Monarch 10EE Lathe Refurb part 25

Hi Folks, so back from my trip and spent a few hours over the July 4th weekend getting back on the Monarch. This video is the compound cleanup and install.

[@jamesallen3799]

Thank you for your series. Today my 10EE ran for the first time in 15 years. This all because of this series. I then took the electrical panel off the back and tomorrow I will continue prep for painting. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for this series. I do have an oil leak from the front of the spindle. A phone call to Sydney in the morning. Jim

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Wow James, I really appreciate your comment! I hope the techs at monarch can help!

[@Aeroeng92]

Nice work. I’m truly amazed at the quality of thought, design and engineering that went into theses machines. Thanks again for sharing this rebuild.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi Mark and thanks for tuning into the video!

[@bid6413]

Kevin, Good to see you. I missed your 10ee refurbishing videos. Happy to see you ground the top surface of your compound. My friend ran mine through his surface grinder because it wasn’t flat either. It’s still got a scar from someone crashing it into the chuck but I’m calling that “character.” Monarch liked to grind precision surfaces. I noticed on my lathe that one half of the some of the sliding surfaces had one surface ground and the mating surface scrapped. The bed-way taper attachment was sold on eBay. The seller had done a small run of them in aluminum instead of cast iron. He paid attention to the details; I think he did a great job, including the paint finish. The Monarch design probably should have been more robust. I’ve heard people break them often by forgetting to not leave them clamped to the bed when not in use. I remove mine when I’m not using the taper attachment for that reason. I know lash isn’t desirable but I’m not sure it really matters too much. Even Moore Jig borers required acknowledging lash exists and suggested best practices always required counting movement on the dial only when it was under pressure. Thanks to your example, like Jim, I’ve been putting time in on my 10ee and am making gradual progress. Currently waiting for a shipment of parts, mostly bearing nut lock washers, gaskets and felt seals, to arrive so I can keep moving forward. You’ve been an inspiration! I’m really curious about the gearbox noise. Did you have a chance to speak with a Monarch tech? Kevin, thanks again for a wonderful series. Cheers, Will

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi Will and thank you for the very kind words! I truly appreciate it! So you're probably right on the backlash. At the end of the day, probably doesn't matter all that much. As far as the gear noise, I'm a bit torn. I removed the cover on my other 10ee and ran it in threading mode and off camera, it's not significantly quieter that the current project My plan at the moment is to complete everything and go back to the gear noise I'll check bearings, tighten up the backlash and give it a good once over. I'll run it with the cover on and then make a decision to either dig deeper or let it go.

[@bid6413]

@@fourpondsshop7940Sounds like a good plan. It will get your lathe in operation and the gear noise can be addressed later. Still think a discussion with a Monarch Tech will be in order at some point… then you can tell me whether to worry about any gear noise I hear when my lathe’s running. I have every confidence in you determining the right way to proceed. These machines are very well made, but they weren’t a perfect design and maybe the gear noise is something we all just live with. If replacing all the gears and bearings is the solution it won’t be a cheap date. Keep your videos coming! Thanks Kevin. Cheers, Will

[@flipndoris]

Well done Another tidy, professional job done. Welcome back.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thank! Glad to be back! My 10ee was suffering from separation anxiety more than my dogs!

[@pauldepilotpaul]

Glad to see you back!

[@fourpondsshop7940]

It's great to be back home! Reentry was harder than I thought to get back at the 10ee project because of all the other stuff going on! I'm determined to finish this project with no "I'll get back to it later" issues.

[@ronkellis769]

Good deal showing the stiff Woodruff key. I put my compound together just before a move and knew I needed to revisit it. Looked up 10EE compounds and here I am. Pretty sure you pointed out my issue. Just an FYI if there is a next time. Without the wing clamp installed, you can slide the collar part way on and there is sufficient clearance to put in the plug, screw in the wing clamp, and then slide the collar the rest of the way on. Just a little less juggling.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks!!

[@robertpearson8798]

I dropped a tiny half-moon woodruff in my shop once and I’ve come to the conclusion that somewhere on my shop floor is a tiny wormhole into an alternate universe.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Yes Robert... So true! It's unbelievable how easy it is to fat finger a small part only to find its way to the machinists parallel universe!

[@outsidescrewball]

Enjoyed the video…nice work!

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thank you Chuck! I've enjoyed your last few videos as well.

[@Anotherhomeshopguy]

Nice work as always!! Welcome back!

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Glad to be back and looking forward to wrapping up the project and cutting some metal!

[@mikepelelo5657]

As usual, some very nice work. I was glad to see you cleaned up the top and sides on that compound; it really looks nice. But I was holding my breath while you were taking that thing apart. With all those little pieces and parts sitting on the edge of that table I was sure they were all going to go flying with the slightest wrong move. If that had been me, I would still be crawling around on the shop floor looking for stuff!

[@fourpondsshop7940]

I know it looks precarious in the videos but that table has a nice lip all around so nothing falls off! When I was watching the video, I was surprised how clumsy the disassembly process looked... I'm finding it a challenge to position the camera for a good view and still have access to work on the parts! Hopefully I'll figure it out!

[@BillyHardcase]

Hey man happy to see you back in action. Any news on the electrical issues? and on the gears in the head of the machine?

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi Lars! Thanks for checking in! So I haven't had a chance to revisit the electrical or gears but it's on the list! Hopefully in the next week or two

[@m2salmon665]

Your refurb of the thread selector and other label plates looks great, did you paint black then sand through to expose the base metal? I agree with you the gear noise is accumulated wear from decades of use. When loaded up it takes out the backlash and most of the rattle goes away. Doesn’t seem worth the expense to replace the gears. Earmuffs during threading would be a lot cheaper

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Yes, I painted the entire part then used some fine sandpaper on a flat block and sanded it to shine up the raised lettering. I agree that replacing all the gears really doesn't make sense. In person, it's not as loud as it appears in the videos. The machine also works great and I get a great finish so its time to just use the machine and make parts!

[@Charlieman.]

Did you use the surface grinder on the saddle top as well as the compound? Or did you use your mill and some kind of surfacing tool for the saddle? They certainly look spectacular.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi and thanks for watching! So I used my milling machine with a new very sharp 4 flute carbide end mill. I was surprised how good it came out too! The saddle was too big for the surface grinder

[@kimber1958]

I love your brother but everything hitting that metal table is driving me bonkers

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Ha! That made me laugh! Yes the clanking metal is annoying but truth be told, it sounds much worse in the videos than real life!

[@reilleysinventions4155]

How do you set the backlash in the two ball bearings? That will add to the total backlash and should be adjustable to almost zero.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

So I'm not sure. I don't know if you can adjust the preload on those flat bearings. It doesn't look like you can but I could be missing something. What I can see is any gap between the two dials.... When you load it up or back it out. I tried to see what size feeler gauge I can get in there and the smallest I have is. 001" and it doesn't fit. The only other obvious cause could be either the nut or leadscrew or both. Any suggestions would certainly be appreciated!

[@reilleysinventions4155]

@@fourpondsshop7940 You could measure the slop in the bearings seperately by mounting your indicator on the compound body and the indicator tip on the center of the screw that holds the crank in place.