is you need a backer for the end grain cut, this will prevent tearout. Good instructions and all the links to the tools used.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks! Yes, backer board is necessary for sure 👍🏻

[@andykrask3184]

you could do end cuts first then your long cuts to clean up the copes.

[@Ninoy2059]

Thank you. Well detailed explanation. Job well done.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

You’re welcome and thanks for watching!

[@BZ1340]

Great vid. My issue I like to use 3/8 panels and leave 1/8 backside reveals so I get the 1/4 inch front side shaker look on 3/4 stock

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks! Thats a great idea, thanks for sharing your input!

[@TimBilanzich]

Great idea, going to try it

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Tim! 👍🏻

[@alvincorbett3545]

Great video. Simple and straight to the point. Question, can i use my small palm router to do this?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks! I’m fairly certain it’s only supposed to be done on a router table or shaper. The bits are 1/2” collet as well so I’m not sure if they would fit a small compact router.

[@landjwilk]

This is very helpful. Thank you.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Glad it was helpful!

[@AndyCarnegie]

Great video. I would cut the end grain first so you can remove any breakout when you do the second cuts

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks! Great tip and thanks for sharing!

[@chrismoore7569]

Clear and informative video, thank you for posting this. I am planning to make my own in frame kitchen this summer and am currently learning how to do this and what tools are required. Without people like yourself I would not know where to start. Will need to invest in expensive tools but I am sure they will pay for themselves over time on other project and with my self satisfaction 😀

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for the input Chris! I agree that tools and a set up can be expensive but the ROI on these tools can be huge if you build and sell multiple projects, or use it for home use 👍🏻

[@marct2124]

Great video, thanks for sharing! Cheers

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Marc!

[@ACDoesIt247]

How did you make those set-up blocks? Genius!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

The set up block is from Rockler, they have serval profiles available (make sure you select the correct one if ordering) that are only about $10 a piece 👍🏻

[@josearango8838]

Thanks for your help I need help with this job

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

You’re welcome, thanks for watching!

[@rabwilson6974]

Fantastic instructional video! I feel like I'm watching one of those wood magazine style vids, but better. Have you ever thought to do more vids like this?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Rab! I’d definitely like to do more for sure, just have to figure out what to demo next!

[@nathanganim7431]

Excellent video

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Nathan!

[@waltmooredanwilson8754]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. Take care and God Bless.

[@davidndahura7437]

Beautiful work ❤

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks David!

[@naturalmystics-kd9vt]

Thank you so much for this video

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

You’re welcome, thanks for watching!

[@sandiegodan]

I missed how you knew the rough cut dimensions of the rails in order to get the door width you wanted. Does the router bit set tell you how much to allow for the tongue and groove depth? Also, is there a good way to determine the dimensions of the door panel or do you just measure it after the cuts are made?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Yes, the tongue on these bits is 3/8” inset. So you’d need to add an extra 3/4” (3/8” on each side) to the pieces that include the tongue 👍🏻

[@scottthompson7916]

Great Video. Where did you purchase your setup block?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks! I got it from Rockler’s website. If you grab one, just make sure it matches the profile of the router bits you have/get - there are multiple different options.

[@frankcherry3810]

So sweet. I already have the Jig, but not the plastic block. Where can i get?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Here’s the link, just make sure you get the right block that matches the profile of your bits www.rockler.com/router-bit-set-up-jigs-rail-and-stile-bits

[@davidboston4574]

Amazing video

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks David!

[@johnjaconsky4488]

Ok I tried again and this time I did 3passes taking a little more material each time. Success! So I’m thinking that this is what I get for buying my bits at Harbor freight and I should maybe invest a little more money in a quality style and rail bit set. What do you think?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Nice! Router bits are expensive but I think they are worth the price. I try to always use Freud bits. I think I'm more terrified of using a cheaper bit at 10,000 - 15,000 rpm.

[@johnjaconsky4488]

@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Ok thanks for the tips

[@ScarletCarsonDoll]

is there any "hand tool" to do this? instead of the table one

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Not that I’m aware of, I think a router table or shaper is the only way this can be done

[@shofarsogood7504]

There is. It’s called a moulding plane.

[@chrisweidtgolf]

Where did you get? Find or make that setup block you used for the setup on the bit? That white clear piece. Thanks!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Here’s the link, you need to select the model piece that matches the router bits you’re using. www.rockler.com/router-bit-set-up-jigs-rail-and-stile-bits

[@VientoNegro284]

Excelentes videos.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks!

[@Juniorjohn9152]

Good job brother

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Yaseen!

[@jeffbarneycastle9739]

Hello, i watch your video it showed me how to make shaker doors . Can you tell me what the item number is on the router bits so i can buy a set. Thank you

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

It’s item #92013 on Rockler’s website

[@patrickarchuleta9594]

Who did you purchase the coping sled and is it affordable.God bless you and your family outstanding job great attitude

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

It’s from Rockler - check out this link Rockler coping sled: amzn.to/3JdvZbj Thanks for watching!

[@tiborpolgar435]

thanks for sharing all the details and Rockler's system. Is there any simple rule of thumb to measure the length of the shorter pieces (stiles?)? This is something I never really managed to figure out... measuring the depth of the groove seems pretty odd and finicky to me :D any better idea?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

The bits (at least this set) are specific to a 3/8” groove, so when measuring the length of the stiles, you’ll want to add 3/4” (3/8” on each side of the stile) to the total length. When you cut the edges out, it cuts a 3/8” groove on each end so the additional 3/4” you added disappears from the overlap 👍🏻

[@tiborpolgar435]

@@mmcc_woodshop6288 that's clear now, thank you for your reply! :)

[@TheCoffeeField]

Can this be done with a portable/compact router

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

No, these bits should only be used in a table. You may be able to use a compact router in a table set up, but it would likely be underpowered for making these cuts.

[@ginoasci]

do you know what a backer-board is for?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Reduces tear out.. should’ve had the scrap board closer to the fence during the cut 👍🏻

[@aaudain1]

Great idea

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Anthony!

[@freedomhomeimprovementsny6506]

Hi. Great video! The link you provided for the set up jog blocks isn't working. Is it possible to update it or give me more info so I can research it?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Here's the new link - I'll update it in the description! www.rockler.com/router-bit-set-up-jigs-rail-and-stile-bits

[@freedomhomeimprovementsny6506]

@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thanks so much for the follow up!

[@tomprovan50]

Nice video thanks

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Tom!

[@oxwilder]

How much longer and wider do you need to make each piece? How do you figure that out?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

The second bit cuts a 3/8” tongue into the frame piece (on each side), so you’ll need to keep the second frame pieces 6/8” longer (3/8” on each side).

[@TrixyLixyStix]

Hi, I have seen vids where they mention that plywood does not match the thickness of the cut as the standard thickness of the ply is not exactly what it is listed as being. Did you find a panel to fit snugly and if so, what thickness was it.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

1/4” plywood fits the groove.. the stuff I had in the video was 5mm, which is a little thinner. I didn’t have any 1/4” at the time of filming

[@jens2763]

Great video. Is your rail & style bit specifically designed to create the decorative inlay or can it be used for a flush square shaker door frame?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks! The set in this video is specific to the decorative inlay trim. Here's a link to a set that would resemble much closer to shaker style! amzn.to/3Q2inTO

[@richardm9550]

What an excellent video. I’m very new to routing tables and this is something that I have wanted to try. This answers so many questions around what is achievable, using which tools and how to do it. Very nicely done. You have a new subscriber! Just one question, did you make that setup block or did it come with the router bit set?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Richard! The set up block is purchased separately, they’re around $10ish.. just make sure you get the correct block that matches the bits you have. There’s a link to the blocks on Rockler’s site in the description!

[@benohsten9323]

Thanks !

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for watching!

[@mickey533]

Bravo!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

👍🏻👍🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻

[@Knardsh]

Did you just make the setup block?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

No, different blocks are available for the specific bits you're using. Here's the link! Set up jig blocks: www.rockler.com/router-bit-set-up-jigs-rail-and-style-bits

[@AAguilar74]

Great video. Mic is to sensitive to background noises.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for the feedback, I’ll aim to improve that in future videos 👍🏻

[@biggreg100]

I make my end cuts first because of blow out. Then do my side cuts.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Nice tip, thanks for sharing!

[@scottdutton7160]

I’ll buy you a coffee if you tell me what attachment (and where you got it) you are using for your festool dust collector in this video? Thanks!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Hey Scott, it's literally just the 36mm festool hose wedged down into the dust port on the router table - no special attachment. Here's the links to the hose, and the router table (you have to buy the router table accessory kit separately - the dust chute comes in the accessory kit. Dust hose: amzn.to/481i6cl Router table & accessory kit: www.rockler.com/complete-basic-router-table-kit-with-accessory-kit?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwio6XBhCMARIsAC0u9aHFkIgOKw2qMP-8nDvjofbcvcor2h1apQ8rnKkPlwc5B2Jppnomty0aAq7gEALw_wcB

[@casenundra78]

when inserting a bit into the router, first bottom out the bit. Then pull the bit out a tiny bit so that the bit is not bottomed out. Then tighten the bit. This is a safety procedure to prevent bit ejection during use if and when the bit heats up. BTW Don't forget to set the router speed to about 18,000 RPM.

[@mattschreiber4251]

Consider feather boards on both the fence and the bed of your router table. Much safer and much more uniform results.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Great tips! Thanks for the input!

[@johnjaconsky4488]

OK first of all I am just starting out in this woodworking hobby so I set up my bit that you call a that cuts the notch with the bearing just flush with the fence however the wood is getting burned so I moved the fence towards me as to make a smaller cut , same result The cut looks good wood is burned. Router speed is about 10000 rpm I was cutting maple. Any advice would be appreciated thanks much love your videos J

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

I would make sure your bits are sharp, clean, and that your feed rate isn't too fast!

[@brianduggan8739]

Where is the description list?

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Hey Brian, what are you specifically looking for? The bits/tools are listed down in the description - if you’re looking for something else let me know and I’ll add details!

[@stacysmith7250]

Good video but What do you mean the panel may need to be thicker ? I used every thing here and it cut 1/4" groove but 1/4" panel is not 1/4" thick how do you fill the gap to stop the wobble? Glue just runs out and makes a mess.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks Stacy! I didn’t have any 1/4” panel when I made this video - the panel I had was 5mm (a little thinner than 1/4”) so I was just trying to point out that you’d need to use a thicker panel than the scrap piece I had 👍🏻

[@TheTranq]

You didn't use the sacrificial board on the coping sled as intended

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Yep, I should’ve had the backer board all the way up against the fence

[@TheTranq]

@@mmcc_woodshop6288 I’m using the Freud shaker bits for the first time, they’re slightly different from the rockler but hopefully can get these doors made

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Those should work similarly! Good luck and hope it turns out well!

[@MrLocke-bk3om]

The problem with these bits is that the groove the Rockler bits cuts is way too thick for a 1/4” thick interior panel to fit inside of without being too loose. You even mention at the end of the video “that would need to be a little thicker so that it doesn’t wobble around”.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

The panel I had/was referring to was a piece of 5mm ply. The actual 1/4” panels fit perfectly in the grooves from these bits 👍🏻

[@kylegomolka8598]

@@mmcc_woodshop6288 real 1/4 inch ply is hard to find so I am looking for router. Bits for plywood thickness. Hard to find that in something with a shaker profile.

[@ak-rx1ui]

The band-aid on his finger makes him authentic. He put his finger where the cutter was. (No offense, I have done it many times.😅)

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Haha, I think I had a small cut on my finger from something non-woodworking related.

[@w9jim]

I like this setup, but adding up all the parts comes to about $1,200. That's a good chunk of change for a hobbyist woodworker, although I am about ready to build all new kitchen cabinets and doors. This would certainly make things easier and faster.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Hey Jim! I agree 100% Everything I have in this setup has been kinda of a 'one tool at a time' purchase. I've used the router table and lift quite a bit in the past but am new to the bits and coping sled (for this video anyway). It definitely makes the process easy to build them!

[@davidndahura7437]

1200 dollars you can own, a shaper but you need a router table for some tasks personally am confused about the investment the bits looks to be used up quickly yet they are expensive.

[@jayhyde7987]

I got a skil router table an router for 200 an cmt bits for 50$ cheap enough works great

[@ChefKevinRiese]

You forgot the backer board to prevent blowouts!

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Yep, I did. Thanks for the heads up 👍🏻

[@ChefKevinRiese]

Dont feel bad. I just did the same thing TWICE!@@mmcc_woodshop6288

[@jamsheerkk2428]

Wawww

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

👍🏻👍🏻

[@DMS20231]

That backer board needs to be up against the fence. Its sole purpose is to be directly behind the end of your rail to prevent tear out. The way you have it set up (pulled back an inch or two), it might as well not even be there. It’s not doing anything at all. And… why do those bits even have bearings on them? They aren’t doing anything.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for your input and pointing that out 👍🏻

[@Vincent_de_Paul]

Sir, what happened to your finger? 😢

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Just a small cut from something completely unrelated to this video. Finger is all good!

[@samiadel7043]

🎉❤🎉

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

👍🏻👍🏻

[@matthewhoheisel4840]

What if you don’t have set up block. Spoiled

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Here’s the link to the set up blocks, they’re relatively inexpensive. Just make sure you get exact block that matches the bits

[@pat199rick6]

Here's a tip. Do your tendon cuts first.

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Cool tip 👍🏻👍🏻

[@pat199rick4]

@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thank you. Also, when you cut the tenons, put a sacrificial at the back of the cut. That way, you should get less spelching. As long as you don't move the sacrificial fence. It should be ok for all your cuts. Good luck!

[@jeffbarneycastle9739]

Hello,

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

It’s item #92013 on Rockler’s website

[@patrickarchuleta9594]

You will have chip out if the backer board is not right with your stile.Bottom line God bless

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Thanks for the tips Patrick - you're spot on! I've since adjusted that backed board for any future cuts

[@martincampos5883]

@@mmcc_woodshop6288 what do you mean could you elaborate? Sorry I’m a concrete worker trying to learn

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

When the bit gets to the end of the board the part that gets cut will tear/chip out. If you place another sacrificial board up against the end of the board you’re cutting it will prevent tear out and leave a clean profile on the end.

[@dwpalme2670]

That router table is a pos

[@mmcc_woodshop6288]

Okay 👍🏻