RV Electrical System Solar and Lithium Battery Upgrade - Start-to-Finish Guide

[@EXPLORISTlife]

❗❗ *IF YOU WANT A SYSTEM LIKE THIS:* ❗❗ *Here is the core kit:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-retrofit-2000w-inverter-200-1000ah-battery-bank-dc-dc-charger-wiring-diagram-kit/ *Also available with a 3kVA Inverter:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-upgrade-400-1200ah-battery-bank-multiplus-3k-12-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/ *And then you can add whatever solar you like/need from these options (12V battery bank options):* shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/ Or... *Here is the EXACT setup we showed in this video:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/travel-trailer-electrical-upgrade-270ah-battery-multiplus-2k-12v-800w-solar-orion-12-12-30/ *GET $50 OFF PER BATTLE BORN BATTERY WITH CODE explorist AT CHECKOUT:* battlebornbatteries.com/shop/brands/battle-born-batteries/?afmc=explorist_bb67

[@bryansbusadventure4783]

I purchased all this before I found your site Sad but that is reality The reason I want to know about C rates is as I am a DYI person and want you to know build my own batteries Of course cost is a huge factor in this choice

[@mikethomsen5096]

can i do a 3000 w inverter instead of a 2000w for this system

[@netguyaz]

The link is broken?

[@Ulyssez79]

@EXPLORISTlife Is the converter never used again after install? Also should the charging wire to the 7 pin be disconnected after the dc to dc install?

[@andrewhofmann5453]

I dont think you guys know how much we have been waiting for an RV related video that works for us all! This is great. Thanks!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @andrewhofmann5453! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@mikesnifferpippets3733]

Agreed! I have learned so much by watching just a few videos… I feel like such a nerd 😂

[@1gesteban]

Why is solar panel wiring such a "thinner" gauge? Do they eventually need to be "thicker" with the more solar panels in use?

[@sbramel93]

@@1gestebanthe higher the voltage the thinner the wiring you can get by with because you size the wire by amps

[@OfficialDeanC]

I have been racking my brain for weeks on how to do this exact set up easily for my travel trailer. And this is the greatest find in my KZbin history! You have no idea the amount of help this gives me and how happy I am to have found this video! Thank you so much!

[@Swerly01]

I really hope you're on the payroll and get shares of Victron. You guys do an amazing job of explaining everything.

[@chrisjohnson4110]

I could watch this stuff all day. Is it uncommon that I am contemplating a career change, so I can do cool stuff like this all the time? I've done a lithium battery and the 712 with inverter and new converter in my little TT so far, solely from the confidence and complete explanations of each step that you provide. Thank you Nate and Steph!

[@betterwithrum]

Hey thank you for putting this video together! It is the most comprehensive video I've seen on going from zero to fully decked out. I have to figure out how I'm going to run power to the Multpass 2 and back to the fuse panel, but one problem at a time!

[@briandumont7619]

This video is great! I'm almost done retrofitting my daughters 30 amp OEM system and this helped fill in some final pieces. Also, your wiring kits are fantastic. I have sourced most of my upgrade through you with excellent shipping times and accuracy. Great job!

[@glenludwig5135]

My God. Best video ever on changing to Solar. I wish you would do that same setup to a 48 volt system. Thanks

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it was helpful! A 48V system would not be beneficial in this setup. It's too small.

[@JesseHires]

I have an RV trailer that is nearly identical to the one in your video. Thanks for this.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Our pleasure! Thanks for watching!

[@ascenttev6022]

Stephanie has truly turned out to be an A+++ PRODIGY. Your tutorials has always been helpful, we appreciate your input.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @ascenttev6022! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@jasonb9913]

I used Anderson connectors on my truck for the DC-DC charger I have, its great. So great, that I cut the power cord to my Viair compressor and put an Anderson connector in the middle of that. Now I can power it from the rear bumper or connect the original clamps to battery up front.

[@billharrington172]

Great Idea!

[@housesOTR]

I upgraded my Imagine 17MKE to 300 Ah of lithium, 3000 watt inverter, two solar chargers. Works very well. 370 watts on the roof and 200-400 watts portable. Great video. Glad to see you both in it.

[@richardroberts1090]

These video's and wiring kit packages are just plain Awsome Nat and his crew have taken so much guess work out of the processes and planning.

[@ghostpepperrides4805]

Outstanding. As a retired electrical/Mechanical contractor I understand most of this. The equipment is new to me. Thank you. I’m subscribed.

[@scottd143]

What a great video. Your technical knowledge and explanations are priceless. Also your kits are easy to use for us DIYers.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @scottd143! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@guttermastersplus5613]

Finally someone that explains the thing the right way and the simple way highly intelligent good video

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @guttermastersplus5613, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@tomwilliam5118]

You guys do a top-notch job. So clean so detailed is unbelievable

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @tomwilliam5118, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@erickessler6094]

Nate & Steph, It was so nice to see the beautiful job you did on Kurt & Laurie's 22MLE! OMG, I say, because my wife & I, also retired (and my college buddy Murf & Nancy) have 22MLE's as well! 😎 Mine 2023 came with a charge controller & Solar on roof, but we want "MORE POWER" lol. Maybe 3 or 4 panels? All I have done so far is upgraded to a 12v 230Ah LiTime battery. 1. I've watched your 12v vs 24v discussion and wondered if building the same system you did for Kurt & Laurie... but with a 24V Battery & System would have good advantages? 2. Also I love that Victron Power Assist feature, but could I use that with my lil 1600w (2000w surge) inverter generator to create enough power to run Air Conditioning? 3. Where are you & your shop located? Cheers, Eric

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! 1: There is no reason to do this system as 24V. 2: Probably. Especially if you've got a soft-start on the AC. If you want a guarentee that the AC will work; you'll want the next size up on the Multiplus (3k) w/ a little bigger battery bank (400Ah minimum). 3: Northwest Colorado. We ship worldwide, though, and ship for free on orders over $200 within the contiguous USA.

[@erickessler6094]

​@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for your reply. If I understand correctly, the combo of my battery bank (with a 2nd 230Ah battery) and my 1600W Generator (and magic of the Victron "Power Assist") WILL power my Soft Start AC. But best if the Inverter-Charger were 3000 vice 2000. With 3000W capability, am I at risk of the stock Battery wires overheating? I noticed your battery relocation kit used much heavier wire to the stock batery box location. Cheers, Eric

[@dtburrows]

Most helpful video I've seen. Thank you

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it was helpful!

[@richardmckinley7358]

Incredible video! First video I’ve ever seen of an installation with all the components. Thank you so very much.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad you liked it! Cheers!

[@ScottyDaum-o4x]

Have watched tons of your videos, and they are fantastic. Still have to purchase a few items and then finally get on with installing it all. Thank you for being so generous with your tech know how. You guys are great!!!!

[@GirdHerd]

Another outstanding "how to" video. I purchased and followed your detailed diagram for a 3000w system a few years ago and the system is still working great. If I was doing an install today, I would definitely buy all of the necessary install kits from you to make sourcing easier. Keep up the great work.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @19ken49! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@travis93635]

Thanks so much for making this. I have been looking into how to do this for my class c entegra odyssey se 22af. This video cleared up a lot of questions. It looks like everything will be about the same.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Perfect! Here to help if you need us: shop.explorist.life

[@paulmalone7323]

This was very helpful. Just purchased a Brinkley Z 2900 and will source one of your kits after we get home after our month long trip in August. You folks make it look so easy.

[@jameskelly143]

I'm trying to convert a camper trailer to a tiny home after losing my mother. Trying to move forward. Your solar information it is helpful

[@krystalmuff8773]

You guys are so great! I just watched my first video from you guys and you made everything seems so easy that you went step-by-step. I really do appreciate the time you’re taking to do this. I bought my first fifth wheel open Road camper a couple weeks ago and I’m just learning everything I can’t wait to see more of your videos

[@donclark4063]

What a great resource. You guys are so clear and concise with your tutorials. Excellent videos. Bravo!

[@berthaduniverse]

Nate, great work. One kinda significant point, the solar panel roof anchors were not installed properly. Ideally the surface between the roof and bracket should have been pre-caulked and then anchored (using something like Sikaflex or Lexel), then lap-sealed around all 4 sides and holes. The way it was done here, capillary action will draw water under the back of the plate on the one uncaulked side, and allow a leak or backerboard to rot.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks for watching! The tape we used is specifically designed to form a waterproof gasket. I know this may not be enough for everybody (much like everthing I show on this channel 🤣), and if that's you, feel free to dicor/seal where/however you like.

[@berthaduniverse]

@@EXPLORISTlife sorry, didn't see the tape, must have missed it. I agree, a Bituthene like product can work well in a "smoothish" surface.

[@chachi5975]

For those that don't have a solid roof on their travel trailer, using channel strut into the crossbars of the roof make a secure mounting bracket for solar panels. If your travel trailer is an ultra lite and didn't come with a ladder attached, it's probably too thin to simply screw into and hold the panels.

[@Chantheman235]

In the process of adding a Victron DC to DC charger in my trailer as well. Thank you for the excellent tutorials, they have been extremely helpful!

[@Justthe2ofUs843]

As an installer, I approve this video. Well done. 👍👍

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@SteveHyams]

I have completed my splice and connection to the inverter with the existing converter breaker off, everything works great. I am wondering if I can just remove the existing converter because it will provide a perfect location for the splice box. Can I just remove it or is there more to it?

[@12v_obsession92]

Hey Nate, good install. A few things to consider here: The anderson connector on the truck could have benefited from a springback protected cover with grommets like the one supplied from trailer vision, likewise the anderson on the RV should have a cable sheath and rubber cover. The terminals will corrode and fill with water/dust in no time. For monitoring the the Cerbo GX would have been a great compliment to the system. Hope it doesn't get too warm down there under load. Anyway keep up the good work mate👍

[@tonyrardon3227]

I used the Trailer Vision to cover up my SB50 connector on the truck and wrapped all wires in a cable sheathing to give it a nice clean look and protect the wires.

[@theghostlyorb]

You made this look so easy! DC-DC charging is on my list eventually and I can't believe how simple you made it out to be!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks! Yeah, it's easy to overthink that charging leg of the system. Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

[@billharrington172]

BTW, I purchased the wiring diagram for this install an it has been super helpful. Well done!

[@johnplyler7054]

The biggest problem for me is not the install, but the firmware updates. I don't design websites, but I think some major improvements could be made. I remember one site where you had to read down to the very bottom of the page and then click on this one word that was not even marked as access to the update! Thanks for another nice Sunday morning video!

[@FulltimingBrinkley3950]

Thanks!

[@sethandersson7021]

I really could've used this a year and a half ago! 😂 Thanks for all the great advice!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@toniawilkins-schafer8130]

Love your videos. Would you have an update as to how the Multiplus performed mounted on its side? I would like to get the Mutiplus 2x 120 but I have an older model RV and the height in my bays are under 23 inch in height. I thought of doing a side mount.

[@michaelparks3106]

I have pretty much the same system on my Grand Design 2670MK, but since I have a 50amp system I went with the MultiPlus II. I did the wiring is a way that I think was a little easier, required less cable so it was less expensive, and has fewer connectors so there are less points of failure. For the shore power, instead of running a cable from the stock shore power line at the fuse box to the MultiPlus, I just disconnected the shore power wire from the fuse box, unscrewed the socket from the outside wall and pulled the whole thing out. I then drilled a hole (I think it was 2") and screwed the connector to the wall next to the storage compartment where the MultiPlus was, the stock wire was more than long enough to reach it directly. So I only needed one Romex 6/4 cable to go back to the fuse box for the 110v line, not two. For the 12v coach battery same idea, instead of running "battery relocation" wires from the new battery to the old battery location, i just rerouted the stock factory wires direct to the new battery. Once you drop the belly pan, pulling the wires from the old location to the new is very simple, and since the battery in the storage compartment is closer to the fuse box than the old one was, the wires are more than long enough. I've always felt that the less wires and connectors needed to get the job done, the better. Other than that, great video.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Neato! There are 100 different ways to do this stuff and I'm glad you found a way that works for your specific application. What you described won't work for most people as the wire lengths are often not long enough to accomplish that, and if somebody has Jack's, slides, or generators, running the factory 12v wiring to the lynx distributor will not deliver enough power to run as that factory wiring is only big enough to run the converter and not necessarily those larger oem items. But yeah, glad you found what works for your specific application. They way I showed will work for 99% of applications, which is more what I'm interested it. But other than that, good comment.

[@camperbum]

Very good and cool how you showed what it takes to have a good system. Thanks.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thanks so much for watching! Cheers!

[@rudivandoornegat2371]

This will be another classic video of the Explorist life channel. In the video on Victron Energy KZbin channel titled Victron VW Van Electrics Install - Episode 3 Mains Electricity at 4:45 min they put a 3D printed protection cap for the Lynx system. Maybe EL could sell these too in the future for people that are interested?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Ah, nice! Good idea!

[@ejmtnt]

Dry educational video and nicely done. But who wants a system that doesn’t run the AC for at least 8-10 hours?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Somebody who lives in Minnesota and travels around that area where the temps don't get high enough. We have versions of this kit that can run the air conditioner indefinitely if that's what you're looking for in your camper. Hit us up: shop.explorist.life

[@OnyxRayven1]

Thanks!

[@richardwolf6269]

Could you do this with a solar generator instead greatly simplifying the setup?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

It wouldn’t be as powerful nor have the quality of components which would result in do-overs over time. What we did was a permanent solution.

[@the_searchers]

Thanks guys. I really like the way you break it down

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey @the_searchers, Thanks so much! Cheers!

[@EBKRV412]

Another awesome detailed video guys! What a great install this is I'm sure the owners are very happy. Do you happen to have a link to the blind bolt kit you used to attached the ground from the lynx dist to the frame?

[@heashepard23]

I have a 2019 sprinter 170 extended with 60K miles and many options including 10 inch display and cameras all around. Following your instructions, I added a 500 watt inverter (only about a 30amp draw) to position 6 in the tray using 2awg wire. Connecting to the X145 term #1 I ran a wire to a 200 amp isolator so that the inverter could only operate when the engine was running. This was for emergency purposes if my rerar 3500 watt inverter connected to 800ah lithium battery bank ever crapped out. After putting everything back the engine started right away. took it for a test drive and everything seemed to work as intended, BUT after driving 70 miles to camp on a friends mountain property ---the chassis battery was below 12 volts and it would not start I fact the entire MB side of the house was blacked out--NO LIGHTS ete Borrowing a charger and a long extension cord I was able to get the battery to 12.9 volts and restarted the van in the morning. It immediately went into fast idle mode (an option I did not select when I purchased the van) and this lasted about 10 minutes before slowing to 800 rpms. Driving it out of the mountains, there was a check engine light and glow plug light as well as a battery warning message --also none of the lane keeping or adaptive speed control would work. After replacing the battery and charging it overnight, all functions returned. It has been to the dealer twice. At their suggestion, I disconnected the inverter from the tray. BUT it still does not appear that the alternator is charging the battery.. I returned from a 4500 mile trip camping around the Great Lakes last month. The van ran like a champ averaging 20mpg and never having an issue starting. Do you have any idea what could have gone so wrong? The dealer's head Sprinter Tech said since 2019 the alternator and entire electrical system is mighty touchy. He suggested if I would like to again connect into the OEM electrical system to do so at the battery.

[@OfficialDeanC]

I think the only thing I would like to see to make it truly “off grid” is for the air conditioner to be able to run without the assistance of shore power. I can’t imagine it would be much more difficult to make that happen. 25:35

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Certainly! We have larger kits that can accommodate that. Reach out at shop.explorist.life/support and we can build you out a cart/system for your project that will accommodate air conditioner usage.

[@mattcruz5915]

These videos are amazing and make me think I could DIY this (with no electrical experience). I'm going to let a professional do the first install, but I look forward to the day where I will DIY my next camper electrical.

[@dancanrv2]

GREAT job/video ... mentioning the approximate price of components and cables/parts could be very useful !!! cheers

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Better than that, I shared where to find the EXACT price in the pinned comment.

[@hexd2g]

Great video! Can't wait to follow your guide for my Grand Design Imagine. Did you reinforce the wall to install all the Victron components? Would the Victron Multiplus 3000 be enough to power the AC and would it have any heat issues in the storage bay? Thank you!

[@mausie1967]

Love your videos. Not just this one but all of them

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @mausie1967! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@lesliebright3860]

22:10 while I can pull the fuse panel and access the are behind it, running the line from that side of the camper to the front where the inverter is would be, challenging (similar to your need to run underneath); however, the shore power inlet, being on the opposite side of the camper, on the same side as the inverter, and there exists a raceway along that side: can you think of a reason to not simply have the shore power intercept right where it comes in, instead of where it enters the factory panel?

[@cpwatching5647]

Excellent video for the 30A trailer folks like me. Appreciate the details...well done. I'm thinking about a game changer prep as I build my system. Thanks!! Take care.

[@rgknowlton1]

Are you sure 6 AWG is the appropriate size for the DC-DC Charger? The Victron install instructions say to use 16mm2 (~6 AWG) for circuit length up to 10m; however, this seems to be the length of the positive conductor only in the illustration. With a truck and trailer that long, the entire circuit length (positive and negative conductors from the starter battery all the way to the DC Charger) probably far exceeds that 10 meter length. That caused significant voltage drop for me and I didn't get full output from the DC Charger until I upsized to 2 AWG wire and shortened the circuit length. I have a discussion on the Victron Community Forum about this.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Indeed I am sure 6ga is the proper size. In fact, I made a video about a year ago about how wire size and voltage drop affects chargers: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zqmyp3yEfZmngdU

[@rgknowlton1]

@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the link. Because the smart alternator in my 2017 Tacoma is goofy (controlled completely by the ECM and never outputs more than about 13.5v), the 6% voltage drop I was experiencing through the 6 AWG wire over a total circuit length of 60 feet was enough to complicate the Engine Shutdown Detection settings. By the time I got the Shutdown Voltage set low enough to account for the 6% voltage drop (and the fact that the Tacoma ECM regularly turns the alternator voltage output down to

[@EXPLORISTlife]

An ignition wire to the 'h' pin of Orion is sorta the stop-gap for situations like that.

[@FarmerCal]

Great video. If the RV had an onboard generator, how would you accommodate that with the equipment you have used in the video?

[@maxxonetwo3]

Can I bring my camper to you ? Depending on how far you are. You can install this system for me. Thank you again for a great clear speaking video. Lake George,NY

[@EXPLORISTlife]

We have installers you can take your camper to: explorist.life/find-a-certified-installer/

[@leehwhiz]

How do you determine the fuse amperage for each mega fuse in the distribution block

[@VideoJocky1]

You indicate putting the Mega Fuse on the buss bar. I would be nice to know what rating of fuse and how you calculated the fuse amps. Good video.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Fuse sizes are dependent on the component powered and the fuses are included in the kits so there’s nothing to ‘calculate’

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Did you need help finding those kits? shop.explorist.life

[@richardcranium8408]

A well timed video. I’m doing an install for my boat.

[@shadowfire77]

Great video as usual. Still curious about the heat anticipation and how the stress test went out with the multiplus mounted horizontally.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

We had no overheating alarms during our testing.

[@camustang1966]

Have you looked at the new flexible solar panels from Bouge RV (CIGS)? Are they practical for RV roof installation and usage? This was a great video. Probably the most comprehensive, yet snappy videos explaining this whole process. Well done. I have a fifth wheel, but I could adapt this to my situation very easily. Thank you!

[@wayneogden1510]

I have watch this video multiple times and have found it very informative for my upcoming upgrade to the same type of trailer. Why did you run a 2AWG wire approximately 10’ to the battery box when the connection only feeds a 8AWG wire going approximately 3’ from the battery box to the trailer? The 2AGW seems to be overkill.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Because it works in 100% of use cases.

[@bobwojcik6196]

A great video. Your explanation really helps me better understand the whole process. Currently have a Sprinter Van I purchased used that has a rather sketchy system and know it’s going to need updating.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@VictorHenning-ip9ky]

Quick question. I purchased the wireing diagram for this project and have found it very helpful. The diagram shows 4x100ah batteries. I am using 2 and not placing in a Multi plus as of yet. The fuse size on the Lynx Dist for the wire running from the Lynx to the existing battery terminals is 150 amp. Since I am using 2 100ah lithium batteries do I still use the same fuse size?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

If you purchased those wires/fuses/components from shop.explorist.life, shoot us a support ticket at shop.explorist.life/support and we can check into what you've already purchased and ensure it's correct for you.

[@John-eq8cu]

A pretty good installation. I did a similar one in my camper, but i used the 2kW Aims inverter/charger. With that system, the AC electrical is limited to 2kW, so I had to wire the inverter loads on a sub-panel, and wire the high-power circuits (AC and HotWater) directly to shore power. But the nice thing about the Victron Multiplus is that you don't need to do that, as the "hybrid inverter" will take extra power and 'mix' it with the battery power, all the way up to 30 amps. If I were to do it again, i'd use the Victron.

[@jjsantos3292]

Great work! Absolutely love the way these videos are put together, thank you!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thank you very much!

[@andrewk1916]

@Explorist Life Team - Awesome video for us TT DIYers! Thank you for creating these videos and offering the equipment and kits via your store. As many others have previusly said, your work and videos coupled with your store makes sourcing and installing for us DIYers easy, safe and uncomplicated! You pointed out on this install that this particular system was too undersized (meaning battery bank) to power the AC compressor. But could a samll 300amp hour(ish) system power a 15K AC compressor if the AC has a soft-start OR a 13.5K AC with a soft start? My assumption is "Yes" but I'm hoping you can give a quick clarification. Thank you again for the great work!

[@frankbach]

I don't understand why you used an isolated Orion TR Smart if the negativ bus bar from the Lynx is connected to the frame of the trailer and the trailer is connected to the frame of the towing vehicle (when driving) and this car frame is connected to the negativ of the starting batterie and there is the cabel to the negativ input of the Orion connected. My question is 1: why not using an unisolated Orion? and 2: is it ok to shunt negativ input and output of this isolated Orion? Thanks for helping me to understand...

[@awall_wants2no]

Love your videos. Been waiting for this one. How come you grounded the solar charge controller to the inverter/charger? as oppose to doubling up on the ground stud on the lynx distributor? Can you do this with any inverter? I have used your videos to upgrade my rv's lead acid batteries with 2 100 amp hour battleborn batteries, the lynx distributor, and I am currently adding the victron MPPT Charger controller. I did find your videos after i upgrade my oem WFCO converter/charger for one that has a lithium battery switch and I am keeping my existing Xantrax 2000 Inverter. I am not sure if i can/should ground the solar charge controller to my Xantrax 2000 Inverter or what the alternative would be. Thanks for all these videos! i just let them play all day while I am at work!

[@mikemcguire5859]

Nate. Great DIY/PRO videos. My question is, why not use the tined lugs vice regular copper lugs and get away from any corrosion on lugs and bare copper bus bars. Thanks for sharing all your great content.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

All of the wire in the camper is un-tinned copper. I suspect that the ceiling and floor will rot away before our un-tinned wires need to be replaced due to corrosion. Tinned lugs are really only needed in marine/salty envrionments.

[@chrisjohnson4110]

I think my only question on this whole install is... Could you pull the wires back in to the pass-through that came from the factory battery on the tongue? That way you could get rid of wires running up to the tongue in that area would be nice and clean.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The way we showed is the way that will work for 99% of RV's on the road regardless of if they have only 1 pair of connections on the tongue or 16. If you want to stray from that and re-wire factory equipment, that's your prerogative, but we can't offer customer support on that if that's the chosen direction.

[@paimormusicstudio6423]

Great video, i always enjoy your detailed explanations. What am i missing because I am currently using an all in one EG4 3kw invertor, with a EG4 48v battery. Then all i had to do was run the AC output from the EG4 invertor to the RV shore input..done, very simple installation. The solar panels just plug into the EG4 and charge the EG4 battery, and i can charge the house batteries as well. I use my house rv batteries for emergencies. And the EG4 also has an AC input for a generator to charge the batteries quickly. however i am in a permanent location so perhaps that is different.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

Great video thanks. One question... Why make the 12Volt connection in the old battery box instead of bringing it inside and eliminating the old box?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Great question! When we were deciding how to design these systems, a main focus was to make it so these videos are repeatable by nearly everybody wanting to upgrade their camper regardless of make/model of camper. Most campers on the road have a dozen or so various wires connected to the OEM battery; which would not be feasible to move inside; so we are just bringing power to the OEM battery for those following along who have a bunch of connections at the battery (see the last full install in a truck camper for an example of an OEM battery with a LOT of connections/wires.)

[@chachi5975]

​@@EXPLORISTlifeyep, and there's usually some circuit breakers located right there on the tongue, the tongue jack and slides are usually on separate breakers up there.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yeah, the OEM wiring up under the tongue was a bit of a mess and I didn't quite understand where everything was going; but ultimately, we didn't need to spend any time figuring any of that out since it was working just fine from the factory and we just needed to supply power to all of those pre-existing circuits; regardless of what they were going to.

[@chachi5975]

​@@EXPLORISTlifeyeah I was wondering how you were going to tackle that since every rig is different. I was able to move mine inside to a busbar next to my battery bank. Unfortunately I built mine before the lynx distributor was available.

[@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234]

@@EXPLORISTlife Great, thanks for the explanation.

[@bug512]

Thank you, your builds and videos are top notch. My question is why are the battery disconnects on the positive side? On Battle Born’s website it says “A battery disconnect switch can be installed on the negative or positive leads of a battery and it will effectively disconnect the whole circuit. However, installing the switch on the negative lead adds additional safety.” In years past when I worked on cars, RV’s and such the disconnect was always on the negative. Maybe you can comment.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

I've actually never seen a switch on the negative side in-person on an actual build. I prefer the switch being on the positive side because it will always cut off power without question. A switch on the negative leaves the positive wire powered which in my mind seems dangerous; but I also know it is another fairly widely common approach.

[@kcgunesq]

The studs coming off the distributor appear to be aluminum or possibly steel, assuming they aren't nickle coated copper. Assuming they aren't plated copper, is this the suggested way of making this connection?

[@szerszynski]

First let me say this is a first class video. Great job! Two things...when you connected to the chassis for ground, was that aluminum? I'd be concerned about corrosion at that connection because of the dissimilar metals. While both copper and aluminum both conduct well, they don't play nice together. Second, have you considered adding a soft starter to the A/C unit? That may make it to where it could run on the battery system.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The chassis ground isn’t carrying any kind of current under normal circumstances so that isn’t much of a concern for me. If it is for you, you could put some dielectric grease on the connection as you wish when you get to that step of your install A soft start would indeed give the air conditioner a better chance of firing up, but it would still really be pushing the limits of the equipment.

[@michaelskeels4442]

I have a question. Grand Designs usually makes an inverter prep which is seen in the storage bay. Its just a loop in the power line from the Shore power to the panel. If a person took advantage of this in the storage bay you wouldn't need to take a line back to the panel would you? You would essentially be tapping into the same line at a different place. Did this travel trailer not have an inverter prep loop on it? Second question. I have a 17 foot trailer with 30A shore power but I want a solar setup that will run my AC so I plan on around 500 watts on the roof and a 3k charger inverter. I want to use Victron but the Victron MultiPlus-II 2X Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt says it needs a 50A shore power. As long as I dont try and hook it up to 50A it shouldnt be a problem would it?

[@rocket1point0]

I've always enjoyed your videos and so happy to see you've expanded to more videos related to trailer conversions vice building a system from scratch. This is outstanding! I had some concerns / questions on this one: 1. What is driving such large awg cables for chassis grounding (e.g. 2/0 and 2 awg)? With the exception of marine applications, I thought 8 awg was called for at a minimum (unless, of course, you are using the chassis as the negative side of power distribution). 2. I would caution using the trailer's aluminum wall and compartment framing as a chassis ground source. There could be instances when these are not grounded to the chassis frame. I would recommend running this under the trailer to the main trailer frame. 3. How was the emergency brake disconnect accounted for? In the completed configuration, it appears that power to the emergency disconnect would not be present if the main battery disconnect was turned to the off position. Normally, the emergency brake disconnect switch is wired directly to the positive terminal of the battery (or in my trailer's case, to the unswitched side of the battery disconnect). Also, this is usually an unfused connection. Thanks again for such a great and informative video!

[@EXPLORISTlife]

1: ABYC states that the chassis ground shall be no smaller than 1 size smaller than the largest wire in the system. 2: Choose the most available and solidly attached piece of metal available to you in your installation so that the most metal on the van is connected to the battery negative. More often than not; the camper frame is electrically and physically connected to the trailer frame. 3: The electrical system 'new' main disconnect switch should remain on any time the camper is not in storage or under maintenance so that all of the factory systems work properly.

[@rjenkins133]

I am a bit nervous with putting the emergency brakes on the other side of the main disconnect switch. If you forget to turn on the main switch you will be travelling without emergency brakes. I would probably put the brakes on an unswitched branch of the battery bus. I am also a bit nervous about not using a fuse on the emergency brakes. A shorted wire on a large battery - whether lead acid or lithium can cause a fire. When everything is mounted on the metal frame of the trailer - the fire is probably less likely - but if the battery is inside and the wiring is bundled with other wires and through walls, etc. then I think a fire is more likely. I would fuse the the unswitched branch with fuse sized to operate the emergency brakes.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

@rjenkins133 That's fine, and you can do what you want, but the master disconnect is for storage only. There are certain things you need to 'remember' when towing a camper. If you 'forget' to plug in your 7 pin connector, you will also be without trailer brakes.

[@anthonygonzalez8953]

Any chance you will be doing a 50A OEM upgrade...I know it may be similar but with a few unique differences...this would be a great future video.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Yep! Week and a half and it'll be published.

[@RVingwithG]

😮😊just another GREAT VIDEO by Nate @ExploristLife Thanks buddy 😊

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Hey, @RVingwithG! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀

[@tompaoletti690]

Great video incredible detail!! but you eliminated a significant amount of storage 🤷🏻based on your trailer style/brand. Is there a smaller controller(s) that would work?

[@martynward2101]

Hi Nat, Great video as always. Just one thing has me puzzled. When installing a Victron smart shunt you, Victron and most other resources emphasise that the negative of all 12v circuits must be connected to the non battery side of the shunt, I seem to remember that the sticker on the shunt says "all 12v negatives" or something similar. I understand that this to ensure that all of the current drawn by the 12v circuits flows through the shunt, to ensure accurate S.O.C readings. What I don't understand is that in the video you have connected the other end of the negative buss bar to the vehicle chassis. Does that not mean that all your 12v items, lights, pump, fridge, heater etc will get their -ve from the chassis and therefore bypass the shunt and make it unable to get accurate charge and discharge reading. HELP. Cheers Martyn

[@EXPLORISTlife]

In this system: The ONLY ONLY ONLY thing that is on the 'batteries' side of the shunt; is the batteries; which is correct.

[@SaltyDog711]

Great video! by chance do you have a video that has a solar panel already installed on the roof by the manufacturer? I have a 24' Winnebago Micro Mini with a single solar panel on the roof and says it's prewired for an inverter but I'm not sure where to start and what I would need for a system like this. Thanks!

[@ParminderSingh-fg8rx]

I have a similar trailer and I would like to know what are you doing to cool down the system.

[@timf6916]

Good job. You guys are doing a fantastic work.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Thank you so much 😀

[@carykern6079]

Thank you for awesome videos and explanations. FYI, using Tabasco Sause, or Taco Bell "Fire Sause" works excellent at cleaning electrical cord prongs, old military trick that works awesome on copper or brass due to low pH.

[@MrDukaman]

Great video. Good detail. I'm a master electrician. And I really don't know much about solar. Is it possible to incorporate a small wind turbine for some charging voltage during night time. Just a thought I'm having. I'm learning about installing my own solar system. Also I'm a solo camper. And I love the national parks and boondocks g off grid. Thx for sharing. Nice work🇺🇸👍

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Good question! It's not really feasible to add wind charging for a remote application. Wind turbines need to be pretty big and tall to have much measurable effect, and storing that stuff during transit isn't something most people want to do.

[@RD27600]

Fantastic video!!! Shows me that I can do this. For a follow on video I'd love to see the addition of a generator and transfer switch like you'd have in a Class A.

[@brandontarr5418]

To disable the existing converter, rather than turning off the breaker and taping it, wouldn't it be better to remove it and install a filler plate?

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Not better, no. Just a different solution to the same problem

[@184conversion]

Mennn, your videos are always very helpful Thanks...👍👍👍

[@EXPLORISTlife]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)

[@wardg.5559]

What an awesome video. I'm just lost with my inverter/charger on my camper.. it's plugged into an outlet? I'm assuming to power to 110v outlets?

[@jtlong8383]

Unless I’ve missed it, it would be helpful to know what size megafuses you have installed onto the Lynx distributor for each component and why.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

The component kits we installed from our store shop.explorist.life come with the proper fuse size, so you don’t have to figure it out on your own.

[@PaulaPardowsky]

We would love to have our camper finished out like this. We aren't tech savy enough & neither is our dealer. The 0most they want to do to finish upgrading our solar install is to add a couple more AGM batteries in parallel. Any idea who we could contact in a rural area? You don't by chance travel?

[@dougCat]

Good morning. Wondering how you were able to put a 2 gauge wire into a 6 awg slot in the solar controller. I see you installed the ferrules first, but it seems to me there is more wire than the slot could accommodate.

[@EXPLORISTlife]

That charge controller has a 2 AWG wire terminal; not 6 AWG.

[@aliasimondi5054]

Wow! What a great video but the info is a little over my head. I’m new to RV’ing. I just bought a small Coleman (Dutchmen) travel trailer. I’m hoping to start with a small project as follows: I’d like to upgrade to a Battle Born house battery and add a Victron Orion 12-12/30 DC2DC charger with Anderson connectors for alternator charging as I drive, as you did here. Here’s my question…will adding the Orion cause complications with the existing OEM charging equipment? i.e. Can I add the Orion without removing and/or replacing the OEM AC/DC charger?

[@kevinherm3036]

We have a 2022 Keystone Raptor 352 that came with a 400 watt solar package. The dealer really didn't give me much information to go with and I don't find a lot online about it either. I would really just like to understand the Victron equipment that I have so that I have an understanding of what I can and can't do when considering an upgrade to this system. Just my luck, it will probably just be a tear it out and replace it system...isn't that what they generally add?

[@ForgeAheadwithMike]

I'm building a custom project with an existing enclosed trailer and planning to install a Multiplus II 24V with my 24V battery bank (using 24V since I will transfer the system later to my off-grid homestead). I want to keep all the existing 12V trailer lights (where each has the negative/ground wire directly attached to the metal frame). Would the grounding to the frame (from Lynx distributor and/or Multiplus) still be the same setup as you're showing in the vid? What's messing with my mind is having 12V and 24V grounded to same frame. I understand that the "grounds" from each little 12V LED trailer light are simply the negative connections to make them work - so basically the frame completes the "circuit" for the lights... Then attaching a 24V ground to the same frame is what's throwing my understanding off (I've heard of ground loops but don't fully understand them). I'm still learning but just want to make sure I'm creating a safe setup. :) Thanks for your videos! I'm learning a lot.

[@DanDeakin]

Where can I get the brush like bulkhead passthru’s you used for passing wires?

[@fergusmoloney]

Can you explain why you use such a large equipment ground on your Multiplus installations? I’d have thought it only needs to be able to carry the largest AC load?