MOTOR SERIES #4: Lubricating the Bearings. But What Happens When You Can't Access the Brushes?

[@russellireland996]

I cleaned the commutator by using electric motor cleaner on Q-tips. I went through the vent holes, and turned the shaft by hand while holding light pressure on the cotton swab. I repeated a few times , till it came out clean. Thanks for all your videos, they have helped me out often.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Thanks for sharing Russell. FYI, have you ever tried using the new (relatively) Q Tip Precision tips? I find them to be easier to use and a bit less likely to shred. When I find these, its normally in a pharmacy or store with a pharmacy. Here is a link to what I'm referring to. www.qtips.com/products/qtips-precision-tips/

[@jasonbrown7644]

Great advice for motors. I suggest using scotch tape to hold the brushes in place making way for the commutator to slide in easily. Those motors do seem to test my patience but scotch tape works the best for me! Thanks again for another enlightening video!

[@BH0t8498]

Thank You so much. I’ve always kept my MORSE oiled and use it every day. I have NEVER put a drop into the motor. EVER! 😱

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Great point!

[@scottyboggs3068]

It’s a pain! You indeed disassemble the motor, the brushes and springs pop out, the thrust washer too. To get it back together you must use skill and poke through with something thin and long through the grill slots to hold the brushes plate in position while you slide the top back on and seat the shaft into the end bearing. You have to be patient and motivated! It may take a couple dozen try’s! I got where I was quite skilled at it, but it was not easy.

[@anthonyiron4635]

I have no experience with sewing machine motors but some motors (and older GM alternators) had holes in the brush holder that allowed you to hold back the brushes by inserting a pin. The pins then extend outside the body of the motor and once the shell has been assembled, the pins can then be removed and the brushes will then spring against the commutator. I was wondering if the brass rivets, with holes in them, on the White motor would allow pins in to hold back the brushes. They must have had some method when assembling the motor at the factory.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

That's a very interesting theory Anthony. Thank you for sharing and it leads me to want to find out if there are options since without access to those places from outside the shell, there is no way to know for sure without disassembly which could, if there are not options for this in the brush holder, you could be left with no working motor.

[@RetroMods]

I've just cleaned the commutator the best I can with a q-tip soaked in electrical cleaner via the open holes in the casing. It has removed a lot of soot.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Great tip!

[@Peppermint1]

Another issue with these motors, the tiny screw that locks the pulley on the shaft, it's almost impossible to remove. Not only it's tiny and the metal is soft, it also gets stuck from old hardened oil. It also takes a very small size flat bit. I managed to remove one using a 3/8 ratchet and socket adapter, but I failed on another one, the screw groove started to deform.

[@treperrys]

Take that motor apart. I bet you will find a felt flat washer surrounding the bearing. That felt washer holds oil. It is an oil reserve and if it is all dried out one drop will not help much. You want to saturate the felt without over saturating it.

[@katarzynapolus7887]

I'm really glad I found this video. I just recently got a vintage japanese machine Viscount 870, and it has the same exact motor as the one you are showing in this video. I was wondering if there's a way to get to it. I followed your advice on oiling the motor, and the machine is going strong. Thank you for your very informative video!

[@mariazhang8852]

Helpful!!!my machine has a same motor.the problem is: after running a while ,it’s slow down .i touch the motor,it’s very hot.i have to stop.what can I do?thank you

[@pookiebear9200]

I have a Brother Galaxy 230. The motor started smoking. Doesn’t smell electrical. I oiled the oil ports as you recommend. Some of my other sewing machine Groups say run the motor for about five min. and it will eventually burn off the dirt that is on the inside. However, I tried the Q-tip in the vent and it seems there is a large amount of carbon. I’m going to try to clean it that way with the Q-tips. Not sure if I should use any cleaner on the Q-tip or just wipe out what I can with a dry Q-tip. Nonetheless I’m curious why it would have so much carbon. It is an old machine obviously from 1962 and maybe it went years without any oil. what exactly causes carbon to build up? Us it metal wear? The machine runs very well. The motor doesn’t bog down at all Thank you for your videos and all you do.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

No cleaners should be used other than 99 % rubbing alcohol. Once dry, you can try to see if the motor improves. A lot of the carbon build up can sometimes be caused by dust from the motor brushes. However, there can be other issues with motors that demand a full inspection of the motor which would be wise for safety reasons. Or, alternately, I would suggest replacing the motor if the smoke does not stop.

[@apolloknightly]

What does a motor sound like when there is a bad bearing? Mine is rough that I just picked up

[@abelincoln95]

I got lucky. I tried to separate the two halves but only got the motor halves about an inch apart and then just erred to the side of caution & put it back together. I might add that the two bolts that run through the length of the machine can fall into the motor housing. Like I said, I got very lucky. 45 minutes later I got it back together & it works fine. I just wanted to check the brushes.

[@fouroakswisconsin]

I have a White 626. Approximately 1959 manufactured. It does not have the small oil ports on the motor. Did you ever find a way to access the brushes on a motor like this. The motor started to give off a slight musty burn scent. I heard someone say that if you just ran the motor hard, you could burn off the dust. Do you think this would harm it? The machine has never been used a great deal. It was my Mother’s.

[@allisonjoel1]

Hi. Regarding sewing machine issues, my neighbour has a Crown Point 645FL sewing machine and she said it smokes and has stopped using it. I've not seen the machine working. I am unable to say which part, I guess it's most probably the motor. Do you have an idea what the problem could be?

[@MO3B1N2YT]

What if the machine doesn’t have the little holes to deposit the oil? My Janome novum motor is making a whirring noise (it’s from around 1960’s). The machine is still running and creating beautiful stitches but the whirring is a little concerning. Any tips please

[@Chowah]

Can you put/organize all of your "Series" videos into a Playlist on your KZbin Channel? I have a hard time going back and finding the appropriate video

[@dkelker1]

Hit sav & create folder

[@sandinajda-beck8251]

Hi, I have the Dressmaker S-2402. The motor has 2 holes per side instead of just one per side. You added 1 drop to each side. The top hole is like you said at 12 o'clock. The other hole is at 6 o'clock. Both sides. Should I add 1 drop to all four holes or only the 12 o'clock holes? Thanks.

[@jays3349]

Hi.Great advice for motors.mine has no holes for lubricating and when l stitch l smell some hottest smell please advice

[@monicareinhart9624]

I bought a necchi esperia. The manual says 59 on the back. I just had the motor serviced since it smelled bad when operating, and the necchi fb page suggested it. He said it was bone dry. I have barely used it at all since I don't know how to sew yet, haven't used at all since getting motor back last week, because I need to get the handwheel off. I didn't know about oiling the motor and the manual doesn't mention oiling the motor at all. He told me to put one drop on each side Every Time I sew. I've heard otherwise since, and would like to know the truth please. My motor looks very similar to the one in your video. Thanks.

[@ummabdurrahman1]

I've got a Sears Kenmore 158.433; and although it's a beaut, it's in need of a little tlc. Why is this model so hard to gain info on? I think I need to replace the motor (sparking), and a little oil. But I'm having the worse time finding help for this model😩

[@danilei6045]

I am working on the same. The manual is brief as well. What have you discovered?

[@ummabdurrahman1]

@@danilei6045 I ended up replacing the motor with an Amazon kit. The only drawback is that the motor in the kit does not have altering speeds. No matter the pressure on the peddle, it just goes from 0-100; and it takes some getting used to and stopping a lot during tricky edges.

[@priscillasong635]

Hi! Your videos have been such a great resource for me - recently I bought a Kenmore 158.17520, and I'm slowly working on restoring her. So thank you! One issue I've been having is that when you turn the handwheel forward, it makes a squeaking sound near the drive shaft/motor casing (not sure if that's the right term - the part that connects the motor and the motor belt). I don't think it's internal issue, but I'm not entirely sure. I'm hesitant to oil anything in that area for all of the reasons you mentioned in this video, but I don't really have any other ideas. Do you have any thoughts?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Priscilla and thank you for your question. Its funny that you ask about that model as it is one of my favorite Kenmores and one of the strongest they had thoughout the 1960's. And I actually have one too!!! It is in my line of machines to overhaul and so I will try to remember to make a video on the motor. There is a necessary oiling point for the bearings (only guessing that is the cause of your squeak as it could be many things). I can show where that oiling point is. And yes, its very important to never oil any sewing motor EXCEPT for where the bearings require lubrication. Some older motors used grease but this one uses sewing machine oil. Keep watching for when I do the video on that model. Great color scheme too!

[@prizzfizz]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you, I'll keep an eye out for that video in the future! I'm a fan of the color too. I think I'm going to name my machine "Pistachio" cause of the green.

[@ayankamwana7751]

Hi priscilla I have a kenmore and when I sew I see sparks by the motor

[@danilei6045]

So we should clean all the black dust inside with a qtip?

[@_miichelle]

Hi! I’m hoping you can help me with this. I have a Remington Deluxe ZigZag model 139 that my grandma gave me like 20 years ago and I’ve been trying to figure out how to oil the motor. The motor is a Monarch model 6A, and it doesn’t have any oil ports on the exterior. Is there any way I can email you some photos of the motor to see if you can help me figure out where and how to lubricate it? I’m not having any issues with it-it runs fine and it’s not smoking or anything-I just want to make sure it lives as long as possible. It’s been around since the 1960s! Thank you!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Great question Michelle. Some motors did not come with the oiling port holes and so there is no way to really lubricate the bushings although you are wise to ask since that can prolong the motor's useful life. Fortunately, if your motor should ever wear out, you can get generic replacements.

[@sharondavidson7072]

What year did they enclose the motors inside sewing machines I wonder?

[@carlabythelake8162]

Your videos are so well done. A good mix of entertaining and informative. I was recently given a White 6477 and it's cams. I found a manual for it and gave it a thorough clean. But, while there is no apparent problem with her ability to zigzag, the cams won't make proper stitches. Have you ever dealt with this machine and do you have suggestions? I'm coming up empty.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Carla. Your raise an important point about the use of cams that need to be inserted vs. those built in. There are 3 basic potential causes for this kind of issue that I am aware of. First, there are linkages that work to "follow" along the edge of the cam that will then link to the needle bar through a mechanism which will vary with each machine/model design. The linkages can vary in complexity but to be fair to the engineers, they were designing mechanical devices that were literally physical guides for the needle unlike modern computerized models. Here are 3 possible troubleshooting strategies: 1. Check to see that all of the linkage system is cleaned and or lubricated to ensure it can operate. The more complex a machine's mechanicals, the more there is to get moving again if like most machines, yours has sat dormant at some point in the past. 2. Check to see if the layout of the linkage/mechanicals appears visually the way it does in the manual. Sometimes, prior users can move them improperly and they can be stuck out of position as originally designed. 3. The manual can also be quite helpful because in many cases, while built in cams are even MORE complex, even machines like yours that allowed for cams to be inserted still often have a number of "SPECIAL" settings that the machine requires before they will engage with the cam. So if the manual directs you adjust 2 settings (It could be more) and you have only adjusted one or perhaps none of them, the cam won't engage. As I often tell my clients, Heirloom vintage machines rarely if ever break. They will simply not function until and if they get either needed service or adjustments made to them. It can also help to be patient with yourself since it can take a while to make you way around a new machine until it becomes familiar enough that you can sew efficiently with it. Although I have not had the specific model nor made a video of it, there may be someone with a blog that can illustrate how it operates. Don't give up though. That machine should be old enough to be Heirloom grade and it was likely very well made.

[@carlabythelake8162]

Thanks so much for your suggestions. I will look over the linkages as best I can. Sadly they are not pictured in the manual. I am however, following the manual as closely as I can given that it is rather sparse lol. I have found one video, and that is it for resources on this machine so far. Perhaps it wasn't very popular lol. Fingers crossed and I won't give up!

[@debraclogston9379]

Can you help me figure out what I just bought? It's a KenQuilt 633 long arm quilter. Have I just bought trouble? It seems to run well and strong. Should it be put on a carriage or should it go in a table. The quilt frame is an Inspira. Is is steady enough to put the new machine on? the KenQuilt is very heavy and has an open base. Many thanks.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

There is a group in Yahoo Groups called, "Home Quilting Systems" and there may be others. There should be a wealth of info there that would be specific to your KenQuilt. I am not familiar with those personally, but you should be able to find fellow owners who can guide you.

[@skatelife2013]

Hello, if you dont have a hole in the shell of the motor for bearing lubrication, where do you put the drop of oil? Thanks in advance.

[@jimmypham2487]

Those are bushings not bearing

[@Dubidub2]

Thanks for the information. Should think, that you could have some tool to be inserted through the air ventilation holes, and able to hold back the brushings until you insert the rotor with commutator. I got a chineese motor 5 years ago. It do have outside acces to replace brushings. But it do not have lubrication holes. So I take it apart now to lubricate bearings. I am not sure to do it right through the ventilation holes. Actually the motor I got from China was a 180 W motor of only 0.5 kg. It is more a heating element, than a motor with shaft power. The Watt value is the input power. For a new motor, I should look for the weight. A significant Price part is copper and steel for a motor like that. If you reduce that and have a high watt value, a larger part will be converted to heat. And it can be hot. So ask for the motor weight for a new motor. It should be at least 1 kg. It is no garantee of shaft power, but it is an easy thing to measure in the supply chain and can give you some more confidence.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Unfortunately, I do not know of any tool that can be used to hold back BOTH brushes which is needed to reinsert the driveshaft of the motor. I would NOT use any of the holes in the side of this motor since you cannot know if you might cause damage. It is great that you have access to brushes on your motor. I much prefer the older motors to work on since you are correct in that copper was used in higher amounts in years past and newer motors often scrimp on copper and other metals to save money. This may be different on industrial size motors but for these small ones, I am currently searching for a supply of better quality replacements.

[@Dubidub2]

I think I should make some tool from some steel foil. Perhaps from a can of beans :) I have seen a China motor of 250 W, and the supplier have garanteed me a weight of 1.3 kg. So perhaps I shall try this out. By the way. I have measured the shaft power and moment curves from 4 of these motors. I think I should send them to you. The max shaft power of the 180 W motor was 52 W at 230 VAC input. The motor from the old Singer 201k I got, it was only 16 W.

[@Dubidub2]

I have not been able to find a way to contact you. So you will get at link here to Graphics of the shaft power mesurement results. www.dropbox.com/s/ajmf2g739w2vcz2/Sewing%20machine%20motor%20shaft%20power.png?dl=0

[@MildredGlutz]

I bought a 1954 Singer 15-90 that is in great condition. Seems to have not been used much. The motor is one of those with apparently no access. I was wondering if I should do anything with it, grease/oil it somehow just because it's so old, but I don't see anywhere to do so. No accessible ports. I would imagine you’ve seen a few of these motors. Is there a place on these motors to put a drop of oil?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Mildred. All of the 15-90 models I have seen had a rear mounted motor that uses a belt and so it should have access IF IT'S THE ORIGINAL MOTOR. If yours does not use a belt and its from 1954, there is a chance that you might have a direct drive gear motor. These do not use belts and are today casually referred to as "Potted Motors" due to the appearance of their housing. I have only noted the Potted motors on the 15-91 version of the Singer 15's but Singer did make some running changes over the many years those machines were in production. Of course, I have not seen your machine up close and so its always possib15-90 motor and you can compare that with what you see on your 15-90 to verify if yours is direct geared or uses a belt. The original motor should have used grease for its bearings and NOT sewing machine oil. The grease ports on many (But not all) Singer motors from that era often had Chrome/Nickel colored grease ports that are shaped like upright cylinders. And so unless your machine was altered or "updated" with a different motor at some time in its long life (and that is quite possible) you won't have a small hole like you see on this grey colored White brand machine here in this video.

[@MildredGlutz]

Hi Vintage Sewing Machine Garage, It’s the belt driven motor. I was trying to date the motor by its cat. no., BAJ3-8, and saw one on eBay for sale that was supposedly from a 1955 model 66 Singer, so I think it could be the original motor. Then again, who knows? Both motor and machine were made in Canada, if that means anything.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Your questions remind me that I might want to do a MOTOR SERIES video on that motor type.

[@MildredGlutz]

Vintage Sewing Machine Garage Thanks! That would be very helpful! I’m not going to do anything to this motor unless and until I find out it’s ok to do it.

[@blancop2227]

Hi Mildred. I have a 15-90 with the same BAJ3-8 motor. It does take a bit of grease in the two grease 'cups' that look like little tubes that poke up vertically out of the round knobs at each end of the motor. You can find a manual for this beautiful machine on the ismacs.net site - look under the research tab for Singer, then follow that link to the Singer page where you will find manuals for many of their machines. The 15-90 manual has lots of good information including machine oiling points and motor lubrication (no oil for the motor).

[@maowiedumangas237]

Does your sewing machine motor has 220 volts?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello. No, these machines are for the North American Market where all home sewing machines (consumer grade) are 110-120 volts. Some Industrial machines here use 220 volts but not for home use.

[@maowiedumangas237]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage ok sir thanks.

[@cassandrablanc216]

I can't locate any oil port in my electric motor.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

It could be that yours might have been manufactured without a port. Over time, motors and the machines themselves increasing were made with "Lifetime Bearings" which is another way of making things less serviceable. But there is not way to know for certain without seeing the motor.