Delboy's Garage, Triumph Bonneville, EBC Front Brake Upgrade, and 'Slinky Glide' Clutch Cable !

[@AH-hz3qe]

Thanks so much for taking the time to make these videos. They have helped me tremendously work on my own bike and so much easier to understand and staring at pictures in a manual!

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome mate, im glad the videos can help you.

[@marscruz]

Your attention to the small details and showing close ups of the tiny bits that need to be put back in their proper orientation is outstanding. Your methodical cleaning and using the correct, high quality tools, fasteners and lubricants shows a care and concern for the highest standards. After all, it's your (or Penny's) life on the line. No one else will have more of a reason to do the best job possible. I started working on my brand new push bike 55 years ago and have worked on all my transportation since then... including push bikes (4 currently), motorcycles (over a dozen total -- just one now), and many cars and two pickup trucks. I can't do everything that needs to be done but I can do over 80% of all the work needed, even on the newer computerized vehicles. The money I save goes to buying tools and upgrading 'farkles'. I tend to go for function and performance more than looks. Lighting, brakes and tires are probably the most important safety items on my bike. I don't mess with engines aside from air filter and exhaust upgrades. I went through that phase over 30 years ago and can't be bothered with that trouble now. Thanks for your videos. I've learned a lot over the years but you teach me something new almost every video. I can't quibble with your choices or make suggestions about what you should do different. You are working at a very high level and giving a lot to those guys (mostly) who are still on the upslope of learning their mechanical and troubleshooting skills. Keep up the great work Del and Penny. All the best mates. You are a discovered treasure.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you my friend, you are very kind. So often it is the fear of messing it up, the fear of the unknown, and the possible financial consequences that stops people rolling their sleeves up to do their own work... we hope that in showing all the detail, and a few tips to overcome common problems, we can light a fire under the viewers confidence....and after 6 years, perhaps its working at last.. one of the most common things we hear in feedback is how we have inspired someone to so a certain job....but in fact we have never covered that job.. they did it all by themselves and all we did, was boost their confidence to give it a go.. The skills are within us all.. we just need to know the anatomy, and have the right tools, and we can do anything right..! Thanks again, your support makes it all worthwhile.. Del.

[@dmjbj1]

I am truly loving these Triumph videos!! I wish these were available when I first started riding; it would have saved me an enormous amount of time and money. Keep up the great work.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks buddy, grab any useful ones for your saved box , you can always use them in the future!

[@glasgowharleyrider]

Years later still watching your brake videos and now on my 3rd bike since starting watching ya del , great advice and technical tips as ever !👍👍

[@billbennett3323]

Hi del I'm a novice rider only 2 years in and I have watched so much of your videos I have learnt a wealth of your knowledge I can not thank you enough thanks for the time you put in and the depth to give us this for free, cheers bill

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome Bill, im glad the video can help you out buddy.. enjoy your bike, summers comin mate.!

[@KRColson]

Such a pleasure to watch your videos! Clear, concise with no BS! Thank you Del. Cheers from Ontario, Canada.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you so much for your kind words, Glad to help out.!

[@Desmo904]

SO nice to see someone who knows what they are doing working on a bike for a change! Also, the taking photos of the work as you go along, (Chef's kiss) invaluable!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you for your kind words. Much appreciated!

[@martijnmakelaar4353]

Recently sent you an e-mail about those pad pin covers. Thanks for covering that. Your video's give me a lot of confidence to work on my own bike. Well explained. Keep it up. Martijn, Netherlands

[@TVoss-sf8rr]

Thank you for all the videos you have made. I am a new female owner of a Bonneville. I've always been the technical type and I love to fix things. I've learned a lot watching your videos and I am now confident to work on my bike without having to take it anywhere for easier work that needs to be done. Much appreciated!

[@Moonfleet41]

Glad the videos can help, and inspire, you Taii, appreciate your kind words and support! Ride safe...

[@rhinely850]

So, as the pads wear, the fluid drops, the flexible rubber seal below the reservoir cap collapses into the void, allowing air to bleed in through a tiny bleed hole. Install new pads, press the pistons back in, the fluid rises, the flexible seal rises with the tide, and of course, the air goes back out the bleed hole and all is well with the world. Make sure no dirt or wax clogs that hole. Great video!

[@Moonfleet41]

A perfect explanation of the system..

[@chrisheggie952]

Thanks for that, great video, love the detail, very informative. I've always wanted to sit in and watch my mechanic (multiple National sidecar champ here in Oz) do his thing on my bikes but out of respect I don't ask, so it's great to see how it's done.

[@stevethistle7974]

Thanks Delboy, Unfortunately I am not a confident mechanic and you make this all look so quick and easy. I also now am not sure that I want to trust any mechanical issues to my local mechanic, seeing how thorough and meticulous you are with all of your work... it makes me a bit weary of other mechanics. This may be unfair, but you do things so well, I hope that my local guy is as educated in doing things right. You also are costing me a fortune in tools and lubes and things to upgrade on my bike. Plus living in Canada I get hammered with shipping and taxes for any items we get. THANKS for your site it is the best of the web. Regards Steve

[@mauricioguardia894]

"If anything is going to pump 8 times... its something else" LOL ~ Thanks for your great videos and good laughs!

[@peterde-la-garde3081]

Just found your site Del , I am planning to change front and back brakes for the first time myself with guidance from a mate over here , i have watched both videos and feel a lot more confident to do the job . Thanks Mate !

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome Peter, good luck with your project, have fun and enjoy the process, and ride safe buddy!

[@Malli.koduru]

Thanks a lot for the highly helpful videos. Purchased a T100 recently and followed your instructions to clean rear brake calipers, and replace the brake pads successfully. Was following the same kind of instructions for front brake caliper cleanup and replace brake pads, however, the pistons are not moving at all after bleeding the air out of the brake line. Even tried replacing the front brake calipers with a used one, with no luck. It just seems like the brake line is not at all building the pressure to pop out the pistons and make the pads close to the disc. Appreciate your quick help!!!!!

[@allformegrog]

Like the way you work, nothing fancy. Loved the part of your dad, i also think we are spoiled with all the choises we have now. Old ways are somtimes even better also for your wallet. Great videos

[@Moonfleet41]

So true, simple and effective, why make life hard for yerself!

[@TheAndrewjohnston]

i never knew about brake fluid reacting with air, thanks for the tip

[@paulsven7923]

Spot on about your old man and one tin of grease that did everything :)

[@frankkrantz2819]

Good point about securing the bike on the lift, have even seen a bike with the table go over, both together..that would really spoil your day..superb vid..very pro now Del...

[@Moonfleet41]

Ha ha, thats serious... hope you weren't under it all..!

[@frankkrantz2819]

No it was not me, I saw it in a workshop many years ago, I guess it does happen eh though ? if your really not being careful, how stable is your table ?

[@ericmowrey6872]

If you want to keep your expensive new brake fluid from moisture after you've opened it then spray some pure nitrogen into the plastic container and put the cap back on immediately. I keep a 50 litre nitrogen bottle in my shed; mainly to fill tires. Hi-pressure nitrogen is dry as a bone. A little squirt chases out both ambient air/oxygen and any moisture. Try it, you'll save lots of money.

[@Moonfleet41]

Good tip Eric... and common sense too..

[@brianveestrom6784]

Just when I think I know enough, you share your experience and reset my gauges. Thank you! Beautiful video and flow. You are mentoring us all. Big props Delboy and Penny (there is no I in team, but there must be a partner in there somewhere =) ).

[@brandywell44]

@24' you coat the axle pinch bolt. Using any grease will affect torque readings and will be easy to over tighten using a standard torque setting. Its the same with spark plugs (I use copper grease on spark plug threads and have to go by feel until I've crushed the copper washer, rather than use a torque setting). I use a method where I tighten just enough to apply friction to the axle to prevent movement side to side and look that the pinch gap is never more than parallel. Great video though and I find brakes satisfying to maintain. Pennys bike is a Beaut

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi, with all respect, you are fundamentally incorrect my friend... ALL torque values quoted by manufacturers are recommended on lubricated threads only... it is NEVER correct to torque a thread dry, as the drag created between dry metal to metal will give a dangerously low reading... and can also lead to bolt stretch, and even breakage... so in future, when you do yours, always consider any torque value you see is already worked out on a lubricated thread!

[@brandywell44]

I didnt know that Del, I stand corrected. Thanks for the videos, enjoyable and educational and thanks for taking the time to respond to my comment.

[@Moonfleet41]

No worries buddy, thats what the videos are for... we try to cover everything we can think of in the video....ive made the point before that all torque values are on lubed threads.. but its not always obvious... thanks for watching chap..!

[@TheSavageGarage]

I know what its like making you tube videos trying to help and instruct people and having the know it alls come in and tell you your doing something wrong, or you should of used this, should of done that.. Makes you wonder why they really watch if they know how to do everything perfectly.. Great stuff as always bud!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks buddy, thank for your understanding, very few people get that point... we make these videos to help the novice, to give guidance to the unknowing, and the unconfident, and we remain here in the comments box, ready to reply to further queries that inevitably arise. Sadly, there will always be people who have the self-asserted arrogance to pick a mnor detail and blow it in to a full on criticism! Any garage work has variable methods and options available, there is no single wya to do anything, but people have a preferred way, they will often be very defensive of it, and quite obnoxious in that defence... to me, it all just speaks volumes about their character, their humility and respect... most of them mean no harm, in fact, some see it as well intended, so we never let is affect us, and the full on trollers, we have the luxury of being able to delete and block, yet in 6yrs of making videos, this policy has only netted us 64 blocked people out of hundreds of thousands of comments, so it truly is an unimportant minority! Appreciate your support very much, All the best, D&P

[@justinthomson7877]

Its guys like yourself (both of you) that I owe my knowledge, meager as it may be, and the confidence that I have acquired because of videos like this. I'm finishing up on build/rebuild number 11, going to pick up 12 and 13 this weekend. About all I haven't done so far is open a case and rebuild the motor, I am exited to do that though. I watch these now to learn as much as I do for the entertainment. Thanks for all your time and effort, and remember many of the people you are actually helping don't reply as they are way too busy trying out what you just taught them; so it leaves the negative nancy's all the time in the world to comment. Just my 2 cents

[@Moonfleet41]

ha ha, "Negative Nancy".... thanks so much buddy.. and you make a good point.. we're glad you can take so much from the videos, it makes all the hours and effort worthwhile for sure.. Thanks for your feedback..!D&P.

[@timmason7430]

When I started it was 2strokes(They're easy) My first strip down of a four stroke was my buddy's CB550four(beautiful bike) we stripped and rebuilt it in a day(he had been putting it off for a few months, HE hadn't done it before either), we put it back together and it fired straight up at the first press of the button, He bought my beers all night as a thank you. lol

[@daz0705]

those are the sort of peaple that dont do well in job interviews mate, it doesnt matter how much you think you know and how long you have been doing something, you never stop learning and your not much use if you do.

[@titchness8487]

I started using old engine oil and a tooth brush to oil my chain because the chain lube I used to use just came off and made the wheel sticky and black. since started with old oil, the chain looks healthier and cast off isn't half as bad.

[@leminako]

Hello Del and Penny, When you do the next video, will there be fork fluid change to? I did mine last year with the tec fork springs and shorter spacers. But the original fork oil level was to low to begin with so i didn't really now what the correct level needed to be? couldn't find nothing more than different opinions about it so i put oil in at roughly 106 mm measured form te top when fully compressed. But when i ride the front is really hard on bumpy roads jumps up and down real fast , and normally whit the tec progressive springs that has to be better instead of worse? or is this because there is to much oil in the forks? What do you think is wrong here? Greetings Dieter

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Dieter, what weight of oil did you use ?? Let me know!

[@leminako]

Moonfleet41 I've used 10w fork oil?

[@samuelgamble7709]

Mangled cable cost me a new clutch, it went (as in flared and I presume unwound somewhat) inside over the space of about a year, and me not really paying attention to it meant it wasnt fully disengaging the clutch (Just a tiny bit, that eventually got worse and became evident). Leading to a knackered clutch. When I took the old cable out you couldnt even pull the inner cable through the outer cable. Felt a bit silly for neglecting it, but it was a lesson learnt, and I wont be doing it again.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Samuel, i think we all learn the things we know in one way or another.. .and often its by failure and breakdowns... so as long as we DO learn, and work out how to prevent it next time.. then at least we turn a bad experience into something valuable, "knowledge".. Take care buddy.. Del.

[@buenosjaires]

Congratulations! Your videos clarify me a lot, you are careful, here in Brazil I have not yet seen anyone show how maintenance is done in boneville. keep it up!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you my friend, am glad the videos can help you - be safe and have a good day !

[@Jbaaaaak]

If it wasn't for this guy I would be spending a LOT more money on the bike on maintenance. Thanks for all you do Del!

[@Moonfleet41]

Glad to help, you can support us on Patreon or Tip Cup if the videos help you often, as it helps us to keep going and produce the videos, thanks again for your feedback.

[@slipgatecentral]

Hey, what is that awesome allen wrench key set you used at 5:00? I want it, looks convenient.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thats a "Wiha ErgoStar MagicRing set" , Here's a link for you buddy... www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-magic-ring-metric-hex-key-set-9-pieces/8095G?kpid=8095G&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%2520Listing%2520Ads-_-Sales%2520Tracking-_-sales%2520tracking%2520url&gclid=CMTll8WvntMCFTIo0wodoToCqw&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKP4pcWvntMCFYow0wodYhkIvw

[@jinglemybells262]

slipgatecentral I want to know too! That's a nice set for sure

[@MrToonfish]

I pray the great lord each and everyday to have a technician like you in my own town in order to work on my Triumph Street Cup ! Unfortunately that great lord is deaf ! Thanks for sharing this and giving us your time for free ! Cheers from Belgium.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you for your kind words my friend, im glad the videos can help you... take care..Del.

[@davyvos8019]

Hey there! I am replacing the front brake pads of my '95 Bandit and it looks like the caliper of the Scrambler is the same as that of the Bandit. However, behind my old brake pads is an 'Anti-chatter shim' (Haynes). The Haynes even says that there should be a 'Packing piece' between them, but that is missing. In the video, I see you installing the brake pads simply without these parts in between. I wondered what the need is for these 'Anti-chatter shims' and 'Packing pieces', and whether it is bad that I miss those 'Packing pieces'. Greetings from a Dutch fan!

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Davy, these calipers on the Triumph are pretty much the same item, and as you can see, Triumph dont fit the shims. the purpose if them is to stop the brake squealing, (harmonic vibration), by absorbing that vibration so they stay silent in use.. I had a Bandit for many years, and it didn't any shims behind the pads.. the bike may not suffer with brake squeal.. and if it doesn't, then just refit the calipers with your new pads, and you're good to go.. but if they squeal, then just put some Copperlsip on the BACK of the brake pads, that will absorb the vibration and stop the squealing...just a thin layer my friend, not too much. Hope that helps you.. Del.

[@davyvos8019]

Thanks for your advice Del. I watched your 'Bandit Caliper rebuild' and 'Triumph front brake' vids over and over and I learned so much from it! It gave me confidence that i could do it too so I orderd everything I needed and went for it. The past winter I putted new brake discs on the front and I gave my calipers a good wash en new seals. Next thing up is fitting the brake pads (with a thin layer copperslip as you say) and then a brake fluid change (again with a lot of help from your video's) I discovered your canal some weeks ago and I started watching al your playlists. I already saw all the Bandit episodes, almost all the Scrambler episodes and a lot of other ones. And I'm keeping up with your recent projects! I have so much fun in watching those videos, keep going!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks so much for that lovely feedback, we really appreciated it my friend - enjoy your projects!

[@Koinonia_R]

Funny you post this about upgrading brakes. Im considering upgrading the fronts on my Concours C10!

[@motordave1123]

I know it's an old video, but I need your help. I had to remove my front brake line for rerouting on my 2016 Triumph Scrambler. I noticed a small round ball on the floor of my shop right below the caliper after removing the banjo bolt. I reinstalled the lines and have attempted to bleed them to no avail. I think the ball is for a check valve in the caliper, but I'm not sure. I did Not disassemble the caliper, i only removed the line. Can you help me?

[@LenScapoff]

First class series of vids, as always Del. I also really like the change in tempo of the titles and music for this vid, too. You both really do work hard at evolving the audio/visual package.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks for noticing Len, this series has been a new direction in the post production... each of these videos is five times the work of the usual ones.. they are about 20 hours each to make end to end..... may not always be able to do this, but its a great learning curve thats for sure... !

[@leminako]

Hi del, Question about the clutch (cable). After watching this video I also installed a slinky glide clutch cable. As I always found that it was hard to the pull and after medium long rides with plenty of gear changes I always had pain in my hand. I thought this would be better with the slinky glide but nothing's changed..the one finger pull that you do in the video is on my Bonnie not possible? Any suggestions on what the problem may be or can I adjust something in the clutch assembly that could help me? Much appreciated Regards Dieter

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Dieter, can only think you may have routed it incorrectly... maybe got a snag, or a kink, in it somewhere, as even Penny can pull hers in with two fingers... just checking nothing is binding buddy!

[@leminako]

That was my first thought to,, but the cable sits correctly. Maybe the problem is fisical and is there an issue with my hand if I do that movement often? Just to make clear, there is no other adjustment possible on a bonneville clutch apart from on the clutch lever and on top of the clutch case itself?

[@Moonfleet41]

No Dieter, im afraid not, thats it.. the clutch ramp inside the transmission is already a light pull item.. maybe you just need to eat a little more Spinach my friend....lol! Seriously, you can move the lever inwards along the bar a little and then be pulling in the end of the lever more which will give little more leverage..?

[@leminako]

The spinach maybe an idea 😉. But I'll try the lever option first. Thanks Take care

[@juliomatos122]

Hi , I have a question what tires do you recommend for the T 120 Bonneville 2017 that are good in the dry and wet the front is a 150/70 17 inch and the rear is a 100/90 18 inch , Thanks !

[@nykamp91]

Can you recommend a decent tapping/threading set please? The first few threads on some bolts under my seat are messed up, so screwing something in is difficult and probably going to chew it up further! Thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Difficult to recommend tools mate, there are so many good options on the market, I find Sealey are a great brand of tools, not overly expensive, but no cheap Chinese rubbish either... have a looksee what they may have available.... for a bike, you need a metric tap & die set from about M3 out to M10... and the more you pay for the set, the better quality it will be! Glad to see you're thinking in a good, mechanic's way - clean up the threads, don't just bigger 'em up further - good on yer mate!

[@nykamp91]

Thank you :)

[@johnnysprocketz]

Thank you kindly for the lovely instruction, cheers mate!

[@daz0705]

ive got a couple of qustions mate if you dont mind, what do you think of the clutch cable to hydrolic convertions, do they make any defferance,, the second Q, i might of already asked you before, it doesnt seem to matter how clean i get my rear caliper and pistons it always seems to drag, , it's only really noticable when wheeling the bike backward, do you think it's time for new seals or maybe at least pop the piston out and clean behind the seals incase theres a build up of crud behind them,

[@Moonfleet41]

Is this on a Bonneville / Scrambler mate.?

[@daz0705]

no del i think the clutch cable hydraulic conversion kits from what i understand will fit any bike that has a cable clutch, you have to change your lever for one with a reservoir on it then run a hose to the engine casing where the clutch adjuster is then you fit the banjo on the other end to a sealed tube with a piston in it that converts the hydraulic movement to a bit of cable with a nipple on the end that locates where your normal clutch cable would , this is why i am wondering if it's of any use because it's only converting the lever to hydraulic converter not the actual inner mechanism, the sticky piston problem i have is on a baby varadero with a single piston nissin caliper, sorry it's not related to the video apart from caliper cleaning but wondered what you think might be the cause, and what your opinion of this converter for clutches is and if there was something i'm missing because they seem expensive for something if it's not going to make any difference,

[@Moonfleet41]

Daz, those pretend fluid clutch kits are a waste of money.. the clutch is still a cable clutch, you;re just making it more complicated for no reason.. not to mention the money... stick a Slinky Glide cabled on it buddy.. it's be much smoother and lighter, and takes five minutes.. With your back caliper, if you genuinely have done your best to clean it, then it may be time for a little refurbish... its no big shakes mate, you know we have a heap of videos to help you... and it'll make it a lot better...!! Before you take it all apart though...pump the piston out a bit, clean it all shiny, and smear some red rubber lube on it before you push it back in... it may work just to lube it up a bit..!!!

[@daz0705]

thanks Del just as i suspected about those clutch things, like you said its still a cable clutch, and cable clutched are tried and tested for years, i will order some red rubber lube first mate that rear caliper and piston is spotless, i would only get it cleaner in a sonic cleaner, my mate does have one he does tattoos but i dont think he would let me chuck bike parts in there lol, they probably wouldnt fit , thanks again

[@madmarkuk1]

could you show how much adjustment the clutch adjuster on the end nearest the engine needs im happy with handle bar adjuster but never adjusted the lower one. cheers and fantastic job

[@Moonfleet41]

Its not important how much or where it is adjusted to... set the bar adjuster to middle...and then take out the slack with the lower one, lock off the jam nuts... easy enough buddy.!

[@madmarkuk1]

Moonfleet41 thank you :-)

[@DougRansom1]

How long are your ECB discs lasting with the sintered pads? My original discs are nearing end of service at 20,000km. The previous owner put sintered pads on around $10,00km.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Doug, so what you're saying is that these discs have worn out in 6,000 miles? Or were they worn already when he put the pads in at 10,000km? That is a remarkably short time to chew through a disc, but it is possible if you brake mercilessly from high speed all the time... as with all consumables, there's no exact time they last, it's all dependent on usage, but for my own experience, it's clear that sintered pads do bear a little more harshly on the disc, certainly not as harshly as you've described, but it is a worthy trade off for the vastly improved braking efficiency that sintered pads deliver.

[@DougRansom1]

@@Moonfleet41 The discs are original, about 12,000 miles on them, and the pads about 6,000 miles. The discs are almost down to 5mm so I am trying to source EBC discs. I don't ride particularly hard but I wasn't fastidious about cleaning the brake discs last winter so that might not have helped.

[@Orenchis]

I bought and fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable in summer 2015 to the Hornet. I couldn't believe the difference. It's still silky smooth today and it only cost about £8 from Wemoto. Penny should find it moves really nice now. The better weather is coming, i've had 3 days in a row now without rain hahaha bring it on baby !

[@Moonfleet41]

Thats great news buddy... the clutch is so smooth and silky, and one finger pill... it'll make life so much easier in the gridlocked summer traffic we have down here....lol

[@mariuspike]

Hi Del and Penny Is a total pleasure to watch your videos. You are working so fine and carefully with great explications that i did t find anywhere (including service manuals :-D). Many thanks you both for dedication and time invested in this channel.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks Marius, you are very kind.. glad he videos can help you out. !

[@jimmyjimjim3054]

I put the HH pads on my Superglide that has TERRIBLE brakes. It actually stops now. I also use the HH's on my 675R track only bike. Awesome power and control.

[@Moonfleet41]

Yeah, it seems they actually have more grippy friction against the disc... and your Superglide has terrible brakes.. Harley brakes are character building mate...lol!

[@lsforce]

Hi Del, about "You don't need to open the brake fluid container when you are replacing pads" - there are some old bikes where is mandatory - I learned this the hard way on my old Kawasaki Gpz500: interestingly enough this bikes brake calipers does not have any brake retainer pins - you just push the pads in the caliper and hope for the best.... One fine day I got my brakes cleaned and brake fluid changed by a mechanic, but as he told me he was in a hurry because this day his wife went off the wrong side of the bike, the result was on the third intersection my brake pad flung out, I shat my pants and thanked God I have at least rear breaks and engine to stop the bike. I called the mechanic and he came five minutes later he was really sorry and explained to me that some bikes and particularly this one needs to have his brake fluid container open in order to seat the pad in the right way but he didn't do it because his wife and blah blah.... I have done some experiments later and can confirm he was right - it's not impossible, but it is extremely difficult to seat them right without opening the container.... (That's the reason I do service my bikes myself from then on...)

[@coltonwancho6571]

as far as brake fluid goes being Hydroscopic it all depends on the type of brake fluid. IE dot 3,4, or,5. dot 5 being used in majority of motorcycle not being Hydroscopic at all. although for 5 is a pain to bleed love holding that air lol. also I do agree on not opening your reservoir. spot on video over all good content and help full to most beginner and Experienced mechanic.

[@bxr779]

Hi Del, great video, thanks for sharing your experience! I followed your instructions to replace my 1050 speed triple's front brake pads with new ones. Almost everything went well, but while I was pushing in one of the cylinders in to the socket, it forced the next one a bit too far out, letting a bit of oil (guess brake fluid) out! I just pushed it in to stop the leak immediately, and carried out to finish the job. Everything seemed fine. When I went for a test ride, I realised my braking power's not as good as before with my old pads. I wonder if that leak is the reason for this? or it's just the new pads need to be broken in? Would appreciate your advice.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi mate, nothing to worry about, when a little fluid pops out, it doesn't necessarily mean air gets in, you could always bleed that caliper through a little if you're worried... the new pads will always be a little vague to start with, specially if the disc is slightly worn, because the pad is flat and the disc has grooves in it... once the soft pad material wears in to the shape of the grooves, you will have 100% contact and the braking will improve... good way to scuff them in is to pick a dry day and a straight, flat, empty road with no cars on, and get the bike up to about 50mph, and then do some heavy, progressive front braking, and I mean 'progressive', as in brake lightly and then progress more and more and more and then harder till the bike stops... (DON'T just slam the brakes on, even if you have ABS, it's not safe... and also don't brake vaguely as you ride along because you can overheat the discs and warp them)... you're just looking to put some initial wear on to the pads to break open the manufactured surface..... 4-5 good, stout, and heavy progressive brakes to a standstill from 50mph will scuff them in nicely and they'll work much better....... You can also tape your lever in to the bar overnight, not too tightly, just moderate pressure, and that will improve the feel at the lever and stiffen it up a light... just take tape off in the morning and pump the lever before you ride the bike.... That should work, let us know if you have any problems, good luck, Del

[@ride4adventure]

Really enjoying the new editing of these recent videos. Decided to add a Dyna Fat Bob to the garage and inspired to give a few upgrades and maintenance a go myself.

[@TheJackman88]

Hi Del. Another great video! :-) never thought about which way I face the slot in my clutch cable before. Great detail, been doing it wrong all this years xD quick tip on brake fluid; while going to dot 5 is a small nightmare, changing seals and so on, dot 5.1 is not. It's completely compatible with dot 4 and 3 systems, can be mixed with them without reacting, and still has a higher temperature rating then them. So should you ever feel the need for more degrees, I would say 5.1 is the way to go :-)

[@TheJackman88]

Coldfin9er Interesting, I did not know that... :-) After some Googleing it looks like the "super dot 4" fluids have a higher dry boiling temp, but can't make the wet temps of the 5.1 standard. So I guess "super dot 4" is better for track use with frequent changes, and 5.1 is better for hard road use / track days with longer change intervals?

[@TheJackman88]

Coldfin9er I just looked at the spec sheets, you're right. Never trust Google I guess... :-) But cool, learned something new today then. Awesome :-)

[@jamesweber4938]

Good point on pumping up the brakes in the garage after the jobs done. I forgot to do that on the wifes car after replacing the front rotors. The car hit the wooden shelves at the back of the garage and put a dent in the hood. I have replaced rotors many times over the years but it only takes one time to forget. Had the car been the other way round in the garage I probably would have gone right across the road before the brakes pumped up.

[@Moonfleet41]

Oh no... DOH...! hope its long enough ago to be funny now..!

[@jamesweber4938]

It was about a year ago.Good thing her car already had a few battle scars from the shopping malls !

[@jamesweber4938]

It took me longer to fix the busted shelves than it did to change the rotors.

[@Vlogbiker]

Couldnt agree more on the sintered pads and correct matched discs, Ive been working as a motorbike courier again and with that constant hard braking in the city I smelt the standard pads burning up on the first day that I started again, the brakes felt like a sponge (thankfully I had the new sintered pads and discs ready to go) I fitted the new set that night and new fluid dot4 full synthetic (higher fluid temperature rating) and complete clean and lube pretty much the same way as you showed here with a toothbrush etc. I dont care what it costs, brakes are your life! And I also agree dot5 means a complete change from what I remember dot3, dot4 & dot5.1 are mixable but dot5 is the odd one out and should be avoided completely. Correct me if I am wrong.

[@Moonfleet41]

Yes DOT5 is a different chemical make up, and doesn't just fail to mix, it actually forms obstructive lumps and adverse reaction between the two chemicals! YOu can switch from one to the other, but the very least you need to do is soak every part of the stripped down braking system in Propyl Alcohol before you re-assmble it, then new rubbers throughout... a lot of work!

[@spudlet366]

great video again guys! just put new seals in both my calipers on the Sv. found that my right hand caliper doesn't have that "springiness" that you mentioned last time. the left is fine. reckon it needs new rubber boots?

[@Moonfleet41]

It's all down to how clean and lubricated they are... you just need to be thorough, and if they have dirt in them they will jam up...

[@danparsonage3884]

Del I love the way you comment back at the keyboard warriors, for example what grease to use etc. Its nice to have a professional but honest take on how to get the job done.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks buddy, am glad you enjoyed it.

[@tonepalma]

It's been a while since I've seen your vids. Really digging the new intro, music, etc....And of course the detail and info of the work. Keep up the good work.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks buddy, good to hear it notices.. the post production for each video is up to about 16 hours now.. lots of work, but if you, the viewers enjoy it, then its worth it.!

[@quihendre]

After this video i said to myself when i need a clutch cable, i'm going for a slinky glide. I did, from wemoto, for the price, it's a must... It's realy a huge improvement on my zzr 600 clutch feel. Thanks for the tip!

[@Moonfleet41]

Awesome, thats great news mate, im so glad it was such a good upgrade for you.. thanks for the feedback..

[@michjo1]

Great video as ever Dell. Used it when replacing front wheel as bought new ones from Devon Wheelbuilding too. But I have a T100 which came with 19" front rims and now the original brake calliper won't fit without the disc rotor being loose. I guess that the T100 brake rotor is bigger than the 17" wheeled bikes. You heard of this before? The only solution I can think of is smaller diameter rotor and imagine I'll need new calliper. Help! (Please)!

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi buddy, not so sure why you are having this problem, Penny's Scrambler originally had a 19" rim and now has a 17" rim, also the rim is now 3.5" wide, but the disc is 310mm, so the same size as your T100... meaning, your caliper will fit without loosening the disc... you do have to feed it in a little carefully, and there is not a lot of clearance, but if you have a 17x3.5 rim on the standard factory disc your caliper fits!

[@michjo1]

Moonfleet41 I'll have another look - I will need to strip it down again. You're perfectly correct - I have the 3.5x17" Dirt Star rims.

[@markdavies2163]

Mate your videos are great. I’m new to motorcycling having been bottling it for 20 years 🤣 and really keen to learn how to look after my 2005 T100. Watched a few of your videos in recent days and learned so much already - thank you 👍

[@Moonfleet41]

Welcome aboard mate, and more importantly, welcome to the motorcycling family... here starts a great adventure for the rest of your life, glad the videos are a help, always feel free to get in touch if you need a second opinion you're stuck with, happy to help if I can... take care, Del

[@markdavies2163]

@@Moonfleet41 thanks mate - really appreciate it. I’m a professional filmmaker who specialises in video for learning and you and your mrs are doing a fab job with that too. Fair play to you both and for her for levelling up them skills 🥳🤩

[@Moonfleet41]

@@markdavies2163 Thank you so much Mark, Filming and post production is something we had to learn totally from scratch and improve along the way, it's not easy when nobody shows you and you just have to try and see what happens.. so it really great to get some cool feedback from a professional.. Keep safe and have a great Christmas.. D&Px

[@alfiedog2942]

Great very helpful video especially as I’m going to be fitting an extension kit on my bobber which includes clutch cable and brake cable 🙏

[@Moonfleet41]

Glad it helped, good with your project!

[@dddon513]

I just swapped my speed triple clutch cable for a magura hydraulic. The old cable one, even in perfect condition was nowhere near as easy and smooth.

[@springy-2112]

Quality ,sometimes we have to remember that your no 1 objective is to teach skills to riders starting to tackle service and maintenance jobs. .be they new to biking or new to tinkering..What a fine example you give ... 🌞

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you most kindly sir.. tiz the brand newbies that mean the most to us.!

[@DJShadow1966]

Couldn't agree more, always done my own maintenance where i could, but recently found i can tackle lots more thanks to the dedication of a couple of guys called Del and Penny, keep up the good work, and ignore the know-it-alls as always RSMFs

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks Ian, thats very kind buddy... we wouldn't do it if we didn't enjoy it !

[@catchbag1398]

Very informative. Im about to upgrade the front calliper to a pretech 6 pot. Hoping the difference is pisitive ☺

[@Moonfleet41]

I fitted some Pretech calipers on an old GSX11 many years ago, they were an astonishing upgrade, and very good quality, but the Triumph brakes are already very good, so there may not be such a vast difference, nevertheless, the build quality of Pretech is fabulous!

[@fastscout4079]

Firstly I enjoy your videos and tips. Copslip and dissimilar metals- alloy and steel/ stainless bolts. I’ve been advised not to use copper based grease but to use silver grease as the copper isn’t the correct grease and will hasten the eating away of the alloy, silver grease will stop any corrosion from the different metals.

[@walttanner5813]

Time stamp for the yellow grease is 13.34, you use it all the time for varius things . Oh, just founbd a deal on some tools, just want to amke sure ai am buytinmg the right tools for removing tires. Maximun Drive Tire Change Kit / 9 piece set. Inlcudes 1/2 drive torque wrench, 24' breaker bar, deep sockets and 5 " extention bar. Regular price $280.00 Canadian. Sale price $79.99 Canadian

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Walt.. ok, that grease is 'White Lithium Grease.. its waterproof and doesn't wash off with weather. its for hostile areas that get a lot of weather blasting. I can;t advise on the tyre change kit buddy, can;t see a link to it, is "Maximum Drive" the brand maybe..?

[@walttanner5813]

​@@Moonfleet41 That is the brand

[@Moonfleet41]

@@walttanner5813 OK, i can't find a link to it, and have never heard if it over here... do you have a direct link by any chance..?

[@walttanner5813]

@@Moonfleet41 www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-tire-change-kit-3991781p.html

[@Moonfleet41]

Ok, well it looks comprehensive enough, as long as it can cope with any wheel locking lugs that you may have then its fine. It was confusing when you posted "the right tools for removing tires".. obviously you meant changing wheels... i was looking for tyre irons and bead breakers...lol Also, if its for your car, does it not come with this kind of thing in the boot for changing a wheel..?

[@westieBrucedavidson]

once again.. top advice mate especially on the water content in the brake fluid man you should open a motorcycle technicians school and be the headmaster

[@Moonfleet41]

ha ha, thanks mate... they wouldn't have me, im not a technician, just a humble mechanic with some common sense... and we can all have that right..! cheers fellah. Del.

[@colinaitken741]

hi great video just about to first major service myself. could not hear audio well when you stated lube products used. could you confirm make and types? thanks for your help.

[@robertbrandywine]

There is no upgrade path for the T120 brakes yet, is there? I don't mean pads, I mean rotors and calipers.

[@Moonfleet41]

You dont need calipers Robert, i just did EBC discs and sintered pads... why not call Wemoto and ask them.. im sure they do them already..?

[@robertbrandywine]

I thought calipers (number and size) were a major factor in stopping ability. No? I may call Wemoto, thanks.

[@bristol8920]

Good video Del all shown on camera, not obstructed or too close , music o.k. too... .....have a G/day......

[@diamondheat9]

I was wondering about the Hex T-Handle you were using. Who makes it and is it a regular end or ball end?

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi there, it's a Torque Wrench actually, and has a range of fittings, you can put everything on the end of it, sockets, or any form of 6-sided bit, as it comes with a bit driver, 3/8 drive or 1/4 drive... here's a link: www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/Wiha-Torque-T-Handle-ST-Plus-TorqueVario-Set-29234?search=vario%20st&description=true

[@iritantNL]

i have been tinkering with bikes for 20 years. including changing discs.. and i have never seen them break if you use the correct torque even oem bolts..

[@Moonfleet41]

Thats right Arlo... they are deceptively low torque values.... all things that break are down to abuse or neglect right..?

[@iritantNL]

Moonfleet41 yes. some people just brute force tight things down.

[@tonyjeffery3]

Has definitely given me the confidence to tackle my brakes,,,,,, Thanks guys

[@federicocerbonim7654]

As always, very well explain. Why you change a solid rotor for another solid? and didn't use a floating?

[@Moonfleet41]

The bike has floating calipers, not need for a floating disc too..

[@federicocerbonim7654]

so you are going to cool down the rotor heat through the caliper, good... floating calipers help pads for a better and overall contact,. Brake main problems are heat and then pad contact.... any way I bought EBC floating for a brake up grade... cheers

[@markielarkie445]

What difference did the kit make to the brakes,as the disc is the same size as standard disc.

[@Moonfleet41]

As i explained in great detail at the end if you watched all of it... the Copper Sintered pads produce more abrasive drag, this, coupled with the matching EBC disc that resists the extra wear... gives you more stopping force for little money.!

[@XoC91]

My English is bad, i don’t understand which grease you prefere. Can you tell me please? And how do you grease your chain? With oil? I hope for an answer. Greets from Germany

[@paul9099]

hi dell great video i followed this to change my pad but i didnt put any rubber grease on the pistons will this matter or should i dismantle them and put some on ,also i have a wierd buzzing noise coming from the caliper as im going along is this the pads bedding in do you think,cheeers always great vids

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi buddy, no mate, once the seals come in to contact with some brake fluid, they'll slip back and forth just fine... you'll soon know if there's a problem as your brakes will bind... and the buzzing is quite normal on many braking systems, it's just the friction of the pad against the disc, specially if you've used sintered pads, but others do it too.

[@paul9099]

brilliant thanks

[@bielbills]

Del makes the process look like a surgery! Excellent! 👌

[@salpairadice]

Lots of great tips in the video. I thought I was doing a great job but Delboy raised my bar.

[@lecmslpmex]

What kind of grease did he use on the caliper pistons?

[@e.g.5806]

Delboy, how are those Tec rear shocks holding up? I'm considering pulling the trigger on a pair, but I just cannot get passed how cheap they are compared to other piggybacks ....

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Eric... we changed the TEC shocks for some YSS units last year, but they did 5k miles with absolutely no issues, and rode lots better then the factory ones in every way.. the only reason we changed them was to give more adjustability, the bike now days has a very light weight rider, and she likes the suspension damping set up really soft, the YSS units gave both rebound and compression damping, as well as preload... but the TEC shocks were still good, and the finish lasted 4 years like they were still knew..! hope that helps buddy, if you have any doubt, why not call George Milburn at TEC Bike Parts, and ask him any questions you may have. he's a really nice guy and happy to help.... Good luck with it.. Del.

[@JasonRobbins71]

Is there any reason why you don't put copper grease on the back of the pads?

[@alexdekegel5358]

I also thought there must copper grease on the pads. is' nt that?

[@deanchild9848]

I think some pads come with copper backing which I think you do not need to apply copper slip, but i maybe be wrong.

[@Moonfleet41]

It is not always necessary, it is there to absorb the supper high frequency vibration caused on solidly mounted calipers that manifest itself as a 'squeal'... slide mounted calipers usually don't suffer from this, however, if you expereicen a little squeal, then add some to the back of the pads! It is a remedy, not a standard practice...

[@alexdekegel5358]

Ok seems clear to me ! thanks a lots , greetz Alex

[@darkmind9244]

so much triumph nostalgia. It makes me feel like it must be time for an FRO :P

[@simonrussell4468]

Just been told that the front disc is warped on my 2015 T100 . After watching your vid I’m going to have a bash at fitting a new one myself. I must have missed it but what was the disc you used? I can see it’s an EBC but what model? Thanks so much for these vids. It feels like you get so more out of your bike when you can complete these tasks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Simon... sorry to hear you have to replace your disc.. in this video i used the basic EBC solid disc, (left side) from Wemoto.com.. if you call them up and tell them what bike you have, they will send you the correct disc that will be a direct replacement for your factory disc.. tell them you saw this video and they'll know what you need... Hope that helps. Good Luck.. Del.

[@simonrussell4468]

Moonfleet41 wow that was a quick reply 😊 thanks Del appreciate it. I’ll get right on it

[@Moonfleet41]

Ha ha, no worries buddy, tell the guys we said hi... good luck with it and drop us a line if you get stuck aye.. .Del.

[@Deehornet]

Bom dia Mr, qual o nome do produto que foi utilizado no disco de freio no final do video ? muito boa a aula. Abraços

[@Moonfleet41]

É freio mais limpo, meu amigo ... você pode comprá-lo em qualquer loja automotiva e é ótimo para limpar freios a qualquer momento! Obrigado!

[@colintaylor3640]

Brilliant video as usual Del, in depth explanations in all procedures, keep them coming, fantastic work.

[@chrisporter7694]

Hi Del, really enjoying your videos. Is the replacement Front Disc you are using on the Scrambler suited to the Triumph Amercia Model ? Thanks

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Chris, Yes it should be mate... contact Wemoto direct and just order the correct EBC disc for your bike, and they'll send you the right one..!

[@drewpzoot]

Thank you very much for simply explaining that. Very interesting. Bright, well recorded, informative videos fella. Well done. Ps, LOVE your workshop dude 😍👏🏻👌🏻✌🏻

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks buddy, we put the time in to make a half decent video, so it's great to see that it's enjoyed!

[@suzuki750stu]

another really enjoyable video, just a quick question, are all the torque settings for the brakes etc the same for all bikes or do they differ? regards Stu

[@Moonfleet41]

Not all bikes Stu, they'll differ depending a lot on things like the bolt thickness and pitch... so always check mate.! plenty of info online..

[@ronalmon3319]

Love the wheels...kind of the same on my 48..the gold chain and new fixtures looks great....how long before you take it back from Penny? Lol

[@Moonfleet41]

Naah, its Penny's for life... id have spent all the money on the engine instead...lol

[@TroubadourJuggernaut]

anyone who would "critique" the job you just did (or any of them) need to have their heads checked, I have never seen anyone do this level of excellent service, finicky work.

[@Icanreadgood1]

you're an excellent mechanic.

[@patronyk1]

Can you use dot 4 brake fluid in dot 3 brakes?

[@Moonfleet41]

Dot 3 and Dot 4 brake fluid are compatible, the 4 just has a higher boiling point, so yes, but dot 3 has been out of use for a long time, so it's maybe an old braking system?, so make sure you check all perishables in the system to make sure it's sound..!

[@thomaskall1421]

Very good and informative video as they are every time. I even run them in the garage sometimes. I’m worried about your hands as you are in contact with every grease without gloves, can leave you with problems in years to come.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you Sir, appreciate your concern, I like to consider that I am now, currently, living in those years to come as have been doing this for over 30yrs, in my early days doing it for a living, we used barrier cream constantly and these days I wash my hands constantly between stages of any job, doing ok, no real problems, just taking care as I need to.

[@geryp9870]

Hi Del, what tool did You used for thread cleaning ?

[@deanchild9848]

Another great video Del thank for sharing once again.

[@PJF62]

(p) That was an excellent production, very easy to watch and listen to. Also, that front disc looks so 'Industrial', fits the bike perfectly, it's heritage, it's persona. One of your best productions guys, my my you have come a long way.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you so much my friend, you are very kind... we are so glad that it shows, the post-production time on this, and the previous 2 videos, was over 16hrs sat at the computer, so they really a lot of work now... but so worthwhile when it's appreciated so much... thank you for watching!

[@suzirida1]

What was the disc and brakes combo called please? Thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Been skipping the video then?! Said it penty of times mate... , EBC disc, copper sintered HH pads... it's all in there, just have tehe patience to watch as it takes ME longer to answer questions on things I answered clearly in the video!

[@Clewes98]

Alright Del, what was the brand of chain lubricant you were on about in the other vid. Can remember is you said it or not.

[@Moonfleet41]

Its "Wurth Dry Lube" buddy... most bike shops sell it, or Wemoto etc.

[@Titainium-gz5gj]

Ha, del that's right, I put my rocket 111 on one of those lifts. And take it from me I use straps!!!

[@paulryan1727]

Just a question I saw that you used copper with steel bolts on aluminum. I read recently that copper and Alu don't mix well (chemical reaction) Am I reading bull or have I missunderstood what I read?

[@JoshQuake]

I recently made the discovery that WD-40 Brake Cleaner doesn't exist in Canada, only the UK and Italy. Any Canadians know a good alternative? I heard the Brakleen green can which is non-chlorinated is good. Any recommendations? I'm making a shopping list for greases/cleaners/parts I will need before riding season starts.

[@carlosdaguzzi9340]

Boa noite. Quando largo só um pouco a embreagem da minha moto, a moto solavanca, não é linear o motor treme tambem. É uma apeed twin com 6 meses. 4000 km. Sempre fez isto. Mas nao acho normal. Que pode ser? Muito obrigado