#MT24

So - I decided sell all my woodturning gear and dedicate my time to engineering!
Good news is I've just bought a new Sieg SC4 lathe.
As my first mini activity on this lathe I decided to have a go at thread cutting.
I've never tried thread cutting before, but it worked out pretty well.
Many thanks to Bob Ackert for producing a really excellent Supplement to the Sieg SC4 Instruction Manual.
This document really helped me try out thread cutting for the very first time.
I am a novice when it comes to engineering, but I hope my videos will inspire others to give it a go.
I really like challenges and I think it is a great way to learn and keep the old brain active.
If you can offer me any help or advice, please leave a comment.
If you would like to keep informed of my new videos, please subscribe.
If you find my videos of value you could always help me continue making them by making a small donation at:
paypal.me/AndrewWhale
Backing track credits......
Music: (intro) Water Lily by the 126ers - KZbin Audio Library
WARNING: Metal turning can be dangerous! I am not sure whether the methods I use are established ones, and I do not recommend them.
Please do not copy me without doing your own risk assessments!
You are responsible for your safety - not me!

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Thank you for such an inspirational video. Great start with your new Lathe. Congratulations.

[@TadTadd]

Glad to see another guy enjoying the SC4. I love it, as it’s affordable, but still has power cross feed. Some day you can treat yourself to a DRO-fiddly to install, but you’ll never look back. I hate messing with the gears, so I leave them on the good “fast feed” setup from the book and use threading dies for my threading work.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Tad, yeah I'm very happy with the SC4. Like you, I use dies if possible and avoid messing around with gears. I've since attached some long dial gauges to the carriage and cross slide. They work a treat. Easy to make some brackets and install. I used the existing tapped holes for the fixed steady to hold the compound bracket, so no drilling of holes needed. Low cost solution too 😃 Cheers Andrew

[@stevemedlock6271]

Superb professional video - Thank you!

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Steve. It was a good bit of fun! Cheers Andrew

[@ET-cj8jo]

Many thanks for your video. Just about to buy an SC4 equivalent in Japan and as there is a dearth of information on that model I appreciate your careful instructions. Brought up in Middlesex but family originally from Preston and now in Yorkshire, so simply love listening to you !

[@gordonturner8544]

very helpful thank you

[@sfbmcouk]

Congrats on the new lathe, another good vid, bring on the next one!

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks James!

[@JohnClothier]

Wow that looks complex! I'm sure you will grasp it in no time. Love thje new lathe, looks a beast!

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks John - I think it will take a while for me to get used to it. Cheers Andrew

[@colinoreilly5438]

brilliant video Andrew i learnt a lot. really well explained. more videos please, colin

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Colin. I learnt a lot too. Really enjoyable when I got a good result first time round. Cheers Andrew

[@robertoswalt319]

Congratulations on the new lathe. I remember the first few times I did it and how nervous I was. Well done.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Robert. Yes it was a bit scary, especially on a new lathe. Good fun though at the same time. Cheers Andrew

[@martynduncumb1020]

Congratulations, Andrew, on moving up to your SC4. Certainly looks a more powerful beast offering you more scope. The top slide and cross slide look as though they have solved some of the problems associated with the mini lathe. Look forward to your new projects. Martyn

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Martyn - it does feel like a significant step up from the mini lathe - very solid and powerful. I still like the SC3 though. Cheers Andrew

[@chrisarmstrong8198]

That STOP button works well. The chuck stops turning instantly ! It must have a mechanical brake or use some type of electronic braking on the motor.

[@dickymintnt700]

Awesome. I’m off for an SC 4 :).

[@stephentayler1414]

I like the way you don't have to strip this machine down to get at the belt like you do on the smaller lathes. I made an expanding mandrel for my machine and made a hand crank which attaches to the spindle. I would use that when screw-cutting on a mini lathe myself as I think it would be easier. Steve Jordan's earlier videos showed how to do this. A very effective system also handy for tapping and die cutting. But I admit I haven't yet attempted screw-cutting on a lathe, well not a mini lathe anyway :) Nice video

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Stephen - thanks for the info. I recall seeing Steve Jordan's vid of the hand crank a while back. A good way to take some stress out of using power feed. Maybe something I will visit later. Thanks for reminding me. Cheers mate. Andrew

[@TheMiniMachineShop]

I hear you mention RPM a number of times. When cutting threads the gears link the chuck rotation to the feed rate. So for every revolution of the chuck the carriage advances X. So the faster or slower the chuck rotates the faster or slower the carriage moves X. 1 RPM will give the same thread pitch as 1,000 RPM. RPM doesn't matter here. BTW you did way better than I did my first try!! Dave

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks for the advice Dave. Much appreciated. Take care. Andrew

[@bobvines00]

Andrew, I've always read that the space between meshing gears ought to be the thickness of a piece of writing paper. I've watched folks do that by getting it close by eye and running a strip of paper between the gears while turning them by hand. Once the paper is between the meshing teeth, tighten the adjustment and you're set. I haven't done any threading on my lathe*, so I haven't had to change any gears to have any personal experience of using the paper strip technique to see if that quietens the gear noise. "Proper" gear meshing lessens gear noise and also wear on the gears. * My lathe is an 11-inch South Bend that was made in 1911, but I don't have much experience with it yet!

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Bob. Thanks for the advice. I must try that. Have fun with your South Bend! Cheers Andrew

[@steventhompson3507]

That looks like great fun and well done. I'm currently getting ready to sell my myford and cabinet because I want something more modern and to be honest the Sc4 is the lathe I keep coming back to in particular because the lathe I had before the myford was a little clarke cl300m and it was wonderfull to use, the size of my project components just got to big for it or the steadies. That cross slide auto feed has me hooked.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Steven - I think that the SC4 is a pretty good lathe. The only issue I have with these types of lathe is having to mess around with change gears for thread cutting - which doesn't encourage me to experiment more. If money and space allows, I might purchase a second lathe at some stage - one with a gearbox that allows easy gear ratio changes. Wishful thinking perhaps! Cheers Andrew

[@machiningbasics1729]

These are a lovely lathe ! Shame there so expensive. Nice video

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks - it does really feel like a step up - very solid feel. Cheers Andrew

[@drpipe]

Well done great work. Haven't tried cutting threads ..like many I find its just quicker to use a die. But did buy a long length of 3/4 Ali at the weekend so maybe another day. I'm working on a secure stand for the same mill as yours..let you know if it stops the head from moving under load. All the best mate.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Berkeley - I am the same, and pretty much used a die most of the time. I think where thread cutting on the lathe comes into it's own is when you need to cut large diameter threads and a die is not viable. I did this video as a test, so that when I need to cut a large diameter thread in anger I will have a reasonable idea as to how to go about it. It was also fun playing with my new lathe too! Cheers Andrew

[@backyardmechanic921]

It's good to do something new on the lathe and it works out ok. If you don't want to do it under power you can make a mandrel handle and turn by hand. Enjoy your new lathe, it's a very rewarding hobby, all the best my friend.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks for the info. So could I have successfully turned at the slowest speed of 100 rpm and what depth of cut would you recommend? Cheers Andrew

[@backyardmechanic921]

I tend to go as slow as possible when thread cutting. I have a Myford super 7 about as old as I am 70 years old. It still gets the job done, I prefer it to electronic control. I find you have more control if you cut threads at a slow speed. Five to ten thou is plenty, if you go deeper it tends to tear the thread. Before cutting set the lathe going so you know it's not going to run into anything and you can stop it in the right place. Hope you find what I wrote useful and happy threading.

[@learningturningmetal]

Brilliant. I really appreciate the advice. Next time I will try 100 rpm and 5thou at a time. And you can't beat good old British engineering! Take care. Andrew

[@dalesmith8167]

Nice video which I enjoyed watching. A word of advice if I may. Get a set of thread pitch gauges to check the pitch you are cutting after the first pass of the tool. If you get the gearing assembled wrong it could be very frustrating to cut the wrong pitch on a nearly finished part.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Dale. Good idea. I thought about getting one in the past but never got round to it. Now added to my list! Cheers Andrew

[@adaml52]

Hi Andrew, Greetings from Bradford. The sc4 lathe is a good machine, I've had mine for 9 years now. Bought from Axminister tools just under £900. The gear noise can be reduced with careful meshing of the gears and motor cycle chain lube I tried several different quick change tool posts, I've settled for a Dickson type from Rgd tools in the myford section. For threading I use Joe pie method, run the carriage towards the tail stock and invert your tool. I've found the 10mm Arc carbide ccmt insert tooling works great. The ag60 style tooling carbide inserts from eBay work good for threading, size 11 for upto 1.5mm pitch and size 16 for upto 3mm. pitch. The downside is it doesn't have a quick change gearbox and the tailstock can move out of alignment when drilling. The saddle lock cap screw, I changed for a M5 hex head bolt and spacer as the caphead fills with chips. In the UK weather I use ISO 68 way oil from C bennis on eBay, no more flash rusting. Changed all the gib screws and nuts for stainless steel and added a remote digital readout from Arceurotrade to the z axis. Adam

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Adam. Many thanks for the tips. I will do some research/investigation. Cheers Andrew

[@adaml52]

@@learningturningmetal Thanks for the reply. One last thing I'll mention. If you need parts for the lathe that are not available from the UK. The little machine shop offers the full range of spares. Listed as the 8.5" lathe which is a Sieg C4. The compound angle scale wore off on mine (screen printed, oil softens the print). The downside you'll need to order a few bits to make the order shipping cost worth it. Tip check how flat the compound face is where the quick change tool post sits, mine was slightly concave. It would cause the qctp to move when cutting a part. ATB Adam

[@TheDieselmb]

very well done andrew i would practice with some larger diam materials like at least 1/2 in . the smaller dia tends to flex when threading with no tailstock . best of luck with the new lathe PETE from NEW YORK🔩

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Pete. Many thanks for the suggestion. I will give it a try! Thanks again. Andrew

[@thepisteoffice331]

Boys and toys! Nice purchase. Can't see why you need the compound slide setting at an angle, I keep mine parallel to the bed and just have the thread cutting tool at 90 degrees to the material.

[@learningturningmetal]

Ha ha, what fun. Not sure why setting the compound at 29 ish degrees is needed. I just followed the instructions and it seemed to work ok. Cheers mate. Andrew

[@terumiukueda3405]

Hi Andrew. I enjoy your videos and how the models are built. I have now got small lathe myself so watching your videos helped me a lot. How ever there is one question no one seems to answer, watching you cut threads for the first time made it simpler for me, but the question is. Do you have to return to the original gearing before carrying on normal turning. Thanks for videos Chris

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Chris. Thanks for the feedback. I would recommend going back to the original gear ratios for normal cutting operations, otherwise the halfnut feed speed will be different. If you don't use powerfeed then I guess it isn't a problem. Then again I am definitely no expert. Cheers Andrew

[@terumiukueda3405]

@@learningturningmetal Thanks will open up and check what I am running on and make note so I know how to reset

[@jiggseystrasser]

Nice move ,I mean with the purchase of the new lathe Andrew. Are you going to add the carriage lock to the new lathe ? Great to see your still active in the metal arts Sir.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Greg. I did do some investigation into a carriage lock option but I couldn't find much info. Someone suggested that an existing cap head screw on the carriage acted as a carriage lock, but it wasn't clear to me. The manual doesn't mention a carriage lock, but then the manual is extremely poor. I will continue to research options. All the best. Andrew

[@modelsteamers671]

Congrats on the new toy Andrew, it looks like you have caught the model engineering bug already :-) Your thread turning seemed to work out nicely, I did raise an eyebrow when you said you intended to cut at 2000rpm tho ;-)

[@learningturningmetal]

Ha ha Pete. My total lack of knowledge and experience was a little exposed. We need to catch up with a few 🍺 🍺 sometime. Cheers! Andrew

[@modelsteamers671]

Yea, I'd look forward to a few pints of the dark stuff. That tiny boiler I bought is looking promising :-)

[@rigormortis1157]

Congratulations with new lathe! Must be way more accurate and easier to opperate than the sc3 (but too heavy for me, I need to be able to carry mine)! I am thinking of a nice little project that might be of interrest to you: As a cabinetmaker, I always had a little hammer with me. Great for adjusting stuff, like blades on wooden planes, alligning pieces, and so on. I wonder if I it would be possible to make a hammer-head? And what kind of steel to use? If you google Lie Nielsen Hammer, you can see what type of hammer I´m thinking of (but a bit shorter). It would be great work, including lathe and milling, and a very useful piece of result. So my question is, maybe you can look into it and maybe make us a video :) Cheers Even

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Evan. Thanks for the suggestion. The Lie Nielsen hammer looks really neat but I don't think I would get much use out of it. For info, I've found the sc3 very accurate. The sc4 will give me extra capacity. All the best. Andrew

[@1shootist477]

Hello Sir, I've very much enjoyed watching some of your videos this morning so I have now subscribed. Could I ask you a question about the sieg sc4. I know you plan on keeping the smaller sc3 but if you didn't have it do you feel you could do everything you've done on it (sc3) on the sc4 ? All the smaller parts that were required for the engine project you recently completed ? I really like the stepped up features and rigidity offered on the sc4 ( I have now a micromark 7x16 that will soon need some major repairs and I'm thinking instead of repairing it upgrading to the sc4) I don't do any large turning, everything I turn and make can be done on a sieg sc3 mini lathe..but one never knows when the need may arise for a longer bed . There are many, many videos on youtube concerning the sieg sc3 but I've only found a few on the sc4. Any insight you could offer will be greatly appreciated.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi. Thanks for the feedback. My garage has been out of action for several weeks due to some building works overflowing into it. As such my machining has come to a stop. However, so far, I don't envisage the sc4 not being capable of carrying out any task that the sc3 can do. Cheers Andrew

[@nickking8317]

Just so you are aware the two levers are for your power feed x and y axis the one on the front of the saddle or apron is for threading which is your half but the one on the side controls feed for longitudinal and cross feed. Hope this helps. I am looking at buying an sc4 to replace my al 250 g can the sc4 do imperial threads as well and if so was the gearing in the box or is it all seperate like the c2?

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Nick. Mine came with a variety of gears to enable a range of imperial threads to be cut. Cheers Andrew

[@rjk930]

Hi Andrew... hope you don't mind another SC4 question. First off...thanks for your comments on the noise level. I am seriously getting this lathe from LittleMachineShop here in the USA. My question is regarding the "surface mounted" start/stop switches. My experience with these types is they are sometimes difficult to activate. Do these switches have a definite tactful feel and easy to push? I ask as my concern regards making threads and as the cutter approaches the chuck, how responsive is the stop button? Thanks for your input and best regards, Bob

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Bob. I don't find the buttons a problem at all - very responsive I would say. Having said that I don't cut that many threads. If you want, you could email me at [e-mail] and I could upload you a video of me pressing the stop button to see what you think. All the best. Andrew

[@TadTadd]

These buttons appear to be membrane switches, but they are not. There is a somewhat more solid button on the circuit board with a stem that is pressed, like a keyboard key. That said, I would prefer real industrial buttons, but this is a minor complaint. I love the SC4...I have the LMS variant.

[@rjk930]

How much noisier is the SC4 compaired to the SC3?

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi. The sc3 is very quiet compared to the sc4. I soon got used to it though. I use it in a workshop joined to the house and my wife doesn't hear it. However if used in a room joined onto a neighbours property I think it could be a problem. Hope that helps. Cheers Andrew

[@barryfields2964]

Does your lathe not have a threading dial?

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Barry - unfortunately not. It has a swarf cover along the length of the gear which prevents a thread dial from being installed. Cheers Andrew

[@stevebosun7410]

Hello Andrew, stupid question (maybe). Why 291/2 degrees?

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Steve. Good question. I did a bit of checking on the internet and found the following explanation. Hope it helps. Cheers. Andrew If the compound rest was set a "0", the tool would cut equally on both sides. Moving the compound rest toward the 30 degree withness mark, would remove progressively less material on the right side. At 30 degrees the right side of the tool would slide past the thread. Any angle greater than 30 degrees, the right side of the tool would move away from the right side of the thread with each infeed. Therefore, at 29.5 degrees the right side to the tool would shave off a tad from the right side of the thread rather than clear the thread.

[@TadTadd]

Anything less than 30 works, so getting it close to 30 is just fine, without need for splitting hairs. Here is Joe Pi’s detailed video with diagrams and such explaining this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hp-rkKKbhLqjqZY

[@cadser0engco]

Great video. If you like I can send you some cutting fluid rather than what looks like wd40. ..? I am pretty local to you Bri

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Bri. That's a very kind offer but I wouldn't put you to such trouble. However, if you can recommend a good product, that would be much appreciated. All the best. Andrew

[@robertwebb9657]

Hi Andrew Loved your video. Have not needed to cut a thread up to now (used button dies etc) but it has irritated the life out of me that I did not know how to. Thanks to your excellent video which is low key, easy to watch and incredibly patient, that is no longer the case. I have one project to complete and it will be thread cutting time. Incidentally I am also a wood turner who still does a bit as you can see. timewithcharacter.org/ If you ever feel the need to make some more sawdust and are in Brisbane let me know and I will arrange access to a wood lathe for a while. Without videos like this, people like me would still be playing with mechano sets. My only criticism of the SC4 is the noise but, as you say it is a beast with power to burn. Thank you. Robert Brisbane Australia

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Robert - many thanks for the feedback. You have made some lovely items out of wood. Many thanks for the offer of some woodturning time, but I'm well out of practice now and it would probably scare the living daylights out of me anyway. I see your mill is similar to a Sieg SC3 or SC4. I recently purchased a Sieg SC3.5DZP, but all the paint started coming off the head - poor workmanship back at the factory. Sadly, it's had to go back to the supplier. So I'm looking around for an alternative - nothing too large mind. Many thanks for dropping by. Take care and all the best. Andrew

[@robertwebb9657]

@@learningturningmetal Hi Again Andrew Thanks for the prompt response. I am sorry to hear about the Mill problem. That would have been frustrating and disappointing. The logistics of returning a faulty mill is not something I would like to have to deal with. Yes my mill is a Seig X2 although it has a label from the local machinery supplier I bought it from. It has been reliable and perfect for my needs and gave me the confidence to buy the SC4 to replace my Grizzly (not the label on it course) which was under powered even after I replaced the original motor with a VSD controlled 3 phase motor. It does not have a powered cross slide either. The only change I considered to the X2 was to replace the lead screw on the table with a ball screw because I have installed a stepper motor with a limited CNC capability for the indexing I need to make clock gears (wheels) and the backlash can be a problem at times. All the best. Robert

[@Darren_Barclay]

Why did you give up the woodworking? Why not do both? Space, money or the wife…. ;)

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Darren A few reasons really. I got a lot of satisfaction from wood turning but whatever I made just ended up on a shelf or in a box. Working with metal opens up lots more opportunities. I can fix things around the house and help neighbours out. Longer term projects result in something of real interest and also great to play with. Machining metal to within a tenth of thou of an inch is really challenging too. So no spare time for wood turning any more. Cheers Andrew

[@Darren_Barclay]

@@learningturningmetal I can respect that. And I get what your meaning, I enjoy tinker and making things and I’ve always like the idea of a lathe I’ve just never had the funds to purchase one, but the mini one seems feasible, anyway good on you, I’ve subscribed and I’ll continue you watching. I’ve just started a channel, woodworking projects I’ve loads of ideas , but having a lathe would be cool and handy. All the best.

[@Darren_Barclay]

@@learningturningmetal what lathe would you recommend to someone like myself who’s never even touched one.

[@learningturningmetal]

@@Darren_Barclay now that is a difficult question! It depends on several factors including your budget, what you plan to machine, workshop space available, if you catch the machining bug. My first lathe was the Sieg SC3 from arceurotrade. I found it capable of machining accurately to within a thou of an inch. I produced a number of videos showing the mods I made. I made a carriage lock to aid with parting off, as it can be challenging on such a small lathe. I invested quite a lot on tooling, a 4 jaw chuck and a quick change toolpost. I later decided to purchase the larger SC4 and sold the SC3 which was an expensive change. In hindsight I would have been better buying the SC4 initially, but I didn't think I would catch the model engineering bug! I've added a dial gauge to the carriage and cross slide, which is a godsend. They say buy as big as you can and I tend to agree. Hope that helps. Andrew