#MT56

Making an Upshur Opposed Twin IC Engine.
In this video, part 2 of the series, I make the cylinders.
I hope some of you will follow along with my new engine build. Maybe some of you will have a go at making one too.
The drawings and build instructions are detailed in Model Engine Builder Magazine Issues 7 and 8. These can still be purchased on-line for a small fee:
www.modelengin...
If you can offer me any help or advice, please leave a comment.
I hope some of my videos help inspire others to venture into model engineering.
If you would like to keep informed of my new videos, please subscribe.
If you find my videos of value you could always help me continue making them by making a small donation at:
paypal.me/AndrewWhale
If you have any private questions/advice you can contact me via email at [e-mail]
Cheers!
Backing track credits......
Music: (intro) Water Lily by the 126ers - KZbin Audio Library
WARNING: Metal turning can be dangerous! I am not sure whether the methods I use are established ones, and I do not recommend them.
Please do not copy me without doing your own risk assessments!
You are responsible for your safety - not me!

[@MyLilMule]

Brilliant recovery, Andrew.

[@OL6162.]

Hi ANDREW 👍👍👍👍👍 The second approch for the other cylinder was the best one.... All the best. OLIVIER.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Olivier It was an interesting learning experience! Cheers Andrew

[@richardmeyer418]

Hello, Andrew. I've been a (silent) fan since the beginning, and the person who started out, and didn't have the "bottle" to take a deep cut on cast iron to get through the crust is light years behind you. It's amazing to see how you've advanced, and the fun you seem to be having. I'm quite envious, actually. 😀

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Richard I think we all have our trials and tribulations with cast iron and parting off any type of material. I find that doing projects forces your hand and you have to bite the bullet. I visited the Derwent Valley Light Railway workshops the other day and they had a small Boxford CNC lathe. Apparently that parts off at 3000 RPM. Scary! All the best. Andrew

[@richardmeyer418]

@@learningturningmetal Have a great Christmas, Andrew. I enjoy watching your videos and I like the fact you show it like Cromwell - "warts and all" if things go wrong.

[@Steviegtr52]

Good save Andrew. At least it did not explode like my flywheel did. Coming together nicely now. All the best for 2024. Steve

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Steve It certainly helps keep the brain active! How you manage to make things without drawings is well beyond me. All the best for 2024 to you too. Cheers Andrew

[@paulrayner4514]

well done with the fix, looking good. Merry christmas to you and the family, have a great time.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Paul. A Merry Christmas to you and your family too. All the best. Andrew

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Andrew, it’s good you saved the part, that would of ended up across the neighbours fence if that was me, have a great Christmas and thanks for all the awesome content throughout the year mate, cheers

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Matty - wishing you all the best for Christmas and the New Year. Take care! Andrew

[@theartfulbodger]

Andrew, alli will expand when heated far more than steel. Once the sleeve got stuck trying to press it in, simply putting the whole assembly in the oven, perhaps a little hotter than you had it, would have expanded the alli. enough for it to fall into place. Colin

[@mervynprice7009]

Really enjoyed your latest trial & tribulations with the new project. Nice to see you get it wrong, just like the rest of us. My only comment is about the width of your parting tool. I use narrow parting tools & I keep the revs down low. Also, if my cut is going to be deep I back out, move over a bit & widen the cut up. Then finish off the original cut.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Mervyn thanks for the advice. The other day I was invited to look around the Derwent Valley Light Railway and it's workshops. They had a small Boxford CNC lathe with a thin parting tool. They recon it parts off at 3000 RPM. Scary!

[@brianleduc2244]

As soon as you put the liner on top of your heated clyinder I know that your screwed!! The same way i screwed myshelf 50years ago ,,, then I regrouped to learn the heat expansion of medal and clearances needed to do " heat shrink fitting" sure makes life a lot easier keep up your learning experience!! Never to old to learn new stuff

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Brian. I had done a few calculations based on the expansion coefficient of aluminium and calculated that it should have expanded somewhere in the region of 2 to 3 thou. I think I went wrong by trying to heat the part in the oven. On my second attempt I used a gas torch and the sleeve just dropped into place. Shame I didn't take any footage. But now I know for next time. All the ebst. Andrew

[@stephenbrown1143]

Thanks Andrew, Happy Christmas.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Stephen. Happy Christmas to you too! Cheers Andrew

[@be007]

pressfits are always a gamble, merry cristmas andrew. cheers ben.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Ben. I had done a few calculations based on the expansion coefficient of aluminium and I think it should have expanded somewhere in the region of 2 to 3 thou. I think I went wrong by trying to heat the part in the oven. On my second attempt I used a gas torch and the sleeve just dropped into place. Shame I didn't take any footage. But now I know for next time. Merry Christmas! Andrew

[@Mister_G]

Brilliant, thank you very much. I know that feeling where everything should "just slip together" and then it doesn't. Speed is of the essence - once things start going wrong there's no going back. Pleased you managed to recover it though. Very best wishes to you and your family for Christmas and the New Year, and looking forward to the next instalment.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks mate and a Merry Christmas to you and your family too. All the best. Andrew

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Craig! All the best. Andrew

[@PALM311]

Bit of advice if you don’t mind. The next time you have to press a sleeve into a cylinder cool down the sleeve, and warm up the cylinder. I actually put my cylinders in the freezer.15 sleeved engines and I never had a problem doing it this way. But more importantly, make sure there is no taper in your cylinder. It could be perfect at the top and 0.002 smaller at the bottom. And the same with the sleeve, make sure the sleeve is the same diameter OD all the way the length. However you recovered it you’re doing a beautiful job and I can’t wait for the next video! MERRY CHRISTMAS!

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks for the tips and a MERRY CHRISTMAS to you too! Cheers Andrew

[@pvtimberfaller]

I wish I was nearby. Some of the equipment I worked on in the past had aluminum slingers and the only way to get them on/off the shaft was to heat them with a torch and move them by hand until they seized and reheat them. I suspect aluminum anti seize might have helped. One think you messed up on. Any time you press or heat a sleeve or bushing ALWAYS ream or in this case lap AFTERWARDS because it will crush the bore. I would recommend you repeat the honing process. Cheers.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks for the advice Ross. I will revisit lapping at some stage. Cheers Andrew

[@richardboucher6904]

Hi Andrew Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours. Sorry to see how you have to bundle up to work in your shop, here in New England we have been enjoying a very warm start to winter and I am keeping quite comfortable in the shop between the domestic heat and the wood stove. Big trick is to let the furnace keep the room at 60 deg F so the machines don't act like a big heat sink when I fire up the wood stove in the morning. When I have to press or heat shrink fits I usually turn/bore a short distance of slip fit area on parts to help align the pieces before pressing. One other trick with shrink fits is to heat only one area on a side with a touch. This gives the required expansion using a lot less heat. No matter how you work it it is a job that keeps you holding your breath till it is finished. Dick B USA

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dick. I hope you and your family are keeping well. Fingers crossed Spring won't be too far away. I had done a few calculations based on the expansion coefficient of aluminium and I think it should have expanded somewhere in the region of 2 to 3 thou. I think I went wrong by trying to heat the part in the oven. On my second attempt I used a gas torch and the sleeve did drop into place on its own. Shame I didn't take any footage. But now I know for next time. Happy Christmas to you and your family. All the best. Andrew

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Looking good Andrew. Wishing you and yours a safe and wonderful holiday season Cheers

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Rick. I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas too. All the best. Andrew

[@musicmaneman38]

Merry Christmas to you Andrew.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks mate! A Merry Christmas to you too! Cheers Andrew

[@georgeclements2742]

Best wishes for 2024 Andrew. I'm a bit surprised that you lapped the cylinders before assembly as the silver soldering is likely to have caused some distortion.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi George. Best wishes to you too. Fortunately I later realised that the solder (as recommended by Upshur) was only 4% silver. The melting point being in the region of 220 degrees C. As such I hope all will be fine. 🤞🤞🤞. The solder was really easy to work too. All the best. Andrew

[@richb419]

Hi Andrew, I think your original plan was a good one, I feel that the bore may have been too small to the size of the sleeve and or not enough heating of the aluminum, if every thing is right you should not need a press the sleeve should just drop into place I don't know the calculation but have done this and in my case the aluminum needs to be smoking hot I think +600F and the cold clearance in my case was about +.002-3 inches per inch of the inside part Rich

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Rich. I had done a few calculations based on the expansion coefficient of aluminium and I agree that it should have expanded somewhere in the region of 2 to 3 thou. I think I went wrong by trying to heat the part in the oven. On my second attempt I used a gas torch and the sleeve did drop into place as you describe. Shame I didn't take any footage. But now I know for next time. All the best. Andrew

[@grahampratley3426]

Hello Andrew, Thanks for sharing. A real Christmas treat getting an update on the Upshur. I'm not sure if your lathe has a powered cross feed, but I use that now for all my parting off. It took me a longtime to pluck up the courage, but I haven't looked back since. Merry Christmas and a Happy new year.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Graham. Yes my lathe has a powered cross feed but I just can't pluck up enough courage to use it when parting off. The other day I was invited to look around the Derwent Valley Light Railway and it's workshops. They had a small Boxford CNC lathe with a thin parting tool. They recon it parts off at 3000 RPM. Scary! A Merry Christmas to you too! All the best. Andrew

[@mrc1539]

👍 ! Nice recovery, sometimes how to fix your mistakes is as important as the project itself . Just remember ,he who has made no mistakes has never done anything 😉 !

[@learningturningmetal]

Ha ha thanks mate!

[@nobbysworkshop]

Great video Andrew. Pleased you were able to recover the cylinders and not have to remake them. Outstanding work as usual. Best wishes to you and your family for Christmas and the New Year. Cheers Nobby

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Nobby. A Merry Christmas to you and yoiur family too! Cheers Andrew

[@tsheritageengineering]

Well done, still think I'm going for the threaded option.

[@learningturningmetal]

Ha ha Tony - and I thought that this might have convinced you. In hindsignt I don't think Stay-Bright solder is silver solder. I think the melting point is around 220 degrees C. It's great at gap filling and really easy to apply. As it is recommended in the drawings, fingers crossed it will be okay. All the best. Andrew

[@tsheritageengineering]

@@learningturningmetal I think the solder you used is what I know as Comsol, high melting point soft solder, should be ok unless you have a high compression ratio!!

[@daverichardson5861]

Great vlog Andrew. Nice piece of work with recovery built in. If its a petrol engine, can you use a Viton seal as a piston ring? Just wondering. Merry Christmas to you and yours and all the best for 2024.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dave. My Jerry Howell FarmBoy hit n miss engine uses a Viton o-ring as per the drawings. It's still got great compression. As this little engine will be used infrequently I think a Viton o-ring would work well. A Merry Christmas to you and your family too. Cheers Andrew

[@johnvaluk1401]

Thank you for the video Andre and Merry Christmas to you and yours Another KZbinr Blondie hacks when she solders she uses a meter rod with a 90* bend in the end to a rounded point and manipulates the solder with that. Just a thought. Cheers

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi John - thanks for the tip. In hindsignt I don't think Stay-Bright solder is silver solder. I think the melting point is around 220 degrees C. It's great at gap filling and really easy to apply. As it is recommended in the drawings, fingers crossed it will be okay. All the best. Andrew

[@daveticehurst4191]

Bit of advice for next time. You did not heat the aluminium up enought. With the 1 thou interference fit the steel part should have just dropped in under its own weight, no press needed. You said silver solder, but that was not true silver solder, proper solder would need 700 odd degrees, dull red. You were also losing a lot of heat doing it out in the open, the part gee clamped to another steel bar as well, all pulling heat out of the part. Need a hearth of fire bricks with a back wall to reflect back the heat. Regards from Australia.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dave You are correct as always! I had done some calculations based the expansion coefficient of aluminium and I recon it should have expanded by between 2 and 3 thou. I don't think the oven got it up to the correct temperature. On my second attempt using the gas torch, the sleeve just dropped into place. After some investigation I don't believe that Stay-Bright solder is a silver solder. I think the melting point is around 220 degrees C. It's great at gap filling and really easy to apply. As it is recommended in the drawings, fingers crossed it will be okay. All the best. Andrew

[@CantKillMe]

Nice job there 🎉

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks mate!