Mopar 360 Build Part 4: Back from Machining

[@ninjapumkin]

Great to see you return and looking good. Helped a buddy build his 360 LA this summer and got it fired up last week. First question I had for him was, what and how do you want to drive. He said a cruiser. So I did 9:1 and mild cam and he is happy. That’s all he wanted. No EFI and I have it tuned to start up at first crank. Easy peezy and he can cruise the street using pump gas

[@DustorBust]

Hi Ninjapumkin! Thanks, yeah was nice to get a little progress on the Duster, thanks for watching! Glad to hear he was happy with the 9:1. Hopefully with some good tuning it should be more than enough for a fun street car.

[@IronHorseGarage]

Great stuff!!! Going to be awesome!!!

[@DustorBust]

Thanks Iron Horse!!

[@rodneybyrd9516]

Same rings as a 350 Chevy and many others with a 4" standard bore and 5/64" rings. I bet they can overnight them or have them the same day possibly of you order really early. Looks great, the parts look properly machined and cleaned!

[@DustorBust]

Hi Rodney, thanks for watching! I didn't realize the Chevy 350 was 4", good to know. The shops actually did have the standard, but I needed the 4.060. Luckily summit gets parts here in 1-2 days. Yeah, the machine shop seems to have done good work. 😃

[@rodneybyrd9516]

@@DustorBust Even the Magnum 5.9/360 uses metric rings that match a late Ford 302/5.0, which I have used to save $$$ and time. Same rings!

[@MuscleCityMadness]

Hey good to see you back i've missed your vids man! Exiting Stuff man!

[@DustorBust]

Thanks buddy! I appreciate the support. 😃

[@moparnut6286]

Nice work!

[@DustorBust]

Thanks Moparnut!!

[@brianwil89]

As close as you are to Summit you should be able to get some rings next day. Keep up the good work.

[@DustorBust]

Hey B Dubs!! Thanks😀. Yeah, summit came through pretty quickly. Hoping to spend a good chunk of the weekend making progress.

[@bobstepanovich8466]

glad to see you back! Was missing your videos. They inspire me to get out there and work on my stuff. I never heard of or saw anyone use dry graphite as an assembly lube - interesting. Is there any benefit over petroleum based assembly lube?

[@DustorBust]

Hi Bob, thanks for watching! I appreciate the support, glad I can help inspire you to work on your stuff. Good question on the graphite. The assembly book I am using, "How to rebuild a small block Mopar" by Burt, calls for it. I honestly did not do the research on best lube options. I can say that it does seem to have more resistance than a traditional petrol based assembly lube when cold. Per quick Google search it looks like it is supposed to work well under high heat and also be more resistant to dust and debris contamination. Not sure what is better, but when in doubt I am following the book! Thanks for the comment, it helps keep me motivated! 😃

[@Scott-qe6ih]

Yeah, dry assembly, graphite or not, just makes me cringe. Use a good lube, or even regular oil if you have to. I've NEVER assembled one dry like that before. Hope is doesn't spin a bearing on startup! It also sound like the machine shop owes you a set of rings!

[@DustorBust]

Hi Scott. Yeah, I was a little pissed about those rings for a while, but after thinking about it for a bit they would have had to take them off to balance the assembly. I personally would be ok removing and reinstalling but I have heard some people say not to because of the flexing involved in installing/deinstalling. I think it would have been fine though. So the car tech booked called for the dry graphite lube. I did a bit of digging and did not find any other resources recommending this. Based on the experience of the book author I am sure it will be fine, but I will definitely take the traditional assembly lube approach next time. I think where the dry lube can be beneficial is on engines that will sit for a long time before running. Thanks for checking out the channel!