More Fails - My Lotus Elise Still Not Driving

My Elise is still broken.. in this episode I change the Slave cylinder, then the Master Clutch cylinder and still it won't engage gears. Everything is pointing towards and issue with the clutch itself.. but that is almost new!

[@Laz_Arus]

07:11 As an Aussie, I really appreciate the effort you put in to accommodate our needs Downunder. 😁

[@Number27]

🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@brianweekes1]

This is so much more realistic than other car DIY mechanic videos. I can imagine going thru this myself. Do re-check those gear linkages, before working on the clutch, fit the new cables, you never know. I had one cable end come off, and instantly thought the clutch had gone!

[@ryanmccormick2150]

I love the way you tackle problem Jack! You think things through and check as you go, the big one is your always positive! Keep it up buddy 😉

[@byronmills5952]

I still maintain that your clutch actuating fork arm has fractured and bent and isn't actuating the release bearing. Possibly it was hairline cracked prior you fitting the slave stiffening bracket - and the extra linear pushrod force from the reinforced slave has finally bent/ twisted it beyond it being able to operate the clutch properly.

[@adriancoppola3729]

Had that on my Mini Cooper S many many years ago! Competition clutch spring didn’t help and the actuating lever fractured and I practiced clutchless gear changes for a little while!!

[@carlwilliams3488]

I'm going to go with this as the diagnosis. It was my gut feeling once the hydraulics were proven not to be at fault. A replacement clutch fork is a recommendation when replacing the clutch on my Chimaera and my old Subaru as they do bend and break. Might as well replace the clutch while in there too.

[@jasperdemann]

Yup....⬆this⬆! Sorry! 😄

[@SPC22]

Yeah, I think Byron is bang on....just seems too coincidental for the clutch to go like that, with the car just sitting there, and the actuator has been m=played around with.

[@MrManBuzz]

It's either this or the throwout bearing itself.

[@bobmcl2406]

Jack, it is a pleasure to empathize with you virtually. You are just doing regular car guy things, and that strikes a chord with those of us who get our fingers dirty. Never change!

[@TheMrFishnDucks]

Loving these vlogs. The editing and pacing makes these fun to watch. Looking forward to more videos with this car in the series.

[@brooksyc5599]

Great video Jack. Love it, your always working on your own vehicle's at home and show the failures and success, keep up the good work.

[@LotusElise]

Elise owner here ( 2x S1). When you bleed the clutch cylinder, the cylinder fork has to be "retracted". Remove the pin between the cylinder fork and clutch arm, then fix the fork with some strong cable ties towards the slave cylinder. Bleed like this, then reconnect the pin

[@LZ6U]

The NA/NB miata is a bit like this. I cooked the fluid in my slave cylinder letting the 2.4L engine idle for a bit too long (downpipe related thermal management issue) while I washed the car. WIth a new slave cyl installed the bleeding process wouldn't work until I manually pressed the release lever into the slave cyl to force the cylinder to the extreme range of motion/travel. I had to eject the air out the bleed port. The slave cylinder does not necessarily rest in a fully retracted position when just touching the release lever. I didn't know this detail about the slave cylinder. I wasted an hour or more before I engaged the brain drive and did what you noted above which of course worked a treat.

[@Laz_Arus]

@@LZ6U HI, I wasn't aware of a 2.4L option for the MX5. Perhaps you meant 2.0L4 ?

[@LZ6U]

@@Laz_Arus It isn't a Mazda BP or B6 based engine any longer. I bought the car without an engine to do a swap. The GM engine code is LE5 which is a 2.4L VVT 16V engine from at least a dozen boring GM products. My header was actually intended for a Polaris Slingshot which also used a nearly identical GM engine. Super common engine with both turbo and supercharged 2.0L variants.

[@Laz_Arus]

@@LZ6U Seems like a suitable engine to swap, and one I wasn't aware of. If you can coax 200whp from it you should have a lot (more) fun than normal. 👍

[@geoffmarsh7986]

Amazed at 3.50mins (and again at 5.53mins) when you dropped the spanners, you didn't say 'oh, bo***cks', as I would have done. Well done. Very interesting detailed video. I predict a John Cleese moment arriving, thrashing his poor Austin 1100, great car. Looking forward to the next episode.

[@bdlii]

Now this is the Jack I met while watching the Influenzo. Always fixing it and perplexed by the next challenging problem. :)

[@davethornewell7417]

I worked in a MG/Rover franchise for 47 years, and came across a number of bent clutch forks, often the fork spindle seized, the customer stamped on the pedal to release the clutch and bent it. I recall some of the gearbox bell housings having replaceable bushes

[@OpticalMan]

Having owned a Lotus Excel I can confirm that there is a name for being upside down with your head jammed against the pedals, your bum on the seat back and your feet half out the door- The Lotus Position!

[@billmaloney6077]

Jack, It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging, but I'm not clear if it slips a little when fully depressed, or not at all The disc might possibly be stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. If so there is a way to free it up. Start it and let it get good and hot, til the fans are kicking in. Then roll it onto the road or a quiet drive where you can drive it. Start it in 2nd gear and drive it with your left foot on the clutch pedal. Alternate hitting the gas and brake with your right foot. If it is stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate, after enough cycles that should flex the disk enough to break it free. Just be careful where you are driving it and stay close to home. Try that before you start work on pulling the clutch out. Good Luck!

[@simonsimpson4695]

It will all be worth it when you are haring along a twisty country lane driving that beautiful machine and all troubles forgotten. I recommend a few days in North Norfolk and it will all be a hazy memory.

[@bleakrevel]

I think the failures is what I watch for. There is then the promise that one day it might be fixed. I will definitely tune in next time for an update. It really doesn’t matter if you fix it as long as you take us along for the ride.

[@darylwalford8697]

Hi Jack, It's possible that because the car hasn't been driven all that much that the clutch plate has rusted onto the input shaft causing it to stick, whoever installed the clutch should have put some anti seize grease on the shaft but if they didn't it can rust. Only way to find out is to pull it apart.

[@Number27]

Hey Daryl, I’ll see when I open it up!

[@greyknightsrealm8251]

When I had a local small garage do my S1 clutch he was able to just take the gearbox and clutch out, it wasn't an engine out job, he didn't remove the rear clam either. Cost me about £400, he was also replacing the release fork at the same time.

[@mansfield1971]

Cheers for showing me how to do the jobs I may need to do.....every cloud and all that 😁

[@antimattergarage8147]

I had a similar problem in my 2zz swapped MR2 Spyder. I was told that the clutch had become shaped like a potato chip because I had perhaps rested during the struggle to get it in (which I did). I didn't have the patience to deal with it again so I brought it to a transmission shop. They pulled out the aftermarket clutch, measured it and said it was perfectly straight. Despite this, replacing the clutch with a Toyota clutch solved the problem. Go figure. So yeah, I believe it IS your clutch.

[@MrCarrera28]

I know it is unrelated but the doors on your garage look fantastic and add a really stylish look to the man cave!!

[@Number27]

Ha!!! Thanks chap. Hope all good!

[@timdunn2387]

I am going to go out to the shed and give my 2016 MX5 a big hug, and some nice fresh oil and a new filter for dessert. Such a good reliable thing he is.

[@jonlee6053]

I had a similar situation a number of years ago, changed the slave cylinder to no avail etc. Once access to the clutch was gained it turned out that one of the clutch locator dowels had come out of the flywheel and had jammed the clutch plates together!

[@simonroyle2806]

I've replaced clutches on MGF and Freelander which are both the PG1 and near identical to yours. Had something similar with the FL with the hydraulics having replaced the clutch, what I found was that if I put a long steel pipe over the clutch arm I was able to manually prove the clutch was working OK (you feel the clutch compressing) so therefore it must be hydraulics. I lengthened the push rod and hey presto all was OK. If you do have to change the clutch then get a drilled clutch arm (so you can grease it) as the standard ones have a habit of jamming in the bell housing. Separately on the MGF the hydraulics failed when a rodent ate the rubber boot, but looks like we can discount that!

[@gazzafloss]

A real conundrum Jack. I had a similar situation on a Discovery D1 I bought sight unseen and had to drive it home 1800klm with no clutch. The release arm had cracked on one side where it forks, no extra noises, just reduced travel at the release bearing.

[@TM-on4jl]

Jack...Tough going I know but this is what makes your videos so interesting...Keep Rocking...

[@iansmeath8674]

Damn that is so frustrating Jack! I wish you good luck in the coming days.

[@latitude9.5north54]

Early Volvo 140s had a "stamped" steel release arm. They would crack and the arm would bend rather than forcing the rb into the pressure plate.

[@autoavids]

I had a similar issue in another car, it turned out the fork was bent and the clutch was fine. Best of luck whatever the case 👍

[@honorharrington4546]

1994 ford explorer 5 speed manual. In order to completely bleed the clutch I had to remove the master, line, and slave, nail the whole system to a board with the line stretched out as much as possible and the slave at the top. Exercising the system while knocking on the line and other parts for 20 minutes finally got all the air out. All because Ford decided to run the line down one side of the frame rail, then up and over to the other side at the bell housing, creating a big air trap. Remember when adjusting the brake and clutch pushrods that they MUST have the slightest bit of free travel.

[@busterboy7505]

I agree with Brian David this is more realistic, with every part fitted and every bleed done I was just hoping that’s it surely, 😫, but look on the bright side, it’s going to be another great video, we are with you Jack, keep filming, you got to love this guy 👍👍👍.

[@steved7085]

Last year I had the red plastic clutch hose replaced on my S1 with a braided type. A big improvement in peddle pressure and feel, resulting in better gear changes. Regardless of the current root cause, it's absolutely worth doing.

[@catxls1835]

It looks cool whilst standing still my friend. I do love your new easy bleed kit. I am learning a lot more about the Elise build from your video's, even though I will probably will never need to use you excellent advice!! You will get to the bottom of the problem!! Great video man! Thumbs up!

[@davidfoster1762]

Wish you luck in resolving the problem , I haven’t a clue what is . I’m sure that somewhere in the advice you receive there is the solution.

[@jimamizzi1]

This thing is fighting, but good old jack soldiers on with that big smile.

[@lindsaysmith7014]

I’ve just done an MGF with exactly the same problem and it was the bearing fork. Remember and get the replacement fork with the grease nipple to ensure it doesn’t try and seize up in the future

[@dalemanolas5994]

The clutch fork may be bent, cracked or it may have developed some flex in it. I would definitely replace the clutch fork when you do the clutch. If you can get visibility then inspect the travel of the clutch fork rather than the slave cylinder rod. See if the visible part of the clutch fork is actually moving as far as it can (check that travel against a functional Elise if possible). In the past, to test this travel on a very rare car, I have welded an extension onto an old slave cylinder rod to get full movement of the fork (of course this was just for diagnosis). If you are already getting full fork travel then the issue is either a bent fork or with your clutch and pressure plate. If in any doubt at all, replace the fork when you replace the clutch. Forks tend to not be that expensive and it can save you from the devastating prospect of having to do the clutch job twice. Good luck!

[@dalemanolas5994]

BTW a bent clutch fork is very possible given that your slave cylinder mounting was flexing under pedal load and applying force to the fork through an incorrect angle.

[@rickydub6950]

Think you have ruled all else out now man, good luck and look forward to the next episode 👍

[@andybakr]

Jack, I told you to check out the rubber pipe from the reservoir to clutch the slave at the front. Change this cheap pipe. You normally find this solves the problem.

[@terrykelk12]

Sorry to see your woes but I have suffered this problem many many times in the past with the MGF's and looks to me like you have the K series engine still fitted with the usual MGF slave cylinder. In my experience this problem is more common when a brand new aftermarket clutch is fitted as the travel needed by the fingers of the pressure plate to allow the drive plate to free, exceeds the travel available in the hydraulic system.

[@andrewshelley410]

We just measured the throw on a working S1 and its a generous 18mm. Even at that it can occasionally be a bit of a pig to get into 1st. Not sure how helpful that is but there you go, oh and mine passed it's MOT today so we're celebrating.

[@samcourt6228]

It’s a very accurate depiction of what it’s like working on your cars yourself; wasted time, contorting yourself into awful positions. All that’s missing is the swearing and tots being thrown out of the pram! 😂

[@tides2002]

The PG1 gearbox clutch arm is known to seize, even if this isn’t the issue whilst the gearbox is removed from the engine it would be worth considering replacing the arm with an upgraded unit that has a grease nipple on it so it can be lubricated.

[@oktanskisindrom]

Hydro cilinders can be rebuilded, I took it to the shop and they did that for me. It cost only 25€ for both. The car is Elise s1. I had same bleeding problem, one small buble left in master cilinder. I bet there is same problem.

[@justinjoyit13]

Well it's a puzzler- although it may not be the clutch itself as it would slip or if it had broken a piece off it would be noisy as hell... but does it have a throw out fork???? An exterior slave cylinder usually means that it does. It looks a different set up to the Celica which I believe has the slave and bearing in one, inside the bell housing. I have a T Sport but not changed the clutch so I am not positive on that-hopefully not now I've said that either- touch wood. Anyway- if there is a slave cylinder like the Elise looks to be set up, then that pushes a throw out fork inside the bell housing on the throw out bearing. These can bend and I have had them bend on an old car I had, in fact had more than one bend. All it takes is a few mil, and - no clutch. Makes no odds really as the gearbox needs out, (unless there is an access plate big enough to get the fork out which they are not usually) and may as well change the clutch etc while you're there- but my two cents is, it's the fork.

[@mriamilne]

Great vid, Ja k. Keep them coming. I have owned several Loti, but Elans. They were not any easier in some ways than your Elise!

[@drivelaughing7905]

I agree with some of the other comments. It sounds more like a gearbox issue rather than clutch. Have a similar problem with my xtype. Thought it was a clutch problem, but it looks like it's a selector issue. Apparently a common issue with that gearbox. The broken clutch fork suggestions could be a good shout. Unfortunately the only way to know is to get in there 😕

[@humourless682]

Hydraulic parts either work or dont work, changing them won't provide more clutch travel. I would guess a failed release bearing, has damaged the fingers of the clutch diaphragm, which will mean the clutch needs replacement.

[@midasracer]

Check the throw with another Lotus, I had a similar issue, in the end down to the slave cylinder (on a Mini engine). I believe the throw of my new slave cylinder is around 20mm. Also found that the actuating arm had worn and had a crack. Worth checking that arm as well, should be easy to remove.

[@bongofury3176]

I nearly bought an Elise in 2003. I ended up buying an EP3 Type-R Civic. Phew - not a single problem in 13 years and 225k of hard driving. I suspect it would have been a different story with an Elise...

[@T16MGJ]

But not the special Elise driving experience.. Phew.

[@joachimkazmaier]

Never seen bone-dry master or slave cylinders fail. I'd guess it`s something else, most likely the actuating fork arm.

[@MrManBuzz]

Could be the throwout bearing is gone, but they usually make noise when they're failing/have failed so it's hard to know. Either way, I don't envy having to do the clutch on it. Doesn't seem like an easy job. Especially not with basic tools and equipment.

[@asdreww]

I think I posted on your last vid, but again, this is the EXACT symptoms I had on my Toyota when the nearly new Exedy clutch disk catastrophically failed/shattered around the damping springs- right down to it sometimes being able to start in gear with clutch down, only dragging slightly (because of the random way the shattered disk had aligned itself). I went through changing all the hydraulics then, and the only other thing I could think had happened was the clutch fork itself had broken, or the fork pivot was broken/worn, bit it looked fine on an endoscope.

[@TK42138]

Those symptoms are very similar to a damaged clutch release fork - which might have fatigue cracked or distorted thus preventing full travel of the release bearing.

[@jteddy11]

Me, I would take it out of the garage to the street so you can start it in gear again and drive it around the block, and go thru some gears and not be gentle, to free it up. Finicky clutch needs a little bashing.

[@robertalan1]

The shift levers. Check the backup detents and other pins that move under the shift lever.

[@eze8970]

Not something silly like the clutch pedal itself, or a bracket it sits on moving, or something in the gearchange mechanism you can see if you take the gaiter/surround off? Just trying to tick off every other option! Best of luck with it Jack, but it always makes great content, & you still keep smiling!

[@Number27]

Thank you chap!!!

[@evertdevries8814]

Hmmm... You've got a split hose too. Try and freeze at 4:12. Just above where the spanner shaft changes from smooth to knurled there's a crack in the hose with the bend in it. This is the first video of yours about the Lotus that I've watched so I don't know what it's particular woes are, but that must surely become an issue if it isn't already one.

[@Number27]

Thats a coolant pipe but I’m pretty sure that’s just a moulding line and not a crack. Thanks for watching Evert!

[@peterushbrook5270]

Old mechanic's trick. Pump the clutch pedal about 40 times and then walk away for a half hour. It's what we had to do at the Jeep dealer to get the XJ hydraulics to work properly after a component replacement regardless of all the bleeding we did first.

[@danperrett7225]

It is possibly the clutch arm is either seized and/snapped at the pivot point.

[@markonmotoring]

Well Jack that car is proving to be a labour of love but I suppose that's to be expected when you buy the cheeper one you could find. Keep the faith, your doing a great job. By the way, new garage looks awesome.

[@Lee-mn748]

Had a similar issue on my mini cooper the clutch release fork had cracked & bent making it difficult to select a gear due to the reduced travel against the release bearing.

[@emma.j.nation]

Can you get hold of one of those fibre optic endoscopes to have a look inside the bellhousing and see what’s going on? I got a cheapo eBay one that connects to my phone and it’s great for this sort of thing.

[@michaelpegasiou4531]

This thing is possessed ,good luck with the clutch just think of all the videos this car is giving you 😉

[@Phiyedough]

I think I would use the old slave cylinder to experiment a bit. If you remove the rod and replace it with a length of threaded bar you could perhaps determine how much movement would release the clutch. You might be able to do that without disturbing the hydraulics if the new slave can be moved to one side.

[@paulriggers1558]

you need to start a "book" on what the problem is, winner get something tatty. my guess, release bearing displaced, or the clutch-fork bolt loose/snapped [and a little bit corrosion thrown in for good measure] you should be able to get the box [only] out on your own, but getting back in will be a struggle keep up the good work jack

[@supercomp7078]

I feel your pain, on one of my old cars it was a full days job just to get to a point where you could get the engine gearbox out, if there was a gearbox issue it got a new clutch and pressure plate if it needed it or not, and the they were both custom made jobs, but it was better than replacing the box only to have to replace the clutch 6 months later, as ManBuzz says, was there a whine from the release bearing, although that should not affect the clutch throw unless there is an issue with the fork

[@bleakrevel]

I remember a brake engineer once telling me that air sticks to the metal cylinder much better than to the fluid. He wasn’t sure how it ever all comes out.

[@steffydog]

Chin up, you’ll get there 🏁👍

[@hondamonkeyboy]

Jack, as ever I have to say that you have the patience of Job.

[@jamestudoseartimon]

Jack, I have a clutch alignment tool i can let you borrow (well actually its specifically a self adjusting clutch SAC fitting and removal tool) so its made for clutch cover plates that have the ratcheting self adjustment mechanisms to install them properly so they are set up correctly. I think that is an LUK design for clutches. I think i live near you as I recognise places in your videos

[@Number27]

Can you message me on Instagram James?

[@chrisdarke]

You need to invest in a powered ratchet wrench, it’s a life saver in tight spaces!! I had an ACDelco one and it was built like a tank, highly recommended!

[@dari7237]

Laughing heartily. I remember not so fondly spending half a day on a couple of bolts on the S1, also upside down. Top tip, lay a low table beside the door opening to reduce the contortions. If you're taking the rear clam off, be prepared for job creep. I ended up refreshing the rear wishbones, suspension, ball joints etc. Unsure what else could be causing the clutch failure 😔

[@timphoto83ec]

Clutch fork and or bearing. Do both and check clutch and oil seal while there. If iit were mine i would pull the engine out to do it but then im handy with a spanner and enjoy such things............

[@yellowbird8690]

Try this; first get a plank of wood just long enough to push the peddle fully in and wedge against the seat to hold the peddle in. Then undo the union at the master cylinder. Look for bubbles. Do up the union. Remove the plank and allow the peddle to come up. {on MG TF, you have to pull it up} Now bleed the slave cylinder using the plank to hold the peddle as you open the bleed nipple. Bleeding the master cylinder first was the key point I was missing when I had trouble doing my clutch on my MG TF. (I think my first mistake was taking the rusty bleed nipple out, allowing rust to fall inside, and so blowing the seals.)

[@PorscheDiddy]

I appreciate all the effort you are doing and it's interesting to watch but at this point I would have taken the car to a car repair shop :D

[@thedetailingdoctor5746]

I saw the tomato today 😁 what a character!

[@Number27]

Ah really?? Where?

[@thedetailingdoctor5746]

@@Number27 our friend in common 😉

[@catxls1835]

I also have never seen a clam shell removed. That will be very interesting.

[@vincentbarnes7839]

love your videos they make me laugh all the positions you get into lol lol

[@bjmullan]

I feel your pain. Good luck!

[@ernieleithes6545]

Ian get someone to press clutch with the engine running hold it down then you should try to push the clutch arm with a lever to see if you can get more movment if you can ask other person to try it in gear hope this makes sense if it goes in gear it proves its still hydraulics.good luck mate.

[@stupidearthling9126]

Does the peddle feel as stiff as normal - I replaced the seals on both the Master and Slave (about £10) on my Chimaera this weekend. Had the wife pumping the clutch while I bled the slave. It took 8 or 9 attempts of constantly topping up the reservoir to get all the air out after which the peddle suddenly firmed up. You could be just a few air bubbles from success - Good luck!

[@craftingmat5425]

Ooooh.... I like this Elise so much. Content very appreciated! Not sure why you gave up on the Angle - this seems to be some legit reason as well? But we will see! I removed the front clam on my S2 Elise (Cooling System preventive maintenance) a few years back and it was a 6hrs job (I was very careful with it and I took the time I needed to feel comfortable with that task - I am sure you can do this much faster). I was really thinking about converting it to a hinge system, which also exists for the back clamshell... maybe you take a 2nd thought about it? I think this comes in very handy if you want to service anything on the little lump. Looking back I regret not having done that. Keep on going with this great content... exactly what I want to see... really great!

[@andrewausterfield6710]

Wow, you need to work through more diagnostics rather than just throwing parts at it. If air/ hydraulics was your issue you'd likely be able to overcome this by simply pumping the pedal, provided there's no leak in the system. If that didn't work then you might think that the seal in the master had failed but as you're getting movement at the slave that is unlikely but not impossible. Have you checked the lever that the slave is pushing? Have you managed to bend it so although you're getting the right throw on the cylinder it's still not working the clutch correctly?

[@andrewausterfield6710]

To see if you have a leak in the master - Pump the pedal then find a way to hold it at the bottom of its travel - go look at the slave. It should be fully extended. Come back an hour later, if you have a leak the slave will have retracted because the master seals can't hold the pressure

[@andrewcordery6157]

Elises have a flexible rubber hose that expands and swells when it gets old, you will be loosing movement due to this

[@T16MGJ]

Not difficult to eliminate or confirm fracture Bell Housing Crank. Remove spring retaining pin and cotter pin. Jack had to do that to fit the new Slave Cylinder. Then with the Crank Release Lever free from the slave, operate it by hand. Then report back. Worth doing that just in case there is nothing wrong with the clutch. A similar arrangement on many PG1 Gearboxes has stress fractured around where the Crank Lever is welded to the Release Shaft on the outside of the Bell Housing. If that is the case, you can get it welded up without much need to remove stuff. If that welding access is not possible, then yes a gearbox off job and in that case, fit a new three-piece clutch kit anyway. I believe they are the same as fitted to many MGs and Rovers with the PG1 Gearbox and K-Series engines/ So need not be expensive ... it has been widely fitted to many MGFs/TFs with the same mid-engine, rear wheel drive configuration. My MGF I sold recently had 120,000 miles and still on original clutch. Some car users are habitually heavy on clutches, particularly those with little or no mechanical .. sympathy.. In any event Jack, when the problem is ID-ed please let us know. That way we all learn.

[@Number27]

You can’t move the clutch lever by hand!! It’s way too stiff!

[@chrissimmonds3844]

The wheeltrim hanging on the wall next to the window looks like it's from an Alfasud. (I had a 75 Sud.)

[@EliteRock]

Well, assuming it's a common-or-garden diaphragm spring clutch, this reminds me exactly of when the one on my Renault 12 (!!) fractured. ETA >> which is to say, clutch engaged and no way for the release-fork/bearing to flatten the diaphragm and disengage it.

[@kenmeredith1952]

Good luck, at 70 beyond my body!!!

[@davidnorton573]

Your clutch is dragging. My experience has been that the driven disc is not floating off the flywheel. Could be any number of things from a cracked diaphragm spring to crud on the splined shaft. Anyway, you are going in, might as well replace it all, clutch parts tend to be cheap when compared with the time to get to them. By the by on the hydraulics if you don't see the slave relax after it has been actuated they are probably fine.

[@bigboy9693]

How long since you have driven the car as on a few occasions I have had the drive plate stick to the fly wheel due to mild corrosion and it took a far bit of effort to unstick it buy driving the car in first gear with your foot on the clutch, worth a try.

[@chedhead3278]

Cheers Jack, the mystery deepens. Bother.

[@jehl1963]

Since you have them, have you tried swapping out the shifter cables? If the gear selector linkage is out of whack it could also cause the car to not get into gear. Chances are it's not the problem, but since you have them and they are easier to replace than separating the transmission from the engine, it might be worth the few minutes to install them and see.

[@Jcegeland]

I love the elise s1, but the saying holds true. LOTUS, “Lots of Trouble, Usually Serious”

[@nickskipper2245]

I am sure this has been mentioned before but I would try removing the bracket you fitted and reassemble with out it. Was working fine before you fitted it so I would have thought worth a try before replacing the clutch?

[@polygamous1]

Thrust bearing maybe? got stuck sometimes in the past n broken any fingers on the pressure plate? maybe the bearing is super quiet n was rubbing instead of turning every time u put pressure on it n got worn out? a wild guess but anyway GL mate we all wish u get it sorted out quick

[@glensmall9194]

"Could be the Master." A line from Jon Pertwee as Dr Who?

[@Number27]

🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@neilpatching7443]

Best of luck Jack

[@goofah10]

If its not going into gear, have you checked the gear cables? I had a problem in the 911 996 where it wouldn't go into gear, upon investigation, the gear cable was knackered. When I messed around with it a bit, the gears were going in, but eventually changed it over for a new one and haven't had any problems since.

[@KevinSimpson_576]

At least you’re giving us some good content Jack 😀

[@ncfatcyclist]

You own an amazing car !