MOARstruder Large 3D Printer Extruder on a Lulzbot TAZ6 | James Bruton

[@spork861]

Quite artistic and very satisfying to watch it print.

[@reggiep75]

I know nothing about 3D printing or the in's and out's but it's sure interesting to see someone else work with the medium. I guess I just appreciate skill across the whole design and construction spectrum.

[@shavono8402]

that extruder beats normal extruders in every field except detail, which is an acceptable trade-off. very cool.

[@66thorder]

Nice! Just received my Taz 5 and I was planning on doing some large projects that would take forever. Now I know what to buy next. Thanks. Keep up the good work.

[@charlesforbin6937]

You've come along way James......Cheers

[@azyfloof]

The closeup of the MOARstruded part looks amazing! It'd make a great lamp shade :D

[@essemcee]

You’ve got an awfully wobbly table there robotman! Thanks for the tips on the OHAI part of Lolzbot site

[@SlothWolfen]

love the extremely scientific testing method :P

[@nagualdesign]

Hehe.. More of a demonstration than a test :-) A good one, as it turned out.

[@stevenqneuk8]

Nice one James. I've been messing around with the E3D Volcano for a while and the layer bonding is so much stronger. I have found that the quality of 90 degree corners suffer once the nozzle size goes above 0.8mm but the reduction in print time and the increase in the part strength more than make up for it.

[@WannabeSpaceman]

That Taulman T-glase is such a nice filament.

[@Designandrew]

James OHAI is "Oh Hi!" It's an internet jargon

[@deano9018]

thanks for this vid I always thought 3D prints ended up being brittle due to layering, good to know it depends on the material and extruder.

[@bluesquadron593]

Wow, this was surprisingly result.

[@jon_raymond]

Great and informative video. Does the extruder stepper get hot running at the faster speeds for the moarstrudder?

[@KaltatheNobleMind]

ooh, wonder if one could make a dual extruder that does different nozzle sizes instead of colors. like the small nozzle is for detail work while the big one is for more simple shapes if I make sense. like it draws out the detail lines first and then lays out the big nozzle for reinforced core. I know Lego builders use such a technique for their dioramas. use standard system bricks on the outside but have the bigger but completely compatible Duplo bricks for the core so it saves on brick budget by using fewer pieces to fill space and I think they are equally sturdy.

[@djspeeddemon]

Great video! Wish I had a MOARstruder type mod for my Flashforge Creator Pro. Thanks for the comparisons as well

[@Imaboss8ball]

Tallpirate Val Titan/volcano extruder from e3d. which btw seems that lulzbot used the e3d design

[@patprop74]

Nice to see a company that supplies it print heads with proper size motors! James is that you playing the guitar on the outro of your video's ?

[@Dosbomber]

I wonder if you could make a slurry of PVA glue and water (kind of like the old acetone and ABS slurry) as a print bed adhesive using wood glue and water, since wood glue is also PVA. Rather than using a glue stick, which is harder to find, and from my experience, tends to be difficult to apply evenly.

[@AcrimoniousMirth]

I use PVA wash on my bed. Had to half the concentration in fact as parts ended up chipping the bed and pulling off the glass!

[@russkiyraketa2621]

Introducing the MOARMOAR Extruder with a 3mm nozzle size!

[@LeeJackson01]

When I first saw the thumbnail for this episode, I thought you were creating musculature for your Ultron robot. Oh well.Good episode anyway.

[@nagualdesign]

Instead of using automated in-fills, it would be interesting to see the strength of a piece built like a box girder by design, depending on which direction the load was to be applied.

[@Designandrew]

when I saw this extruder I immediately thought of you haha

[@KyleKatarn145]

... I had no idea they had instructions on how to build your own TAZ Printers... it's probably a SUPER complicated process, even with the instructions, but this is still interesting...

[@StevenIngram]

The durability is impressive. Can't wait to see what happens when the moarstruder meets the colorfabb HT. :)

[@grayem76]

can you print a jet fan for the hacksmith

[@chaz65]

hahaha I wish, right?

[@dr.hurculeezb.pussyfiend9377]

Thats a good point actually, since the hacksmith tried to make a fan blade and it shattered easily, perhaps the new thicker and stronger layer bonding with this MOARstruder will work better? And since James has 1000x more experience with 3D printing you might be able to work something out?

[@chaz65]

We did see that the bonding strength was increased dramatically so it is possible that the Morestrudder would make it possible for the blades to reach a higher velocity. Not to mention they do already have a relationship.

[@Fiifufu]

This

[@qwerty1998ish]

The Hacksmith said in a video that James already offered to print them some edf parts in various materials.

[@KenColangelo]

Great video!

[@pittmann2010]

The only issue I see with the strength test is the in-fill. the one on the moarstruder appeared to have a higher in-fill percentage. Were both prints set to the same in-fill? was it that the thicker extrusions filled the body more?

[@smilley792]

What happens to the real iron man arm project? Waiting patiently for an Update but it's been a while.

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

I have Taz 6, and Cura has ABS settings.

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

***** I see. I hope they will update Cura to fix that.

[@noahblau8767]

how is the red filament called?? it looks awesome

[@Veptis]

it looks really awesome. it a 1,2mm nozzle? and you are using 1,75mm filament for it?

[@TheDrover15]

"smack smack Smack SMACK SMACKSMACKSMACKSMACKSMACK" "ah there we go" LOL XD had a good laugh

[@wyomingoutdoors]

What would you suggest for filament for a Taz 6 if I were to print quadcopter (drone) frames? IT has to be tough to handle the pressures of flying (motors). I have the stock single extruder that came with the unit. I've been using ABS and PLA. A suggestion for using the stock nozzle and setup would be greatly appreciated.

[@wyomingoutdoors]

Thank you.

[@dguy-xk4fc]

Thought it was just 1 screw, replace it out the screw back. But there is more to it. Flashing firmware adjusting stuff... hmmm how cool would it be if they loaded a rfid chip on it and the machine knows which head is used and adjust the firmware to another profile... like having a series of 'lulzbot compatible plug and play extruders'. A lot more people would buy them then if it would be so hassle free. Maybe one day..

[@XYZAidan]

Very nice! It's cool to see Lulzbot making this into a commercial add-on. I made a video recently using a 2mm nozzle and found many of the same results.

[@pablovargas6598]

you are awesome dude

[@TheRandomSpectator]

Can Cura be used with other printers, or is it proprietary to Lulzbot? Because I am a member of a club at school that has a 3d printer, but the program that it works with is functional, but terrible, and when we first got the printer we tried to look for alternatives.

[@willcall89]

It depends on what printer you have at school. Cura will work with most printers, but not all, some printers (like Makerbot, which you'll frequently find in educational institutions) will only work with proprietary software

[@GALENGODIS]

What was the final print times for each of the towers? :)

[@GALENGODIS]

James Bruton cool! Thanks :)

[@OliveRC-Addict]

maybe with 3M glue in spray

[@SebastiaanSwinkels]

The hammer test is flawed at best, sure you used the same number of shells but the tower printed with the moarstruder is almost solid all the way through, compared to the other tower that was mostly air inside. I'd be interested in seeing the difference between two either solid towers or tower where the shells add up to the same thickness.

[@SebastiaanSwinkels]

I didn't think the finer nozzle would result in a stronger bond / tower. Sure there's more shells but the extrusion is finer and cools much faster than the larger extrusion. I'd say because of the larger extrusion it takes longer to cool down leaving ample time to fill in gaps and adhere to the previous layer before the extrusion is too cold to flow / bond properly.

[@carlosfbarajas7755]

How did you get lulzbot sponsorship ?

[@carlosfbarajas7755]

James Bruton do you think they will sponsor a robotics team

[@carlosfbarajas7755]

Thanks

[@TheGuyWhoDoesEverythingFun]

What type of bed is that?

[@TheGuyWhoDoesEverythingFun]

Nvm, I didn't watch far enough ahead. Sorry.

[@rtron2012]

10:48 i see les infill and less walls than 11:02 may be i'm wrong ......

[@Ruyet2000]

MAKE BAYMAX PLEASE! FOR PIT SAKE PLEASE!

[@LK-ul6rf]

Hey the Printer pls

[@lachlanjohnson8019]

nice

[@BayJRox]

Good job man keep up the good work👍 btw I have something you might be interested in

[@sandylancaster5901]

i should of read the posts 6 time longer

[@m4x1mus2155]

Why aren't you using a buildtack instead of a gluestick? reduces cost by buying gluesticks:P

[@Chris-jo1zr]

I'm sure that 50p glue stick really takes the edge off the massive cost of filament this thing burns through.

[@ryansmudama]

Ads?

[@JamesClutterbuck]

Why haven't you upgraded to Windows 10?

[@ladarkilneta]

make fnaf animatronics pls :b

[@sandylancaster5901]

half the time thats mad

[@generico366]

Those prints look hideous. I think I'll stick with smaller extruders.

[@generico366]

***** I'm aware, but for the purposes I'd use 3D prints for I need my prints to be smooth. Maybe by applying some acetone you could get rid of the bumpy surface without sacrificing print strength? How do you think that would work? What would the merits of that be?

[@spencergeorge4941]

Bas van de Kleut if you need high quality finish, you're right. Smaller nozzle diameters will be the way to go. However, this is for high output, low tolerance rapid prototyping where a few bumps are better than hours of print time

[@supersentaisteveakas.s.s7750]

Lame