Morning Dress - Morning Wear - Morning Coat, Suit or Cut : Dress Code - Gentleman's Gazette

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Gentleman's Gazette

Gentleman's Gazette

6 жыл бұрын

Learn all about Morning Dress Dress Code: gentl.mn/morning-dress
For our in depth- 260+ page guide on all things morning wear check out gentl.mn/morning-wear-guide
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4. Grey Socks with Light Grey and Black Clocks - gentl.mn/2Hz2XSa
5. Grey Boot Laces Round Waxed Cotton - gentl.mn/2HyCGUg
So if you ever get an invitation that states morning dress or morning coat or maybe even morning suit, here is what you wear.
Wearing a morning coat is still popular for society weddings in Europe or in England specifically for any kind of wedding and it's mostly underutilized in the US yet, for horse races and other events, you can still wear it. If the dress code says formal day wear, it means the same thing so you wear a morning coat ensemble. Just like black tie and white tie, the morning coat dress code is very detail-oriented and I could spend an hour talking about every little detail. Here, I'll just provide you with the information in a nutshell.
So here's a quick rundown. You want a morning coat that is cut away in the front. It's usually in black or in dark grey, kind of a light texture such as herringbone but plain is okay as well. In general, you have peak lapels or notched lapels and it is worn with striped trousers. Usually, they're in colors of black, charcoal, grey, and maybe a fleck of white. Often, they are referred to as cashmere stripe, they're the most popular. You could also go with solid pants if you want to or small patterns such as houndstooth. Just make sure there's enough contrast to the morning coat. With the morning coat, you never wear a belt, but always suspenders, that way everything stays up. You can either wear single-breasted waistcoats or double-breasted ones, I like double breasted ones because they go with the look of the open morning coat, they're a little more special, and that's exactly the right thing when you wear such a unique garment as a morning coat. Traditional colors of the waistcoat include dove gray or buff which is a form of chamois yellow however you can also go with maybe red or blue, it's really up to you and what style you want to set.
It's very difficult to find these formal ascots however, it's really fun to wear it especially if you like a vintage look or the most traditional of all looks; and you can find a selection of them in our shop here.
If you want to go with a necktie and a classic choice is a tie with silver and black tones, they are also called wedding ties, and again, we have a rich selection of them here.
Of course, if you go with a tie, a regular turndown collar shirt with French cuffs is ideal. Button cuffs are always too informal so make sure you could wear cufflinks with it. Other than formal Ascot or a regular tie, you can also go with a bow tie. Again, the same kind of patterns in silver and black are good. If you want to be over-the-top loud, you can also go with something more colorful. For a full selection of wedding bow ties and regular bow ties, as well as regular ties and wedding ties, please check out our shop here.
If you want to wear shoes, I suggest you go with plain black shoes such as black cap toe Oxfords, you can also go with Balmoral boots, and ideally, you want to have something with a contrasting insert, maybe in suede or fabric, or it can all be in black.If you want to have a very traditional look, you can also go with button boots made out of black leather and then a contrasting colored insert.
You definitely want a white linen pocket square because very classic and dapper as well as a boutonniere either a fresh one or if you can't get that, you can find a selection of them in our shop.
It's not obligatory to wear a hat anymore but if you go with a special dress code you might as well go all in and get a top hat. Keep in mind, long tails also require a top hat. A regular Fedora or a Homburg hat would be wrong.
Chances are, you'll never see the dress code morning suit but if you do, it means that your waistcoat, your coat, as well as your pants, are made out of the same fabric.
#notsponsored #morningdress #morningwear
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Пікірлер: 301
@quackman
@quackman 4 жыл бұрын
"I can spend an hour talking about every little detail" Yes, please.
@hannamakela6989
@hannamakela6989 3 жыл бұрын
IKR! I was left feeling "hungry."
@daro9582
@daro9582 3 жыл бұрын
He should just go for it
@clydekimsey7503
@clydekimsey7503 2 жыл бұрын
🤣😊
@mantalk8798
@mantalk8798 6 жыл бұрын
I loved watching it even though I will realistically never wear this.
@corkboy4523
@corkboy4523 4 жыл бұрын
99.999999% of the worlds population never will
@Gernmanik
@Gernmanik 3 жыл бұрын
@@corkboy4523 not if you live in England
@vercingetorix2923
@vercingetorix2923 3 жыл бұрын
I will wear one at my school graduation this year.
@mantalk8798
@mantalk8798 3 жыл бұрын
@@vercingetorix2923 You might look a bit out of place, but I guess you do you?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
@@mantalk8798 why not?good for him to express his own style
@jonnykelly556
@jonnykelly556 3 жыл бұрын
Raphael, I absolutely love that vest. Great color, sharp cut, perfect fit. Velvet, in my opinion, is a very underappreciated fabric choice in men's wear.
@TheCityLawyer
@TheCityLawyer 2 жыл бұрын
I watched this video when it first came out, and I’m so glad I did! I had my first ‘morning dress’ event the other week, and felt so good not having to panic. Even if you don’t think you’ll wear this dress code, having the knowledge just in case is invaluable!
@ramanshah7627
@ramanshah7627 Жыл бұрын
I'll be honest, beyond the standard business suit in formality, morning dress is a lot more exciting to me than evening dress, and I loved this explainer!
@nulle.k
@nulle.k 2 жыл бұрын
Morning dress is just my absolute favourite suit style!
@OrpheusUcrainicus
@OrpheusUcrainicus Жыл бұрын
Thanks from Ukraine! I bought a fine vintage top hat from Germany one year ago and I want to sew to order a morning coat now. Your channel inspires me.
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 6 жыл бұрын
Do wear a morning coat or even a morning suit? If so, we would love to see your pictures! Please send them to contact@gentlemansgazette.com
@AlejandroBelloRD
@AlejandroBelloRD 6 жыл бұрын
I truly wish to relocate to a colder climate city just to to put in practice a couple of your formal dressing advises. Been watching your posh channel since day one.
@glossymouse7712
@glossymouse7712 11 ай бұрын
Unfortunately, these clothing pieces are becoming history at a very quick pace. The UK and central Europe used to have a colder climate just a few years ago, but today it's becoming normal for 40°C air temperature in the summer. 20 years ago 30-35° was the absolute maximum and it was seen as a massive heat wave and danger. Winter is more like a long autumn with occasional dips below 0°. 10 years ago -10° was the normal temperature for nearly all of winter. Light and loose woven linen shirts and pants (maybe a jacket too if you feel like losing 3kg in sweat that day) are a must from about March to early October. Along with a hat or a cap in the summer, which are *a must have* because the sun has gotten so strong.
@Molach101
@Molach101 Жыл бұрын
Re: 5:55 my Dad actually got married in a stroller suit (black lounge). The difficulty with wearing something like that in the UK is that the stroller with the black jacket & matching black waistcoat is the default uniform of undertakers, so you need to wear a good contrasting waistcoat, contrast collar shirt etc, checked trousers, or interesting accessories.
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
Yeah, I've noticed they sometimes refer to the black stroller jackets for sale in the U.K. as a "funeral director's jacket" or occasionally "Masonic jacket." It's actually kind of funny because wearing a stroller in Canada is much easier to pull off than a morning coat. Morning dress isn't really a thing here anymore, so isn't widely accepted. I personally like wearing my strollers about town with a matching black waistcoat and silk houndstooth wedding tie paired with a gold stick pin and watch chain, although sometimes I go with a buff or grey waistcoat to spice things up.
@Molach101
@Molach101 Жыл бұрын
@@TheRefinedGentleman I believe Freemasons here in the UK traditionally wear stroller suits with their regalia for ceremonies which is why you'll see it referred to as a Masonic jacket. I had a lot of relatives in the Masons but none are alive today unfortunately so I can't ask them for clarification. My father and his best-man wore dove grey waistcoats with their strollers so they didn't look like undertakers
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
@@Molach101 Yeah, it's my understanding they wear it for semi-formal daytime meetings. I know barristers used to wear strollers here at one point with court dress, but it seems like most wear dark lounge suits now. A dove grey waistcoat is pretty common for a wedding. Unfortunately, we seemed to have inherited the American tradition and most grooms here wear dinner suits for their weddings.
@tessat338
@tessat338 2 жыл бұрын
This is giving me a much better understanding of David Suchet's wardrobe on the Hercule Poirot mysteries. M. Poirot was always impeccably dressed for the time of day for town or for the European continent but not always for the English countryside.
@cristiansg2433
@cristiansg2433 6 жыл бұрын
I love your style man, amazing! It's pretty sad to see so many young ppl that don't appreciate it anymore..
@OrrosGG
@OrrosGG 3 жыл бұрын
Only the young? Meh. There’s elders “trying” to be young yet achieve the opposite result, looking ridiculous, a lot of values were lost, and society how it is today is less civilised and way more impolite.
@traumatizedgermansoldier3856
@traumatizedgermansoldier3856 2 жыл бұрын
​@Marinebattleships 1 we are a rare breed but we exist
@justincedeno7290
@justincedeno7290 6 жыл бұрын
I’ll probably never dress like this, but I find it so interesting
@mandeepbaweja3021
@mandeepbaweja3021 6 жыл бұрын
Stroller Suit look is just about ideal for me, 4 years ago i wore a Tuxedo in my sisters daytime wedding. Traditionally its wrong but however now i feel i can pull off the Stroller Suit looks at day wedding easily 😇
@ajawalkure
@ajawalkure 5 жыл бұрын
anyone should be able to! it's the point of a stroller suit isn't it :)
@nutyyyy
@nutyyyy 4 жыл бұрын
If you really want to take it up a notch you can wear a stroller suit until the evening and then changed into the tux.
@Man129
@Man129 5 жыл бұрын
4:22 “You’ve been struck by, a Smooth Criminal”
@QweltyNick
@QweltyNick 4 жыл бұрын
You've been struck by, you've been hit by... *TRUCK*
@Aksil1871
@Aksil1871 3 жыл бұрын
I'm glad I wasn't the only one thinking about that
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
Imo the black lounge/stroller suit is often underutilized and much easier to accept in North America where sartorial standards are lower. The following points will be of use: i) While SB black jackets are traditional, a DB black jacket is perfectly acceptable, assuming the details are correct. It can be an easier way to get peaked lapels, jetted pockets and an unvented rear into one's black lounge suit. Peaked lapels look more elegant on a DB jacket, but make wearing a pocket watch on the waistcoat impractical. Opt for a lower gorge (but not too low) on the jacket and a high buttoning waistcoat if wearing a DB jacket, so as not to obstruct the waistcoat. ii) Historically notch lapels were worn with half-dress. This gives an argument for wearing notch lapels with black lounge suits, but peaked lapels work better here in a modern context. iii) Stiff, starched detachable turndown collars are more traditional and give much better results than attached turndown collar shirts for this dress code. Detachable wing collars and four-in-hand ties are not advised, but look quite elegant imo. iv) Don't make the mistake of wearing a wing collar that's too short when wearing a cravat. A "Grafton" wing collar will work very nicely for this purpose. v) The only modern top hats which come up to par are the grey fur felt ones. Most modern black melusine fur ones don't compare to antique "town-weight" silk plush ones in terms of weight and shine. Get your hands on an antique hat and you'll see what I mean. vi) Shoes should ideally be made of black calf or shell cordovan and have leather soles. Chunky soles will ruin the outfit. Shoes should be well-polished, but not patent leather since that's only for formal evening wear.
@paulleduc5097
@paulleduc5097 6 жыл бұрын
Great vlog post. The more I get into traditional menswear, the more challenges I have with how to properly organize and store various pieces (pocket squares, cufflinks, hats, etc...). Is there any chance you might do a closet tour or share your secrets to keeping everything in good condition and organized?
@dissonantstyle
@dissonantstyle 6 жыл бұрын
Paul Leduc I second that!
@arpitakodagu9854
@arpitakodagu9854 5 жыл бұрын
That bottle green waistcoat is to die for....
@jknox2
@jknox2 5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the tips I will be putting them into practice when I attend Royal Ascot this week in the Royal Enclosure.
@zoukatron
@zoukatron 6 жыл бұрын
It's worth bearing in mind that some of these options are no longer valid in at least some high society occasions. Whilst detachable standing or wing collars combined with formal cravats were once de rigeur, in the UK, at least, they are now frowned upon as outdated - they are not allowed at the Royal Ascot and they were absent at the last Royal Wedding. You do see them at plenty of "low society" weddings for the rest of us plebs, although they are almost universally of the cheap, poorly made and fitted rental variety. A friend of mine rented a charcoal grey morning suit for his wedding a few years ago, together with a cheap wing collar and ruched cravat, I turned up wearing a black lounge (British term for stroller) ensemble I had put together from charity shop finds - everyone thought my outfit was much better.
@zoukatron
@zoukatron 6 жыл бұрын
Edit: the above is true for Harry and Meghan's royal wedding too.
@Purwapada
@Purwapada 4 жыл бұрын
. who cars, I'll wear an Osbaldeston ascot whenever I want. Cos Its such a shame to loose something like that. If they don't like it then up theirs
@wilburdemitel8468
@wilburdemitel8468 Жыл бұрын
tasteless
@glossymouse7712
@glossymouse7712 11 ай бұрын
​@@wilburdemitel8468What is tasteful in your opinion?
@wilburdemitel8468
@wilburdemitel8468 11 ай бұрын
@@glossymouse7712 morning dress and cravat. Tie it in a lavaliere if possible. Two rounds around the neck.
@alexandralapernice1030
@alexandralapernice1030 6 жыл бұрын
a much needed video- let‘s hope a lot of men will watch and learn!😉
@rfrec733
@rfrec733 6 жыл бұрын
Very nice! I've been waiting for a video on this for months!
@shirakou1
@shirakou1 2 жыл бұрын
I think I've found my outfit for my wedding! :D
@PlanetYokoshima
@PlanetYokoshima 4 жыл бұрын
You inspire me to smile confidently like that :D
@vivekbooshan9954
@vivekbooshan9954 6 жыл бұрын
This video is absolutely perfect, Short and Sweet.
@michaelbell3952
@michaelbell3952 5 жыл бұрын
ITZ DA KURRENT YEAR
@pcarmical
@pcarmical 4 жыл бұрын
Would you please consider doing a video solely on the stroller suit?
@jaojao1768
@jaojao1768 4 жыл бұрын
Good idea
@brooksiefan
@brooksiefan 6 жыл бұрын
The best, as usual!
@louislamonte334
@louislamonte334 2 жыл бұрын
What a beautiful, handsome and masculine outfit!
@aryajourabi7612
@aryajourabi7612 4 жыл бұрын
Morning dress is my favourite dress
@SafeComfortableYouTube
@SafeComfortableYouTube 6 жыл бұрын
Sharp as ever Sven!
@keshavrao212
@keshavrao212 2 жыл бұрын
"As sharp as Sven"
@xottickghost9108
@xottickghost9108 4 жыл бұрын
I love top hats 🎩
@marekeos
@marekeos 5 жыл бұрын
If memory serves me right, the last time I saw people dressed like this, I was fighting for a spot inside a lifeboat on the Titanic.
@glenndanzigsmanycats2045
@glenndanzigsmanycats2045 5 жыл бұрын
Lol
@TheEpicProjects300K
@TheEpicProjects300K 5 жыл бұрын
That was white tie but you've got a point lol
@Loki-sk7bi
@Loki-sk7bi 5 жыл бұрын
Only a century ago. Lol
@swunt10
@swunt10 5 жыл бұрын
that's not possible since the sinking of the titanic was a white tie event.
@mikeoxmaul45
@mikeoxmaul45 4 жыл бұрын
Watch European weddings.
@BurntPiston
@BurntPiston 4 жыл бұрын
Every girl crazy bout a sharp dressed man. LOL . ZZ Top.
@siriwayojosephthewelder
@siriwayojosephthewelder 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the Video
@hannamakela6989
@hannamakela6989 3 жыл бұрын
Any chance of getting a break-down of your wedding morning coat ensemble? That outfit (with its lighter vest and tie pin or tack) looked even more dapper than the one in this video. :)
@michaelbell3952
@michaelbell3952 5 жыл бұрын
I'm going to wear a grey stroller to my wedding
@bigben3942
@bigben3942 2 жыл бұрын
Hiya there, Thank you for your fantastic videos, which are always fun to watch. I'm planning to wear a morning suit for my wedding in June, so I was wondering what to wear after 6pm or could I wear it all day? After reading and watching your guide I fear it can't be worn at night, so should I switch it with an ordinary comfortable suit? Many thanks, Ben 😊
@splashpont
@splashpont 6 жыл бұрын
Now I know what to wear to the Royal Wedding as I watch it on BBC America!
@mbojimore8710
@mbojimore8710 Жыл бұрын
Ok got the answer thanks
@benjaminharrisongray9079
@benjaminharrisongray9079 4 жыл бұрын
To really kick morning dress up fellas, try adding spats to your black oxfords, in white, off-white, or light gray. Find ones that fit the shoes well, and don't look too big. I recommend looking up John Patrick Christopher spats.
@jimmywinship9569
@jimmywinship9569 6 жыл бұрын
very useful .thanks and great job as always
@lance-biggums
@lance-biggums 2 жыл бұрын
I would love some to be invited to some event where I would have occasion to wear this. Even black tie evening wear is an extreme rarity.
@LucasStoten1
@LucasStoten1 6 жыл бұрын
4:03 "If you want to wear shoes..."
@kurtvonfricken6829
@kurtvonfricken6829 3 жыл бұрын
Instead of boots....
@aceystar1478
@aceystar1478 3 жыл бұрын
@@kurtvonfricken6829 we know that but out of context its hilarious
@andreaspesic9198
@andreaspesic9198 6 жыл бұрын
Great video!
@massivefollower7131
@massivefollower7131 6 жыл бұрын
Where could we get a morning suit or other morning wear items. You mention which items we can get at your shop. Where can we get items that you do not offer?
@matheusraoul5025
@matheusraoul5025 6 жыл бұрын
I noticed that the closing button on your morning coat is rather peculiar. Is it a defining feature of the morning coat or is it just your preference, Raphael?
@Octave_25
@Octave_25 4 жыл бұрын
I very like the style of the coat of the morning coat. Did you have suggestions toi make it more Casual to make it fit un a business suit?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
Cutaways are formal daywear,it is a sacrilege to mess with it
@JBon-or9vg
@JBon-or9vg 6 жыл бұрын
This is a OT but what do you think of Marinella neck ties?
@henrystein8313
@henrystein8313 3 жыл бұрын
Are you saleing a top hat in your shop?
@pacettid
@pacettid Жыл бұрын
Excellent video! I’m an American historian who greatly admires classic British formal wear. I’m attending an afternoon wedding and opted to wear a black wool stroller with matching waistcoat, dark gray striped trousers and matching spats, a 19th century pocket watch and a black homburg. Thanks so very much for helping me “get it right.”
@alexe2591
@alexe2591 6 жыл бұрын
Sven where did you get this morning coat from?
@dejan.b17
@dejan.b17 6 жыл бұрын
Schönes Video Raphael! Findest du, dass man Hemdärmel hochkrempeln kann, während man einen Pullunder trägt? Grüße aus Nürnberg
@justagerman140
@justagerman140 4 жыл бұрын
Da ein Pullunder schon dem Namen nach eigentlich unter ein Sakko gehört, kann man ruhig die Ärmel hochkrempeln, wenn man sich dazu entschließt, das Sakko wegzulassen.
@user-ih6vs3eg3o
@user-ih6vs3eg3o 3 жыл бұрын
Just bought a 30’s top hat today
@williamheath4606
@williamheath4606 6 жыл бұрын
I love every video that you make but it makes me laugh when you always plug the boutiners
@nenaddimitrijevic8266
@nenaddimitrijevic8266 5 жыл бұрын
Do you have a store somewhere in the world?
@vladchan
@vladchan 7 ай бұрын
According to protocol, a morning coat or white tie is formal dress code. A tux is semi-formal, and a suit and tie is informal wear.
@hadrians.2264
@hadrians.2264 6 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for your great video! Some people argue that black top hats are reserved for funerals and white tie, so on happy occasions a morning coat should be worn with a grey top hat. How do you think about it?
@Loukbots
@Loukbots 6 жыл бұрын
Hadrian Silberer It isn’t true, if one was to be attending a funeral one would wear a m*ou*rning (not m*o*rning) band around the crown of one’s top hat. This was a piece of felt that buttoned around the crown and covered about 3/4 of one’s top hat. This is where those ugly wool felt top hats originated, these contrary to silk plush (the shiny finish on the hat consisting of a velvet-like plush with a directory nap) top hats are only ever slightly acceptable at a funeral because of the dull mourning band like finish. This being said, a silk plush hat especially when combined with a mourning band will always be preferable. As for the grey hat, historically known as a “white hat”, this hat can replace the silk hat at almost any given situation during the day, though I personally wouldn’t wear at while attending a funeral. I hope this answer was sufficient, and if you have any other top hat related questions feel free to ask. Kind Regards, Louk
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 6 жыл бұрын
We discuss the details of hat etiquette here gentl.mn/morning-wear-guide
@felixmichel7469
@felixmichel7469 Жыл бұрын
Is ist called Stresemann when wearing with grey pants
@Nate-vi8pw
@Nate-vi8pw 6 жыл бұрын
Do you wear a suit everyday?
@benmarrie
@benmarrie Жыл бұрын
Hello Sir meeting you backbone.
@maxmeldrum3631
@maxmeldrum3631 Жыл бұрын
Can you wear a morning dress/suit like you would a suit
@myramadd6651
@myramadd6651 6 жыл бұрын
Of course, down here in the South, Cowboy boots can be worn as formal.
@mantalk8798
@mantalk8798 6 жыл бұрын
Myra Madd I actually wear my black cowboy boots with rounded toes in replacement of dress shoes and I find they work pretty well!
@paulbeach8181
@paulbeach8181 6 жыл бұрын
But watch the spurs on a parquet floor.
@blakemcnamara9105
@blakemcnamara9105 6 жыл бұрын
Some cowboy boots are beautifully made.
@tatihx
@tatihx Жыл бұрын
Where did you get this Dove Grey Waistcoat?
@rangerbs08
@rangerbs08 6 жыл бұрын
Would it also be appropriate to wear a frock coat like the gentleman on the right at 2:04, or would that be inappropriate?
@sylvio1687
@sylvio1687 4 жыл бұрын
I live in Brazil , would be strange for me to use Top Hat?
@i05CrafterGames
@i05CrafterGames 3 жыл бұрын
Simkkkkjjjj
@raulantoniocamou7126
@raulantoniocamou7126 2 жыл бұрын
Where can one buy a good quality Morning Suit?
@joshuaphilip4413
@joshuaphilip4413 6 жыл бұрын
Are you going to sell vests in the future?
@robertusaugustus2003
@robertusaugustus2003 6 жыл бұрын
Personally if I were to change one thing about the ensemble in the video I would make the lapels on the coat much wider. They look slightly out of proportion with the rest of it.
@wardude2260
@wardude2260 6 жыл бұрын
What about spats?
@caballeronovatoinmaculado8695
@caballeronovatoinmaculado8695 6 жыл бұрын
Por que no mencionas los spats(polainas en español)
@marlinspike1235
@marlinspike1235 4 жыл бұрын
Is that stroller suit also good for evening events?
@b.c.gamingss
@b.c.gamingss 3 жыл бұрын
Only for morning events. A black tie would be the equivalent of a stroller suit for evening.
@deathstar51
@deathstar51 9 ай бұрын
Confusing really. I still can’t decide if my morning suit means the curved long jacket or tbd regular jacket
@ranjos2001
@ranjos2001 6 жыл бұрын
When wearing a morning coat the correct hat to wear (although not obligatory) is a top hat. What about a stroller suit? What’s the ideal hat? As for top hats for morning coats, should they be wool or silk ones?
@marclewinstein7639
@marclewinstein7639 5 жыл бұрын
Homburg with the stroller
@xanderlowe8704
@xanderlowe8704 4 жыл бұрын
It should be a silk top hat if you're wearing a stroller suit in the colder months of the year then you should wear a felt homburg hat and if you're wearing a stroller suit in the warmer months of the year you should wear a straw boater hat.
@eliegbert8121
@eliegbert8121 2 жыл бұрын
a "white" (actually grey) top hat
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
Historically, a bowler hat with the stroller, although a homburg seems to be preferred to a bowler in more recent times. However, both are appropriate and should be in black felt. Boater hat was historically worn from May - September. For morning coats, generally speaking you should be wearing a top hat in black silk plush, or a modern melusine fur replacement. If you're attending the summer horse races in the U.K. a grey top hat in fur felt is okay too. Some people wear grey hats for more formal events, which is something I wouldn't recommend. They're really only appropriate for more relaxed events such as Ascot and actually work really well if you're wearing a grey morning suit, in the sense where all three pieces are in a mid-grey colour. You will sometimes find grey hats in wool felt, which are workable, but a bit informal in my opinion. Stay away from the black hats in wool felt for most things, although they're actually perfectly acceptable to be worn to a funeral. The drab shell fits the atmosphere of mourning. I bought a wool felt hat by mistake when I was first starting out, and really regretted it. The quality was subpar and the brim was misshapen. I spent a lot of time fixing the shape of the hat, which should tell you all you need to know, and based on this experience, I don't really recommend them.
@BlaBla-vm5yu
@BlaBla-vm5yu 2 жыл бұрын
If I want to wear a detachable wing collar with morning wear, should I wear a soft shirt front or a stiff one (like with a tailcoat)?
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
In the late Victorian and early Edwardian eras, it used to be a detachable wing collar with a starched stiff-fronted shirt and starched single cuffs. This changed as the 1900s progressed, and now a stiff-fronted shirt is reserved solely for white tie, so you should wear a plain-fronted (soft front) shirt for anything morning wear related. The idea is that when you wear a wing collar and cravat (or necktie), your waistcoat buttons high enough and your cravat (or necktie) hides the shirt front, so a stiff-fronted shirt isn't necessary. Compare that with a low-cut evening waistcoat for white tie, where most of the shirt front is on display, so a stiff-fronted shirt is absolutely necessary. If you really wanted to, you could wear a stiff-fronted shirt for a historical look, but I would not advise this and would recommend sticking to the soft shirt front. Two things that should be pointed out are collar height and cuff type. If you plan on wearing a cravat, generally you should aim to wear a fairly tall wing collar. Note a wing collar and cravat should only be worn with a black coat. I prefer a "Grafton" collar for this purpose, which is about 2 1/2" high at the front and tapers down to about 2 1/4" at the rear. I realize that this extreme Edwardian era height isn't for everybody, so a standard "Windsor" wing collar will work just as well. These tend to be about 1 3/4" - 2" high at the front in my experience. If you plan on wearing a necktie, just stick with a standard "Windsor" collar, although be advised some consider the necktie and wing collar look to be very dated. If you plan on wearing a wing collar with a cravat, some people (myself included) strongly argue for wearing a shirt with starched single cuffs worn with cufflinks (but with a soft shirt front). This is mainly due to historical reasons as well as the increased formality of the collar and neckwear. Be advised that finding a soft front tunic shirt with single cuffs (basically a white tie shirt minus the bib) is nearly impossible. I actually had to make one myself. Having said that, if you wear a wing collar and cravat, a double-cuffed tunic shirt (aka a barrister's shirt) would work too and would probably be more current anyways. Not to mention, some hardcore evening wear people say single cuffs should only be worn with white tie anyways. If you're wearing a wing collar with a necktie, go with a double-cuffed tunic shirt as the cuffs match the formality level of the collar and neckwear. Again, some people will tell you to avoid this configuration due to the fact it looks "dated," but from personal experience, I find it works nicely with a morning coat as well as a stroller (black lounge) suit. Hope this helps!
@movesky6696
@movesky6696 3 жыл бұрын
can wear jeans
@adrielrowley
@adrielrowley 6 жыл бұрын
Must a morning or stroller be peaked? Reason I ask is for us inverted triangles. Can a stroller be in a charcoal so almost looks black but isn't? Didn't see it in the guide, so please excuse if missed. Danke!
@gentlemansgazette
@gentlemansgazette 6 жыл бұрын
It's in our pdf guide gentl.mn/morning-wear-guide
@marlinspike1235
@marlinspike1235 5 жыл бұрын
Isn't that stroller version also suitable for dinner and other less formal evening wear?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
No,tuxedo is the only apporiate dress for evening
@alejandrodono
@alejandrodono 3 жыл бұрын
Raphael what is the function of the button that is hanging behind the front one on the jacket? and why does it have that long threat?
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
It's a special type of button called a toggle-closure. Usually morning coats have this style of closure or a single button. Some dinner jackets also have this as well
@carltrotter7622
@carltrotter7622 2 жыл бұрын
Stiff-fronted shirt with a morning suit, yes or no? I’ve seen a Laurence fellows illustration with someone doing it with a wing collar and bow-tie, and the major advantage is 0 creases.
@keshavrao212
@keshavrao212 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, you can do that but your cravat and the waistcoat hides it a lot.
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
Historically yes, but it's not really done anymore. Not necessary with a cravat, but its usefulness becomes apparent when one wears a bowtie or a low-buttoning waistcoat. There's also the people who say stiff-front shirts are for white tie only too...
@midas89h
@midas89h 4 жыл бұрын
Shirt questions: buttons or studs or doesn't matter? bib or no bib?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
Just a normal double cuffed shirt,no need fancy here
@DutchPlanDerLinde
@DutchPlanDerLinde 5 жыл бұрын
Can I wear it everyday like people in the La Belle epoque? Of course not when moving my lawn or something but for walking around the city and going for a coffe with my friend?
@ianrusso1666
@ianrusso1666 5 жыл бұрын
Well, you could, but you should not for you would be extremely overdressed and would look outdated for nowadays unfortunate standarts.
@DutchPlanDerLinde
@DutchPlanDerLinde 5 жыл бұрын
Ian Russo Pity, I would love to do so. We still propably have it better than the generations to come! I guess I will choose a tweed jacket and a good old flatcap then. Cheers.
@tomtwigt
@tomtwigt 6 жыл бұрын
Is it normal for the trousers to be a bit wider and looser than with your normal pants? Like a more 'regular fit' versus the standard 'slim fit' in most suits these days
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
Personal preference,no wrong or right,but Fuller cut and more heavier cloth were reccomendeed
@misak1914
@misak1914 2 жыл бұрын
Hi. I’m attending a British citizenship ceremony. The invitation is not picky about what the attire is. I would like to dress for the occasion. Naturally, the Queen is not going to be in attendance, but her picture will be there in her place and I am to swear allegiance to her likeness. What do you recommend?
@vincent7584
@vincent7584 2 жыл бұрын
If I would wear black or dark grey double breasted jacket (ventless) with cashmiere stripes and odd vest would it be still count as stroller attire?
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
Yes, DB jackets are perfectly fine
@douglasarbalist525
@douglasarbalist525 6 жыл бұрын
Excellent video. A few questions come to mind: 1. Are morning dress suits properly worn with either a black or matching top hat, or is there a rule? 5:24 modern photo: Morning dress suit & black top hat 5:31 illustration (and other modern photos): Morning dress suit & matching gray top hat 2. If "Morning dress suit" is specified, then are morning coat & striped pants incorrect or optional? 3. Are frock coats, except for certain military uniforms, now considered a cultural anachronism? 2:05 illustration (which looks to be post-WW1): frock coat on right, worn unbuttoned FWIW, in the closing scene in "Hello Dolly", Walter Matthau is wearing a frock coat for the wedding; my observation being that the film director(s) & producer(s) still understood the appropriateness of the frock coat in 1969.
@Loukbots
@Loukbots 6 жыл бұрын
1) If one was to be attending a funeral one would wear a mourning (not morning) band around the crown of one’s top hat. This was a piece of felt that buttoned around the crown and covered about 3/4 of one’s top hat. This is where those ugly wool felt top hats originated, these contrary to silk plush (the shiny finish on the hat consisting of a velvet-like plush with a directory nap that is polished with either tallow or water, both of which are applied with a velvet pad) top hats are only ever slightly acceptable at funerals because of the dull mourning band like finish. This being said, a silk plush hat especially when combined with a mourning band will always be preferable. As for the grey hat, historically known as a “white hat”, this hat can replace the silk hat at almost any given situation during the day, though I personally wouldn’t wear it while attending a funeral. For more festive white tie or morning dress events (don't wear it for Black Tie, please...) you could wear both the white and silk hat, the white one being reserved just for daytime events. I hope this answer was sufficient, and if you have any other top hat related questions feel free to ask. 2) This depends on the knowledgeability of the host. When the host isn't too sartorially educated one could presume they meant regular morning dress. If they are very peculiar in and strict in their dresscodes I would advise on wearing a morning suit instead of the traditional cashmere striped trousers and black/oxford grey coat. However, if one of the two fits particularily well I would always go with the well fitting example 3) I, as a vintage enthusiast own a frock coat, but I only wear it with items from pre 1950, or very high quality and period correct examples from more recent times. However, because I try to adhere to the rules within the dresscodes, but not to external dress codes (except when specified earlier) as to the appropriateness of an outfit in specific circumstances, I can't judge whether one should wear a frock coat in modern situations. For your own wedding: do whatever you want, for someone elses, don't. Kind Regards, Louk
@jenniferschmitzer299
@jenniferschmitzer299 4 жыл бұрын
Sisyphus’ Boulder oooh.. I know your post is old but I was thinking the same.. mourning suit.. when you think hats with bands, carriage horses with plumes... jet jewellery... ☺️☺️
@eliegbert8121
@eliegbert8121 2 жыл бұрын
Black top hats are acceptable but gray ones are traditional
@killaben85
@killaben85 3 жыл бұрын
Could you substitute the top hat for a fedora or stetson?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
You can't,for morning coat its long in so the hat must be long too,and even stroller suit you still have to wear an homburg/bowler
@flyerbluedog
@flyerbluedog 6 жыл бұрын
Question Raphaël : In which circumstances would you wear the Bowler or Derby hat? Not formal enough for Morning Wear, could you wear it with Stroller Suit? Thanks for your reply.
@zoukatron
@zoukatron 6 жыл бұрын
Bowlers/derbies (and homburgs for that matter) are suitable with stroller/black lounge, black tie, with lounge suits and anything that you feel works that is less formal. Never appropriate with white tie, but you could arguably wear a bowler with a morning coat if you wanted to give the impression that you are some sort of servant.
@kurtvonfricken6829
@kurtvonfricken6829 3 жыл бұрын
A Homburg can be worn with a stroller.
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
Bowler is good for a stroller but not morning coat
@nuotna
@nuotna 4 жыл бұрын
What is the color of the stroller jacket? Does the stroller jacket have to be peak lapel?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
Black or dark charchoal grey is advisable,can be peaked or notched,just no shawl
@xanderlowe8704
@xanderlowe8704 4 жыл бұрын
Sven I know you said the traditional coat for a stroller suit outfit was a black blazer with peaked lapels jetted pockets no vents one or two closing pockets and single-breasted but I have a Blazer that has all of that accept Notch lapels instead of peak lapels would that be acceptable to wear in a stroller suit outfit?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
I think so,i wear an notch lapel stroller,even you can wear an notch lapel morning coat
@kurtvonfricken6829
@kurtvonfricken6829 3 жыл бұрын
It worked for Ronald Reagan when he was sworn into office in 1981.
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
You can find pictures of Churchill wearing a stroller with notch lapels and flap pockets from the 1940s and old illustrations of men wearing strollers with notch lapels and jetted pockets. I know that for the traditional look you want the peak lapels and jetted pockets (maybe even single button coat too), but various sources I've consulted say that a stroller coat is acceptable with peak or notch lapels, flap or jetted pockets, no vents or 2 side vents, 1 or 2 buttons, albeit any of the "acceptable" options are a hair less formal than the traditional version.
@jaakonpoikaparikkalalainen3096
@jaakonpoikaparikkalalainen3096 Жыл бұрын
Our president Ryti wore his eden hat with morning coat and at least in Finland it was acceptable.
@davidguerrero9270
@davidguerrero9270 6 жыл бұрын
I would like to clarify, is it appropriate in stroller wear to use a double breasted herring bone black jacket?
@zoukatron
@zoukatron 6 жыл бұрын
Yes. Doube-breasted strollers are absolutely fine. It would also remove the requirement for a waistcoat (but you could always wear one too anyway).
@jaakonpoikaparikkalalainen3096
@jaakonpoikaparikkalalainen3096 Жыл бұрын
Hello. I have learned that bow ties are not suitable for formal daywear, they are reserved for the evening
@jammydodger7189
@jammydodger7189 6 жыл бұрын
I have only got light brown lace shoes, will they work with this moring suit?
@DennisDuda
@DennisDuda 6 жыл бұрын
jammy doger No, only black shoes with a closed lacing.
@jammydodger7189
@jammydodger7189 6 жыл бұрын
Ok thank you
@pocketsand5216
@pocketsand5216 4 жыл бұрын
I have some questions about the waistcoat you wear at 6:40 Is the vertical hole in the center for a button? Are there any pockets on the waistcoat, and where are they? Is the back different from the front, and are there any other materials than what can be seen on the exterior? What sort of lapels are there? Asking because I plan to replicate this or sew something similar.
@pocketsand5216
@pocketsand5216 4 жыл бұрын
So sorry, I think almost all my questions were answered by looking at the 8:12. I have a different question now. What is that piece of jewelry named?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
@@pocketsand5216 its an watch fob,the type of chain he wear was double albert
@vincent7584
@vincent7584 3 жыл бұрын
I've got a question. If I would wear frock coat instead of cutaway coat , would it still count as morning attire?
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
Yes,and more formal than a cutaway
@vincent7584
@vincent7584 3 жыл бұрын
@@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 Thank you for your response
@vincent7584
@vincent7584 3 жыл бұрын
@@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 Also for Royal Ascot race frock coat could be worn instead of cutaway coat?
@messenger3478
@messenger3478 Жыл бұрын
Can one wear Black Oxfords with contrasing Spats instead of boots?
@gabebob2341
@gabebob2341 Жыл бұрын
Spat’s are entirely appropriate for morning wear if I’m not mistaken although it could be considered ‘too costumey’, but with anything like that, Rock it and it will work.
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman 8 ай бұрын
Yes, you can wear them. Traditionally they'd come in whites, greys and occasionally shades of tan. You would always match your glove colour to your spats colour, although this isn't really relevant as it was, since many don't wear gloves anymore. Not sure where you can get them other than vintage, really overpriced from modern sources or make them yourself. I've personally never really seen the point of Balmoral boots or button boots, other than for an event on muddy/rough ground or maybe to showoff a bit if you go to a lot of formal day events.
@aceystar1478
@aceystar1478 3 жыл бұрын
Can you wear spats with this if you really wanted to. I know they're very vintage but if I ever get married, I want to be in morning dress with a cravat.
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 3 жыл бұрын
Absolutely
@bigman7856
@bigman7856 3 жыл бұрын
I notice that a lot of places don’t sell high waisted pants. Modern interpretations of the morning suit look slightly off with the super skinny low-rise pants and long waistcoat to compensate.
@Mocha_122
@Mocha_122 3 жыл бұрын
Very well said I noticed that too. I have a modern morning suit and while I like it. It just seems off with the long waistcoat exposed.
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
Yeah, it makes people's torsos look really long and creates a weird sense of proportion imo
@j.alexander8468
@j.alexander8468 6 жыл бұрын
Out of curiosity, where'd you acquire that waistcoat?
@Chernochegger
@Chernochegger Жыл бұрын
Is a bowler hat alright?
@TheRefinedGentleman
@TheRefinedGentleman Жыл бұрын
For a stroller, yes. For a morning coat, not really although it's been done in the past.
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