Delboy's Garage, Threadlock vs Anti seize

[@adamshuaib27]

Fantastic video Delboy! Both thread lock and anti seize I believe are overlooked by too many. Cheap, very simple items like these two help us in the garage now and in the future. Keep it up sir this is my favorite channel!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Adam S. Thanks Adam, collect any bike from the main dealer after a service, and you'll find it all over the bike..!

[@Moonrider110]

Another very good video Del. i have been biking for 50 ,yes 50 years, and have learnt more since I found your channel 3 weeks ago than in all those years. Brilliant keep 'em coming.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Mick Lawrence Hi MIck, good to hear from you mate... and thanks so much for your kind faith and generous comments... am glad the videos can help you, and it's greta to hear from someone with way more riding experience than me! All the best my friend, thanks for watching, cheers, D&P!

[@bgs4tw]

God damn. I can't get enough of these videos. I love it. Looking forward to the next one Del.

[@Moonfleet41]

+bgs4tw Thanks buddy, much appreciated !

[@borilapostolov4419]

whooa! your vast knowledge ,sir, on materials and craftsmanship is huge, but now you should get a degree in chemistry ! merry christmas to all of ya folks!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Boril Apostolov Thanks Boril, you're very kind... glad you enjoy the videos, we really appreciate the support, merry xmas !

[@Town101]

Delboy, First, I want to thank you for your videos. I'm In Chicago, Illinois, USA learning more from you than anyone else. Please keep posting videos, they are not going unnoticed and people are learning alot from your wisdom. I think your niche is for the motorcyclist who is between garage owner and regular joe. Money! Black shirts = "Delboy's garage" ( add graphic) can bring in some well-deserved income for you and your wife. Thank you! Patrick

[@Moonfleet41]

+Patrick John Photography Hi Patrick, Thank you so much for your kind comments, and great support, a chanell is nothing without its loyal viewers... We did a run of T-Shirts and hoodies last year, and they went down very well indeed.... so we'll be doing some clothing again later in the spring once we get straight and squared away in the new home... maybe this time some cool long sleeve T-shirts (my favorite kind) and some BB caps as i love them... and all with the red DBG logo on black... We will post a video when the time comes to garner interest and guage how many we'll need... Take care and have a safe and happy new year my friend... D&P.

[@stephenmcallister6985]

hi I'm 16 and have been riding since last Christmas I just want to thank you for showing me how to maintain my bike and other tips and tricks. Have a good Christmas

[@Moonfleet41]

+Stephen Mcallister Hi Stephen, how fantastic to hear from you... people of your riding experience are the ones we target the channel at most... you are the riders of tomorrow in who's hands we will leave our lifestyle to continue in to the future... it's great to be able to help you, my friend, and great to hear that you've taken up the spanners yourself to take care of your bike - keep it that way, mate, that's exactly how it should be ! All the best, enjoy your holidays and ride safe... D&Px PS. drop us a line any time you need any help...

[@stephenmcallister6985]

+Moonfleet41 much appreciated have a great Christmas

[@keithgolla586]

Wow. By far the most Intuitive KZbin video I’ve ever seen on any topic. Well done. I’ve watched a ton of KZbin videos. Your the first I’ve ever subscribed to. Think I have a man crush. Knowledge is power! Cheers.

[@Moonfleet41]

You're most welcome Keith, glad you enjoyed it, welcome aboard and thank you for the support,

[@nbt2397]

MY GOD... the amount of knowledge on this video is amazing. THANK YOU.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks mate, just passing it on!

[@frankkrantz2819]

Keep em coming Del, love this stuff..like watching "HOW" when i was a kid..nice work can't wait for the next one...

[@Moonfleet41]

+Frank Krantz Thanks Frank, much appreciated mate !

[@tomthumb3085]

Once more, another very well explained topic pointing out actual application usage. Thanks for this information, I’ll certainly remember. The points raised.

[@fungames24]

Good info. I was wondering about using copper grease or thread locker on car thermostat bolts. This answers it. Even so, I won't use copper grease because of risk of the bolt undoing from vibration. I will instead use high temperature RTV as a sealer for the threads. RTV is a very weak glue but seals well, and it doesn't increase the risk of the bolt undoing.

[@fredhandrix]

Your videos are great, you explain things very well and tell us about the how’s and why’s as well as very interesting tips and examples. Keep up the good work !

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you Fred, I appreciate that!

[@greggferns3278]

Another good tutorial Del.My own rule of thumb is"am I likely to revisit this in the next year or so.Coppaslip it.If not, threadlock it.I've got 3 tins,moly,lithium and copper grease that I've had for at least a decade,and they still cost about a fiver each.Best money you could spend.And I'm Scottish.A mate of mine ,who was a bus mechanic,gave me a big tub of bolts and Nyloc nuts.Best money I've never spent.Be safe,.....Gregg

[@Moonfleet41]

+gregg ferns That's the best presents aye buddy? Thanks for your kind support, have a great xmas and we'll be loading more vids over the holidays, all the best, D&P!

[@swpearce]

Mystery demystified. Thanks so much for taking the time to categorize and explain what goes where when!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Steve Pearce Thank Steve, glad you enjoyed it, i really enjoyed making this one.. simple stuff aye.

[@davidmicheletti6292]

Very informative! When I'm doing maintenance on paper machines I use never seize compounds all the time. Between the fact the bolts are always exposed to water and chemicals it would be impossible to removed any bolts in the future without the protection that it provides.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

There is also loctite plumbing threadlock/sealant that you can you instead of flax fibers or silicone tape and it hardens on contact with water or anaerobically.

[@jonsmith3723]

This is the information that I love to get. I am retired and enjoy fixing things and this kind of information is scarce. Thankyou!

[@AK-IT]

Thank you for the summary of the technologies, brands, uses, examples, and recommendations!

[@IronSlimPA]

Brilliant man. I really like the format as well. Looking forward to this big announcement over the holiday. All the best to you and Penny and your families over this holiday season and may 2016 be your best year yet! Take care my friend.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Iron Slim Thanks Scott, wishing you and your family the same... contracts all exchanged last night on the new place, so should be in my the New Year! But a slow process as the new workshop needs the DBG T.L.C. to get it operational ! Merry Xmas, D&Px

[@myppnu]

To loosen a nut or something that has threadlock applied to it. Just re-apply "fresh" threadlock onto the already hardened threadlock compund. The chemical reaction will soften the threadlock compound and you can just unscrew the nut after a few minutes. Just make sure you leave some threadlocker visible when you apply it in the first place...

[@DrLamb13371]

Really enjoyed this, good format and excellent knowledge and teaching skills.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Harry Baker Thank you most kindly Sir, am glad you enjoy the videos, it's always important to spread a little knowledge out there to our fellow bikers aye?? !

[@gporterhouse2060]

Just lost a brake caliper bolt the other day so I'll be investing in some of these. Brilliant video, plenty learnt! Many thanks!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks George, much appreciated!

[@dwaynecorrea9775]

Fantastic! Your videos have saved me much $$, time, frustration and the info you share is very good! Thank you!

[@paulb19691]

Another great video , it's been a pleasure to view your videos this year and want to thank you both for what has become a fantastic channel. Have a great Christmas and New Year, have a rest but not too long :) Paul

[@Moonfleet41]

+Paul Bickley Ha ha, thanks Paul, you're very kind, we wont be having a rest, got three videos planned for the bikes, and a huge announcement about the garage itself...

[@johnmortison5763]

For your viewers in the US, Permatex (know for their excellent gasket sealers) makes an anti-seize compound that you paint on the threads with the brush attached to the can lid.

[@byronand5]

Well done presentation and very helpful... I think I finally understand now, thanks! Hi to Penny!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Byron Anderson Hi Byron, thank you most kindly Sir, Penny will be back soon, working flat out up till Christmas day, then we have lots of much more interesing things to do, and a big move coming too...!!! Hope you and the five are all well, take care and hap[y holidays.. D&P.

[@simonliddiard4900]

This video is great! As someone who want's to do the job properly, but doesn't have a lot of first hand mechanical or engineering knowledge the array of workshop consumables can be bewildering!

[@delboydereuck6031]

+Simon Liddiard Sure thing Simon, its not always made obvious on the packaging either aye... glad we could help you... take care.. Del.

[@Vlogbiker]

I was told that threadlock actually sets only under pressure be it that it only needs a very little but never over time unless the pressure is there. I use to fly radio controlled helicopters and if you got a drop on the workbench it or had a bolt covered with it but not wound a nut onto it then it would never cure as such, hence why it never goes off in a bottle. I had quite a debate with a rep over it and he insisted that it is not a glue and requires a condition before it solidifies. Thanks for the explanation of the copper slip and graphite explanation, didnt know you could put it on the back of a brake pad to stop vibration sound, again thanks heaps for the videos, your a legend for sharing so much!

[@Moonfleet41]

+VlogBiker Hi mate... yes, copper slip on the back of btake pads stops the squeel..but no more then butter in a biscuit aye.. Rather than deate the threadlock thing... experiment yourself... take a loose fitting nut and bolt, one that spins on freely... fill the thread with threadlock.. slip the nut on loosely, applying NO pressure, so you have a 'full nut', and leave it for 45 minutes... then come back and tell me what you found...?

[@Vlogbiker]

Moonfleet41 yeah I actually went out into the workshop last night and did that exact test very sloppy loose nut... lol, it was rock solid this morning. but the other bolt with no nut on it but resting against a piece of metal was still liquid and the two strips of metal with loctite between them was also liquid. Going to try two very flat peices today at the workshop at my office and place them in a vice and see what that yields.

[@gearjammer3688]

As a youngster I remember putting the exhausts back on my RD350 and 'wisely' using common or garden grease. did not take long to vanish into a cloud of putrid smoke (from the wrong end) and fill the barn so we had to abandon ship or choke to death, How we laughed.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Gearjammer Happy days growing up lol...!

[@Track848]

Great level of detail here, Prof. Del, thanks for posting. I use one or the other of these on just about every bolt on the Ducati. I suppose it's similar to the Harleys: a lot of twin-vibration going on that pushes a variety of fasteners out. After becoming a regular track day rider, I went to the next level on most of the 'crucial' bolts and have them safety-wired now.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Track848 Hey buddy, thanks for your kind comments, year, lockwiring is just about as hard core as it gets..lol Great to hear from you as always.. Del.

[@Focused_Veteran]

Hi Del and Penny, Just wanted to wish you guys a Merry Christmas and Happy New year, looking forward to next year and some decent weather! plan is to get along to a the first available meet a share a brew. All the best Dave

[@Moonfleet41]

+Muckateers Hi Dave, thank for your kind wishes, have a great Christmas and prosperous new year, and see you on a meet soon.. all the best.. D&P

[@xivlia]

extremely informative video! thank you very much! just in time for my CB1000R! picking it up in 4 days!

[@Moonfleet41]

Enjoy your new bike Ersan - have fun !

[@TheBazza2556]

very good video again mate, gonna be working shifts over xmas so wanna take this chance to wish you and penny all the very best for christmas and the new year, thank you so much for the vids this year and long may it continue, you have saved me and othrs lots of cash, so i hope santa brings you some thing good, and hopefully a christmas bloopers...that would be funny... all the best pal

[@Moonfleet41]

+Bazza Yamaha FZS Thanks Bazza... merry christmas to you too buddy... glad to the videos have helped you out... may do a merry christmas video over the holidays and got a couple of jobs to do on the bikes... but a big announcement coming for the new year! Have fun, all the best, D&Px

[@limweikiat7831]

Thank you very much, i've been watching your videos. It's been really amazing on how you can really explain everything clearly.

[@bassfacer1357]

Amazing video. Waaay more informative than any other vids I’ve seen on the subject.

[@tonylittle2744]

Thanks Del for a very informative video. I've never seen the tubed stuff, always used the liquid stuff and, yes, I've stood on it and squirted it everywhere and it ain't cheap. Happy Crimble to you and Penny.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Tony Little Ha ha, you too aye?, aint enfuryating....and you always do it to a new tube too lol.. merry Christmas mate, enjoy the holiday... D&P.

[@williamclayborn7995]

YOU'RE A GOOD TEACHER. I NEEDED THIS. THANKS FROM CALIFORNIA.

[@Moonfleet41]

You are so welcome William, Happy Holidays and keep safe there.

[@CarAudioInc]

Very informative, appreciate it bruh!

[@thehexter1]

Excellent classroom video, very informative. I've always been confused by these products. But then again, confusion is my middle name!

[@Moonfleet41]

+thehexter1 Blimey, and i thought it was my middle name..lol Thanks mate, glad the video helped you out, always drop me a line f you get stuck.

[@thehexter1]

We're all confused, and idiots as well! Have a great Christmas or whatever it is you & the little lady celebrate!

[@ThePlanBPill]

great video. Just started my bike build and was really concerned with where to use what for safety.

[@markneville5235]

Cheers Del , Thank you for sending that link for toque T bar wrench now another bit quality for the toolbox and loving your videos Cheers Mark.

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome Mark, good investment mate.. thanks for your support and kind feedback..

[@SomeInfoSecDude]

just discovered your channel which was referenced by another youtuber. Man you are a serious living and breathing encyclopedia...

[@ianmcd7523]

thanks for that del,, some nice and useful info as always. wishing you guys a merry Christmas

[@Moonfleet41]

+Ian Mcd H You too Ian, thanks for watching mate..!

[@moto238]

Very informative Sir, thankyou, and merry Christmas to you and Penny!

[@Moonfleet41]

+jeff brown Thanks Jeff, Have a great holidays yourself mate, all the best, D&P.

[@ModernNeandertal]

I just put my Buell motorcycle motor back in the frame and used anti-seize and no thread lock. Not because of this video because I just came upon this a few minutes ago. But I sure am glad I watched your video and it certainly makes sense to me. Buell recommends threadlock but I agree with you and the heck with Buell.

[@stevem9144]

Great explanation and demos. Fantastic! Thank you.

[@PaulR387]

Great explanation of both these products, Cheers Del..

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you Paul. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@TheRunereaper]

Good video again Del. How about stainless to stainless? It's awful stuff to get apart once it's picked up and straight anti-seize doesn't always cut the mustard like say,Tribol. I'm not sure about stuff like Loctite Studlock being permanent, it just seems to hold better... like a plastic with a higher shear value. You really do get the message across and I've learned a lot from you. Thanks for posting.

[@Moonfleet41]

+TheRunereaper Best thing I've ever found with stainless to stainless (provided it's cold) is simple Blue Threadlock... it acts as it's own corrosion inhibitator, but you don't need much if it's a precision thread, just a dab!

[@charubeable]

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for clarifying the usages of the two!!!

[@harrypalmer7169]

This is a great series Del, thank you.

[@Moonfleet41]

+harry “hoggroastminty” palmer Thanks Harry, glad you're enjoying it..

[@Cueballproductions1149]

nice video del good to know the difference between the compounds comes in handy seems like whenever stuck on bike just visit your channel lol ride safe

[@Moonfleet41]

+simon “cueball” gooner Thanks Si, that's how we like it, you know how it is mate, happy to help !

[@idjr2654]

Thank you for sharing the knowledge!

[@John-cc1pc]

Sorry re the Harley Road King question below - my confusion is that the hub is ally and the bolts are steel/titanium and the disc will get hot. The manual mentions nothing about the rota fitting using any kind of locking agent. Hope that makes sense. Thanx again. Cheers 👍

[@zoomermcboomer4771]

Great video, even though it's 7 years old, I learned a lot.

[@robertanthonyfarrell]

Nice one! Always did what the Haynes told me to but never knew why - cheers

[@markschultze]

Nice video, as usual. Merry Christmas Delboy!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Mark Schultze Thanks Mark, and happy new year to you an our family mate.. all the best and thanks for your kind support... D&P.

[@igorsmelniks]

Once again a great video! thanks so much. You mentioned to use a bit of thread lock on Stainless Steel bolts, but not to have thread lock in Aluminium. What would you recommend to do when I have Stainless Steel bolt going into Aluminium?

[@Moonfleet41]

OK, first of all, is it a bolt that's liekly to vibrate free? You don't need threadlock on every single bolt or fastener, mst engines these days have stainless fasteners in to aluminium and if they're correctly torqued in place, they should stay put! However, if you're worried, then just a tiny dab of blue threadlock won't do any harm.

[@igorsmelniks]

Delboy's Garage sorry, forgot to mention - was regering to yoke bolts. thank you!

[@MikeV8652]

Thank you, sir, for explaining very clearly the reasoning behind each of your recommendations so that we can understand why to do this or not do that. Earlier tonight, I watched a video from another Englishman called "Ultimate Handyman," and he never gave a single reason or even defined his terms. He just said to do this and don't do that. What an arrogant bastard! I gave him a kicking in the comments!

[@boot-strapper]

Best video on this topic I have ever seen

[@malcolmvenn4490]

It's like being back at school again but a lot more fun...cheers Del.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Malcolm Venn Thanks Malcolm, glad you enjoyed it mate.. have a safe and happy new year.. D&P.

[@choppergirl]

What about spraying cold galvanizing compound on your threads? Also, cotter pins and safety wire. I don't have any castle nuts, so I drill a cotter pin hole through the bolt just past the nut, but I think it would work better keeping the nut from turning if it were through the nut, but then you compromise the bolt and nut strength...

[@muhammedk9648]

Hi. Thanks for the useful information . So from what I understand from this vid, the better product for a vehicle caliper bracket bolt (carrier bolt) , is copper slip rather than a thread lock? Certain people argue that with anti-seize, these bolts can get loose with vibrations etc - any truth in this?

[@michaelthompson3381]

Might be a good idea to investigate the relationship between Anti Seize / Thread Lube and the listed Torque settings for a particular fastener. Lots of threads are accidently stripped by tightening up to a Torque value which is applicable to a "dry"" (un-lubed) assembly. Setting your Torque Wrench to the recommended setting for a dry assembly will overtighten by a considerable amount when the threads are lubed with anti seize. Some manuals will give a recommendation such as "lightly oiled threads" when listing a particular Torque value. (Although I personally have never seen this in a Motorcycle manual). My own method is to only use recommended Torque settings on dry threads unless the use of anti seize / thread lube has been taken into account and is mentioned in a manual. Of course it will take a good few years of experience to get "the feel" for just how tight an assembly is as there are quite a lot of variables such as materials, thread pitch and size to take into consideration.

[@transdimensionalist]

there are charts which list the relative torque values for lubed and dry threads, do a search

[@x-man5056]

You have a misunderstanding of torque and torque value. The torque value of a fastener is based ONLY in the materials of the fastener and material it is threaded into and the clamping force required. Lubricating the threads does NOT reduce the clamping force requirement or the strength of the fasteners thread. If there is a chart out there describing a reduction in torque value based on lubricating threads it is a total piece of rubbish. The truth is torquing a fastener with no lube* gives you a slightly lower bolt stretch/clamping force. In other words, the appropriate clamp force/torque is more accurately achieved with lubed threads. Instead of reducing the torque on wet threads, it would be more accurate to increase the torque on dry threads. Torque specs are given for "best thread condition". Any other standard would infinitely variable. Example: engine builder...Rod, Main, and Head bolts on an engine NEVER go in dry. The torque in the spec is the torque used to get the clamping force required. That clamping force could be easily reduced by installing the bolts dry. (steel bolt into cast iron the worst for this) I worked as Manufacturing Quality Engineer for USDOD in the rocket engine industry. Nearly every fastener on a rocket engine not installed with thread locker is installed with Anti-Seize, even the ones that go into locking fasteners. We would use a dial indicating torque wrench to measure the drag caused by the locking fastener, and ADD that value to the torque, but no additional torque to compensate for anti-seize or lube, it is completely unnecessary and would not be correct. *Anti-Seize is not technically not designed to be a lubricant. It works by sealing threads from moisture, creating a noble metal layer between metals, often dissimilar metals. Because of its grease like nature, it does provide a lubricating layer for fastener install, but that is not it's purpose, just an added feature. It does help prevent galling of aluminum threads with SS fasteners, but Anti-Seize has no film strength, no service duty. It is not grease. Though it feels like you may be over torquing on a wet install, all of the material, threads,and required clamping force remain the same, you are getting a more accurate torque which equates to bolt stretch/clamping force with a wet install and likely slightly under torquing with a dry install because of the drag from the threads and possibly the shank or shoulder of the bolt. Always torque to spec., wet or dry install, shot in the dark guesstimates of reductions in torque are inappropriate, unnecessary.

[@x-man5056]

@@transdimensionalist Show me.

[@TheGrizzlyGarage]

Thanks I appreciate this information, great explanation!

[@pinkerton2964]

Brilliant vids I did level 1 to 3 light vehicle mechanic 20 years ago & always either learning new skills or topping up what you already know/thought I knew or forgot. When I was target shooting many gun smiths used nail varnish instead of threadlock. Question why do manufacturers still use none stainless bolts/studs for headers when it's a well known snapping/corrosion problem.

[@Moonfleet41]

+james grocott Nail varnish is a great surrogate threadlock, and it can fix a ladder in your tights too apparently..lol Glad you enjoyed the video, have a great Christmas.. Del.

[@jakebowers2936]

Merry Christmas amazing videos keep it up.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Jake Bowers Thanks Jake, Happy new year buddy, thanks for your support.. D&P.

[@_Waldezas]

I think you are the first one, to clearly explain the difference between the antiseize and threadlocks

[@0ddSavant]

Good energy. Good information. Much obliged. Cheers!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@joshuaking7098]

The question i had prior to this video was answered. My concern was bolts that retain a drive shaft, which i would not want rattling off, however, I had so much trouble getting them to come out I ruined the heads of the bolts and almost failed to get them out without having them break off. Not wanting that problem in the future, I thought I would use anti-seize. now that i know thread locker can prevent corrosion, my choice has become clearer. lock the threads, but prevent the corrosion.

[@Moonfleet41]

Good plan Joshua, make sure to use the blue temporary thread lock if you ever want them to come out again.. not the red permanent lock.. !

[@exjazzer]

Thank you, I use both on my Sportster and car. A good demonstration.

[@MrAlmar07]

Another Video full of great info. Cheers mate.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Alan Bell Thanks mate, simple stuff... and got more simple skills videos coming!

[@bigfatpear]

I loved this video.Cheers Del !

[@michaelhoare5291]

Great video again Del. To be honest though I use copperslip everywhere because it does both jobs and is therefore a viable substitute for threadlock whereas threadlock is not a viable substitute for copperslip.

[@EdgarMendezz]

What do you recommend putting on the bolts from a F150 driveshaft? Where it connects to the differential. Blue thread locker? It is steel to steel.

[@TheSavageGarage]

I can safely say I learnt something today, thanks bud

[@Moonfleet41]

+James'sWorld Thanks James, you're very kind, and im glad you enjoyed it. Del.

[@marshallcollins8634]

Great video as always.a little off topic but what kind of watch are you wearing? I'm going to try to save this as I can never remember. I only have 2 brain cells left and it's hard to get them to get together and do anything.🤔 I just realized I just proved my point. Thanks

[@Supernova12034]

Great video, so... dont use locktit on break calipers?

[@michaelcooksmd]

Hi, just a quick question. I remembered this video and have used anti-seize (copper or aluminum, depending on temperature) since then. But what's your take on using an anti-seize compound on spark plugs?

[@DAUKGinjaNinja]

Thanks Del. Nicely explained and useful info.

[@Moonfleet41]

+DAUKGinjaNinja Thanks mate..

[@Coltrabagar]

Great explanation and demonstration. Thank you.

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome Travis, thank you for your support..

[@Grandad_mick]

Another great vid DelWishing you and Penny a great Xmas and productive new yearAll the bestMetal Micky

[@Moonfleet41]

+mustard dave Hi Micky, thanks mate, merry christmas to you and yours too, enjoy the holidays... D&P.

[@alfonsosilva5836]

And if you have already put thread locker on a steel bolt to an aluminum body... What is the more secure way to remove it?

[@dddarien]

Good explanation and demonstration bro. Keep it up!

[@warrengray610]

Hey Del, useful video also good to see you resume the street fighter build, ACE, just one question, you spoke about the way exhaust manifold bolts stay in place by virtue of the washer/seal keeping constant pressure which keeps those secure, is that the same mechanism that keeps the oil sump bolt in place, also do you think it would be a good idea to change sump bolts for magnetic ones? kind regards Warren

[@namepassword2106]

Blue = Handtool Removable, Red = Heat Removable, Green = Wicking, Purple = Low Strength Blue Surface Insensitive is usually what you want. Will bond over an oily surface.

[@MrCube17]

Purple is also wicking

[@daz0705]

another great video Del, i've known someone use super glue as a temp measure before now as threadlock, on the front disk brake bolts on a Harley wideglide. I don't know how long he left it on for but I wouldn't recommend it, you cant be too safe when it comes to your brakes, probably worked just fine but but for what it costs for some temp thread lock theres no excuse to use the proper stuff, I hope you and Penny are well, and have a great Christmas, take care D&P stay cool, Daz

[@Moonfleet41]

+Daz Fowell Hi Daz, I think the crux here is brake bolts... I wouldn't cut any corners on that, just like you said... but for more general things, superglue and even nail varnish are a great substitute if you are stuck... have a good Xmas mate, ride safe, D&Px

[@daz0705]

+Moonfleet41 thanks Del, I hope you and Penny have a great Christmas too mate, put your feet up eat and be merry, take the time to rest as I know you both have an extremely busy lifestyles what with working and filming and editing these fantastic videos you do, and not least taking the time to respond to your subscribers as much as you can, and try to deal with the trials and tribulations life throws at us, you've certainly inspired me over there last 18 months and you gave me a lift after my illness, I look bloody awfull in that profile pic from it but that was more to do with the stress and anxiety, I must put up another lol thanks mate.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Daz Fowell Thanks Daz, good to hear from you mate, and so glad that we've been able to help you in some small way... life isn't really that busy, it's just how we like to make it lol ... rubbish on telly and many miles on the road still not yet ridden... reckon for every video we've made, we've made a friend somewhere in the world and that is truly priceless.... having a week off over Xmas which would be a good rest if we weren't moving house lol lol.... ohhh, will it ever end.... now pass us a beer ... keep well, D&Px

[@kaiser9100]

Nice one Dell. Haven't seen Penny in a few videos now. Merry Christmas.

[@Moonfleet41]

+kaiser9100 Hi mate, yeah Penny's working hard coming up to Christmas, retail business and all that... but she'll be back very soon.. Thanks for your kind good wishes.. D&P.

[@KoolBreeze420]

This is the stuff I use on my motorized mountain bike none of the nuts could handle the vibration even with lock washers so I had to use the red permatex thread sealant. The red just means it's for use in high temperature area's so I used it for anything that gets hot like the muffler.

[@martincarey8620]

Great stuff as always Del... Very helpful advice for any novice :-)

[@Moonfleet41]

+Martin Carey Cheers Martin, have a great Chrismas mate.

[@martincarey8620]

+Moonfleet41 you too. hope you both have a great Christmas

[@johnnewman3221]

sir, I have a silly question, is that nickel anti seize compound magnetic, because it has nickel in it? and is it silver in color. Im doing some fun project and looking to buy one. please reply I couldnt find it elsewhere

[@Mikolaj_u]

Great video. Love the news reader style =D

[@Moonfleet41]

+Mikolaj1406 Thanks mate, much appreciated... and it's goodnight from me, and goodnight from her lol !

[@KarlTheDingbat]

I have in the past used wood varnish and nail varnish as gheto thread lock, it seems to work but takes a bit longer to cure.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Karl the Dingbat Superglue, touchup stick paint, nail varnish, fiberglass resin, UHU glue, or even plumbers tape... use what you have aye mate...lol

[@markneville5235]

Hi Del, In your HD clutch video you used a 4 to 14nm T bar torque wrench where did you get it from as I have looked all over the web and could find anything , Regards, Mark.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Mark.. Here you go buddy, this link will take you direct to the RECON site and they are usually in stock to buy now mate... www.reconelectrical.co.uk/Wiha-Torque-T-Handle--T-Plus-TorqueVario-Set

[@sigops]

really good video, something i never really though of too much, but this is very important. thanks for the video

[@christophershirley1303]

Hi Del & Penny Sorry to bring up a 12 month old thread, but I have a question if thats okay. I'm trying to bring an old VFR750 back to it's prime and so far have had to drill out 4 fairing bolts to get some panels off (was careful not to melt the panels) and they were SOLID. Now my question would be should I use threadlock on the mudguard and fairing fastener bolts or copper slip? The mudguard goes onto the fork lowers (I presume these are aluminium), and the panel bolts would go into steel (i presume) receiver nuts. At the moment I havent bought replacement bolts but the bolt kits online seem to all be stainless steel so will probably go that way.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Christopher, you dont need anything on them buddy, use the stainless ones, and just fit them in securely without over doing it.. they'll stay there and wont corrode.... never use threadlock, they wont come out buddy... just a smear of regular grease is fine mate.. ! Good lukc wiht the bike, and Merry Christmas.. Del.

[@groovy_bear]

Very interesting, thanks for sharing ! I don't know if there are many parts that are made out of titanium in the world of motorcycles, but apparently you should definitely use copper based anti-seize when using steel bolts on those components. At least that's what I've heard. Perhaps your experience is different, in that cas I'd be interested in reading what you think about it ! Cheers

[@Nightdare]

Yup, bolting SS or Tit into bare alu will become a drama once you need to disassemble the parts The more dissimilar the metals, the faster/worse galling will become, fusing the metals together and ruining the thread of the lesser material This is why bike manufs. (apart from costs) use galvanized steel bolts (with threadlock) instead of stainless This is the list of dissimilar materials, the further they are separated, the worse galling will be between them: Gold Graphite Silver Stainless steel, type 316 Titanium Nickel (passive) Silver solder Bronze Copper Brass Tin Lead Cast iron Mild steel Aluminum Cadmium Galvanized steel Zinc (often used as a sacrificial anode in marine environments) Magnesium

[@steveokeefe9905]

Very useful. I’m new to motorbike maintenance and your videos are really helpful. I’m very familiar with galvanic corrosion, doesn’t copper slip accelerate that when used in aluminium? Also what are the effects on torque ratings? Is there a danger of over torquing due to the lubricant effect?

[@Nightdare]

Pure copper is a tad harder (3 mohs) material than aluminum(2.5 to 3 mohs for pure Alu) But bikes are often harder alu alloys, copper powder combined with the grease, will not solidify as easily and galling is also diminished As for torque ratings, when applying any kind of grease or threadlock, always torque down a little lower than the boltspec prescribes

[@MichaelAndersen_DK]

This is bloody awesome. Cheers mate!

[@guoitdreuy]

Nice video, do you have to worry about cooper slip making booked come undone? For example the previous owner used it on the wheel bolts of my car but I thought best just to do them up dry. If something does not get hot and you don't want it to come undone is just doing it up dry fine? It will this lead to snapped bolts later on?

[@Moonfleet41]

The presence of any form of grease on a wheel lug will prevent it rusting in place...they get wet with salty road water and they get hot..so they will rust if they're dry.! and Copper slip is far better than grease because it wont melt away.. wheel nuts do get hot... just place your hand in the middle of your wheel after a hard drive with lots of braking.. no need to overdo it, just a very light dab on the thread only, and torque them up to the right level.. they wont come undone buddy... antisieze doesn't mean they come undone, it means they wont seize..!

[@nazimmultani6177]

Sir wheel bolt which kind grease use.? And car teo hock point which kind grease use