Mustang frame rails, aprons and core support. Brooklyn Pony part 12

This video covers the installation of the frame rails, one piece aprons, core support and lower torque box halves.
My welder: amzn.to/2EWeQD5
Welding gloves: amzn.to/2F3W1h8
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@rockthemulletsp]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding my 68 right now, and I just want to give you all the credit in the world for putting this content out there. I keep coming back to review your videos.. between this, Jade, and light blue, and they've helped immeasurably in my own process. Couldn't thank you enough, keep it up

[@chevroletbelair1]

at 19:30 i have exact tesame problem on full apron assembly from dynacorn . im gonna do tesame as you and cut it in the corner .thanks for the vid

[@larryneuert8928]

Joe your a restoration Master.And I am learning a lot. thanks.

[@rickilynnwolfe8357]

Keep sharing your knowledge brother. THANKS

[@aojohn2]

So many crazy little details. Me and my dad should have mocked up our fenders before all the cowl and other metal repair was done because they don't fit too well now lol

[@exxplosive]

Great video, your attention to detail is amazing and so helpful for others trying to restore their cars! Can't wait for next episode!

[@themountainraven]

Your videos will definitely help my 66 build. Thank you for the time to do these.

[@10223220]

It just blows my mind how great of a job your doing can't wait to see the next video as always a big 👍

[@thomasbraden2450]

Subscribed and Liked. You have been doing great on these series and hope that you continue with them. Thank you for your time and effort on these projects and for posting them.

[@mnwoodshop3877]

I have followed this project from the start I'm very impressed with the knowledge that you have in terms what to do and not to do for proper fitmit.Looks great so far.

[@maxpayne8]

Thank you Barry. Great work.

[@joecox1679]

Awesome job! Keep up the good work.

[@TheGeonam]

Measurement is 59 1/8 inch on both sides. If you measure from the front of each frame rail after the measurement of 59 1/8 inch. Measure back from front of frame rail 4 inches back on each frame rail. Then measure 6 inches across the front of each frame rail. ( have to move the 2x4 to the front of the frame rails ). The two measurements of 4 inches back and 6 inches across. You then measure at an angle from the two points 4 inches to 6 inches you should get 10 inches which proves a square.

[@stephenosburn901]

Love the videos, Keep up the good works. Always doing it the right way.

[@wadechandler5153]

Impressive work as usual. Thank you for putting this information out here for the rest of us.

[@walther9161]

Thanks for the info and great work and videos!!

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing. Nice work.

[@MyChevelleSS396]

G'Day from Australia, I think your videos are great and you explain very well. I can use the info as I build my Chevelle as it gives many helpful tips even if your not building a Mustang. Looking forward to the rest of this series. Thanks, Mick.

[@johneverson354]

I can't get enough ! The best informative videos that I've seen.

[@Flyingmikey62]

Nice work, you rock!

[@cecil6711]

Very informative video. Thank you for this entire series. Awesome workmanship sir.

[@whataboutbob9326]

looks amazing, thanks for all you knowledge and teaching skills :)

[@DoubleRRestorations]

Some great tips Barry. The Pony is really taking shape!

[@chunster682]

Speechless... Awesome as always!!!

[@Ki777UMiNATii]

You're an absolute wizard it's insane how well you've massaged everything into better than factory fitment tolerances. Thanks for the info its turning out amazingly well. Still watching I'm sure the work is complete but it blows my mind nonetheless. 👍

[@stangresto9748]

Great instructional video. Keep up the great videos they are very helpful. I have a 1965 coup that I'm trying to restore and your videos are a great help.

[@charleswillsonpeale5739]

Impressive Jo, it's actually staring to look like a Mustang again. Thanks for uploading this update. :-)

[@stangresto9748]

Great instructional video. Keep up the great videos they are very helpful. I have a 1965 coup that I'm trying to restore and your videos are a great help. Thanks

[@btoad303]

I've learned a lot from watching your videos, especially how you fixing the little discrepancies in parts received. I am doing a restoration myself and have parts that are universal in design to fit trucks and blazers. I am doing a 1979 blazer frame off restoration.

[@SprayWayCustoms]

You making great progress

[@davediyguy2198]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, I'm about to tackle this same project on my 68 mustang. It's a little intimidating but I'll give it hell.

[@dominiquehumblot2589]

Ok I'ready for part 13... I spent last night to see again part 1 to 12... 5 hours... it was really great... I keep dissassembly for another night...

[@nighthawktrailers1603]

Thanks

[@ampsplus]

I am going to do the same thing with the front end on my 67 this winter. I hope it goes as well as yours did.

[@joegarage6132]

I just bought a 65 and 66, the 66 needs a front end from a wreck. This is the best video on what to look forward to on the front end, Thank you for the video, It helps me. I checked parts and looks like most things are on back order... welcome to 2021. I plan on doing a fastback conversion on this shell also (also out of stock). I'm not in a hurry, but you helped me out with this video, thanks again, I plan on watching some of your other videos, you have a lot of work , mine is not quite as rusty...

[@InvincibleExtremes]

you're definitely getting after it!

[@williambarnhartblacksmith414]

That was a lot of work done and shown in a single video. I know I'm late, but nice job! I just ordered one of my complete frame rails and a new core support. My 66 coupe hit something right its front passenger side corner, then left for 40 years under a fitted cover. Naturally in PA the parts that were damaged rusted. I was trying to block the car up to work under and on it and the frame rail crinkled a bit. Not good! P.S. I also feel like the front right is low on mine because I look at things the same dang way. Lol

[@TxStang]

you are way more accurate than the +/- 1/8" the factory used when they were made !!!! It is coming along great !

[@xmodriver]

x2

[@tectalabyss]

Hi Jo Daddy. That was outstanding has always ! You do better work by yourself than,all the so called pros with all their help ! In my humble opinion.. Much respect and thank you. All my best. Bobby

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Thanks Bobby.

[@mattfarahsmillionmilelexus]

Great work, you really should build yourself a simple tram gauge.

[@66blacksunshine]

Thank you for spending your time to make this vid. VERY well explained and detailed keep up the great work and thank you for not spending a half-hour showinv your face talking to the camera. LOL look at me look at me. Thanks again. Thumb up and sub.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Yeah, I save those videos for my Vlogs...

[@glennwilliams15]

Man your good

[@leonardgilbreath9004]

Jo it's coming together great where do you or when do you put seem seller in I'm putting the lower door skin on and needs to be sealed but your work on this is very helpful.

[@estpst]

Have you seen the metalshaper channel?, very amazing what this guy does rebuilding Willy's Jeeps.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I have not. I'll check it out.

[@michaelhughes7513]

MAN... I wish I had this video like 5 years ago. I had the same issue with a replacement core support. I thought I was going crazy. Surely they could not have made the core support 1/4" too short... Thanks for giving the dimensions, even though they may be a little off car to car, they're very useful I think. I didn't have a good car to measure off of. My car had a bunch of work by a hack that I was undoing, so I couldn't trust any of the original measurements. Having a set here, and even knowing what is supposed to be straight and what is not supposed to be straight is very helpful. Question: I'm hanging / adjusting my front fenders right now. The gap to the rocker panel is pretty tight, meaning that the bolt to the rocker is having to pull the bottom part of the fender forward. a new Dynacorn fender, out of the box, wants to sit about 3/8" back. I can pretty easily move it into position with my hands with the top bolt in place to set the axial position at the top. If I put the bolt in the bottom, and then pull the top back, obviously that works too. But there is some effort there, and I was wondering if that is a symptom that something else is off, or if that's normal. I am going to need at least 1/2" of shims from rocker to the fender, like you had. Good idea to figure out the stack, and make a more permanent spacer.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Fenders are tricky. I just did a video in this series addressing some of the issues. Part 28. Manipulating the front mount will change the rear. As in the axis changes. I have another video showing this. I think this is it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qorNqImnrLGdhK8

[@realtaur]

Great Video!! Someone should sue these companies making these crummy parts! I just tried 3M red ceramic Roloc 2 inch wheels and they cut much better and last longer then the Green Corps discs especially the 36 Grit ones!

[@stevea542]

Awesome work, thank you for taking the time to share them. I'm at stopping point with my Dynacorn full floor pan for my 65 convertible. I have it installed the car is level front to back side to side, but the frame extensions are not parallel to the rockers. When I set the frame rails in place and level them up there is a 1/4" gap at the end of the floor extension. Do I need to cut some relief "slots" in the pan and try to jack the extensions up to level? Thank you for your time and expertise.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

When you say frame extensions, do you mean frame rails? I would look at how they fit relative to the original ones. If you don't have measurements, or a jig, you will likely have to clamp everything in place and hang the fenders. That will help find the proper angle. The "reveal" at the door and fender will show you if it's square. Hope that helps.

[@troyarave1566]

Looking good! Wouldn’t happen to have a measurement somewhere from the side of car to the apron where they weld to the firewall handy by chance? Or where you put those lines on the cowl to line up the rear of the apron. Working on one myself and the previous owner took the aprons out before I got the car. If you do that would be awesome. Thanks and keep up the good work. Love the content. Don’t change a thing.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Send me an email. [e-mail]

[@Lee-nz4ue]

Great work Berry. Trying to contact you but the email isn't working.

[@walther9161]

Awesome awesome... couple questions, what wire gage and plug weld hole size are you using? Thanks again for great videos!!!

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Wire size is .023. Holes vary. With thicker metal, I make the hole bigger. Sheet metal is usually about 5/16"

[@walther9161]

Very nice. Do you use factory datum lines to align and square-up the rails and uni-body?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I used reference measurements from the original car, another convertible, and the 66 coupe.

[@maverick50616]

The 3 thumbs down are from people jealous of your skills.

[@BrianS2464]

Looks like musclecar gt in Taiwan makes panels for dynacorn and a bunch of other companies.

[@DrumSouls1]

Hey man I love What Your Doing to This Brooklyn PonyI have One Question, I`m not a Welder How can I do what your doing You shown me how to put a floor in I had a Friend weld for meI`m trying to weld and to blend what do I use to blend

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I may be coming up with a video to show that stuff.

[@blueovalfan8758]

Great video-as usual...! I was curious what size holes you are you drilling in the floor support rails and torque box that will be plugged with the mig welding. Also, would like to know your welder settings and wire size for the thicker metal at these locations. Hope to start my ‘66 mustang project and you’ve been a wealth of info-thanks in advance!

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I typically drill a 5/16" hole for lighter sheet metal, and 3/8" for heavier stuff. Sheet metal, I typically use .025" wire and my settings are "2" for heat (out of 5) and 2 for speed. For heavier welds, I use .030" wire and up the heat a little.

[@blueovalfan8758]

@@JoDaddysGarage specifically, what would you consider the heavier stuff on the dynacorn parts list for this build...? I ask only because I’m about to purchase the dynacorn full floor plan with integrated rear frame rails and front floor support. I also need the front frame rails and will be adding the torque boxes too. There just not much worth salvaging. Seems my journey will follow in your footsteps and looking to glean the particulars from you. This will be a ‘66 coupe to fastback conversion.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

@@blueovalfan8758 The torque boxes in particular. You can use either wire, but for the pans, aprons, etc. lighter wire is easier.

[@punkinsgarageandpaint8299]

Subscribe should give you free parts so you can make these videos. Keep up the great work.

[@davebrittain9216]

Looking great! I saw that someone gave it a thumbs down. Well that is one way to find out who the idiots are!

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Yeah... makes you wonder.

[@davebrittain9216]

They are just trolling.

[@tomb4254]

I watched your videos for years, Im replacing the front frame rails on my 65 mustang fastback and I hope you can steer me in the right direction, The car is level to the rocker panels but when I put the front frame rail on jacks and level the rails, push them against the floor where its spot welded together the welding flanges are about 1/2 inch away from the floor at the top, The firewall is new and welded in at the same spot welds I drilled out. The welding flanges look like there at the same angle as my old ones. any ideas, measurements would be nice if you still have them.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Hmm... The rails should not be level to the rocker panels. They actually angle down slightly as I demonstrated in this video. You may nee to send me some pics. [e-mail]

[@davediyguy2198]

Barry, do you have any videos that address the inner front floor supports?

[@DesertRatFabrication]

Hey Jo Daddy, do the frame rails get most of there support from the floor supports , and how much do the aprons support the frame rails

[@JoDaddysGarage]

The floor supports and firewall give the most support in my opinion. The aprons give some support, but primarily finish out the engine bay. All are important for the structure to be strong though.

[@passion9240]

Hello Jo. always very impressive. Thanks a lot of for all details you show us. I must admit i follow closely your restoration because it contents a lot of information which may avoid to do some mistakes. I understand you are using like main supplier DYNACORN sheet metal. i am very impressive about quarter panel quality. Could you say what is the reference from dynacorn ( ref 3647 LH 3646 RH) because i will go to order and i want to be sure it is the same quality? Thank you for your reply. (I am writting from France) thank a lot.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Hello. Thanks for being a fan. I have not used those quarter panels specifically, but from the pictures, they look to be of good quality. I did notice that they do not include the filler panel at the rear where the extension would mount. This is the first time I've seen these.

[@passion9240]

Hello Joe. thank you so much for your reply. Have a nice day

[@chevroletbelair1]

i bought a 66 coupe and it was front ended and repaired a litlle bit by the previous owner. do you have messurements that you use to build these cars ? There is 1 framerail thats out of height ( so lower or higher than the other frame rail) thanks for youre vids

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I don’t have any measurements to share. Sorry.

[@rogsmith66]

What brand of weld through primer do you use? Thank you very much for the information

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I typically use 3M brand.

[@joebob344]

I know this video is a few years old now but in your opinon, who makes the best and thickest metal core support nowadays? Without the crossmember attached. NPD sells a newer thicker one but comes with crossmember. The ones I find without the crossmember only seem to come in thinner metal. Like.8mm

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Good question. I have installed a dynacorn, but I think it had the crossmember as well. It seemed thicker. I don't know if they sell it without the crossmember.

[@jimenezmontasfamily8008]

So when you replace the aprons what did you do about the vin? Restamp?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

That could be an option.

[@glennwilliams15]

I would like to have half your skill

[@treymarrs6860]

Did u consider using a cs from a 67 so can use larger radiator

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I did not. However, I did enlarge the opening in a later video.

[@maksimgeyman4727]

Barry how do you Mig weld under the car. The gravity makes the weld go down. I'm afraid to weld upside down as all the arc spatter goes on me. Any suggestions Barry

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Practice is all I can say. I sometimes have the same issue, but I make sure I burn it in good, and stay out from directly underneath the weld.

[@maksimgeyman4727]

I just got a Miller spot welder and will try that out on some panels that are easy to spot weld. I also do a lot of Mig welding on the 66 Mustang coupe, but I'm wondering in the future about 40-50 years from now when a some Mustanger DIY person will need to replace a panel that I Mig welded. It will be hard for them to find those Mig welds as Ford Factory spot welds are easy to find mostly. I remember I had to redo a panel that I Mig welded, and it was almost impossible to find Mig welds ones I grind them flush. Took 3x longer to separate the panels and there were more Mig spot weld cut holes, and I used a flat panel separation tool to go between the panels to find the Mig welds. This was only about 20-25 spot welds but wasn't easy.

[@timothypinson976]

What kind of body dolly are you using, and where did you get it?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Summit racing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJrJk2mVrZWFe7s

[@dominiquehumblot2589]

There are nearly 5 hours of videos just for the rebuilt and 1hour 20 minutes for the dissassembly of the donor car... I plan on reseeing all these videos in one time like I did with the first 6 Star Wars episod a while back...

[@JoDaddysGarage]

LOL! Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

[@treymarrs6860]

I am doing same project on same car what's best front end mustang 2, or tci

[@JoDaddysGarage]

They are pretty much the same setup. Just do a comparison and choose the one you like.

[@redneckgearheadgarage495]

I have to say I have never heard the term "joggle" before.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Sheet metal term. Pretty common, but not referenced very often. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bending_(metalworking)

[@davidcrouch4489]

At 43:52, what is the unit you refer to when you say 90,000 stick (?). Many thanks!

[@JoDaddysGarage]

It was a measurement. .090" or 90 thousandths.

[@davidcrouch4489]

@@JoDaddysGarage Awesome, thanks so much!!

[@joewilder]

That's a lot of time and work. How can that be affordable?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

This is a side thing for me, so I won't charge what a shop charges.

[@agriaytar2251]

At least your not Welding in flip flops! 😎

[@jackw3990]

When is the next video coming out

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Soon. Working on it now.

[@dominiquehumblot2589]

It seems that the bracket between the rear fender apron and the cowl on both sides are missing, no?... lol...

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Correct. I have not cleaned them up yet. They will be installed though.

[@donaldhenessee9677]

Awesome videos I'm currently doing my 65 I've had since 1976. Torque boxes are installed the drivers side torque box has a hole in the front and both have a square opening on the back up near the floorboard are these left open or welded shut. Thanks

[@JoDaddysGarage]

That hole on the driver's side is for the rigid fuel line.

[@Jamesz_hunt]

I thought this was Tom hanks holy shit

[@carolinamanjr1385]

starting to look like a car

[@kylevantassel7259]

Do you really want to pass this knowledge on to other poor unsuspecting folks ? :)

[@agriaytar2251]

At least your not Welding in flip flops! 😎