Delboy's Garage, "Aluminium Thread Repair" ?

Can you fill a hole with Alu-Rod, and then drill and Tap it?
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[@roberthayes5037]

This is exactly what I was looking for to fix a striped bolt on a aluminum intake manifold . Thanks for the video.

[@manniefresh7354]

How'd it work out for you? Currently have this situation

[@dennisrobinson8008]

@@manniefresh7354 It works. I had a broken bolt hole on a aluminum block. It "only" needs to hold 45 ft-lb. I was able to correct by using this technique with harbor freight "alumiweld" rods. I was able to test it up to 55 ft-lb without issue. This was on a M10x1.5 hole.

[@kirbytabor9956]

@@dennisrobinson8008 Thanks this is just what i needed to hear👍👍👍👍👍

[@itruns]

Mr Hayes, I have the same situation, I think. I busted a bolt off in my head and have a mess. Can you help?

[@nutkickermotioncontrol8238]

I like how you not just highlight the things this stuff CAN do, but also mention the use cases that it CANNOT do. And I also like that you used a torque wrench to get reliable, objective data. Thumbs up!

[@dennisrobinson8008]

For someone wanting to fix a broken bolt hole in aluminum that simply cannot be drilled to the next size, they have a workable solution.

[@mikef-gi2dg]

Now when you take into consideration what and where you are using this...this was a very useful demonstration. If the threaded failure torque was say 20% higher than the normal use torque, then you are PROBABLY good for everything but critical failure parts.

[@mrdomo1949]

Wow - You've convinced me. I'll be buying some of those rods soon!

[@judsonl8990]

Considering the threads I need to repair are where the points mount on my Ironhead, I'm gonna call this good enough! Thanks for the in-depth video man. Super helpful.

[@fishingandflying8266]

I have used these rods to fix nicks in my aluminum props (works awesome) and to fix a split in an aluminum small sail boat mast over 6 years ago and still going strong. These rods are a great tool to have in the tool box for sure

[@pk-teia6249]

Hello Del and thank you so much for a great channel! Thought I'd share a little tip I lerned while working in the ship building industry. While drilling and making threads in aluminium or other soft metals we know that sometimes the swarf will smear and not break clean off. We end up with a shitty looking hole...excuse the pun ;) Try using denatured alcohol as a lubricant instead of oil. That will help the swarf break off cleaner and you are less likely to get smearing of the hole or threads.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you Per, a buddy of mine has suggested the same lubricant too.. i was using plain old WD40 for cutting with this one, a good 'second row' option i understand.. as i paraffin apparently.?

[@ronanrogers4127]

Interesting. Good demonstration. Whether it might fail in use due to greater hardness is purely hypothetical unless it’s tested. I think the point of failure in use might just as likely be where the new material joins the original material, rather than the original material itself failing through vibration...but we don’t know!

[@matthewsellers82]

I suspect from Delboy's perspective cautioning against the use on critical components is a hedge against any liability in the event of failure

[@michaelbrinks8089]

The 3 biggest mistakes people make when using those rods are #1 Not properly scuffing the surface to remove oxidation with a clean stainless steel brush #2 Not welding right away after scuffing (the aluminum starts to oxidize in seconds after it's scuffed up #3 Using the flame to melt rod, instead of heating the part/getting the part hot enough so that it melts the rod when the rod touches the hot part. You use the same heating technique as you would when you join copper pipe with solder. You get the copper hot enough that it melts the solder when the solder is touched to it. If you try & melt the solder with the torch, it won't stick. I tested the rods, welding a 1/2 inch aluminum tube to a flat piece & the welded joint was actually stronger.

[@Moonfleet41]

Using the 'copper soldering method' is commonly advised as the technique for this... but in actual practice it's not that easy, copper melts almost 400c hotter then alluminium, and when ive used this for ally sheet it's really easy to melt the actually sheet metal at the same time.... the difference between the rod melt and the job its self melting is a very narrow 200c... and you have no colour changes as with steel to help you know it's hot enough... ""You're heating the rod not the job"" is the biggest criticism.. and usually made by those who have never tried this (Theory experts), so i would urge anyone to try this for yourself, it's pretty tricky to get right and not much room for error ! as im sure you found when you tried it.!

[@paulharast1958]

Live and learn and thanks for the input. You and Penny have A Wonderful Weekend and Ride Safely and stay warm.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you Paul, Good to hear from you Sir, have a great weekend too, and keep safe.. D&Pxx

[@paullacey748]

Perfect instructions just what I needed to know

[@kirbytabor9956]

Hobart and Blue Deamon seem to be holding up👍 You really should use a better quality rod 👍👍👍

[@Fubar365]

Ooooohhhhh the tension.....pun intended.very Interesting Del,I love a ghetto fix,but like you said right place right time.

[@itruns]

Made an error getting a busted bolt out of carb boot/manifold. Left part of the bolt and ez-out tool that busted off in the head as well. Tried to drill and tap through, and the drill went sideways enough that the hole was too close to the head's edge. A mess! I have to fill the hole, but it will be part of the area refilled will be part if the retapped area. Was thinking fill it with silver solder or what you did, but I feel like I have one more chance, and I need experience before I destroy this.

[@jimb1783]

Good test Del. I was impressed with the "repair" and fully agree with your comments. In its place, ideal, in tight spot i'd use it! Jim

[@Moonfleet41]

Hey Jim, exactly that mate, I don't think it wold ever replace a proper thread insert, the only time I think it would better it the insert option would be where there's nowhere to drill out in to extra metal (but there usually is)!

[@andrewbirds9618]

This is perfect for old carburettors the bolt holes on the float bowls and diaphragm caps always go, nice easy fix

[@jstoned1]

65-70 nm= 48-52 ft-lb

[@dennisrobinson8008]

That's around what 10mm threaded hole in cast aluminum supports before pulling out.

[@renegade1987]

wow, the thread made from those ally rods did WAY better than i thought it would!

[@Moonfleet41]

Yeah me too !

[@carljones8334]

Very informative and good to know. Carl, just journeying through.

[@LeotsinidisN13]

Intersting test Del! Another video for my virtual toolbox from you! thanks and keep up the good work, we all certainly apprreciate it

[@RenegadesGarage]

Del.. Great demonstration there.. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

[@edheide7229]

I`m not a metallurgist but it appeared as though the welded part was more like cast. Good educational video, Thamks

[@topschrott7112]

Sehr interessanter Test Del, machst sehr gute Arbeit.

[@justplayman5]

1. Perfect alignment is an issue: heavy hard to reach spots 2. This is only for light disassembled parts & turn the part up : easy flat access

[@Moonfleet41]

Both correct sir, it has it's limitations !

[@hhjhj393]

I mean that's a pretty cool magic trick you gotta admit though.

[@rvqx]

If you want to repair a M6 hole, you can use a 1/4 inch BSF bolt. The pitch is the same, but it is slightly thicker.

[@marcokauenhowen773]

Thank you... I have been looking for this way to repair a stripped motorcycle headbolt that was fixed with a thread insert at one point and stripped again...

[@MrBoehol]

Tankyou for the tests with alu-rod. Well done and enjoyable to watch.

[@jessebrown9046]

Awesome video bud! I'm going to use this method for my stripped out cylinder stud and see how it works

[@Moonfleet41]

Good luck Jesse, hope it works for you.

[@marcokauenhowen773]

Hi.. I have the same problem.. Did it work out for you?

[@Anderzander]

What a brilliant video. Thank you.

[@Moonfleet41]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@sharonsharon2604]

Aluminium is annealed by quenching while its very hot. I think that you just let it air cooled slowly, and therefore tempered it. This is why the chipping and torque readings were different. The experiment should have included proper annealing of the piece.

[@baenkt]

Drilling it out to 14 mm sort of defeats the purpose of the test. You wanted to know if you could use this in those cases when drilling out wasn´t an option. Do it again, do it right ;-)

[@kiwidude8931]

Bänkt Olsson agree - I was surprised to see Dellboy do that - fail

[@travisk5589]

Great video. I have a stripped bolt on my rear brake lever on my aluminum framed dirt bike and I am trying to decide between a helicoil or insert repair or filing with aluminum like this video.

[@markmlinar1511]

That last moment when you think, "damn this is done for"

[@aschkansabaghi4901]

I love you my guy! I have been looking for this video for 5 years now!

[@shanco73]

Great video Dell, I thought it was going to let go every time when you got above 50lb, really interesting content. I attended night college a couple of years for a pretty comprehensive welding and brazing course, never got to play with these though, they remind me a bit of brazing, heating the parent metal and adding the filler rod, not quite the same but similar. Thanks Del, love your content!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks mate, appreciate your support, and that course sounds like it was fun.

[@dennisrobinson8008]

I was able to successfully duplicate this test with Harbor freight "alumiweld" rods. I recently got to 55 ft-lb ( 74.5 nm ) and I got a click on the torque wrench. A hole was drilled and tapped for a M10x1.5 threadsert in the area filled by the "alumiweld" rod. I did not go any further.

[@-g.k.4389]

So do they work?

[@-g.k.4389]

I stripped my thermostat housing bolt tried to re tap it but the thread inserts didn't stay in so I tapped up still no luck now I'm left with a oversize bolt hole I was wondering if I can use these rods and then place a thread insert in before it dries up

[@armanozzorluoglu6922]

Very cool experiment. Great demo!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you kindly!

[@iaincochrane9392]

Interesting idea and well demonstrated.

[@Manley2220]

Seeing this made me think and I managed to repair a thread with solder.

[@trkmusicandpeace644]

Nice testing

[@rey-ke5ls]

Really great experiment 👍🏼 A good new thing to know for me👏🏼

[@clivewilliams1406]

Del, a good test but what it showed was that the aluweld is 'AS STRONG AS' the parent material. Your extra torque was not high enough to merit anything else and could be explained by various tolerances in the material/testing equipment/human application/phase of the moon etc. Also, it is wrong to state the the reason for the aluweld strength when it was purely speculation and not proven in any way - all you did there was to degrade your test by association. Leave the results to speak for themselves.

[@clivewilliams1406]

@fart locker In the very first instance I would check that you can't install a thread insert - Heli-coil is best and much stronger than the original thread. If there is no way that the thread insert can be used, say where the hole/boss has broken away from the casing then the only solution is to fill the casing back with a weld material. Due to its low temperature melting point Alumiweld can be considered either as a low temperature aluminium or no better than a high temperature solder. If I had to rely on the Alumiweld then I would fill the hole and drill it out for a Heli-coil to get the very best fixing in the poor metal - I certainly wouldn't solely rely on the threads in Alumiweld, and then look to inserting a stud rather than a bolt to reduce the possibility of the thread failing due to being worked too often. I assume that the stud stripped out the thread due to excessive torque tightening?

[@stevesstuff552]

Posting on Instagram an advert for these brazing/soldering/welding/what-have-you rods came up, and there you were beating seven bells out of a test piece ... a clip from one of your videos. I hope they paid you!

[@Moonfleet41]

Not paid Steve, they stole the footage without consulting us and use it as they please, much the same as many other people on the internet, content thieves are everywhere mate!

[@stevesstuff552]

Delboy's Garage might be worth sending an invoice..

[@dirtymotovation]

I really hope you see this- but if you needed to block off the back of the hole- what would you use?

[@georgeeverett5006]

Another excellent video, Thanks !

[@gerry9359]

Another great video bites the dust . Great insight to to thread repair Del . Cheers

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks Gerry, always good to hear from you mate.

[@colingeer479]

The type of swarf that comes away when this alu-weld is drilled reminds me of brass more than steel, as steel can create long spirals if conditions are perfect. Maybe this indicates it's closer to brass in it's properties? Anyway, interesting test, thanks Delboy.

[@krzaczekwegorz1135]

Great video. Thank You 👍

[@uainttheone]

Now this is what I was searching... Not freaking JB weld not Cooper wire

[@kaylebdunwoodie9079]

I have a zero turn mower hydro gear pump (aluminum housing I believe). The release valve threads (to release hydro release to put in neutral in case of towing or engine problems) have been stripped smooth half way down the threads. Drilling an tapping bigger isnt and option and neither is heli coil inserts ect. I'm wondering if I could heat the entire piece up and partially fill and retread the threads with these brazing rods? Do you think they'd hold a pressurized pump seal? I believe 3000 psi is the max pressure. Or at least that's what the pressure hoses coming off the pump have printed on them.

[@Moonfleet41]

To be honest, i know nothing about such pumps Kayleb, and have only limited experience with high pressure hydraulics. All i would venture to say is "was the stripped thread blown out by pressure or cross threaded by clumsy assembly?".. the answer to that should be enough to decide. With such high pressures it can be obviously dangerous if things like seals are not totally secure to the manufacturer specification... So it's a safety risk and only you can decide if you're willing to take that chance..! I hope that helps you in some way mate. Good luck with it.

[@AzimNaqvi]

Brilliant demonstration!

[@JohnDoe-qg6hm]

I would have liked the 'Brand Name' of the Alu-Rod , Price and Stockists ! Perhaps even a link so you can get some Amazon Affiliate Revenue !!!!

[@assessor1276]

Very interesting Delboy - well done! Just one small correction: there is no such thing as “torque pressure”. Torque means force x distance (hence lb-ft or N-M) while pressure is a force / area (so you get lb per sq. inch, etc.). It may seem like hair-splitting, but incorrect terminology is confusing and spoils the effect of your otherwise excellent work.

[@OGbqze]

Calm down Peter. This isn't rocket science.

[@bigmikeh]

Nice job. I agree, better to drill it out and use helicoil or similar repair. Like how your videos are simple and to the point, your commentary is spot-on, wouldn't mind a bit more as you obviously know what you're doing. Cheers mate!

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Tried it but it doesn't melt like your did? Mine was clumpy like it didn't get hot enough? I used a propane torch used for plumbing. I don't think it puts put enough heat. What kind was yours?

[@Moonfleet41]

Just a regular propane torch like yours, but you do have to heat the job up thoroughly, clumpy means the parent metal isn't hot enough!

[@dennisrobinson8008]

I replicated the test. With Propane or MAPP you have to have the flame close up on the material/hole. It takes 1-6 minutes to heat the material. The rod will flow when you touch it to the material if it's hot enough., Once it's flowing, keep material hot with indirect heat and keep filling the hole with rod. I swirl it around in this hole situation. If it "clumps" it just didn't get hot enough or the flame is melting the rod. The right way is the material or area being corrected needs to have the heat in it to melt the rod. Cleaning the area with brass or stainless steel brushes is super critical.

[@Choober65]

Stronger than the parent metal is a subjective claim. I have aero grade aluminium that is tough as hell. If I want silly strength, I will drill and tap oversized then Helicoil just as you suggested and use thread locker on the Helicoil.

[@Moonfleet41]

Regarding Helicoil, have you ever tried Wurth Time Serts? They're a solid stainless tube that can be red threadlocked in and way stronger than a helicoil, if it's strength you need. Just thought I'd pass it on in case you didn't know, but excuse if you have.

[@user-mr3mf8lo7y]

Great video. I was wondering how the trial be concluded in a heated environment. Say, you have a a very old cylinder head, screw holes stripped, and want to fix with the help of those rods. I would love to see if it could resist 70 or more after heating up the part. Thanks,.

[@dennisrobinson8008]

The test works. I have a recent situation where a 10mm head bolt hole in a block broke and cracked. SImilar to this video I Drilled out over size, filled with Harborfreight "alumiweld" product, drilled and tapped for m10x1.5 - it holds greater than the factory block can hold on the torque wrench test.

[@eaglestrikes1]

Great video, very informative. Thank you Del

[@tinks43]

(P) Love these tests. Great to find out in the real world. Well demonstrated 👍🏻

[@mikef-gi2dg]

Well done "Ghetto FIX" ....perfectly demonstrated, I can use this for light weight non-critical stuff, making light weight stuff, where firing up the TIG, which I don't have yet, is not practical.

[@garyschutz8880]

I doubt that the thread would fail due to brittlness however maybe you could thread the 14mm hole to give the weld material more surface area to hold to the aluminum part.

[@namelesswarrior4760]

Another insightful vid! Thanks

[@graemedernbach6618]

Thank you for introducing me to the Glyme sealer,it is an amaizing result.Chee from Graeme.

[@r1mac681]

Hi mate, enjoyed that every day's a school day, have a great weekend ride safe. 👍 J

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks, You too mate.

[@magnussvensson5304]

Do you think this is one way to repair a Spark plug thread where I can not use an insert? Does the repair stand the heat? It is a small 80cc air cooled Motorcycle.

[@coloradokid1346]

Del, love your test projects you do. You give out very good and sound information after you do your tests. Awesome job.

[@greysonjake9998]

I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a way to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my account password. I love any assistance you can give me

[@hayesdayton2043]

@Greyson Jake Instablaster :)

[@greysonjake9998]

@Hayes Dayton thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@greysonjake9998]

@Hayes Dayton It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D Thank you so much, you saved my account!

[@hayesdayton2043]

@Greyson Jake you are welcome xD

[@paulelverstone8677]

First job I ever did on my first big bike was an oil change. Lefty loosy for the drain bolt but - of course - never figured that the bolt was upside down. Couldn't tell you what the torque value was when I stripped the thread out of my alloy sump but could tell you the amount of expletives that came out of my mouth (it was a lot!). Hope you and Penny have a great Christmas. All the best for the New Year... Elv :o)

[@Moonfleet41]

Hey buddy, good to hear from you.. I think the best way to burn thread direction into our heads is to strip one..specially if its an important one... then you Never do it again.. lol Have good weekend too buddy, Enjoy the holidays..take care.. D&Px

[@rickmarkgraf2617]

Guess you learned your lesson, as we all do. I always view the bolt in my mind' s eye, imagining in advance the direction it needs to turn to tighten or loosen. Never fails me. I do the same when trying to spell a word correctly. I just see it in my mind's eye the way it is in a book, and then read out the letters. I don't know how others do this, but its a trick that never fails me. My wife plays word puzzles, but constantly asks me for spelling. 🙂

[@Moonfleet41]

@@rickmarkgraf2617 One of the reasons why sump plugs are so commonly stripped is that they're just about the only bolt we fit upside down!... think about it, the vast majority of bolts fit downwards and sideways!!

[@rickmarkgraf2617]

@@Moonfleet41 No argument. Just saying that my trick works because a picture works better for me. In my mind, the orientation of the bolt doesnt matter. The bolt is the bolt, and it only turns one way to loosen. Verbal tricks like lefty loosey may complicate. BTW, I learn from, and enjoy your vids. Grateful.

[@Johnnyalzate]

I have drilled to much on my motocycle cyclinder head traying to repair the exhaust. can you advise if I must remove the cyclinder head to apply heat and seal the hole with alum rod ? sorry if my question sounds silly but I want to know if it is safe to do I dont want to blow my head off and cause an explosion. THanks

[@thedeukful]

so satisfying

[@rsbharley4766]

Nice demo Del. Very interesting, another trick in the box mate. Penny and you have a great weekend. Cheers P.S it's 41C here today LOL

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi mate, wow that's hot 41C, you could fry eggs on the pavement, so by contrast, we haven't been out of single figures this month, and they're starting to forecast snow on the hills now! Have a great weekend, keep cool, D&Px

[@alfkey4155]

Hi Del ,, great video , I wonder would these work on cast ,, I have a wood lathe and the tool rest holder ( banjo) has stripped the threads ,, all YT videos I've seen are for inserts where the bolt is tightened and left in,, in my case the bolt is tightened up to hold the tool rest when turning then loosened again say when sanding ,, my apologies for being literal ,, I'm hoping that anyone else reading this could be of help solve my problem ,,.stay safe ,,,. Regards Alf

[@Moonfleet41]

Hey Alf, reading your description, I see what you're saying, and if the part is cast aluminium, then I'd say it's worth a try as after all, now it's stripped it's no use to you anyway, so you have nothing to lose. And as you saw in this test, the cold cured material was actually a little harder to drill than the parent metal, so as long as you don't swing on the thread too hard and snap it again, then it should be ok... like I said, it's worth a try if it's already broken!

[@alfkey4155]

@@Moonfleet41, Thanks , thought it was cast iron, was going to use JB Weld or Fix-it (with powder and CA glue stuff,) till I saw your video, the lathe is only 4 years old (3 year guarantee) , want something more permanent ,, because it's a thro hole I'll have to use some dowel to plug the back,, yes,, think it's goer ,, still as you say nothing to lose,,.Thanks again,,. Regards Alf

[@dennisrobinson8008]

@@alfkey4155 JB weld will only hold 5 ft-lb. It's ok for repair holes and cracks in a casting that doesn't have intense vibrations or heat, but for bolt holes, this method and/or timesert/helicoil/insert will work. The test Delboy's garage show is spot on.

[@metalmaniaxx]

Would you use this for a thermostat housing thread holes that stripped off?

[@Moonfleet41]

As an absolute last resort, whereby you're about to throw the housing away and replace it, then you could give it a try, but if it is in any way still repairable, you'd be better off using a Wurth Time Sert thread repair... you can look them up and buy them online as a little kit, and we have a video on how to fit one if you need it!

[@metalmaniaxx]

@@Moonfleet41 I used helicoil instead.. feels pretty solid. Thanks for the recommendation.

[@billynightmare]

If that pencil was to slip off that piece on the band saw you would lose a couple fingers/knuckles, i have seen it happen, please use something a lot longer or wear cut 5 gloves, apart from that awesome video as usual

[@davidvanniekerk3813]

Baie, baie dankie/ Merci Beaucoup/ Sehr danke Delboy's Garage. This was one of the first video's I've seen form you, same days ago. The drill, tap and toque of the Aluminum have stuck in my mind. Since I've to drill, tap and toque that 8mm ruined head-bolt of the Chinese Gomoto 200cc. I have to know the toque settings. You used a 10mm bolt and you started at 40Nm and at 65Nm it failed. The bolt was about 20mm deep into the Aluminum. OK. An 8mm bolt and 15mm tread will be far less strong than the 10mm x 20mm U used. I was looking all around (Workshop manuals and internet) for the settings or settings of other Aluminum 8mm bolts and head-bolts . It was between 28.8Nm and 58Nm. If I understand it rights and Hilx & Time-Sert can take a bit more toque... Thank you very very much for the video!

[@Moonfleet41]

Remember David that even with a steel insert, it's still only inserted in to aluminium... and whilst the thread on the Timer Sert itself won't fail, you can still rip the insert out of the job... and those torque settings depend on aluminium or steel, an M8 bolt in to aluminium would never be more than about 30Nm... good luck with it my friend.

[@dennisrobinson8008]

Timesert can take a little more torque because the insert itself is the next size up from the bolt it's supporting. So that timesert for the 8mm bolt will screw into 10mm oversize hole. 10mm bolt holes support somewhere between 40-50 ft-lb in aluminum. At 50ft-lb (67nm) and over it's going to strip almost every time, just like on this video test.

[@springy-2112]

love it , it's definately got its uses .. ok like you say not for critical applications but still very handy. 👍🏻☮❤ btw thanks again for the SATB promotion must have been on the herbal backy when i recorded that one ! (just kidding officer!) 😲🎶

[@Moonfleet41]

You're most welcome brother, it's an honour to help, take care, keep warm and, of course, keep in touch! D&Px

[@Tom_Svensen]

Ride safe, yh i got hit off my bike yesterday. time to go through insurance and then fabricate some repairs if its written off. Im enjoying the vids man keep it up

[@Moonfleet41]

Blimey, sorry to hear that mate, hope you're ok and weren't hurt, and good luck with the admin side of it.. insurance companies are never easy to squeeze money out of..

[@-g.k.4389]

Well I stripped my thermostat housing bolt hole tapped it but the inserts didn't stay in I tapped up but still no luck now I'm left with a oversized hole. I was thinking if I can use these rods to feel in the hole and just before it dries up put in a thread insert. Would that work?

[@Moonfleet41]

Not so sure that would work my friend, i can't see how you could insert anything into this while it's liquid ! it would flow into the inside of the insert and bury it ?... Maybe try just filling the hole with it and then drill and tap this filler metal like i did, as you saw it can take a fair amount of pressure..! Good luck with it.!!

[@mikefandango3343]

Wow, great product review Del 👍👍👍

[@fatroberto3012]

Maybe try higher temperature rods using brazing flux? These low temperature flux cored rods seem more like soldering than brazing.

[@madmarkuk1]

Nice experiment mate thankyou

[@ArmandoHernandez-qv9ch]

Will this work on an aluminum cylinderhead? I have a stripped thread on the exhaust side and its way too big for a helicoil

[@Moonfleet41]

This material melts and flows around 350c, so depending on where it is on the cylinder head, it may not be stable enough to use in such a hot environment... not sure what thread it is, but Wurth Time Sert thread repairs go right up to 19mm and above, so should be one big enough!

[@dannel6521]

Any link for the Alu weld rods?

[@ippielb]

If it stripped the aluminum out once, it’ll probably happen again. Stainless thread inserts are my go to.

[@Moonfleet41]

The results of the experiment were interesting, as you saw, and the material stayed plugged in the hole, some argue that a helicoil, or Time Sert, is only held in my the same parent metal that stripped in the first place, so it's always a trade off aye?!

[@ippielb]

Moonfleet41 yeah I completely agree but you’d also have to think about drilling the hole larger will give you a bigger diameter and more parent material to hold onto, which in turn should equal more holding force. I’d like to see a comparison.

[@dennisrobinson8008]

@@ippielb Basically it works. I tested it. BMW engine blocks have a issue with threads pulling out. It pulls out at between 40-50 ft-lb. I had to do the same test. A threadsert actually pulled out. Drilled out the hole oversize as on this video, filled it with HarborFreight "alumiweld" product. Angle grinder flat, drilled and tapped and a new insert. I was able to get 55 ft-lb on the torque wrench test, so as Delboy shows it will hold the torque at or slightly greater than the parent metal.

[@-g.k.4389]

@@dennisrobinson8008 So you think I can use this for my thermostat housing? I have a oversized hole and the inserts won't stay.

[@tonywong7300]

good job

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks

[@GreaseAndGravel]

Love these tests!

[@houseofbadgers9380]

Hi, exactly which rods were these?? Great video!

[@Moonfleet41]

They're genuine Durafix rods!

[@dennisrobinson8008]

that number is around when the thread pulls out on m10 in aluminum 50 ft lb max

[@woodatwork6927]

Very interesting! I’m more impressed by how well the alurod bonded to the parent metal. I thought it would spin inside the larger hole before it would strip. You mentioned at the end that you’d prefer a stainless steel insert over retreading. How concerned are you about dissimilar metal corrosion? It would also apply to SS bolts threaded into aluminium.

[@itruns]

Anti-seize

[@tomsawyer8993]

It can take 65 pounds but when we are talking heat it will expand and strip too or pull out just like an overtorqued head

[@the50first]

You may have saved my $1 flea market bicycle engine case.

[@kimilesnipez]

Help, would anyone know if I can use this to weld a nut onto a rounded off bolt so I can use a spanner to remove it. Would the weld be strong enough or break

[@chanellewilliams6173]

What is the name of the melting rods he’s using to fill the hole?

[@user-ol9es7ob7p]

You could do another way. Mold steel nut into drilled hole and try it. These solder rods should be able to hold steel as well.

[@dennisrobinson8008]

They bond to aluminum.

[@TERRYB0688]

Good test, makes me wonder if you could cast small items with it

[@dennisrobinson8008]

You can. Transmission ears. Broken holes in cover plates, etc, etc. It's strong as he shows. I did the test my self.

[@micheljaymurillo5393]

what type of alluminum you use that item ?

[@gerrypowell2748]

Good experiment and. Interesting❤️

[@JCcanU]

What torch tip are you using ? would a regular propane tip work as well as say a Mag pro or hot head ?

[@user-tj3cf7se6h]

As seen on U tube... it ain't no Jml. It's direct From Del Boys garage. An other success 👍.

[@Moonfleet41]

Ayup Alfie, good to put these things to the test aye mate?

[@MrHateley]

Great vid & test, have you now inadvertently set yourself your next test, namely heli-coil vs metal rod fill and tap, after all you have the torque results from the metal rod test already. Keep these great experiments coming.

[@Moonfleet41]

Yes mate, I did think of that, and I would have done it if the results were significantly different, but as you saw, they were almost the same as the virgin metal and it's already known that a heli-coil in virgin metal can only be as strong as the virgin metal because it taps in to it and if anything strips, it's the virgin metal that holds the heli-coil, and we've proved here at what point that strips, so it's a bit of a pointless test, you know the results would be pretty much the same as this.