Moving on to a new off-grid solar project - Part 1 - PowMr Hybrid Charger/Inverter 48V Battery Power

[@jenniferholloran8746]

Thank you for the review. It has been a couple years. Could you give a short update? There are many of us looking to invest in a system & I think long term use is probably the biggest question.

[@selah5872]

I’ve got 24v 3.3kw model. Mine beeps constantly too. It happens with changeover and no fault light. I read in manual you can turn it off

[@firssasa3009]

Is the inverter going will so far?

[@hackfreehvac]

Yup. Still inn use every single day 👍

[@firssasa3009]

Thanks

[@Damernerxx516]

How do we get rid of delays between switching power sources?

[@Arthurnetcraft]

Hi! Look, you need to rebuild you battery starategy. You AGM setup can works fine only if you install balancer. Or I can make some recommendation for good LFP cells setup for long life term.

[@thercmaster7112]

I purchased my Powmr back in January and it seems that no matter how much solar I connect to it or how much of a load I put on it, it would never exceed 800 watts coming in from the solar. I obviously want it to carry the loads and charge the batteries with the solar when the sun is shining. Do you have any issues like I’ve had? How high have you witnessed you mppt working? I had 1250 watts of solar and figured maybe that’s just all they would put out. Now I’ve connected 2400 watts to it and 800 is all it would do.

[@youkey9410]

I also got same issue, not sure from MPPT cannot find max point when we use with load or not , because when I turn off AC output, power from PV is increasing to charge battery. as i know the optimize of PV in put is ~360-380v

[@hackfreehvac]

Lately I've seen it delivering over 3KW into the batteries. 60 amps at 48V into the batteries. My panels are about 5KW worth but how much of that you get is depending on factors. Such as wear etc and these were used. Also best output is sun directly overhead when you get more energy density per square inch. As there is more angle in morning and evening you will have less and then far less energy density of the sun per square inch and therefore output a fraction of the cell rating at those times of day. So if you have 1200 watts of solar, for example, don't expect anything near that except when the sun is directly overhead.

[@youkey9410]

Yes when it full sunshine is ok but if less sunshine MPPT work not good it not try to low PV voltage get more power , so i install anthers MPPT charger to help charge

[@youkey9410]

I use to try : when less sunshine, and inverter on with load , solar produces not much power, but when i off inverter ( but still charge battery) MPPT will boot up power get more POWER from PV

[@lumpyren]

@@youkey9410 manual says do not exceed 100V on the PV input. Where are you getting that 360 to 380V for PV is safe to use?

[@brentadams3868]

I have 2 48V powmr inverters (spk5) connected to 3 - 48v 100ah Vatrer batteries. One inverter is showing a Fault code 5 Battery OverCurrent Hardware Protection while the other does not. The batteries are fine and not over charged... Do you know if there is a setting I need to change? Or do you think the inverter has an internal problem?

[@hackfreehvac]

Luckily I have yet to have a fault to troubleshoot with mine.

[@TheGrimshaw]

Hello, how is the powmr invert working out for you?

[@Hello123-c7p]

Is this inverter still running? Do you get any problem?

[@pmotorsports8276]

Larger battery cables unless you want to use the cables as fuses

[@hackfreehvac]

The battery cables I am using could handle 200 amps easy! They are massive!

[@osst12]

I'm playing to buy this one. And use without battery for a while. Can it grid tie solar panels and save energy bill? What do you think about it? If grid goes away without battery, can the solar run alone with the inverter?

[@pullbackbaby]

These can operate in parallel. Is that for high drain appliances like electric dryer etc? Would love to see an English video explaining the parallel functions ❤. Still thank you for the demonstration video and very sorry about your battery bank loss there😢

[@thedampestcrib6004]

Yes they do the only thing idk is if you can parallel 120v inveterate with 220v but if they are the same deff stackable

[@garymankus5718]

How do you get the error code 19 removed?

[@jamesturpin4426]

Was the compressor kicking out because it's a high frequency inverter?

[@hackfreehvac]

My home AC was not powered by the solar inverter. I just tied high voltage Solar direct to the variable frequency drive on a 3 phase compressor. It was just an experiment. I've been running my solar to this solar charger/inverter for the past few years now. The lead acid batteries at first for storage and then I got Lithium Ion. Been running a 115V heat pump to heat my domestic water for the past few years now. Runs mostly off of the solar/battery power. You'll see it in newer videos. I rewired and tried lots of different things along the way.

[@aaa000777]

The RJ45 connector on the bottom is an RS232 port. That's what killed your POE switch. It may have fried the UART in the inverter as well.

[@hackfreehvac]

It might have. There are two RJ45 jacks on this so maybe it will still have connectivity. Just bad luck all around. The next time I used that PC down there the sound system didn't work. That being the amplified speakers and subwoofer. A little cheap sucker. But that shouldn't be related to that. Just coincidence. Now my sound is running through the TV monitor there. And those always suck.

[@morawski64]

To add my two cents... I believe POE switches and the protocol in general will talk to the device before delivering power. I imagine once you find the right network port it should work fine on the POE switch anyways, it just won't ask for power. I'm certainly far from a network expert though. Good luck and cool stuff! Hopefully that has a mode to grid tie the solar once the battery is full if there's no demand

[@hackfreehvac]

@@morawski64 I dunno. Because in the case of my security cameras for instance, they wouldn't have power to communicate if they don't have the power from the POE in the first place. T10 and T100 ethernet only used 4 of the 8 wires anyway. So I figured they just used the other 4 for power when POE came to be. I've never looked into it tho so I'm guessing. Of course the newer gigabyte ethernet protocol does use all 8 so newer stuff may be set up for that

[@MarkusNemesis]

@@hackfreehvac Read the inverter manual.... Those RS ports have power pins on them. They're meant for powering and communicating with accessories like the inverter wifi controller, or an external screen, etc. 100% absolutely NOT ETHERNET!!!!

[@ivaylomanolov1455]

Hello, are you happy with your inverter? How long have you been using it and is it causing you problems?

[@hackfreehvac]

Just started using it a few weeks ago. It works. Can't yet say how reliable.

[@mitchellfay5725]

Any thing new to report on its reliability? I just purchased one. Thanks

[@hackfreehvac]

@@CW-xh8uw For the last few months it's been used to power my 115v 1 ton compressor to heat my water. I like it so far. I just need more batteries. I'm thinking of buying a 230v model and just using disconnect switches on the PV and Batteries to switch to the 230v unit just when I want to operate a 230v load like a larger mini split AC perhaps.

[@incognito_one876]

@@hackfreehvac How is it holding up now? I’m considering getting 1 but concerned about the longevity

[@hackfreehvac]

@@incognito_one876 It is still working. I tortured the snot out of it last year as I had two small rotary compressors running off of it. And if one was running and the 2nd one started and pulled long locked rotor amps, this would trip and then reset. Especially on hot restarts for the compressor.

[@Kangenpower7]

Congratulations on your home built heat pump water heater! I guess you repair and install HVAC? I have repaired HVAC since 1984. I plan on installing.a ductless heat pump, 12,000 Btu's, 120 volts. I plan to cut the line between the compressor and reversing valve, install a 10 foot long 1/4" tubing to a hot water tank, with a coil of 1/2: cold water tubing in the tank of water. Then the cold water going to my water heater can be warmed to about 95- 120F, so I can save a lot of energy. (no pump, just heat the 20 gallons of water in the tank to about 110 - 130F with the hot gas from my heat pump. As cold water enters the hot water heater, it will fist go through about 20' of 1/2" tubing inside the tank of hot water, and hopefully warm to 85 - 95F, depending on how quickly it goes through the tubing). While in the cooling mode, the heat is free, while in the heat pump mode, it will produce about 12,000 Btu's per KW used by my ductless heat pump. I plan on using the same 5,000 watt inverter / charger / MPPT controller that you installed. I bought 8 used 250 watt solar panels on craigslist for $85 each! Portland OR. My lowest typical temperature is about 30F overnight, with about 10 days every 4 years going as cold as 23F. I plan on installing the heat pump indoor coil in my bedroom, and not need to run the central heat pump for more than a couple of hours per day next winter. And save Lots of energy!

[@vega-nik]

Is it possible to use Utility to charge the batteries? Like in the case of using a generator when sun is not out. Also is that AC switch on the side DIY.. I don't have that on mine

[@hackfreehvac]

Yes it can charge on utility if you select that. The breaker on the left side is the 120v 40amp input.

[@vega-nik]

@@hackfreehvac I figured it out.. the 03 setting changes from UPS to APL made it work of the AC

[@hackfreehvac]

@@vega-nik Yeah the manual tkes a few stares to understand the modes. LOL It is versitile for sure.

[@nickelsen88]

Is it noisy, how much wattage can you draw before fans turn on, or are they on all the time?

[@hackfreehvac]

It's not too bad. I watch videos in the small mechanical room it is in. It isn't so bad when running the inverter. It gets the loudest when it is charging the batteries at about 3,000 watts

[@mevannugaliyadde6970]

Nice setup.. keen on getting my hands on this.. I assume its the POW-HVM 5.5k-48V model? You mentioned your max PV voltage is 330v i assume its Vmp. Have you checked the lowest MPPT voltage you can run during rainy or cloudy days in order to get the inverter running on PV (spec says 120-450VDC)..

[@hackfreehvac]

The model says LVM, but the ratings you gave are what it shows. 120 to 450VDC solar input. The nice thing is I can buy some more panels and add them in series to get more voltage, more wattage, yet stay within the amperage of my wiring leading to the panels. This thing is already charging my batteries at 7AM when there is some light but at a lower rate of course. It seems to be a good match for my setup.

[@LastExile1989]

Epic setup. I'm looking at the same inverter. Has it been working well for you?

[@hackfreehvac]

Been good so far. I have overloaded it to the point of trip several times and it has hung in there.

[@Siedziwmiedzi]

hello sir I have the same inverter and I have no idea how to set the batteries and I have lead acid and the letter P flashes on the display do you know what it means

[@hackfreehvac]

In the manual there should be settings to select LEAD ACID and then the voltages for charging etc. It has been a while since I initially used lead acid. Check the manual for what "P" might mean. Could be a setting or maybe you have a fault.

[@murambi2010]

how loud is the inverter when charging or using the batteries. Looking to get one

[@hackfreehvac]

The loudest I've heard the fans is when it is charging at a high rate in the mid of summer. It's enough to certainly hear if it is next to you but you can talk over it. I would maybe not install it next to a TV in a home but as long as it is in an unoccupied room it will be fine. It is in my hobby room and I hear it but the sound is sort of a part of the hobby room so I am fine with it. Most of the time it isn't any louder than a tower PC running

[@drawdeebrads491]

hi you have all settings parameters this inverter ?

[@sanitarcho]

Can i use that inverter without charging the batteries ? Actually i have other solar controller and the inverter will have only cable from batteries. I will disconnect on Low voltage or if there is a way i can send signal to the inverter from my solar controller to shut off the battery usage. My batteries are LifePo (8 pieces) for totally 24 volt system.

[@celoguer]

Is it possible to avoid the battery to discharge, except if you have a power outage? I mean, if the battery discharges every night and out have a power outage at night, you will be in the dark. It will be nice if you can power by solar during the day and use the grid at night, keeping the battery charged for emergency use.

[@hackfreehvac]

You can set up the hybrid charger/inverter for your needs. I am using it mostly to just run some stuff off-grid. And hopefully have some for short periods if the power goes out for a few hours. If you want the full battery capacity at all times for emergency use then you can set it to charge batteries on solar but run on utility power when there isn't enough direct solar energy. You could also adjust it for somewhere in the middle by making it just switch to utility power when the batteries reach a certain voltage when running them down at night. At this time of year my system is not running the batteries out by morning. So I do have some in reserve and it's not using any utility power right now.

[@pulesjet]

I have 20 Lifepo4 7 amp hour 12.4v batteries in the same form factor. Going to employ them some how.

[@MN7033]

Can you configure everything from mobile app instead of LCD panel? when connected to Wifi can you record history consumption AC/PV, Batteries, get charts, etc?

[@hackfreehvac]

I don't know if it does all that or not.

[@MN7033]

@@hackfreehvac what is possible to be done when connected to network or wifi? I checked the user guide but couldn't find anything about it

[@dylanutopia]

It's not a network port!! That port is RS232 Communications link between battery packs and the Mr power Unit.

[@hackfreehvac]

I figured that out shortly after I tried it. I believe I assumed it was as some other models I was reading about had it. Oops. The inverter still works tho 👍

[@allexeanmorris2670]

I just purchased one and it is not recognizing the solar panels. I went through the manual a few times, still not working. Can someone please assist?

[@trexkioarts]

Same is happening to me I have same issue.

[@Qua7100]

how u liking the PowMr after a while ? is it any good

[@hackfreehvac]

It is still working a few years after purchase. So far so good.

[@Qua7100]

ty@@hackfreehvac

[@thedampestcrib6004]

Got any info on cheap lithium batteries?

[@hackfreehvac]

Battery Hookup dot com Various deals come along. I liked these because they were simply the nice robust round cells, Panasonic I believe, and were like 72 in parallel. So I just slapped 14 in series and then another 14 in series. So they are not being charged to the max and that extends the life and you don't have balance issues. (less likely) As far as "cheap". Maybe compared to new. But the batteries were some of the more costly components of my system

[@thedampestcrib6004]

@@hackfreehvac I found 12v 100ah for 189 is about cheapest so far

[@thedampestcrib6004]

@@hackfreehvac did you run bms to all 16 cells?

[@hackfreehvac]

@@thedampestcrib6004 I have no BMS at all. I just check the voltage on each block (which is 72 cells in parallel) and they have all remained exactly the same. Interestingly if you take apart a DeWalt battery pack, they communicate to the drill to shut off on temp etc, but don't load balance. They are not charging the individual cells to absolute max and evidently they stay pretty even if you avoid the higher voltages. Which is what I do. I have 14 in series instead of 13 to make 48V nominal. I stop charging just under 57 volts. Which is 4.0V per cell max rather than 4.2

[@thedampestcrib6004]

@hackfreehvac ok that's what I planned because the hybrid setup has really good battery monitoring I might get 1 server rack for now then wait on good auction price

[@migmigjohnson6083]

Trying to decide between a 24V Growatt hybrid or this one @ 24V, but the Growatt is nearly twice the price. Anyone know if there's a catch with this type of hybrid device?

[@Raimund0ns2023]

my powmr 3kw 24v hybrid will do 1 year of use and works normally

[@BeeneEnergy]

The Powmr has less features. Main one being you can't parallel for more capacity. Also monitoring options are better with Growatt, can use things like solar-assistant that doesn't work with PowMr. functionally they seem to be the same though.

[@maxi_d9167]

Hello, does anyone know how to establish communication between Pylontech batteries and the POWMR 5600? When I go to pyl in powmr it doesn't work

[@hackfreehvac]

I'm not familiar with such batteries. You may want to try a forum online for DIY Solar for that information

[@stevanbecarevic768]

Hello question for you, I Live in Europe where input is 220v ac 50hz. I brought an hvac gas furnace that works on 110v 60hz. Would this this kind of hybrid solar charger be able to power it using just grid power? For example buy one with 220v ac input and put out 110v. I don’t think it goes over 3000 watts

[@hackfreehvac]

The furnace will be a bit less than 3000 watts. More like 1000 max. But I don't know if you will find a hybrid solar inverter that is 220 utility input and 110v inverter out.. If the furnace has a ECM motor it might just require a few changes of the motor plug to run on 220 and then change your transformer to a 208/230 one for the 24V control stuff. You'd be better off with a mini split if you haven't installed anything yet unless you already have the central air and want to keep it.

[@jermainwhyte6894]

I just hook up 1 of those inverter and all my appliances are humming. Denon receiver, outlaw amp, emotiva amp, all of them humming from the transformer even when they are turned off. Everything grounded and wired as suggested. Any clue what’s happening? Thanks

[@Raimund0ns2023]

maybe 50/60hz frequency

[@jermainwhyte6894]

@@Raimund0ns2023 no that’s not it I changed it and it didn’t make a difference

[@hackfreehvac]

I haven't tried to run audio electronics on it yet. But it is likely a ground loop or something. The signal coming out of this thing looked great.

[@jermainwhyte6894]

@@hackfreehvac that inverter was not pure sine wave that was the issue I sent it back. Thanks

[@hackfreehvac]

@@jermainwhyte6894 Actually I hooked up an oscilloscope to it and it was.

[@rOSScOGITANS]

Is your powmr inverter noisy? the fans start immediatly or only after e big charge?

[@hackfreehvac]

I only hear the fans when it gets some good sun to charge or when it's operating the inverter. You have to stand at the unit to really hear them

[@manuelg9367]

Interested in this brand. Is this unit still working for you?

[@hackfreehvac]

Yes. Powers a small heat pump to heat my water heater every day. Powered off solar, charging batteries, and the inverter

[@unitedelectrichouston4135]

I have the same exact set up and my unit does not recognize my solar panels. Any tips?

[@nicoles3897]

I have the same problem with the 12v version. See volts from solar array (and they re within range) no amps or watts. Did you solve your problem?

[@Kangenpower7]

@@nicoles3897 It depends on the amperage rating of your panels, and the amp rating of your inverter / charger. With the 12 volt system, care must be used to not exceed the overall watt rating of your MPPT controller built into the inverter system. If you exceeded 1,200 watts, you might have melted something inside the MPPT controller about 1 hour after sunrise! You might need several of the 60 amp charge controllers to handle your solar power for the lower voltage battery system. That is why I went with a 48 volt system. At 48 volts, the 60 amp charge controller can handle about 3,000 watts easy, but I plan on limiting mine to 2,000 watts so it will not overheat. If I ever install more panels, I will install a second 60 amp MPPT controller from Amazon for about $100. I would suggest that you use the inverter for making power, and run all of your solar power through another new MPPT controller or two controllers, depending on your panel size, wattage, amps. ect. Each string of panels must be the same voltage and amperage per panel for it to work right. If you have 2 size panels, and one is rated at 9 amps, the smaller one at say 6 amps, you might have melted something inside the 6 amp panel, so check it for a problem. It will also limit the total wattage because the smaller panel can not pass 8 amps through it, thus limit all of the panels to only 6 amps.

[@jessicasargent3040]

I have this inverter and having the same issue. I had 4 220 panels, didn't register them at all so I purchased two more of the same size. Still doesn't register. Did you ever figure this out?

[@shawnshackleford7340]

I have the 3.5 watt - 24v PowMr . Code 10 is on / Out put power derating . Input 113V (10) output 113V is on the screen. I do have 6 panels but only 930 watts. What do you this is the problem.

[@hackfreehvac]

I'm not at home where my manual is at. Do you have the code 10 description from the manual? BTW, haven't seen that Shackleford name in decades. Used to know a Sheri (sp?) Shackleford in youth group like 30+ yes ago

[@TubolMotoadventures]

im confused with the zec mode of this inverter it bypassed and use grid as source even if I have battery ar night time.

[@hackfreehvac]

I am not familiar with what ZEC stands for. But in the settings you can select what source it can use etc. Mine only goes to utility if it runs out of battery or trips. And the utility is only used for bypass. Batteries only charge from solar.

[@TubolMotoadventures]

@@hackfreehvac the inverter is hybrid so it can function as grid tie mode then you'll need the ZEC mode. fir now I'm using the SBU mode to power the load with pv+ battery then utility as last option

[@peterkirke5172]

fire fire fire run

[@chrisjones6351]

Those cables connecting to the battery look a bit thin, is that ok? And is it safe to leave the batteries outside like that? I new to all this, want to be sure.

[@hackfreehvac]

The main cables from the inverter to the outdoor enclosure are massive. But from the rails in the enclosure I have smaller wire to each section of batteries. If you look closer you'll see that there are 3 or 4 parallel connections to each section of batteries. Those batteries are only temporary. Still figuring out what type of lithium or other higher density batteries I will go with. My ground has some that we may be able to work wjth.

[@chrisjones6351]

@@hackfreehvac Yeah I can see now, difficult to see from the video. Batteries are the big issue for me, need to setup a system where it's safe, efficient and financially viable.

[@usafshorts]

Hello, i am sorry for being so ignorant but I want to buy the PowMr Solar Inverter 5000W Off Grid 48V , I wonder how many solar panels do I need to charge 4 12 v 100 batteries? thank you

[@hackfreehvac]

It depends on the combination. This hybrid charger/inverter is meant for higher voltage solar input so you string together enough in series to get somewhere in range. Mine is around 33 volts DC solar input. But it has a pretty wide range. Check the manufacture website. For the batteries this one is a 48V setup and simple lead acid that are 12V you put 4 in series for 48V. Then parallel more groups of 4 in series to get more capacity. I had a bunch of these lead acid as shown because I obtained them for free. I now use Lithium. Which have way more storage capacity and in a overall smaller size.

[@Kangenpower7]

I bought 8 each 250 watt used solar panels on Craigslist for $85 each in Portland OR. I plan on running a 1 KW ductless split heat pump and my refrigerator on this unit. I might also charge my 7.5 KW hybrid car battery. For batteries, make sure you can add water to them, or they will not last more than a couple of years. I plan on getting either 6 each 8 volt batteries or 8 each 6 volt golf cart batteries, they sell them at Costco. Each battery is about 1 KW of storage. I will check prices, then make a decision on the size of battery to use. 62 pounds Per battery! If I get 6, then I can run my heat pump for about 4 hours after sunset, before switching it over to grid power. That works great with my time of day power rate program, where I pay $0.32 per KW between 5 pm and 9 pm, but much less the other hours of the day. Overnight power is only $0.07 per KW. The 12 volt battery is lighter weight, and about 1 KW per battery, but will work OK. You might need to run two strings of 12 volt batteries so you can still use some power after sunset. The advantage is to the 6 volt or 8 volt batteries, so no second string of batteries. No loss between the higher voltage string of batteries to the lower voltage string of batteries. Basically the number of panels and wattage of those panels relates more to the load you expect them to power. So like filling a gas tank, you will need say 1 KW to fill your battery the next day, then a 250 watt panel will be fine. My plan is to use about 1 KW per hour X 10 hours of run time each day, so I need to have a 2 KW solar system to fill my battery pack, (about 4 KW into the battery each day) and will consume most of the power during the daylight hours, so it will never go into the battery pack. On days I do not need the HVAC, I can charge my hybrid car battery, or run my refrigerator, or other loads in my house. I will install a generator power load center, so I can change up to 10 circuits from grid power to the "Generator" - inverter power at any time I want to, very easy. Size the solar panels for their rated output X 5 hours per day, and you will be happy with the results. If you take the rated output X 6 hours, you will always wonder why your battery is not charging the expected wattage each day. If I ever decide to install additional solar panels, I will connect them to another charge controller. The built in charge controller can handle about 3 KW easy, but will start to get warm if you hook up more panels. AND they limit is only 80 amps into the battery, even if you connect 10 KW of solar panels to your charge controller, it will only charge at about 3 KW - 3.3 KW. You can get a 60 amp MPPT PowMr charge controller on Amazon for about $100.

[@hzaahzaa5784]

Hi ist this a on grid inverter can i plug on the home grid thanks haydar

[@hackfreehvac]

No. This is a stand alone off-grid charger/inverter.

[@johan-zs8nc]

inverter still running ok ?

[@hackfreehvac]

Yup 👍

[@thedampestcrib6004]

I'm guessing it's just not displaying right showed it pv watts at 290 mines similar I'm hoping that's just wrong

[@hackfreehvac]

I've had over 3000 watts from solar during peak of day once I went to Li Ion batteries to charge from solar.

[@thedampestcrib6004]

@hackfreehvac I was only getting 300 was cloudy but have 10 240 watt panels no load just chargeing still seems low

[@nikdano]

How long lasting your battery life?

[@hackfreehvac]

Not too lonmg. I sawpped this out for Lithium. 20KWH

[@cowboymcq6711]

I just want to see a video off the install of this powmr

[@hackfreehvac]

I didn't record that. But it's really just hanging it on the wall and connecting battery to the battery terminals, solar power to the solar PV terminals and AC line input to the ac line terminals. Then the AC inverter out

[@jermainwhyte6894]

I have same inverter all my appliances humming. Any idea what’s going on? Thanks

[@magfpk369]

@@hackfreehvac 😎

[@hackfreehvac]

@@jermainwhyte6894 No. But I haven't used mine for the home appliances yet other than my heat pump that heats my water. It runs that every day just fine. I did see that it was a pure sine wave so you should be good unless it is a ground loop issue etc

[@user-dr2pg8fk2i]

Did you get those batteries for free?

[@stevedalgardno459]

PowMr 5500W Solar Inverter 48V DC to 220V-230V AC, 5.5KW Pure Sine Wave Inverter with 80A MPPT Charge Controller, for 48V Lead-Acid and Lithium Battery, Can be Parallel up to Nine inverters

[@hackfreehvac]

The model I have is 120v and does not parallel.

[@pullbackbaby]

I need to see a video on how the 220v models parallel. I truly with there was a 110v one that paralleled. I need higher amps on a single line.

[@captainobvious9188]

Was the inverter struggling to start the compressor? In my experience unless it is a modern inverter compressor you have to put a soft start on AC compressors for high frequency inverters.

[@hackfreehvac]

Nope. Doesn't struggle at all And last night I had a scope on it and it didn't affect the output at all when that compressor started. This is a 5KW inverter. Which is more than I need for that compressor by quite a bit. People use start assist when the inverter is just enough in capacity but struggles to start.

[@captainobvious9188]

@@hackfreehvac I have a old Bryant 5 ton that I've replaced the run capacitor, and put a micro-air easystart 368 on, and now my old 12kw low-frequency inverter can start it, but not my new 8kw high-frequency. I've ran into a lot of people that have had the same issues though with old AC compressors. I just need to replace it anyways.

[@hackfreehvac]

@@captainobvious9188 piston compressors struggle to restart against pressure. Scrolls actually draw more current but start quicker. This little compressor is a rotary. Like a piston they don't like to restart right after shutting down. The problem here was my microprocessor temp control wigging out for some reason. I replaced it with a different temp control and it's been good for 2 days now.

[@pulesjet]

Do a Capacity test on them. You can only take them down to 50% of capacity.

[@hackfreehvac]

I just take them down to when the inverter cuts them out. It is automatic. Which was 44 Volts. Default is 46 volts so I may change it back to default when I test again.

[@ninja5672]

@@hackfreehvac 44v is about 0% State of Charge. 46v is about 20% SoC. If you want several years of use, I wouldn't go below 48.8v

[@hackfreehvac]

@@ninja5672 That would be robbing me of some of the usable capacity. Not worth it. Also, these are lead acid batteries and I believe 44v for 4 in series was within spec.. that is 11VDC each Also, these were free USED batteries I brought home for my experiments. I don't plan on them lasting too long. Once I replace them for some lithium cells I'll likely add these to my UPS I have and they won't be cycled but will just be emergency backup

[@kevsterman4053]

@@hackfreehvac How are those batteries holding up? I can get about 80 - 7AH batteries for $3 each. They were used in rack mount ups in units of 8. Are these worth using? Do you think I can squeeze a year or two out of them?

[@luisdavidgarciasocon2636]

I have the same inverter and I have been testing it, I left it charging with a 48v 150ah gel battery bank but it never reaches 100% but the voltages are maintained example: with 50v it shows me that I have barely 25%, so I wonder How can I really see if my batteries are well charged? The power of my panels is 2kw, what has been your experience with the charge indicator?

[@redneckbryon]

Luckily, when and if you change out your old batteries to lithium, you can scrap the old ones out and make some of your money back. Kids without Internet oh no, they will need to talk.

[@hackfreehvac]

The Sealed batteries that are still good (Got about 50 of them or so plus the others already in use elsewhere) I will add to my other UPS devices. I still have the 2200W Commercial server rack UPS. It takes 10 batteries in series to operate. And you then parallel other series of 10 for more capacity. I think I'm going to relocate that thing to my upstairs area where my cable modem, main router and Plex server are. Then maybe run a romex from that area to an outlet in my master bedroom for an emergency power outlet in there.

[@chrisjones6351]

I'm buying this, a lot of Chinese products are garbage. I've seen some good reviews about this and it's the only hybrid inverter that will support a 100v system with English instructions in Japan. I love your setup mate, your battery banks massive, must of cost a fortune!?

[@hackfreehvac]

The batteries are used and I got them free from a job site when they replaced them in a computer server room and the battery tech was more than happy for me to load up the 500 lbs of batteries and haul them away. I have more of them that I have connected to various UPS devices.

[@chrisjones6351]

​@@hackfreehvac To get cheap batteries is the biggest cost and being able to get them free is great! I really want to bring my cost down, but want to be safe as well. I live in Japan and bought PowMR inverter as it is settable to 100vac and easier for a newbie like myself to setup. It's Chinese which worries me. My Father is an electrical engineer so if I get into any difficulties I can always zoom call him.

[@НикКин-д6ы]

I don’t even know what will last longer here - lead batteries or a POWMR "brand" inverter, which is assembled on the cheapest components of all Voltronic clones. Keep it away from home, mine caught fire a couple of weeks ago.

[@hackfreehvac]

Let's hope that yours was a lemon or just beat up from transit etc. The ratings and feedback was not too bad for this But I don't plan on running this near its rated capacity either.

[@НикКин-д6ы]

@@hackfreehvac My load was only 600 watts at a nominal value of 5000, without solar panels. I just used it as an UPS for a router, smart home, video surveillance and LED lighting. Now the inverter has been dismantled, ugly soldering, some legs on the parts are not soldered at all, some of the screws connecting to the ground are missing. I thank God that I was at home when he smoked. No more cheap Chinese crap!

[@goocherrific]

That's not an ethernet port. It's a serial connection rs485. It's for communication but not ethernet j45

[@kimmogensen5390]

melts a bunch of lead acid batteries , now want to play with litium ,,the neighbors better hope it is not liion ,kaboom wuush

[@808pathfinder]

Don't cheap out on batteries like those ones, to many small batteries will cause premature failures buy 12v 100a lithium and keep them all the same to avoid problems

[@808pathfinder]

If you do what he did, you need to test all the batteries capacity and only use the ones that pass fist. 2nd then fully charge every battery to full. 3rd is what people leave out is to BALANCE THEM, to do that you need to put the battery pack all in one row and wire all the + all together and the - all together to make 1 big 12v after a day of sitting then you can build your 48v bank, make sure the wires & battery connectors can handle the amps coming in or out

[@hackfreehvac]

These batteries WERE FREE. Also, I bought 20KWH of Lithium Ion batteries to replace these over a year ago. This video is from about 4 years ago when I got the lead acid batteries from a server room UPS change out and briefly used them on the charger/inverter when I bought that (this video). The Lithium batteries were connected in parallel for DAYS before I strung them in series and brought to charge by an external charger first.

[@willalthen8667]

Old school cfl bulb had mercury and other toxic materials.

[@pullbackbaby]

My friend used to merge lead and mercury together in the 70s in the form of a nail. They would melt in his hand! Great party favor. Lots of great tricks are long forgotten.🎉

[@willalthen8667]

Wow bro

[@CobraR99]

It was actuallly charging youre battery’s from grid power not sun

[@hackfreehvac]

Where did you see that? This is programmed to ONLY charge batteries off of solar. But i might have filmed some of this clips before I set that up a year ago now or whatever it has been. It has only charged on the sun since I set it up. However, during low sun the inverter will pull off of solar and batteries. The ONLY time grid power comes into play is when the batteries drop below the low setpoint and it transfers over. Which hasn't happened in months for this time of year and since the output is mostly only powering a water heater heat pump/hybrid AC and some lights and a mini fridge. If you are referring to what is shown on the screen say at 9:19 in the video, the transfer switch is still switch to running the LOAD off of grid power but you can see the batteries are only charging by solar.

[@CobraR99]

@@hackfreehvacwhen you were explaining in the video that it’s charging it was showing that it’s drawing from the grid

[@CobraR99]

@@hackfreehvac are those batteries still holding up ?

[@CobraR99]

My bad I’m wrong I just saw it actually just bypassed the battery

[@hackfreehvac]

@@CobraR99 Yup. And once bypassed the batteries have to achieve the voltage you set before it transfers back to running the inverter off of the batteries. So there is a differential. At that point it looked like 51 volts in the battery which is more than enough to tun the inverter. That is like well into nominal. I think I have cut out at like 46 or 47 and it charges up to maybe 56. I am running 14S so they are not completely filling the batteries and I get away from needing a balancer. SO far all batteries have stayed in perfect balance. I check them from time to time.

[@s.kammerer1206]

Chernobyl of the battery world!

[@hackfreehvac]

It certainly was! I never did get to see if they let the smoke out or what!

[@willalthen8667]

They did not last long